little tip, just use some acetone on a cloth or paper towel to clean of any residual polyester filler on your tools, you can actually thin down the filler with methylated spirit to paint on to a surface as well or if you find your filler has got a bit to thick to work with
"Middle and pull out" - brilliantly simple. I'd been dragging across and having to go back and fill the dip. Very sharp scrapers, so I'll be sharpening mine a lot better now.
Yes. Bondo is a popular filler in the U.S. Minwax also makes an epoxy wood filler, and it's available in small cans (6 fl. oz.) which will be cheaper and more convenient for small repairs.
I love your accent and how you almost sound like a teacher.....GREAT.. thank you..the best how to use "bonda' or whatever it is called in England... A tin is a can...I get it... Please, more instructional videos.... Thanks Jay
I do acrylic nails. You need a monomer (liquid) and a polymer (powder). You mix it and it turns into a goop like wax, as it’s hardening it heats up. Then it turns into a hard kind of plastic. You can file it to shape and very thin if you need. It’s also flexible. It also sets fast with the room is hot, and slow when it’s cold. Acrylic is a really strong smell aswell, and the smell goes away after it has dried. It sounds so similar
Another great video! I always use the cheap plastic spatula thing for taking the filler out the pot. Pretty much all it’s good for and stops cross contamination!
I used Ronseal wood filler last night, thought I'd used too much hardener. Gave it a mix but didn't do it too long, put it in a door frame, roughly an inch and a half by inch and a half and its still soft the next day. Lesson learned to give a little bit more hardener and a really good mix 🤦♀️
I've never been very good at filling (I am just DIY level) - but I will definitely try filling from the middle to the outside next time. Thanks for making / sharing
I filled a load of MDF window sills with this, sanded flush, looked perfect and painted up nice. Then the MDF shrunk and now I've got all these perfect round screw holes sticking 1mm above the surface lol.
My problem with filling approx 6mm round blind holes in pine wood is that the air in the hole pushes the filler out as you spread. The trapped air kind of forms a bubble. I've never been able to get a smooth fill with one application of filler with such holes. I wait till it's dry, then apply another layer on top and let that dry thoroughly before sanding. Just now I even tried using a wooden tooth pick to release the air as I push the filler into the hole, but it didn't work. I'm using the standard Ronseal wood filler, not the high performance one with hardener. I've even thought of drilling a very small hole (1mm) all the way through the blind hole so that the air can escape. My preferred method for such blind holes is to glue in a wood plug with PVA, then wait 24 hrs before sawing it off and sanding down the excess. But today I had neither wood plugs, nor non-fluted dowel handy, so I had to resort to wood filler.
‘Clarty’ stuff - I wonder how many of the audience understand that? (I do 😉) Good Video all round.👍 Andy you need to claim the saying ‘if you can feel a dent you will see a dent when it’s painted’ - rather like Diresta and ‘If it looks straight........😂
Well to be sure I answer you I will explain both. First the Reference to Diresta (a you tube filmmaker) - czcams.com/video/_6EajWZTfcw/video.html and Clarty - well int he North East it refers to mud particularly the tenacious stuff that sticks to the sole of yer wellies but it can also mean something messy and disgusting - www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Clarty
Can you chisel this stuff when hard? I need to hang some doors in old frames and multiple sets of different size hinges have been in and the frame is destroyed. Was going to use this and start from scratch
Thanks for the video Andy, I normally use toupret with very good results, doesn't dry as quick, but good stuff. i'm really loving your channel as I fellow handyman. Watched a lot of vids over the last week. Very handy tips and nice to see other view on things. Keep up the good work.
Hi, how long would it take to harden without much of a hardener? I tried today and after 4 hours it’s still soft and tacky. I suspect that I didn’t add enough of the hardener.
Always been terrified of trying this because of short work time, but your video is v helpful. Our Tudor door posts need attention where the flagstones get slightly damp. No mention here of using for cracks (in door panels which will be painted). As another post suggested I think enlarge the hairline crack first? Great accent!
Fantastic video, thanks for explaining the chemistry. I wanted slow down the reaction because I needed to apply a lot of filler so didn't want it going off while I was working - big mistake, it just never set! The nature of what I'm filling means I can't remove all the uncured filler. If it's a catalytic process that can be triggered just by using a knife with a residue of curing filler to scoop new filler wouldn't putting curing filler over the top catalyse the filler underneath? Regardless, I have to give it a go, if the filler below remains squidgy it probably won't matter anyway
Gosforth Handyman Well - it seems to have worked! No idea if it's still squidgy underneath but if it is the top has hardened plenty - I've just spent ages sanding the surface to be flush with the surround and no sign of give. My bodge with using low expansion foam as a substrate seems to have worked nicely too. Another question if I may - I do find two part filler annoying to work with compared with the premixed single part stuff when I can get away with the latter. I much prefer the extra working time and ease of cleaning tools etc. But is the single part wood filler - Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler, say - really any different to the all purpose fillers like Ronseal Smooth Finish Multipurpose Filler? Do you have any videos on single part fillers? I couldn't find anything just now. Now to watch your video on painting MDF! Love your work, wish I'd discovered you months ago!
Just started to watch this Andy but I’ve to nip to the workshop, I’ve got wifi there so I’ll watch the rest of the video cause it sounds interesting 👍😄
Ronseal is good filler. I used white and natural and they are similar to a car filler, I think! Mix in small portion because go's off in a sort amount of time to what you said. 🙄
Hello, helpful video - thanks! Would this be any good for patching up/evening out 140yr old wood treads of stairs? It's not actually the wood that needs filling but evening out the patchy deeply chipped paint, epoxy and who knows what has been gooped on them over the years. I'll be painting them again and putting a runner down the middle, so just looking to get an even surface on the outer tread. I've tried paint remover but its not touching some of the stuff caked on them. Thanks again
Can I use this to fill a gap in a window frame? The gaps are at the bottom where the window opens and closes, I'm a bit scared of accidentally preventing the window from opening and closing. Thanks!
I’m finding this 2 part filler a nightmare. Trying to fill an external pine door so much moulding and shaping required x this just goes off far too fast!
Great video. Would you recommend the same filler for hairline cracks on the wall as well? Hairline cracks usually comes back perhaps due to shrinkage of filler. I understand that I have to cut the hairline cracks open a bit.
Hi Bonny Lad! Good video. I am trying to use this to fill a hole on the side of a piece of 4 x 2 Because the filler sticks to everything, is there anything I can use to mask off the filler to get a straight line? I would use another thin piece of wood, but it would stick to the filler...
Thanks for the useful info, got myself a 1.5kg tub of bonda to do some repair work on the tudor boards of a house. have you had any success using bonda to splice new pieces of timber into old ones where you've had to cut out rotted sections of the old timber? Just wondering how bonda would do on a non dynamic joint (ie a straight piece of timber). Or are you best off using one of the flexible 2 part fillers like repair care/timbabuild etc? Would definately use repair care or timbabuild on joints/corners but wondering if bonda would work okay to make a durable splice on straights
An excellent demonstration - thank you. I'm having to build up the bottom legs of a number of MDF radiator covers (why are they all 82 cm high?) by about 7 cm. I was thinking of either using MDF or simply creating a former for a 2-part wood filler to create the extra high - I know this can be readily sanded down to a very smooth finish. I will be doing this before assembling them as they come in a flat-pack - any suggestions on the viability of using a former that will be easy to remove from the wood filler once it is dry?
So really the 2 pack filler sets like a ‘rock’ hard lump etc - I also use a very safe👉 1 Pack(Water Based) 👉 GSA fast filler interior/exterior that works really good on masonry surfaces, But it cannot be used over metal substrates ok
New to this type of thing so apologise if I am place this request on the wrong page. I am looking for advice on door closers, especially Briton 2003V door closer. I have tried every configuration, followed the installation diagram, but alas, I can not adjust it enough to close the (B@$$*y) door. Any advice would be gratefully received.Wits end. Stephen.
What do you think of the ronseal 2 part filler? I bought a tin of the ronseal and when I mixed it up it started to set to quick and I couldn't work with it so I thought I added to much hardener so I tried again and they same thing happened.
Hi, I use car body filler and have a can about the same size as yours, I have had it for about four years now and I am getting near the end of the tin. I use spackle to fill small worm holes or where a nail has been but use the filler for anything bigger as it doesn't shrink like spackle
Your videos are really fab and you seem like a really nice, genuine and stand up guy! Quick question - my dogs chewed our banister and skirting boards, quiet deep in some areas - could I use this for filling the wood? I need to create edges and corners. Thank you
Does anyone know how to make this filler thinner so it can be applied to the snooker cue shaft? With or without hardner it is very thick so it won't move along the shaft.
I'm planning to fill the side of a bath that's gotten rusty. It's a gaping hole and needs a fair bit of filler. I tried silicone covered in caulk, then oil based undercoat, then white Hammerite. Didn't work. Customer said its cracking. I used a hairdryer to dry the caulk and paints. The silicone had already gone off. I only used it because the gap needed such a lit of filler otherwise I'd have used the epoxy putty stuff, which is expensive. Yes I know nothing is supposed to stick to silicone!
Depending on the size of the hole I'd suspect you'll need a bit more than just filler for this - might be worth looking in to fiberglass mesh repair kits. Any additional rust will break the filler though. Tricky one - replace the bath if possible.
Gosforth Handyman Replacement is her long term plan, I bought Upol Easy 1 Body Filler from Halfords (epoxy for cars) I'll take more of the outer rusted bits off so I can sand it flush and paint it. It's an interesting project, and she's a cute French girl 😊
I’ve seen you use this two part filler for small plasterboard holes in other videos - is there a reason you prefer it for that rather than an ‘easier’ ready mixed filler? Thanks for the useful videos!
little tip, just use some acetone on a cloth or paper towel to clean of any residual polyester filler on your tools, you can actually thin down the filler with methylated spirit to paint on to a surface as well or if you find your filler has got a bit to thick to work with
Thank you for filming and posting! I'm very new to DIY so I found your explanation and detail unbelievably helpful in 2021. Cheers! Kent, UK!
"Middle and pull out" - brilliantly simple. I'd been dragging across and having to go back and fill the dip. Very sharp scrapers, so I'll be sharpening mine a lot better now.
over 2 years now and I'm still waiting for the second part of this series!
I guess not all 2-parts are actually 2 parts.
The filler has two parts...not the show!
Really helpful. Kitchen cupboard door hanging off, needed instructions, it's done. Thank you so much.
Yes. Bondo is a popular filler in the U.S. Minwax also makes an epoxy wood filler, and it's available in small cans (6 fl. oz.) which will be cheaper and more convenient for small repairs.
I love your accent and how you almost sound like a teacher.....GREAT.. thank you..the best how to use "bonda' or whatever it is called in England... A tin is a can...I get it... Please, more instructional videos.... Thanks Jay
Really useful tip about pulling the knife from the middle of the dent. Thanks, another great vid. All the best for 2018
Cheers Robert and happy new year too! 👍
Fixed a rotten door step with hardener and filler, thanks for the tips!
Really appreciate this video - Sometimes its hard to be the adult in life and videos like this help me ascend towards my manly hood
I do acrylic nails. You need a monomer (liquid) and a polymer (powder). You mix it and it turns into a goop like wax, as it’s hardening it heats up. Then it turns into a hard kind of plastic. You can file it to shape and very thin if you need. It’s also flexible. It also sets fast with the room is hot, and slow when it’s cold. Acrylic is a really strong smell aswell, and the smell goes away after it has dried. It sounds so similar
Thanks, I've used this stuff before and it's great! Its always good to learn more about the basics! Keep it up!
Thanks so much! 👍😎
Great stuff, looking forward to this years content. Great having a CZcamsr like this so close to home.
Cheers Craig! 👍
The Geordie nation salutes you! Congrats on 5000+ subs
Ha - cheers!! 👍😀
Another great video! I always use the cheap plastic spatula thing for taking the filler out the pot. Pretty much all it’s good for and stops cross contamination!
I used Ronseal wood filler last night, thought I'd used too much hardener. Gave it a mix but didn't do it too long, put it in a door frame, roughly an inch and a half by inch and a half and its still soft the next day. Lesson learned to give a little bit more hardener and a really good mix 🤦♀️
Best tutorial on -
2 part filler I’ve seen 🤓👌🏼
Cheers Gary!
I've never been very good at filling (I am just DIY level) - but I will definitely try filling from the middle to the outside next time. Thanks for making / sharing
No worries! 👍
I filled a load of MDF window sills with this, sanded flush, looked perfect and painted up nice. Then the MDF shrunk and now I've got all these perfect round screw holes sticking 1mm above the surface lol.
never use mdf for sills rip it out and replace with pine.
I personally mix my fillers on silicone that I get from the dollar store (normally a mat meant for rolling dough)
When it's at the gel phase of setting it's quite easy to shape with knives and chisels which is particularly useful
My problem with filling approx 6mm round blind holes in pine wood is that the air in the hole pushes the filler out as you spread. The trapped air kind of forms a bubble. I've never been able to get a smooth fill with one application of filler with such holes. I wait till it's dry, then apply another layer on top and let that dry thoroughly before sanding. Just now I even tried using a wooden tooth pick to release the air as I push the filler into the hole, but it didn't work. I'm using the standard Ronseal wood filler, not the high performance one with hardener. I've even thought of drilling a very small hole (1mm) all the way through the blind hole so that the air can escape. My preferred method for such blind holes is to glue in a wood plug with PVA, then wait 24 hrs before sawing it off and sanding down the excess. But today I had neither wood plugs, nor non-fluted dowel handy, so I had to resort to wood filler.
Thanks, I use `Easy` bodyfiller, godsend today filling 5mm gaps at bottom of doorframes. took it down with multitool then built it back up!
Congratulations on the 5+k subscribers well deserved. Oh and a great tutorial as well.
Barry (Wirral)
Cheers Barry! 👍
‘Clarty’ stuff - I wonder how many of the audience understand that? (I do 😉) Good Video all round.👍
Andy you need to claim the saying ‘if you can feel a dent you will see a dent when it’s painted’ - rather like Diresta and ‘If it looks straight........😂
Ha - I was thinking that when I watched it back!! 😀👍
Norman Boyes Translation please?
Clarty or the Diresta bit?
Norman Boyes Clarty, dont remember hearing the other word but I'd like to know.
Well to be sure I answer you I will explain both. First the Reference to Diresta (a you tube filmmaker) - czcams.com/video/_6EajWZTfcw/video.html
and Clarty - well int he North East it refers to mud particularly the tenacious stuff that sticks to the sole of yer wellies but it can also mean something messy and disgusting - www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Clarty
Can you chisel this stuff when hard? I need to hang some doors in old frames and multiple sets of different size hinges have been in and the frame is destroyed. Was going to use this and start from scratch
Thanks for the video Andy, I normally use toupret with very good results, doesn't dry as quick, but good stuff. i'm really loving your channel as I fellow handyman. Watched a lot of vids over the last week. Very handy tips and nice to see other view on things. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Bill! 👍🛠
Hi, how long would it take to harden without much of a hardener? I tried today and after 4 hours it’s still soft and tacky. I suspect that I didn’t add enough of the hardener.
Always been terrified of trying this because of short work time, but your video is v helpful. Our Tudor door posts need attention where the flagstones get slightly damp. No mention here of using for cracks (in door panels which will be painted). As another post suggested I think enlarge the hairline crack first?
Great accent!
Fantastic video, thanks for explaining the chemistry. I wanted slow down the reaction because I needed to apply a lot of filler so didn't want it going off while I was working - big mistake, it just never set! The nature of what I'm filling means I can't remove all the uncured filler. If it's a catalytic process that can be triggered just by using a knife with a residue of curing filler to scoop new filler wouldn't putting curing filler over the top catalyse the filler underneath? Regardless, I have to give it a go, if the filler below remains squidgy it probably won't matter anyway
Yes - should do! Might take a while but it should eventually harden. 👍
Gosforth Handyman Well - it seems to have worked! No idea if it's still squidgy underneath but if it is the top has hardened plenty - I've just spent ages sanding the surface to be flush with the surround and no sign of give. My bodge with using low expansion foam as a substrate seems to have worked nicely too.
Another question if I may - I do find two part filler annoying to work with compared with the premixed single part stuff when I can get away with the latter. I much prefer the extra working time and ease of cleaning tools etc. But is the single part wood filler - Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler, say - really any different to the all purpose fillers like Ronseal Smooth Finish Multipurpose Filler?
Do you have any videos on single part fillers? I couldn't find anything just now. Now to watch your video on painting MDF! Love your work, wish I'd discovered you months ago!
Just started to watch this Andy but I’ve to nip to the workshop, I’ve got wifi there so I’ll watch the rest of the video cause it sounds interesting 👍😄
Cheers Gary - hey you're nearly at 300 subs! Awesome work! 👍 Looking forward to your next vid!
Gosforth Handyman Thank you Andy, even you saying that made it jump another one 👍😄
Very useful video. Thanks for posting it. 👍
Really helpful, thanks very much 👍🙋♀️☯️
As you said you have to work very quickly I'm guessing this won't work on huge gaps right? like I'm talking 40cm long door frame gap etc
Can you use this on wood that was burned on a fence?
6 years on, that £40 7KG tub is now a £73 tub!!!😱
Ronseal is good filler. I used white and natural and they are similar to a car filler, I think! Mix in small portion because go's off in a sort amount of time to what you said. 🙄
Gosforth Woop Woop ! Hello from Ponteland !
Great video very informative
Hello, helpful video - thanks! Would this be any good for patching up/evening out 140yr old wood treads of stairs? It's not actually the wood that needs filling but evening out the patchy deeply chipped paint, epoxy and who knows what has been gooped on them over the years. I'll be painting them again and putting a runner down the middle, so just looking to get an even surface on the outer tread. I've tried paint remover but its not touching some of the stuff caked on them. Thanks again
Can I use this to fill a gap in a window frame? The gaps are at the bottom where the window opens and closes, I'm a bit scared of accidentally preventing the window from opening and closing. Thanks!
Good stuff as usual Andy 👍👍👍
Cheers Nick!
I’m finding this 2 part filler a nightmare. Trying to fill an external pine door so much moulding and shaping required x this just goes off far too fast!
Is there a video that you use a light varnish after filling? So the filler doesn’t show after? Great video by the way!
Great video. Would you recommend the same filler for hairline cracks on the wall as well? Hairline cracks usually comes back perhaps due to shrinkage of filler. I understand that I have to cut the hairline cracks open a bit.
thanks for the great video. if using on pine floorboards that will later be painted white, what colour filler is best in your opinion?
I wish they produced a 1 hour version. Needed for larger jobs like floors.
Hi Bonny Lad!
Good video.
I am trying to use this to fill a hole on the side of a piece of 4 x 2
Because the filler sticks to everything, is there anything I can use to mask off the filler to get a straight line?
I would use another thin piece of wood, but it would stick to the filler...
Thanks for the useful info, got myself a 1.5kg tub of bonda to do some repair work on the tudor boards of a house.
have you had any success using bonda to splice new pieces of timber into old ones where you've had to cut out rotted sections of the old timber?
Just wondering how bonda would do on a non dynamic joint (ie a straight piece of timber).
Or are you best off using one of the flexible 2 part fillers like repair care/timbabuild etc?
Would definately use repair care or timbabuild on joints/corners but wondering if bonda would work okay to make a durable splice on straights
An excellent demonstration - thank you.
I'm having to build up the bottom legs of a number of MDF radiator covers (why are they all 82 cm high?) by about 7 cm. I was thinking of either using MDF or simply creating a former for a 2-part wood filler to create the extra high - I know this can be readily sanded down to a very smooth finish. I will be doing this before assembling them as they come in a flat-pack - any suggestions on the viability of using a former that will be easy to remove from the wood filler once it is dry?
So really the 2 pack filler sets like a ‘rock’ hard lump etc - I also use a very safe👉 1 Pack(Water Based) 👉 GSA fast filler interior/exterior that works really good on masonry surfaces, But it cannot be used over metal substrates ok
Nice video!
New to this type of thing so apologise if I am place this request on the wrong page. I am looking for advice on door closers, especially Briton 2003V door closer. I have tried every configuration, followed the installation diagram, but alas, I can not adjust it enough to close the (B@$$*y) door. Any advice would be gratefully received.Wits end. Stephen.
What do you think of the ronseal 2 part filler? I bought a tin of the ronseal and when I mixed it up it started to set to quick and I couldn't work with it so I thought I added to much hardener so I tried again and they same thing happened.
It's great - you need golfball to pea (filler to hardener) - mix for about 20 seconds then you should have about 5 mins working time. 👍
Hi, I use car body filler and have a can about the same size
as yours, I have had it for about four years now and I am getting near the end
of the tin. I use spackle to fill small worm holes or where a nail has been but
use the filler for anything bigger as it doesn't shrink like spackle
Your videos are really fab and you seem like a really nice, genuine and stand up guy! Quick question - my dogs chewed our banister and skirting boards, quiet deep in some areas - could I use this for filling the wood? I need to create edges and corners. Thank you
Hi there - yes, it's great for that. Takes a bit of practice but once you get the hang of it you'll not see the damage at all. 👍
Good video thanks buddy
What's the biggest hole you can fill with wood filler? Or are they mainly for small holes made from nails, etc
Don't think there's a depth, but you will have to layer it.
I find that it makes a good 'instant' wood glue for small stuff.
Expensive, but if time is a big issue,...
Brilliant andy,
2018... Oh those halcyon days
A useful video Andy. Thanks.
Cheers Andy! 👍
Not sure if you’ll see this as it’s an old video! Is it possible to use two part wood filler WITHOUT the hardener to extend it’s drying time? Thanks!
It won't go off.
Does anyone know how to make this filler thinner so it can be applied to the snooker cue shaft? With or without hardner it is very thick so it won't move along the shaft.
Why do you need to do this? I would perhaps try a different brand of filler or even a car body filler - tends to be a finer finish. 👍
Does this have a really strong smell
hi mate. could u recommend a suitable exterior wood filler to use on my wooden garage doors???
i will be painting them once repaired, filled & sanded.
Yes - this! Make sure it's nice and dry and clear of debris before you fill. 👍
I'm planning to fill the side of a bath that's gotten rusty. It's a gaping hole and needs a fair bit of filler. I tried silicone covered in caulk, then oil based undercoat, then white Hammerite. Didn't work. Customer said its cracking. I used a hairdryer to dry the caulk and paints. The silicone had already gone off. I only used it because the gap needed such a lit of filler otherwise I'd have used the epoxy putty stuff, which is expensive. Yes I know nothing is supposed to stick to silicone!
Depending on the size of the hole I'd suspect you'll need a bit more than just filler for this - might be worth looking in to fiberglass mesh repair kits. Any additional rust will break the filler though. Tricky one - replace the bath if possible.
Gosforth Handyman Replacement is her long term plan, I bought Upol Easy 1 Body Filler from Halfords (epoxy for cars) I'll take more of the outer rusted bits off so I can sand it flush and paint it. It's an interesting project, and she's a cute French girl 😊
Ah, go back to the silicone and replace it every week or so. 👍
How can I moisten the unmixed high performance wood filler if it's a bit dried out?
You can't. Even if you knew what proportions of the correct organic solvents to use, they would be difficult to get hold of.
Happy 2018?! Wait till you get to 2020, you’ll have a laugh 😂
Great, helps a lot. Thanks.
Thankyou from Wallsend, Tyne and Wear 👍
No worries Neil - hello to Wallsend! 👊
I’ve seen you use this two part filler for small plasterboard holes in other videos - is there a reason you prefer it for that rather than an ‘easier’ ready mixed filler? Thanks for the useful videos!
The epoxy gives a better finish and can be painted straight away. 👍
Nooice!
HAHAHAHA "other brands of dips are available" 🤣🤣🤣
I presume it can take screws
I am watching in 2020
To long
Too much talk....
M
Talk talk talk
nearly 2 and a half minutes of waffle