1980 Mayland Fishing Boat - Stripping The Cabin
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2022
- In this episode I continue to work on our 1980 Mayland 15 cuddy boat, getting it ready for the water. I decided to remove those hideous plastic windows with a hammer, and start to prep the boat for painting. I really do love this boat!
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Glad to see that the furry inspector is keeping an eye on you and checking your work.
I fully expect to be sacked by the furry inspector at some point! 😄
By the time you finish, I will be an expert Adam.
And this is just the first of many boats, another two lined up and more on the way to add to the fleet!
@@skipperstan you need to learn to work fast if you're doing multiple boats. My advice would be to find a paint system that you know works good and only needs a few stages. Your prep and paint stage will make or break you so find a system that suits you and that doesn't require days of refining.
Hi I refurbish Maylands I still have a late 70s fisher 14 fully reinforced from the cuddy to the transom. On Maylands you basically have either an older made one that has a genuine epoxy hull and two layers of white powder looking chop strand layers as the inner hull. Later ones they put more wood in the hull and cheapened out had a polly hull but the same white looking chop strand on the inner hull. If you are doing repairs on the outside of the hull on Maylands you NEED to use proper epoxy as polly and vinyl won't last on these hulls they need to be repaired with proper epoxy like west systems and either biaxial or powder bound chop strand 300 or 450g. The inner hull you need to use powder bound chop strand and epoxy for the transom to replace the old two layer chop strand and on the deck sole you need to use proper epoxy.. elsewhere you can use polly and vinyl epoxy without issues. If you don't stick to these rules the shrinkage and lesser bond of the polly and vinyl epoxy will suffer as these boats like to be stiff in certain areas and like to be flexible in other areas. They were originally designed of Vospa torpedo boat hulls so they are mathematically sound. Paint wise on mayland and any boat from this era you ideally want to scrape back to the gellcoat/grp and go with a 2pack epoxy primer but use the suitable thinner for the first coat so it goes on fast, following coat go on as thick as you can get it to still flow over. If using a spray gun you will need to use plenty of thinners and keep adding thinners if the gun starts drying up. From there you are best using a 2 pack epoxy topcoat on the deck and on the cuddy do the same a 2 pack epoxy primer then you can even lay up some hempel 1 pack primer and 1 pack brilliant gloss thinned out at 5% with a spray gun for an absolutely lush 15yr finish that is easily sand & cut & polished out every few year. The mayland with floatation tanks as seats both outside and inside the cuddy then so you know the boat is unsinkable if capsized. If you have the Fisher model it will partially self right if capsized. Great boats but not as forgivable as say a Shetland if refurbishing it without prior knowledge. Shetland and Orkney you can fix them up with old leftover epoxy and talcum powder and they tend to get away with it as the materials weren't really of the same scale as some of the older Maylands and the likes. See the skinny little backbone transoms on the Maylands... don't be fooled they can take vastly oversized motors as long as like I said its all been repaired/refurbished with proper epoxy.
WOW! Thank you so much for your comment! Thank you for giving me so much information, it's really helpful and I will take your advice. I haven't been able to do any work on any of the boats as I have been ill for a few weeks, hence no videos but I do hope to get back soon and upload 2-3 videos a week. So, would you say this boat is a Mayland?
Hi mate it's defo a Mayland Cabin Cruiser. Can you measure the exact length of it from the tip of the bow to the top of the transom, they came in various sizes but to give you the exact year of manufacture you'd need to measure it exactly.
See to not get runners on GRP you need to spray fast and thick. Get the paint thinned out so it sprays good then dial it in for a full heavy coat, use as big a tip size as you have and lower the pressure if need be to get it spraying on more liquid finish than a powder finish. Your painting is far to powdery and thin you haven't got the correct thickness per coat for boats you cannot go on too thin its not an automotive base coat. One way to get the primer and paint to flow correctly and at least get a less dry finish is to pour a ton of thinners in the pot right at the end and do one last pass to lay a thin out flow coat. If you don't do this you might as well bang your head against the wall as you won't even cover harmless hairline gelcoat cracks with your primer, it will dry out and youl see them jusy as the next day with the shrinkage. Boats you need to hose the paint on and do it fast and don't overlap too much.. then walk away never try to recover mistakes until the next coat just strictly concentrate on getting a nice thickness and keep a wet edge going at all times. Recap> set gun up for as much fluid fow as possible. Dial air pressure in so paint is going on thick but without splatter... Then shoot Fast and GTFO.