How to Replace Front Drivers Side Power Window Regulator 93-11 Ford Ranger
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a slow, stuck, cracked or damaged window regulator. This video is applicable to the 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 Ford Ranger
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
1998 Ford Ranger
1999 Ford Ranger
2000 Ford Ranger
2001 Ford Ranger
2002 Ford Ranger
2003 Ford Ranger
2004 Ford Ranger
2005 Ford Ranger
2006 Ford Ranger
2007 Ford Ranger
2008 Ford Ranger
2009 Ford Ranger
2010 Ford Ranger
2011 Ford Ranger
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oBn/1AX...
• Phillips Head Screwdriver 1aau.to/oBn/1AX...
• 11mm Socket 1aau.to/oA8/1AX...
• Rivet Gun & Rivets
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oDE/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oA8/1AX...
• Drill
• Drill Bit Set 1aau.to/om/1AXA...
• Gloves 1aau.to/odJ/1AX...
• Painter's Tape
• Center Punch 1aau.to/obE/1AX...
• Chisel 1aau.to/obE/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/ohM/1AX...
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Ford Ranger 1998-2012 3rd Gen: • Ford Ranger 1998-2011 ...
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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3:35 wait a minute... this window already works! no fair!
This is a great video for reference if your window works... Mine was stuck in the closed position so I couldn't drill out the rivets for the glass. Instead, to get the motor out, I drilled a 1" (25mm) hole above and to the right of the lowest rivet, where the 3rd bolt for the motor is, and drilled out the lower rivet. Now I could take the 3 bolts out and remove the motor. My problem turned out to be a bound-up regulator, and when I took the motor out I was able to free up the mechanism and just reinstall the original motor.
+gavin downie Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I just completed this job. You don't have to remove the horizontal rail from the glass or the verticle post, which greatly simplifies the job! The regulator can be removed after four rivets holding it are, the end of regulator arm can be slid out of front of horizontal rail, and the new one placed in in reverse! It works perfectly and is so much easier, I promise.
Absolutely. Drilling out the window rivets is asking for trouble. It is Completely unnecessary if all you are doing is replacing the motor. This video needs to be re done or removed.
One quick question I have a 2001 ford ranger and the driver side window makes a loud banging noise when I fully close it. What could be causing that. Am worried it might break my glass
@@mcrow3856quick question
..
At 4:54 that connector is the motor drive. If your window doesn't move at all, you should put a voltmeter on this, cycle the switch and verify you even have power to the motor, BEFORE drilling ANY rivets. Your problem may be the switch, a fuse, a relay, a ground lug... A dead regulator motor is a pretty common problem, but you should always check the cheap and easy stuff FIRST before buying expensive parts and ripping things apart.
+eilliwwasniahc Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
So my driver window goes down sometimes but has to have help back up as of recently it won’t go down it makes a clock sound under the dash and my driver side power locks don’t work any more is there any thing you know about this problem
I haven't did several of these and you do not have to take rivets out of glass or vertical rod.
Just replaced mine and used the 1/4" rivets that came with my Harbor Freight Heavy duty hand riveter ($16.00 with coupon) Made it easy and faster than bolts.
There is no need to remove the glass, it even stays where it is by its self.
great video, but what if the window is stuck in the up position?
@NZT TZN thanks for the tip! Doing this today... don't want to break the glass!
If so there are other screw heads you will see and be able to access simply if ya look around a bit
If possible, get rid of the power window assembly and install a crank handle!!!!!!!!!!!
Is it really necessary to disconnect the switches assy? All you need to do is slide it through the hole and let it hang. I didn't see where you put lock washers on with the nuts. For easier installation, I would recommend using lock nuts or risk the nuts coming loose. The fifth nut you left out can be installed with the right size and a little thought. Thanks for posting. I enjoy your input.
I have removed the rivets from the window motor but I can not get the window to go down to remove the bracket from the glass. How can I get the window down to access the bracket?
What size bolts would be best
That all worked until I tighten the front bolt going threw the window and the glass exploded, oh well back to the yard and try again.
is that track u unbolted bent or no
what length are those bolts? 1 inch?
My 2004 Ranger driver window starts to go up, 1/2 way it seems to be cocked a bit?, I pull up on the window and, with help and the regulator still trying, it gets 1/8" from the top. Is this a regulator issue? Anyone please help. Thanks
What if the window is stuck in the 90% closed position?
A great video/help for me! I've watched this twice & taken notes...I'm ready to rumble with my new/used 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L with a dead driver's side power window! Er, except there's 1 problem...kinda big headache...I replaced the ignition switch (not the key cylinder) as the truck was experiencing random no start/crank episodes once in a while. It seemed like jiggling the shift lever and/or key got it started, so for $18 I took a chance & replaced the switch. Now the truck is in anti-theft mode & the dash is deader than a doornail. No 'check engine' light or ANY lights appear or will turn on. Not a crank or peep from Mr. Starter.
I been haunting the Ranger Forums trying Reset tips (with caution - I don't want to fry the PCM or GEM and whatever else is in the signal path to start!).
My key is a plain one...not the fob with door locks/horn/start on it. A guy at a shop down the road seemed to think I inadvertently cleared out the whole memory in the PCM (?) He didn't seem to upset/worried about anything and indicated he could stop by my carport after work & do what he does to make a Ford happy(!)
I guess I'll have to shelve my power window repair until I get Accessory power restored, etc. I can wait...just a bummer having to hang a tarp over the door 24/7 as it's been raining every 2 days here in MO for two-and-a-half freaking months! And it always comes in quick when I have the tarp pulled up! :-(
(The Park to Drive shift lever and key turn didn't work...Off/On 8 times + power lock didn't work...that's for the fob key anyways. I had the negative battery off for quite a while while I did the spark plugs & wires....hmmmm, one guy said there was a little red light on the dash of his 1999 Ranger blinking along with the 'Theft' light (?), but didn't realize it could be pressed, and when he did - voila - no more startus interruptus! I have yet to see WTF he's talking about & seeing! He must have a Mazda or ?? Another guy said to pull negative off and touch to positive for several minutes (?) or however long it takes to do a 'system reset'.
I don't know if this is Ford's rec way of doing this, so yeah, this is something I want to be cautious about!
If anybody out there been through this & care to chime in I'm ALL ears! Seems like several defaulted to finding their Transceiver was bad/went bad/or needed to be re-programmed. I haven't paid my dues yet in learning about this vehichle, so excuse my ignorance(!) I'm on it, though!
I just feel SO special that Ford's theft algorithm is protecting me & thieves against starting this 20-year old truck & driving off with it! LOL Good luck with that - one patch of level grass with dew on it and all you do is spin/slide/tear up your lawn being as how the 4WD doesn't work either! And Ford put a protective key cylinder in the spare tire access hole for which the previous owner had no key for...and the ignition key doesn't fit it(!) Called 3 locksmiths and they said what my neighbor wanted to do, and I wouldn't let him as I thought maybe it too was connected to the anti-theft system, but they all said "DRILL IT OUT! 20-years old...it's corroded & won't work anyway!" Wise Words!.
+boboala1 Thanks for the feedback!
Seriously.. rubber gloves?!?!..🤪