We worked at a fab shop. We made ends from pipe.. thick rubber.. installed a shader valve on one end. Took little time but … wow it worked good. We ran gncc in the 90s so pipes got beat. Little air … little heat … barely and hammer work
The 2020+ TPI stock ribbed pipe shape will distort if HydraForce is used to blow them out. For a ribbed pipe you’ll need to use the compressed air and heat blow out method.
I have the same pump for the hydrolastic suspension on my metro I never thought it could be used for hydro forming I've seen it done with a pressure washer im guessing the pump is more controllable and safer
Pressure washers are rated in GPM and PSI, many will flow more fluid in 1/2 sec then the entire stroke of that hand pump, but as long as appropriate safety measures are employed, have at it.
It should be noted that water compresses very little even under high pressure. As such water at 450psi is far safer than air at 80psi in this application. But if care is taken the compressed air and heat method can result in great results and previously made a video using this method: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.htmlsi=_obqMF-ZvUA0FD87
Hydrostatic pressure is much safer than compressed air to form metal. Its been an industrial process for decades to test high pressure bottles at thousands of PSI.
Noi quando ammaccavano le espansioni per sistemarle facevamo un foro al centro della ammaccatura poi con attrezzi fatti da noi , ad uncino , a gancio con la pallina all'estremità da 10 mm entravamo nel foro e scannellando tiravamo su l'ammaccatura andavamo ad imparare dal battilastra carrozziere di una volta
Heating the pipe with a torch and blowing out with compressed air is a different technique which works well, but for me is more time consuming and higher risk. But if you're suggesting heating the pipe while full of water it'll be very difficult to get the steel hot enough to soften and even if you could apply enough heat the water inside would be boiling (superheated) and be very dangerous if a bung came off, or the pipe burst. I previously made this video which shows the heat and compressed air method. czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.htmlsi=7c_hUp76DRfEDK74
@@tomcampbell6384 The pipe is full of water. You wouldn't be able to get it hot enough to soften the steel. If you want to use heat the compressed air/torch method is best...
I have a HydraForce as well and the pipes I’ve repaired don’t seem to completely return to their original shape, similar to what @akboun6708 has observed. It doesn’t form a good seal around the exhaust port and tends to leak premix while running. I thought perhaps you would use a press or something to bend the pipe to its original curvature, but you have had no such problem?
Your comment inspired me to make a video which shows how I adjust the header section of the pipe if fit in the exhaust manifold is not good. Yes, I sometimes do need to adjust the header. As mentioned in the video, if you're using a pipe guard you're much more likely to experience header bending: czcams.com/video/W9gckRFSZXY/video.html
I agree that you can achieve a more perfect blow out with compressed air and a torch. But for my use (offroad mountain riding) I usually get a new dent/s every ride and because HydraForce is quick, easy and takes that majority of the damage out, it's what I like to use most often.
I find the HydraForce method quicker and easier. It removes all dents in one go and also tends to return the overall pipe shape to original. However, to fully remove dents you do need to do some hammering as shown in the video. The advantage of using compressed air and heat is that you can achieve near perfect dent removal, although I find it quite time consuming. Without doubt the HydraForce method is a lot safer, so long as you're careful to bleed all air out of the pipe before applying pressure.
@@tonn333 imagine exploding the pipe while filled with compresed air. The hot air would expand many times the volume of the pipe. At least it would rupture your eardrums.
@@tonn333 With compressed air and heat method, the biggest danger is if a bung fails it can shoot off with a lot of force. With HydraForce, so long as you bleed out all of the air, the water compresses very little, meaning that even if a bung fails it won't act like a projectile, they'll just be a short spurt of water and it's over.
I always wondered how that was done, good simple demo, thanks
Wow. Wondered how you 2 banger boys did it. Great vid as always.
We made our own. Capped ends off full with air while little torch heat and …. POP.
We worked at a fab shop. We made ends from pipe.. thick rubber.. installed a shader valve on one end. Took little time but … wow it worked good. We ran gncc in the 90s so pipes got beat. Little air … little heat … barely and hammer work
Used this once on my Gasgas and it completely changed the pipe dimensions so re-install was a bugger.
The 2020+ TPI stock ribbed pipe shape will distort if HydraForce is used to blow them out. For a ribbed pipe you’ll need to use the compressed air and heat blow out method.
I have the same pump for the hydrolastic suspension on my metro
I never thought it could be used for hydro forming
I've seen it done with a pressure washer im guessing the pump is more controllable and safer
Pressure washers are rated in GPM and PSI, many will flow more fluid in 1/2 sec then the entire stroke of that hand pump, but as long as appropriate safety measures are employed, have at it.
Nah... I'll stick to air and torch, thanks. Would've come out perfectly....
At only 150 pounds that doesnt seem like a bad deal at all.
Another one problem is the heat they change the shape of exhaust and that makes difficult to putting back to the bike .
It only takes about 80psi and a torch...... putting 450+ into it is CRAZY. Plus you need that machine? Naw I stay with the torch.
It should be noted that water compresses very little even under high pressure. As such water at 450psi is far safer than air at 80psi in this application. But if care is taken the compressed air and heat method can result in great results and previously made a video using this method: czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.htmlsi=_obqMF-ZvUA0FD87
@@TokyoOffroad That's true, Ill concede to that. Air and heat just seems so much easier.
Hydrostatic pressure is much safer than compressed air to form metal.
Its been an industrial process for decades to test high pressure bottles at thousands of PSI.
@TokyoOffroad could you please do a long term review of the DAL SOGGIO SPHERE FORK CARTRIDGES?
Just ride.
Why not use a pressure washer provide the pressure? Like you do while hydroforming metal?
I've seen that some people use pressure washers. The advantage of using the hand pump (which has a pressure gauge) is that it's very controllable.
Noi quando ammaccavano le espansioni per sistemarle facevamo un foro al centro della ammaccatura poi con attrezzi fatti da noi , ad uncino , a gancio con la pallina all'estremità da 10 mm entravamo nel foro e scannellando tiravamo su l'ammaccatura andavamo ad imparare dal battilastra carrozziere di una volta
Soften the area with a gas torch
Heating the pipe with a torch and blowing out with compressed air is a different technique which works well, but for me is more time consuming and higher risk. But if you're suggesting heating the pipe while full of water it'll be very difficult to get the steel hot enough to soften and even if you could apply enough heat the water inside would be boiling (superheated) and be very dangerous if a bung came off, or the pipe burst. I previously made this video which shows the heat and compressed air method. czcams.com/video/U_LClTYi1gY/video.htmlsi=7c_hUp76DRfEDK74
I was just thinking that. A little heat would help.
@@tomcampbell6384 The pipe is full of water. You wouldn't be able to get it hot enough to soften the steel. If you want to use heat the compressed air/torch method is best...
I have a HydraForce as well and the pipes I’ve repaired don’t seem to completely return to their original shape, similar to what @akboun6708 has observed. It doesn’t form a good seal around the exhaust port and tends to leak premix while running. I thought perhaps you would use a press or something to bend the pipe to its original curvature, but you have had no such problem?
Your comment inspired me to make a video which shows how I adjust the header section of the pipe if fit in the exhaust manifold is not good. Yes, I sometimes do need to adjust the header. As mentioned in the video, if you're using a pipe guard you're much more likely to experience header bending: czcams.com/video/W9gckRFSZXY/video.html
@@TokyoOffroad So awesome, thank you!!
I find a pipe under air pressure and torch seems to work better than the hydra force.
I agree that you can achieve a more perfect blow out with compressed air and a torch. But for my use (offroad mountain riding) I usually get a new dent/s every ride and because HydraForce is quick, easy and takes that majority of the damage out, it's what I like to use most often.
What are the benefits and downsides compared to air and heat method?
I find the HydraForce method quicker and easier. It removes all dents in one go and also tends to return the overall pipe shape to original. However, to fully remove dents you do need to do some hammering as shown in the video. The advantage of using compressed air and heat is that you can achieve near perfect dent removal, although I find it quite time consuming. Without doubt the HydraForce method is a lot safer, so long as you're careful to bleed all air out of the pipe before applying pressure.
@@TokyoOffroad Could you please list some dangers to watch out for with each method?
@@tonn333 imagine exploding the pipe while filled with compresed air. The hot air would expand many times the volume of the pipe. At least it would rupture your eardrums.
@@tonn333 With compressed air and heat method, the biggest danger is if a bung fails it can shoot off with a lot of force. With HydraForce, so long as you bleed out all of the air, the water compresses very little, meaning that even if a bung fails it won't act like a projectile, they'll just be a short spurt of water and it's over.