You quite literally just made a Westcott frame and kit, same durability, reliability, and compatibility for a fraction of the cost Westcott would charge, Amazing stuff haha
Great idea, looks like the real thing. One thing I noticed, you are a much braver guy than me... If I had used my drill on the dining room table my wife would have killed me !!
Thanks for sharing your creativity, this is really good. I like the way you filmed and colored your DIY of the Diffusion Frame. Any tutorials on the lens and camera setup of this episode will surely be appreciated. Thanks again James.
Thanks! I've since graduated to using Wag Flags. Depending on what you are filming, and if you have the budget, they are amazing. Modern Studio: modernstudio.com/collections/wag-flag Barndoor Lighting: www.filmandvideolighting.com/advantage-grip-wag-flags.html Advantage Grip: www.advantagegrip.com/wag%20flags.htm The Advantage Grip website is pretty hilarious. It looks like something a student would make after taking an "Intro To Web Design" class from 2005. The larger point being, you could most definitely purchase the wag flag material, and figure out a way to hang it on a DIY Frame using a lot of the same materials in this video!
@@Powersfilms Thanks for that info. I'm located in New Zealand now so getting things shipped is a pain and pricey. Hence why looking for DIY options. Funny though, I went to that site and recognized the area code for the contact info and that company is just a few miles from where I grew up in Alabama. Small world indeed.
Thanks for creating this video. I had stumbled upon the company that makes the tubing and connectors, but hadn't followed through with the build process. This video inspires me to get off the couch and order the parts for this project! Thanks for the much needed motivation.
I was gonna build one just like this but then found the exact same frame from PROAIM 4 x 4 scrim tube frame for 150$ Canadian on ebay and then bought 2 diffusion 4 x 4 for 50$ Canadian each, again on ebay (one 1/2 stop and the other is 1 stop) so total was 250$ and I didn't have to build anything and it was shipped to my door.
Thanks for all the links! The bounce fabric says it reflects the light back towards the source, which sounds a lot like that 3M material for those reflective green screens that used colored ring lights around the camera lens ... wouldn't you want a reflective fabric that can bounce light at angles like a book light setup, etc?
Hey! If they stopped stocking the longer poles, you can just order some of the shorter lengths on the site? I'd just google "aluminum square stock" and see what shows up. This site looks like they sell the identical aluminum tube: www.estoconnectors.com/catalog/tubing
Thanks for the comment. In all of my experience, I have never seen velcro (especially the 'hard side') wear out. Now, after thousands of uses, I have seen the 'soft side' of velcro get a little fluffy and damaged. In either case, if you wanted to replace the hard side velcro, you could drill out the old rivets, and insert new ones. To replace the soft-side velcro, you would just sew in new velcro over the old (maybe on the other side?) or just make a new piece of diffusion. Hope that helps!
Hola James! Genial video, nosotros somos un canal nuevo en youtube que tenemos como misión enseñar, y mostrar todos los implementos, instrumentos y equipos que utilizamos al momento de instalar un set de fotos o de grabación por el momento yendo desde lo más básico hasta después que ya veamos temas mas complejos. Somos de Ecuador y queremos impulsar esta grandiosa carrera sin embargo es desconocida y poco común en nuestro país por lo tanto estamos en busca de personas que les guste este mundo de lo audiovisual para que nos apoye dándonos su opinion, recomendación o algún tips para mejorar nuestro canal. Saludos y éxitos😊😎🇪🇨🇪🇨
What is up Arkitect! The clamp you are asking about is a “Cardellini” or a “Mathellini” clamp. Those clamps are just mini-vice clamps with a baby stud on the back and are very valuable on set. For the lengths, I went with the smaller segments, so I could travel with them easier. If you want though, you could definitely rock out with a longer length. Westcott makes a not-so-travel version that uses the 4’ lengths as well and it’s a little cheaper too.
I'm an idiot, can someone update the cutting instructions, the page is different now and doesn't offer exactly 8ft tubes and it says "# of pieces per item instead of # of holes per item" like in the video
Such a great video!! Thank you so much for all this info. I have all the pieces and I'm about ready to make the cuts. Mine is a 6'x6' and I have a question about where to make the cuts, I would love to hear your input on this. Should I make the pieces 3' each and have the cut/connector right in the center where the clamp will be, or should I have the cut/connector off center so that the clamp is on the metal only and not over the connector. Does that make sense? if so, do you have any input on either option? Thanks James!
Hey! For any notes on making the cuts, I forget what the sizes are specifically, but I remember the connectors taking up roughly 1". That being said, I would subtract 1" for every connector you use. Hopefully that helps!
Awesome job 🙏 unfortunately they don’t seem to ship to austria and in my 2 hour google search I was not able to find connectors with quick release that ship to austria :-/
Hey, I would see if there is another, closer manufacture that sells Aluminum stock, or extruded aluminum stock with quick connectors in Europe. I'm sure someone in Europe also makes and sells the aluminum parts you need, but you'll have to hunt it down.
@@Powersfilms Hi guys, they don't offer the drilling of the corners unfortunately, But perhaps you can find a solution ordering from this company. I havnt ordered from them yet for this small project but i've ordered alu poles a couple months back in Linz and they were super fast and great quality. www.thesteel.com/at/Nirostick-Formrohre-Hohlprofile-T265100011?v=1-166930
What softbox are you using on your Litepanels light? Do you recommened it? I see there are boxes from Chimera and DOP Choice, and need to decide which to buy.
Hey! Yes, I use a lot of DOP Choice gear. Those softboxes on that Astra 6x panel light are the DoP choice versions. If you'd like a cheaper option (and do not mind silk diffusion), I'd look at the D-Fuse 1'x1' Collapsible SoftBox. The only issue with the D-Fuse soft box, is that the artificial silk is sewn directly to the frame. Here's a link: www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7A5NPM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_JSENYRNY34QFGH5XZ67W
@@Powersfilms very nice my friend been a shooter in the midwest hip hop scene for many years. Have run into slug in many times since as far back as 99 here in Chicago
Hey Mike, I am using a 6" Cardellini or Matthellini depending on the brand. They are just vice grips that are prefect for holding film gear. That vice clamp then goes into a regular 2.5" grip head (your standard grip head) Here's a link: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860794-REG/impact_me_106_6_end_jaw_vise.html grip head: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/838888-REG/Impact_kcp200b_Grip_Head_for_Lights.html
First off I want to say thank you for sharing this great idea. I love a DIY project that is this good. You happened to mention in the video that if we find that if the connectors are too tight, gently sand the sides of the connectors down. But what if the connectors are too loose? Do you have any suggestions for tightening them up?
Hey! Glad you have found this helpful. Should the connectors be too loose, you can do two things: 1) Wrap electrical tape around the connector until it has a snug fit 2) Add JB Weld, or some other epoxy to the connector and let it dry. Then you sand down the added epoxy until you have a snug fit. Option 2 is pretty time consuming, so the fastest and easiest way would be to just add a few wraps of electrical tape.
Hi, Thanks for the video! will definitely have to make a few. One question though. I'm a bit confused when you asked them to cut you 22.5'' lenghts. Since the connectors take up 1'', wouldn't the cuts need to be 22'' each to make it exactly 24''? Since 1" is taken up on both sides.
A bit late to reply but for anyone who is wondering the same thing. There are actually (3) 1" buffers on each side due to the joining pieces. (1) in the middle and then the (2) corners. This equates to 3". 3" minus 48" = 45". 45" / 2 = 22.5"
@@Nikita_Brus No problem! I just put my frame together so lmk if you have any questions. EZ Tube was super easy/quick. Ordered it on a Friday and got everything on Monday. Helps that I'm only 1 state away from them, though.
Great DIY appreciate the tutorial. Quick question, if you'r spending the time making this product wouldn't it be easy to buy some extra material and make a simple carrying bag? Who wants to be bombarded by lady jean ads lol
Hmm... I never thought of that. Yea, I guess if you want to go all out, making a custom bag would be cool. The Westcott Kit comes with a bag you unroll similar to the bag chefs use to carry knives. Making that type of bag would be helpful if you are up for the challenge.
The problem with 5 in 1 reflectors is that the diffusion is usually too strong. With a 4x4 you can choose 1/4 stop, 1 stop, 2 stop, etc. All of my 5 in 1s cut too much light
Hey Blue Sera Films, yes I agree that 5-in-1 reflectors definitely have their place on a film set. But if you are trying to get a little more serious with your production, a lot of times you will need a rigid frame to skin different types of diffusion to to get different types of looks. I still have a few 5-in1's as they are great for certain shoots.
Hey James, yes, the aluminum tube will fit the Westcott 2" connector. Keep in mind that Westcott has a 2" connector, where as the EZ Tube's connector is 1". Both connectors are cross-compatible. For distance, both companies measure the space visible on the connector after the connectors are joined (hope that makes sense). If you are mixing and matching connectors, make sure you account for the 1" difference by using a longer or shorter tube, otherwise you'll end up with a trapezoid shape, instead of a square.
Muslin can be used as both a bounce and a diffusion for strong light. To punch through muslin cloth, you need a strong source (HMI, 1K Fresnel, or Light Storm LED).
@@ParisHolmesFilms Those lights are probably not strong enough to give you usable light when shone through muslin. But, blasting those lights through silk will still give you a good result.
@@Powersfilms Is this frame large enough to use as a bounce for that style of light? I'm looking for an unbleached muslin bounce to warm up my shot without blinding my talent (long shoots they need to be able to read during)
Please do not set a C-stand the way this guy did. Always have the knob to the right! If you have it on the left side, it will loosen with the weight of the frame and come crashing down.
Excellent point; but if you value build quality and versatility, you will get a lot of mileage out of this build. Film Riot is an amazing resource -- I am a huge fan -- but the DIY $15 build you are referencing uses PVC which isn't as rigid, and will bend. The Film Riot build, also only allows you to permanently* fit one diffusion piece. (*I suppose if you really wanted, you could sew custom 8'x8' sections, but at that point, using PVC would really start to sag and fail). If you continue to light and film your own projects, you'll quickly realize you will be constantly "auditioning" different types of diffusion. When you change out or "audition" different types of diffusion, you will love the speed and convenience of swapping out different cloth because everything is attached with velcro. Unfortunately the DIY Film Riot version makes it difficult to change out the different types of material. By all means, the $15 is an excellent "band aid" for the diffusion solutions on set, especially for beginners, but this method is more of a permanent solution that is great for studio work, location lighting and some "run-and-gun" projects. Lastly, traveling around with 8 foot sections, or even multiple 4 foot sections for that matter, becomes a pain. That's why the grip Gods at Modern Studio created a cool floppy-flag that measures 36"x36" so you can easily fit in inside your car! I think they sell it for $65, which isn't bad. www.filmandvideolighting.com/modernstudio-36x36-floppy.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZX4BRDmARIsAFYh7ZJ5ruz96zf5rhGULQWvl6A-0WKL4StBQZA0v406f_MAsuoehA5DCCMaAnBKEALw_wcB
This is not a good solution. People, do not DIY this just so that you can save $300. In case your needs change you will not be able to sell this so that you can pivot to different gear using the money you would get if you sold the Westcott version. Besides, all your labor will be at least $300.
You quite literally just made a Westcott frame and kit, same durability, reliability, and compatibility for a fraction of the cost Westcott would charge, Amazing stuff haha
I came here expecting a cheap bad trick but this was amazing thank you so much
I’m not going to do you wrong C-Dog.
This is the BEST DIY 4x4 frame build I have ever seen!
You are too kind, thank you.
Great idea, looks like the real thing. One thing I noticed, you are a much braver guy than me... If I had used my drill on the dining room table my wife would have killed me !!
You're a funny guy, Not cheesy like some CZcams guys, genuinely funny bones. I enjoyed that, thanks.
This was literally the perfect video, you did everything I was going to do, but better!
Let me know if you spot something I missed or something else I could have done.
@@Powersfilms added more rivets.
Dude!!! You just saved me thousands of dollars!! I owe you a beer! 😂
Happy to help!
Thanks for sharing your creativity, this is really good. I like the way you filmed and colored your DIY of the Diffusion Frame. Any tutorials on the lens and camera setup of this episode will surely be appreciated. Thanks again James.
Hey! This setup was shot with:
- Sony FS7
- Atomos Shogun Recorder
- Sigma 18-35mm
- Edited in Premiere Pro
So good! Thanks for keeping it fun and humorous. Was looking at the prices of roadrags etc and thinking it’s just a frame and cloth! Love your work
Thanks! I've since graduated to using Wag Flags. Depending on what you are filming, and if you have the budget, they are amazing.
Modern Studio: modernstudio.com/collections/wag-flag
Barndoor Lighting: www.filmandvideolighting.com/advantage-grip-wag-flags.html
Advantage Grip: www.advantagegrip.com/wag%20flags.htm
The Advantage Grip website is pretty hilarious. It looks like something a student would make after taking an "Intro To Web Design" class from 2005.
The larger point being, you could most definitely purchase the wag flag material, and figure out a way to hang it on a DIY Frame using a lot of the same materials in this video!
@@Powersfilms Thanks for that info. I'm located in New Zealand now so getting things shipped is a pain and pricey. Hence why looking for DIY options. Funny though, I went to that site and recognized the area code for the contact info and that company is just a few miles from where I grew up in Alabama. Small world indeed.
Thanks for making this! Just ordered all the parts. Stoked it'll be travel size and a fraction the price of Westcott/Matthews.
Happy to help and good luck! I still use mine from time to time.
Thanks for creating this video. I had stumbled upon the company that makes the tubing and connectors, but hadn't followed through with the build process. This video inspires me to get off the couch and order the parts for this project! Thanks for the much needed motivation.
You crazy for this one James 🔥🔥🔥
BRILLIANT!
We need more reviews like this! Well done
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Good idea, to use spare parts to be able to extend the size of the diffuser later.
Thanks for the great video! 😊👍
"James, do you know why our coffee table is all scratched up? James???"
I was gonna build one just like this but then found the exact same frame from PROAIM 4 x 4 scrim tube frame for 150$ Canadian on ebay and then bought 2 diffusion 4 x 4 for 50$ Canadian each, again on ebay (one 1/2 stop and the other is 1 stop) so total was 250$ and I didn't have to build anything and it was shipped to my door.
Thank you so much for the tutorial!❤
Well done, James! Very entertaining and informative video.
this is great! now I want to attempt the same method to build a book light kit similar to Westcotts.
This was very detailed! Great work!
Thanks a lot! I am ordering the parts to build my own. Alway though the price of a trim Jim was abusive for what it is.
Great video, man! Keep making content
Cool build!
awesome tip! thanks
Awsome video! you got yourself a new subscriber!
This looks like a great build. Would this work ok outdoors? With sandbags of course.
Thanks for all the links! The bounce fabric says it reflects the light back towards the source, which sounds a lot like that 3M material for those reflective green screens that used colored ring lights around the camera lens ... wouldn't you want a reflective fabric that can bounce light at angles like a book light setup, etc?
Great video! !
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Let me know if you'd like to see any other videos related to filmmaking?
Nice solution James. Can you also make an 8x8 frame out of these or do you think it is not stable enough with that many connections?
unfortunately it looks like this company has stopped making the 98 inch long poles. :( Any idea where I can get this tubing besides this place?
Hey! If they stopped stocking the longer poles, you can just order some of the shorter lengths on the site? I'd just google "aluminum square stock" and see what shows up. This site looks like they sell the identical aluminum tube: www.estoconnectors.com/catalog/tubing
Is there any reason other than portability to cut the aluminum down to 2' long pieces and connect them in the middle versus just having 4' pieces?
Yup, the 2’ length keeps the frame easier to manage while traveling.
Hey, what about when it time to replace the velcro? How would you remove it?
Thanks for the comment. In all of my experience, I have never seen velcro (especially the 'hard side') wear out.
Now, after thousands of uses, I have seen the 'soft side' of velcro get a little fluffy and damaged.
In either case, if you wanted to replace the hard side velcro, you could drill out the old rivets, and insert new ones.
To replace the soft-side velcro, you would just sew in new velcro over the old (maybe on the other side?) or just make a new piece of diffusion.
Hope that helps!
@@Powersfilms thanks
Hola James! Genial video, nosotros somos un canal nuevo en youtube que tenemos como misión enseñar, y mostrar todos los implementos, instrumentos y equipos que utilizamos al momento de instalar un set de fotos o de grabación por el momento yendo desde lo más básico hasta después que ya veamos temas mas complejos. Somos de Ecuador y queremos impulsar esta grandiosa carrera sin embargo es desconocida y poco común en nuestro país por lo tanto estamos en busca de personas que les guste este mundo de lo audiovisual para que nos apoye dándonos su opinion, recomendación o algún tips para mejorar nuestro canal. Saludos y éxitos😊😎🇪🇨🇪🇨
What are you using to clamp the frame to your c-stand? Also why not 4' pieces? Simply so it's easier to transport?
What is up Arkitect! The clamp you are asking about is a “Cardellini” or a “Mathellini” clamp.
Those clamps are just mini-vice clamps with a baby stud on the back and are very valuable on set.
For the lengths, I went with the smaller segments, so I could travel with them easier. If you want though, you could definitely rock out with a longer length.
Westcott makes a not-so-travel version that uses the 4’ lengths as well and it’s a little cheaper too.
really useful
I'm an idiot, can someone update the cutting instructions, the page is different now and doesn't offer exactly 8ft tubes and it says "# of pieces per item instead of # of holes per item" like in the video
Such a great video!! Thank you so much for all this info. I have all the pieces and I'm about ready to make the cuts. Mine is a 6'x6' and I have a question about where to make the cuts, I would love to hear your input on this. Should I make the pieces 3' each and have the cut/connector right in the center where the clamp will be, or should I have the cut/connector off center so that the clamp is on the metal only and not over the connector. Does that make sense? if so, do you have any input on either option?
Thanks James!
Hey! For any notes on making the cuts, I forget what the sizes are specifically, but I remember the connectors taking up roughly 1". That being said, I would subtract 1" for every connector you use. Hopefully that helps!
Can you please make a video on how to make a grid 40degree or anything along those lines
Should maybe take a look at this czcams.com/video/9pkRd2BbF3k/video.html (not DIY, but a cheaper solution than the store).
Awesome job 🙏 unfortunately they don’t seem to ship to austria and in my 2 hour google search I was not able to find connectors with quick release that ship to austria :-/
Hey, I would see if there is another, closer manufacture that sells Aluminum stock, or extruded aluminum stock with quick connectors in Europe. I'm sure someone in Europe also makes and sells the aluminum parts you need, but you'll have to hunt it down.
@@Powersfilms Hi guys, they don't offer the drilling of the corners unfortunately, But perhaps you can find a solution ordering from this company. I havnt ordered from them yet for this small project but i've ordered alu poles a couple months back in Linz and they were super fast and great quality. www.thesteel.com/at/Nirostick-Formrohre-Hohlprofile-T265100011?v=1-166930
Shame I can't find these parts in the UK
What softbox are you using on your Litepanels light? Do you recommened it? I see there are boxes from Chimera and DOP Choice, and need to decide which to buy.
Hey! Yes, I use a lot of DOP Choice gear.
Those softboxes on that Astra 6x panel light are the DoP choice versions. If you'd like a cheaper option (and do not mind silk diffusion), I'd look at the D-Fuse 1'x1' Collapsible SoftBox.
The only issue with the D-Fuse soft box, is that the artificial silk is sewn directly to the frame.
Here's a link: www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7A5NPM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_JSENYRNY34QFGH5XZ67W
Is that an atmosphere logo behind you as in slug?
Excellent spot, it is. I’m a big fan and that’s a vinyl copy of their album.
@@Powersfilms very nice my friend been a shooter in the midwest hip hop scene for many years. Have run into slug in many times since as far back as 99 here in Chicago
wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwww perfect
Thanks Karlos.
fucking lit man. nice job
Anyone knows if there are analogues in Europe?
Hi James, this is great. What kind of grip head are you using to secure your frame to your C-Stand?
Hey Mike, I am using a 6" Cardellini or Matthellini depending on the brand. They are just vice grips that are prefect for holding film gear. That vice clamp then goes into a regular 2.5" grip head (your standard grip head) Here's a link: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860794-REG/impact_me_106_6_end_jaw_vise.html grip head: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/838888-REG/Impact_kcp200b_Grip_Head_for_Lights.html
Thanks for asking.. no one talks about this but it's also very important.
First off I want to say thank you for sharing this great idea. I love a DIY project that is this good. You happened to mention in the video that if we find that if the connectors are too tight, gently sand the sides of the connectors down. But what if the connectors are too loose? Do you have any suggestions for tightening them up?
Hey! Glad you have found this helpful.
Should the connectors be too loose, you can do two things:
1) Wrap electrical tape around the connector until it has a snug fit
2) Add JB Weld, or some other epoxy to the connector and let it dry. Then you sand down the added epoxy until you have a snug fit.
Option 2 is pretty time consuming, so the fastest and easiest way would be to just add a few wraps of electrical tape.
Yow bro! Great vid! Was wondering if it can support a 12x12? Thanks!
for 12 x 12 I would definitely use grid pipe for the rigidity
nice video
Thanks!
@@Powersfilms you got yourself a new subscriber!
what if you think 300 is too far outside your budget?
Hi, Thanks for the video! will definitely have to make a few. One question though. I'm a bit confused when you asked them to cut you 22.5'' lenghts. Since the connectors take up 1'', wouldn't the cuts need to be 22'' each to make it exactly 24''? Since 1" is taken up on both sides.
A bit late to reply but for anyone who is wondering the same thing. There are actually (3) 1" buffers on each side due to the joining pieces. (1) in the middle and then the (2) corners. This equates to 3". 3" minus 48" = 45". 45" / 2 = 22.5"
@@hipstertrout2865 Thank you! still haven't went in on them so this is great info!
@@Nikita_Brus No problem! I just put my frame together so lmk if you have any questions. EZ Tube was super easy/quick. Ordered it on a Friday and got everything on Monday. Helps that I'm only 1 state away from them, though.
Great DIY appreciate the tutorial. Quick question, if you'r spending the time making this product wouldn't it be easy to buy some extra material and make a simple carrying bag? Who wants to be bombarded by lady jean ads lol
Hmm... I never thought of that. Yea, I guess if you want to go all out, making a custom bag would be cool. The Westcott Kit comes with a bag you unroll similar to the bag chefs use to carry knives. Making that type of bag would be helpful if you are up for the challenge.
Sadly no eztube corner connectors here in Aus...
This is a good video, but there is an even easier and cheaper way around this with large 5 in 1 reflectors and light stands...
The problem with 5 in 1 reflectors is that the diffusion is usually too strong. With a 4x4 you can choose 1/4 stop, 1 stop, 2 stop, etc. All of my 5 in 1s cut too much light
Hey Blue Sera Films, yes I agree that 5-in-1 reflectors definitely have their place on a film set. But if you are trying to get a little more serious with your production, a lot of times you will need a rigid frame to skin different types of diffusion to to get different types of looks. I still have a few 5-in1's as they are great for certain shoots.
@@Powersfilms That's fair enough, I imagine i'll need a big frame at one point.
How heavy is this frame (without material)? Thanks.
Will the EZtube aluminum tube fit the Westcott 2" connector? I am trying to do a 4' x 6' scrim jim.
Hey James, yes, the aluminum tube will fit the Westcott 2" connector.
Keep in mind that Westcott has a 2" connector, where as the EZ Tube's connector is 1". Both connectors are cross-compatible. For distance, both companies measure the space visible on the connector after the connectors are joined (hope that makes sense).
If you are mixing and matching connectors, make sure you account for the 1" difference by using a longer or shorter tube, otherwise you'll end up with a trapezoid shape, instead of a square.
What about starting with the frame from an old window screen??
You could, but they are flimsy and do not break down to smaller, travel-friendly pieces.
What are the grip clamps you used to secure it to the c stand?
Looks like a Matthews Matthellini.
does the light go through the muslin you ordered? Asking because it looks like it blocks almost all the light from going through.
Muslin can be used as both a bounce and a diffusion for strong light. To punch through muslin cloth, you need a strong source (HMI, 1K Fresnel, or Light Storm LED).
@@Powersfilms I have a 120d..2 of them actually....Also have a 750 source four..Would that be strong enough?
@@ParisHolmesFilms Those lights are probably not strong enough to give you usable light when shone through muslin. But, blasting those lights through silk will still give you a good result.
@@Powersfilms Is this frame large enough to use as a bounce for that style of light? I'm looking for an unbleached muslin bounce to warm up my shot without blinding my talent (long shoots they need to be able to read during)
Deary deary me. Am I _really_ the only one to say it?
6:27 A baby!
Please do not set a C-stand the way this guy did. Always have the knob to the right! If you have it on the left side, it will loosen with the weight of the frame and come crashing down.
Well, Film Riot showed me how to make an 8x8 diffuser for 15 bucks. Explain that.
Excellent point; but if you value build quality and versatility, you will get a lot of mileage out of this build.
Film Riot is an amazing resource -- I am a huge fan -- but the DIY $15 build you are referencing uses PVC which isn't as rigid, and will bend.
The Film Riot build, also only allows you to permanently* fit one diffusion piece. (*I suppose if you really wanted, you could sew custom 8'x8' sections, but at that point, using PVC would really start to sag and fail).
If you continue to light and film your own projects, you'll quickly realize you will be constantly "auditioning" different types of diffusion. When you change out or "audition" different types of diffusion, you will love the speed and convenience of swapping out different cloth because everything is attached with velcro.
Unfortunately the DIY Film Riot version makes it difficult to change out the different types of material.
By all means, the $15 is an excellent "band aid" for the diffusion solutions on set, especially for beginners, but this method is more of a permanent solution that is great for studio work, location lighting and some "run-and-gun" projects.
Lastly, traveling around with 8 foot sections, or even multiple 4 foot sections for that matter, becomes a pain. That's why the grip Gods at Modern Studio created a cool floppy-flag that measures 36"x36" so you can easily fit in inside your car! I think they sell it for $65, which isn't bad.
www.filmandvideolighting.com/modernstudio-36x36-floppy.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZX4BRDmARIsAFYh7ZJ5ruz96zf5rhGULQWvl6A-0WKL4StBQZA0v406f_MAsuoehA5DCCMaAnBKEALw_wcB
6:11 hahahahahaha
$300 is also too much to defuse light. It can be done much cheaper
This is not a good solution. People, do not DIY this just so that you can save $300. In case your needs change you will not be able to sell this so that you can pivot to different gear using the money you would get if you sold the Westcott version. Besides, all your labor will be at least $300.