How to Model Peeling Paint
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2024
- This video shows you how to create an amazing peeling paint effect in just 4 easy steps. The secret ingredient is hair spray!
Peeling paint is all around us on dilapidated and not so dilapidated buildings. It only takes a few years and the elements will easily attack a thin layer of paint causing it to peel off.
There are so many techniques for peeling paint but this one uses hairspray to act as a resist. You paint the wood colour and then add a coat of hairspray. After a while spray another thin coat of paint. Using just water and a brush (although I've used a scouring pad when the paint was too stubborn) you can remove the final paint layer. Depending on the paints used, you can get varying effects.
I find Tamiya is much more resistant so gives a very different effect to Vallejo. That's why my base coat is always Tamiya as it stands up to any scrubbing.
If you look at peeling paint in the real world then exposed surfaces and areas where water rest will peel first. The area under the eaves is often more protected and so peels less than more exposed walls.
Materials
AK Interactive - Wood Base - AK 779
Extra-hold Hairspray
Vallejo white paint - 001
Mig Washes - Warm White (P301), Dark (P220) and Neutral (P222)
Enamel Thinners
Index
00:10 The Real World
00:28 Method
10:29 Final Result
10:56 Mini Kathys
12:38 Close
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Kathy you out did yourself on this one, absolutely awesome looking, thanks for the tip.
Thanks George - and it's so easy to do.
I've seen plenty of videos using sponged-on colours to simulate old faded and peeling paint, but this is by far the best method I have seen. I never thought of using hair spray as a base coat. Being old school, I have tried using rubber cement but the results were nowhere near as realistic as your method. Thanks for this video Kathy and for your easy to follow directions.
Great. Will use this method on my n gauge layout. Love watching your videos. Keep up the brilliant work.
The Train Dude thanks a lot. Let me know how it turns out.
I love your attention to detail and especially like the fact that your voice is so easy to listen to. happy New year!! I can watch you and listen all day long.
Happy New Year!
Kathy, thanks for all your how to videos, always looking forward to your next one
Hawkes HO Layout Thanks! There'll be another one along on Thursday.
somehow, this video escaped me but im glad I found it, great work on the chipped paint and the weathering washes, looks amazing. Always exciting to see the mini Kathys as well. Cheers Rob
Thanks again Kathy. Just used this technique on a OO plate layers hut and it's turned out absolutely fantastic. Looking forward to more of your railway videos.
Thanks a lot, they'll be coming up again soon.
wow I would have never thought about that much detail on a model but as you walk around and just look at garages and other older buildings, peeling paint is every where, very good idea Kathy. oh dang I even looked at my house, the front door and window need painting, well I know what I am doing for a couple hours this weekend now
That peeling paint appears too soon on my house too! I think it's great to have detail on models as it adds to the realism. My layout is relatively small compared to many (triple deck 12' square) so I can afford to have the detail on it. I do tend to detail the buildings near the front more as it helps reinforce that the rest is as good!
Absolutely brilliant, thank you Kathy 👍
Really great stuff Kathy! You are a fantastic modeler with great techniques! Thank you so much for all the info.
~Deryk
DG Modelworks Thanks Deryk, glad you like the videos.
I came here after watching your interior video. When I saw the peeling paint I needed to find this video and see how you did it. :) It looks really good. I like how it even adds some bubbled up paint in areas. Nice technique. Thanks for sharing it.
Terranscapes Thanks a lot! I do love it as a technique and it is easy to use.
outstanding results , indeed one of the best examples of peeling paint i have seen. well done
digger evans Thanks a lot, glad you enjoyed it.
another brilliant job Cathie. Love your video's. keep them coming.
Thanks Gary - I've got plans for a year's worth at least of videos and I keep thinking up more so they'll definitely still be coming.
That's great Kathy. I especially love the details you add. Keep up the good work.
Your videos are always quite good, and you cover many topics that I don't see covered elsewhere. I am not entirely sure how you only have 2300 subs, you are deserving of many more. Keep at it and I am sure your channel will grow.
Skoo Zi thanks so much for the positive comments. Subscriber numbers are growing but I guess it takes time.
Great tutorial! There is a lot of good information. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks John
Wow!!! I love this technique and I need to try it soon.
+joannesminis Glad you liked it. It's really easy too.
Great work Kat as always!!! Funny stuff at the end bro'!!!
Thanks
Love it! ❤👍
Thanks!
GREAT !! Thanks for sharing.
Thanjs
Brilliant!
+Matthew T Thanks!
super tutorial. many thanks
Armour Empire thanks a lot.
Another shared to friends who like Notlobia
That looks great. I will try that on some old time ice box cars
Good luck!
Kathy, also U can paint thin coats of paint then apply rubber cement or contact glue then paint over the glue a top coat. After pain is just tacky so won't smear use a rubber eraser or an old yypewritter eraser and rub till you remove the desired amount of paint. To make the wood older and peeling..
I’ve done that many times and it’s a great technique. Thanks for mentioning it.
great videos and great tip keep it up
Thanks Lee. Appreciate the comment.
Another fine one. :-)
Thanks Jeff
Hi Kathy have done any videos for sci-fi models, great video by the way, ive watched all of them, some great tips you give.
+shaun smith My most recent one was Halo but other than that, I've been concentrating more on scenery. I do love sci fi though!
Kathy I'm building a 1/35 scale building and the siding is balsa wood. I've textured the boards for grain effect and seeing you video made me wonder if this technique will work on balsa wood. Maybe use enamel for base coat then acrylic after hair spray? Love you videos.
+Sooner Steve Thanks! I would use the Chuck Doan technique for peeling paint on wood. I did do a video on it. czcams.com/video/6ixs8V7x00c/video.html
Another great video of excellent tips, thank you Kathy.
Nothing to do with this subject - today at the supermarket I saw bags of dried bay leaves and parsley which had become broken and crushed. They looked very realistic to represent leaves, either growing on trees or as litter underneath.
But I wondered if they would grow mouldy and deteriorate.
Please have you any experience of using such herbs?
renard801 hi, I often use dried plant material and depends on your conditions. I don't live in a particularly humid area. If you are worried then I would seal the area with a spray Matt varnish afterwards which should help but overall, a lot of modellers successfully use natural materials. One caveat though, the colours may fade with time compared to dyed leaf colour.
nice...tyank you
Thanks a lot!
would this work on a less textured surface like a slab sided old swithcer?
Yep, it should work fine. I've used it on a car float with large flat surfaces and it worked like a dream.
Was that grey on the house primer that you put it on beforehand?
I prime all my plastic models with Halfords automotive primer. It’s a rattle can but is a nice primer.
That's a pretty cool technique Kathy! Been watching a few of your how to videos and just subscribed to your channel. Do youbhave a video of your layout at all? Would love to check it out!
maxanddad1 Hi, thanks! I am doing a video of the layout which will be up when I finish the scale house series.
Kathy would this technique work on plastered buildings or just plastic...Thanks, great videos by the way
Junglelands It will work. I would seal the plaster well with a good primer (I'm in the UK and use Halfords car primer), then paint your colour and hair spray layers. As long as the primer is robust, you'll be fine. I would recommend a very thin top coat in a more delicate paint like Vallejo as it will come off easily. I find Tamiya needs more scrubbing. Leave a bit of water on the surface fir a while if it's stubborn.
Kathy Thanks for your prompt reply, I'm also in the UK Never try Halfords primer before always used Vallejo, just wondering could you use Halfords primer on scale models, I'm an armour modeller. Your videos are very helpful regardless what you build, very handy indeed, Thanks kathy
I always use Halfords Grey Prmer (sometimes red on brick buildings) or their Matt black spray paint as a primer. I don't find it a problem on fine models but I'd experiment a little first if you are worried. It is a little cheaper so the pigments probably are larger than a Tamiya primer say.
Another great video and definitely a technique I'm going to use. I'm a recent subscriber but totally addicted, however, you need to sack the continuity woman! ;-)
I wish I could film everything on one day then continuity would be easy - as it is, you can see the passage of time...
Glad you enjoyed the video.
This came out great. Are these plastic kits?
Yes, they are small plastic kits.
Kathy Millatt thank you. And again they came out amazing as usual😃
Another good video and a technique used extensively in military modelling so out of interest have you ever tackled an armour vehicle kit?
Mark Crocker hi, almost, but as part of sci if dioramas. I've done a Humvee, a mine clearance vehicle and a Stryker. I must take some better photos though as the dioramas need their finishing touches.
These are some fairly generic photos:
www.kathymillatt.co.uk/blog/2014/11/11/motorway-mayhem/
www.kathymillatt.co.uk/blog/2011/12/31/transformers-final-photos/
Thanks
Excellent work. I'm involved in both disciplines and there should be more crossover. The military guys produce some amazing work.
Mark Crocker I do love military modelling techniques. We have so much to learn from them. I know that their scale is bigger than most railway scales but that's why I dabble in sci-if, to get the extra detail that I love doing.
Having watched Mig do some sci-fi techniques I know that it is in my future! Anyway, I'm caught up on most of your videos now. A great series and you have a watchable style. Looking forward to the next ones.
Is that gold leaf foil on the windows?
No. Just acetate I think.
this will help my ww2 train set so much thank you
Thanks Brad. It's an easy technique so good luck.
It looks like a good idea and the pictures at the end look realistic. The only complaint I have is I couldn’t see anything you were doing. If you just held it up to the camera as you did each step would make it easier to understand. Thanks for sharing though.
Hi. Check out my later videos and you’ll see that I now do much closer shots.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I will check them out.
Great vid, if you wet your brush a bit more it wouldve chipped off a but more easily. Cheers!
I find too much water and the whole lot comes off. It’s finding the right balance for your paint.
you may use egg white mixed into paint and later use hair dryer to get the chipping effect
+Michał Przybyłowski Wow, I've not heard that one before but it makes sense.
Vallejo/mig/ak paint will peel in sheets. tamiya is much better paint to chip with. thin with a little x20a 2:1 and a drop of water.
cdrseabee Thanks for the input. I've used both and the Vallejo is more of a plastic film.
Please zoom the camera and show us how you apply the wash.. It's not visible
I’ve added another camera in since this video to get better close ups.
Why such a tiny sample? Am I missing something? One cannot make out a serious understanding and example of this technique. Your information is interesting but I'm not sure if it really will work on a large project.
This is part of a larger project that just happens to be HO scale.
It should work at any size though.
That's not a bad effect at all.
I use a similar but different effect using salt.
1: Spray your model the colour it would be underneath (wood, metal, previous paint shade)
2: Mix a paste of salt and water (something the consistancy of toothpaste)
3: Apply the paste where you want the paint to have peeled off
4: When dry, spray the model the colour you want it to be (clean, or weathered mottled)
5: When dry, wash the model with water, lightly scrubbing with water.
The salt will dissolve taking the paint that was on top of it away with it.
It has the bonus effect of leaving a crusty edge, like dry raised paint that would flicker off if it were flicked (on the 1:1 item).
Here's an example of a freight wagon I've done.
i.imgur.com/vVveBHI.jpg
Cliffjumper24 hi, I love the salt technique too, I just find it hard to make it small enough in HO sometimes. It's a great effect though and I'll be doing a video on it at some point.
Kathy Millatt You can get fine grade salt.... or alternatively, crush normal table-salt with a rolling pin into a powder, or put it in a tea strainer (how do you spell 'ciff, siff?) grinding it with your thumb.
Wow, I didn't think you could crush table salt! Mine is incredibly fine anyway but it's getting it to stick in a fine enough manner that I also struggle with. I found it flaked off a lot or was too thick. Having said that, it looked great the last time I did it and you do get a realistic effect.
Kathy Millatt
If it was flaking too much, maybe you should try watering it down a little bit, and do some experimentation on some scraps of planked plasticard.
The picture I showed, I think, shows how good the effect looks.
Incidentally, here's a book I recommend;
www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Imperial-Armour-Model-Masterclass-Volume-One
It's one of the Games Workshop companies, and it's brilliant for weathering models.
One last thing, the hangout you did with the model builders last week.... I was the person who asked about Enamel paints.
I've found british modellers are allergic to anything 'but' enamels.
As a railway modeller, wargamer and aircraft modeller, I use a range of paints and techniques, and they overlap.
For example, I've found that railway modellers don't paint 'people' (passengers etc) very well... they just paint a skin colour, hair colour, trousers/skirt colour, and shirt/bluse colour... so they look very very 'flat'.
Wargamers use shades and highlights to give the figures 'dimension'.... and that's a technique rarely seen.
Hi, I love Games Workshop and the way it encourages youngsters into our awesome hobby. I've mostly read Mig Jiminez's books so will check this one out too.
I think one of the problems with people painting is that in OO, 1/76, their faces are so small, most people can't be bothered and if you have a lot to do, then it's tempting to skimp on the detail. I know what you mean though, it's the mini people that give most railway scenes away as models. They are so hard to do convincingly.
I love acrylics although enamels have their place, and in weathering, the ability to re-dissolve and alter is a real Godsend.
If this video is about small details then WHY was the camera so far away grok the item being distressed? Move the camera IN to allow the viewer to see what you are doing.
This is a very old video and if you check out the newer ones, then you’ll see much closer camera angles.