The first 5 mods every 5.7L HEMI owner should consider!
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- čas přidán 22. 04. 2023
- Like, Comment, and Subscribe! More to come!
I've been asked by many people what modifications I recommend for 5.7L HEMI powered cars. so in this video, I listed the first 5 (6) mods I would consider to be the best to start with. This video applies to Dodge Dakotas, Chrysler 300Cs, ram trucks, Challengers, Chargers, Durango's, and anything else driven by the 5.7L HEMI Power plant. I not only gave the first five mods, but in pretty good detail, I gave reason as to why I would jump on these mods first, and kick off my build with them. From wheels and tires, to an oil catch can, to getting a tuner, onto getting a 180° thermostat, and a limited slip differential, each mod listed should improve the performance and driveability of your car. (If done correctly)
To keep up with the build and see more content posted by me more frequently follow my social media accounts!🙏🙂
Instagram: @Underdogbuilds
(Daily shenanigans on Instagram🫶🏼)
TikTok: @Underdogbuilds
Links:
Wheels (what ive got - Forgestar F14s): www.fitmentindustries.com/buy...
Tires (Nitto NT555 G2s - 275/35ZR20 recommended): m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js...
Oil catch can: www.custombilletstore.net/Hem...
Coil overs: shop.bcracing-na.com/products...
Diablo intune i3 (make sure you select the correct one!): www.holley.com/products/tuner...
HHP 180° T-stat: highhorseperformance.com/hhp-...
LSD swap kit (that i will be using): www.stevewhiteparts.com/p-cha...
First thing in any high mileage hemi should be replace the oil pump with either a Hellcat or Melling HV oil pump as well as replace the junk factory lifters with the Isky bushing type lifters!
I completely agree. This video isn’t based strictly on high milage examples. Some folks who have reached out in my direct messages have 20k miles and want to start modifying their car but don’t want to do anything very intense. I recommend every pre-eagle owner to address the issues with the heads at the very least. A couple of my other videos speak on replacing lifters, installing an upgraded oil pump, replacing the water pump, and more. Interestingly, Some people refuse to get rid of MDS and limit themselves with lifter choices. I touched on this in my how to “bulletproof” a 5.7L HEMI video. 🫱🏻🫲🏼😄
This was a low quality video that needs to be revised; however, I have a video coming on this subject “what to consider when building a higher mileage HEMI”.
I appreciate you tuning in man, Have a great day!
@@Underdogbuilds I’m just paranoid of these lifters, as an Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep service advisor/manager for numerous years and owning an 06CSRT, as I’ve seen them fail as soon as 20k miles. I’m on my 4th set of lifters and 3rd cam at this point. On the last failure I went with a total rebuild into a 426 with the Melling HV oil pump and the Isky bushing lifters and that engine has never been more quiet!
Mannnn, me and you both! I’m paranoid as hell, haha. I appreciate you, your knowledge, and your expertise! It’s insane how early these lifters can fail, I wish they would have installed a high volume oil pump from factory in the 09+ models at least! 4 sets of lifters and 3 camshafts is most definitely some real world data if I’ve ever seen it. Those 426 Ci motors are monsters 😮💨 I’ll definitely be grabbing a high pressure high volume pump for ~$200! Could you possibly link those Isky lifters if you have time man? I would love to check them out! I’ll most likely grab some this spring to throw in the car.
I would love for my HEMI to quiet down a bit, especially with that header ping, haha! It sounds like you’ve found the perfect combo for these HEMIs😄 are you running 5w-20 for oil? I’ve heard of many people running a couple different weights. I stick to the good ol’ 5w-20 but I’m genuinely curious.
@@Underdogbuilds 0w-40 per Mopar recommendations.
Love the video man!
Best advice on here my friend is do your research. Good video
Great video brotha💪🏽👈🏽
Thank you man, I appreciate that very much! I’m looking to improve video quality and consistently this year 😄🙏
Spend once cry once lol dope vid. Got a 2012 Chrysler 300c I’m going to start modding up soon so I’m watching
Yessirrr, haha. Spend once, cry once has saved me a bit of money! And thank you man, I really appreciate it! I wish you the best of luck with the 2012 300C, I’ve got more videos coming including more mods and going a tad bit more in depth in some things! From mods that help at the drag strip or for racing to How to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat. Have a blessed day!🙏🤞🏼😄
Very first thing...upgrade to either a Hellcat oil pump or a Melling HV 10452
Yo bro I came from IG this what I needed
I appreciate you checking out the CZcams content🙏🤞🏼 more videos coming soon! A video should be dropping by the end of the weekend😃 I’ll be making another video in the future along the lines of “Every mod a 5.7L HEMI owner should consider”
You just got a new subscriber. Great video 👍🏽
Thank you, I really appreciate it! More videos coming very soon! 🙏😁 I’ve got quite a bit planned as of now
@@Underdogbuildsyou’re welcome. I have a 2021 300S 5.7 and I haven’t done anything yet! I’ll definitely stay tuned..thanks!
You sir, have got a subscriber
yo please do an in depth install vid on the racing coils🙏
Of course man🫡🙏 I’ll make sure to, I appreciate you tuning in!
09:44 i have thermostat that is opened at 88C and fans are set to start at 96C and still if outside temp is over 30C , at 200km/h on highway, end temp goes over 100C, so i made water spray nozzles to spray water on eng radiator(still did not installed)
facts
I appreciate you🙏🏼 New video will be dropping soon as well🙂 “5 more mods every 5.7L HEMI owner should consider” and we’ll be diving deeper into the mods!
🔥🔥
I appreciate it! Thanks for tuning in fammo🙏
For my 06 300C I installed a 3.06 gear from a 2010 - 2014 challenger (open diff) abt 300 bucks. (Stock gear 2.82) makes it a bit more fun without the big expense of a posi.(get the axels and larger wheel bearings as well)
Have you done anything else ? I just bought the same yr and model and and all it had added was spacers
@Baby9inee get a 180 Tstat and be VERY certain your cooling system is solid !!! Soon as you can get a tuner so you can adjust fan turn on temperature and to turn off MDS. While you're there increase transmission shift firmness.
Learn about the conductor plate and leaking electrical plug in transmission .
Change the trash pre egal heads is the first thing you should do
I somewhat agree, this video was more so “starter” mods or more simple things. I’ll be posting a revised version of this video once the others I have ready go up. The pre-eagle heads can be reworked pretty easily by a company such as MMX. Also, for instance, a car that has been taken care of very well such as mine will not necessarily need it. My heads are silent. Any noise heard from the front of the vehicle is header ping, but I will be installing ported heads this spring when I get the vehicle out of storage.
6:50 i have trinity and no difference between any tune for stock engine, it has sense if you change intake, exhaust or cam, then you need custom tune
I understand what you’re saying, some folks can pick up a bit more power over the factory tune working with a tuner but it’s not really worth while, but as soon as you have long tube headers or anything else it is. Of course, At the minimum to adjust the air fuel ratio
they dont suck extra oil into the intake manifold.... the oil catch can is to catch oil being puked out of the engine, because you eliminated the stock PVC system.. . you see the pvc system is set up to pull excess gasses out of the crankcase.. with the restricitive stock set up, the filter box pulls too much vacuum on the hose going into the valve cover and you will get oil on your filter, and in your stock filter box bottom,,,, it doesnt get sucked back into the intake,,, with a catch can, the engine is not sucking excess gasses out of the crankcase, and THAT can cause problems.. you need a flowmaster cold air intake set up, that the stock PVC attaches to,, its still pulling gasses out of the engine but not enough to have the oil get sucked out like the stock set up.. if that oil catch can set up gets clogged or full and cant pass gasses, the engine will blow seals. think of it as a human who cannot fart,,, the pressure has to go somewhere,,
you should think abt all the newfangled bullshit being sold before you go out and buy it,,
I appreciate the explanation! sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment, I’m glad to learn more. I can’t believe that some folks don’t mind the “blow back” oil being pulled into the intake and intake manifold. I was thinking of venting to atmosphere, i know a couple folks who do and told me it’s a great idea. What are your thoughts?
Try the firestone indy 500 i dont spin with them
I’ll definitely have to look into them! Thank you.🙏🙂
What’s the apple CarPlay/bluetooth in your car link?
Hey man what year is your 300?
What if you have a hemi tick? Is it things you need to do to it before modding
Great question my man, it depends on your mindset. Some people have the hemi tick and don’t mind because Mopar released a statement saying that the hemi tick is pretty much normal, and is not known to be a major issue.
It also depends on the motor. If you have a 2009 or newer 5.7 L hemi, they are known for cam and lifter failure. So, many people with eagle motors tend to fix it.
The best way to fix it would be to install new lifters while doing the camshaft. The camshaft that I will be installing requires new lifters that are non-MDS so it works out perfectly for my pre-eagle motor. You could get a MDS delete kit or just a regular cam kit that includes new lifters. I also wanted to mention that many people believe that the hemi tick can be contributed to the lifters not getting enough oil at idle. So what I will be doing is installing a hellcat oil pump, as they are higher volume pumps and the rotors are slightly thicker than a standard 5.7 or 6.4 oil pump. 🫱🏻🫲🏼🙂
If it is lifter tick, change cam and lifters. Will only get worse, especially if you get on it and drive hard. Ticking because cam lobe and lifter wheel are both worn unevenly.
@@bigcjd49So when I went to my mechanic and mentioned I don’t like that sound. He said it’s normal. But I asked is there a way to stop it? He claimed no. So basically it’s an actual issue that you can fix? And is it damaging the engine slowly? I’ve had my 07 hemi now 2 years.
2011 ram 1500 with 5.7. It had paperwork for a rebuilt engine. But had a tick from the gate of me buying it. Settled down after warming up but was always there for a year. Drove Excellent , not a shake or vibration , passed inspections no prob then one day it totally took a shit on me. Metal in the oil, needs to be replaced now .
Hptuners is better than diablo. Diablo sometimes glitch on you and it gets scary
What tuning kit would you suggest for 300 Chrysler 2019 5.7 hemi?
2019 would need ECU swap or unlock before can tune. Any Chrysler product newer than 2014 needs to have unlocked ECU
I agree with the other user that responded. The best course of action is to decide whether you want to build the vehicle or just get a little tune to wake it up. You could go the Diablo route and run a canned tune or purchase an aftermarket tune. Or on the other hand there’s HP tuners. The best thing to do is get in contact with the tuner you would like to use and ask what platform they use. Have a great day!
I would suggest an upgraded oil pump, stock 6.4l camshaft, (non MDS) and of course MDS delete kit and reflash the PCM. Factory OEM exhaust manifolds for a SRT Hellcat and cat back exhaust
Plan on getting a 2017 300c would ts apply?
100%! The 5.7L motor videos I make cover pre-eagle and eagle motors. There’s slight differences but the main gist of things is the same. The eagle motors just have improvements over the motors produced before 2009
heres the thing with a cold air intake tune,, the cold air intake gives around 20 hp alone,,, diablo says 25 with the filter and 93 tune,, so the tune is really giving u another 5 hp.. the real benefit of the diablo tuner is u can turn off your MDS system and not have a check engine light on.,. as far as engine temp,, the hotter an engine runs, the more efficient it is and more horsepower,, there are engines that run at 135 to 140 F.. The reason for a lower temp stat in these cars is so they dont drop valves ..also the AC will work better because the condensor sits right next to the radiator.
In no world is a cold air intake giving you 20hp lmaooo
I mean you can also run some Arturo’s they are a pretty cheap tire and are pretty good
I’ll definitely look into some Arturo’s, especially if I can save a little money for the fun. I’ll need some burners as well either way!
Links to the products have been posted🙂 (in the description)
Hey how much mileage did you have on yours when you bought it
Yoo Idk if this is irrelevant since it’s been a year almost but I got my 06 hemi at 126n on marketplace. Ofc it had a minor fix (needed new water pump) but paying 200 for that (including repair) is okay with me. Can’t beat a hemi for 5k that has a fresh new engine work and is clean inside and out
Ok I have to subscribe you talking that shit.
W
I appreciate you man🙏🏼🤞🏼
From det?🔥🔥🔥 and I got some questions with the 300
Yessir🤞🏼 based out of the metro Detroit area. I’m happy to help with any questions family!
What should I pay for a 05-06 if I cash out
@@DylanJohnson-re2reit depends on the car itself. I payed $9k after taxes for my 05’ 300C with 119k miles but it was a one owner, garage kept, and all maintenance was tracked on carfax. Also, it was from a dealership, you can find better pricing through private sales though. You can find some down near the $3,500 range but those cars typically have a “8 owner, fleet use, 2 accident” tag associated with them. I’d say on average $5-7k and for the ones kept a bit nicer around $7-10k
@Underdogbuilds I knew you had to be from Detroit. Been watching your videos and noticed you holding the BREEZE. I just picked up a 2005 300C with 968 original miles. Looking to make this thing last me a long time. Thanks for the useful knowledge!
I just bought a 300 c 170000 km ish maybe 175 km …..100000 miles ish would look but in getting breaks done rotters all the fluids chamged and the straight pipes meg tips now oil catch can miss already only have had 3 days before….. the 24 in divinci low pro tires look nice but no good lol fuuuck
Hell yeah! That’s what I would do 😄 100,000 miles is a really solid milage! Exhaust mods definitely make a huge difference. I can’t wait to finish my exhaust. What are your plans for the car?
a new camera
😂 you right
@@Underdogbuilds ay the new vids look good tho
What about LPG?
If you’re referring to Liquefied petroleum gas, it’s definitely something that folks should look into. I just personally don’t think of it when the first 5 mods come to mind.
can you list the links for any of the mods
🤞🏼yessir, I should’ve listed them in the description. Let me go ahead and add them
Are you in Detroit?
the first thing any 5/7 liter owner should do is upgrade to a 6.1 an quit playing and acting bad.
The 5.7 is my first car at 17 it’s really if you can handle it and no point of going up in power if your not tuning or decreasing wheel spin
5.7 better motor
@@brucealmqiist2055it is and stronger bottom.A 6.1L is basically bored 5.7L
How much better is the 6.1? I’m choosing between borh
@@carlosleyva2496 5.7 is supposed to be the better motor
This must be a parody, a dud of a parody.
A parody of who? 😂 these are the first 5 mods I’d personally consider. There’s 5 more as well in another video. With 144 watch hours it must be one hell of a dud, pal. Keep that bitterness and have a blessed day!
Just got an 06 300c with 126 on the 5.7. What should I do man ?
You definitely don't want to get heavier wheels & tires that increase your unsprung weight & reduce the suspension's handling characteristics.
100%, a wider wheel & tire set-up doesn’t necessarily mean heavier. In fact I recommend a 17 or 18 for the rear, from a reputable brand such as Forgestar, weld, or something similar. Decreasing weight while increasing traction is the way to go. 20s are the largest i would go.
Sorry but I beg to differ my stock wheels on my 300 don’t burn at all. It’s all wheel drive so also having different sized tires is a bad thing for all wheel drive. Oil catch not a bad idea mine does use a lil extra oil
The problem is that the AWD cars have larger brakes and a different hub offset from the RWD cars. However there are some aftermarket wheels that will fit and they have to specifically state "for AWD" models. There are plenty aftermarket rims at 19, 20, 22 inch to fit the AWD. the need to keep the overall tire height as close as possible to the original height of the factory setup to avoid AWD and any other driveline/computer issues is valid; however, the wheel and tire set-up can be changed entirely. I’ve had a couple of buddies who would spin a bit with AWD models. A Chrysler 300 uses a front-axle disconnect system, which is capable of transitioning power to the front wheels when a slip is detected in the rear wheels. The vehicles would quickly switch from RWD to AWD and correct it, but they wanted no slippage. Also, that’s only half of the reason to consider aftermarket wheels and tires. One of the main reasons many people in the community upgrade their wheels & tires is for looks, some people have told me they care more about looks rather than performance. I’ll be doing a first 5/top 5 video for performance mods very soon.
Also, all of these motors (5.7L, 6.1L, 6.4L, and 6.2L) tend to. My buddy vents to the atmosphere and will still have oil pool in his intake manifold. My other buddy just reported what looks to be carbon build up where the manifold meets his heads, but it’s oil that had been pooled within the intake manifold. It’s “normal” but an oil catch can will help. It won’t stop it 100%, but it will help. (It even happens with blowers. Oil will pool in an Edelbrock blower, whipple, etc.) I hope you have a great day man!