How to Smooth 3D Prints - Using Power Tools to Sand PLA!
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2020
- Welcome to Part 1 of "However many i feel like making" 3d Printing tutorials! With some confidence and a cheap power tool you can knock down and erase layer lines on PLA prints in a few minutes! Now clearly this wont work with small detailed items but for large armor prints and big pieces this can take you tons of time on post-work and help you gain a flat smooth surface without layer after layer of primer!
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#pla #smooth #3dprinting - Zábava
as as wood worker I believe that a random orbital sander will work best as it usually takes it's own flaws out while you sand also please use some kind of mask or respirator while sanding plastics metals and wood all are extremely harmful to your lungs but love the vid other wise and thanks for actually explaining things.
Yes that's what he used.
Hi @@Rynoblock, so he actually uses a orbital, not a roto orbital right? thank you!
@@matteomari2629 yah an orbital.
@@Rynoblock thank you so much! I'll start tomorrow to work on my hemlet!
@@matteomari2629 make sure to get every grit available.
"It'll take me 5-10 minutes for a helmet"
*highly skeptical until process explained*
Actually makes a lot of sense. Thank you!
Fantastic tutorial. I've watched so many today that have been hard to follow, skip steps, and don't show the pieces fully sanded. Really appreciate your detail and consideration here, this will help me so much!
It would have been cool to see the face plate with primer, half sanded, and half without, so we could see the difference. Maybe another time. Thanks for the great videos!
Ah a man of culture... power tools, I see so many people trying "hacks" because sanding big props and costumes takes too long, then I see them with this little 1x1 inch square of sand paper
Hey man. If you get sanding disks that are a couple of diameters too big for your sander you can get into those chamfered corners and reduce your hand sanding, but as you say it takes practice. Thanks for all your videos man! This is an amazing project and you are KILLING it!
You asked for ideas on filling in bad spots on prints.
I have started using a 3d pen to plastic weld/fill after I have stitched the joints together with soddering iron.
But also using the 3d pen to build up bad or missing areas with the same filament and having great success.
This might help your future builds, stops unwanted large deep areas of wood filler and colour matches your print.
And stronger than glue.
I totally dig your achievement dude
Awesome build, awesome for sharing your build.
I'm plucking up the courage to commit to building a suit, you are very inspiring.
Keep up the good work
👍👍👍
This is great to know. I have seen a lot people say how you need to sand to a 3000+ grit sand paper. I'm going to try this method next time.
i have a Dr Fate Helmet someone 3d printed for me. This was a great tutorial to help me with the sanding process. I watched a few others and they did not go over sanding as well as you did! thanks!
This is an uplifiting video! I did some orbital, mouse and hand sanding today on some of my old helmets and I was using 120 and 220 grit sandpaper. I will pick up some 80 grit discs and give them a shot as well to follow along. I had a similar base rear support surface issue as well. I tried woodfiller at first then Bondo spot putty, but looks like I got myself in a sanding nightmare by doing the latter. LOL live and learn, trial by fire
This video was extremely helpful! Thank you so much!
Best 3d printing videos out man.👍🏻
Got my Mando helmet printed and bought a new palm-sander to follow you! Thanks for the support
Bro..... that transition was......broken... in the best way. that's amazing. keep gettin' it.
Mystery solved. I did some car bodywork before, but I wasn't sure if PLA can relate. Turns out I would make lots of mistakes if I didn't watch your video. First off, sanding PLA is more like sanding bumper on car (similar grits used). Second, I had no idea that you can use wood filler! I thought it relies on wood's porosity, therefore I wouldn't consider it as a filler.
Thank you for your videos, mate. I really enjoy them and learn a lot :)
This video was absolutely invaluable, 10,000 times better with the palm sander than hand-sanding. I'm using a dremel with proper attachment for tight corners, also have sanding attachments for my power drill
Very helpful. Thank you.
Just the video I needed. Thanks man!
Vassende no problem!
Could I recommend you use an interface pad of sorts?! It goes between pad and paper! Good for curved surfaces! Saves burning through and leaving flat spots etc!
Thanks so much man!
Yeah, I definitely have to sand since I stupidly printed the front of a part face-down🤦♀️ This will probably help, thanks.
Thanks. very helpful
Thanks buddy!👍
Thanks for this video
Thank you for making a tutorial that isn’t convoluted and hard to digest, cause I just watched a video of someone using like 6 different grit sandpapers.
Hi Franlkly, thans for tips n trick, good job
Just knocked out a a Mando mask on my Neptune 3 Plus. Guess I'll be nipping down B&Q tomorrow for a sander 😁
Ah, was wondering about using mine to do this. But I settled on a Card Scraper method that does a very similar job, then you can sand to smooth out the surfaces before priming.
Damn dude. 10:30 at night and what am I doing? STILL watching your damn videos!! GREAT information man...I REALLY appreciate all of your work!! 💪😜
Getting Fit at 50 you rock man!
Great,I'm justo sanding an darth vaders helmet applying hand sanding ,I'll ser that orbital Sander ,great video thanks
Niccceee workkk!!!Just to make sure if I sand my mando helmet and bobba would it be the same process?
Hey Frank..The best thing I've learned in the first months of 3 printing is which products to use and when you apply them. This deserves it's own video. In my very limited experience, (correct me if I'm wrong) Putty Glaze seems to work best for fine print lines, and to use in tight corners where sanding is tough to get at, while straight Automotive Bondo is best for any gaps when you glue parts together, or if you damage a part by over-sanding. One caveat, use Bondo sparingly because it's much harder to sand down than putty glaze or wood filler and you will either be left with a raised surface when you prime or you'll have to sand so much that you'll burn surrounding print areas or create "valleys" just trying to knock down the Bondo. Like I said, this topic deserves it's own video, which products, when to use them and how.
Hey Frank, I'm finishing my first Mando helmet and I had a question, Is it safe to assume anything I can see through primer will show up after my paint/graphite powder? I have a fine, but noticeable raised spot at the line down the center of my helmet (top of the head). It's not Would you share how many coats of primer and how many coats of paint you typically apply?
Thanks for the tips man. Really enjoyed your build videos on the iron man suit. Lot of great info especially about the overall stats, cost, time, weight, etc. When will we see you try the suit on?
Kevin Markland hey man no problemo man! Im actually editing the next tutorial now for fusing PLA together with a soldering iron. So stay tuned haha
Also. I have
instagram.com/p/B7ThmoRDi_3/?igshid=s9ym45cp06p5
Great video, I purchased the stl files as per your recommendation on Facebook, I can’t wait to get started. I was coming on here to ask about supports but you answered it in the video.
Brett well that’s awesome! Goodluck man!
Frankly Built I just found your other video on print settings, I can’t believe it’s 1.6gb, pretty daunting the size of the project. Just ballpark how many rolls of filament did it take?
The suit? About 14
Think I'm going to go with a detail sander rather than a big palm sander but this is a great help for when I start making larger armour parts. =)
I use a palm sander all the time with 80 to 120 grit paper. To the people saying you’ll burn or melt your piece, sure, if you’re ham fisted about it. Sand for a few moments then lift for a while to let cool.
I would definitely fill it in because the one factor that is a weak spot if it gets dropped just right in that area it'll crack clean through
Do you have a video with your layer height settings? It would be good just to get a starting point.
I have used my Dremel quite a bit for tight spots.
You and Rob Pauza should do a collab
pretty damn cool suit man!
harry._s.24 thank you!
I printed my first helmet a couple weeks ago. Wish i had found your videos first before I started. I have been binging them and they are super. I see things I have done wrong and I think I know how I will fix them next time. Question for you though. I know why you have the pieces separate on this mask but for masks that will be permanently glued together would you glue/weld them together for first sanding then sand or does that really matter?
I didn’t realize how bad I needed this vid until today.
For the random orbital sander you use, which replacement disks do you buy? grit / brand?
Great video. Might want to use a respirator when sanding plastic. You don’t want that stuff in your lungs.
Just use a sanding mask
Thx for the tutorial i 3d printed like knifes but they werent smooth and im doing a darth nihilus cosplay and this will help
Very good video, direct and straight to the point. Im interested to know did you go straight to primer or use wet n dry. Ive found 5 mins with wet n dry makes all the difference but your end product looks faultless ?
Straight to primer
Hi Frank, new sub here.
About to take on a stormbreaker build using all your suggestions. But also doing some star boost prints as well here and there.
Big question, how do you do your orientation, and is it even a real concern?
A few different makers I've watched talked about layer strength with orientation being a factor.
Do you concern yourself with that?
Hey Frank. Sorry if you've covered it recently. Only started printing using the voxelab on your recommendation, getting some amazing results. Printed the mk85 and some supports happened to be in the small recesses on the side and haven't come out easily. You've mentioned you open the fine lines more. What do you use? Thanks and keep up the great content
I believe in one of his other videos he uses a line scriber to get those fine details back into the prints. I'm not entirely sure what you're asking or if you've gotten an answer since you asked a year ago, but they're like $10-$15 USD on Amazon or maybe can be found at a hobby store since they're usually used for model building I think.
do you have a video in just print it in all its colors wonder in how to measure head size have an x1c
Do i sand it ones i primed it? And after that prime it again?
Or just prep prime paint?
Very nice, did you bond these parts the way you show in one of your video? With a soldering iron?
Yep!
Hey Frank, do you ever use either a Dremel for small prints, (too small/detailed for hand-sanding) If so, would you share the dremel attachment you suggest? I also have a sanding kit for my drill for small/medium spots, I'd like to know your favorite sander for large 3D prints (palm sander etc) Thank you my friend
Hi Frank, do you also sand the inside of the helmet as well??
Love the Venetian joker mask on your wall. Did you print that by any chance? If yes do you have the STL to share?
No haha that’s a real mask from Venice lol
Quick one as I'm very new to sanding and painting, I printed the mask and jaw at 0.12mm layer height and they turned out FLAWLESS. but the dome where the supports were needs heavy attention (printed at 0.2mm). Would you suggest still sanding the mask and jaw?
Thanks,
Keit
Anyone know the name of the song he used? I know its "Dont let me go" by Sam Vank but its a different mix I cant find...
Do you wipe the sanding dust off before priming?
Would you consider a video (or simply listing here in comments) showing everything you use starting with wood filler and ending on - likely - varnish or polish? I presume you use wood filler, then filler spray, primary, etc etc. Would really help a noob like me started as I have to not only figure out the whole process and what to use on each step but also trace it down to the Portuguese (where I live) most similar product I can find,colour codes, etc etc. Thanks in advance!
I would but first. I don’t use any filler primer or wood filler. I only use small dots of wood filler to fix hole or imperfections.
Aside from that I do cover my painting methods in some other videos but I don’t paint and differently then what the can or Spraypaint tells you to do.
Last. Me giving painting tips is useless. Air temp, humidity, elevation, room temp, brand of paint, how long it’s been on the shelf, how close you spray, how well YOU sanded. All effect painting. You NEED to practice on your own. No guide out there will tell you how to paint perfectly. There are way to many variables
@@FranklyBuilt oh yeah for sure. all I was asking - and maybe it's too much to ask but hey, doesn't stop me from trying lol - was a brief description of the process I guess. I presume it would be somewhat similar to what you'd do say in a car bump or something like that. I have literally 0 experience with paint other than to grab a can and spray the heck out of it :) I figured some sort of filler and / or primer would be needed to get the surface as smooth as possible. The gold faceplate for instance, the noob in my would just grab a shiny gold spray paint and get it done but for what I could gather there's all sorts of steps one can / should take to get a proper finish. Some suggest a black primer, then metal silver, then brush (to make it look like scratched metal) then metalic gold...ooof sounds like I need a lot more than "just a few cans of spray paint"
May I ask why you prefer wood filler as opposed to something like painter's caulking?
It’s cheap. Honestly there’s tons of options and no one is perfect or right. This stuff is just dirt cheap and dries in minutes
What about wet sanding? Just to reduce overheating.
ever consider using jewelers tools like a flexible shaft? it has a foot pedal and lots of control as well as a polishing setup it is stationary so it can be very effective of course its not as cost effective as the way your doing it but much easier and can do way finer work.
I use like an electric iron shaped sander that doesn't rotate, do you think it is enough?
I know this video was over a year ago, do you prefer sanding over coating your prints in something like resin or clear spray polyurethane?
Still prefer sanding
This is great! but how did you manage to get rid of spray paint in the helmet? Thanks.
To Mond spray paint in the helmet? What do you mean?
@@FranklyBuilt i mean when you paint it, did you put anything to get rid of paint smell? Thanks
Nah it’ll fade after a few days
What’s the best way to get into those very small crevices or do those not matter that much?
Honestly never seemed to matter to much
Wait. Any reason why you place your print like that vs having supports on the inside?
Yes. Big reasons. Smoother prints and better surface finish. Also it eliminates the huge crop circles that are left on the front of the faceplate from the top layers. And it’s used face less material. And prints quicker.
This is an old thread, but if you get a chance to respond, I'm printing a Mando helmet in 8 pieces and the first piece took 9 hours but I printed it with layer height set to 0.3 and the lines are reaaaally obvious. Wondering what my options are - is palm sanding going to work to level things out or are the lines too deep? Could I run it over with some filler primer? This is my first large-scale print and I'm trying to figure out whether this piece can be rescued or am I just going to have to junk it and reprint with 0.2/0.16 layer height and deal with the 12 hour print time?
interested in getting a 3d printer, how long did the whole helmet take to print and how many kilos of pla did it take?
20-30 hours and half a roll. Check my other videos to learn how to start and what not!
Do you have a link for your palm sander? Also, I see people use bondo and then sand. From your video, does this mean you can just sand the plastic itself?
Infernoboy sorry I don’t. It’s just a cheap black and decker. And that’s exactly what this means. I don’t use Bondo
At what speed do you run the eccentric grinder ?
Wow! 80 grit! i was advised 800 grit up to 1500 grit, im like 3 hours in and cant see any difference..80 grit is very coarse but your using it so i guess it works!!
It’s a trade off. The 80 Gritt rips faster. As long as you smooth it with like 200-400 after and prime it; it’s perfect
I know it’s not shown in the video, but do you sand and paint the inside of your helmets? If so, how would you recommend sanding the inner concave parts of the helmet?
Nah I don’t. No one sees it haha
👍
I am doing this exact thing with a hyper tough sander and 80 grit paper, but it is taking FOREVER to take those layer lines out. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Should I go down to 60 grit?
MusicMan9018 is the hyper touch sander dial action? Meaning it oscillates and spins?
@@FranklyBuilt hmmm. No, it just oscillates. I guess that might be my issue
Can I use 0.2 mm height and sand it
Do you use tree supports in Ultimaker Cura?
Mostly yeah
nice i gotta try it :D at what layer height are you printing?
DeJotA Craft this was printed at a .3 mm height. I do .4 now for speed using a .6mm nozzle
@@FranklyBuilt damn 0.3 and smoothes so quick, nice :D I have some old 0.2 prints laying around, will try this tomorrow
DeJotA Craft yep! Just go slow and practice
What if your already printing it in the color you want it? I'm printing some blasters in black, but get the grey sanded area. Is there anyway to get it back to look like it never was sanded?
Lots and lots and lots of wet sanding. I would just paint it
BTW the lower the sandpaper grit, the less heat it produces, so your 80 is about perfect for not producing too much heat and not taking off too much plastic and burning through your walls.
But yeah, you should be wearing a respirator when sanding anything with a power sander. Fine particulates of ANY kind will irritate the lungs.
MrTegidTathal I’m beyond saving at this point lol 😂 if plastic particles and dust get me? I’ve won lol
But yeah the 40 I used was great for knocking down BIG issues but 80 seems to be the perfect sweet spot for PLA
@@FranklyBuilt I used to do all my woodworking without a respirator but I noticed I had a bunch of black boogers and congestion afterwards so I started wearing the respirator and I don't have to blow my nose for two days after I am in my shop. I don't specifically care about my lungs, mostly about how I feel afterwards :)
MrTegidTathal that’s very true lol I work around lots of toxic jet fuel and other chemicals. Already taken baths in the suit haha used to work with Rhino Lining bed liners. THAT shit is unbelievably toxic lol
7th Jan, 2 months later the world change.... Love the videos
Which paper grade are you using for sanding?
80 on the palm sander then a quick rub with 200
It would obviously take A LOT longer but would it also work if I just sanded an entire print with just sandpaper?
Yep it would work fine
@@FranklyBuilt Ok, thank you!
Can you use plastic dip as a primer? Or you wouldn't be able to sand it down if need to?
You could if you want it to look not so great and potentially peel off. I see people use it on foam tho for flexibility
What about bondo over then sand?
wheres the file from please do you have a link for it?
Could you go over something like this with a heat gun afterwards to get back the original pla colors rather than paint it?
Probably not no. You’d have to spend a lot of time wetsanding an polishing. Better and easier to just paint it
Do you still use the methods in this video or has it changed?
yo frank, it's me @chick_adee_123 from intstagram! this is a great video!
How long did it take you to sand the whole
2 days
Would a mouse/palm sander have the same result?
Similar but not as fast
can i just use the 200 sand paper instead of using the power tool one???
Yeah but you’ll be sitting there much much longer
Couldn't you use a dremel for the fine areas?
Yep!
Could you sand the inside of the helmet as well? If your face is gonna be in there, I would think you would want it smooth
Nah it doesn’t touch my fave
@@FranklyBuilt oh yeah. The padding in there would prevent that. Forgot about that lol.
Do you have one of these for petg?
No I don’t really use petg
When you say file are you talking about a nail file? 4:09
Wet sanding plastic is the only way. I’m an automotive painter and anything plastic needs wet sanded so you don’t get fuzzies. Makes life so much easier lol
I oddly have to disagree with that my man. I never wetsand any of my printed before primer and it’s been fine this entire time.
@@FranklyBuilt You'll use far less primer. I'm sure it looks fine but covering a plastic part in two coats instead of having to bury sand scratch and fuzzies makes wet sanding worth it lol.
I think the electric sander that has a triangular shape would be best to also get all the tight spots.
Yes I agree, it's called THE MOUSE
👍👍👍
I already have a B&D mouse sander, would that work just as well or not since it isn't a rotational sander, it just vibrates side-to-side quickly?
It works just not as well yeah
What if you don’t have a scrap piece of PLA to practice on?
Print one lol
@@FranklyBuilt I don’t have my own printer😂😂😂Dat shiz expensive lol, I’m buying raw 3D armor prints from etsy