How To Rebuild Your Motorcycle's Brake Calipers | MC Garage
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- čas přidán 21. 09. 2017
- Hydraulic brake calipers are pretty simple and very reliable, but they do occasionally suffer problems. Whether your brakes are dragging excessively or there’s hydraulic fluid dripping from your the binders, the issue can usually be traced to worn or torn piston seals or rusty pistons.
In either case, a rebuild is the best way to remedy the problem. Lucky for you, we’ve got a video that walks you through the process.
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Hydraulic brake calipers are pretty simple and very reliable, but they do occasionally suffer problems. Whether your brakes are dragging excessively or there’s hydraulic fluid dripping from your the binders, the issue can usually be traced to worn or torn piston seals or rusty pistons.
In either case, a rebuild is the best way to remedy the problem. Lucky for you, we’ve got a video that walks you through the process. You’ll need new seals and perhaps new pistons for your brake calipers, as well as a few other basic tools and supplies. It’s really not a difficult procedure, and it’s outlined in detail in this video. Enjoy.
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Next level MC Garage! Always good to see maintenance guides, thanks for making these
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MC garage series, the only videos on CZcams I always hit that like button on!
and with 100% support
no garage is complete without the 80 flippin cans of brake cleaner in the background lol. Great job
sponsored maybe?
This is precisely what I needed to know.
Very clear and straight forward.
Thank you for putting in the time to share your knowledge.
You always make the steps clear and easy to follow. Thanks guys!!
These videos have saved me so much money. Feels really good to do your own work and have your bike ride like new again after. Thanx Guys!
Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Really enjoy all the MC Garage vids. So many other CZcamsrs spend more time on BS and playing to the camera with their effects and acting crap, cannot stand watching them. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense. Hats off to you guys.
Your MC Garage how to videos are the best on the internet. Hands down. Another great job.
Always love MC Garage series, AH is the best host on the interwebs!
Came here to find out what the correct seal orientation was. Your video answered my question. Thank you for an intelligent, no BS video.
Awesome work as always.
Love these walkthroughs
Great easy to understand maintenance guide, Just what's needed
Right on time. About to rebuild my calipers soon.
Another Great video Ari! Thanks for all the great instructional videos!
Finally got my front brakes to work right by just a simple disassembly and cleaning, replaced lines with braided and bled. Smooooooootthhhhh as silk now instead of grabby.
Thanks for sharing the MC garage series, it's very useful to us. But we don't have so many professional tools if we want to rebuild the motorcycle's brake calipers.
Super helpful and very thorough. Thank you!
Very much needed this video ! Thanks a ton!
Awesome as always, good job Ari !
Excellent work as always!
Been working on a 98 CBR 600 F3 and right when I get one thing fixed the next goes wrong. Just got carburetors rebuilt, finally got started and not first though second test ride the front brakes decided to clamp shut upon pulling up to consummate. Thank goodness for this video.
Amazing!!!!! i learn so much with you guys
well done, quick and efficient, thanks!
best repair videos ever!
Thanks. This was really useful to me.
Mates rebuilding cals, this is an excellent video to help him whilst I'm away 👍 like customer support for bikes
Great video! I would love to know more about how the lip on the seal helps pull the pistons back into place after the pressure is off. I just powder coated and rebuilt the calipers on my street glide and I tell you the high-pressure seal looked the same no matter which way I flipped it.
Love the maintenance tips and guides you guys provide..keep it up
Thanks Gary.
Very useful video. Thank you!
ANOTHER great video guys!!!
I've been riding for 49 yrs. and I absolutely love this channel, because I think most motorcycles (IMHO) get only marginal care at best. That being said, I know you cover the ONE thing that everyone should know how to do to the used bike they have just bought.. EVERYTHING. Thanks for you amazingly easy to follow and very accurate instruction.
Phoenix Moore It took me yr`s to finally realize my suspension and braking should be main my concerns regarding maintenance and settings, I've tried to explain this to new riders to maybe they will learn a bit sooner than me.
Excellent video informative and well detailed
Amazing videos. Keep it coming!!
Damn man, nice to find this. Well done!
Awesome as usual
Nice vid. Help me a lot with my S1000rr brembo brakes issues
Nice! I want to go rebuild my brakes now...
Great HOW TO!!
Brilliant and straight to the point video ! I was scared to take the pistons out.(strong drag even after cleaning them on the calipers). Now I'm confident about it ! I will probably use the line to push them put as far as possible before disconnecting it.
thank you for the top content!
Hey there is a very simple (and safe) way to get your pistons out using the right size socket and a ratchet. Rather than try to explain it here, just check out "Delboy's Garage: Tokico 6 pot caliper rebuild" video and fast forward to where he takes the pistons out.
Like he says in this video, on single piston calipers the compressed air works great and works a lot of the time on calipers with more pistons. Just sometimes you have a stubborn piston that won't budge even with air.
That's a nice looking KTM 950 👌🏻
It's Zack Court's. He was kind enough to lend it to us for the demo.
Ari Henning please find some excuse to have the 950 in a future vid... mc commute hooligan edition??
Cheers brother your vids are awesome!
Awesome post thanks...👍
Great video man
Great help
Love this video
awesome Video! thanks!
Good job
Great video
Hi there, nice work. I've been watching your videos for a long time.
A very nice tool to remove the pistons if you don't got a brake piston remover, is an External 90 Circlip Plier. Attached from the inner side of the piston with no chance of damage.
Good tip, thanks!
Good video, just got a nearly 30 year old bike for my 30 year old self recently, and everything needs work. I tried to fit some replacement pads today and the pistons were absolutely unmovable in the caliper, I figure it's about time for a rebuild.
"this is a beard level 3 in the beard scale of difficulty"
Govind Sankar GG you won the internet today 😂😂
Hahaha... I wonder how high the beard scale goes? Is there such a thing as maximum beard? 😁
Yes Chuck Norris beard which is so hard even God wouldn't attempt it himself XD
lmao! >
@@MJT-DA God can't do it, he fucks up everything he touches.
I didn;t know that the seals had an orinetation.
kept on wondering why the piston kept ripping my seals when I was trying to push them back.
New seals have been ordered thanks for he tip!
nice one very very usfull good job
3:40 that's why i have pressed the like button
I really like this video
Thanks man✌
Good job... Thank
nice to see new uploads! :)
Every two weeks Peter. We haven't missed by more than a day or two in more than two years.
thanks guy
Thanks
I just performed this periodic maintenance on my 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR. A few shared thoughts on my process:
1. I read the service manual several times for the corrext procedure, annotating torque specs, veeifying tools necessary, materials, supplies, etc.
2. I watch several CZcams videos on the procedure. Save the best videos for reference.
3. Be vedy methodical in your process for removal, parts accountability, cleaning, reassembky, installation, and torque specs.
Removal was the easy part, but I removed my calipers before I had all my brake caliper parts for reassembly. This was to ensure thorough cleaning. For cleaning, I set up a 3-Stage "station." Following a good toothbrush scrub down with soap and water, my first pan was for brake cleaner scrub. 30-60 seconds for my own procedure. Make sure you have thick nitrile gloves on. I sceubbed hard to rwmove brake dust with a toothbrush and blue dish scrungy pad. 30-60 seconds. Then I dunked it into my second pan of soapy water. Washed any residual brake cleaner off by hand and with a dust beush with 3 inch firm bristles. Last, I dunked in a pan of clean water. Massaged rhe entive brake caliper clean. Immediately upon removal, I used a MasterVac hot air blower and blew out any water. Got tge caliper 100% dey in all fluid chambers and body. Rwplacing tge fluid seals and duat seals on a mono block caliper sucks. But once you get the hang of it, it is easier. My most efficient means was to put my left index finger in behind the caliper to guide the seals in while my right hand fingers seated the seals in. Some I needed a pick tool to guide stubborn seals in. Once that was completed, I seated tge brake pads in. I had a hard time since I never did this. As I attempted to seat the pads down onto the spring, it kept sliding in on one side. So I used a 6mm hex key behind the brake pad to keep it from shifting in keeping it more in line as I seated the other side. Once the other side was seated into the grove, the hex key comes right out. Now, my big question is... what torque value are YOU using for the bleed valve? My seevice manual has to be incorrect. There is no way I can use 12 foot pounds on an 8mm hollow bleed valve. I will crush the bleeder. But that is what my service manual states. 12 foot pounds for the bleed valve. Banjo is 18 foot pounds. Caliper bolt 26 foot pounds. What should my bleed valve be?
Great vid as always. Can you please make vid about new motorcycle break-in? Thanks
awesome vid!!! could you do a vid on how batteries loose charge over time how to diagnose the problem and how to fix it? (like while sitting in the garage for a week and the battery is completely dead.)
great video, seems ive been doing it wrong with red rubber grease that comes with the seals.. much prefer this
Hello, Could you do a segment on steering headbearings? Tapered vs ball. Thanks Karl Kelley
I found my answer here. Thanks.
Good shit ari
I didn't know Steve Rogers have a youtube channel about bike maintainance, good work Captain America!
Just kidding, ahahahaha! I love your show Ari, but I rarely see maintainance videos for classic bikes and neo retro ones.
Ex. Drum breaks, how to clean, how to replace, how to maintain, etc.
From us in the classice groove of things, we would greatly appreciate to quality videos of it.
Until then, cheers and ride safe!
😂😂
thanks for the tips! I gotta say, I would personally never use steel wool for this, as the grit tends to hide in tight places. You seem very knowledgable, this is just me being picky.
Love your videos Ari! Can I seriously get you some boxes of gloves? I know you love working on bikes but many fluid are carcinogenic
Since we are on brake mind going over the drum brakes too?
Excellent video The only thing I would add, is when cleaning the calipers. Fill a container, like a food storage container (I use the cheap glassware you can get at a dollar store) with alcohol or WD40 or something to help clean them. Brake cleaner tends to evaporate a little fast for me.
Great video Ari but shouldn't you use new crush washers for the banjo bolts when you reassemble I don't know if you mentioned that but I always thought that you were supposed to use new ones ?
My service manual states to replace the banjo bolt washers if removed.
After rebuilding my 05 gsxr 1000 brakes they definitely stopped dragging. Made a massive difference in braking. Just be sure to bleed them properly. Speed bleeders make bleeding much easier
Another great video! Thanks for all the tips. I am particularly curious if you have recommendations for or want to make a video on fuel lines, sizing concerns, how to pick replacements for them, clear lines for flow visibility, adding in-line fuel filters, issues with flow due to restrictions in the line. I did not see a video in the playlist so I thought it pertinent to ask now. Thanks Ari!
Hi Scott, we don't have a vid that addresses that stuff, but you don't want to cheap or out take shortcuts with fuel line. Buy quality fuel-resistant stuff (not hardware store vinyl) and use proper hose or crimp clamps on the connectors. I like braided translucent line like you can get from Motion Pro or Helix Racing. Both companies offer ethanol-resistant line that'll work with today's fuels. Motion Pro also has great crimping pliers and quick-release fuel fittings. I use them on all of my racebikes to make tank/carb removal faster.
Ari Henning Thanks a bunch! Gonna check out the motion pro offerings.
I have niffan calipers. With Brembo Rotors. I really want to upgrade from 2 pistons up front to 4 pistons up front. As well as 1 piston in the rear to 2 pistons. What Brembo Calipers would I need for my 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Naked?..
Haha, same cheap ass pliers i got ! Good job, Sr. ! Centering the caliper on the rotor it's a nice detail but not a MUST. The nature of the caliper/rotor arrangement will put those pistons where they need/want to be. What should never be forgotten it's pump your brakes to check your work and make sure you can stop when you set out for a test ride.
P.S: Nice SuMo KaTooM.
Great idea well done 👍
your videos have safe a lot and make me understand my bike.
I have watch all most your videos 👏👏👏, pls I will like you to make video (how to service throttle body) because I have check almost your videos the similar one is how to service carburetor.
Thanks
Thanks for watching. One of the great things about EFI is that there isn't much needed in the way of regular service. Make sure they butterflies are synched (if you have a multi-cylinder engine) and that's about it. There are things that can go wrong with EFI, like fuel-pump failure, TPS issues, or clogged injectors, but those issues are rare. Regardless, I'll add it to the list. Thanks for the suggestion.
4:12 Not always true, my Kawasaki service manual says to lube the fluid seal (inner one) with PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease (a type of silicone grease). I think any high-temperature, waterproof brake grease will work. I was going to use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Brake Lubricant for my next rebuild.
I LOVE YOU GIYS
Looking like a young, buff Christoph Waltz
Would of replaced the o-ring but this works
I always leave the lines connected, remove pads and Squeeze lever to get those pistons Out 1/2 Inch or less....then disconnect everything, and try channel locks, if it's trouble, I go RIGHT to compressed air. But always take advantage of that hydraulic pressure Early in the game....some older bikes, the pistons get Really stubborn....and that little bit of budge makes them a Thousand times easier to move.
Except in a two to four piston caliper, one or two will come out first leaving no fluid pressure to pop out the rest.
Ha! I’ve seen too many videos. I think I recognize Zack’s bike.
What is the torque value for pinch bolts on ktm 950 sm? The 3 bolts that connect two halfs. Thanks.
I have a 2007cbr600 and my brake caliper pistons aren't retracting. Do you think rebuilding them will help? I got new brake lines and brand new brake fluid in it. Thanks in advance
Who's here after watching a Dave Moss video?
So glad I have this in my tool belt and shocked I didn't know about frozen pistons before
Can I use dielectric grease on slide pins or copper grease ?
can I upgrade a rear drum brake to a rear disc break, it would be so cool if you guys can make a video
Before going straight to a metal pick, try a wittled down popsicle stick or the end of a bent/hooked zip tie to try and get under the seal to lift it out. Much smaller chance of scratching the bore that way.
I use a (sowing) needle to get the seals out. Always use NEW sealing washers. For piston removal I use a bearing puller - works great.
dude plz make a video on engine teardown for duke including engine dismantling from chassis
Important note, on my yamaha fj1200 the service manual says NOT to split the caliper. I don't know about other bikes but checking service information is important
Hi MCG
I have a Bajaj Pulsar 220 with bybre single piston rear caliper . It gets jammed and i have to cool it with water . I replaced the o rings once, but does not seem to solve the problem . Should I try replacing the o ring again or the bybre caliper set..?
Holy smokes, been working on my bikes for so long. I never thought to use vacuum caps
Often I'm away for a few days a week and my bike is parked up outside as i don't have a garage. In the summer it's not a problem, but come the winter with the constant rain and cold my pistons are always ceasing up! It's a real pain!
Is there an easy way to make sure they stay in good condition whilst away without having to remove them?
My cylinder is a bit rusted and get stuck from time to time. Would it be a good idea put some white lithium grease after removing rust to make the cylinder movement easy ?
For calipers with slide pins it's important to never put grease on the tip of the slide pin -> it could drive grease against the dead-end hole and cause a hydraulic lock which would prevent the slide pin from going all the way in, causing brake drag and burning up your pads and rotor. Super common issue when people DIY car brakes!
Just out of curiosity... Brembo do not provide any torque for the bolts holding the halves. It is even recommended to use new ones or is it only for cars? since pre torqued at factory to the elastic limit. What torque did you use?
My brakes were dragging (1990 bike) so I just did the seals. Stressed hard about orientating the piston seal with seal lip on the inside, but couldn't really tell by looking at the seals. I even pulled out one good seal to flip it after I figured I had it the wrong way around. Anyway I completed the job, but still wondered if I had done it right. After a google, it turns out many, if not most, piston seals are simply square and have no raised lip. The wedge type seals are apparently easy to spot.
Are your brakes still dragging? Cause mine are on my R6, did everything besides rebuilding my calipers. So maybe I should....
I have the opposite issue on the SV. Long lever travel due to high piston retraction. Rebuilding the calipers now, hoping that clean pistons and new seals will act better.
PS, it is not air or a leak issue. the brake is firm and will do a stoppie on a dime. It just takes too much initial lever travel to bring the pads to the rotor.
@@randysavage1997 I'm replying 3 years late, but yes, my brakes did return to dragging after a short time. I had to replace the caliper pistons which then fixed everything.
@@VasyaIvanovichPupkin I'd be very surprised if the caliper seals were causing too much retraction? First I've heard of that being a problem.
I know you mentioned air and leaks, but air still trapped somewhere in the system, faulty brake lines (expanding like a balloon somewhere) faulty master cylinder or maybe something wrong with ABS system (if you have ABS) would be my bet before caliper piston seals.
Keep us posted if the caliper piston seals work.
@@SportbikerNZ
Brake is firm once pads contact the rotors. Only excessive lever travel is observed. No other symptoms. (No ABS on the bike)
Air and break lines would result in a squishy brake feel. Symptom is not present or at least is minimal (I do replace the fluid bi-annually so brake bleed was done several times now). Also air in the system or worn master cylinder seals would temporarily result in a higher bite point after pumping the lever. Symptom is not present at all. Also with worn master cylinder, it is possible to experience inconsistent bite point depending on the speed of application. A quick squeeze will result in a high bite point due to the sudden pressure increase expanding the seals in the master. Yet after partial release the lever may sink lower as the fluid is allowed to slip past the seals. This is also not present.
However, visually inspecting, a gap can be seen between the pad an the rotor that is consistent with the dead travel on the lever. It closes and opens as the brake is applied and released. Same can be seen on the floating caliper body. Pushing pistons all the way in and pumping them back to the pads a few times (breaking stiction on the seals and allowing break fluid film to lubricate the surface), decreases the lever travel for a short period of time, presumably until the pad friction material wears off and seals stick to pistons again.
I have just put it all back together with the new seals. With my "inconsistent" measurements using a digital baggage scale, I have conservatively recovered 12mm of lever travel at 11kg of force, and
13mm at 20kg of force. We shall see how long this will last, but the difference is very noticeable.
I should point out that this is unlikely to happen with riders who chew through pads like kids through candy, where seals to not get to sit in one spot on a piston for too long. I mostly commute and use light breaking most of the time and I am sure these were factory seals on a 15 year old bike.
I should probably write this up somewhere. I even half-ass recorded my troubleshooting process. But I am a lazy dickhead. )))
Yo! MC Garage! Where look to purchase brake caliper rebuild kits? Can't seem to find any....
Another ace video, previously I had used red rubber grease to lube the pistons and seals, is this not advisable?
Brake fluid is way better.