Definitely agree that the current standards are overkill. Prime example: put touring car tires on a drift car and go rip around on asphault. Its so much fun, but proves that the current setups handle that even with ease. Im currently going down the road of exploring a whole different avenue of motor+esc exploration. Im experimenting with outrunner motors and AM32 esc’s on drift cars. So far Ive tested a 540 can diameter Holmes Hobbies stubby motor and am impressed. This option already dropped my esc+motor weight from 277g down to 134g. The next step is testing the 380 size outrunner, which should drop even more weight!!
I thought about trying the outrunner motors as well! My hesitation was that none of them are 10.5T, so hard to show that I am compliant with typical drift comp rule sets.
@@RoadsideRC oh wow. Ugh, I didn’t even think of that. Turn count based rules on brushless motors doesn’t make sense to me, especially in drifting. I also dont understand turn count based rules because brushless motors with the same turn count can have drastically different KV ratings, which would mean different speed motors, right?
If you're the one that designed that motor mount you'll have the file and you can use that and send it to send cut send to have that made out of different materials. How was the heat of the two motors? Also, I'd be very interested in what kind of tuning drifters do with their timing. I am coming from a couple years of drag racing and I'm very comfortable tuning a drag car but have no clue where to start on a drift car. I asked a few people and they said the timing is used to make quick adjustments leading me to think all you would use is turbo. Keep up the great work
Thanks! I use the free version of Fusion 360 - and it won't export a file type that is compatible with SendCutSend - or I am too stupid to figure it out. Very frustrating. I use timing to 1) reduce low end torque through timing on the can and boost, and 2) help with top-end wheelspeed using turbo. A common starting spot is 30* timing on the can, + 15* boost and + 15* turbo. Then tweak a little from there. No issue with heat using this little 380!
@@RoadsideRC amazing answer thank you so much. I've never personally use sendcutsend but I've heard great things about them. Email them and ask them what file type is needed maybe it's just the G-Code for a printer. (I do some 3D printing myself) but have never used send cut send So I apologize I can't help. I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out.
@@RoadsideRC in fusion360 free you have to export the .dxg from a 2d sketch. It’s frustrating, but doable. All my chassis plates were created that way.
4:48 I 3D printed an engine mount for a Norvel 061 and it didn't melt. USed regular PLA at normal print/infill settings, too, nothing fancy. I even have video of the test run on my channel! You should be fine thermally speaking..
@@RoadsideRC rc drifters talking about high temp is something that amaze me, its 10.5T motors not a bunch of turbo and boost plastic wheels and almost no friction and during competition rairly driven more then 18 feet of track and drifters talk like the engines is as hot as tjernobyl 1986. as a buggy racer im running a 6.5T 30 degrees endbell 24 boost 24 turbo 5 minutes runs and engine stays within 45-60 degrees of temp on no fan, nothing out of the ordinary in terms of temp among other racers.
@@extec101if you're taking about a drift competition I agree, a run doesn't last long enough to worry about temps. But more often than not, I'll run my car for a nearly continuous 2+ hours and alternate battery packs through it just in normal driving conditions so temperature becomes more of a concern for me during hangout or practice sessions (99% of my drifting).
@@Serial_Enthusiast tried some drifting before the cough19 with my olid AE tc3ft and with a brushed 17T engine and a 7600mah lipo i had the whole eavning drifting of about 3 hours total time in different stages on one pack, and dont eaven bothered to check for heat more then a few times to make sure that the motor where not more hot then i could hold my hand against it and it where like a fairly cold coffe.
I run a 8.5 turn 380 motor in my wl toys 124017 on carpet and it runs awesome. Even on 3s it barely gets warm. I need to get the time this weekend to speed run it and see how it does.
@@RoadsideRC yeah i had a 4.5 turn 540 size motor in it but the motor hits the center brace so it limits pinion gears so i went back to the 380 for different gearing options
@RoadsideRC i got a question i want to build a speed run car, and wondering what you would recommend. I am kind of back and forth on the AK 917 as there is a lot of mixed feelings with that car right now. Been wondering if a Tamiya Tt02 would be good or if there is something out there better. I know arrma has the vendetta on sale right now too for a good price.
@@RoadsideRC ok perfect there are 2 i am looking at the vendetta i think is a better deal because it comes with the brushless system and the infraction restomod is about 50.00 cheaper because it is brushed but i do have a hobbywing esc and 4.5 turn sensored motor already i could install in it. But it might be better to just get the vendetta
RCCartips I. The Filipines runs this same motor on his 1600 gram Tamiya LCG TT01. His little 8.5 turn is beating Xrays and Awsomatix equipped with 4 turn 540 cans. And YES I said TT01. Smaller powerful lightweight engines might be the future
depending on how you see it 380 brushless got more power today then 540 brushed mod motors had in the past so for the guys that running stock motors to limit speed 380 high turn count motors would be a way to go if they dont feel 25.5T stock is slow enough to keep the cars in the same speed range as racers had in the 90s. would be fun to form an intermediete class of modern cars and lipos but used with stock 27T brushed engines.
That does look pretty cool. I'd be curious of your impression going back to the mid motor. All the most experienced guys at my track run mid motor and some run the battery on/above the top plate. One thing they talk about a lot is how personal and different setups are. What's great for one person has another wondering how they can drive the car lol. How was the heat on the 380 after running it a bit?
Thank you for making these videos. I'm looking to buy a new radio, but there seems to be a lot to choose from. I'm currently running a flysky FS-GT3C. it was great when I started but now I'm noticing its limitations. I'm currently looking at upgrading to a FlySky Noble NB4, but I keep hearing mixed reviews. Should I just break down and go with a Futaba 4PM Plus or are there other 4 channel options that work well and won't break the bank?
Remember, your drift car is lightweight, which means nothing to the motor. Actually, for 380 motor, the rc needs to be lightweight. In my case, I'm not surprised at all, but the drift community will thank you
@RoadsideRC or you could try getting your own carbon fiber and do your own Harley and sbg did how to for making there own parts that be cool to see you'd just have to drill out the slots or router out the spots it be cool to see
@Organizedchaos-trucker Yes! I bought a small piece of carbon fiber from Amazon. Used a cut off wheel and grinding stone on a Dremel to cut the mount out. Took me 2 tries to get it right - but it works!
Interesting! Isn't that backwards from what I would want? That looks like it is designed to allow a 540 in place of where a 390 used to be. I need the opposite...but it might work anyway..
Have you tested the setup on a larger track with more grip? I also wonder about long-term reliability. Will it be equally reliable as the smaller scale applications it was designed for?
Seems to me it would be a better solution on the weight side of things, but I'm not a drifter so I don't know if there would be size regulations as there is in some competitions
come to think that you are dropping the weight of your drifter would it be posible with the smaller engine to run thinner engine cables 14avg instead of the 12avg?
@@RoadsideRC as you stated some grams her and there, might not be much but its something as it is used by stock class racers that try to be just above weight limit and they sometimes change eaven as little as from 12 to 13avg to save just a few grams.
Hey troy do you run mst or the d5 as your main car ? I want to buy a chassis kit to get started both mst rmx 2.5 kit and sakurad5mr v2 are same price which should i get ?
I am currently running the Redcat RDS as my main chassis. Between the MST and the Sakura - I would go with the Sakura. It has better performance straight out of the box with the box-stock setup.
@@mo0dz3dprints16 That would be my personal preference. If this is your first drift car - do you have a local community to help get you setup and tune?
Yeah my first drift car im on a tight budget i tried to 3dprint a chassis i got it good to a point but tolerances and quailty cant compare to a proper chassis unfortunately dont an rc drift communtiy here pretty small town so ive got a brushless motor and esc with batteries and skyrcgt5 controller with a hackslider gyro i wanna throw them on either a d5 or the new rmx2.5 kit hopefully to get my self indoor of rc drift 🙏🤣
I think it's a cool thing to know, but I don't think there's enough benefit to outweigh getting rid of that weight in the rear of my car. I can see it being beneficial to the Sakura D5 lite.
I'm using a 370 outrunner in my tacozuki drift project but I've wanted to try this in a 1/10 drift car too. I wonder what we are losing over the larger cans? :D
@@RoadsideRC I think for the D12 drifter it will more then enough, but I am not sure how my current MST RMX would faire, it's not nearly as nimble or light as your RDS for sure!
I don't see why it wouldn't work. With how little traction they have you could probably drift on a brushed silvercan yanked out of an old 1980s Tamiya buggy. Nitro drfit cars exist, fun fact. Drifting came in during nitro's twilight years, granted, but it did come on the scene early enough for a couple of RTR nitro drift cars to show up. Further proof you don't need much power for it. And the best part is the nitro drift cars still use RUBBER tires and go a LOT faster! With how brushless motors are a near limitless font of torque and how little traction the modern RC drift car has on its hard plastic tires you could get away with any motor and drift fine. czcams.com/video/8xFkvo0xHoA/video.html If this is possible then there's no reason a 380 won't drift like a boss. One of these days I'll pick up one of those old nitro drift cars. They're rarer than hen's teeth but if I can get my hands on one I will.
@@RoadsideRC They got a hell of a lot more grip, a hell of a lot less power than any brushless system this side of a Mini-Z, and they still slide just fine. You could probably drift your 2wd electric on a 27 turn silvercan brushed motor from a 1987 Tamiya Grasshopper and it'd perform just fine. Matter of fact I'm pretty sure I have just that exact motor in my stash *somewhere*. Has a little rust on the can but it runs perfectly. Hell I even have the MSC around here someplace...
can tell you i tested rc drifting with my old associated tc3ft that had a 17T brushed engine and it worked just fine to lay some loooong and nice drifts at the local track.
Motors labeled “.5” are 540 and all the other non .5 motors are actually 380 motors inside a 540 can. 380 very popular other parts of the world, lightweight, high rpm
I'm not sure your statement is accurate. This 380 motor is very much physically smaller and still labeled 10.5T. Also - brushed motors tend to not use the 0.5 rating - and are still 540 sized. You can physically see inside of them the components...
Loving this journey of less weight. Keep it going!!
More to come!
when the screen went black i thought my monitor went out lol
Oh no! When did the screen go black?
@@RoadsideRC in the video when I watched there’s a part where the screen just blacks out for a few seconds
Definitely agree that the current standards are overkill. Prime example: put touring car tires on a drift car and go rip around on asphault. Its so much fun, but proves that the current setups handle that even with ease. Im currently going down the road of exploring a whole different avenue of motor+esc exploration. Im experimenting with outrunner motors and AM32 esc’s on drift cars. So far Ive tested a 540 can diameter Holmes Hobbies stubby motor and am impressed. This option already dropped my esc+motor weight from 277g down to 134g. The next step is testing the 380 size outrunner, which should drop even more weight!!
I thought about trying the outrunner motors as well! My hesitation was that none of them are 10.5T, so hard to show that I am compliant with typical drift comp rule sets.
@@RoadsideRC oh wow. Ugh, I didn’t even think of that. Turn count based rules on brushless motors doesn’t make sense to me, especially in drifting. I also dont understand turn count based rules because brushless motors with the same turn count can have drastically different KV ratings, which would mean different speed motors, right?
@@gvngoheavy Correct - it is an unusual thing, but something I wanted to comply with anyway.
Awesome! You can use the motor analyser to check on the timing and Kv 👍🏻
Yes! You are right.
My Surpass Rocket 380 size 3300kv motor on the way 😏
@billylim127 Great! Very curious what you think!
Wow this is super interesting I'm actually looking at motor esc upgrade soon now I have a lot more thinking to do 😂
Sorry to make it more complicated for you! :)
Awesome Troy what a great video bro so glad I subbed you bro keep them coming!!
Thanks! More things are in the works!
That cage on rear end of the truck is sick.is it aluminum or composite plastic
It is plastic. It comes with the body.
@@RoadsideRC that is a sweet looking body.
If you're the one that designed that motor mount you'll have the file and you can use that and send it to send cut send to have that made out of different materials. How was the heat of the two motors?
Also, I'd be very interested in what kind of tuning drifters do with their timing. I am coming from a couple years of drag racing and I'm very comfortable tuning a drag car but have no clue where to start on a drift car. I asked a few people and they said the timing is used to make quick adjustments leading me to think all you would use is turbo. Keep up the great work
Thanks!
I use the free version of Fusion 360 - and it won't export a file type that is compatible with SendCutSend - or I am too stupid to figure it out. Very frustrating.
I use timing to 1) reduce low end torque through timing on the can and boost, and 2) help with top-end wheelspeed using turbo.
A common starting spot is 30* timing on the can, + 15* boost and + 15* turbo. Then tweak a little from there.
No issue with heat using this little 380!
@@RoadsideRC amazing answer thank you so much. I've never personally use sendcutsend but I've heard great things about them. Email them and ask them what file type is needed maybe it's just the G-Code for a printer. (I do some 3D printing myself) but have never used send cut send So I apologize I can't help. I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out.
@@RoadsideRC in fusion360 free you have to export the .dxg from a 2d sketch. It’s frustrating, but doable. All my chassis plates were created that way.
4:48 I 3D printed an engine mount for a Norvel 061 and it didn't melt. USed regular PLA at normal print/infill settings, too, nothing fancy. I even have video of the test run on my channel!
You should be fine thermally speaking..
Thanks!
I'd be interested to see what the difference in temp is after a full pack.
Ran it a local outdoor event over the weekend. No temp issues at all!
@@RoadsideRC nice!
@@RoadsideRC rc drifters talking about high temp is something that amaze me, its 10.5T motors not a bunch of turbo and boost plastic wheels and almost no friction and during competition rairly driven more then 18 feet of track and drifters talk like the engines is as hot as tjernobyl 1986.
as a buggy racer im running a 6.5T 30 degrees endbell 24 boost 24 turbo 5 minutes runs and engine stays within 45-60 degrees of temp on no fan, nothing out of the ordinary in terms of temp among other racers.
@@extec101if you're taking about a drift competition I agree, a run doesn't last long enough to worry about temps. But more often than not, I'll run my car for a nearly continuous 2+ hours and alternate battery packs through it just in normal driving conditions so temperature becomes more of a concern for me during hangout or practice sessions (99% of my drifting).
@@Serial_Enthusiast tried some drifting before the cough19 with my olid AE tc3ft and with a brushed 17T engine and a 7600mah lipo i had the whole eavning drifting of about 3 hours total time in different stages on one pack, and dont eaven bothered to check for heat more then a few times to make sure that the motor where not more hot then i could hold my hand against it and it where like a fairly cold coffe.
It ran really well.. couldn't believe it
I'm really glad I tried it!
I run a 8.5 turn 380 motor in my wl toys 124017 on carpet and it runs awesome. Even on 3s it barely gets warm. I need to get the time this weekend to speed run it and see how it does.
Nice! Those are normally a 380 sized motor that comes in them, correct?
@@RoadsideRC yeah i had a 4.5 turn 540 size motor in it but the motor hits the center brace so it limits pinion gears so i went back to the 380 for different gearing options
@RoadsideRC i got a question i want to build a speed run car, and wondering what you would recommend. I am kind of back and forth on the AK 917 as there is a lot of mixed feelings with that car right now. Been wondering if a Tamiya Tt02 would be good or if there is something out there better. I know arrma has the vendetta on sale right now too for a good price.
@@rickzfpv3118 100% NOT the TT-02!!!
There are a lot of great speed run vehicles out there from Arrma - that would be where I would look first.
@@RoadsideRC ok perfect there are 2 i am looking at the vendetta i think is a better deal because it comes with the brushless system and the infraction restomod is about 50.00 cheaper because it is brushed but i do have a hobbywing esc and 4.5 turn sensored motor already i could install in it. But it might be better to just get the vendetta
RCCartips I. The Filipines runs this same motor on his 1600 gram Tamiya LCG TT01. His little 8.5 turn is beating Xrays and Awsomatix equipped with 4 turn 540 cans. And YES I said TT01. Smaller powerful lightweight engines might be the future
Thanks for the feedback!!
depending on how you see it 380 brushless got more power today then 540 brushed mod motors had in the past so for the guys that running stock motors to limit speed 380 high turn count motors would be a way to go if they dont feel 25.5T stock is slow enough to keep the cars in the same speed range as racers had in the 90s.
would be fun to form an intermediete class of modern cars and lipos but used with stock 27T brushed engines.
interesting comparisons of the two motors mate
*😎Au👍like✅🖥fully viewed☑*
Thanks 👍
😎😎👍👍
That does look pretty cool. I'd be curious of your impression going back to the mid motor. All the most experienced guys at my track run mid motor and some run the battery on/above the top plate. One thing they talk about a lot is how personal and different setups are. What's great for one person has another wondering how they can drive the car lol. How was the heat on the 380 after running it a bit?
You got that right! Personal preference is a big deal.
Heat was just fine on the 380 - but I also have not thrown a bunch of timing at it yet.
Any more word on this ? I pre-order a LP-86 & this sounds like it might be solid for it
Thanks for checking in! I have been using this 380 motor now ever since this video. It works GREAT! Literally zero complaints.
Thank you for making these videos.
I'm looking to buy a new radio, but there seems to be a lot to choose from. I'm currently running a flysky FS-GT3C. it was great when I started but now I'm noticing its limitations. I'm currently looking at upgrading to a FlySky Noble NB4, but I keep hearing mixed reviews. Should I just break down and go with a Futaba 4PM Plus or are there other 4 channel options that work well and won't break the bank?
I have both the Noble and the 4PM - both are GREAT and I highly recommend both of them.
Remember, your drift car is lightweight, which means nothing to the motor. Actually, for 380 motor, the rc needs to be lightweight. In my case, I'm not surprised at all, but the drift community will thank you
Exactly! We aren't talking about a 1:10 basher with large rubber tires running in grass. The 380 should be plenty!
Theres also carbon fiber filaments
Yes! I thought about that!!!
@RoadsideRC or you could try getting your own carbon fiber and do your own Harley and sbg did how to for making there own parts that be cool to see you'd just have to drill out the slots or router out the spots it be cool to see
@Organizedchaos-trucker Yes! I bought a small piece of carbon fiber from Amazon. Used a cut off wheel and grinding stone on a Dremel to cut the mount out. Took me 2 tries to get it right - but it works!
FYI, metal mount is available. Search for: "MN86 390 to 540/550 Motor Converter with 13T Gear for MN86s MN86k MN86KS G500 1/12 RC Car Upgrade Parts
"
Interesting! Isn't that backwards from what I would want?
That looks like it is designed to allow a 540 in place of where a 390 used to be.
I need the opposite...but it might work anyway..
Yes, but its a round plate size of 540 with 4 holes. Backwards compatible. It's metal, drilling new holes is possible ;-)
@ynadworks8163 I ordered one to test it! Figured it is cheap enough to try!
@@ynadworks8163 Thanks for the tip!
Have you tested the setup on a larger track with more grip?
I also wonder about long-term reliability. Will it be equally reliable as the smaller scale applications it was designed for?
Yes! Tested in multiple environments now. Has been working great!
If anyone wants to do this to their R/C, Yeah Racing makes a 540 to 380 conversion plate. Made my "upgrade" 10x easier.
Yes! Link is here: amzn.to/3YQtAgl
And I included the link in the video description now.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Seems to me it would be a better solution on the weight side of things, but I'm not a drifter so I don't know if there would be size regulations as there is in some competitions
You are right! There are size regulations...but it is not on going too big and focused on the turn rating of the motor!
Cool!!
come to think that you are dropping the weight of your drifter would it be posible with the smaller engine to run thinner engine cables 14avg instead of the 12avg?
Yes! 100%! It drops some weight, but I am not sure how much.
@@RoadsideRC as you stated some grams her and there, might not be much but its something as it is used by stock class racers that try to be just above weight limit and they sometimes change eaven as little as from 12 to 13avg to save just a few grams.
Use send cut send and get them to print a carbon fiber mount
I really wanted to - but I am using the free version of Fusion360, and it doesn't output into a format they can use... argh!
@@RoadsideRC that really sucks
intresting!
Curious how it would work on a carpet track. If it would get too hot.
Good question!
I have tested it a few times since this video with no heat issues - but it was all on hard surfaces.
Hey troy do you run mst or the d5 as your main car ? I want to buy a chassis kit to get started both mst rmx 2.5 kit and sakurad5mr v2 are same price which should i get ?
I am currently running the Redcat RDS as my main chassis.
Between the MST and the Sakura - I would go with the Sakura. It has better performance straight out of the box with the box-stock setup.
@@RoadsideRC cheers man for the fast reply was sort of leaning towards the rmx 2.5 just cuase instock locally should i wait for sakurad5mr ?
@@mo0dz3dprints16 That would be my personal preference. If this is your first drift car - do you have a local community to help get you setup and tune?
Yeah my first drift car im on a tight budget i tried to 3dprint a chassis i got it good to a point but tolerances and quailty cant compare to a proper chassis unfortunately dont an rc drift communtiy here pretty small town so ive got a brushless motor and esc with batteries and skyrcgt5 controller with a hackslider gyro i wanna throw them on either a d5 or the new rmx2.5 kit hopefully to get my self indoor of rc drift 🙏🤣
I think it's a cool thing to know, but I don't think there's enough benefit to outweigh getting rid of that weight in the rear of my car. I can see it being beneficial to the Sakura D5 lite.
Reducing total weight is a great thing! There are always ways to move more weight reward.
I saw a video where they put a 380 on a 1/12 pan car😂 and it works I mean he put an extra mount. To compensate for the size
Makes sense for that application for sure!!!
How much did it affect your weight balance at the four corners?
Removed 80g off the rear. I forget what the % split was. Total car is just above 1000g (without battery or body), so would shift the balance a few %.
send cut send should be able to do CF and aircraft aluminum or any other material they have available if you can send them the files for it
Yes!!! I would love to do that, but my free version of Fusion 360 won't output the file they they use! Argh!
@@RoadsideRC darn sorry about that it was just a thought
@@Tmaxxnc It was a great thought! I guess I just need to spend the $$$
Harley and scale builder guild like to use send cut send
Yes! My free version of Fusion360 won't export a file type that SendCutSend recognizes....unless I am doing something wrong.
I'm using a 370 outrunner in my tacozuki drift project but I've wanted to try this in a 1/10 drift car too. I wonder what we are losing over the larger cans? :D
Nice!
Typically, the 380 will have less torque...but not sure if it matters with a lightweight drift car...
@@RoadsideRC I think for the D12 drifter it will more then enough, but I am not sure how my current MST RMX would faire, it's not nearly as nimble or light as your RDS for sure!
What is that car you use please?
The car is the Redcat RDS chassis: bit.ly/3TudA11
Thank you 👍
I don't see why it wouldn't work. With how little traction they have you could probably drift on a brushed silvercan yanked out of an old 1980s Tamiya buggy.
Nitro drfit cars exist, fun fact. Drifting came in during nitro's twilight years, granted, but it did come on the scene early enough for a couple of RTR nitro drift cars to show up. Further proof you don't need much power for it. And the best part is the nitro drift cars still use RUBBER tires and go a LOT faster! With how brushless motors are a near limitless font of torque and how little traction the modern RC drift car has on its hard plastic tires you could get away with any motor and drift fine. czcams.com/video/8xFkvo0xHoA/video.html If this is possible then there's no reason a 380 won't drift like a boss.
One of these days I'll pick up one of those old nitro drift cars. They're rarer than hen's teeth but if I can get my hands on one I will.
Those nitro cars are also AWD, just a different use case. Still fun though!
@@RoadsideRC They got a hell of a lot more grip, a hell of a lot less power than any brushless system this side of a Mini-Z, and they still slide just fine. You could probably drift your 2wd electric on a 27 turn silvercan brushed motor from a 1987 Tamiya Grasshopper and it'd perform just fine. Matter of fact I'm pretty sure I have just that exact motor in my stash *somewhere*. Has a little rust on the can but it runs perfectly.
Hell I even have the MSC around here someplace...
can tell you i tested rc drifting with my old associated tc3ft that had a 17T brushed engine and it worked just fine to lay some loooong and nice drifts at the local track.
Motors labeled “.5” are 540 and all the other non .5 motors are actually 380 motors inside a 540 can. 380 very popular other parts of the world, lightweight, high rpm
I'm not sure your statement is accurate. This 380 motor is very much physically smaller and still labeled 10.5T.
Also - brushed motors tend to not use the 0.5 rating - and are still 540 sized. You can physically see inside of them the components...
@@RoadsideRC i see, things mustve changed
🤔