Tech Tip: Ruger 10/22 Basic Maintenance
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- čas přidán 18. 04. 2024
- Hi everyone, Caleb here from Brownells. Today, I’m going to walk you through the basic maintenance steps for your Ruger 10/22, the BRN-22, and pretty much any Ruger 10/22 clone. This is crucial for keeping your rifle in top condition, so let's dive right in.
First and foremost, safety is key. Make sure your firearm is completely unloaded. Remove the magazine, pull back the bolt, and check the chamber to ensure there's no ammunition inside.
Once that's confirmed, let’s start the disassembly. Most Ruger 10/22 models just need one tool for disassembly - typically a screwdriver. You'll find a screw at the bottom of the stock, right in front of the magazine well. Depending on your model, this could be a flathead or an Allen screw. Unscrew this, but there's no need to fully remove it; just enough so that the barreled action can be lifted out of the stock.
Here’s a pro tip: make sure your safety is in the middle position during this step. If it's not, it might catch on the stock, making it difficult to remove the barreled action.
With the action free, let’s focus on cleaning the bolt and the receiver. If you have a factory setup, your buffer and pins might fall out easily, and that's okay. Just set them aside. For those with aftermarket parts, they might be tighter, and you may need a punch to remove them. Once the bolt is accessible, clean it thoroughly using a good solvent like Hoppes No. 9. Apply the solvent to a brush and scrub all parts of the bolt and the receiver, paying extra attention to areas with visible build-up.
To clean the barrel, we apply solvent to the brush and run it through a handful of times. Then, we can follow up with clean patches as well as oiled patches to clean and protect the bore.
For the trigger group, a simple wipe-down is usually sufficient for regular maintenance. It’s important to keep the hammer and the ejector clean since they play crucial roles in the firing process.
Lubrication is next. Apply a high-quality gun oil to all moving parts where metal contacts metal. This includes the bolt, the charging handle, and especially the face of the hammer, which rubs against the bolt when firing.
Once everything is clean and lubricated, it's time to reassemble. Reverse the disassembly steps, making sure everything snaps back into place correctly. Finally, conduct a function check to ensure everything is working properly. This means checking the safety, firing mechanisms, and making sure the bolt retracts and returns smoothly.
And that’s it! You’ve just completed basic maintenance on your Ruger 10/22. Regular maintenance like this will ensure your rifle continues to perform well and lasts for many years.
If you have any questions or additional tips, please leave them in the comments below. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more tutorials like this. Thanks for joining me, and I’ll see you next time! - Sport
I got my first 10/22 as a kid for my birthday. Shot the crap out of it. Fast forward 20 or so years and I started to have light strikes. I thought maybe the firing pin broke, or perhaps just wore down so far over the years. While disassembling the rifle to investigate, I realized I had never done more than clean the bore and wipe down internal areas I could reach. I had never even removed the tigger group much less the bolt assembly. I had been worried that it was similar to the Mark pistol series which was notoriously finicky. So I dove in and fully disassembled it, discovering for the first time how easy it is to maintain. And also discovering 20 years worth of 22LR buildup crud that was causing my issues. Runs like a top again. Moral of the story: don't be afraid to tear into something. Videos like this are a godsend in that regard.
Nicely done video. I've had a 10/22 for over 40 years, cleaned it hundreds of times, but I watched the video looking to pick up tips! Thanks Brownells for doing these videos
Always learning.👨🏻🎓👩🏻🏫
Bro got a casual AT4 chillin in his locker.
For $300-500 you can too.
Why hasn't anyone made a Hoppe's #9 cologne??? Because yes it is almost everyone's favorite!!
Then, Sprinkle yourself with saw dust, and even manly men would find you attractive! 😂
LOL!
My Ex-Wife hated the smell so much I couldn’t use it in the house.
That should have been my first clue!
@@phillipleighton9641 I have a buddy who decided to propose to his GF when he caught her huffing his Hunters Specialty Fresh Earth cover scent wafters that he left out on the coffee table... Their wedding rehearsal cake was a replica of the scent wafer can... Keeper.
I’ve actually brought this up to my wife several years ago. She said not a good idea. So when I clean my guns I make sure to put a little behind the ears.
Coming from the army, the clp smell is etched in my brain. It reminds of so many things. It's funny while doing it not so fond, but now its better.
11:00. I broke my set of cleaning rods going the wrong way so this info is very valuable
The Ruger 10/22 "Competition" does have a rear cleaning port.
It's also is a product of their custom shop.
Caleb. Suggestions for a new video similar to this.
Takedown, maintenance, and reassembly of a Mark II Ruger pistol. (Unless you have as much problem as I do with the reassembly and can’t fit it in a 30 minute video.) I will understand. 😎
I second that. Mine is completely disassembled pieces in a shoebox somewhere.
One of the best videos on Ruger 10/22 very detailed and clear helps me a lot as a new Ruger owner
Got my 10/22 when I was 12. I am now 54 and to be totally honest I have never torn it apart to clean it. I know, I am a terrible gun dad but truthfully I have never had a problem with it in all those years. Guess it is time to clean it lol.
Ruger 3+ decades ago (before YT) used to have training sessions on the 10/22 (and MkI) to show us how to clean, maintain, and trobleshoot the firearms. Here is a quick suppliment to help out, based on Ruger.
1- Barrel and chamber should be cleaned and wiped DRY before firing.
2- Bolt should be LIGHTLY oiled and wiped almost dry.
3- Receiver should be LIGHTLY oiled and wiped almost dry.
Both of those recommendations from Ruger were to limit the powder fouling with blowback 22LR firearms.
4- Recoil spiring is cleaned and wiped dry while jamming charging handle.
5- The bolt and charging handle are assembled differetly at the factory and by gunsmiths for easier assembly. The charging handle goes further back, and light finger pressure at the breechface is used to insert the bolt.
6- Ruger will NOT say this truth. Don't remove the stock, unless you have to for super cleaning or gunsmithing work. The attachment screw and/or barrel band bend the barrel, differently each time the stock is reattached.
Yes, with a caveat that some have or do shoot the crap out of their 10/22s to point of needing to. I've bought a few over the decades. Two have shot actually hundreds of pounds of 22LR ammunition, to point of showing extensive wear. I don't recommend the take down model for accuracy. But I actually was handed it by the president of Ruger when I bought it on the anniversary of the 10/22 model.
the timing of this is amazing, i JUST picked up a 10/22 yesterday, and my name is Caleb too! Amazing video
Outstanding instructional presentation! Most gun cleaning videos are aimed at folks who already know how to clean guns. Kinda like lawn mower repair videos are aimed at people who already know how lawn mowers work. Your video gives me some confidence I can get my new rifle taken apart AND put back together.
Wait a minute! Do you actually cut your grass?
Thanks, I use the Otis cleaning kit with cables that can be pulled through from the breach end on a couple of rifles I own that you can’t run a rod from the breach end.
Two things I do beyond what is here. #1 is remove the extractor and spring, using the "Gunsmither" tool from Tandenkross. The extractor slot often acquires a lot of .22 crud. #2 is to use the same "Gunsmither" tool for bolt reassembly. Seems to make it easier to keep the bolt and bolt handle properly aligned (and squared), while fiddling the bolt handle lug into the bolt recess.
I use a Hoppe's Viper Bore Snake for cleaning my Ruger 10/22's.
That way I can still clean them from the chambers without having to have aftermarket receivers.
I like the glass bottle of Hoppe's #9. I need one.
Not any more the QUART is plastic anyway...
I just use a bore snake on mine now to avoid the muzzle.
BORE SNAKES ALL DAY BRO
New 10/22s the pins aren't just gonna fall out, they need a punch.
My fathers idea of cleaning his 10/22 was drowning the barrel with bore cleaner and letting it run its course hahaha When I received his 10/22 the bolt almost wouldn't come out. The amount of buildup in it was insane!
My father's 10/22 lived a similar life. I wouldn't be surprised if I was the first one to clean it. He had it before I was born. The first time I cleaned it in the 90s. It's a early one from first few years of manufacturing.
@@DB-yj3qc He had a ruger mark ii. I know he wouldve broken it trying to reassemble it, im definitely the first one to clean that one too. It was gross lol
Very nicely done. Straight and to the point, but informative. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and God bless
Holding that charging handle in place while putting the bolt back in was a real pain in the ass the first time I did it.
Try it with a Ruger mk.3 or earlier pistol.
Another Great Video. Thank you!
Great Job with All the details! Keep up the Great Work!
I have great memories of the sent of hoppes #9 with cleaning guns with my grandfather years ago. a while back thought of making a cologne out of hoppes for gun guys🤩
Great video, yes please do the video on drilling the back out.
I may try that too. Bore Snakes work without having to drill your receiver👍🏼
Its funny that the first firearm I had was a G34, and now I feel like I missed out on Childhood memories. Can't wait for mine to get to my FFL this week! Thanks for the walk through, Caleb!
The Ruger BX trigger won't go all the way to safe when the gun isn't cocked. So you can dry-fire the gun after making sure it's unloaded and the safety selector will stop at the halfway point.
I have a small parts washer filled with parts cleaner fluid (mineral spirits) for gun cleaning. After washing i blow off the parts with compressed air. I clean the barrel with either a bore snake or cleaning rod like yours. I have a Bergara BXR Carbon I use for SCSA competition. It has the hole at the back of the receiver making using a cleaning rod easy. Periodically I attach a bronze brush to a modified cleaning rod connected to a drill to clean the carbon ring in the chamber. I do this rather slowly. I also use a right angle screw driver to align the charging handle to the bolt, making assembly very easy.
Loved this.
I just learned so much thanks
I have a Dewey R-1022-H rod guide that fits over the muzzle end of a heavy barrel 1022. It works, but I since drilled the receiver to allow cleaning from the chamber end.
TIP: Differences in torque on the reciever skrew affect your point of impact and group sizes. Hence, have to rezero after cleaning.
Decided to watch this video for tips, and then had to ask myself, Did I clean my 10/22 after the last time I used it? I guess I will be adding that to the to-do list
I always swab the bore with a dry patch when I'm done so lessen the chance of any cleaning agents pooling on the bolt face.
Thank you good info,😁
On the factory receiver, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the rear of it years ago. Simple to do, no special 'fixtures' needed, just measure twice - drill once. It's something Ruger should have done for us.
They have to sell it through the video
Caleb, you made me feel a bit better. Putting the bolt back into the gun isn't easy. Not that you struggled, it's tricky. And the, putting it back into the stock. That's also a bit tricky. Great video. Now, what's the best way to remove lead from a barrel?
Good video I might have worn some gloves maybe in the future you can do a spring refresh for extractor and firing pin showing upgrades available first time seeing the drilled hole someone was thinking i was always mindful crown but thought it was overblown
Great Video 💯💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
When I run my Dewey Rod thru the chamber end of the barrel, I always unscrew whatever attachment, brush, jag, slotted tip before I pull the rod back thru to avoid any possible chance of damaging the crown. I heard there was a tool to aid in replacing the charging handle and bolt into the receiver. Does Brownells
have such a tool?
Please do a video for the “ Receiver Drilling Jig For Ruger 10/22” which you mentioned in the video
Also item is currently out of stock so please restock as well. 👍
Great vid. Makes it super simple to reinstall the bolt. Also, where can I get the drill guide to enable me to clean my 10/22 barrel from the breach rather than the muzzle?
Brownell’s used to see a guide to drill the hole in the receiver.
Great video!
Would recommend you make a suppressed 10/22 version though.
It took me ages to come up with a regime that would allow for more than 100 rounds fired without the gun stopping due to fouling.
Using Hornady dry lube instead of any other lubricants was what worked for me.
Doing so allows me to go about 1K rounds without any cleaning.
Good Video. What is the alternative buffer ? Is it preferable to the stock buffer ?
Magpul recommends 20 inch pounds in their paperwork for the stock
Why not remove the barrel from the receiver to push cleaning rod from the breach?
My father just recently bought the Ruger 10/22 magnum, I was wondering what your thoughts were on a recoil buffer pin for the .22 magnum?
When the video got to the part where you were running the brush in from the breach. Seemed to be zipping that back into the barrel really fast! Is that not a concern for the possibility of crown damage?
Pro tip: air your gun safe rocket launcher out monthly.
Thats nice you sell the jig for the hole,,here is a way simple solution to avoid crown damage and brissel splash in the receiver,,,just slide the cleaning rod down the barrel when you see it in the reciever take and screw the brush on and pull it out take it off and repeat,,
I never clean my guns. When they stop working I just buy new ones.
I use high pressure air to blow hoppe’s with dirt out of the receiver.
Same.
nice ATGM !
Is that lever mag release an option from Ruger for the 10/22? Thanks!
I'm no expert, so this is a legit humble question: would it help protect the crown if you wrapped the brush with a patch, below the bristles? Or would adding more girth with a patch cause more damage or be more of a headache than it's worth?
Did you seat the barrel in that stock or float it?
What is your opinion on ultrasonic cleaners?
Are you ever coming back to BR?
Just curious if there's gonna be any videos on the trigger group (or if I missed it) such as installing an extended mag release or that upgraded bolt catch that was in another video
Yes, there will be. We have them shot and are currently being edited. Thanks for watching!
@@brownells awesome thank you!
Hi Caleb. I have always been under the impression that when you run your brush or jag down the barrel, you should only go breach to crown, and never in and out both ways. Whenever I clean a barrel, I make one pass, unscrew the brush or jag, carefully pull the rod out, put it back together and repeat. Am I tripping, or is there anything to this? Thanks. P.S. - I'm not OCD, but I am prior service.
That is addressed in the video.
Those damned pins falling out of newer Rugers can be quite aggravating, particularly when it's the magazine latch pivot pin. Reassembly can be quite frustrating. I have found that putting a touch of grease on the pins will keep them in place.
The problem is that grease attracts and retains dirt and grit when can end up wearing the parts. That's why it's very rarely used unless absolutely necessary or in a sealed area.
@@_droid You don't have to put the grease on first. You can insert the pin and add a touch of grease to the outside. It will still hold the pin in place while you reassemble the rifle. Alternately, you can use a dab of oil instead of grease. Oil is what I applied last time.
great video! I would like to watch a video explaining this procedure for the Hammerli Tac R1 22lr
Is that an AT4 on the safe box?
Where can I get the oiling bottle that you are using? I could use several of those to help with so many different types of solvents and oils I use to break down, refurb, and rebuild old firearms. I looked on the Brownells website but couldn't find it.
Brownells sells them, look in cleaning category, I think they are called needle oilers they come 3 to a pack and have a plastic cap that slides on the end to seal the tip. Some solvents and oils really soften the rubber seal under the metal cap, so don't overtighten the cap because it will deform the seal it's best to keep them upright when your not using them. Don't just toss them in your range bag. But they are great for your shop bench. One more thing it's nearly impossible to keep any kind of marker or ink to stay on the bottles and don't even think about a tape lable. Other than that they are great.
@@tubeonline629 Thanks I was able to find them once I went into the cleaning section. I tried to look them up from the home screen and they wouldn't come up.
Would a bore sneak work?
That big demonstration about the crown of the barrel, then you repeatedly pull the brush back against the crown without a care in the world. Which is it? 15:20
Basically, if there is metal rubbing on metal, it requires oil. Just a schoosh!
Caleb alone doing a video alone of course on a .22 rifle? Check A 10/22 rifle? Check but wait why is it modern version? As a collector and restorer of the old .22 short, 22. rifle and .22 Long Rifle Rifles we all grew up and cut our teeth on,; that we came to know and love growing up. Wouldn't one of those of older 1960's 10/22 been better for the video? As they all need the same cleaning, if not even more from the years of kids not doing it fully as they should have.
Plus Caleb could show off some of that great collection he brags about owning, protecting, rescuing , and preserving. Plenty of time to discuss the old beauties without Steve there interrupting the rabbit hole Caleb would of course go down....
The takedown version is easier to clean
Still have the M4 style 10/22 barrel?
I have a very hard time believing Caleb is a gunsmith! His girly hands have NEVER seen a hard day's work!
He could prolly whoop you for sure
How can I lighten my trigger pull? I'm at around 7lbs. Garage sale Anchorage $50.
You only have to clean every 6 years. Lead is a great lubricant
How often do you need to strip your 10/22 like this?
I'd say very rarely. My 10/22 has been running for 15 years with only the most basic of cleaning.
Doesn’t everyone love the smell of number 9
I sold my .22 and I regret it so much..... Something I always will regret
You can get a stock one brand new for $299
The pins in my ruger were so tight i had to beat them out with a hammer and they did not want to come out after the hammering guess what it looks like now
Allen wrenches are like USB plugs, you'll never get it right on the first try.
Bonjour, a quelle fréquence doit on effectuer ce nettoyage ?
Why do we call the Crown and Muzzle, the same thing?
The crown is a specific area of the muzzle. Kind of like the nostril is a specific part of the nose.
Why are the clips so hard to load
I'M SURE THE BROWNELLS RECEIVERS ARE NICE, BUT DANG THAT SOUNDS LIKE THERES SAND IN THE GUN WHEN HE SLIDES THAT BOLT BACK AND FORTH. SHOULD GET RID OF THE ANODIZING INSIDE AND POLISH.
Those 2 Allen screws on my 1995 10-22 that hold the barrel to the receiver continue to loosen. Always check and tighten those when I break it down. Is that a common problem?
Have you tried Loctite?
@@Joe-hz1nw don't use loctite just torque it down to 12 - 15 in/lbs.
@@Joe-hz1nw No, I just check it each time I clean it. Gives me an excuse to clean it.
"Carefully guide it in" 😂😂😂😂 classic comment 😂😂😂😅
Why did he start at the muzzel with the brush instead of the breach?
He was simply showing those who have to start from that end,he said from the beginning it’s best to go in front the chamber if you can..
We recommend watching the whole video as he cleaned it from the breach and briefly addressed how to clean from the muzzle. The standard 10/22 is not possible to clean from the breach with a solid rod without removing the barrel.
Buckshot , why don't you pay attention while watching a video? You know it's better to keep your mouth shut and appear ignorant rather than opening it and proving so.
@@edwardkawecki8101 Sounds to me like you need a girlfriend or do you prefer men?
He really screwed up in the barrel brushing. First, he was heavily bending the rod when pushing into the muzzle. The rod being bent caused it to have a high force and friction of the cround.
Secondly, when cleaning from the rear, he pulled the brush back thru very fast causing the attachments points between the brush and rod to the muzzle crown exactly the same way he warned against when he was cleaning from the muzzle. I does not matter whether it hit going in from the front r being pulled from the breach. Equally as bad and damaging.
KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years n the Craft
otis cleaning kit
Hoppe's shampoo and conditioner.🧔🏻♀️🧖🏽
Why would a training video about a specific firearm not use the specific firearm? Aftermarket parts are fine but he should have used a stock factory 10/22
They're the exact same tho
No safety glasses?
_Patches do not need to come out white._ …thank you! As a kid cleaning guns was an ordeal because I’d been taught that. Probably explains why I love Glocks so much 😂