1998 SeaDoo SPX 787 Rotax Carb Removal and Cleaning: Part 2
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- After discovering a filthy main fuel filter and old gray fuel lines in my recently purchased 1998 SeaDoo, I decided that I'd better do a thorough inspection of the carbs. On my other SeaDoo, a dirty carb caused a lean fuel situation, leading to detonation and a melted piston. It was running great and gave out with no warning before the catastrophic failure and major engine damage. Really wanted to avoid that on this machine!
This video gives a very detailed view of the steps I took to remove, dismantle, clean, and reattach the dual carburetor system on this model.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. Patrick Hollenbeck assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
Awesome Vid man!! I took mine all apart and took vids but that was 2 years or so ago, seeing this refreshed my memory and even gave me some new tips on how to do this. Esp. putting that choke cable back with those springs. The spring has two little ends that stick out that sit on tabs - i have a vid when i took mine off showing the orientation. I also took off that bracket on the mag side of the carb and just left the cable dangling in the engine bay.
This is the best carb rebuild vid available. I have worked on a lot of automotive carbs, but with this fine tutorial, a lot of time is saved... Thanks again for your hard work
Very nicely done video, I have 2 skis I am going to replace filters, hose, and rebuild carbs, I feel slightly more confident to no now… thanks
Rotax recommends not separating the carbs from the intake and just removing the 4 intake bolts and draw the entire assembly out of the ski...that way your carb to carb orientation never changes😎
Can't believe you aren't going to fix that broken off bolt? No pop-off test to check needle/seat? Other commenter suggesting adding a fuel filter is wrong. Filter in each carb, filter at bottom of fuel baffle and filter in oil/water separator is plenty. The damage to that really bad carb in your photo was from water, which a filter won't help with, and probably deterioration of those gray Tempo fuel lines caused by ethanol gas. The stock fuel filter setup is ideal and does not need to be messed with. Good job changing the fuel lines out. For folks reading this, you want 1/4" ID fuel injection line rated for ethanol gas. The fuel injection line has a higher pressure rating which is helpful because the fuel system on a 2 stroke Seadoo is always slightly pressurized.
What about the smaller fuel lines between carbs looks like those are smaller lines any idea what size
How many ft of new line do we need to buy?
great video. thank you
great job and thanks for the tips....
The gray lines 100% caused that gunk. The gray oem fuel lines break down and creates a liquid lacquer like plastic that’s when the fuel evaporates it leaves the dissolved fuel line in you carb. Go to run it and lean condition burns them up. See this all the time
I am dealing with a 97 seadoo xp with grey lines right now. I am going to be replacing them with black and cleaning the carbs throughout this week. Is there anything else i should check/clean?
I like your advice on lean mixture I'm just starting to get my 96 XP rihjt, piston burned up but caught it early checking my raves. Yours was way worse!
What size are the smaller hoses that connect the two carbs?
So the PTO Carb on the fuel filter side doesnt have a rubber gasket just the big O-Ring seal? Because i put one in mine and for some reason the ski doesnt run right, trying to see if i assembled it incorrectly. Am working on a 96’ GSX
Mag carb has the o ring because of the fuel pump block. PTO carb does not. Owner of 96 XP and 97 GSX. Get yourself a free owners manual downloaded from Seadoomanuals.net.
I had the same problem with one piston on my seadoo xp and put a hole in the piston. I got the carbs rebuilt and top end rebuilt. I set both carbs the same and it ran like a beast. I checked the plugs (one piston was perfect and that same piston was burning hot. It will run if i set the one carb rich, but it runs slow. If i set it to stock it runs good but i know the one piston is running hot because of the color on the plug and i dont want to fry that piston again. Could i have a crank seal leak causing too much air? if so what seals do i need? and how do i replace them.
Kellholm Schofield I build race engines, and I can tell you have 1 of a few problems maybe all. You have a crank seal air leak, bad fuel, too hot of spark plug, or engine timing has moved on you. Any of these things can cause detonation and burnt pistons. You most likely need a complete rebuild. Seadoo engines run into problems at about the 150 - 200 hr point in their run life. Depends on use. How hard it’s ran , like if your one of those people that run it wide open all day across the lake or just cruise around and play. Good luck with it.
that linkage only goes on one way put it on the rong way and you got problems note some one else who rebuilt b4 may have put stuff back on the wrong way just saying not say on this aplication tho.
also run a hi flow fuel filter to just b4 carb inlets and remove thoes small filters they block up to easy and it will run lean let the hi flow filter do the job thoes internal filters are crap made 4 enghine rebuilds lol.
What type of fuel filter would be best to put just before the carbs? I've heard the paper element type will block flow if any water gets in them.