Unicomp Model M Keyboard Review!
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- Since my IBM Model M keyboard roundup video, I've had a lot of requests to do a review of Unicomp's modern version of the same keyboard. Here it is! Can a Unicomp Model M really hold up to the feel and quality of the legendary IBMs? What about in comparison to a modern mechanical keyboard? Watch and find out!
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Great review. I really respect you for not bashing Unicomp for the quality issues you dealt with even though you were absolutely entitled to do so. Instead you did the right thing and gave them pointers and advice.
You're right, I'd certainly pay more for a new, properly made Model M.
The ultra classic (the smaller version) has nearly no flex or key wobble. It is made with a much newer mold. I would guess that the original form factor is let down by old molds and a bunch of useless airspace that is hurting rigidity. One thing to note, mine is nov '17 and has 1 part keys. If you aren't buying for pure nostalgia the reduced size, added keys, and 1 part keys shouldn't really matter. It still feels just right. This video would have been more positive If the ultra classic was the keyboard being reviewed.
The ultra classic has windows key unfortunately. That's my one complaint.
@@Squirrelschaser How is it outside of that? I frequently use my windows key since it's easy to quickly search and start programs with Windows 10 this way.
@@tyisafk people hate them for some odd reason.
if it comes anywhere close to that laughably priced kishsaver replica i would never advise anyone to buy it
I can already tell that the build quality has improved since this review, because whilst mine still has some inconsistencies in the keycaps and the same gap in the case, there's less flex, no key wobble, and no creaking noises.
Is yours also a Classic 101 or a New Model M model? I would really like to buy a Classic 101 but would like to have it without the inconsistency’s from the video.
Mine does have creaking but no key inconsistencies, I bought mine at the end of last year. They are supposed to have new tooling now.
I have a UNICOMP Model M from about 5 years ago, with the windows keys and grey plastic case. The keys do not have the "loosey goosey" feel you describe in this video. I wonder if the production lines for the original style Model M without the added features, and the redesigned UNICOMP Model M are actually different, and using different tooling. It's also possible that UNICOMP's tooling has just degraded massively in the last few years.
Compared to my original IBM Model M, and later Lexmark Model M, It's almost indistinguishable in typing feel/build quality to the later Lexmark produced Keyboard. My older Model M from 1982 has a rather worn out feel, as it's been heavily used, but still nothing like you describe here.
That date code sticker is also interesting, I think I might pull mine apart and see what the stickers say.
Mine are all definitely distinguishable from each other. I've owned several more Model M's over the years but the two IBM's I show in this video are the best ones, and the ones I've kept to use. My 1996 Lexmark is the one I'm using most to compare to the Unicomp both because the Unicomp is based on that exact keyboard, and because they're the two Model M's I've ever bought new. My Lexmark still feels as good as it did back then, and it definitely feels better than the Unicomp. My 1985 IBM has even tighter keys but it has a little grittiness that's probably from embedded dirt/dust that I can't get rid of.
The Model M wasn't actually produced until 1985 (the copyright is 1984 but none were made that year), so the earliest your older Model M could be is from that year.
Modern Classic I've seen other unicomp reviews and the keys didn't look wonky as yours and also it looked beated up (maybe the reason of the warp)... Since they have a "repair" service, I wonder if they are using returned keyboards for building "new" ones. That date code could be an hint for old stock parts or salvaged parts from the repair service. Since the state at delivery maybe a better idea was to send it back for the warranty, the defect was pretty evident and nasty.
EDIT: mmh the absence of the unicomp logo hints to a custom one, what if it is an old refurbished return of a custom made a while ago?
+Modern Classic, I too have one from 2013 and one from 2015 and neither are like what you experienced. They are not loose and the case does not creak like yours does. Mine are all tight and make no more noise then a Model M. I wonder if yours has a manufacturing defect or quality control issue? I would give them a call. It is odd to me that your keys were all popped off too. Neither of mine, shipping to California, had this issue, they were perfect out of the box. Of course if mine had been like yours with dirt to boot, I would have absolutely called to get an explanation. For this kind of money there really isn't an excuse for this. Anyway, enjoyed your video!
+Modern Classic +16-Bit TechGuy, I completely agree. Unicomp has great customer service, and you should definitely call them.
Awesome review, thanks!
that was the mechanical kind of keyboard i was typing in when programming my pc-xt back in 1988 :-) LOUD, but i was used to it this way. Besides, everyone else was using similar keyboards.
Nice review! Thanks. I have an old IBM Model M I would like to put to use. What PS/2 to USB converter would you recomment for just this keyboard?
Very nice and detailed video!
do you think it is possible to install a unicomp controller inside a lexmark keyboard?
I hav noticed in you video that the uncomp controller is on the right side while lexmark keyboards have their controller on top of the matrix sheet.
I am asking because I have a lexmark with a dead controller so I was thinking of ordering a controller and cable from unicomp to install inside my lexmark.
do you think this will work ?
I purchased a black 101-key Unicomp back in 2013. The back label indicates it was manufactured in 2012. It admittedly has some slight cosmetic imperfections but they keys and the care are pretty solid. When I opened it up all the keys are in place. It doesn't flex or creak at all.
Thanks, great review it’s helped a lot!
The Unicomp Model M keyboard is a gateway keyboard. It was my first mechanical keyboard. I love it. I first bought the same one as the one you show here, in June 2017. Except it's the 103 key layout (includes Windows key). I had a loose key or two in shipping, easily popped back on. But mine isn't nearly as loosey-goosey as yours, it's fairly tight, and arrived in new cleanness.. But once you get one (after being annoyed by rubber dome keyboards for years) you will become keyboard-curious. Then you'll get a keyboard with Cherry MX switches. Probably blue to start. Maybe brown. Then you'll go and try keyboards with Matias switches, maybe Topre.
I now have about 6 mechanical keyboards in my collection, and I like each for different reasons, but an MX Brown is my daily driver (I'm a typist, not a gamer, so lack of back-lighting and n-key rollover doesn't matter to me, the M is just a little louder than others).
I'm now looking forward to adding a Matias "clicky" switch keyboard in my future (maybe a KB Paradise with Dolch keycaps). I absolutely don't regret buying my Unicomp Model M, not one bit. It was a bargain to find something 'new retro' that feels so good to type on.
But, Modern Classic, I agree, in hindsight, ultimately I would have gladly paid more for it if it had a thicker metal base plate and if the case shell wasn't as creeky. The missing media keys are just a slight convenience to have.
$129 USD seems to be an average price point for modern mechanical keyboards, maybe Unicomp could up the price by about 50%, increase the materials quality, and still have it be a good buy.
I'm on my third mechanical keyboard, a gaming keyboard with Cherry MX Red. It is my favorite so far for its very smooth key motion, but it does sometimes annoy me by too easily allowing a key to be pressed when I'm just resting my hands on the keyboard. I've ended up with an accidental lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll more times than I should, and that has only been an issue on this keyboard. The Cherry MX Brown is resistant enough to avoid that, but I had those switches in a keyboard that is beginning to wear, in that the key caps are painted and that paint is coming off in places. That's a Feenix Autore keyboard. My first mechanical was a Razer, which is very clicky, and I found that a bit annoying. Still, I am considering finally giving a Unicomp keyboard a try. Came here to see what a review had to say. Looks like I'll have to check out other reviews to see if others have had more luck in terms of quality before I make a decision.
Cherry switches are horrible compared to Matias switches. Alps SKCM Blue switches are my personal favorite. They're close to Matias but smoother and not as high-pitched. I suggest getting something like a KBParadise V60 Mini with Alps Blue switches in it instead, if you are considering getting a Matias board. They're reproduction switches but they're pretty much identical to the old ones, just a little stiffer because they aren't 30 years old.
the model m is a membrane keyboard
If I was going to search for an original model m what year and what serial number or other items should I check on to make sure it was designed in the USA? Any other particularities to look for so I don’t buy one that’s in terrible shape. Lastly is it true that there are individuals, as well as Unicomp, that can replace parts of the buckling springs if need be? Who would you recommend if work needed to be done to it? Thanks for the help!
the best way I can describe the feeling of a model m is this: it feels like you are typing on a solid piece of metal and concrete.
Have you posted your bolt mod video yet?
While I agree that buckling springs have a smoother feel, what are your views on other mechanical switches? For instance, I dumpster dove a Dell AT01 keyboard a while back, which uses ALPS SKCM salmon switches, and I was amazed how good they felt to type on. While it doesn't hold up to a model M, in my opinion they're not far off in terms of typing comfort.
I've heard Blue Alps switches are the best mechanical switches you can find on a board.
I have one of those Dells that I also picked from the trash lol. It is my daily driver keyboard on my main computer. I rather enjoy typing on that keyboard.
I had an NMB Right Touch 101 keyboard back in the early 90's that had some kind of ALPS switch. They were nice, from what I remember, but not nicer than the Outemu switches in my current Motospeed. They also wore *really* poorly; after only about 3-4 years the keyboard was totally worn out. It was hell to type on at that point. I'm a pretty heavy typist but my Lexmark Model M has lasted me almost 20 years now. (I bought it as new old stock in 1998.)
I salvaged orange switches out of an Apple M0115 keyboard for use in a new keyboard, and it is by far my favorite tactile keyboard I own, and I own a lot. Sex for the fingers.
+Mr Objection Zealios switches and those based on it (otuemu purple), are very good tactile switches, but not as good as alps orange or even salmon.
alps black suck so be happy you don't have the 101w
orange ALPS and early white ALPS are good, I doubt you can get blue ALPS
they wear due to having low dust protection but you can make the switches last through maintenance. I know Model Ms sometimes need to be bolt modded to get back it's feel and function.
I say this as a user of an omnikey, which is basically the equivalent in build quality almost of 85 ibm minus the keycaps (both back panel and backplate and weighs almost as much too). I have many other keyboards with ALPS as well.
I just got my Unicomp board in the mail today, and I've had zero issues with keycaps popping off during shipping, nor did it have any dirt. I did buy the Ultra Classic however, and in a UK layout, via The Keyboard Company based in England. I can't see any real defects or issues with mine, and the key feel is just as good as the old Model M that I had. I've got zero complaints, and it's definitely worth the price.
Will you make bolt mod video after a year?
Good video! Considering a new one!
Fast forward to Feb 2019, and Unicomp finally decides to raise the base price from $84 to 87... right on the same week I finally decided to bite the bullet and order one (it was literally $84 one day and then 87 the next). My unit was built April 2018, so thanks for making me spend 3 extra dollars even for stock they had for nearly a year before raising the price lol. That said, my Unicomp has all single piece keycaps, but all of them feel fine in terms of wobble and are all perfectly consistent in size. There is some scratchiness to the key feel if you press some of the keys off-center, but this is a complete non-issue when actually typing normally. Overall, it does look as if they improved on a lot of what you complained about, so I'm impressed that they felt these improvements were only worth 3 more dollars a pop, and held to the original $84 price for as long as they did after making these changes.
Look at the price now..
@@computeraidedworld1148 it's into the 90s. Still a bargain imo
@@ellenorbjornsdottir1166 Well, it's getting to the point where you can just buy a old fashion home grown IBM model M for about the same price, but then theres also the USB mod Unicomp did
@@computeraidedworld1148
Sadly its really just adjusting for inflation. Thats how bad it's gotten.
@@user-xg8yy7yl1d what do you mean, inflation has changed that much in a few years?
terrific review.
Thanks for the video.
I have just ordered a Classic with the 102-Swedish layout. It will be interesting to see if the "problems" have gotten better or worse since your video.
If they are there, hopefully i can overlook them.
I wonder if the slight inconsistencies may come from that it isn't exactly the same type of plastic used now as before. Maybe due to some environmental regulation?
Love the “Get Smart” reference
And left shift is about a third of the right one, so there is room for the < > key between left shift and Z key.
Whiten Model M
I think my IBM (blue logo) model is a bit yellowish. Does anyone know if this can be made whiter (fresher) with something like retrobright?
i was driving down my street the other day , and out of the corner of my eye i saw a yellowish keyboard.. Ive been wanting a model m in my life for awhile so have been keeping my eye out.. needless to say, i found a lexmark one, missing a single keycap, in almost perfect condition.. cleaned it out, and got rid of a bit of the yellowish tint, an im in love.. kicks the crap out of every mechanical keyboard ive used before
Nice video, and even back in the day I thought these where too loud, so I'll stick to my Gateron blues which while loud are not near as loud, and can be had for tenkeyless version for less then $30
Hi, I got one spanish model M with the enter key (not the one in the numeric pad but below backspace key) taking 2 rows so it is just under the backspace key, maybe someone knows the reason, total number of keys are 102 and the ps/2 connector cable can be unplugged from the back so I guess is from 1987.
I bought Unicomp classic recently (march 2018) , and thankfully it has pretty much no issues that you mention in your review, no gaps no crazy case flex, and the keys feel great It is 103 key, not 101 though
I've had my Unicomp for a couple of years and am overall pleased. I used the old Type F and M keyboards and their IBM dumb terminal predecessors back when new so I have a frame of reference.
I can’t seem to find the Unicomp model m anywhere, was it renamed? Or is it not for sale anymore, if anyone can find the model m for sale can you please link it?
Nevermind their webpage was just confusing me
12:41 LOL. That's an original 1995 IBM Model M backplate that they reused in order to make your keyboard. Hey, at least they're tech recycling, am I right? As far as additional funding for new tooling goes, apparently they leased half of their Lexmark keyboard factory to a company called "Lexel Imaging Systems, Inc." This has allowed them to make entirely new tooling which is currently being used to make their "New Model M" and their new Mini M tenkeyless boards. And according to LGR (who reviewed their new Mini M keyboard), the new tooling makes all the difference! The quality of their new keyboards is substantially better than the keyboards made with their old tooling. If you haven't already, I highly suggest you check out their New Model M. It just might address all of the concerns you had in this video.
Hey, I just bought a Unicomp classic and a great many of these criticisms aren't present on my 3/2019 built model. There's no grittiness, the keys are tighter, and there's no creaking whatsoever. So they've clearly made some improvements, in case anyone is curious. Also I game on my Unicomp and don't have any issues with my keystrokes not registering due to 2KRO. It's honestly a great keyboard, maybe not the absolute best. I do love the feel of my switches over the cherry blues.
I got the same exact keyboard, and while mine isn't too bad in terms of creakiness/dirtiness, the keys certainly have the same "loosey goosey" feel. A shame too, because otherwise I'm quite pleased with it. To be honest though, in my opinion at least $84.00 beats having to spend ~$100.00 on a used Model M on eBay whose history you don't know (did it belong to a criminal, how much dried up bodily fluids are in it, etc.) and spending additional money on equipment to bolt mod it, all while risking permanent damage in the process. Otherwise a fair review, kudos for not ripping on Unicomp even though you were well within your rights to do so.
Also 666th like, lol
I really wanted to give them a better review. Hopefully reviews like mine (I don't pretend to have much sway, but there are other similar reviews out there) have helped them improve a bit. Some others since this review have said their boards felt a little tighter overall. And against most modern keyboards, even mine was really good. I just felt like I had to compare them not just against other modern keyboards but also against the original Model M, since they're still specifically using that model name, and in that case at least my Unicomp was not really comparable. But I fully acknowledge that someone could still be happy with one, and they may have improved even more since my review.
I bought my Unicomp Model M in 2011 and am still using it today with no issues. I'd get another one if need be.
I have the Unicomp M5 5 volt from 2005 / black with cream grey keys, I love it!!!
When I got my Ultra Classic in October 2018 nothing got dislodged. It has some of the grittiness described here and the P key doesn't always respond but I love it. I heard they updated their tooling but I could be wrong.
I want this keyboard.. Please where can I get? Please share link please
I ordered their Ultra Classic white USB. That's the smaller model, with the larger one being just the Classic. I like it! Great experience for the price, especially compared to other mechanical keyboards.
Agree 100% with your conclusions, I have two of the newer Unicomp keyboards and I love them, they should charge more and fix their tooling.
Are you selling any Model M keyboards, right now?
Thank you.
This is, hands down, the best Unicomp Model M review I have seen here on CZcams, or even on the web, for that matter. I have had four Unicomps (two Classic and two Ultimate models), bought around the same time period in about 2014, and they have all been thrown away now. Every one of them had nearly half the plastic rivets, traditionally a weak point on Model M's, harden and pop off, and one keyboard became unusable because either the controller or PC traces became flaky, leading to unreliable operation on several keys. A couple of the Unicomps only lasted a bit over the warranty period before losing their rivets. For most of their short life, these keyboards sat in a room-temperature closet, unused, so they were not exactly mistreated. After breaking loose, I could hear the rivets rattling around in the bottom of the cases, and the keys got very mushy-feeling, some even inoperative. Since the keyboards were all out of warranty, Unicomp offered to fix them, but for a not-inconsequential shop fee, and of course, a shipping charge to get them back to them. So I simply threw them all away and bought real Model M's (one of them bolt-modded) off eBay. They were around the same price as the Unicomps sell for new. I agree with you, if you want the original feel and quality, just buy a clean, real Model M for about the same price and get a PS/2 to USB converter for $5-7. A bolt-modded Model M sells on eBay for not too much more than a Unicomp and should have none of the popped rivet problems, ever. And yes, there were odd inconsistencies on my Unicomps, such as printing on some rows being slightly too high, in some cases bordering on being off the top of the key. I also want Unicomp to succeed, since they are an American company, but honestly, they have some work to do to get to a desired quality level. I agree, if they can improve their tooling and QC, a somewhat higher price may be justified. Otherwise, I cannot justify buying another one, especially after seeing your review on a unit that is a few years newer than mine were.
I don’t know if they’ve tightened things up since your review but all the keys on my new Unicomp M are solid and even.
I'm curious to if it got any better as it had some build up inside... being all lose and what not out the box.
I bought one of these just a couple of weeks ago. As-said in this video it's obviously not perfect but I still love it a lot. Great typing feel and sounds.
Also noticed I think Unicomp might have taken some of these criticisms into account since this video, mine came in without any dirt that I could see, the keys feel pretty-rigid and don't seem to have inconsistent key heights as shown in the video, though I may just not be noticing.
does this have n key roll over?
If I wasn't already, I'd subscribe for the Get Smart clip. Nice video
Can anyone recommend a PS/2 to USB adapter that works great with the original 1980's type M ?
I picked up a Unicomp; it is amazing - better than probably any keyboard I could buy at the local comp shop; being USB is handy. I also like some of the minor modern flourishes they offer such as keyboard and keycap colours .. I've got a black base keyb, with a nice assortment of grey and white keys. It is very striking, and types very very well. Its a lighter model, and I don't see the keys wiggling so much as you point out (but it _is_ there.. hadn't noticed :) .. mine has the goofy blue logo, which I'm definately not a fan of.
So, I'd say .. yes, I'd clearly recommend a Unicomp -- they are readily available, not that expensive (boutique keyboards are very expensive, so this compares favourably), plug and play, solid keyboards, that call back to the grand keyboard of old. If you can find a model M original keyb, they tend to be expensive or beat to hell .. mind you, the chase is half the game. But if you're not in the mood to spend a lot, or spend a lot of time tracking something down, and possibly a clean up job, and needing a connector adapter to USB etc .. Unicomp is the way to go.
Love mine. I am tempted to pick up another to lug to work, and see how much my cow-orkers can stand :)
My Unicomp ultraclassic from 2014 doesn't have nearly as wobbly keys and the heights are all uniform.
The case is certainly creeky and the overall finish is a bit rough but it seems to be much better than what you received.
I wonder if their machining has worn out just that much more in 3 years or if maybe it's just the model that you purchased.
My experience has been similar.
Can anyone tell me how many simultaneous key presses the Unicomp Model M registers at the same time? I was thinking of using one for gaming.
It has 2KRO.
About the typing; my mother was a professional typist when she worked at Nabob on a typewriter. Mechanical typewriters can't be typed on the way that computer keyboards can be typed on, because you have to push the key real far in order to make the letter arm hit the paper through the ink tape. She still can type blindingly fast, which helps her in her job as a nursing unit clerk.
I can't speak for the modern unicomp keyboards as I have never used one, but I have an old Lexmark made model M which is actually branded as Ambra (which was a name owned by IBM used on their "cheap" consumer PCs of the time). I had an issue with random keys registering as different keys, or registering as multiple keystrokes, and I decided to send it in to Unicomp to see how their repair service works. It was a great experience, they were helpful and communicated well. It took a while to ship the keyboard there and back, but once they got it they really had it fixed and back on the way to me in a hurry. The only thing I wish they did was include something that said what they actually did. I know they replaced the cable as that was in sort of bad condition, but other than that I have no idea. When I opened the keyboard up, they didn't entirely replace everything like I was sort of expecting, but the keyboard does feel different to type on (less warn out), so I am not too sure.
What’s better, an Old rubber dome keyboard or a modern cherry mechanical keyboard?
I have a Unicomp Classic 10-key USB keyboard and I absolutely LOVE it! I never had a Model M but I did have an original IBM PC with a Model F keyboard and I feel like the little boy I was whenever I'm on it. I actually use it at work because I use a Logitech Wireless at home and don't type as much. My home build is mostly for gaming and I use a gamepad for that. The ever so slight possible differences between how my Unicomp Model M feels and how an IBM Model M feels are insignifcant to me because to me, it feels exactly the sameasI remember my old 84-key Model F and that's more than good enough for me, especially since it uses a USB connection. If you want that amazing old-school IBM feel, you can't go wrong with a Unicomp model.
I think that maybe you got a bad one because my keys aren't loose, don't move and the whole construction is rock-solid. Oddly enough, my board was bought about 1.5 years ago but was made in 2016.
Well shit. What is a solid mechanical keyboard without key wobble? Any recommendations?
its not mechanical its membrane the buckling spring moves a membrane
Out of the four Model Ms that I have, one of them is a Unicomp. It is however one of my favorites as it is the Kentucky Wildcats edition of the keyboard. BBN!
Would be excellent if you could make the bolt mod video. There's a deffinate lack of a clear, well presented instructional video on how to do this cleanly and without too much risk.
Nice review. I think the takeaway is it’s still the best NEW keyboard you can buy. So if you are ordering them at work (I have 4), you don’t have to resort to eBay.
Totally agree on the typing. I’m a rapid hunt n’ peck, but I learned as a kid programming my C64. Old habits can’t be broken.
Despite unicomp's flaws, it's still better than any 🍒 MX clone on the market. I wish more companies made buckling spring keyboards.
Hang on; they have keyboards made in the U.S.A.? If my keyboard from my previous computer hadn't held up so well and if I didn't have another keyboard packed in with my new computer, I would probably get one of those for sure. I want to keep Americans (and other Westerners) working. They really ought to get some new tooling, though.
Seeing that mouse indicator light on the upper right it automatically conjures images of mice connecting t o the keyboard directly via PS2 in those days.
I personally use a model F XT I since i got it my razer MX Blye keyboard is accumulating dust
I got an Endurapro just last week & have not noticed almost any of your issues.
the keys don't move much off center, the whole unit does not creak like yours did.
But I don't have any old model M's to compare with.
I'm loving the sound. It's not really a click like people have described, there's a slight bell-like ring to it.
I had my Unicomp for about a month now and I love it. The only gripe that might be a deal breaker for some is the cheap plastic that was mentioned. I never owned a Lexmark or IBM so I do like the feel of the buckling springs. One day I might buy one but for now I like this keyboard. Also I have the Unicomp logo but I have the black version so I think the dark purple logo goes well with the black casing.
Good luck, the ibm model ms are quite rare and expensive. It's better off to get a model F repro instead.
@@MitchellJBridges Funny enough, a couple years after this comment I bought a Model F AT for a great bargain, I love it.
Parece un teclado alternativo al teclado de IBM. Seran tas buenos como los IBM?
Anti-ghosting keys perchance?
Wow I just found my 2012 model M keyboard. It does not flex that much and the keys don't move that much either. interesting, wonder if they've been slightly cost cutting here and there. The keys never popped out upon arrival and I never had a sheet saying it was normal and could be popped back in.
Waiting for mine to come in. I hope its not too bad. Might order an old one. I will always fee something is missing with the unicomp if i dont get an old one.
I want to thank you for this review, I recently bought myself a Unicom PCC 122 battle cruiser. It’s a fantastic keyboard, far superior to any modern keyboards I’ve used (including a rather expensive mechanical gaming keyboard).
I would like to get a PC 122, I bought the classic model M with the super keys. It is also a Dvorak layout with firmware.
I just found two IBM model M keyboards in the trash. According to your video, I did well to take them home. Relaxation awaits me while cleaning and testing..
I"ve been searching for a good keyboard ever since I got fed up with the modern ones with the flat chicklet keys that got smaller and lower and smaller and lower. I returned a new 17" laptop with the tiniest, flattest keyboard I'd ever seen. I wanted the keyboards that I used to type on years ago (I"m a writer) and they are thin on the ground. Then I discovered gaming keyboards. I have also started gaming - an amateur still - so I am looking for a good keyboard for both purposes. Thanks for your informative review.
My Unicomp keyboard was made in 2005. No key wobble or twist like you have and it is still chugging along like a champ. Keys look great, nothing had gone wrong, the only wear you can tell is where on the case and space bar I have wore the plastic smooth with my hands (I type A LOT on this keyboard). I think you somehow got a reject keyboard.
I have bought a 2007 unicomp, a 2016 unicomp and a classic 1993 keyboard I will be interested to compare them.
Sad to see the quality on these dropping. I have a Unicomp classic, and it's lovely. It's not quite early model M feel, but it's end of life model M. I did have a slightly off right shift button which doesn't quite work perfectly. I guess the tooling is just getting so worn. Really hope they can fix it up and get back to making real quality boards again, even if the price has to go up to do so.
There's also a company doing a limited batch of Model F keyboards like others have said, I wonder how their quality is like especially since they're charging over 300 bucks for them.
(modelfkeyboards.com is the website if anyone was curious)
I've seen that site... would also love to try one but as you say they're super-expensive, so I'd probably need a loaner. I'd also need to buy a real Model F for comparison, since it's been a while since I last used one.
I have one original Model M and two black Model M13 (I think that's the model), has a track point built in and two PS/2 connectors on the end of the cable. They're massively noisy...but it's just got the right feel.
I just purchased the model M Ultra Classic a couple of weeks ago, and have seen none of the issues you highlight in this video. The case is well made, it arrived in perfect condition, and the key wobble is on par with my other more modern keyboards.
I've seen others say the same recently. It's possible they've improved, but I do wonder if you have an original Model M to compare it to. I'm just looking for data points on this.
@@ModernClassic I don't, but if you would like to donate one to me I would be happy to do a comparison :-). My wife has nixed any more purchases for now ( I have a PC 122 from Unicomp coming today to add to the collection (Wooting, Filco, Kinesis, ...). Yes, I have an addiction.
*EDIT: The Key Rollover apparently isn't really much of an issue at all. :)*
The biggest downside of Model M keyboards (IMO) is their 2 key rollover, which can make them unsuited for gaming. If Unicomp could modify the design to allow for either 6 key or even N-Key rollover, they'd be far more appealing to the gaming crowd.
Also, they *really* need to make a dampened soft-touch model as well (which involves greasing the buckling springs). I'm very surprised they haven't done this yet.
The Model F has full NKRO, and I've heard some people say that it feels better due to the lack of membrane and there being much more metal
Unfortunately the Model F has a pretty funky layout compared to the Model M. I don't think I could get used to it :(
I use my Model M's for gaming all the time and have for decades. Maybe I just don't play games that require that many simultaneous keypresses, I dunno. But 2 key rollover doesn't mean only 2 keys work at a time - it means a *minimum* of 2 keys work at a time. In most cases, 3, 4 or even more keys will register depending on the combination. So it's actually a rare case when you'd need to use a multi-key combo that the original Model M wouldn't support. For example, IIRC all modifier keys will give you at least that key *plus* 2 extra keys, and in most cases more than that.
Interesting, I didn't realize that. So you've never encountered any key conflicts in FPS games where you may be required to hold Shift, 2 direction keys (WASD), and the space bar for jumping all at the same time?
Well you could still get the PS/2 Model M from Unicomp. I'm using the USB model and I can usually hit four keys simultaneously. I do plan on getting a USB to PS/2 adapter and see if this keyboard outputs a PS/2 signal.
I really want a TKL Model M keyboard, but no-one has any in stock.
the Endurapro's design differs quite a bit from your teardown - this is held together with a hex socket screw (not recessed), not a screw.
Build quality on mine isn't much good. After light use some keys stopped working. I traced the fault to the ribbon cable beneath the caps and num lock lights where a small circuit board is pressed onto the cable which is held in place by two screws. Every time I fix it, it lasts for a couple of months before I have to open it up again and reseat the board on the ribbon. It is infuriating!
Any updates? Has Unicomp improved anything? The new Model M is $104 so the price has gone up a little.
I have a 2023 unicomp m at work. (ADA ergonomic board accommodation). I agree. Doesn't hold a candle to my 1986 m, let alone my f122. It's a labor of love, but they desperately need to retool the original m as well.
There's no key wobble on mine, maybe they fixed that since this review
I watched this video, which was really well done, right after I placed my order on this keyboard and it had me worried that I made a mistake. I'm happy to report that since this video, it appears that Unicomp may have taken the concerns you brought up to heart and made some improvements. My keys have none of the looseness that you described and it arrived with all the keycaps in place.
when he cut the box open towards his fucking wrist i almost screamed lol and then said be careful around knives children LOOOOOOOOL
It's easy to restore a Model M from that grittiness:
1.) Remove all the keys.
2.) Air spray out the grime all around, use tech/dust putty to remove the grit all around, chopstick with shop towel and alcohol to clean up the hard to remove sticky stuffs.
3.) Spray Deoxit Contact Cleaner onto the springs and keyboard membrane to clean and lube any dirty and rusting contacts.
How do you like Cherry MX brown keys? Would you use them every day?
I don't like browns, I like blues! I used Cherry blues every day for a number of years, but at the moment I'm using Outemu blues because I actually like them better.
Thanks for your reply! I thought you were using a Model M as your daily ;-)
I am currently using the (rather expensive) "DasKeyboard 4 Professional" which has MX Brown (though Blues are available too). I really like the amazing build quality and the integrated USB hub and media controls. I never tried the Model M, or buckling spring keys in general, so I was curious how they compare. :-)
I switch off. I have both a Model M (1 of 2 of them) and my Motospeed connected at all times.
The Das Keyboard I've heard is built well, but haven't tried it. I'm not the biggest fan of Cherry switches these days, though - but if you like browns, you probably wouldn't like a clicky buckling spring.
Can't Stand Blue's Myself. They are way too loud. If you like Model M's Maybe Cherry Green's are more your Thing?
I use Browns, but plan on getting clears at some point.
I would go Red's Black's before I go Blue or Green. Pretty pretty much any task.
I would get a Unicomp if I were in the market for a mechanical keyboard. Right now I am happy with my Bastron Glass keyboard.
I'd still like to have a modern day Model M from Unicomp (including the new keys introduced in Windows 95) but in the German QWERTZ mapping. It's very cost prohibitive to get that from Germany though.
I have a few model M's and 2 Unicomps I didn't find them that bad.
I would say you want it to just work get a unicomp. You don't mind the bolt mod get a model M.
One of my Unicomp's is "broken" it's key cap issue so my plan is to get a donor model to strip the case and keycap and swap them across.
Be very careful removing the key caps it's easy to break them but 3 of mine went down the sink.
I first started typing on a model M in the 1990s as it came with the IBM PS/2 65SX computer I had then. Later on I also got a model M5-1 (same keyboard except with a trackball near the arrow keys). Unfortunately after almost 20 years of daily use (such that I've outright worn out lesser keyboards in less than a year) certain keys stopped working. After that I had the model M keyboards stored away for a while but then threw them out after moving. I've come to regret that. I really wish that I had tried to see if it was possible to fix them. Modern "mechanical" keyboards simply aren't good enough and though I've been very tempted I've held off on buying Unicomp due to reports of quality issues. If Unicomp sorted itself out I'd easily pay twice the current price for a quality replica of the model M. It would be worth it.
So basically Unicomp, make Model M great again
Unicomp seems to almost be somewhat of a contractor at least in their mentality and in fact I think they do make keyboards by contract for General Electric apparently as well as replacement parts for legacy systems. In fact this makes absolute sense considering that they are all former workers who built boards under order from lexmark when lexmark got the rights from IBM. I find it really helps if you give them specific instructions for things. For example if you live far away from them where shipping could involve any combination of planes trains and automobiles it is a good idea to basically double pack the board. I gave them some packing instructions involving packing the box in a second slightly larger box surrounded by foam chips and they were happy to oblige following the instructions to the absolute T with no extra charge.
Buying from unicomp is more like ordering a custom manufacturing job rather than buying a standard product from a retailer and this is really their strength. You can give them a complete set of instructions on what you want and they will make a board to order if desired with any layout you want as long as its within what they can physically make. You can even get them to send out just a circuit board with nothing on it if you already have a case and keycaps.
Their real weakness is that they indeed have to work with tooling that has been used for a long time. They have clearly been making repairs and upgrades where possible but the tooling they have was top of the line in its day and the cost of making such tooling is expensive because manufacturing tooling by and large is expensive by nature. Even for very large corporations who own their own machine and fabrication shops which IBM likely did back in the day a change in tooling is a very serious investment decision. You by and large cant order this stuff off the shelf youd have to track down a third party company specializing in fabricating custom one off machines which involves a lot of by hand metal fabrication.
For a company that makes everything in house without having the backing of some big company like IBM behind it and thus must rely on old albeit well built tooling they do a really good job especially since quality seems to be rising and they seem to be far from being in danger of going out of business. I just got a board from them this year and there is zero inconsistency with the keycap height and the only inconsistencies are with the esc key being a bit off center in its hole and a bit of swirling in the plastic where the plastic was injected into the mould which is only visible on the bottom if you flip it over and hold it up to the light and I dont really care about it because of that. The keycaps can move back and forth a bit if you grab them from the sides and twist them around but less so than many newer mechanical switches and there is very very little side to side movement if you push them around from the top. Also no feel of grittiness or binding if you push a key off center. Admittedly this is one of their "New Ms" not the one that is made exactly like the original but really everything is laid out and shaped the same except for the bit of length at the back beyond the function keys.
Same here about the typing, I use less than six fingers total and type over 100wpm. Self taught before high school typing class, got into arguments with teacher since I could type faster/more accurately and *not* use the guide keys, without looking.
I also have been using a Unicomp Classi 105 with Italian layout for the last 3-4 years now, and i can agree on pretty much everything: the keyboard is nice, hefty, IT WILL NOT MOVE, but the keys are loose, the plastic chassis creaks like an old boat, is lighter weight, the letter printing is "fuzzy", but overall i enjoy typing on it (a bit less my friends while on voice chat).
One thing i can say for sure is that lots of the key play is caused by the black plastic shield more than anything. I own a Bull Questar Terminal keyboard, which has the Model M shape and size but uses Model F internals, and if i swap the key stems from the Unicomp to the Bull Questar, they don't feel any looser than the originals, but on the opposite (Bull Questar stems to Unicomp), they are still very loose.
My keyboards (as the first one with the PS/2 controller didn't really want to work fully), none of them have a warped chassis.
Overall, my vote: 8/10, would stop home invasion with and keep my parents awake at night.
I've edited this from my original comment, in which I was definitely visualizing things wrong. It makes sense if the barrels have gotten *bigger* over the years - that would fit in with the tooling wearing out, and it would mean there's more play between the key stem and the side of the barrels in the front plate.
It's been a while since this video now but I think my biggest disappointment was really how cheap and flexible the case felt. They definitely seem to be using thin ABS plastic now instead of the thick PVC that IBM and Lexmark used. If the case were just more like the originals, I probably could more easily overlook the looser keys.
I can't say I remember the exact feel of using a Model M keyboard. Last time I used was probably well over 20 years, perhaps 30. I wasn't paying much attention to keyboards at the time.
I remember liking them, but that's about it.
I do remember though that circa 1984-6 I was also using a keyboard from a brand of IBM compatible PC known as Multitech and that keyboard being clickier(?) and enjoyed typing on it even more.
No idea what it was.
I have used many keyboards over the last 35 or so years and I found, at least for mechanical switches keyboards, most of them such at one department. Longevity. I rarely had a keyboard last even one year of usage. Apart from two in the last 20 years. The first was a Logitech keyboard, non mechanical switches, the G15 model, which lasted IIRC about 18 months.
The only second which lasted more was my current keyboard which I use for the last 2-3 years. The CM Storm Ultimate Quick Fire. I freaking love this keyboard. As far as I know it uses Cherry MX Blue.I am not a huge fan of the loud noise but I love the feeling of it. Plus it does feel like it is build like a tank.
One day I will get an IBM Model M, more out of curiosity to see if I remember the feeling or not.
I had an NMB Right Touch keyboard shortly after I got my first PC clone in 1993. It felt great at first but wore out really quickly - within 5 years or so, it felt like typing on a plate of tic tacs. I have a feeling that many, if not most, standard microswitches are very prone to fine particle dust inside the switch, and that the constant rubbing only generates more of that. I know most are rated to 50 million keypresses or whatever, but that's just how long they're supposed to technically work, not how long they're supposed to *feel* nice.
IBM's buckling spring mechanism is very different from other microswitches and may not be quite as prone to a degraded feel over time. I did own one that was really bad, though, so they can get there too if mistreated. But the ones I currently own all feel great, and a few of them (including my original PC's Model F) are more than 30 years old.
Well, then I definitely have to try them one day again. :) Thanks for your reply.
Is it possible that this keyboard or some of it's parts aren't new, but just refurbished?
I suppose it is possible, but it wouldn't be very ethical. The back plate I have a feeling really is new old stock, though. They may still have half a warehouse full of back plates from the Lexmark days. They bought the whole kit and kaboodle at that time, including whatever keyboards and parts Lexmark had lying around that were covered under the buckling spring rights transfer.
[08/29/20] Considering the circumstances given, it was a balanced review. After reading, and viewing various reviews from different timeframes; there seems to be painted a picture of inconsistency from Unicomp. Some Unicomps are flawless, and some much less so.
Some online sellers of genuine Model Ms are asking for outrageous amounts. What is the recommended price range to pay online for a used Model M (85 -91)? A used Lexmark Model M (91-96), and finally, if one can find it; a new, unused Model M? Thanks...👍👍👍
I didn’t know people hated the windows key. I use it all the time