At 9:08 is see the bag containing the washer and o-ring for the air/fuel screw. Also the spring was left off that came with the kit. All of the those should be attached before installing the air/fuel screw. With out it the screw is likely to drop out.
Also, like another person mentioned,you completely missed one of the most important parts, that's splitting apart the Midbody and replacing all those gaskets an seals, unless the owner of the bike only ran non-eth gas in it, then those gaskets are probably fried after the 15 or 20 or 22 years some of these carbs have been on the bike
I'm rebuilding my son's 2001 wr250f and bought the mid body kit. The gaskets and everything were shot. Will only be running ethanol free for now on. Ethanol is crap!
I was doing my own carb rebuild on a 04 yfz 450 and i was close to stripping the starter or main jet because it was on really really tight so i said screw it and send it to a moto dealership to let them try to do the rebuild on it. Instead of risking stripping screws i took it to the professionals lol
You actually missed a part. And I’m sure allballsracing didn’t supply the part. It’s an obscure part rarely documented but very crucial and can give you a rich setting. It’s the jet block gasket, there are 4 security screws on the main body when you take off the float bowl. Take those out and the jet block comes out, there is a gasket that separates the main jet from the pilot, thus a source for a rich condition when the gasket wears away. Replace that.
Hey Mike at 11:45 you're putting back the 4 scews around the float bowl. I've done the same after cleaning jets. The 4 screws are all the same length but 2 of the holes seem to have longer distances before the screws grab threads. This makes it where I cannot tighten the screws down fully almost like they are stripped. I even went as far as to purchase 2 new oem screws but they're doing the same thing. Did I strip the screw holes?? Would you recommend me finding longer screws or what? thanks.
If you were to just buy a brand new carb can you just remove the old one and install the new one and be ready to ride or do the jets or anything need to be adjusted?
He mentioned getting a "new carb" off for $120 or so, and just so you know, these are not actual Keihin carbs,which is what the bike comes with, they are Chinese poorly made copies, and 9 times out of ten make the bike run like crap if they even run at all, an actual new Keihin is at least 5 or 6 hundred bucks
Do you know if the plunger on the Hot Start fits thru the Cap at the carburetor? My Cap broke with the threaded portion still in the carb and I can't pull the plunger thru so I can access the threaded part to extract. Thinking I may have to cut the cable
My 2011 yz250f 4 stroke has fuel comming out of the overflow hose , it wont start, with new fuel , oil, and air filter,what do you think cause this to happen ??
take the fuel bowl off run some water where the fuel comes in from the gas tank, check if the float valve needle is sealing when you push it up as if the bowl is full of fuel, if water is coming down theres a o ring shot or your needle is shot
Clock wise in, as in turning the fuel mixture screw tighter makes it richer the more you turn the fuel mixture screw out ,to the left, the more fuel you allow into the carb
sad.... i think you missed to the most common part that gives the carby grief....the part you didnt take off,, the middle section... hence all the other gaskets....
At 9:08 is see the bag containing the washer and o-ring for the air/fuel screw. Also the spring was left off that came with the kit. All of the those should be attached before installing the air/fuel screw. With out it the screw is likely to drop out.
Also, like another person mentioned,you completely missed one of the most important parts, that's splitting apart the Midbody and replacing all those gaskets an seals, unless the owner of the bike only ran non-eth gas in it, then those gaskets are probably fried after the 15 or 20 or 22 years some of these carbs have been on the bike
I'm rebuilding my son's 2001 wr250f and bought the mid body kit. The gaskets and everything were shot. Will only be running ethanol free for now on. Ethanol is crap!
The left over o rings are for the float valve , and the fuel inlet pulls out , the mid body has 4 tiny o rings.
@@LightupRuntz I couldn't remove those tiny Allen head screws. They wouldn't break free without destroying them.
@@mikeshorsepowergarage7577 knock in a torx it worked for me , even got them on a bit of an angle
I was doing my own carb rebuild on a 04 yfz 450 and i was close to stripping the starter or main jet because it was on really really tight so i said screw it and send it to a moto dealership to let them try to do the rebuild on it. Instead of risking stripping screws i took it to the professionals lol
Great video! We appreciate your business.
You actually missed a part. And I’m sure allballsracing didn’t supply the part. It’s an obscure part rarely documented but very crucial and can give you a rich setting. It’s the jet block gasket, there are 4 security screws on the main body when you take off the float bowl. Take those out and the jet block comes out, there is a gasket that separates the main jet from the pilot, thus a source for a rich condition when the gasket wears away. Replace that.
Thanks for the tip.
Hey Mike at 11:45 you're putting back the 4 scews around the float bowl. I've done the same after cleaning jets. The 4 screws are all the same length but 2 of the holes seem to have longer distances before the screws grab threads. This makes it where I cannot tighten the screws down fully almost like they are stripped. I even went as far as to purchase 2 new oem screws but they're doing the same thing. Did I strip the screw holes?? Would you recommend me finding longer screws or what? thanks.
Great video
Thanks for Watching!
If you were to just buy a brand new carb can you just remove the old one and install the new one and be ready to ride or do the jets or anything need to be adjusted?
The only adjustment to be made would be the Air/Fuel mixture at the bottom of the bowl. If needed?
He mentioned getting a "new carb" off for $120 or so, and just so you know, these are not actual Keihin carbs,which is what the bike comes with, they are Chinese poorly made copies, and 9 times out of ten make the bike run like crap if they even run at all, an actual new Keihin is at least 5 or 6 hundred bucks
Do you know if the plunger on the Hot Start fits thru the Cap at the carburetor? My Cap broke with the threaded portion still in the carb and I can't pull the plunger thru so I can access the threaded part to extract. Thinking I may have to cut the cable
My 2011 yz250f 4 stroke has fuel comming out of the overflow hose , it wont start, with new fuel , oil, and air filter,what do you think cause this to happen ??
take the fuel bowl off run some water where the fuel comes in from the gas tank, check if the float valve needle is sealing when you push it up as if the bowl is full of fuel, if water is coming down theres a o ring shot or your needle is shot
Hi, I'm a newbie in motorcycle mechanics and have a doubt. Clockwise in air screw (turn it "in") mean more air or less air / lean or rich?
Clock wise in, as in turning the fuel mixture screw tighter makes it richer the more you turn the fuel mixture screw out ,to the left, the more fuel you allow into the carb
Turning the screw in = Lean. (LESS Fuel)
Turning the screw out = Rich. (MORE Fuel)
So where do all those gadkets go lol. I guess we will never know 😢
Man I did the same thing to my 2003 yz250f and now I can’t get it to start at all
Is it better to just buy a new one?
From what I've told a new factory carb is the way to go for about $500. The cheap copies just don't work right
A how to from sumone...thats never done it.. right...
Right! Just trying to show people that it's not the difficult.
sad.... i think you missed to the most common part that gives the carby grief....the part you didnt take off,, the middle section... hence all the other gaskets....
Don't copy this guy he is missing parts out