How to Fix ANY Whirlpool Dryer that Won't Start | EASY FIX (2024)
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2021
- In this video, we show you How to Fix ANY Whirlpool Dryer that Won't Start and why it's an EASY FIX. We will cover the ONLY 7 things that cause a Whirlpool dryer not to start.
📃 SHOW NOTES 📃
TOOLS AND RESOURCES MENTIONED IN THIS VIDEO
✅The #1 Multimeter - amzn.to/3q6NWiR
✅Cheaper Multimeter Alternative - amzn.to/3q7E3le
✅1/4 Inch Screwdriver - amzn.to/3cF4QSC
✅The BEST Drill for the Job - amzn.to/3KI1b2X
✅Good Quality Putty Knife - amzn.to/3RuL1MO
APPLIANCE PARTS YOU MAY NEED TO PURCHASE
Type in your dryers model number after you click any of the links below!
✅BUY YOUR THERMAL FUSE - amzn.to/3CMUXgu
✅BUY YOUR DRYER BELT HERE - amzn.to/3cEx7Zy
✅BUY YOUR DRYER DOOR SWITCH - amzn.to/3ADtLhs
CAMERA EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
✅Canon M50 with Kit Lens - amzn.to/3cHAJKo
✅Rode Wireless GO Microphone - amzn.to/3Qbg8vI
AG APPLIANCE ON SOCIAL MEDIA
✅ / theappliancedudes
✅ / theappliancedudes
I ran through the diagnostic checks you showed and found an issue with the thermal fuse. Now my wife thinks I am handy - thanks to your awesome video!😊
aha, this might be the best comment yet, brother. I’m happy I could help!
I don't have a voltmeter to check anything... I just ordered the fuse.. My wife is gonna think I'm an awesome handyman or a jackass if it's not the fuse lol
A happy wife is a happy life!
Excellent video, way better than others I watched, thank you! I really hope you continue to make repair videos, the way you explain is easier to follow and far better than other vids I've seen. Other vids only mentioned 3-4 things, you mention much more, which is more helpful.
Thank you so much for the comment! We hope this video could help you, and comments like this encourage us to continue putting out great content. Happy New Year!
My dryer stopped working this week and is almost the exact same model as in this video. I followed your directions, tested the fuse, sure enough that was the problem. Bought a new one at a local supplier for $17, replaced it and now the dryer is running like a champ. Big money saver. Thanks for the video!
So happy to hear that my friend! Glad we could help!
Extremely helpful info! I ordered up some thermal fuses today since 3 of the hardware stores I stopped by don't carry them. Thank you for the great video!
It’s because the dam thing is such a common repair, man! Did you confirm it was the thermal fuse?
I appreciate you showing us around the machine first and your clear instructions. Thank you
Hey Rhea! Thanks for reaching out. I hope the video helped you.
Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519 did the trick. My local Whirlpool dealer had it in stock. The bag was marked $19.95, but they charged me $5 cash . It took more time to clean out the dryer vent pipe than change the fuse. A $5 item fixed everything. I took my ohm meter to the store & made sure there was a difference between my old fuse & the new one. I left the store confident that I had the right part. Videos like these are awesome! Thank you!!!!!
Can’t tell you how much I love reading this stuff my friend 🙏 so happy the video could help you. Happy New year!
@@theappliancedudes Thank you & Happy New Year to you, too!
Thank you for the advice. Excellent and clear detail on how to proceed to the checkpoints. I was able to find the problem and it thermal fuse. I ordered the part @ Amazon and it is working great! Thanks again
Thanks so much! You’re vídeo was a huge help in getting my dryer up and running again.
We’re so happy to hear this! Thank you for subscribing 🙌
Thank you for explaining everything you are doing. I have no man to teach me these things, and you explain it great for me to learn. Im forever thankful.
Hey Veronica! Thanks for reaching out. So happy the video helped you out.
Thanks for the very helpful video. You helped me find the problem with mine. Wish you the best. We need more of you around!
Just wanted to thank you for your video. I was able to fix my dryer and save myself money from buying a new one. Very good information, content was great! Thanks alot and much success to you !
Great video! Helped me to fixed my whirlpool dryer. I was ready to buy a new one and I run into your video. Thermal fuse was the problem. I bought a $6 multimeter to test at harbor freight. Found no conductivity through the fuse. I ordered a kit( fuse and thermostat, 4 pieces came.)for $11 dollars from Amazon. I only replace the thermal fuse. Problem fixed. I checked the switch first which was good. I could hear power sounds in the panel but it wouldn't start. Sure enough the thermal fuse. Thank you again! You explained just perfectly to save me some 💰!
Happy to hear the video helped you out Obed! Make sure you clean the lint inside the dryer to avoid the thermal fuse from tripping again!
Excellent, very informative video! Thanks, youre doing us DIY'ers s great service with content like this!!
Thanks for taken the time bro.. I went right to the button on the door, and that’s what it was. Thanks again.
Enjoyed your video...very well explained. My dryer still won't start after checking EVERYTHING. The only anomaly in the testing is that the push to start switch has the expected CONTINUITY both when normally open and pushed. However, with the dryer plugged in and the selector switched to any drying cycle, there is no voltage drop across the R1 / R2 start relay connectors - either when the start button is normally open, as well as when pushed and held in. Individually, BOTH pins show 120 VAC relative to ground with the start button in the normally open position which seems very odd. Any thoughts on if this relay is bad even though it's passing the continuity test?
Very helpful , never thought about all of these steps and actually helped me fix this !
Glad you enjoyed it my friend!
Thanks so much…. I just Learned a lot with your video my dryer stops working I following your directions, I just pay for the part 7dls and is working right now thx thx thx
So glad we could help! Thank you for subscribing
Was able to diagnose mine as the thermal fuse. Kudos for having the link to them.
Just replaced the thermal fuse on my Dryer and it’s working again. Thanks 👍🏾
No problem! Glad the video could help
We have a Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II. Purchased it back in 2006 and it just died. Followed this video and determined that the Thermal Fuse lacked continuity. Didn't want to wait 4-5 days for an $8 2-pack to ship from Amazon, so I was able to locate an Appliance Parts store locally and picked up a replacement for $18.99. The price is just for one, but I figured they'd have to charge more since it's housed in a traditional brick-and-morter store. And you know, support local:) We also have no use for the extra one, and we really didn't want to wait 4 days to learn whether or not there were other issues needing addressed as well.
Either way, we are grateful to you for saving us from having to spend $500+ on a new dryer, because that's the path we were about to head down. So I wanted to make sure we at least thumbed up, subscribed and left you a comment!:)
Hey Bull!
Really appreciate this comment. I’m so happy our video could help, and more importantly, I’m happy you didn’t end up having to buy a new machine!
Thanks So much! Subscribed. It was temp sensor the very first thing you mentioned.
Happy the video could help🙏
Found my problem to be the door switch, I’m glad that I checked it 1st. Wow what a video. Thank you sir.
Thanks appliance dudes for helping me diagnose and repair my whirlpool dryer.respect dudes
saved me hundreds !! any one reading this -very simple just follow the steps .I bought a multimeter at lowes for 40$ and three of the fuses for 5$ -fixed
So ghost the video helped 🙌
I was about to jump to the switch because it felt dead. I used your trouble shooting tree and it was the thermal fuse. Meter showed open, jumped it to verify and got the parts ordered in about fifteen minutes. Thanks!!!
Thanks for making this video. Pretty sure my repair is going to be a thermal fuse. Everything is clicking like it has power but the motor doesn't engage at all. This video is also good for understanding basic cleaning maintenance, componet access and safety. Well done sir! If I get it working, I will come back and comment. Whirlpool, same exact set up, BTW.
Yep, it was the thermal fuse. Worked like a charm! Thanks again! Saved me like $500-ish
Just reading this now, but not a problem my friend! So happy I could help!
You helped me fix it !!!!! Thank you so much !!!!
Thanks for the assistance, it was the temp sensor 👊🍻
This video was very helpful, thanks!
Thanks Selena!
Thanks!! Best explanation yet!
Glad we could help you!
Let us know if you have any other questions. Always here to help!
Great video! I could hear the motor running but the drum wasn't turning.
Sure enough, the belt had snapped after 18 long years. $14 later and I'm back in business.
Thanks.
These are the stories I love to hear! So happy the video could help you, and keep us in mind for the future! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you very much! I followed your instructions step by step getting the tools in the links you provided too and my whirlpool dryer is now working perfectly. You saved me hundreds of dollars doing it myself and I’m really appreciative. Thanks again.
Charles, we love comments like this my friend! Thank you so much for watching the video, and supporting our channel through our affiliate links my friend. Much love 🙌
Great training, good job emphasizing the unplug safety…prob my fuse, start button or door switch. I’ll know in a few 🎉
Let me know!
Looks like the door switch no click and broke loose, which has been bad (opens and keeps running). With the 3 wired clip I’m guessing some safety rated for redundant magic here so maybe had a partial failure then stopped now. If so how about that safety rated switch 😳….wife went to lowes TBD!
@@mr.gladiator3544 I hear ya! I’d just replace the door switch tbh
Not stock at lowes, $8 on Amazon since! the door hasn’t stopped the dryer for years and no small kids we took the risk and jumped it out till it arrives. Clean have towels Again…..hahaha!
Went through and checked everything you mentioned, twice. Everything checks out ok. I’m seeing on a few Google searches that there is also a belt switch somewhere by or on the motor itself? How would one test a belt switch? Thanks-Drew
Hey drew,
You would effectively test the belt switch by verifying whether or not the belt was in place. If the belt is tight (like shown in the video) the belt switch is good
Thank you for an informative and well done video.
thank you. thought so, since voltage passes thru it..
Great video, thank you for posting.
You are very good instructor thank you for sharing your knowledge . Big Gunns USMC Retired
Love this my man!
Thank you for your video. I have a stackable dryer Whirlpool Duet Dryer that makes a load "buzzing" sound and does not turn. It lights up all the indicators on the board. Does that sound like it could be one of the problems you mentioned?
Hey Cat!
Any time a dryer has power but isn’t starting, there is usually something going on in the motor circuit. It could absolutely be one of things we talked about!
What is the model number of your dryer? This is usually found on the inside of your machine!
You good Sir, are a legend!! Thank you!!
Very very helpfull, blessings from Guatemala, take care
Love hearing where our viewers are from! So happy the video could help Carlos.
This is an excellent video....thanks
Outstanding video!
Great instruction. Thank you!
so mine looks similar to this, only three buttons/dials/switches. i can spin the drum by hand, and the dryer will fire up. many types of motors use start capacitors, but i only see a handful of wires heading into a harness which appears to be on the motor. i can haul it outside for a better look and flip it over etc. do these motors typically not use an external starter cap? or is there one on there, just right bolted onto the motor or motor mount assembly?
Great Video!
Thanks!
Very helpful and clear. Thank you. We need more instructional youtube channels like this instead of influencers.
Fuse! Thanks so much!
Do motor’s all use start winding’s or are some using capacitor to start?
Very nice video ,thanks!!
Thank you!
You the bomb!! GOD bless you!
Not a problem my friend!
Awesome video.. what does it mean if the multimeter does nothing during these tests? No beep, nothing at all. No number
I would assume this would me you have a defective multimeter
How can i find directions on cleaning out a G.E. dryer which is part of a apt size stackable. Im a 69 yr old widow. Im fairly handy with fixing and repairing. Never done a washer/ Dryer tho. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
finally the right video!
Hey Jay,
Happy the video could help, brothert!
Small dad flex to your big dad flex. THANK YOU for the great video and the explanation. $5 thermal fuse.
The biggest challenge was finding the RIGHT video.
I love this, aha. I’m glad I could help brother. Hopefully you got her up and running again.
@@theappliancedudes Yes sir. So far so good. If it fails again, I may reach out for some guidance. It's not lint, I keep that very clean and check regularly. I'm guessing it either went bad over time, it was a very large load of towels, or maybe some lint came loose and clogged it down the line. Not sure. Thank you again for the great video.
Make sure you don’t have a grounded heater! If the dryer gets hot too the touch or the laundry room gets overly warm, these are signs that your heater is grounded! This is a very common cause of a tripped thermal fuse.
@@theappliancedudes How do I check for this?
@@dmaisuria your dryer (even when off) will feel hot inside. Like the heater is on
I have a issue of my picture was lost, so how go about making sure what wire goes were like the wire coming from the the 4 connection thermal fuse on the blower side the wire to the heating element side where do it connect?
hi my whirlpool heavy duty dryer moter spins a little bit then stops but makes a humming noise...could it be the capacitor perhaps
You’ll be your main winding in the motor….. is the dryer controlled by a timer?
Thanks for the video. Looks like I need to source a thermal fuse.
Hopefully you got the repair all figured out!
@@theappliancedudes sure did. Thanks again
@@popo_53 Not a problem! Thanks for checking out the channel!
Thank you for the info.
Thank you very much. In my case it was the door switch.
So happy the video could help!
thanks! & dollar door switch beats a new 500 plus dollar dryer!
Yessir it does!
Hello,great video, question same dryer,had one heater failed/shorted ,sparks ! anyhow new heater new thermals,checked timer,has continuity when on positions,I think motor shorted,I'm going to live test and manual trip thermal on motor see what happens, any thoughts?
Hey! If the issue you’re having is the heater circuit, you want to double check EVERYTHING in the heater circuit even if it’s all new components.
The biggest culprit is usually the thermal fuse (two blue wires going to it)
When you press the push to start button (with the door closed) do you hear the motor humming?
Let me know. Also, what is the model number of the dryer?
Also, highly advise you not to jump anything around the motor. The motor is a large load and should you accidentally jump over the motor then you’ll REALLY have sparks
Ok found problem,wire harness to door switch was pinched by someone prior to me being there, intermittent open.thanks for response,great show
@@jhenry7406 glad you got it figured out!!
thank you huge help
I have a 1996 Kenmore 90' series dryer that won't stay running unless I keep the start button depressed. I have changed out the start switch and the start switch relay - no change. The dryer also does not heat and the fuses check out fine. The door switch is good. The element is good. Voltage to the dryer checks out for 240. The idler pulley switch is good. This problem came on all at once, after a normal working cycle where the dryer was on a high heat cotton cycle, and has remained inoperative with the condition mentioned. 11-2-2022
Hey Gary,
This is an interesting issue - do you have the model number for the dryer?
I was trained that "OL" meant "Open Line" not "Overload"
It all depends on how people were trained. More or less the same thing right?!
I think it means both. I'm a power lineman. I have a Fluke Multimeter. When I'm testing load on a transformer, if the amperage is over 400 Amps, it says "OL" on the screen (it's rated for 400 A only). But when I'm testing continuity, it means open line.
Overload means too much power to load. Open line means no electricity going thru. Not the same.
@@eddiejohnston1853 and yhe winner is Eddie Johnson!!
It means Open Loop bro
Want to get into flipping washers and dryers have fun fixing them been doing it a lot but don't know how to flip them on Facebook marketplace any tips
Nick! so strange that you just commented about this. We have a video on this coming out next week. We will also be releasing a FREE in-depth webinar on how to build a highly profitable business doing this. Let me know if you have any questions. As for a quick tip, stick with standard electric dryers (both front and top loaders) and stick to top load direct drive washing machines.
Stay away from flipping front load washers as their support systems tend to break down over time and cause headaches. Also, much more expensive to repair.
Subscribe to the channel to see the content coming out about flipping appliances. We will be putting out a lot of DETAILED videos on this in the next few weeks. You can also check out the CZcams channel "Washer Dryer Money" for now. Hope this helps, man
Thank you
Not a problem! Thanks for watching the video!
what about a kenmore with lint trap inside the main door? i cannot remove the panel in the front or in the back.
Is it a front load dryer?
Thank you for your help m, however, upon opening my dryer I now do not see the similar component that I purchase(thermal fuse) to replace on my dryer, where else should I Chacha?
Is it a similar model to this? Can you email me a photo of it to contact@aimlogistics.ca
Thank you SO MUCH FOR TRYING TO HELP!! I just emailed the (4) photos of the Whirlpool Dryer.
@@indyjordan743 I messaged you via email!
I have a whirlpool duet dryer, I have power all the way up to the dryer. The breaker is good, the cord is good and I’m getting the right readings on the power coming into the dryer. I am getting nothing from the dryer itself. No light in the drum when door is open or no lights on anywhere. Any suggestions???
How have you verified you actually have power inside the dryer? What test did you do?
Thank you)))))
No problem - so happy the video could help!
Thanks!
Just fixed my dryer. Thermal fuse. $7.50. I’m not a wealthy man so this meant a lot. Bonus…wifey thinks I’m amazing!! Thank you for taking the time to make this! I owe you one.
lmao I love this comment my man 🙌 I’m glad the video could help and I’m glad the wife is happy again 💪
I really do appreciate you bro!! You laugh… but happy wife happy life. And I’m happy!! Thx bother.
How about the switch on the motor that is triggered by the tensioner in the event the belt breaks? It shuts off the motor
When the belt breaks it releases the switch. Can you review that and how to test it?
Hey Ted,
Some dryers don’t actually have a belt switch! This is why some people complain about their motor running but the drum not actually spinning.
On models that do have a belt switch, it is usually in series with the motor. I will be making a video on this shortly
FYI - To be accurate, when testing a component, you need to isolate that component by removing at least one of the wires so you are only checking THAT component otherwise you could possibly be getting a false reading due to other items being in parallel .
The "horse shoe" is called "OHMS" ( the Greek infinity sign ) which is the unit of measurement for resistance just like volts and amps are units of measurement.
And like you mentioned, always have the machine unplugged when testing.
Good video ! Thank you for making it !
You’re 100% right. I’ll make sure to mention this in my next video
Everything is testing fine. Error code on the dryer says moisture sensor is malfunctioning but it seems fine too
Do you have the link for push start button being faulty?
It’s briefly talked about in this video. You can use your multimeter and check for continuity. What makes you think the push to start is bad?
Pete
What is the little black box next to timer with blue wires running to it
I’d have to see the model - but it is most likely a buzzer for when the cycle is done
I have a Roper dryer (model RGD4440VQ1) that stopped working. I've checked everything listed in this video and it all works. Power is being sent to the motor but nothing is happening. Should I replace the motor?
I replaced the motor and it still won't start.
Do you hear a hum going to the motor? When you press start do you hear anything at all?
Hi . I have a 15-year-old or more Whirlpool dryer. It's only stopped working I didn't even know it was broken until I tried to put a load in. What I noticed is the dryer door 'tab' coming from the top is as loose as a key on a keyring. There's absolutely no resistance and no noise. Am I on the right path to think that I need to replace that?
I have a Whirlpool Cabrio dryer model no. WED7800XW0 it will power on but will not start on any setting. It says "Sensing" on the screen when I push start. In diagnostic mode it gave an error code of "F31" but I don't have the tech sheet to see what that means. Any suggestions?
Hey! Thanks for reaching out! Am F31 error code usually means the dryer is missing voltage. When it comes to dryers, they require 240VAC to run. You have two separate lines connected to 1 outlet. Each line Carrie’s 120VAC for a total of 240VAC.
Chances are the line that is missing is the voltage line that powers the motor. Both lines need to be present for the heater to work. A heater always requires 240VAC
@@theappliancedudesI had to replace the thermal fuse & it's running now but what would cause thermal fuse to go bad? I always empty lint filter & checked the vent hose was clear. Why would it just all of the sudden start having that problem? It worked fine until a few days ago. I know the cord was installed correctly because my friend did that & he's an electrician. I will have him check the 240 outlet & the plug wires. Thanks for the video & response! *SUBSCRIBED*
@@tatchik77 yes, thermal fuse is the most common part that needs to be replaced when dealing with dryers x
As mentioned in this video, these thermal fuses are temperature sensitive fuses. This means the only thing that really causes them to trip is when they reach their maximum temperature. The most common reason they trip is when lint builds up in the dryer.
Make sure you clean your lint trap after every use. Make sure the ventilation is clear of any excess lint.
It’s worth mentioning that other things can cause a dryer to heat up such as a broken thermostat that doesn’t cycle the heater on and off and therefor the heater always stays on which will eventually trip the fuse. These causes aren’t as common. Start with the lint in the dryer!
wishi had seen this video a few months ago before I replaced a miriad of parts and it still didnt work. lol book marking for my umpteenth go at it. This dryer has been a headache. The circuit board has a faulty design as one of the traces is not robust enough to handle its own current and will shred itself apart. Fixed that by re routing the traces with thick solid copper wires, insulating them and testing and went ahead and beefed up all the traces associated with that network of components. Bingo, back up and running. Then the belt went. Fixed that. Then I found out the idler pulley's steel core ring split into two rings and likely caused the belt issue because it wasn't rolling smoothly, so I ordered one which came with the drum rollers as well.
Curiously, the one I ordered supposedly for this dryer (cabrio)was actually not as "universal" as they claimed for whirlpool and was a bit larger. But I didn't realize how little space between the wheel and drum (as in virtually none) and the wheel was rolling ON the drum. I imagine this created drag so when my dryer stopped working and the belt was still intact, albeit a bit of rubber shavings inside that clued me into the pulley issue, I figured I blew a fuse so I replaced the thermal fuse. Nothing.
When that didn't work I replaced the belt switch. Nothing. I heard the start button might be the problem but when I click start, it makes an initial click that I always associated with starting up, it engages the countdown on the digital display and still does nothing. So I begrudgingly replaced the motor because at this point, in for a penny, in for a pound. Got one for 40 bucks, tested its continuity, all good. I should also note that I had cleaned out the vent when I had it apart to replace the belt the first time and I upgraded the vent hose at the time as well as put in an actual vent outside because it was previously next to the washer but I installed a washtub sink years ago and the dryer got bumped to a new place. But the boys actually did that and just stuck the hose in one of the floor vents in the garage. Nice, right?
I didn't know taking that damn fan blower off would be impossible without breaking it. After wrestling it for an hour here and there, getting aggro, drilling a couple tiny holes to try to get some liquid wrench on the shaft. then turning my husband loose on it as well unsuccessfully, I took a hammer to it, so I also replaced that too (and gladly!) and still NOTHING. I also bypassed the door switch by closing the circuit for testing reasons and that was also not the culprit. Same thing happens when I push the start button. All of these incidences happened a few weeks or months apart with the last year and a half. Except this last dryer won't start thing. I swear if it's the start button switch, I am going to be one angry chick. I suppose it is possible being that the switch has more than one function looking at all the wires connected to it... ooooo I'm gonna be so mad. LOL If it's not that, a faulty NEW part is the only other possibility unless its a recently faulty board component. In which case, doublely pissed off. Enraged. LOL
If I missed anything, Please tell me. I am at my wits end with it and my clothes always have like reside or lint on them when I hang dry that you don't see till they dry and I KNOW tumbling would take care of. I particularly like not being bald, but this is about to have me pulling my hair out with everything else that seems to be needing maintenance. My car just getting totaled by a dipdhidiot doing 60+ in a 25 and haven't had time to go buy one, the sink having a leak in the food truck I run and can never seem to get to because there aren't enough hours in the day (or patience in this person!) Hubs likes that I like to do this stuff because he doesn't (and things get more broken when he gets bent) and I don't like cooking so it all worked out but the frustration of not fixing it vs. the satisfaction that comes with making broken shit work again is making me crazy.
Question!!
The start switch is not pressed, the multimeter reads 03. When pressed, it reads 01 and 00. Does that mean the switch is dead?
So you mentioned the close sensor. Have a video on that?
Hey Gerardo,
What closed sensor are you referring to? I’m
Trying to recall when I spoke about a sensor in the video.
whereabouts in ON do you work out of? have a dryer issue, wonder if you have a business fixing appl. thanks
We’re near Toronto!
@theappliancedudes my dryer broke down, 2nd time. Not sure if it's worth repairing it..power comes on, just does not start.i am in mississauga..how much would it cost me for you to check/repair?
I have a dryer that clicks when you post the start button but will not start? Any thoughts??
Hey Joseph! Thanks for reaching out, man. If it's a dryer like the one you see in this video then it could be anything I mentioned in this video. The most common repair(s) for a dryer that does not start is by far the thermal fuse or the belt (both mentioned in this video)
If you have a front load dryer, the clicking you hear could be a relay (which is a switch on the control board) that is opening and closing trying to send voltage down to the motor. If that is in fact the clicking you are hearing, it's a good sign that the control board is working properly and you should NOT worry about that noise. Something else has gone wrong in the motor circuit and my guess would be a thermal fuse or a belt. If the belt is good, check the fuse on the dryer with a multimeter.
Hope this helps, man. Let me know if you have any other questions!
I have a 21 year old stackable. When I push the button the dryer turns on but turns off once I release the button or if the button is pushed down too long. The last time I pushed it, it smelled like something was burning.
It is possible that the belt could have broke. Does it smell like burn rubber?
Very well presented .. I found it very helpful. Woking on a Whirlpool Model YWED4850HW0. Dryer not turning on. However, I was almost stumped with the press-to-start switch action. I removed the switch from the panel for the check. Easy to do, I pulled off the knob from the front panel and after disconnecting the two wiring connectors from the switch I was able to remove it with just a quarter turn action. There is a locking tab on the switch that you need to pull toward you to enable the turning action of the switch. I checked the continunity of the start contact ( blue wires ) as noted on your video. I had continuity when I pushed on the switch. However, I found when I reninstalled the switch I had to hold the switch at the back for the contact to make with the knob action from the front. At least for now, I know what the problem is and I will replace the switch when I get a chance. Your troubleshooting help managed to get me through the problem. Thanks
Hey Brendan!
Happy you enjoyed the video! Just so I'm clear, did the issue with your dryer end up being the push to start switch? This isn't a common repair so I am curious!
As you push down the push to start button, the two blue wires would be checking for continuity across the SWITCH. That being said, there is also a PINK wire that is attached to the push to start button on your model. This pink wire goes to the COIL inside the push to start switch.
Take one of your leads and put it on the LEFT blue wire, and then take the other lead and put it on the pink wire (while the wires are connected to the push to start). Once your leads are in place, push down the push to start switch. This checks to make sure the coil inside the switch is not broken.
The coil is an important part because it momentarily gets energized and forms an electromagnetic field that causes the actual SWITCH (which you checked) to close so the current can flow through.
Let me know if all of this makes sense and if you were able to get it repaied.
@@theappliancedudes Hello Appliance Dudes. Thanks for getting back to me - happy to try and clarify what I experienced. In a nutshell I found the action of the push-to-start was the problem. I had removed the push-to-start switch to test it .. no problem when I had it on the bench. I should mention that that the problem I had to begin with was intermittent failure to start .. sometimes I found if I favoured one side of the push button knob I got contact. I suspected the mechanical action of the switch was the problem. When I reinstalled it .. I left a bit of a gap between the faceplate on the dryer and the push knob. No problem with start action - tried a few times. I'm sure however if I push the knob all toward the faceplate I will run out of 'stroke' to make the switch. My hunch is it's an inherent flaw in the design .. possibly the faceplate metal has too much give and causes the switch itself to move with the push action of the knob. Also, most opeartors tend to 'punch' the switch with a lot more force that is needed. Kinda think I'm overthinking it here .. but I did find my hunch was right from the beginning .. especially as the unit is June 2020 so fairly new. It is also possible that the action of the switch is compromised but I'm getting no indication of that on either a physical inspection or electrical funtional capability. I might have to change it in future however and if I do I will be sure to let you know. For now, however works great.
Hey Brendan
Seems like you're already a pretty hands on guy! Regardless, we're happy this video could be of service to you.
Pete
Samsung dryer, won't start, but clicks once, instead of starting. Changed thermal, changed the control panel, looked at circuit board on the panel, (no blowputs) idk at a loss. Any idea? Belt is fine!
Hey Veronica,
Do you have any power on the dryer? Lights etc? Have you checked the outlet?
@@theappliancedudes having the same problem with a Maytag model #MED5100DW0, it allows me to select the cycle and everything, all the lights on the display board work but when I press the start button it just clicks once and then does nothing, lights on the display remain on and timer display countdown remains on. Dryer door light and everything works, I've tested the thermal fuse, start switch, door switch etc all the steps that you've gone through, I'm thinking it could be my centrifugal switch. Thoughts?
I have a Whirlpool dryer that will run but you really have to hit on the start switch to get it to start. So I’m assuming the start switch is going bad?
Yes I’d say so. The coil on the inside of the switch is probably defective
What about checking fan to see if something is stop it from turning
You would hear the motor trying to spin.
@@theappliancedudes my sisters just maje humming noses that all I check fan ok rollers have length on it alittle fuse is ok what eles can it be
Hope you help on this one, I replaced rotary encoder switch and the dryer thermostat and still does not turn on , I notice that the internal light bulb powers on when plugged in, but the led on the control panel its not on like it used to be (little green diode or led indicador on the control panel), also the internal light bulb on dryer goes off when I close the door switch, so I have that option discarded
What is the model number of the appliance?
Also, just to clarify.
Is the issue you’re having with the dryer that it won’t start spinning or that there is now power
To the display board?
@@theappliancedudes MDGT446AWW Maytag
@@theappliancedudes there Is no power to the display board, the only power I have Is the dryer light bulb once Is plugged in
@@jcarlosibarra8579 is it a gas or electric model?
My whirlpool dryer getting power but would not start also the drum won't come on check the lid switch the termalfuse the on switch there is power on the unit but won't come on, how I test the timer
I have a whirlpool dryer sometimes when you press start button it will come on and run for a min and cut off. Then you have to cycle the timer all the way around and back to get it to start back again? Any suggestions?
Replace the timer. Chances are you have bad timer contacts. As the timer is rotating, it’s breaking the contacts.
Does it every run fully or does it usually stop in the same spot?..
Yes after i push start a couple times and hold it down for a second it will usually run through
@@Thanks_For_Playing1304 you could have a bad push to start or your timer could be defective. Sounds to me like you have an intermittent time, but there is no way without proper testing
Thank you. Thermal fuse, just like you and a family member said. Amazon has a 3 pack for 5 dollars
Great vid! Mine has power “240 “ - door switch- thermal fuse - start button- and the thermostats all have continuity. No hum ,no sound at all. Removed timer and it looks ok- no scorching or signs of malfunction. I’m at a loss! Any help would be very much appreciated!
Hey David,
Can you send me the model number of the appliance :) this will let me look at the circuit for it
We’re you able to check the belt? When there is no hum, this can be very indicative of a broken or loose belt. You shouldn’t be able to put your finger under the belt
Belt tight - drum turns with normal resistance. Mod- AED4675YQ1. Ser. M41558845
THANK YOU!
@@Dodgerdoes Thanks for getting back to me with the model number!
I had a chance to go over the electrical diagram of your exact dryer, and I have strong reason to believe that if everything else checked out okay, then you are most likely dealing with a bad timer.
Here is how to check for your specific model:
1. Remove the back part of the dryer that covers the timer, push to start switch etc, (just like you see in the video)
2. Plug your dryer in, and turn the timer knob to a NORMAL cycle
3. Locate the timer in the back of the dryer
4. Grab your multimeter and set it to VOLTS AC (Make sure you're not testing for DC voltage)
5. Take your red lead on your multi meter and touch it to the BLACK wire on your timer (Labeled "C" on the timer)
6. With you read lead touching the black wire on the timer, take your other lead, and touch it to ANY ground screw (green screw) on the appliance (typically you want to touch a neutral line, but for simplicity purposes, touch your one lead to a green screw on the appliance
7. You should be reading 120VAC (Volts). If you pass this test, go to step 8.
8. With your red lead still touching the black wire on the timer, take your other lead off the ground screw (green screw) and touch it against the LIGHT BLUE wire on the timer (labeled "B" on your dryer)
7. You should be reading 0 VOLTS now. If you read 120 volts during step 8, this would mean that your timer contact that is responsible for sending voltage to your motor is OPEN and the entire timer would need to be replaced.
If you live in the United States, it is best to order your parts here:
bit.ly/3q8Ky8n
they will have your part to you in 2 days
Please let me know if this helps!
@@theappliancedudes
Big Thanks!
Black to ground 101 v ac
Black to blue 0 v ac
Is this thing cursed?
How about a f01 code? On a whirlpool duet dryer
Please help 🙏
This typically refers to a loose wire on the control board! The control board could be faulty. The dryer you see in this video is controlled by a timer. The dryer you have is controlled by a control board!
I cant seem to figure mine out. I thought the light went out inside the dryer, but later realized I have no power to anything on the dryer. It no longer clicks like a quiet clock when I turn the timer, it wont start and the light inside is out. The outlet has 250v. All the sensors seem to check out so far. Is there a main fuse to everything maybe??
The plug itself could be defective! Look at the connects where the plug attaches to the dryer chassis
@@theappliancedudes oh this was weeks ago lol. It was the door sensor
@@dlf1976 sorry I get so many comments! I’m happy you figured it out!
Proper continuity check of the thermal fuse requires 1 lead to be removed from the fuse. OR, with dryer plugged in, continuity is verified if both sides of the fuse have 120V.