I Highly recommend 6 or 8mm long staples instead of screws or nails through the long back edge of the pvc even for the trims as well it makes fitting by yourself so much easier and just a little bit of stick where needed. IF it was me doing the job myself i would have on the very first piece, if you put ceiling cornice trim up first i would have mitered that and stapled that up in place that will hold the back edge of the panels up onto the timber without £11 per tube plumbers GOLD! and then staple gun it up using a spirit level to keep boards pressed flat up against timber straps and flat for staples to go into long back lip no need for any adhesive really.
I recently used Zelletex Ceiling panels to clad my shower room ceiling and i simply glued them up , using this method would have saved you a bucket load of time. Im not sure what adhesive they supplied me but it certainly worked.
Wish I had seen this before putting Plastivan up in my bathroom (walls) I used a fine tooth saw (recommended by supplier) to cut and it was not that easy, I didn't realise a stanley knife would work so nicely. A tip if you intend to use this for bathroom walls. Works great and is easy to clean and waterproof but you do need a thin bead of silicone in the joints to keep things watertight. Also we stuck ours onto batons as the wall was in poor condition, solvent free gripfill did a great job.
I was thinking of doing a small kitchen like this, good video, I was also thinking to glue on the wood battens on the walls is that a good idea, as I have to use quite thin battening as I have to work around some cupboards and there are gaps on the edge of the cupboard sides and the wall , so am limited for space, have not seen that plumbers gold, but will check out some DIY stores
do these regularly,forget the plumbers gold and batten to hold the sheet just use "starter-trim" available from any pvc supplier.Its very quick & easy.I've always used small 1/2 inch flat head nails.
@ Brian Robb I'd use a nut or some washers then you have something solid between the cabinet and the wall, or as you have pointed out the cladding will crack when the screws are tightened. You might have to make a larger hole around the wall plug for the nut or washers to fit flush against the wall.
This is the best video i have seen on youtube,I was thinking of doing my bathroom ceiling like this in the video. THE ONLY PROBLEM IS THE CEILING IS ANGLED ON 3 SIDES OF THE ROOM. Can you bend these panels and how much can one bend.THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO....
Very helpful. I am about to do this job on fresh plaster but was planning to use a waterproof polymer instant grab adhesive. The bathroom is a ground floor extension in an old terrace and I don't know where the joists are to put battens in, plus the ceiling is already pretty low. Is the glue method alone adequate? Thank you.
Thanks very much for the reply. The bathroom had chronic condensation so a builder put some insulated plasterboard up but despite sealing it I can't get paint to adhere cos of the humidity. Could I install the cladding with adhesive but use fine panel pins in place of screws in the tongue bit? I am worried about bringing the height down any more. Thank you.
thanks for the quick reply back re led downlighters from screwfix,i noticed they are ip20 rated only,as they are going in bathroom with a shower assumed should be ip65 rated.....thanks...jon
+John lennon Sorry, the IP65 rated ones are here- www.screwfix.com/search?search=ip65+down+light#page_size=20&page_start=0 I can't find the ones that I installed, perhaps they no longer make them!
My ceiling has a slight curve going towards the window, so battons on the ceiling at that point wont work. Its quite a narrow bathroom, so could I maybe put the battons on the wall and at the point where it begins to curve forgo a batton joint there?
Thanks for a great tutorial. The shower room I am working on is poorly ventilated, there is an extractor fan but not very powerful. Walls are fully tilted. Ceiling has been done up by cowboys - painting on plasterboard directly. There are 4 downlights. Shall I plastering it then put cladding on or just put cladding on directly. If I do need to plastering it, how many coats (I never done it before, and heard is daunting). Is cladding a better solution compares to using bathroom paint to finish it off. The shower room sees high traffic - maybe 3-5 showers a day. Thanks a lot
It depends what look you want in the shower room. Cladding works well but is expensive, plastering a ceiling is difficult, then you have to wait for it to dry fully before it can be painted. You have to ensure that if you do use cladding that the downlights are not halogen lamps as the heat can damage the cladding! You would have to check with the cladding manufacturers to see if it can be screwed directly to the plasterboard ceiling, I had to batten mine out to level it etc- czcams.com/video/8kMZm1-CwW4/video.html
I didn't try a circular saw as I thought that was overkill, a hand saw worked ok but kept catching. A jigsaw on low speed with a fine metal cutting blade did a nice job of curved cuts however.
@ultimatehandyman : Nice video(s) ! I was wondering why you drill the hole for the LED rather slowly. Is it because you want to have high rotation but slowly pushing downwards because the pvc would otherwise easily tear apart/shred ? Probably same reason why you use a cutter knife and not a miter saw ? Thanks !
Ok thanks for info, very helpfull, another question when you apply the corner trims etc does that effect the expansion? or is the expansion just on the length?, as you said in the clip allow 1/2 inch for it. But when you seal them in how will the expansion work? sorry to be so dumb
Alot of these comments are from years ago but do you still need to batten the ceiling incase of mould or can they be screwed stright through the plasterboard into the joists . And flat against it
@ultimatehandyman I made that comment at the beginning fo the video and was quite surprised by the end how good it looked. Not that i'm a cladding convert :)
looks amazing, im looking for ideas to cover a terraced house spare room ceiling that has been 'fancied up' with square areas divided by flat wood borders. Its an original feature of the house but the plaster between pieces is messed up from years of different light fittings so i was going to cover the whole ceiling rather than take it down and replaster.
I've fitted this stuff and just siliconed the whole lot.....I'll try your method next time. Also, when pushing the downlight through the hole I broke the plastic lattice and had to take that strip down again.... a real pain. Second attempt I filled the lattice with silicone and let it go off before pushing the fitting through....any thoughts? Great videos for enthusiastic DIYer....keep them coming
They gave a good light to be fair, I sold this house about 8 years after making this video, and only had to replace one of them. LED's have improved a lot now, you can get some really good ones now ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, can you fix these straight onto an existing plasterboard ceiling if I locate the joists or should I use batons as you have or alternatively pull down the plasterboard ceiling first? Thanks
I Really like your tutorial...would you tell me the size, the name and the type of metal of the screw that you used to fit the plastic plate with wooden stick?...thanks for your time and consideration
I'm doing mine directly to the existing ceiling screwing through the plasterboard into the studs. My question is though, do led lights pose any heat problems at all? The reason I ask is because above my ceiling is a flat roof, so no loft space etc. Thanks.
great video as usual thanks,where did you get ceiling cladding from and led downlighters from 9watt do they come with transformer or not....thanks...jon
+John lennon I bought the cladding from Sheths bathrooms in Blackburn, but it is widely available online. The down lighters are 230v but are IP65 rated for use in bathrooms/kitchens. I bought them from ebay (I think), similar ones here- fave.co/1mGlm5j I try and avoid any lamp that uses a transformer as it is something else to go wrong and also uses slightly more electricity than a 230v version. Thanks for the comment ;-)
New subscriber. Thanks for the video. I’m gonna use this stuff in a Summer house. How much of an expansion gap such as the one you mentioned is advisable please?
@tommmmmer Just curious ... with what do you replace the cladding of cealings where you live ? Over here we have this hype that everyone wants a plaster ceiling ... I don't have an estethic preference ... It's the room that will determine what goes and what doesn't.
Do I need the batons or can I just buy the edges and hold it up with a bonding adhesive this way as the bathroom ceiling is already small and I will making the room even smaller
Those screws are a pain in the arse. Especially working above your head. Seen a tip on CZcams to hold the screws using a rare earth magnet on screwdriver bit. Made it a lot easier
Thanks, I can't remember how wide apart I spaced them, but it will probably tell you in this video- czcams.com/video/8kMZm1-CwW4/video.html Thanks for the comment
I want to cut a 200 circular diameter hole in this ceiling pvc. I have an adjustable hole cutter it says suitable for plastic. Will this work or ruin my ceiling?
I'm not sure. There is a chance that it won't work as well as it should with the cladding being in sections. I've never used an adjustable cutter, so I don't know how well they work, sorry
Yes, on the edges that were flat to the wall, I used a neat bead of silicone- czcams.com/video/6vjTxTFL-k0/video.html&t On the longer edges (where the ridges are), I used some quadrant tile trim, which was just pushed into the corner and glued using a little silicone. It looked great when finished. You can get a special trim for it, which you fit during installation, but my stockist did not have any, which is why I had to improvise later 👍
How did you seal the edges - silicone sealant or more likely some form of edge strip like a tiling edge strip? Plan do do my bathroom as the previous resident fitted wood without putting zinser on knots - looks terrible. Impossible to sand down or nitromors without a lot of hassle and mess so planning on putting up that plastic cladding - looks nice with the silver in between not seen that one before - Wickes?
+Garry Gemmell I used a tile quadrant on the long edges and silicone at the ends. You can buy a special edge for it, but this was a rush job and the edge trim was out of stock! I bought the cladding from www.shethsbathrooms.co.uk/ Originally I placed an order online and ordered the side trim, but the day before delivery they emailed me to say it was out of stock- hence me rushing out to buy some without the edging strip.
Great video. We had ours fitted by professional bathroom fitters and it looks good, however I don't know how they've done it, but on the last day they've managed to put a small crack in it (they were fitting a bath panel and a shower screen and I think they've whacked it with one of those). I was hoping I might be able to take the panel out myself and put a new one in, but judging by this video it will be a bigger job than I was hoping because all the panels leading up to it will need to come out and they're all siliconed in with the tiles right up to them. Grrr! I don't suppose you know how to repair small dings do you? 😀 I'm sure it would be useful for other people to know, as I can't be the only person that this has happened to can I?
Hi, you left a little gap for expansion at the edges right? What would you fill this with? silicone?.... I am renewing the plasterboard ceiling in my bathroom (which is under a flatroof extension) in a couple of months as I need to access the wiring for a few different things and think I may go down the cladding route instead of replacing the plasterboard.
+Josh Nielson Yes, I left a small expansion gap. I used some quadrant tile trim to cover the gap down two edges and a neat bead of silicone at the other two edges. You can buy a special trim for the edges, but they didn't have any when I bought my cladding and I had to install it immediately as it was holding other jobs up! Thanks for the comment
+Cherry Not sure about heaters, but for radiators I guess you would have to cut away some of the cladding then you can get the brackets fixed to the wall behind- this may require packing the brackets out using timber etc.
do you recommend cutting out the holes for the led downlighters first in the ceiling,then as you put up the cladding section piece where the downlighter will go then cut the hole obviously ground level how you showed video or temporary put up cladding section dril hole through cladding and artex ceiling so yiu hace a centre hole to work from...cheers
+John lennon It's probably a lot easier to drill through the cladding and ceiling at the same time as you are guaranteed to get the holes aligned ;-) Thanks for the comment
makes good sense should of guessed that!..where do you buy wago connectors from also trying to find spacer plastic shims for bathroom ceiling batons my ceiling is pissed! cheers
makes good sense should of guessed that!..where do you buy wago connectors from also trying to find spacer plastic shims for bathroom ceiling batons my ceiling is pissed! cheers
Hello handyman. Handyman, can you please let me know which tyoe of downright you have used. I've bought the same cladding as you have used in this video. Some people say do not use with plastic due to melting etc, some say they are ok. I look forward too hearing from you. Regards, Paddy from Yorkshire. P.s. excellent and informative videos, keep them coming.
Hi Paddy, I just ensured that I used LED lamps as they run cool, unlike halogen which get warm. There are some really good quality ones on the market now, such as Luceco Ftype, which are also fire rated. fave.co/2QQcj04 Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman thank you for your reply handyman. I appreciate the link you've posted, I've trawled through the net for that type of info for long enough. I'm a P&D by trade and watching your videos has given me a impetus to do my own fit diy now. Also I have rockwool in my loft, would it be advisable to get a downright hood to protect the rockwool from potential fire. Thank you once again.
If you install it in a bathroom wouldn't steam find its way behind the cladding and create a mold problem? Also downer run real hot.. can it not melt or deform the pvc?
It depends which way the joists are running, if they go the opposite way to the cladding, I guess you could use mark where all the joists are, then use longer screws to go through the plasterboard, in to the joists. You can find the joists like this- czcams.com/video/h1adPjsah5w/video.html&t
+kim berkley-monroy Probably best to remove the light fitting and put the cladding behind the fitting- ensuring that the lamp is not one that generates a lot of heat that could distort or set fire to the cladding.
What type and size screws would you use to secure these PVC panels into walls and ceiling? into wood battens ceiling and hollow plasterboard for walls please?
I just used small wood screws to fix the cladding to the battens, perhaps ½ by 8 wood screws. Not sure about the plasterboard, as you can’t get screws that hold well in plasterboard, perhaps grab adhesive would be better?
My concern is the air space between the original ceiling and above the new ceiling. Won't moisture gather there and cause some mold problems that will be unseen? Thanks.
Yeah agree but more than that, just a few centimetres cut in room space makes a difference. I would plaster the existing ceiling and lay on top of that for space, rigidity and a better finish. Love this stuff though - they use it in Japan a lot. Def gonna be getting some for my bathroom work.
Imran Behlim I found some PVC panels that look like wainscoting. Thin and flexible that snaps together (tongue and groove) and you nail it up like wood wainscoting right to the ceiling with no space. It's white and smooth and will be easy to clean. Doesn't have the decorative metal strip but I can hold where I buy it. I'd be nervous to order anything I can't check out first. Thanks.
Good video mate. I have got the same cladding in my kitchen and bathroom. The previous owner put halogens bulbs in to the spot lights. Can I just swap the bulbs to LEDs ? Cheers mate :)
Nice presentation. One question: If this is a kind of tongue & groove and you are screwing through the tongue, I'd expect the screw to interfere with the matching groove. Where am I misunderstanding?
+Colin Dempsey Thanks, the boards have a joint that is similar to tongue and grove, but not quite the same. So you can use screws or staples to fix the tongue part to the ceiling and the fixings will not interfere with the grooved part (I'm not sure what the correct name for the interlocking parts of these boards is).
+Ultimate Handyman Thanks for the quick response. I think I've just realised how it works. The secret nailing goes through the 'back half' of the asymetrical groove (not through the tongue). The back half sticks out further. so the screw holds the panel flush to the batten, and the tongue of the next panel covers the screw while entering the main part of the groove. Thanks for helping me get there :-)
Huh? Where are you from? This video is from the UK. We've never used asbestos for that purpose. Still, it's very kind of you to have considered this, I hope some of your fellow citizens appreciate it :)
Got a similar project as this on the cards how come youv not used the rebated edging strip trim for the edges to sit neatly into ? You gunna silicone it around perimeter ?? Looks good though👍
Originally I ordered the cladding online, with all the edging strips etc. But the order was cancelled by the sellers as they had run out of stock. The bathroom was only available for work at the set time, so I had to buy it from a local shop, which did not have any edging trim. I silicone the end edges, but used a piece of quadrant tile trim at the two longer edges and it looks great. Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman thanks for reply Have you got details of where you bought your cladding from mate ? Also im looking to fit some to a kitchen ceiling is it suitable for that
You are welcome I bought mine from here- www.shethsbathrooms.co.uk/ (they are based in Blackburn) I'm not sure about putting it on a kitchen ceiling, due to the heat- but some retailers seem to sell it as bathroom/kitchen cladding.
You can buy a special edging strip (the shop didn't have any when I did this job), so I used quadrant tile trim on the long edges and a neat bead of silicone on the shorter two edges. It looked really neat, when finished. Thanks for the comment 👍
We managed to get the edging strip on all four edges however we had to leave a small gap at one end and we'll silicone the gap. Thanks for your help👍👍.
Do you work around Brighton? O dont have the confidence to do this and add an extractor fan. How much would it cost you think, it's only 2 x2m maximum. I did have some mould, because there is only a vent, I am in a high rise, but is bleached and relatively clean. The cladding looks so good
Did you not use any edging trim, as it's a lot easier to fit that on 3 sides then just slot the pvc panels into place without the need for screwing battons to the wall
ryanwoodvale No, it was a rush job and the local supplier didn't have any trim. I fitted some quadrant plastic beading afterwards and it looked perfect ;-)
It was easy for me to do it this wat, if you don't use battens you will have to use much longer screws to go through the plasterboard and into the joists/studs Thanks for the comment
Nice job! Thanks for your very informative video. I will be installing a ceiling in my sunroom over an aluminum ceiling with a slight slope. What are the length's of clads? And Can you install this materail on a slope and attach directly to aluminum Ceiling? Sorry for so many questions (: Again thanks for a super video!
Excellent Video , I've just done my bathroom ceiling Thank you
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thank You for making these videos, really appreciate them.
John Morris
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
i have found your videos to be a great help ...well explained and practical..thanks very much
I Highly recommend 6 or 8mm long staples instead of screws or nails through the long back edge of the pvc even for the trims as well it makes fitting by yourself so much easier and just a little bit of stick where needed.
IF it was me doing the job myself i would have on the very first piece, if you put ceiling cornice trim up first i would have mitered that and stapled that up in place that will hold the back edge of the panels up onto the timber without £11 per tube plumbers GOLD! and then staple gun it up using a spirit level to keep boards pressed flat up against timber straps and flat for staples to go into long back lip no need for any adhesive really.
Superb instructional video guys. Absolutely knockout. That's how to do a tutorial.
I recently used Zelletex Ceiling panels to clad my shower room ceiling and i simply glued them up , using this method would have saved you a bucket load of time. Im not sure what adhesive they supplied me but it certainly worked.
I've been searching for this all day long thank u,
Thanks for the comment
Wish I had seen this before putting Plastivan up in my bathroom (walls) I used a fine tooth saw (recommended by supplier) to cut and it was not that easy, I didn't realise a stanley knife would work so nicely.
A tip if you intend to use this for bathroom walls. Works great and is easy to clean and waterproof but you do need a thin bead of silicone in the joints to keep things watertight. Also we stuck ours onto batons as the wall was in poor condition, solvent free gripfill did a great job.
I just wanted to know what ceiling cladding is and ended up watching this whole video.. Found it very interesting and learned something new! Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
thanks for the advice much appreciated...keep up excellent videos I have learnt so much.
+John lennon
You are welcome
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Nice job that pal and it's easy to maintain just a wipe with a damp cloth is there no end to your talent
Thanks for the comment
I was thinking of doing a small kitchen like this, good video, I was also thinking to glue on the wood battens on the walls is that a good idea, as I have to use quite thin battening as I have to work around some cupboards and there are gaps on the edge of the cupboard sides and the wall , so am limited for space, have not seen that plumbers gold, but will check out some DIY stores
do these regularly,forget the plumbers gold and batten to hold the sheet just use "starter-trim" available from any pvc supplier.Its very quick & easy.I've always used small 1/2 inch flat head nails.
@ Brian Robb
I'd use a nut or some washers then you have something solid between the cabinet and the wall, or as you have pointed out the cladding will crack when the screws are tightened. You might have to make a larger hole around the wall plug for the nut or washers to fit flush against the wall.
Ultimate Handyman
This is the best video i have seen on youtube,I was thinking of doing my bathroom ceiling like this in the video. THE ONLY PROBLEM IS THE CEILING IS ANGLED ON 3 SIDES OF THE ROOM. Can you bend these panels and how much can one bend.THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO....
Good job man.. Well done! I like it.
+Bilal DZ
Thanks for the comment ;-)
A very useful video thank you so much for sharing.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very helpful. I am about to do this job on fresh plaster but was planning to use a waterproof polymer instant grab adhesive. The bathroom is a ground floor extension in an old terrace and I don't know where the joists are to put battens in, plus the ceiling is already pretty low. Is the glue method alone adequate? Thank you.
what a great job you are doing showing us all these DIY stuff , Saving us a lot of money and learning new skill. Absolutely great
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
Thanks very much for the reply. The bathroom had chronic condensation so a builder put some insulated plasterboard up but despite sealing it I can't get paint to adhere cos of the humidity. Could I install the cladding with adhesive but use fine panel pins in place of screws in the tongue bit? I am worried about bringing the height down any more. Thank you.
Great job i will defo give it a go myself now thanks
Thanks for the comment
thanks for the quick reply back re led downlighters from screwfix,i noticed they are ip20 rated only,as they are going in bathroom with a shower assumed should be ip65 rated.....thanks...jon
+John lennon
Sorry, the IP65 rated ones are here- www.screwfix.com/search?search=ip65+down+light#page_size=20&page_start=0
I can't find the ones that I installed, perhaps they no longer make them!
Thanks for the video & very useful information.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
What a great video!
+EWI & Facade Products
Thanks for the comment
Hi. do u have video installing bath Cladding on wall and around the bath window? Thanks
My ceiling has a slight curve going towards the window, so battons on the ceiling at that point wont work. Its quite a narrow bathroom, so could I maybe put the battons on the wall and at the point where it begins to curve forgo a batton joint there?
Thanks for a great tutorial. The shower room I am working on is poorly ventilated, there is an extractor fan but not very powerful. Walls are fully tilted. Ceiling has been done up by cowboys - painting on plasterboard directly. There are 4 downlights. Shall I plastering it then put cladding on or just put cladding on directly. If I do need to plastering it, how many coats (I never done it before, and heard is daunting). Is cladding a better solution compares to using bathroom paint to finish it off. The shower room sees high traffic - maybe 3-5 showers a day. Thanks a lot
It depends what look you want in the shower room. Cladding works well but is expensive, plastering a ceiling is difficult, then you have to wait for it to dry fully before it can be painted. You have to ensure that if you do use cladding that the downlights are not halogen lamps as the heat can damage the cladding!
You would have to check with the cladding manufacturers to see if it can be screwed directly to the plasterboard ceiling, I had to batten mine out to level it etc- czcams.com/video/8kMZm1-CwW4/video.html
Great video, Haven't chosen downlights yet, what make led's do you recommend and max wattage?
I didn't try a circular saw as I thought that was overkill, a hand saw worked ok but kept catching. A jigsaw on low speed with a fine metal cutting blade did a nice job of curved cuts however.
@ultimatehandyman : Nice video(s) ! I was wondering why you drill the hole for the LED rather slowly. Is it because you want to have high rotation but slowly pushing downwards because the pvc would otherwise easily tear apart/shred ? Probably same reason why you use a cutter knife and not a miter saw ? Thanks !
Ok thanks for info, very helpfull, another question when you apply the corner trims etc does that effect the expansion? or is the expansion just on the length?, as you said in the clip allow 1/2 inch for it. But when you seal them in how will the expansion work? sorry to be so dumb
Great short film, will have ago myself. Bathroom needs doing thanks
Alot of these comments are from years ago but do you still need to batten the ceiling incase of mould or can they be screwed stright through the plasterboard into the joists . And flat against it
Oh okay the trim as a gap I understand now thanks for the help
@ultimatehandyman
I made that comment at the beginning fo the video and was quite surprised by the end how good it looked. Not that i'm a cladding convert :)
hi I could not find led down lighters you fitted eBay just ones with white tubes mounting any help appreciated
looks amazing, im looking for ideas to cover a terraced house spare room ceiling that has been 'fancied up' with square areas divided by flat wood borders. Its an original feature of the house but the plaster between pieces is messed up from years of different light fittings so i was going to cover the whole ceiling rather than take it down and replaster.
I've fitted this stuff and just siliconed the whole lot.....I'll try your method next time. Also, when pushing the downlight through the hole I broke the plastic lattice and had to take that strip down again.... a real pain. Second attempt I filled the lattice with silicone and let it go off before pushing the fitting through....any thoughts? Great videos for enthusiastic DIYer....keep them coming
The silicone in the gaps is probably a good idea, as the profile is very weak and the springs on the down lights can be strong.
Thanks for the comment
nice vid, some really good tips, cheers, my only concern, right or wrong is just how bright are those downlights ?
They gave a good light to be fair, I sold this house about 8 years after making this video, and only had to replace one of them. LED's have improved a lot now, you can get some really good ones now ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, can you fix these straight onto an existing plasterboard ceiling if I locate the joists or should I use batons as you have or alternatively pull down the plasterboard ceiling first? Thanks
If you locate the joists and use longer screws, I do not see why you can't fix directly to the plasterboard.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I Really like your tutorial...would you tell me the size, the name and the type of metal of the screw that you used to fit the plastic plate with wooden stick?...thanks for your time and consideration
The screws were about 3*12mm if I remember rightly.
Thanks for the comment
I'm doing mine directly to the existing ceiling screwing through the plasterboard into the studs.
My question is though, do led lights pose any heat problems at all? The reason I ask is because above my ceiling is a flat roof, so no loft space etc. Thanks.
No, LED's normally run cool but Halogen lamps are a different story- they get very hot!
Thanks mate. What type of edge trim do you use. I dont want coving type
hi I could not find the led down lighters you fitted eBay just ones with white cylinder cones tubes on any help where you got them from cheers
Great video, what size are those screws your using? And where can I get those from.
great video as usual thanks,where did you get ceiling cladding from and led downlighters from 9watt do they come with transformer or not....thanks...jon
+John lennon
I bought the cladding from Sheths bathrooms in Blackburn, but it is widely available online.
The down lighters are 230v but are IP65 rated for use in bathrooms/kitchens. I bought them from ebay (I think), similar ones here- fave.co/1mGlm5j
I try and avoid any lamp that uses a transformer as it is something else to go wrong and also uses slightly more electricity than a 230v version.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Good work nice explenition
Thanks for the comment
New subscriber. Thanks for the video. I’m gonna use this stuff in a Summer house. How much of an expansion gap such as the one you mentioned is advisable please?
5mm at all edges should be enough
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good video. My concern with plastic on ceiling in bathroom is condensation.
This was done about 7 years ago, and it still looks perfect today.
Thanks for the comment 😉
Do you no how you were on about the lights discolouring the cladding etc, are down lights ok to keep in?
Can i use either GU10 or MR16 spotlights aslong as i use low wattage LED bulbs?
Top guy great vids
which wera bit holder is that? I think the one handed screwing would be really useful
@tommmmmer Just curious ... with what do you replace the cladding of cealings where you live ? Over here we have this hype that everyone wants a plaster ceiling ... I don't have an estethic preference ... It's the room that will determine what goes and what doesn't.
Do I need the batons or can I just buy the edges and hold it up with a bonding adhesive this way as the bathroom ceiling is already small and I will making the room even smaller
Not sure, it's best to ask the people that you are buying the panels from.
Hi thinking of doing this to my bathroom, where did you get those down lights from? And how easy are they to install ?
Those screws are a pain in the arse. Especially working above your head. Seen a tip on CZcams to hold the screws using a rare earth magnet on screwdriver bit. Made it a lot easier
Great video pal. Looking to get my bathroom ceiling done. The baton you use in the video is 1inch/2inch?. How do you space them out?
Thanks, I can't remember how wide apart I spaced them, but it will probably tell you in this video- czcams.com/video/8kMZm1-CwW4/video.html
Thanks for the comment
It looks like you cladded the ceiling then tiled. Is this correct?
I want to cut a 200 circular diameter hole in this ceiling pvc. I have an adjustable hole cutter it says suitable for plastic. Will this work or ruin my ceiling?
I'm not sure.
There is a chance that it won't work as well as it should with the cladding being in sections.
I've never used an adjustable cutter, so I don't know how well they work, sorry
Thank you, great information.
Did you use anything to trim the edges of the wall for a finished look? Thinking PVC half round?
Yes, on the edges that were flat to the wall, I used a neat bead of silicone-
czcams.com/video/6vjTxTFL-k0/video.html&t
On the longer edges (where the ridges are), I used some quadrant tile trim, which was just pushed into the corner and glued using a little silicone. It looked great when finished.
You can get a special trim for it, which you fit during installation, but my stockist did not have any, which is why I had to improvise later 👍
How did you seal the edges - silicone sealant or more likely some form of edge strip like a tiling edge strip?
Plan do do my bathroom as the previous resident fitted wood without putting zinser on knots - looks terrible.
Impossible to sand down or nitromors without a lot of hassle and mess so planning on putting up that plastic cladding - looks nice with the silver in between not seen that one before - Wickes?
+Garry Gemmell
I used a tile quadrant on the long edges and silicone at the ends.
You can buy a special edge for it, but this was a rush job and the edge trim was out of stock!
I bought the cladding from www.shethsbathrooms.co.uk/
Originally I placed an order online and ordered the side trim, but the day before delivery they emailed me to say it was out of stock- hence me rushing out to buy some without the edging strip.
Great video. We had ours fitted by professional bathroom fitters and it looks good, however I don't know how they've done it, but on the last day they've managed to put a small crack in it (they were fitting a bath panel and a shower screen and I think they've whacked it with one of those). I was hoping I might be able to take the panel out myself and put a new one in, but judging by this video it will be a bigger job than I was hoping because all the panels leading up to it will need to come out and they're all siliconed in with the tiles right up to them. Grrr! I don't suppose you know how to repair small dings do you? 😀 I'm sure it would be useful for other people to know, as I can't be the only person that this has happened to can I?
The panels are really thin and would easily be damaged. I'm afraid I do not know of a way to repair damage without replacement, sorry.
Ultimate Handyman Awww. Thanks for letting me know.
very nice !
thank you brother for this formaton
Thanks for the comment
Fantastic !
+JOGO
Thanks for the comment
sorry when I said down lights I mean pendant lights, are pendant lights ok to keep in? thanks for you reply :)
So I wouldn't be able to do this with just a normal ceiling light, I'd have to get led lights?
As long as the light is not halogen it should be okay. Halogen lamps get really hot and would damage the PVC
Hi I want to clad the ceiling and walls of my ensuite. What grap adhesive would you recommend?
Everbuild stixall
good work
Jacky Wong
Thanks for the comment
What about the loft hatch?
Hi, you left a little gap for expansion at the edges right? What would you fill this with? silicone?.... I am renewing the plasterboard ceiling in my bathroom (which is under a flatroof extension) in a couple of months as I need to access the wiring for a few different things and think I may go down the cladding route instead of replacing the plasterboard.
+Josh Nielson
Yes, I left a small expansion gap. I used some quadrant tile trim to cover the gap down two edges and a neat bead of silicone at the other two edges. You can buy a special trim for the edges, but they didn't have any when I bought my cladding and I had to install it immediately as it was holding other jobs up!
Thanks for the comment
What to do about wall heaters or rads when call cladding is in place?
+Cherry
Not sure about heaters, but for radiators I guess you would have to cut away some of the cladding then you can get the brackets fixed to the wall behind- this may require packing the brackets out using timber etc.
@ultimatehandyman Ok, thanks !
By install I mean wire up to existing light. Cheers
do you recommend cutting out the holes for the led downlighters first in the ceiling,then as you put up the cladding section piece where the downlighter will go then cut the hole obviously ground level how you showed video or temporary put up cladding section dril hole through cladding and artex ceiling so yiu hace a centre hole to work from...cheers
+John lennon
It's probably a lot easier to drill through the cladding and ceiling at the same time as you are guaranteed to get the holes aligned ;-)
Thanks for the comment
makes good sense should of guessed that!..where do you buy wago connectors from also trying to find spacer plastic shims for bathroom ceiling batons my ceiling is pissed!
cheers
makes good sense should of guessed that!..where do you buy wago connectors from also trying to find spacer plastic shims for bathroom ceiling batons my ceiling is pissed!
cheers
thanks reply...where can I buy wago connectors from also the plastic packing shims you used for the batons bathroom ceiling thanks.
thanks reply...where can I buy wago connectors from also the plastic packing shims you used for the batons bathroom ceiling thanks.
Hello handyman. Handyman, can you please let me know which tyoe of downright you have used. I've bought the same cladding as you have used in this video. Some people say do not use with plastic due to melting etc, some say they are ok. I look forward too hearing from you. Regards, Paddy from Yorkshire. P.s. excellent and informative videos, keep them coming.
Hi Paddy, I just ensured that I used LED lamps as they run cool, unlike halogen which get warm.
There are some really good quality ones on the market now, such as Luceco Ftype, which are also fire rated.
fave.co/2QQcj04
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman thank you for your reply handyman. I appreciate the link you've posted, I've trawled through the net for that type of info for long enough. I'm a P&D by trade and watching your videos has given me a impetus to do my own fit diy now. Also I have rockwool in my loft, would it be advisable to get a downright hood to protect the rockwool from potential fire. Thank you once again.
If you install it in a bathroom wouldn't steam find its way behind the cladding and create a mold problem? Also downer run real hot.. can it not melt or deform the pvc?
No
Brilliant video. If the ceiling is drywall, can the cladding be screwed in, in the same way, or is there another way of doing it? Thank you mate 👍🏽
It depends which way the joists are running, if they go the opposite way to the cladding, I guess you could use mark where all the joists are, then use longer screws to go through the plasterboard, in to the joists.
You can find the joists like this- czcams.com/video/h1adPjsah5w/video.html&t
@@ultimatehandyman Can't thank you enough pal, much appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to respond 👍🏽
are you not supposed to use click in coving for the edges
You can get special trim for the edges, but this was a rush job and the shop did not have the trim ;-)
can you tell me how to fit the panels around...a light bulb. ...
+kim berkley-monroy Probably best to remove the light fitting and put the cladding behind the fitting- ensuring that the lamp is not one that generates a lot of heat that could distort or set fire to the cladding.
What type and size screws would you use to secure these PVC panels into walls and ceiling? into wood battens ceiling and hollow plasterboard for walls please?
I just used small wood screws to fix the cladding to the battens, perhaps ½ by 8 wood screws. Not sure about the plasterboard, as you can’t get screws that hold well in plasterboard, perhaps grab adhesive would be better?
My concern is the air space between the original ceiling and above the new ceiling. Won't moisture gather there and cause some mold problems that will be unseen? Thanks.
I don't think the moisture will get through the joints, I am sure they considered this when designing the panels but could be wrong!
Yeah agree but more than that, just a few centimetres cut in room space makes a difference. I would plaster the existing ceiling and lay on top of that for space, rigidity and a better finish. Love this stuff though - they use it in Japan a lot. Def gonna be getting some for my bathroom work.
Imran Behlim I found some PVC panels that look like wainscoting. Thin and flexible that snaps together (tongue and groove) and you nail it up like wood wainscoting right to the ceiling with no space. It's white and smooth and will be easy to clean. Doesn't have the decorative metal strip but I can hold where I buy it. I'd be nervous to order anything I can't check out first. Thanks.
Imran Behlim
What impact driver are you using in this video?
Good video mate. I have got the same cladding in my kitchen and bathroom. The previous owner put halogens bulbs in to the spot lights. Can I just swap the bulbs to LEDs ? Cheers mate :)
Thanks, yes you should just be able to swap the lamps over for LED versions.
Thanks for the comment
Ok thank you mate :-)
Jack Jones
You are welcome ;-)
That was going to my question whether this is ok for kitchen ceilings!
Nice presentation. One question: If this is a kind of tongue & groove and you are screwing through the tongue, I'd expect the screw to interfere with the matching groove. Where am I misunderstanding?
+Colin Dempsey
Thanks, the boards have a joint that is similar to tongue and grove, but not quite the same. So you can use screws or staples to fix the tongue part to the ceiling and the fixings will not interfere with the grooved part (I'm not sure what the correct name for the interlocking parts of these boards is).
+Ultimate Handyman Thanks for the quick response. I think I've just realised how it works. The secret nailing goes through the 'back half' of the asymetrical groove (not through the tongue). The back half sticks out further. so the screw holds the panel flush to the batten, and the tongue of the next panel covers the screw while entering the main part of the groove. Thanks for helping me get there :-)
+Colin Dempsey
That's correct, I don't think anyone could explain it any better than that ;-)
Thanks for the comments
Did you check for asbestos in ceiling before fixing wood?
Huh? Where are you from? This video is from the UK. We've never used asbestos for that purpose.
Still, it's very kind of you to have considered this, I hope some of your fellow citizens appreciate it :)
Got a similar project as this on the cards how come youv not used the rebated edging strip trim for the edges to sit neatly into ? You gunna silicone it around perimeter ?? Looks good though👍
Originally I ordered the cladding online, with all the edging strips etc. But the order was cancelled by the sellers as they had run out of stock. The bathroom was only available for work at the set time, so I had to buy it from a local shop, which did not have any edging trim. I silicone the end edges, but used a piece of quadrant tile trim at the two longer edges and it looks great.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman thanks for reply
Have you got details of where you bought your cladding from mate ? Also im looking to fit some to a kitchen ceiling is it suitable for that
You are welcome
I bought mine from here- www.shethsbathrooms.co.uk/ (they are based in Blackburn)
I'm not sure about putting it on a kitchen ceiling, due to the heat- but some retailers seem to sell it as bathroom/kitchen cladding.
with respect.. is cladding a northern thing? usually down this way we're taking cladding off not putting it on.
I'm putting this on my bathroom ceiling at the moment what do you use around the edge.
You can buy a special edging strip (the shop didn't have any when I did this job), so I used quadrant tile trim on the long edges and a neat bead of silicone on the shorter two edges. It looked really neat, when finished.
Thanks for the comment 👍
We managed to get the edging strip on all four edges however we had to leave a small gap at one end and we'll silicone the gap. Thanks for your help👍👍.
Hi, my contractor dented a few of the pannels, can they be changed?
They can be changed but not easily as the panels are interlocked
great tutorial man
Can cladding be screwed directly onto the ceiling or hard board? Thank you
I think it can. but if a ceiling is plaster, it will be difficult finding something solid to screw into.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Do you work around Brighton? O dont have the confidence to do this and add an extractor fan. How much would it cost you think, it's only 2 x2m maximum. I did have some mould, because there is only a vent, I am in a high rise, but is bleached and relatively clean. The cladding looks so good
No, sorry. I'm afraid I don't do jobs for other people (only in my own properties)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you, good video
Did you not use any edging trim, as it's a lot easier to fit that on 3 sides then just slot the pvc panels into place without the need for screwing battons to the wall
ryanwoodvale
No, it was a rush job and the local supplier didn't have any trim.
I fitted some quadrant plastic beading afterwards and it looked perfect ;-)
***** Nice piece of work you've done there. very well done, :-) Ultimate Handyman: 100/100 passed.
Pirate builders 0/100 FAILED.
Hi do you think if i can install this to a curve ceiling?
I am not sure, I guess it depends how curved it is.
The panels are quite flexible but flex them too much and the joints may appear
thankyou......
Sorry, more questions, where did you get yours from, can't see them at wickes/bq
I think I bought it from a seller on ebay- fave.co/2Dz0h5y
Do you recommend battening ceiling ? Why? Is it absolutely necessary?
It was easy for me to do it this wat, if you don't use battens you will have to use much longer screws to go through the plasterboard and into the joists/studs
Thanks for the comment
Nice job! Thanks for your very informative video. I will be installing a ceiling in my sunroom over an aluminum ceiling with a slight slope. What are the length's of clads? And Can you install this materail on a slope and attach directly to aluminum Ceiling? Sorry for so many questions (: Again thanks for a super video!
I think they came in 2.4m lengths.
You can fix them to virtually anything ;-)
Thanks for the comment