Adam Ondra #58: No Fear - Belaying
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- čas přidán 22. 03. 2020
- ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
After the last week's episode dedicated to falling, we will take a look at the other side of the rope now. Belaying is an important part and I am definitely picky about my belayer when it comes to sending on my limit. I am not only speaking about safety but also about the speed of giving me slack quickly enough. Find out more about how it is to belay me and a few safety tips as well.
Credits:
Story by
ADAM ONDRA
Directed by
LACO KORBEL
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
Archive Footage
PETR PAVLÍČEK
BIG UP PRODUCTIONS
BERNARDO GIMÉNEZ
MARTIN KAŇŮREK
BEN DITTO
NICO FAVRESSE
PAVEL BLAŽEK
JAKUB PÍNA
Edited by
ADAM LIGOCKI
Production
JAKUB PÍNA
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Subs by
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
© 2020 AO Production s.r.o.
#climbingtips #belaying #climbing #safety #adamondra - Sport
1:39 “Adam’s most favorite belayer” that’s super cute
"Adam often leaves out protection, with pleasure" Soon we will have a newborn climbing baby.
Hahhahah
:DD unfortunatelly, in Czech language the joke does't exist :D.
@@pavelbelik6174 ako ze nie? Adam s potesenim rad vynechava ochranu
@@robertmifkovic6325 Well it could be if you say it your way, bu Ivka says "Adam vynechává jištění velmi často."... so what she says cannot result in any jokes in CZ :D
@@robertmifkovic6325 And at leat in Czech you dont say "ochranu" when talking about climbing
Adam girlfriend is worlds best belayer cos she belayed upto 9c
'I'm not that experienced with belaying, I've only belayed up to 9a+' - Adam
"Not such as an experienced belayer as my gf" well, if he has not belayed anyone that climbs to the same standard as himself then this would mean he is not as experienced as his gf ;)
@@theodorecraft718 I'm pretty sure his gf belayed him on silence, so she has the highest graded belay ever.
@@imahuman1996 Thats honestly pretty fucking sick
0:34 "Climbing is about being in a group."
[Alex Honnold has left the chat]
That's why I love Adam, he is humble and always gives credit to everyone around him.
Stay that way Adam, that's what makes you so special and so sympathic :)
I think the worst situation is when you are climbing at your maximum, when you are not confident and at this moment, when you look at the bottom, you see your belayer that is not looking at you.
That is so true.
Bastien Robin to be honest from a belayers perspective it’s often not beneficial because it’s hard to tell is it better to be staring at the climber or the rope or where your hands are going?
@@minas.831 ....... you need to be looking at the climber.. lol wut
@@minas.831 I get this if you are new to belaying. Then the climber should not go maximum. However, eperienced belayers have the rope management sort of automated, and should have eyes only at tthe climber.
But what about the cases when you can't see the climber? When they are above a rock or something?
"Adam's most favorite belayer" that made me smile a bit
What an excellent video! So much good information. Thanks!
You're a hero, im starting climbing and your video help me so much for beat my fear. Best tips ever
Great video. Very informative. I’m not a climber, but I love what you do and you answered several questions here.
So good this video Adam, thank you so much 🙂
At 2:32, do as he says, NOT as he does!
Also that fall in Flatanger is scary AF.
Epic video, maybe Adam's most important so far!
i was shocked as well - never ever get your hands of the brake hand
@@tobiassarnow495 He is just demonstrating what "not to do" while explaining that.
THANK YOU! Was about to post the same!
According to Petzl it's actually okay to use this technique to take out slack on lead. (at 5min30) czcams.com/video/FHdqjjyeTtg/video.html. Maybe not the best but still considered okay. What about Adam's technique at @5:01 though
Was literally about to post the same comment but wanted to see if anyone else caught it. "I have control the whole time" *as he takes his hand off the break*
5:39 No one is talking about this???
*Ok*
That’s comedy right there
Yeah I mean she's not any any actual danger and its just what it is. Adam is safe, she's safe, she's a bit stressed, as she should be. No problemos. They clearly respect each other and if she had a serious issue with it im sure he would listen,
@@user-dg9ti5gq4e I... I think you missed the joke buddy ^^
@@MisterK9739 Oh jezz I did lol
@@user-dg9ti5gq4e lmao you made my day sir.
Adams girlfriend is so cute. Very lovely person!
Very good English and accent Adam! You are easily understood as it is difficult for people to achieve this from that part of Europe.
I have always been interested in knowing what pro climbers think about their belayers, especially in competitions. This was great insight! I always try to watch them closely but after the first bolt they are out of the shot. I have never seen a belayer in competition use an auto-locking device and it is interesting how some still use a figure 8.
I've had many falls unnecessary by belayers not giving me slack fast enough when clipping on hard routes.
Great informative video Adam :)
i quarantee that this was helpful
Awesome Video !!
pěkné video, díky :)
Great video!
So cool thanks you!
6:43 "work as Quarantee"? pls don't remind me of my situation 😅
Same 🤣
guarantee
Pun intended ^_^
I love these videos! Can you do more about multi pitches?
Quarantine youtube is the best.
omg, no words, thank u Master Ondra, courage, keep on, and be safe on the walls!
Wait, did he just let go his breaking hand while talking about rope management.
Alter that said that you should never do this
Yeah, at 2:20...but maybe he wasn't actually belaying Ondra at the time and it was just to illustrate what not to do. I hope!
Yup
Yea what the duck was that I’m confused if he works at La Sportivana he should know how to belay properly with PbUS
He was demonstrating: what not to do.
3:50 damn.. It hurts...
Nice video :)
My favorite belayer is Connie Lightner. Shout out to the moms!
GREAT VIDEO at 7:13 anyone knows the Name of the song please?
"Adam's most favorite belayer" LOL
Does this remind anymore else of Petzl's "World's best Belayer" video?
dik za titlky uz sem byla ztracena
anyone else notice that radek said that the biggest problem was not controlling the brake rope when his hand was completely off it and then continued to slide his hand on it basically releasing the brake strand repeatedly?
I think that was to demonstrate what not to do. In the same way he stepped back from the wall when he said not too.
well, the first bit was obviously demonstrating how not to belay. And sliding your hand over the brake strand is actually good practice. It is too slow to always have one hand effectively holding on to the brake strand when you're lead belaying. If you'd do that like you belay toprope, you will short-rope the climber all the time, which is also dangerous for various reasons.
By sliding your hand over the rope, you keep agility/quick response, while always being ready to handle. If the climber falls you only need to tighten your fist in a reflex to fix the brake strand, in stead of having to find the the strand with your hand while you're looking at your climber.
Hope that makes sense
the videos are edited by people who are not necessarily climbers themselves so they could throw in clips that they think are good, but arent.
Awkwardswimmer his slide technique is not dangerous as he has a hand on the brake strand at all times, but there are better ways to belay in many situations.
Pieter van Loon sliding a hand down the brake strand is essential, but back up after taking in slack is generally laziness from using an assisted lock device as well as misread how much slack was appropriate. The slide upward is not dangerous, but a Pilot itself does not have a hard assisted braking force and this means if a climber falls while sliding then the hand can be dragged into the device. There are better methods, and there are ways to be better about slack management, which when shown on such a video is rather weird...
since the olympics are in 2021, we will get to see 51 more videos
stefano
Why can’t climbers choose their own belayer during championships/competitions?
Because a belayer can help the climber cheat
Adam I'm curious to know your viewpoint on wearing helmets.
The answer is simple, he never does
Martin he does use sometimes, I think I have seen him using one on ElCap in certain pitches, but yes he should probably use one more often...
You see him wearing a helmet around 7:40
don't ask top climbers about helmets
If your not experienced in falling I’ve seen multiple people end up with their feet above there head and then crack their head on the wall. Both in the gym and outside. Also depends on the route, overhangs it’s unlikely to hit your head fall but if you’ve been outside climbing much rock coming loss or coming down from above happens, I always climb with a helm. 20 plus years of climbing I live by safety never takes a vacation. As a climber it’s important to calculate risk.
Hey Adam besides personal preference, why don't you wear a helmet?
also wear rubber gloves so you dont get electrocuted when using your keyboard
@@offwithriss That's not possible I don't understand your point? Please explain further.
@@offwithriss that actually is a dumb ass answer
do you ever take clipping falls? if so, when was the last time?
10 meter fall clipping the chains a few weeks ago. The climb was the longest in they gym and the chains were at the end of a roof. The last 2 meters were very hot as you got close to the roof so I really started to sweat and I couldn't get a strong stance due to the positioning of the chains. I pulled out rope to clip, but felt my offhand slipping from the sweat, so I let go of the rope to readjust the hold and slipped. Softest fall I've ever had.
Is this still road to tokio?
Aaaaaand at 5:05 Adam's personally grabbed gri-gri and successfully blocked it furthermore the bottom end of the rope was uncontrolled too =) Thanks for nice belaying, thank you all)))
Thats the only way how to give way more slack in one pull. Seems you didnt have the chance to try that with someone ascending faster than this devices was designed for.
@@filda2005 yep, he could do no step near or backward czcams.com/video/dqrskjKwTfE/video.html
@@filda2005 and more czcams.com/video/FHdqjjyeTtg/video.html
That method is the one that PETZL says to use for giving a lot of slack, why don't you comment about something you actually have some experience about?
@@SeraphinoII No it's not. You can see that his hand is wrapped around (also below )the grigri, which is not safe. you should only hold it by that little edge on the side and block the top. I also saw Jakob Shubert doing the same thing in his Perfecto Mundo video, it's a common way of giving slack but an unsafe one.
Is 1:22 The Boulder Problem on El Cap?
That is, in particular that is the final move to the incut edge. Adam has some height and flexibility thus the lay back shouldering to the edge rather than karate kick.
Hi Adam, i’m learning so much about climbing from many youtube videos, including yours! I started climbing only this year and now that i’m in quarantene i can’t train... i’ve saw a beast maker 1000 on a czech website, but i can’t find it again, do you know where may i can find it? can’t wait to climb again
"When I'm belaying someone who's not as good as I am..."
4:33 Did Adam backclip a quickdraw there?
Why this episode called "belaying" and all we see is ondra climbing again?
I know the feel belaying climber with almost 2x my body weight (i am 48kilos and my friend around 80kilos), the moment he fell; damn i felt like my heart jump up to my throat
48 😳
Hi Adam did you now that the ol is canceled
6:42 when Quarantine messes with your english skills 🤣
Can you still onsight a multipitch if your partner has already attempted the multipitch?
Yeah, I’d say a good belayer is kind of important.
so there is some footage of adam climbing the book of hate!!!
czcams.com/video/mVDyk0EG8sc/video.html&feature=emb_logo
@@vagabundodelmundo86 there is no footage of him climbing in that video
Does somebody know which is the knot that Adam uses to climb? 0:08
i think he`s using a figure 8 but its hard to tell
First 😀
Okay
3:56 the pain of the girl is higher than of the adam
3:33
What belaying device was he using?
Katherine Strotman the instructor was first using a BD Pilot, then a Mammut Smart in other parts, showed an Edelrid Ohm talking about weight, and then I saw definitely a BD Atc and a Petzl GriGri from other folks.
@@Cacovangor Thanks so much for being so thorough with all that you saw!! That was extremely helpful :)
*How to protect your country from a pandemic: host the Olympics !* Just wait until afterwards, suddenly Japan will announce drastic measures.
Jištění je easy to learn ale hard to master (podle mě)
03:37 Why does it not count if the belayer gives you less slack?
If they keep the rope too tight they can end up taking some of your weight and helping you up the wall
A really good video, but I have seens Adam on another video, how he is belaying really bad.
im gonna find a new partner so I can belay at a higher level
song @7:16
Forth
Don't climb the same time as Adam. Man will startle you off the wall.
Is adam better than magnus ?
Adam maybe the goat, Magnus is a very good climber.
@@steven2982 i see that adam goes to a lot of champiansships more than magnus .
Why did the first belayer take his hand off the rope at 2 minutes he better not have been belaying Adam
Dude is Spiderman.
Third
Hahaha 9:17 he throws the rope around his leg
Crazy to think Alex did this without all that
Why neither you nor your belayer rarely wears a helmet in your video? 🤔
Road to Tokio +1 year. :/
And yet Radek pays out slack with the rope hand much too high at 2:41 - a(n auto)tuber cannot grip at this position, the ropehand must always stay BELOW THE DEVICE.
At least a Mammut Smart grips/locks in that position. I’ve tried it with a mass simulator (60kg rigid mass lead climbing fall while feeding out rope). It’s still a good idea to keep your hand below the device and don’t constantly unlock it. Another thing I’ve found out with the mass simulator is that at least the Mammut Smart doesn’t lock if you don’t have your hand on the rope.
@@Mike-oz4cv If it locks in this wrong position might heavily depend on rope diameter and state (how used is the rope).
This is the recommended hand position for paying out slack in lead belaying with this device.
@@GoodLuck-rh8tb Wot?
2:17 One of the most common mistakes is: ...
THEN HE DOES THE MOST COMMON AND BIGGEST MISTAKE:
NEVER LET GO OF THE BRAKING ROPE!!! NEVER!!! NOT EVEN FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSE IF HE IS BELAYING SOMEONE RIGHT NOW !!!
isn't the belay equipment automatic or at least half-automatic? it doesn't seem to be the classical belayer where the free rope has to be hold all the time
@@slimxjim3 It is half automatic :)
still you shouldnt do it
Third Comment :D
я из России
1:27 Anyone else recognize this as the famous "Boulder problem" insane to think Alex honnold free soloed this.
Alex soloed Freerider, not the same route Adam tried to flash
corona???????
2.20 WTF, that guy wants to teach us sth about belaying? No matter if it's an autoblocker, the right hand has to hold the rope, that's it.
His first example is what NOT to do. But no, you can slide your hand up the rope while still maintaining control of the brake strand.
czcams.com/video/NJHVgkchcbw/video.html
What I thought of for every second of this video
Not nearly enough detail. This isnt really helpful to teach beginners how to give good catches.
If this was supposed to be a way to "tame fear" from climbing and falling, then this should be about how to give the sweetest catches. I think only 50% of climbers know that their belayer is going to give them a great catch every time. The bad belayers just dont understand the basic principles behind the mechanics of a Hard-catch vs a Soft-catch.
Mani the Monkey explains it well, but also fails to demonstrate clearly why/how falling is controlled at the point where the rope initiates, and changes the direction of fall towards the protection you are last clipped into. At the point of initiation, the belayer's options are either to add force, remain a neutral force, or reduce force on the falling climber. If you jump as the rope begins to pull you up off the ground, then you will significantly reduce the effect of the direction change, i.e. the falling climber getting spiked back into the wall. Misjudging the jump COULD actually add force to the fall and make things much worse. If the belayer instinctively sits back on the rope at the moment the rope comes tight, more force would be added than if they had just stood there relaxed.
So your options are, sit there, dynamically sit down or "take", or "go with" the pull of the rope. Based on the weight differential and fall distance, you judge whether to do just a little by walking into and up the wall (like Mani's video shows well), or minimize the force as much as you can by jumping as high as you can muster at that perfect moment.
Most of the time, you want minimal slack, and a soft-catch. Most people misconstrue more slack out as a soft-catch, but in reality, it just increases the forces and the fall distance.
It wasn't for beginners, it was for advanced climbers to remind them of how important belaying is.
@@kolleykibber7807 If it was for advanced climbers, then it was even more worthless than I thought.
@@Mdjagg it is more of a reminder than a tutorial. Because the importamce of the belay is often underrated.
@@skilllessbeast7416 It should have been called something more specific then, imo. If this was supposed to be a way to "tame fear" from climbing and falling, then this should be about how to give the sweetest catches. I think only 50% of climbers know that their belayer is going to give them a great catch every time. The bad belayers just dont understand the basic principles behind the mechanics of a Hard-catch vs a Soft-catch.
Mani the Monkey explains it well, but also fails to demonstrate clearly why/how falling is controlled at the point where the rope initiates, and changes the direction of fall towards the protection you are last clipped into. At the point of initiation, the belayer's options are either to add force, remain a neutral force, or reduce force on the falling climber. If you jump as the rope begins to pull you up off the ground, then you will significantly reduce the effect of the direction change, i.e. the falling climber getting spiked back into the wall. Misjudging the jump COULD actually add force to the fall and make things much worse. If the belayer instinctively sits back on the rope at the moment the rope comes tight, more force would be added than if they had just stood there relaxed.
So your options are, sit there, dynamically sit down or "take", or "go with" the pull of the rope. Based on the weight differential and fall distance, you judge whether to do just a little by walking into and up the wall (like Mani's video shows well), or minimize the force as much as you can by jumping as high as you can muster at that perfect moment.
Most of the time, you want minimal slack, and a soft-catch. Most people misconstrue more slack out as a soft-catch, but in reality, it just increases the forces and the fall distance.
It was just a reminder on the importance of belaying. Not a tutorial. Take it as a reminder to appreciate your belayers a little more and maybe even plan to practice belaying.
Often, belayers aren't properly appreciated. Take Silence for example. Yes, Adam climbing that is enormously impressive but if you look at how difficult that was to belay and how intense it must have been for both of them. Give credit where credit is due
Hahaa im climbing to and im 12 and have 53kg and adams girl friend is more than 18 years and have 50kg
Funny how these recently Toprope certified people try to catch mistakes in belaying by trained and experienced professionals.
climbing with a rope destroys the art and beauty of climbing. .there's no substitute for free solo. . .it is the ultimate test in every climber's skill and psychology. .how one would assess a person ascending on a rockwall attached to a safety rope then midway or somewhere in a climb just decided to let himself go because he was assured by a lifeline. .alex climbed perfectly well it's the reason why he's still alive. .ondra would have died long time ago with those hasty and erratic climbs. .he depends so much on technology. .technology makes professional climbers look like amateurs. .the thrill and the meaning of struggle diminish. .rock climbing is only one way, you either go up or simply face your fate downward. .
It's been a long time since I've read something that stupid.