Hyundai / Kia 2.4L GDI Engine - How To Oil Pump Refurbish & Clean
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- This refurb / clean up video can be performed on any 2.4L Hyundai / Kia GDI engine with the dual balance shaft oil pump assembly. When doing a partial or complete engine rebuild, you may notice your oil pump sprocket appears seized or very difficult to turn. The pump may still be serviceable after a good cleaning in lieu of replacement with a expensive new one (around $800 at the dealership). Disassembling and cleaning up the pump internals can bring it back to good operational condition. I've rebuilt 8 of these Hyundai / Kia 2.4 GDI engines due to spun / disintegrated / worn connecting rod bearings as well as worn or stuck pistons rings. Metallic debris from these worn engine parts can work their way into the pump and accumulate at pump balance shaft holes and journal bearing surfaces.
Torque Specs:
Front 8 mm cover bolts: 10 lbs
Top 10 mm cover bolts: 18 lbs followed by 45 degree angle torque
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/Hard...
Parts & Tools:
Sealed Power 1934M Balance Shaft Bearing Set (was told by one of my subscribers that these bearings will work as a replacement)
amzn.to/3Q9F60q
If you just want to replace the pump with a new aftermarket pump:
Oil Pump Balance Shaft Assembly Compatible for 2012-2015 Optima 2.4L, for 2010-2014 Sonata 2.4L Auto parts OE 23300-2G520
amzn.to/45XSSe4
Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz. , Red
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3/4" or 45mm Drive Hand Socket
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CRAFTSMAN Shallow Impact Socket, Metric, 1/2-Inch Drive, 17mm
amzn.to/3VUCNzf
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#sonata
Something I noticed after rebuilding my G4KC engine. The oil pressure relief valve in my replacement oil pump was stuck in the 'down' position, causing oil pressure to drop when rpms return to idle. As you correctly show at 13m50s it is critical that the spring loaded pressure control valve moves freely in the housing. I believe that a sticking oil pressure valve is a major cause of problems with oil pressure and bearings in these engines.
Excellent conclusion! I've rebuilt a dozen of these 2.4 GDI motors and noticed a few had stuck springs in the oil pump. More than likely caused by metallic debris from worn connecting rod bearings and/or cylinder bores.
Very valuable information 🙏🏻
After my 2.4 engine rebuild I'm have crank no start issues. Compression was about 180 psi each piston. All new engine sensors and car started before rebuilding engine
Recheck all electrical connectors and fuel delivery components.
Thanks for sharing the disassembly and assembly with us. greetings
You bet 👍
In Hyundai Elantra, 1 and 8 engine limited, this pump is installed, it can make a knocking sound.
Good to know and thanks for sharing! In most instances in engine knock that I've experienced, it's caused by worn out or spun connecting rod bearings (due to lack of oil pressure or oil starvation caused by oil from loose or stuck piston rings).
A knock can also come from misaligned balance shaft
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to make this for others to learn from
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, I really think you should do a 3mz or 1mz rebuild series. Would love love love to see that. You can pick one of the 3mz’s for the rx400h’s around 300-400 probably less if it is busted. I have one laying around collecting rust since I’ve been too lazy to get to it after the rx330 engine swap but I’m in RI and am not financially inclined to be shipping it out to you lmao
Thanks but that'll be too much work for me and my video editing partner.
Hello sir how are you if I cansel the cam shafts. And there is two oil pumps plzz tell me which the main oil pump there is two pumps but one for engine and other one for belencer cams
I believe both pumps work together.
Nice work and great video
Thanks!
Hi, is there a way I would know if the knock in engine is because of rod or main bearing?. or I have to remove the oil pan to figure this out. what is the usual first thing that goes out (main or rod).
Every 2.4 GDI engine that had knock that I disassembled has at least 1 worn out or spun rod bearing. Usually caused by oil starvation. Lots of silver residue floating around in the oil from the bearing wearing out.
I would have liked to know what your pressure readings were before tear down . Also would it have be n easier to replace the entire unit with a used one
Pump came out of a seized engine (more often than not due to the owner letting the oil get too low). A used one, if you can find one, unless it spins freely should be cleaned as well.
does the journall bearing in crank (main or rod) have any numbers like cap, or bearing doesnt have to be in order and it is same for all rod or main
Believe they're all the same for a pump...but some pumps use different bearing size from my understanding.
Great video.. quick question on different topic.. I got a customer where crank no start, i sprayed staring fluid in air intake, car tries to start then i know it is fuel pump, i towed the car to my home, and i tried again with started fluid and jump start, car is not even starting (acting like hydro locked).. question is will it hydro lock when i spray starting fluid in intake may be i sprayed 1/2 of bottle or 1/4 of bottle ).. after changing fuel pump it worked after lot of hestiation.. i still dont know what cuased this, is it a bad jump started or car is hydroo locked. ??
Try and spin the engine over by hand with a breaking bar. You don’t need that much starting fluid for future reference. Have someone crank it while you give it just a few sprays.
I would remove the spark plugs then try to spin the engine by hand.
@@Afrattzz1 Thanks Anthony. If i cant spin after removing spark plug, ii can assume it is locked right ?. in case if it is hyro locked , how do you unlock it.
@@sivucit well if it still won’t spin after doing that then the engine is damaged in some way. Try your luck and see what happens.
thanks! Sounds like you had a weak failing fuel pump. After replacement, it will hesitate starting until enough fuel gets to the injectors. Hydro lock occurs when an engine sucks in water from the intake (like when trying to drive through a flooded street), water gets into the combustion chamber and the pistons can no longer complete its cycle. This condition usually results in bent connecting rods. The engine can be unlocked after removing the spark plugs and air drying the cylinders with compressed air.
Can i change this model of oil pump with one that not have Balance bars came with older models?
I believe you can use a pump from the 2.0 engines; but you'll also need to get the matching chain sprocket, chain and chain guides.
Most informative video, thanks for the information ;)
If I may ask a couple of questions, my daughter's 2.4l engine oil light turns on at idle and goes off at 2500 rpm, after reading @SteveMcCarthy33's response I'm inclined to believe it may be a sticking pressure relief valve. Here comes the caveat, the engine shakes out of balance I believe because of the oil pump. Should I just change the pump or fool around with the existing pump, either way how do you install it to be balanced correctly, are there timing marks that I should follow? Any info would be superb. Thanks in advance
If you have the time and willing to put in the effort, I'd take off the oil pump, clean it thoroughly, reinstall and see what happens. Taking off the pump will require removal of the oil pan. If you see silver particles accumulated in the pan, it's more than likely that your rod bearings may be wearing out and that these particles is what clogged up your pressure relief valve. Your engine shaking problem could be caused by a dirty throttle body and/or carbon accumulation of your intake ports and valves; a problem with gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines where no fuel touches the intake valves to wash away carbon accumulation. Also, shaking could be cause by a clogged PCV valve. Hope this helps!
Hello, I have one question. Is it an oil pump and can it make a knocking sound?
Knocking usually cause by spun rod bearings.
That is a great brass ''punch''.
Does the job!
una pregunta alguen que me saque de una duda si quiero reemplazar la bomba de aceite como la tengo que pedir yo tengo un sonata 2016 gdi 2.4 de que otro modelos le quedan o como sería
Podes buscarla en base al modelo del motor del vehiculo en ingles podría ser algo como Sonata 2016 oil pump... El modelo de la bomba debe ser algo como 233002g400
@hardlymovingpro
How meany of these oil pumps have you cleaned and have you had good luck with just doing so? Only ask cause I’m in the process of rebuilding a 2016 gdi 2.4 and don’t really want to spend 350 bucks on a new oil pump.. If the one person is correct about the Toyota Camry bearing being the same. I’ll probably replace them as there only like 35 bucks from Sealed Power in part number 1934M long as they are the correct size.. Should have a bit better oil pressure correct. Did you reuse or replace the TTY bolts in the oil pump and when you put it back on the engine? What about the 7 long TTY bolts that hold it to the block reuse or replace? Thank you for your time in showing how to take it apart and put it back together..
I've rebuilt around a half dozen of these pumps. They only need a good cleaning IMHO. Although the bearings may be scored, the balance shaft journal surfaces have all been in good shape. These bearing don't get anywhere near the stress of connecting rod and main crankshaft bearings. What messes them up are owners who inadvertently drive their cars with low oil which starves oil to both the oil pump and rod bearings; which eventually leads to either rod knock and/or engine seizure. In the process, worn metal particles from the worn rod bearings work their way to the pump after the owner adds oils thinking that will fix the problem.
Yeah the one I’m rebuilding was ran low on oil and was only about 4k miles passed the oil change… What hurts these and all direct injection motors are the long oil change intervals.. Cause some gas gets passed the rings on them and at or around 5k miles you can smell the fuel in the oil.. Witch isn’t good at all. They really need to change that to around 3500-4k miles at most. It was still running but didn’t have a bearing left on the number 3 rod.. Going to have to bore the block once over cause they kept driving it. Even thought it was in limp mode. The piston was slapping the cylinder pretty badly.. I did see they offer .50mm and 1.00mm over on the pistons. I hope .50 cleans it up. As I hate to go the full 1.00mm over as that’s the biggest size I’ve seen in aftermarket pistons for them.. Sadly the car doesn’t even have 100k miles on it.. I told her I wouldn’t warranty it if she doesn’t keep it charged before 4k miles on the rebuild.. So I guess you reuse the bolts on the oil pump to block as well. The 6 or 7 long ones as well..
FYI: czcams.com/video/AX4iH4cKSAk/video.html
Wondering what mileage was on this 2.4 L Hyundai motor before it died?
Are these good motors, was wondering because I had a new one replaced when the recall was done. Have changed the oil religiously, anything else I should do as reg maintenance to keep it running?
Hyundai / Kia made three big mistakes: 1. Installing low friction, low tension piston rings to squeeze more mpg's (other manufacturers are doing the same thing resulting in customer complaints about excess oil consumption) 2. Recommending oil changes up to 8k miles (that one I can't figure out...Maybe the EPA wants less used oil waste) 3. Using 5W-20 weight oil (Apparently the EPA may have something to do with this to pressure manufacturers to get more MPG's with presumed lighter oils producing less friction)
Using 5W-30 and changing your oil every 3k miles should keep you trouble free. Change the filter at every other oil change. Use any brand of oil (like Walmart Supertech) that meets API / SAE specs.
@@hardlymovingpro I have a 2011 kia 2.4. The og engine failed at 180k. They replaced it free. This engine has about 60k on it. I will take your advice on the 5w-30. I already change oil at 3k Should be better here in Texas..👍
Thank you!
You bet!
Do you have any footage of you replacing the inline fuel filter on the 2000-2004 Toyota Avalon?
Used you timing belt video as guidance to help replace my cam and crank seals on my 01 Avalon
Thank you so much for the videos
Not the fuel tank/pump tea bag filter. The one by the abs module under the air box
No but it should be easy from my recollection. Take off the air filter box and hose to get access. Believe the filter is retained via compression fittings.
Easy for you hahaha, I don’t have your level of expertise! Thanks for the reply
@@fluorescentmug8333 you bet!
How do you prime the pump?
I don't. You can crank the engine for 30 seconds with no energy to the plugs.
old bearings is not good
If you can find a vendor that has replacements available, please share!
@@hardlymovingpro Same engine bearings as Camry 2003 and 2004
Thanks for the info!
@adiladilalhmandy106
Those replacement bearing from Sealed Power bearings is 1934M Engine Balance Shaft Bearing Set correct?? Or is it a different part number? If I looked it up right..
Exelente 👍
Thanks!
❤
👍
Hey man love your videos as always… I got a weird question do you have an email or anything that I can send you a question to maybe through PayPal and I pay you because I can find no answer definite to a door actuator question it's kicking my butt… I wanna do it right and I hate to put it on this board I know it's not the right place but I have no way to get in contact with you ....a response would be great yes or no… Thank you
Sure. Send to hardlymoving@gmail.com
@@hardlymovingpro I just sent it to your email… I really appreciate this…
please bro i need help my car has a broken oil pump because of one journal bearings , You mentioned it in this exact second czcams.com/video/BhtWkwWnnTE/video.html , Can I get these journal bearings can it work or it will not please tell me i have honda accord 2.4 Engine i live in morocco and honda is rare here espaslly these 2.4 engines i cant find it
Sorry. Not familiar with honda 2.4 oil pump bearings.
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