Setting Up the Creality Halot One
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- čas přidán 16. 12. 2021
- Welcome to Monocure3D Protips! Today, we will be unboxing and setting up the Creality Halot One. Watch the full video to see the unboxing, tips on how to level the build plate, guidelines on how to set up and slice your model in Chitubox or Lychee, and finally how to do your first print! We will also show you the process on how to get the best and clearest results out of the Pro Crystal Clear resin. This resin is based on our advanced TUFF™ formulation, giving the same incredible high tensile strength. Still, it boasts non-yellowing properties that allow for a high level of clarity through the printed model.
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.::TIMESTAMPS::.
00:16 Unboxing
03:36 Printer's Specifications
04:27 Creality Halot One Review
15:37 Slicing with Chitubox and UV Tools
19:03 Slicing with Lychee
20:50 3D Printing and Post Process
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I subbed because you actually went into the device issues and how to actually get a print to work. I didnt even know i had to put the file i had into the slicer and convert it to a file that the printer would "see". I have never printed anything before so this is a learning process. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the positive comments! It keeps us making them.
Learned more in this video than the last 10hrs of others.
👍🏻
Absolutely
Great video as always and surprising you don’t have as big audience as you should for the quality of these videos. Keep it up guys.
Thanks for the positive comments!!
Thanks for this just what I needed, great info regarding the slicer limitations
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video! I bought this machine for around 125 dollars a few weeks ago, it was a bargain and I don't regret it. It has all the features I need for my first resin printer, they only problems I have with it are more problems with resin printing it self. I do have some wifi connection issues, it can't seem to connect to my mesh network.
I also upgraded the fans to Noctua ones because I thought the default ones make a lot of noise, but for users that want to do this; don't bother, it doesn't make much difference (as opposed to the fans on a Creality Ender 3 for example).
I've also printed a filter tower where you can add more filter material (carbon filters for fish tanks for example). This does seem to filter a lot better and longer perhaps, and you can easily attach it.
Great deal!! Let us know if you need any help.
Great no nonsense video
Thanks!!
Great video my friend. I've 2 halots
Thanks!!
From what I hear these have been updated to fix issues
Thanks for the info!
The updated firmware and Halot-Box software take care of the settings so you can now set them in the print file.
Finally!! Now they need to store more than one file on the printer!
@@Monocure3DProTips lol, baby steps. Honestly don't know the size of the available storage on the machine, so couldn't say whether that would even be a possibility or not. They do have a new beta firmware release, but that is all for settings and changing them during printing.
@@Pendrayk Just updated the FW and software... yup, you now get an option on the printer to use the files settings or override them with the settings on the printer. Still stupidly slow for the plate to lower when you start the job. Seems to use the "motor speed" set in the print file rather than just go quick and slow down as it enters the vat.
@@Monocure3DProTips It is crazy slow, especially since the motor speed was 8mm/s before the first firmware update, so definitely can go faster
Good too know
just got one these buddy nice cheep affordable price 200euro cheeper than my mars pro was but yeah I just unboxed it do plan uploading a quick unboxing i never ordered resin i should of known as i didnt get any with elegoo mars pro but yeah I cannot wait to try it out am I rite in thinking it's able to print models sent by wifi that be cool if that works i gave clear resin from my mars pro which that printer gave me nothing but problems i always had a issue even on successfull prints some my detail would be missing but great video guys👍Keith
Thank you for the awesome video. I just got a Halot One as a gift. You definitely helped with setting it up. Do you have links to test prints and resins you use?
monocure3d.com.au/product/monocure-3d-calibration-matrix-2/
It has Halot One now as a profile
Pretty interesting. I got my Halot one earlier this week and the manual was basically 2 pages of information repeated in multiple languages and almost nothing about how to set it up and no brush was included.
Well, I am a resin newb so it seems to be made for me 👍
Thanks for the positive comments!!
@@Monocure3DProTips I have had great luck with it so far. Latest patches made it perfectly fine.
I've updated my Halot One's firmware and the UI has completely changed. How do I level this machine? I only see the buttons "Back to Zero" and "Levellng"?
Not sure - we haven’t updated ours yet!
Is your calibration file available for all of us or just you?
Do you have a link to the test piece you printed please? Thanks
monocure3d.com.au/product/monocure-3d-calibration-matrix-2/
What’s the difference of the plus? Just a blue and silver screen?
Not sure to be honest!
Really clean and professional looking review with on point pro level observations. Thank you guys for this effort.
I purchased Halot One and Anycubic Wash&cure Plus 3 months ago but did not have much time to use them. But so far I realized that I need mid size printer to print statues and superhero characters that I model around 25-40cm sizing.
I am down to two models Halot Sky and Mighty 4K. I need to buy one this weekend so I really appreciate your opion on that matter. Mighty 630 usd, Sky 1015 usd.
My idea was to be able to print mid size characters in multiple parts on a single print session, and if the detail level is not enough, then add Sonic Mini 8K to my arsenal to print parts of the model that needs more details like heads and hands. If my midsize printer is enough then there will be no need for Mini 8K tho.
So I am not sure if you had a chance to test/observe/work with Halot Sky but so far in reviews I've seen they mention it as the best build quality in midsize printers as well as print quality, where Mighty also on par with it with a cheaper price tag. Halot also has wifi and on device print settings comes handy if you don't want to reslice the model every time you change print settings..but If I am not wrong, in your mighty 4k review I saw you can change print settings via device screen as well without going thru reslicing the model.
Since I have experience with Halot One, I feel biased towards Sky model but There is 400 usd difference to justify if I go with Sky. So guys, I would be glad to have an objective opinion, what would you suggest? Thanks!
I haven't heard of anyone not liking the Sky. It arguably has a better UV array than the Mighty, but they both produce nice prints from what I've seen. The Sky is a workhorse that appears targeted for small-business that do 24 hour printing, so maybe overkill for personal work. Perhaps if you can you may want to wait though as better specced machines like the Anycubic Mono X 6K are beginning to be released. I would buy a Uniz Ibee if I had the choice, but they're expensive where I am.
@@benclifford8549 thanks for the reply. Where i live prices change dramatically. It got doubled in two months. So i was kinda in a hurry. I ended up getting halot sky, I thought i can keep it for mid size works for a longer period then if 6k photon comes out with a reasonable price I might switch to that then. But i feel very good with this purchase. Its really solid machine. S
Great video and I appreciated the physical specs in video form especially, but I think it's not a good idea using the firmware/software that shipped with it if there were upgrades. The Halot One is difficult to use out of the box without the updates installed (no lift up when paused printing, for instance, I think they added that a couple months ago but I haven't tested yet). I believe it was ModBot that had released two videos about the Halot One where the first impression was bad with the firmware/software back in June iirc and in December released the second with updates installed for both firmware/software, and it improved the usage greatly. I was playing around with Halot Box today and noticed it supports the print via wifi option now too. They've come a long way in a short time.
Hopefully they will sort out the firmware to be more user friendly. It seems they rushed out the printer to get it to market and the focus on dropping Chitubox for their own system was not executed well enough. Creality is a BIG company with lots of government funding, I’m sure they will sort it out with the future versions. Hopefully they have subscribed to our CZcams channel and are taking notes! Haha
@@Monocure3DProTips Just in the months since I last commented it's so much more user friendly now I can't even begin. And the software's so much better. Frankly, I understand what happened; they were probably taken by surprise with Chitubox doing what they did, and had to scramble to create their own system and I do NOT blame them. Creality even reccomends Lychee if you don't want to use Halot Box. That said, I've printed off a lot of stuff with my Halot since Feb and the biggest advantage is definitely setting the parameters on the machine rather than the slice file. Calibrate for the resin I'm using once, and let it fly.
As a side note, I actually prefer the support genertion in the latest ver of Halot Box over Chitubox, just seems to give better results.
Thanks for the update! We will try the new software and let you know.
The new firmware lets you use file parameters. I just can't get UVtools to work. It won't convert my stuff to cxdlp
We need to update this video
Latest UVTools will save to cxdlp format however it does not seem to be the newest format which has the exposure settings stored in the file. Just have to use the latest Halot Box for now.
I've had nothing but failures with mine and it's the updated version.
I have hardy anything to show for 2kg of resin, continual misprints and unprinted items.
i notice theres meant to be some kind of calibration card ? maybe thats actually what that little triangle piece of cardboard that comes with the accessories is ? *all though it does seem a little tiny to give an accurate calibration lol
Just use the vat in place when getting level. Remove the resin first. You don’t need the paper they provide.
@@Monocure3DProTips i leveled it in the vat, but i still had the protective film on the lcd screen below which i didnt want to remove before my resin arrives in the mail, will that make a difference in the leveling ? or will it be better to just do one final leveling when i remove it and do my first print
Can you avoid when it finishes printing to go all the way up, it spills resin all over the place! thanks
No, that’s part of the firmware settings. The resin should just drip back into the vat?
@@Monocure3DProTips sadly it spilled all over the place, at least it was with the cover on! first print, not even played with the config, just did a matrix and it came out great.
Send me a photo please. Support at Monocure3D dot com dot au
is this the cl-60?
Not sure
i would def update or replace this video, a lot of the info in this video is no longer correct, creality changed a few things since this video
We are working on this
@@Monocure3DProTips cool, ty for reply
@@andrewsummit8314 Just updated to the latest FW and Halot Box. You can now apply different resin profile settings during the slice and select them rather than the printer's settings when you go to print. Will try to get an update video recorded soon. Still needs an override for the homing speeds (unless I missed that setting somewhere?).
Lol I take it you didnt realise you can adjust the motor speed at first so it's not so slow doing the auto relevelling
Good review but it doesn’t do justice for a review being released a day ago
As in, this should have come out soon after the Halot One came out? We filmed it a couple of weeks ago, so apart from the unit having the original FW and not the latest, my views are still no different on it. It does nice prints but the new file format is lacking the ability to store your own exposure settings in it.
@@johngrouse5487 yep you still have to set the settings in it but the new thing is, the creality cloud app works. You can send prints off of your phone directly. But it only works for simple models. And the UI is more user friendly. U can even send prints sliced on halot box directly through wifi. It eliminates the use of usb. Check out the new firmware.
@@richieyumnam8646 Halot Box is a very dumbed down, feature lacking slicer. So even if you can send a sliced file over WiFi, nothing about the software makes me want to use it.
FYI, I just updated the FW to the very latest (2.201.20) and while the interface is an improvement (+/- buttons on the settings) and you can connect to the Creality Cloud, the fundamental issue of one set of settings to apply to all sliced files rather than use the settings in a sliced file still does not work particularly well for us. Add on top of that, those settings cannot be tweaked during a print.
Look, it's a good printer for those who don't need any bells or whistles and only use a couple of different resins. I just think Creality have taken the wrong direction with their MSLA file format.
👍🏻
Update your firmware and review the UI again
As mentioned in the video, I did update the firmware, found it brought nothing to the table and went back to the original FW. Happy to do a follow up video with the latest FW to compare?
@@johngrouse5487 yessss. Update the firmware to the latest and compare please. Will be waiting for another video 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
@@johngrouse5487 Hey, i updated the firmware and lost the parameter setting, what Firmware should i go back to and could you provide a link. Thanks
@@valravnuk6776 lost the parameter setting? Fairly sure the page with the settings are still in there, just in a different spot? Just a reminder, we are not affiliated with Creality so you should seek help directly with them. I don’t personally have any links to the old firmware. Was there nothing on their web site?
@@johngrouse5487 thanks for your reply, I did manage to find them in the end 😀
This literally doesn't help at all, been looking for settings to get the resin to stick to the build plate. I've gone to reddit and others and not a single person has been helpful all I ever get from any dam person is well just toy around with it, how about some actual knowledge from somebody and point in the right direction instead of just saying toy with it
Hi need help, pieces wont stay on plate, what parameters did you use?
Every video doing the same thing talking lol nobodies saying flat out how to set this thing up everyone a fkn scientist or expert 😂
Nice video but this definately has the feeling it's someone teaching something they have way too much experience in to people who are starting at day one. I have been looking into buying a resin printer, so i have a lot of theoretical research under my belt, but someone looking up video's on this printer won't get even half of the setup you are doing, let alone know what you are talking about when comparing and talking about slicers. People who do know that don't generally need setup guides.
Thanks for the points you have made we will keep that in mind for future videos