GREAT TIP S DAVE AS ALWAYS AMT WAS ALWAYS KNOWN FOR THEIR WARPAGE IN THEIR KITS.I HAVE THIS WRECKER AND MANY OTHER KITS.WITH FRAMES AND SIDES NOW SITTING ON THE SHEILF.UNTILL I GET BACK TO THEM.AT THIS YOUNG AGE OF 73 AFTER 63 YRS OF BUILDING MODELS I TELL MYSELF CALM DOWNAND START AGAIN TOMORROW.THESE KITS WONT BEAT ME WILL GET HER DONE. GREAT VIDEOS I LOVE WATCHING THEM.
That's a good corrective measure for the rear axle track width, with wrecker body installed those spacer tubes won't be visible. I wonder if there was a 1:1 prototype with that amount of body overhang that AMT based their kit on? I believe MPC's DM800 Mack mixer was based on a 1:1 with oddball drive axle location, kit was accurate to that truck although not to the majority of similar DM800's.
David, you could always cut the ends of the axles off and add some square stock. That would keep the brake backer plates up against the brake drums. It is more work I know, but what can you do when you can't paint, outside🌨️. My recommendation for cable is go to the sowing store & look for the heaviest black thread. Also I use bee's wax, rubbed on the thread. It make the tread stiff. It looks like the cable has weight & stays in place when you bend it around a pulley! I learned that from ship model builder that was making rigging, on sailing ship models.
You're headed in the right direction. But if I were you, I'd find some tubing to fit over the axle end that also fits inside of your extension sleeve to add more girth to the axle and make the whole affair more rigid. Peace and love.
Apparently the “to do” thing on this kit is to cut 1/8th of an inch off the width of the wrecker body. While I have the kit I’ve not built it yet so I can’t speak on if that fixes the issue.
Dave, that you need is a couple of 123 machinist blocks. They are relatively inexpensive and are absolutely square. I use these for a lot of my builds where I need relative squareness to another part. 2¢.
The wheels are now a just little bit too far out for my taste (also compared to similar models).😏 But as you say, a personal preference.😁😉 Anyway, with this comparatively “simple” technique, it definitely looks a lot better now than if it were built right out of the box.👍🏻😃
Great tip Dave. I have a question regarding the kit. In the video the treadplate appears to be smaller than the ALF kits, how does the wrecker body compare to Don Mills treadplate? Thanks
The Don Mills tread plate is much closer to what is on this truck,. The Don Mills is still a much tighter tread than this kit's, but would look decent together, much more so than on the ALF kits. I will try to get it on my next video if it will capture it.
Well it's a little hard to say. They were all different lengths due to the frame being warped, but I started with .200 tube and sanded them all one by one until I had the look I wanted.
GREAT TIP S DAVE AS ALWAYS AMT WAS ALWAYS KNOWN FOR THEIR WARPAGE IN THEIR KITS.I HAVE THIS WRECKER AND MANY OTHER KITS.WITH FRAMES AND SIDES NOW SITTING ON THE SHEILF.UNTILL I GET BACK TO THEM.AT THIS YOUNG AGE OF 73 AFTER 63 YRS OF BUILDING MODELS I TELL MYSELF CALM DOWNAND START AGAIN TOMORROW.THESE KITS WONT BEAT ME WILL GET HER DONE. GREAT VIDEOS I LOVE WATCHING THEM.
You’re a modeling genius David. Watching you helps me step out into more creative model building. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you for watching.
Great fix for that issue and I agree that it looks better with the tires sticking out that little bit. Progress is looking very good.
Thank you.
Great idea
Great update on the new build. looks great.
Very nice trick with the rear wheels. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you.
👍👍👍 cool stuff!
The wheels look much better now! Looks really good!
Definitely looks better that way. Great job!
You gotta love the AMT big rigs😂 Nice fix for the rear wheels, David👍 That does look much better. Happy modeling!
It's definitely better with the tires pushed out. Thanks for the advice and tips, I know for me, they'll come in handy.
Very simple and effective tips, Dave. I will have to try that on my old junker. I’m using spoke wheels to give mine an Aussie flavour.
Thank you. Those wheels will look great on it.
Glad to see you back i missed watching your videos the wrecker is gonna be awesome
That's a good corrective measure for the rear axle track width, with wrecker body installed those spacer tubes won't be visible. I wonder if there was a 1:1 prototype with that amount of body overhang that AMT based their kit on? I believe MPC's DM800 Mack mixer was based on a 1:1 with oddball drive axle location, kit was accurate to that truck although not to the majority of similar DM800's.
I think it looks better with the tires pushed out as well. I'll be watching
David, you could always cut the ends of the axles off and add some square stock. That would keep the brake backer plates up against the brake drums. It is more work I know, but what can you do when you can't paint, outside🌨️. My recommendation for cable is go to the sowing store & look for the heaviest black thread. Also I use bee's wax, rubbed on the thread. It make the tread stiff. It looks like the cable has weight & stays in place when you bend it around a pulley! I learned that from ship model builder that was making rigging, on sailing ship models.
Thank you for the great tip!
@@davidparsleyscustomscaleemerge You're welcome! Always like to help fellow modelers.
nice job
Thank you.
You're headed in the right direction. But if I were you, I'd find some tubing to fit over the axle end that also fits inside of your extension sleeve to add more girth to the axle and make the whole affair more rigid. Peace and love.
Thank you, yes that is probably my next step, after I slept on it last night that thought was running though my mind.
Apparently the “to do” thing on this kit is to cut 1/8th of an inch off the width of the wrecker body. While I have the kit I’ve not built it yet so I can’t speak on if that fixes the issue.
Dave, that you need is a couple of 123 machinist blocks. They are relatively inexpensive and are absolutely square. I use these for a lot of my builds where I need relative squareness to another part. 2¢.
I actually sold all of mine when I stopped working as a machinist a few years ago, I had 3 sets, so they all went with the tool box.
@@davidparsleyscustomscaleemerge too bad to hear that. Hope you got a decent amount for the lot.
That would be pretty accurate
Thank you.
The wheels are now a just little bit too far out for my taste (also compared to similar models).😏 But as you say, a personal preference.😁😉 Anyway, with this comparatively “simple” technique, it definitely looks a lot better now than if it were built right out of the box.👍🏻😃
Thank you. Yes it is a personal touch for sure.
Get some braided fishing line for cable
That's exactly what I wanted to suggest too.
Thank you, I will look for some today.
Great tip Dave. I have a question regarding the kit. In the video the treadplate appears to be smaller than the ALF kits, how does the wrecker body compare to Don Mills treadplate? Thanks
The Don Mills tread plate is much closer to what is on this truck,. The Don Mills is still a much tighter tread than this kit's, but would look decent together, much more so than on the ALF kits. I will try to get it on my next video if it will capture it.
@@davidparsleyscustomscaleemerge Thanks Dave
How long did you make your spacers.
Well it's a little hard to say. They were all different lengths due to the frame being warped, but I started with .200 tube and sanded them all one by one until I had the look I wanted.