Way to go. Like the old timers used to say, If you once fail, try try again. Never give up my friend some of the greatest inventions, tools, etc., were born out of necessity and a string earlier failures. A testament to why we should keep trying and looking for ways to improve. When I made mine I cut it like your first one but used a die grinder with a series of drums to cut the bevel on the top side. Then polished it with a ceramic stone that closely matched the bevel. This design you made very much resembles a old fashioned spoon bit for a brace. I’ll bet it works great for cutting holes by hand. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. I enjoy watching and the creative thinking it inspires. Have a great day my friend. And again, well done. You should re-bevel your first one to and have two very useful tools. Just a suggestion. Maybe make a follow up video if you make handles or continue to improve your design. Thanks for sharing.
Most dinner spoons are not made of Damascus, or any other type of blade steel. You can put a sharp edge on just about anything, but that doesn't mean that it will cut.
Thanks a ton for putting these two videos online. It's great to see someone else tinkering like I do sometimes, but for it not to only be shared when everything works perfectly!
Now, for all the many, many of videos about how to do 'stuff', with your 'Morgan Freeman' delivery I think it's the best I have heard, calming and honest.
You can buy spoons at thrift shops for almost no cost, try a plain carbon steel spoon, it can be easily hardened and tempered and will hold an edge better and be sharper when honed with compound on a leather or wood strop. regular spoons are magnetic, stainless usually isn't.
The stone your putting on your wheel grinds off and forms a slurry, or a grinding paste! So depending on which side of the stone you use, changes the grit of your wheel.
Hi Ron, I came across your channel by chance and glad I did, you have a great voice and I like your work, even if it’s not successful. Keep up the great work and I’ll see hopefully more interesting work from you, certainly made me think about making some carving knives 🔪, I have a few mechanical donkeys saw hacksaw blades, more substantial and bigger in all dimensions than the normal hacksaw blade. Thanks for putting a spark in my mind....
Looks good Ron. I have a tool very much like that except where there is the belly of the spoon, I have hollow ground it. This gives you two tools. A slick with a drastic curve to the front so it can smooth the outside of a hemisphere or plane with no risk of digging in anywhere, and a fairly shallow gouge. What I detect in the video is that there is still a significant burr on the edge of your tool. This is bound to be a problem with the relative softness of the stainless. But a culprit is also using the jig on the strop side of the hone. To peel off that burr you need to raise your tool a little higher than the incedence you have it at. And just flip it back and forth until you pull off that burr. With just that you’ll get (at least) an initial cut. That stainless will hold on to its burr pretty stubbornly. That tool (in proper tool steel) I think you would find quite handy.
ive been making native American flutes and didgeridoos out of sumac. this may be a nice tool for digging out the soft center to make air way. ive already been using a spoon for some of it and have been thinking it would be so much easier if the spoon was sharpened.
I started collecting my tools almost 50 years ago. Most of the green stuff is recent though. One of those red toolboxes goes back to the 60's. Altogether it cost less than a new car, and unlike a car, never depreciates. It will be just as good in 20 years as it is now --- but will I:)
Ron Calverley Hi Ron, I very much appreciate your kind reply and know what you mean when you say"But will I?" Me and my father both bought and intermingled our tools, mostly hand tools with a few special ones that were portable powered, but Both dad and I have been extremely ill and I have been an invalid for the past 22 years. Dad was still working in the shed 15 years after I became an invalid with epilepsy. during this time others in my family have slowly taken tools without even asking, akin to theft really though they would no doubt not see it like that. Those nearest and dearest can be buggers when one is not well enough to even notice due to illness that two or three tools were disappearing every once in a while. take care and I would still like to know when or if you find that magic angle for your edge!
Been thinking of making a spoon carving knife for gouging out the scoop part....I don't have the tool you have here. I like what you did with both spoons...might just need to be thinner to be able to cut? I saw a grinding ball for a drill at hardware store today...might try with dremmel or rounded file will take a while but its satisfying when a few attempta comes out with a usable tool. I think both could work might just need to be sharper or add a handle....the hardware store even had handles to add to the files...i didt know they existed..but could work as a handle on your spoons. While out walkin I get my ideas and funny to see this video after thinking about spoon carving and how to make a tool. maybe sharpening the long side...length of the spoon scoop so it can be used sort of like a paring knife only curved. I have a victornox curved paring knife good for food carving.like melons or pumpkins...hoping to make somethin similar but bigger and hold up to cutting wood . Spoon tool for carvin spoons. Love it great video. Good to see other people experimenting with making their own tools for carving
Ron Again, thumb UP for the effort, however you have a totally different "spoon" now, the edge is different too. If you compare the two spoons to a Propeller plane (straight wing) to a fighter Jet plane with sweep back wings. You changed the geometry of the edge that's why it's cutting now (not for long though, wrong material). I personally wouldn't continue with this unless you change the steel on it with a hardness of 57-62 on RC level. Now, if you want to "forge" a chisel, there are plenty of videos for that... Best.
Cool, that was the better idea. Maybe use a larger and heavier piece of wood for a larger tool , and with a better handle to use presser on it. I don´t know but I like to experiment to with things. lol
You were on the right track with the first spoon. It needs a much steeper bevel and to be honed further. There are a ton of videos detailing how to sharpen a gouge. With that edge on any chisel the result would be equally disappointing. Well I think the problem would lie is in the tang bending
My Jr. High shop teacher "Stumpy" Gustafsen would have smacked me on the back of the head for pushing a spoon gouge directly at my hand like that. He got his nickname because he became a master cabinet maker in a totally non powered shop, and when they brought in power tools he ended up with only two complete fingers. The rest were either gone or missing one joint. He got out of the shops and became a teacher. A real safety fanatic.
Hi Lawrence, Thank you for this interesting comment. Here's hoping that others read it too. And yes, when editing that video years ago, I recall thinking just how dumb that was 😊
hey ron.... do you have a way to harden the "blade" steel from a spoon is extremly soft... so you would need to do a hardening and then a tempering... both can be done with pine charcoal in a clay pit with a blower on it... heat the spoon to orange and dip in warm canola oil... this will harden the blade (should make a ring like an anvil) then place the spoon in the oven on 200*c for 6 hours... then dip in oil again.. and final sharpen it and strap it with a straight razor belt...
Of youre unhappy with the cutting angle of your tool, just change it. For a lower angle, lengthen the beveled area. My 35m cut 7 straight gouge has a bevel of 21-22degrees and the bevel length of 8mm.
Just looking at a regular gouge, I think the answer to this burning question of which side to put the bevel, inside or backside, is 'Yes'. :) What I would do (and actually just might, if I can snag the necessary raw materials when the wife's not looking) is cut it in half as in Attempt #1, but then find a piece of pipe or tubing with a matching diameter, wrap a few different grits of oiled sandpaper over that, and cut a 10 degree bevel on the inside (depending on how well it holds an edge, may have to go steeper). (EDIT: OR just clamp the oiled paper over the wife's sturdy broom handle -- yeah, that'd do it!) Then fix each grit to the workbench top (I'd be afraid of burning and softening it on a wheel), and cut another 10 degree bevel on the backside of the spoon. I think I would then knock down the heel of that second bevel a bit, the angle between the bevel and the back of the spoon, to round out the bottom of that 10 degrees and allow room for angling the gouge differently while carving. Then perhaps hammer out the handle to an appropriate angle, sandwich it between 2 hickory scales, riveted and carved, hone the edge (the wife's chef knife honing stick should come in handy for the honing, plus its own handle would be just about perfect for the new gouge), and holding some oiled leather curved in my hand, strop off the wire edge (the top of her new leather purse should have just about the right curve). So what if her new stainless flatware set and leather purse (broom handle, honing stick, etc...) are ruined? A hand-carved wooden spoon should more than compensate. Right?
This sharpening thing has become a self standing art. Your spoon looks like many gouges that have the bevel on the other side like your first attempt. Flat chisels cut either way even though they have a single edge. Seems youi need to hone off the burr and/or try a schew angle or a roughing gouge angle. In the end it should sharpen as any other tool just unlikely to hold an edge as long as a HSS and of course a carbide. The weak link at any sharpness will be the spoon handle because it is likely to bend under a load. May want to buy a soup or larger spoon at a thrift store that has a more robust handle and give it a try. Old metal hack saw blades (power type) have been used for years a s tobacco cutting knives. Of course those are hard tempered blades and actually brittle but have very durable edges.
Experience is a good teacher, & experience offers some hard lessons. I wonder why you changed shapes on the 2nd spoon; it would be interesting to see how a DIY gouge shaped like the 1st spoon would perform with a different taper. Your shaping & sharpening equipment looks very nice & very expensive! Wouldn't a set of high quality gouges cost much less? But sometimes we simply want to experiment! Thanks.
I appreciate your prompt & courteous response. I plan to watch more of your videos. Thanks for your investment of time & energy to share with your viewers! May God bless you.@@roncalverley
You had the wrong 'DEGREE' on the cutting edge in the first video, I make my own carving knives and adze for Northwest Wood Carving Style, the pitch or "degree" should be no more than 27 Deg off 90. You can research Kestral Tools or Preferred Edge and I believe they have shop prints you could go off of. Cool video, thanks for sharing.
good idea "99"just add a strong handle of hardwood + a vice + a box of band aids .............just in case and we're in business ......carving art :):)
One rough method of nspecting a blade for sharpness is to hold the edge up to a point light source (ie: NOT a fluorescent light) and gently move the edge to try to see if it reflects light. If it does, your tool is not sharp. Every blade will have a minimal angle at which it will bite into what you're carving. Trying to cut at too shallow an angle will result in the blade skipping off rather than cutting.
+Ron Calverley if you cut it tho the same as before in half or actually 1/3 in and also add a handle im sure you would get still much better really just keep in mind that bevel again
You used the jig to get a consistent bevel however i don't think that's what you want. If you cut the spoon first like your first attempt, and then freehand it on the tormek or grinder i think this will work and be a usable tool. It's hard to describe, perhaps i'll try on my t4 and let you know how it goes.
I know im a few years late but im thinking while you are grinding the spoon to avoid that noise have it grinding out the spoon have the grinder spinning out of the spoons curve and it will help sharpen without micro backchips
Np I have no skills Lol I just thought maybe the lip is microcatching making the chalkboard nail noise. Instead it will be taking away the metal instead of pushing it off.. I think but idk I play with fishtanks all day never metal but I like watching. I truly think your amazing
Well Ron, this was very interesting to watch! I had to laugh a little. You're learning so much about metals and bevels. You're not that far afield from what goes on in "less-developed" countries. Mild steels, including low-grade stainless, are used for all types of tools. They sharpen up reasonably well, but don't hold their edge as long. They'll never be as sharp because the steel crystals aren't as refined, but you can get them sharper than that! Your trick with the Tormek doesn't seem to be getting you a well defined edge. I would grind that bevel inside the the spoon, much shallower and thus deeper, maybe with a Dremel? Then finish it with wet/dry paper, or some abrasive pastes on a roll of paper or leather. I think that your original design, cutting half the spoon off, makes a tool that's much easier to sharpen and would work better. Hardening and tempering will be possible if the steel has a high enough carbon content; if you're using a better sharpening method and it still won't cut, I'd turn to refining the crystal structure with heat treatment. Nic Westermann makes beautiful carving tools that look just like your half-spoon. Good luck!
Thanks Aaron! I'm not a metallurgist, that's for sure. You make me want to dig out the half-spoon. Still have it somewhere. Surprisingly, I don't have a Dremel Tool but I do have a very small air powered grinder that does the same job (noisy thing) Re: "what goes on in "less-developed" countries" --- sometimes I think I was born 200 years too late LOL. :)
at $400/per replacement water stone on the tormek's, I would of put a rough edge on the spoon with an angle grinder first, then used the tormek to put the actual blade on it. nice video though ,I like the idea
3:15 and that’s how I got 5 stitches on one side and 2 on the other of my finger using a chisel I just sharpened. (Hint, the corner of the chisel went all the way through)
Yes! I have noticed that when I'm videoing a project, I tend to do more stupid things than I normally do. I'll talk about safety, but I don't always practice it. Shame on me! Sometimes when I'm editing my video, I say to myself in disbelief "I did that!!!" I think it may be because my concentration is half on my work, and the other half on my camera. I was 15 when I got my first power tool. I'm almost 70 now, and I look at my hands and I’m surprised that all my fingers are still there lol. Well, maybe I shouldn't laugh. Perhaps I've got a "Guardian Angel" or something. Anyway, thanks for noticing the safety issue, and thanks for the compliment on the project :)
the bevel on your first spoon was way too steep but on the right side, plus you want to sharpen and heat treat the spoon to maintain the edge, but the steel is probably too soft.
A few things:That stainless can't hold an edge. The bevel should be on the outside. (in cannel bevel gouges are mainly used for coping) ... Your left hand was directly in front of the sharpened edge when you were pushing on the spoon. One slip and you're a candidate for stitches.
I am no expert, but I feel there is something wrong may be the gouge is too wide hence not so effective? How about making the gouge out of the spoon handle, like a fish tail gouge ? its a more flat than curve but may work
Yes, that plus the fact that it does not have a proper handle strong enough to apply pressure into the wood. Also now that I think back, it likely would have done better in a very soft wood. That wood you see, as I recall, was fairly hard. Also I think that I should have done a better job sharpening. I stopped too soon.
Comments I have on this video: 1. The cutting edge clearly had a huge burr and needed to be honed on both sides, not just one. 2. For those who suggest heat treating the blade - no, it would not work. Stainless tableware is made out of what is called 'austenitic stainless steel' which does not contain enough carbon to quench harden. It is reasonably hard to begin with, not very good for cutting tools, and can be somewhat work hardened through cold working. Hammering or shot peening the surface for instance. Stainless steel knives are made out of 'martensitic stainless steel' which contains enough carbon to form hard martensite crystals. 3. Another point on hardness - even a relatively soft steel can still be honed to a decent cutting edge. The hardness of the metal affects the durability of the edge, not so much the ability to hone it.
Way to go. Like the old timers used to say, If you once fail, try try again. Never give up my friend some of the greatest inventions, tools, etc., were born out of necessity and a string earlier failures. A testament to why we should keep trying and looking for ways to improve. When I made mine I cut it like your first one but used a die grinder with a series of drums to cut the bevel on the top side. Then polished it with a ceramic stone that closely matched the bevel. This design you made very much resembles a old fashioned spoon bit for a brace. I’ll bet it works great for cutting holes by hand. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. I enjoy watching and the creative thinking it inspires. Have a great day my friend. And again, well done. You should re-bevel your first one to and have two very useful tools. Just a suggestion. Maybe make a follow up video if you make handles or continue to improve your design. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the suggestion Edward, but I've given up on my homemade gouge idea. 😁
I love your determination Ron, all you need to do is to find a spoon made with Damascus steel.
Lenny F you could do a mustard and vinegar patina and achieve a similar "visual" look thats close to damascus
He was referring to strength......can't believe nobody has said that.
Most dinner spoons are not made of Damascus, or any other type of blade steel. You can put a sharp edge on just about anything, but that doesn't mean that it will cut.
Ron you have the artists curiosity.Everyone has ideas ....few get down to actually trying them out. Soldier on !
Thanks a ton for putting these two videos online. It's great to see someone else tinkering like I do sometimes, but for it not to only be shared when everything works perfectly!
Dude, don't push a gouge, or anything sharp,toward your fingers! You'll find out just how sharp your creations really are.
Yes, I thought that to when I saw the video. Thanks :)
Now, for all the many, many of videos about how to do 'stuff', with your 'Morgan Freeman' delivery I think it's the best I have heard, calming and honest.
Thanks for that comment Ray. Usually I get told that I'm using the wrong steel or something, lol. 😁👍
Well, the third time's the charm, right? Another great video. I enjoy seeing people try things. It's what I do.
👍
You can buy spoons at thrift shops for almost no cost, try a plain carbon steel spoon, it can be easily hardened and tempered and will hold an edge better and be sharper when honed with compound on a leather or wood strop. regular spoons are magnetic, stainless usually isn't.
You can always use the first one for stirring half a cup of coffee. sorry couldn't resist.
Now that's good! :)
Awesome! Great job👌👍👏👏👏 I love that grinding machine 😲😍✌
Thank you :)
Yeah that thing is nice!
The stone your putting on your wheel grinds off and forms a slurry, or a grinding paste! So depending on which side of the stone you use, changes the grit of your wheel.
With all the suggestions from the people who have never made or touched a tool in their lifetime, you should be set to make the greatest tool ever.
Haha, yes Kip, all those armchair wannabe inspired comments. You made my day. Thanks! 😁
Good job! Thank you for cool idea.
Thank you:)
Hi Ron, I came across your channel by chance and glad I did, you have a great voice and I like your work, even if it’s not successful. Keep up the great work and I’ll see hopefully more interesting work from you, certainly made me think about making some carving knives 🔪, I have a few mechanical donkeys saw hacksaw blades, more substantial and bigger in all dimensions than the normal hacksaw blade. Thanks for putting a spark in my mind....
Hi Phil,
Yes, we certainly do have fun playing around with this kind of stuff, that's for sure. 👍
That looks like a real good grinding equipment . very nice.
+Sajid Rafique It works good, but it is not fast.
Well done sir! Thank you. Humurous again!
ha ha I saw you yesterday.you dont give up. I love it man
keep on keeping o
Not a bad effort!....the problem is that the spoon is not heat treated so the metal is still essentially soft.
That looks good!! well done.
Thank you :)
Looks good Ron. I have a tool very much like that except where there is the belly of the spoon, I have hollow ground it. This gives you two tools. A slick with a drastic curve to the front so it can smooth the outside of a hemisphere or plane with no risk of digging in anywhere, and a fairly shallow gouge. What I detect in the video is that there is still a significant burr on the edge of your tool. This is bound to be a problem with the relative softness of the stainless. But a culprit is also using the jig on the strop side of the hone. To peel off that burr you need to raise your tool a little higher than the incedence you have it at. And just flip it back and forth until you pull off that burr. With just that you’ll get (at least) an initial cut. That stainless will hold on to its burr pretty stubbornly. That tool (in proper tool steel) I think you would find quite handy.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, agree "in proper tool steel" 👍
try giving the original spoon a much steeper angle and a micro bevel, it should work a lot better that way even compared to this spoon (in theory)
Beautiful ideas very very good job
Thank you :)
ive been making native American flutes and didgeridoos out of sumac. this may be a nice tool for digging out the soft center to make air way. ive already been using a spoon for some of it and have been thinking it would be so much easier if the spoon was sharpened.
Great fix!
I would die for half your workshop!
I started collecting my tools almost 50 years ago. Most of the green stuff is recent though. One of those red toolboxes goes back to the 60's. Altogether it cost less than a new car, and unlike a car, never depreciates. It will be just as good in 20 years as it is now --- but will I:)
Ron Calverley Hi Ron,
I very much appreciate your kind reply and know what you mean when you say"But will I?" Me and my father both bought and intermingled our tools, mostly hand tools with a few special ones that were portable powered, but Both dad and I have been extremely ill and I have been an invalid for the past 22 years. Dad was still working in the shed 15 years after I became an invalid with epilepsy. during this time others in my family have slowly taken tools without even asking, akin to theft really though they would no doubt not see it like that. Those nearest and dearest can be buggers when one is not well enough to even notice due to illness that two or three tools were disappearing every once in a while.
take care and I would still like to know when or if you find that magic angle for your edge!
I have actually thought about using the old silverware for tools. thanks for sharing if you got it sharper i'm sure it would work fine
Thanks for watching and commenting Joe :)
Been thinking of making a spoon carving knife for gouging out the scoop part....I don't have the tool you have here. I like what you did with both spoons...might just need to be thinner to be able to cut? I saw a grinding ball for a drill at hardware store today...might try with dremmel or rounded file will take a while but its satisfying when a few attempta comes out with a usable tool.
I think both could work might just need to be sharper or add a handle....the hardware store even had handles to add to the files...i didt know they existed..but could work as a handle on your spoons.
While out walkin I get my ideas and funny to see this video after thinking about spoon carving and how to make a tool. maybe sharpening the long side...length of the spoon scoop so it can be used sort of like a paring knife only curved.
I have a victornox curved paring knife good for food carving.like melons or pumpkins...hoping to make somethin similar but bigger and hold up to cutting wood .
Spoon tool for carvin spoons.
Love it great video. Good to see other people experimenting with making their own tools for carving
Thank you for commenting. Good luck with your home made spoon gouge. 👍
Definatly better results than the first video SPOONMAN! :-)
Very cool
This videos helped me ,with a project ,
thanks for post
Thanks for watching and commenting Manel 👍
Yessssss ..... That's more like it Ron,!
Ron
Again, thumb UP for the effort, however you have a totally different "spoon" now, the edge is different too.
If you compare the two spoons to a Propeller plane (straight wing) to a fighter Jet plane with sweep back wings.
You changed the geometry of the edge that's why it's cutting now (not for long though, wrong material).
I personally wouldn't continue with this unless you change the steel on it with a hardness of 57-62 on RC level.
Now, if you want to "forge" a chisel, there are plenty of videos for that...
Best.
Cool, that was the better idea. Maybe use a larger and heavier piece of wood for a larger tool , and with a better handle to use presser on it. I don´t know but I like to experiment to with things. lol
+Manuel Casler I'm glad you saw the second try :)
amazing!
The forbidden cereal spoon!
You were on the right track with the first spoon. It needs a much steeper bevel and to be honed further. There are a ton of videos detailing how to sharpen a gouge. With that edge on any chisel the result would be equally disappointing. Well I think the problem would lie is in the tang bending
Thank you for commenting Rico. 👍
this is very good.....................for carving fruit............too
Haha! 😁
Liked for the creativity. I think that assuming you could get it to cut, the next challenge would be the handle wanting to bend
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment :)
My Jr. High shop teacher "Stumpy" Gustafsen would have smacked me on the back of the head for pushing a spoon gouge directly at my hand like that. He got his nickname because he became a master cabinet maker in a totally non powered shop, and when they brought in power tools he ended up with only two complete fingers. The rest were either gone or missing one joint. He got out of the shops and became a teacher. A real safety fanatic.
Hi Lawrence,
Thank you for this interesting comment. Here's hoping that others read it too. And yes, when editing that video years ago, I recall thinking just how dumb that was 😊
You have to heat treat it in order to get any decent results from it.
+SamuelNes Not everyone can heat treat stainless steel at home.
+Hak Kar heat treating stainless steel wouldnt do much anyway. not nearly enough carbon in it
+xWhiteRice stainless steel generally has higher carbon content than carbon steels, just not this low of a grade.
Hak Kar all they need is a torch and water or oil If they have it
Good idea
Bugin One Thanks :)
Terrific! 😃👍
Thanks :)
hey ron.... do you have a way to harden the "blade" steel from a spoon is extremly soft... so you would need to do a hardening and then a tempering... both can be done with pine charcoal in a clay pit with a blower on it... heat the spoon to orange and dip in warm canola oil... this will harden the blade (should make a ring like an anvil) then place the spoon in the oven on 200*c for 6 hours... then dip in oil again.. and final sharpen it and strap it with a straight razor belt...
+Xencept Psyrun You can heat treat this but it wont do anything this kind of stainless doesn't have enough carbon in it to harden
Hardening stainless? Rofl
hi friend. i dont think your stupid at all! it was fun to watch !
Thank you :)
Of youre unhappy with the cutting angle of your tool, just change it. For a lower angle, lengthen the beveled area. My 35m cut 7 straight gouge has a bevel of 21-22degrees and the bevel length of 8mm.
COOL-Look at original works of wood.
Just looking at a regular gouge, I think the answer to this burning question of which side to put the bevel, inside or backside, is 'Yes'. :)
What I would do (and actually just might, if I can snag the necessary raw materials when the wife's not looking) is cut it in half as in Attempt #1, but then find a piece of pipe or tubing with a matching diameter, wrap a few different grits of oiled sandpaper over that, and cut a 10 degree bevel on the inside (depending on how well it holds an edge, may have to go steeper). (EDIT: OR just clamp the oiled paper over the wife's sturdy broom handle -- yeah, that'd do it!) Then fix each grit to the workbench top (I'd be afraid of burning and softening it on a wheel), and cut another 10 degree bevel on the backside of the spoon. I think I would then knock down the heel of that second bevel a bit, the angle between the bevel and the back of the spoon, to round out the bottom of that 10 degrees and allow room for angling the gouge differently while carving.
Then perhaps hammer out the handle to an appropriate angle, sandwich it between 2 hickory scales, riveted and carved, hone the edge (the wife's chef knife honing stick should come in handy for the honing, plus its own handle would be just about perfect for the new gouge), and holding some oiled leather curved in my hand, strop off the wire edge (the top of her new leather purse should have just about the right curve).
So what if her new stainless flatware set and leather purse (broom handle, honing stick, etc...) are ruined? A hand-carved wooden spoon should more than compensate. Right?
🙂
This sharpening thing has become a self standing art. Your spoon looks like many gouges that have the bevel on the other side like your first attempt. Flat chisels cut either way even though they have a single edge. Seems youi need to hone off the burr and/or try a schew angle or a roughing gouge angle. In the end it should sharpen as any other tool just unlikely to hold an edge as long as a HSS and of course a carbide. The weak link at any sharpness will be the spoon handle because it is likely to bend under a load. May want to buy a soup or larger spoon at a thrift store that has a more robust handle and give it a try. Old metal hack saw blades (power type) have been used for years a s tobacco cutting knives. Of course those are hard tempered blades and actually brittle but have very durable edges.
I had never thought of hacksaw blades to obtain high quality steel. Thanks for the tip :)
I think you should go with the 1st design, where you cut it in half & then create your beveled edge. And yes a handle would be great addition.
👍
Experience is a good teacher, & experience offers some hard lessons. I wonder why you changed shapes on the 2nd spoon; it would be interesting to see how a DIY gouge shaped like the 1st spoon would perform with a different taper. Your shaping & sharpening equipment looks very nice & very expensive! Wouldn't a set of high quality gouges cost much less? But sometimes we simply want to experiment! Thanks.
👍
I appreciate your prompt & courteous response. I plan to watch more of your videos. Thanks for your investment of time & energy to share with your viewers! May God bless you.@@roncalverley
Great channel. Liking everything I see. Also like the NY cup. Are you in NY
I'm in Winnipeg, Canada
+Ron Calverley Good old Winterpeg.
Maybe it will work with a good handle?
perhaps if you cut along its length you could make a spoon making knife.
You had the wrong 'DEGREE' on the cutting edge in the first video, I make my own carving knives and adze for Northwest Wood Carving Style, the pitch or "degree" should be no more than 27 Deg off 90. You can research Kestral Tools or Preferred Edge and I believe they have shop prints you could go off of. Cool video, thanks for sharing.
good idea "99"just add a strong handle of hardwood + a vice + a box of band aids .............just in case and we're in business ......carving art :):)
I think you should cut the spoon as you did for the first one
but grind the inner side like the second one
+Afer Etis Thanks for the tip :)
One rough method of nspecting a blade for sharpness is to hold the edge up to a point light source (ie: NOT a fluorescent light) and gently move the edge to try to see if it reflects light. If it does, your tool is not sharp. Every blade will have a minimal angle at which it will bite into what you're carving. Trying to cut at too shallow an angle will result in the blade skipping off rather than cutting.
Great tip! 👍
Now chuck it into a brace and you have an old style spoon bit.
They still sell those here in Canada lol. www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=57713&cat=1,180,42240,53317&ap=1
+Ron Calverley if you cut it tho the same as before in half or actually 1/3 in and also add a handle im sure you would get still much better really just keep in mind that bevel again
You used the jig to get a consistent bevel however i don't think that's what you want. If you cut the spoon first like your first attempt, and then freehand it on the tormek or grinder i think this will work and be a usable tool. It's hard to describe, perhaps i'll try on my t4 and let you know how it goes.
+Richard Patterson
Thanks Richard, I'll be happy to see what you've got in mind :)
lol Still brave enough to share it :)
Great for grapefruit spoon, or making melon balls.
That would make great company for a lonely spork.....
Call it a snife?
I know im a few years late but im thinking while you are grinding the spoon to avoid that noise have it grinding out the spoon have the grinder spinning out of the spoons curve and it will help sharpen without micro backchips
Thank you for that tip :)
Np I have no skills Lol I just thought maybe the lip is microcatching making the chalkboard nail noise. Instead it will be taking away the metal instead of pushing it off.. I think but idk I play with fishtanks all day never metal but I like watching. I truly think your amazing
Well Ron, this was very interesting to watch! I had to laugh a little. You're learning so much about metals and bevels. You're not that far afield from what goes on in "less-developed" countries. Mild steels, including low-grade stainless, are used for all types of tools. They sharpen up reasonably well, but don't hold their edge as long. They'll never be as sharp because the steel crystals aren't as refined, but you can get them sharper than that! Your trick with the Tormek doesn't seem to be getting you a well defined edge. I would grind that bevel inside the the spoon, much shallower and thus deeper, maybe with a Dremel? Then finish it with wet/dry paper, or some abrasive pastes on a roll of paper or leather. I think that your original design, cutting half the spoon off, makes a tool that's much easier to sharpen and would work better. Hardening and tempering will be possible if the steel has a high enough carbon content; if you're using a better sharpening method and it still won't cut, I'd turn to refining the crystal structure with heat treatment. Nic Westermann makes beautiful carving tools that look just like your half-spoon. Good luck!
Thanks Aaron! I'm not a metallurgist, that's for sure. You make me want to dig out the half-spoon. Still have it somewhere. Surprisingly, I don't have a Dremel Tool but I do have a very small air powered grinder that does the same job (noisy thing) Re: "what goes on in "less-developed" countries" --- sometimes I think I was born 200 years too late LOL. :)
at $400/per replacement water stone on the tormek's, I would of put a rough edge on the spoon with an angle grinder first, then used the tormek to put the actual blade on it.
nice video though ,I like the idea
Thanks for commenting Wesley. I made that spoon-gouge almost 3 years ago now. Never used it once yet, lol :)
Morgan Freeman does spoons?
Much better!
Thanks for commenting Doug :)
3:15 and that’s how I got 5 stitches on one side and 2 on the other of my finger using a chisel I just sharpened. (Hint, the corner of the chisel went all the way through)
Okay, okay! I admit it. That was stupid. You can't imagine just how many scoldings I've got over this, lol :)
Starting at 3:27, I was simply scared that you would hurt you and spoon-stab your left hand!
Yes! I have noticed that when I'm videoing a project, I tend to do more stupid things than I normally do. I'll talk about safety, but I don't always practice it. Shame on me! Sometimes when I'm editing my video, I say to myself in disbelief "I did that!!!" I think it may be because my concentration is half on my work, and the other half on my camera. I was 15 when I got my first power tool. I'm almost 70 now, and I look at my hands and I’m surprised that all my fingers are still there lol. Well, maybe I shouldn't laugh. Perhaps I've got a "Guardian Angel" or something. Anyway, thanks for noticing the safety issue, and thanks for the compliment on the project :)
zor jwana
Thank you :)
Nice try, I think if you fix a proper grip to it, it can be amazing.
the bevel on your first spoon was way too steep but on the right side, plus you want to sharpen and heat treat the spoon to maintain the edge, but the steel is probably too soft.
"but on the right side," --- disagree
"heat treat the spoon to maintain the edge" --- agree 👍
a gouge in the very literal sense.
I guess the spoon had its day after all. Here's one for spoon number 2
👍
Might want to consider diluting the coffee a little, before dipping the spoon in ....
LOL :)
use it to drill holes..old style of drill bit I think I have see someplace
+michael ray
Yes, you're absolutely right :) www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=57713&cat=1,180,42337
all the gear no idea
Aye, takes years of collecting
+BBTimba Wulf and some people will have both but procrastinate
Maybe he works full time and doesn't have time to become an expert? Why do you insult people who are experimenting/trying something? Jackass.
well put
never know till you try, the only stupid is NOT trying.
Thank you for taking the time to comment :)
now I'm going to make one
If you can, let us know how it went :)
I was waiting for a bloody mess when you were pushing that spoife...spoon knife... towards your other hand!!!
Sometimes I think that I'm lucky to have any fingers left at all. lol
Cool
Thanks for watching :)
try across grain
A few things:That stainless can't hold an edge. The bevel should be on the outside. (in cannel bevel gouges are mainly used for coping) ...
Your left hand was directly in front of the sharpened edge when you were pushing on the spoon. One slip and you're a candidate for stitches.
You are likely correct on all counts. I guess that I'll never be a good carver lol.
+Ron Calverley "I guess that I'll never be a good carver" Why not? Get the right tools and some good instruction and there would be no stopping you.
:)
At times you really sound like Morgan Freeman. :p
So I'm told :)
polish the blad with 500 grid sandpaper
Finally... after hundreds of comments...
I am no expert, but I feel there is something wrong may be the gouge is too wide hence not so effective? How about making the gouge out of the spoon handle, like a fish tail gouge ? its a more flat than curve but may work
Yes, that plus the fact that it does not have a proper handle strong enough to apply pressure into the wood. Also now that I think back, it likely would have done better in a very soft wood. That wood you see, as I recall, was fairly hard. Also I think that I should have done a better job sharpening. I stopped too soon.
+Ron Calverley Thanks for replying.
That is correct, did not think of it (proper handle).
All the gouges Ive seen have the bevel on the bottom, not on the top.
👍
Time for Part Three? LOL
Thanks, but no! 😁
the reason why the corse sidw of the stone makes the grinding stone corse because it scribes corse lines in the stone
Thank you for you comments :)
Is this why the stone is so thick, because it will grind down over time and have to be replaced?
Good sir👍👍
Flat edge is more effective
Yes 👍
I'd like that 4 min. of my life back.
j cloke nope
"i have more time than money".... I do not mind wasting time with videos of idiots. kkkkkkkk
Food fights are very dangerous this days
i need one of thows moma makes some thick soup ...
Haha! Thanks for watching and commenting :)
Any one else get anxiety when he tried to carve it
Apparently lots of people did. That was really stupid on my part. But thanks for watching and commenting :)
Comments I have on this video:
1. The cutting edge clearly had a huge burr and needed to be honed on both sides, not just one.
2. For those who suggest heat treating the blade - no, it would not work. Stainless tableware is made out of what is called 'austenitic stainless steel' which does not contain enough carbon to quench harden. It is reasonably hard to begin with, not very good for cutting tools, and can be somewhat work hardened through cold working. Hammering or shot peening the surface for instance.
Stainless steel knives are made out of 'martensitic stainless steel' which contains enough carbon to form hard martensite crystals.
3. Another point on hardness - even a relatively soft steel can still be honed to a decent cutting edge. The hardness of the metal affects the durability of the edge, not so much the ability to hone it.
Thank you for your informative comment Frank :)
Good try
Thanks for watching :)
This is great!
that's another teasing video
Thanks for watching and commenting 😊
i think it was a good idea
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment :)
very funny man