Honda Power Steering Pump Rebuild 98-02 -EricTheCarGuy
Vložit
- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Rebuilding Honda power steering pumps isn't that difficult but it comes with a warning, it might not work out. I had a heck of a time with this one. In the end the fix was to just replace it. You might consider that option if you have a noisy pump. However, the rebuild kit is very affordable and if you have the time and inclination, I think it's worth a shot.
This video features my 2001 Honda Odyssey but this same pump was used on a variety of Honda and Acura vehicles from 1998-2002. In fact I think there are only a few differences between this pump and the generation before it.
Lastly I'll say that I strongly recommend you only use Honda fluid. Use of other fluids can cause issues.
Seal Kit: www.carid.com/1...
Honda 'o' ring PN 91349-P2A-003: www.hondapartsn...
Bearing PN 6209LU: www.amazon.com/...
Honda power steering fluid: www.carparts.co...
Tools.
Plastic Hammer: www.jbtoolsales...
Trans Gel: www.handsontool...
Related videos.
How To Flush Power Steering Fluid: Video link added when video is available
1999 Honda Civic Power Steering Rack Replacement (Part 1): • 1999 Civic Power Steer...
1999 Honda Civic Power Steering Rack Replacement (Part 2): • 1999 Civic Power Steer...
Useful Articles.
Electrical Problems
www.ericthecarg...
Engine overheat
www.ericthecarg...
No start problems
www.ericthecarg...
Idle issues
www.ericthecarg...
Performance issues
www.ericthecarg...
Diagnosing Noises
www.ericthecarg...
Diagnosing Vibrations
www.ericthecarg...
Brake Issues
www.ericthecarg...
Transmission issues
www.ericthecarg...
HVAC problems
www.ericthecarg...
Buying a Used Car
www.ericthecarg...
Leaks
www.ericthecarg...
MPG
ericthecarguy.c...
Discussion about this Video: www.ericthecarg...
ETCG Forum: www.ericthecarg...
Facebook: www.facebook.c...
Twitter: / ericthecarguy
Google+: plus.google.co...
Information on Premium Membership: www.ericthecarg...
Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
These long videos are the ones I like the most,,, specially when things go wrong,,,, Because let's be honest... most of us "do-it-yourselfers" hardly ever get it right the first time around. And when s**t happens one wonders... What would Eric do in this case? Well... Now we know. So many blokes would have edited the video to make it look successful at first.... That's what I like about Eric... He is honest as hell!!!!
Just watched the whole thing and was about to post this exact same thing. Great minds!
Couldn't agree more!
Very true. So much more worthwile sharing the journey rather than just the solution ("hey guys, I just put a new pump on my car check it out").
Speak for yourself!!!! Lol
Very true! I have frequently had things that didn't go as planned (even though I watched vids, read the manual etc. etc.) and it's nice to see that even the experts like Eric, have those days too. Sometimes things just don't go the way you'd like. I too ask myself WWED (What would Eric do)? Lol.
It's so nice to see *_reality_* in an automotive repair video- and not a bunch of takes and editing to simulate perfection. Thanks, Eric- for *"keepin it real".*
Its a toss-up between Dave Chappelle and ETG
Superb video i ever seen..keep in tuch..👍👍👍
I prefer they show the mistakes made instead of editing them out. This way you can learn from them
No-one else on CZcams produces auto videos that show this much integrity. Eric never did fix the original pump, but publishes his findings anyway. We learn so much from these endeavours; they help prevent similar mistakes. No wonder ETCG is still the best on CZcams.
from what i've seen in youtube the whining noise can come from several places, i fixed mine by only cleaning the filter inside the fluid reservoir when i noticed that the pump is not getting enough, now my steering is smooth as new and my ears won't bleed from that whining noise again, thanks Eric for this channel,very helpful
Wanna see what's inside a Honda power steering pump? Honda Power Steering Pump Rebuild 98-02 -EricTheCarGuy
Eric i was wondering if u could help me out a little i have a 2002 Hi-Ace van but when i put the key in it will not turn i have tried everything i have seen on youtube and still no joy
Rory Martin Are you asking Eric the Car Guy if he has a youtube?
+Rory Martin , Really?
No look at the 1st post i shared with him i am wondering if he has utube acc if so i may get some help of him there
Rory Martin If you cannot figure out if ETCG has a CZcams page then you DEFINATELY, ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY DO NOT NEED TO BE WORKING ON A CAR!!!! SMDH
When things go "wrong" (not as planned), it makes your videos so much more interesting and educational!
When rebuilding the pump, I recommend building up the internals on the rear cover with the pins, then just lower the pump on top. Much easier than trying to get everything lined up. I would not have used the assembly lube on the vanes. They need to slide in the slots as the pump spins. To me that lube is way too thick and would the vanes from moving freely. The inlet spout o-ring is notorious for going bad and sucking air. I've rebuilt 2 ps pumps on my families accords. I used all OEM parts, including replacing the bearing and my material costs was about $60. The funky shaped o-ring is the most expensive part. Finally, when I had a similar situation with a squeal after rebuilding the pump. Ended up being the tensioner pulley died when I took the belts off.
I appreciate that even when things go wrong you keep your language clean. I can comfortably watch your videos with my children. Thank you.
Carson Tait yes that’s one good thing about Eric the car guy as well as Chris Fix
Oh please... sound like one of those ultra conservative republicans that is would rather sink the whole party and vote for the devil because Trump talks a little bit rough even though it's warranted.
When I did a timing belt on my '99 Accord V6, I also tried to change the P/S fluid. Right after I did it and started the engine, the pump started whining just like here. I quickly figured out that it is sucking air, but through where? One friend suggested a new rack, other - a can of gasoline and some matches :D The issue was a pump inlet o-ring at 33:31 . Honda has a TSB for those on 04-07 Accords, but not 98-02. The original oring is black, and the updated one is yellow. Noise went away instantly! Here's a P/N: 91345-RDA-A01. Price - ~$0.75
Eric was aware of TSB but ignore it
You can save a lot of trouble by doing it differently at the 6:00 mark in your video. Instead of pulling the back cover up and off flip the whole pump over so the back cover is in the palm of your hand. Then pull the pump body up and off. The fluid in it will cause suction force so pull up slowly. As the body comes up and off the entire pump will stay with the back plate, none of the parts will get out of alignment, none of the little vanes will fall out. You have enough room to replace the weird shape large O-ring. The rest of the disassembly is the same but you never need to mess with all those pump parts. When you put it back together do it with things "aimed" the same as when you pulled it apart, back plate in palm of hand. Also there is probably no need to pull the pressure valve out but of course you can if you want. I only had mine apart to replace the rock hard o-rings so didn't take anything apart I didn't need to. Didn't moan before I did it, didn't moan after.
Eric i know u may never read this but after watching this video twice i did to the pump on my 97 prelude. It was whining and almost stalling the car. After your walkthrough, its quiet as new and turns beautifully! This is a success story to your video and it can be done! I appreciate your effort and did a few things extra. I flipped all the veins to utilize the other side of them and let the pump soak in mineral oil overnight. I did notice that the shaft has to be in a certain position so the rotor is perfectly centered. By lightly tapping the shaft fully to the back of the pump keeps the rotor centered (i think). Thank you so much. ALSO. i took that tiny valve apart and blew back through the strainer w wd40 there could have been a restriction. I never could have done my rack n pinion, ps pump and tons of other things wo u!
Wow! I feel like I just watched the professional version of what I've been monkeying around with for two days. I have an '07 Acura RDX with a leaking pump. I did exactly the same thing, disassembled and completely rebuilt the pump with all new Honda parts (roughly 10 O-rings and that one seal). The bearing was fine. When I reinstalled the pump, it was making no noise at all. However, no fluid was moving through the pump. I tried all kinds of air purging techniques and then took it apart once again, carefully following the manual and (I'd already done this originally) used a torque wrench. Installed it, again, no movement of fluid. The fluid would "back up" (overflow) the reservoir when I turned the wheel so I thought there might be a "vacuum" (kinda like vapor lock I guess) issue. I used a air compressor to force about 20-30 psi through the reservoir. The fluid would drop and then when I released the air pressure, it would rise again. I took off the low pressure inlet hose and saw that when I blew into the reservoir, the fluid would flow right out so there was no blockage. Also, before I forget, I also manually rotated the pulley before reattaching the serprentine belt and still no pump/fluid flowing. Therefore, I removed the pump (3rd time now) and double checked the pressure relief valve, doing the blow test according to the manual, no issues. If anything I was concerned the spring (ball) valve inside the valve is too tight (I'm sure it's just the way if should be). The point of that test is to make sure it's not allowing low psi to bypass the valve which it definitely is not and I went up to 30 p.s.i. and then I thought maybe I'd installed the spring in the wrong order. After watching your video, I realized the error (I thought). Your pump (pressure relief valve assembly) has the spring on the top (valve goes in first, then spring, then cap) so I double checked and the manual on my pump shows a different order (spring first, then valve, then cap). There's no reason for me to break it down entirely and I'd already done it twice and same result. However, you added fluid into the chamber before buttoning it up so I'm going to do the same. Perhaps there is too much air and no fluid at start up and therefore the pump has nothing to create any flow. I am tempted to try the spring on the top (valve first, then spring, then cap) just as a last resort (which is knowing you're doing something pointless but still curious like you mention). I can't imagine the repair manual from Acura being wrong but I can't find another video of my exact pump so I may just by a new one if all else fails. Thank you nonetheless for demonstrating what can happen, your perseverence, and final acceptance of defeat. The irony is that I watched a video of my same vehicle where the mechanic shows how to replace it only. I commented that it would be cheaper to change out the seals and he said, "good luck with that, no time for in on my end". go figure...
Eric, I lost my BEST DIY mech in ‘11 when my dad passed. Developed an attitude from my steering system & watched your vid. Honey, this was a trip down memory lane & you reminded me of so many of his “cheats” to do the job right. I thank you, as does my mom, since it’s her vehicle I’ll be fixing. Awesome instruction!!!
I really appreciate this video Eric. It is good to show that sometimes what seems to be a rather easy fix has many hidden complexities.
I really feel for you Eric. I worked in the R.O.V. industry and we used many hydraulic pumps and motors. Typically we always replaced defective units with either new or factory rebuilt units but sometimes you simply do not have a choice. Most hydraulic motors look remarkably like the Honda Power Steering Pump. Even with the manuals trying to rebuild a motor was always hit or miss. There are several points of failure, including returning each vane to the same slot. Things tend to wear differently on a microscopic level and actually kinda want to go exactly where they were before.
We only tried to rebuild a motor when we did not have a choice and no new or rebuilt motors were available. Experience has taught me that the most economical solution is to return the bad motors to the factory for rebuild and keep an adequate stock of motors on hand.
I own a 2005 Acura TL. And my power steering pump was leaking along with making a whine sound. There was a recall on the o-ring outlet that got changed out but the leaking and turning whine was still existing.
I got my uncle who is a mechanic to do a full rebuilt of the o-rings for the pump. I ordered all rings from Acura dealer so about 8 of them costing about $19 bucks total with tax.
When he opened it up the large ring you had trouble with was brittle and flat. The inside ones were also flat. So I knew I got them done at the right time or else it would cost me a new pump.
After all rings were replaced and lubed with Honda PSF everything worked out fine for me. There was no air, no whine or leaking from the pump. But I used all OEM rings from Honda, compared to aftermarket, I have had issues with aftermarket parts in the past such as alternators, belts and pulleys so for the rings I figured just to still with OEM for precision.
Glad you got the oddy fixed.
I had my pump in pieces before I watched the whole thing! I might not have dove in had I seen the trouble you had, but fortunately for me, mine went together just fine and with no noise. on my 99 Accord, the inlet fitting is on the top of the pump, so I added fluid to the pump after installing it. Its a slow process, waiting for the fluid to seep in, but I wasted none of that liquid gold Honda PS fluid. I drained the fluid after rebuilding the pump and refilled. I had a bit of noise until I filled the reservoir all the way to the Full Line. It's been a few days and 100 miles and so far, no leaks. I bought the Gates seal kit from RockAuto for $11, sure beat $100+ for a Name Brand Reman. Doesn't take all that much more time to rebuild. Thanks Eric.
I am GLAD you showed this, Eric. Many times we as mechanics get the blame for a lot of things by customers and our bosses. This video is an excellent example of how even when something is properly done, things can and DO still fail. It happens to all of us.
I know this is old but maybe some added info will help others in the future. Green AC o-rings do a good job of sealing the inlet to the pump, they tend to have more diameter (if you get those) and a very good handling of oils. The rear case o-rings on these pumps are fickle, dielectric grease helps to seal and seat them. RTV as a last ditch but only a little as too much will mess up the pump and rack internals if it comes loose. If the pump isn't leaking after a rebuild but it is making noise after sitting awhile (from the oil seeping out), its sucking air from the inlet or before it, blasing it with PB I find does a good job of temp sealing it and quieting it up enough to find the air leak. Older versions of these pumps are VERY similar between the 4cyl models and the 95 to 97 V6 models, as some of the internal parts are identical, but are flipped backwards due to H22s' and C27s' being flipped from each other. That small metering valve thing held in with a clip I've seen cause problems, not sure why they crap out though. I've also seen those hard hoses that feed the pump cause strangeness from being TOO hard and not sealing causing air leaks and loss of fluid.
I love how Eric shows the problems n mistakes you come across while working on any vehicle n doesn't edit out the truth.
Hey Eric, I've been watching your videos for a long time and there're really fascinating. I've been a mechanic for over 8 years now and through out those years, I've learned a lot of things by myself which made things working wrong to right and I'd like to share some of those related to this with you.
a) Whenever you're bleeding a power steering system, lift the front wheel up a bit (still touching the ground) so that you can go lock to lock with less effort and much quicker. Also, this allows any air trapped inside the system to rush out quickly. And once you do this couple of times, (the pump may be still noisy) stop the engine, bring the wheels fully on to the floor. Leave the engine stopped for like 5 to 10 minutes and correct the PS oil level. PS oil tends to mix with air bubbles very cleverly and it's really hard to remove those air bubbles by just keeping the engine running. When the system is not working, air bubbles escape out of oil and come out through the reservoir. Now start the engine and go ahead with the bleeding again. Repeat this for two three times and you'll get much better result. I've done this and got super results.
b) A very badly whining PS pump can be quieten down with around 10-30% addition of CVT oil. This is a cheap fit for poor customers who cannot afford a new pump or a rebuild with all extra costs involved; parts, labour, oil, etc. This is also, personal experience and got good results.
Hope this might help you next time. Cheers!
For someone with limited car repair experience showing the entire process, failures and all, is super helpful. Thanks for this.
Eric, I really appreciated this video. Especially the correct technique of inserting the bearing by applying the load onto the appropriate inner/outer rings, avoiding the 'brinneling' of the ball races. However I looked up the bearing NTN6209LU and saw its dimensions of 45 x 85 x 19 and thought, god, that guy's got big hands!!! The last digit certainly looks like a 9 but I think you will find that its a 3. Bearing no 6203LU is 17 x 40 x 12.
About to do this on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra. I was rooting for you to find and fix that problem. Good to see that you owned up to not being able to figure it out and keep all that in there. Speaks powerfully of your integrity. Oh, and I always replace those spring clamps. Replaced a radiator and reused the spring clamps. Dumped all the transmission fluid as a result. Last time I reused those things.
hey ETCG, i appreciate you struggling through all this, youve worked very hard at your expense for all of us enthusiasts, new machanics, and just people who are interested. thank you.
Thanks so much for the video! I got my seal kit on Amazon for $12, way better than spending over $100 on a new pump. The pump on my Acura Integra is now brand new haha. By the way it's way easier to place the housing with the bearing on top of the housing cover with the pump internals. It helped keep that weird shaped gasket perfectly in place with no wrestling.
Also for you guys that are looking to try this please do it's very straight forward. Like Eric said the pump is designed to be pump back together in only one way so you won't get lost. Those two extra seals in the end were for the end of the pressure hose.
You can't do this with hand tools! You need a vice and an impact drill to take off that pulley.
I´ve rebuild/reseal a lot of this pumps (Not only hondas, other brands are the same) and I think that your problem was the assembly lube. It was too sticky, this vane pumps are suposed to be assembled with the fluid so that the vanes can float on the rotor.
That would make sense, the vanes can't float freely because of the sticky lube. Maybe after some use it would have dissipated.
@@KidMillions but then what was causing the pump noise originally (his bearing was ok) ??
@@KidMillions You'd think the centripetal force would throw those veins right out of their slots regardless of stickiness tho.
Exactly
I know this was probably frustrating for you Eric, but vids like this where things go wrong are so much more educational than a lot of the others online where they cut out the struggling, which is the reality of a lot of car work in my experience. Nice job.
I always enjoy your little quips: "There's your prize.", "So the kit's good for at least one." "Ow, my face!", "I'm not sure I needed to take this little thing out, but I was curious what was behind it."
BTW, at 15:25, it looks like you reuse the O-ring on the back side, instead of using a new one from the kit.
Excellent tutorial. Now I bet you could do 20 more pumps and not have a single problem.
Thank you Eric for your videos,
actually I have 2 suggestion for this sound reasons and it may helpful,
the first is i think these little vanes must be placed in the same place that was in and the same side, if not it might revers the side it was rotate in and it may have some different clearance between them.
the other thing that you remove the outlet secondary valve and start the car then reinstall it after it is filled with the fluid.
My power steering pump was leaking a bottle of fluid every few days. Followed your video, now going on 3 days no leaks at all! Great video!
Nothing beats brand new, Genuine Honda power steering pumps; pricey, but satisfaction guaranteed. I went through the same exact drill chasing down the noise.
I had the same exp while fixing my 04 civic's power pump. Tried everything...then came to see your tutorial. I thought I was the only one who failed at this...but I guess these pumps should be replaced instead of ...taking all this hardwork...
It was good learning though !
I live in Pakistan...and here we get a modern Electric Motor for power steering almost the same price as of a new power pump...
Thats a much better option...takes load off the engine...the steering becomes very light as compared to mechanical pump...
You have to reinstall the metal plates in the vanes each in its original home inside the pump + to take notice not only for the inside/outside orientation but also up/download because with time each one will have aged to its home --> if mixed, you will loss compression due to excess wear for mixing vanes and their metal plates.
Eric, all the trial and error attempts while trying to fix cars and motorcycles since my teenage years came back to me while watching this video. You now have a new virtual friend. I just now subscribed.
Thank you for posting this video. Very well done. You saved me about $225. I had a quote for $350 from local mechanic. I never worked on anything other than Chevy's and was intimidated to work on my wife's 2002 Honda Van until I watched your video. I opted for the remanufactured pump due to time constraint ($107). Was surprised it only took about an hour thanks to your video.
As some other have pointed out, I find greasing the vanes to be a likely cause for the problem. If the clearance between the vane and the gap is tiny, the grease has a really hard time getting out of the gap IMO. The other and less likely suspect might be in the way you were reinstalling the bearing. In my mind, you should be hitting the inner part of the bearing, not the outer (with the socket). Most probably, the bearing is not susceptible to this kind of damage anyway... Another good theory is the fact that the vanes exchanged their "homes", but again, I don't think this is the real problem. So... I would convict the grease. Unless someone has done exactly this thing with grease and it worked out fine?
The Splines on the shaft and coupling will also wear, even a small amount will change the flow of fluid and make noise, also the vanes will wear from the fluid friction (Yes fluid moving over metal will wear the metal), Cheap bearings that have too much play when new will change the angle of the vanes to housing which also will kill the pump. Not all pumps can be rebuilt, even a number of new factory ones are trashed because of (internal mating problems inside the pump) after manufacture. A good used OEM pump or a new OEM pump is the best bet if available.
ANSWER
the FLAT side of the vanes should face the outside...for sealing/pressure and not rocking.
In vane style pumps like these, fluid in the small channel ( =higher pressure) machined in the plate, through to the circular holes at inside of the rotor (the inward side of the vanes) pressurizes the vanes outward to the chamber walls.
If the rounded side is outwards it doesnt make/keep pressure well, and rides unlevel, thats the noise youre hearing.
In pneumatic vane pumps you will also likely have a spring between the vane and rotor.
Hope it helps.
Love the show
Makes sense, but you can clearly see at 6:02 when he first pulled it apart that the vanes are installed with the rounded ends on the outside.
I had this same situation over here in Vegas out my Honda dealership I work at on one of my personal power steering pumps. Only thing I didn’t switched out was pressure relieve valve and the bearing, I switched all and went ahead and after a grueling 3.5 hours later I went and flushed the entire system as well and finally my noise went away. Still lost of it was any of the parts I’ve switched out or if it was it’s flushing the system 🥴 I’m gonna take my W and run as far away as I can lol Honda Tech Out ☠️
Videos like this are why I love EricTheCarGuy videos. He doesn't just show best case scenario. He takes you through the process he goes through.
If you think about it, the 4 bolts on the back of the main housing that you did not torque correctly are the bolts that really needed to be tightened correctly. They hold all the guts together along with the weird O-ring. Why you just turned hillbilly and ran 'em down good and tight there for one step is beyond me. Torque it down properly (torque wrench) to ensure the O-ring and internal parts are seated correctly, sheesh!
Sometimes a replacement part is the only answer. Recently did a job replacing the p.s. pump on my 1985 VW Golf. Couldn't undo the pressure line connection for the life of me, tried penetrating fluid, heat, cold, you name it. Finally had to remove the pump with the hose attached, disconnecting it at the steering rack. Even on a vise the line couldn't be removed resulting in a rounded nut. Had to cut the line close to the fitting and use a GO2 socket which finally removed it, great tool by the way. Turned out the threads were rusted to the pump making the removal difficult. May attempt rebuilding the old pump but am leary of the rust and what damage may be within and whether it's worth it. Anyway, thanks for the video!
I tried to rebuild my 2001 Honda pump before even seeing this video and got the same result as Eric: noise at crawling-speed turns. To all the people saying it's the repositioned vanes making the noise: you're wrong. Air is getting into the system somehow, that's why there's bubbles in the reservoir. It seems to be a seal issue.
Little trick I used found useful use magnet on the back piece when removing w pump upside down when in sides come out the vanes stay in exact same spots
Well Eric thank you for showing this detailed video people often think that working on cars is easy and it require no skill at all I admire your efforts and dedication
The vanes & surfaces they contact are worn beyond tolerance. And when the vanes fell out during disassembly, they were re-inserted in different positions, which probably exaggerate the clearances. Thus, when the pump was reassembled, it cavitated the fluid which caused bubbles of gas to form. It looks like air is being suck in from outside but it's actually gas from the fluid itself.
And when these bubbles collapse, a shock wave is produced which in turn causes noise to emanate from the pump. Here it sounds like metal contacting metal but in larger pumps can sound like rubble or rocks rolling inside the pump. Cavitation also accelerates the wear of the components too so once it has started, is impossible to resolve unless the worn elements are replaced or the speed of the pump is reduced (not an option here).
Since the pump body is a wear part itself, replacing just the vanes isn't sufficient. Consequently, the whole pump has to be replaced.
I would have used a rubber band to hold the vanes in place during pump disassembly.
I have found teachers to be the stupidest customers lol
Graham Harris Graham yes you are correct it would help putting a rubber band around the vanes before removal.
Cheers mick hall
there is a filter on the ps pump. etcg clogged it with assembly lube.
Graham Harris Graham Remember that these pumps are hardened, which is why you only need to change the seals to make them work again.
That being said, the variability in dimensions of critical components inside these worn pumps is actually very low, so you'll need to be careful only when the shape matters. This is assuming the pump is still reusable, though, and not noticably worn out.
Some Saginaw pumps do require vanes to be replaced in the exact setting in which the vanes came out because of a slightly rounded end.
When the power steering reservoir fluid level around the the returning line is fluctuating a lot, it means the fluid is not enough. Therefore, adding more fluid gradually and stop the engine to let air out, top it slightly above the max. line every time (because there is always some air inside) will kill the noise. This is at least occur to my Odyssey. Good luck!
Great Video!! Thank you for showing the REAL World. Great Job, you did all you could. Sometimes it just doesn't work out and you just have to replace the part. Thank you, when mine goes on my Acura I will just replace the Pump thanks to your experience. Please keep making these Videos, you and camera man Brian are Great!
This video helped in rebuild my pump for my 05 Odyssey (similar pump setup) and so far all is good and I didn't use any of the grease he used. The way I bled the air out of the system it only whined for less than a half a second. I ordered all the parts I needed including the bearing from Majestic Honda.
I have worked on many vane pumps. What had me worried was when the EXACT position or each vane was lost. Its worse than just getting the smooth side back on the outside. Each vane MUST go back together, same side up, contact or smooth part of vane same leading edge and each vane in the same slot. Everything wears into a fit pattern that has to be maintained. When you disassemble/reassemble you MUST not loose the original fit. We learned about the value of good junk yard parts. I would trust a junk yard honda pump over anyones rebuilt. You have taught us just how fussy this kind of job is.
Problem with fluid pumps is if they have been sucking air for a while the cavitation can eat the metal to cause clerance issues and lead to even more cavitation. Also had a lot of problems in the past with pumps that have divorced reservoirs like this where the strainer in the reservoir gets clogged with crud and the pump can't be feed fluid properly which leads to heat and cavitation.
good video. In my experience even the cheap rebuilt power steering pumps are just as bad. Working at an independent shop, I refused to put on our brand of pump. Every time I replaced one from the factory (dealer), It worked perfectly.
Eric, can i just say, fair play for trying a rebuild kit, it not working out, trouble shooting to find the problem, giving in (after a valiant effort i might add, kudos there) and actually showing all of this, instead of cutting it down and not showing what tried and showing the parts where it didnt work when it went back on.
Fair play :) This is more like what a diy enthusiast would come across, attempt a cheaper solution to find it may or may not work. Hats off mate :)
Loved the fact that it didn't work. This is the result of 99% of my mechanical efforts, so I can relate! Thanks Eric for keeping it real, and yeah, I think I'll just get a new refub.
You had a bloody good try Eric, i know the feeling of frustration when a seemingly simple device turns into a bloody nusance.
Smashing video, never seen inside that type of pump before :D :D
I have been down that road many times myself. On my own cars I will try to fix or rebuild because I don't want to spend money! If its a customer's car I go for the store bought re manufactured. I have had some defective ones, but most of the time they work and I don't have to do the job multiple times and get paid once. Thanks for the honesty!
There were witness marks on the vains, so i imagine the clearance issue caused by excessive wear on the vains makes them rattle in their corresponding slots and as the pump rotates it cycles each of the vains in and out causing a rotary sounding noise, thats my theory
I has to replace the pulley belt to my power steering pump and while i was at it the other belts on my 95 honda accord ex 2.7. You went all out for the customer for sure!
Nice job Eric! However, as you said, power steering pump is a precision machined part. I believe that when you shuffled those veins, this actually caused that noise, since they do not fit quite perfectly now. Maybe I'm wrong? But this seems logical to me.
I know this is a super old video, however, it is very enjoyable. I rebuilt a brake vacuum pump on my son's Audi and this reminded me of that. I really like the fine detail work.
man its nice to see you have so much space in there, on the crosstours it's barely possible to get a box end on the pulley bolt with the VSA modulator right next to it, this looks easy in comparison
that's fine it happens in automotive field. i would like to share that it happens to me but it was the inlet hose seal which was seating on the pump perfectly but minor difference was in size, hose was seating perfectly no leakage nothing but it was sucking air in, then i changed the seal which i am talking about and problem gone. Pump was quite and smooth with no air bubbles. check perhaps it works for you too. you did well keep it up thank you for sharing a lot of useful information that usually very hard to find in CZcams world. i have seen your a lot of videos which helped me. thank you and appreciated.
This is helpful reference for doing the pump on my car. Unrelated, but I can''t believe it's been 9 Years since you started the Fairmont!
Thanks Eric.
I like see your videos but your honesty is the most value of your work. Of course your mechanic work too. Your honesty is indescribable.
God Bless you always.
Great video that showed trial and error. Most other videos only show the successes. I too had this problem and replaced 2 pumps (trial and error, as well). Bleeding the air out of the system is the toughest part, but after numerous bleed cycles, seems to be much better (though not as quiet as the original pump I replaced. I thought it was leaking, but it was not, so wish I never swapped it out in the first place, hahaha)
I may be wrong but I think the shaft seal was letting air back in. When you are not putting pressure on the wheel the fluid flows freely in the circuit. In this case there could be negative pressure on the seal and bearing. This would be due to the ventury effect. It is possible that Honda rely on the bearing itself for a negative pressure....
Boy is it nice to see someone ( REPAIR NOT REPLACE ) a part. It seams like all anyone wants to do anymore is just replace something GOOD WORK.
I came across this issue on a TL and it was kicking my ass! It turned out to be that the reservoir sits low, so I took it off its mount and held as far up as I could while still being attached to the lines and BAM!!!! This car had kicked my ass! it threw up the fluid a bunch of times and everything!
I really appreciate showing the reality of mechanics. Not everything works out, just like backyard mechanics
Yay, Eric is back to fixing Hondas...about time!
Once you expose the impeller with the vanes, you can keep them all together simply by putting a rubber band or two around it before you take it out.
Thanks for your honesty, not everyone would do that, but when I have looked at your videos and also someone that does many car repairs, Thanks John
Another brilliant video, Eric. We miss you, bud!
Love the fact that you still managed to post this video. A lot of people dont share failures, but this is the art and part of the job. Still save money on the labour that youre doing it yourself.
Thanks, love the videos!
You and Chrisfix are definitely my favourite channels! You deserve more subs!
My theory is some or all of the vanes might be worn out (that is the rounded part not sitting perfectly against the surrounding surface as it rotates). It seems that centrifugal force makes those vanes come in contact against the wall and so I wouldn't personally put grease in there as I'd want them to be moving freely as it rotates. So my two cents. I am by no means an expert and in fact it is the first time I look at the inside of a PS pump. This being said, I really love Eric's videos as they represent REAL life scenarios. Eric once again your videos are THE best.
Good job, even if it didn’t work, your honesty and commitment is something to learn from, at least to try and repair before throwing replacement parts at it. To me it sounds like it behaved in that manner because the order of the pump vanes got upset when they fell out, so they did not fit back in their original “worn” in locations causing the noise. Reason I say this because the noise was very familiar to a worn out vane pump I replaced years ago. If you were to do another pump ,try to keep the vanes in their original locations.
It's so frustrating when you do everything right and the object of your effort still fails.
usmale47374 Yea, it is.
Story of my life
But then it's also that much more rewarding if/when the darn thing finally gives up resisting and allows itself to be fixed. That's something that can put a grin on my face even at 3am.
its because everything was not done right. do not use assembly grease in a power steering pump that runs off un restricted oil pressure. that thick grease clogged the pump mechanism. i love etcg but some of his videos are ham fist central.
I replaced my alternator last week with a bad new alternator. LOL
Hi erick have the solution to that problem ... I had the same problem remove the pump 5 times and then I saw your video and it was my consolation to know that everything was doing well and thought... if what we are sure of is that it is by air ..... so i seal whit black hi temp silicon, the back of the pump and the 2 o ring and the pump is 0 noise and fully functional
Honda power steering fluid is "decene" a highly refined synthetic fluid resembling jet turbine oil and whale oil(ester oil). Use it in any power steering system and you will have the quietest longest lasting system possible. Same goes for their transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake grease, rubber grease...Most of Honda's reliability is in their fluids engineering. An unknown secret. Many of Honda's fluid engineers are chemist who graduated from Idemitsu, they are the best in their field. Honda fluids are not just relabeled fluids. Your getting a bad deal by not using them. I run their fluids in my BMW, in my mothers Toyota...
wow good to know. I also hear hondas coolant is also top notch any info on why?
Honda Coolant is a silicate free coolant with properties which protect the water pump seal.
Honda only likes Honda fluids. A great idea to try them on my Toyota and Nissan. Thanks for the background info.
PS fluid maybe, but needing Honda coolant is nonsense. I have a 94 Integra GSR with 365,000 miles on it, and I've only ever used Prestone green coolant 50/50 with distilled water. First radiator lasted 10 years. Second CSF radiator lasted another 10 years. Currently on its 3rd radiator in almost 25 years, and the water pump gets changed out every 90K along with the timing belt. There's absolutely no reason to need to use Honda-branded coolant.
@@Patrick94GSR your radiator should last more than 10 years... What was wrong when you replaced them? Just replaced my 98 prelude radiator only because the drain cock was broken of by the last guy. original was @200k miles and 22 years old. Aside from the plastic being broken, it cooled just fine. Only ever ran honda coolant.
Excellent video. Never edit out your mistakes so people can learn from them
Typically I've found that if you lift the vehicle to where the tires are off the ground, the power steering system is a breeze to bleed. Every time I have just tried to bleed the system with the tires on the ground I have always run in to similar problems. Great video.
I'm puzzle why it would be noisy after you've taken it apart. At first I thought it was the hose clamp not sealing when I saw how dirty the area was at the start but obviously it isn't. But I suspect it being the other o-rings being ever so slightly smaller compared to oem or something. Would love to know why it made that noise after servicing.
I had a nissan frontier that was sucking in air thru the o'ring on the suction side of the pump. Nissan put out a tsb as well. I went to harbor freight and bought an o'ring kit of different sizes,thicknesses. Piss on the nissan brand o'rings. Problem fixed. I also replaced every stinkin factory hose clamp on the low pressure power steering hoses as they leaked as well. Viton o'rings is the type I used.
Grato sr EricTheCarGuy por compartilhar seus conhecimentos e experiências, suas dicas e ensinamentos muito me ajudam, acompanho seus vídeos aprendo muito com eles. Imagino o quanto é difícil e trabalhoso filmar, gravar e ainda ter a preocupação de passar os ensinamentos o mais claro, simples e limpo possível, no intuito de ajudar a outras pessoas. Assistindo no Brasil em 13/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
Ulul
Hey E, 2 things.
First on those vanes, I think the curved side maybe goes to the inside and the flat side is what sweeps against the outer housing to seal( have only personally rebuilt 1 pump but that is how I did it and it works fine).
Second thing is that I was always taught to have the front tires off the ground with no weight on them when you do your first lock-2-lock( at least on most ford's you have to otherwise you get that whine sound).
I'm a little curious as to why this pump was making noise. I think it might be a vane problem, did you try reversing the vanes and trying the flat end to the outside? I work on a lot of pumps with vanes (mostly air) and the flats typically go to the outside - more surface area contacting the outer to help prevent blow by. And, if this were the case, there should be a slight bevel on the flats of the vanes.
Hey Eric, it's great to see how honest you are showing that every job does not go perfect. Thanks for the great videos.
Nice video, I just did my power steering pump yesterday, I perched a new one from Amazon for around $60, it’s working perfectly, I did replace the Reservoir and completely drained the system and put new power steering fluid.
I am re-living your situation with a 97 Mazda Protégé DX. Third removal from the engine tomorrow. It was leaking like crazy, so I figured "gasket kit" solution. Well it doesn't leak anymore... but it also doesn't help with steering either. Thanks to your video I have two things to check before I raise the white flag. I think salvage yard solution is probably the way to go. Thanks for the additional info.
thanx . for youre guidance. took mine half apart replaced housing o ring but all my veins fell out and i said screw it i removed mot=re found a broken ribg put veins ba k like youbsaid . i even washed my pump with awesome and rinsed in sink and bath. let dry in sun 1 hour let dry over night with fan . thenntook it apart as mwntionwed above remebering youre tips , my pump sounds great now im ready to do the whole rebuils .im trying to stop leaking pump. off to wqork. thanx again. when the veins fell all ovewrvthe floor. i handled my buisness flat onw way round the other way. i felt like a rocket engineer, lol
I actually got the confidence to rebuild my leaking power steering pump on my 01 Integra because of you.
Got it put on and it didn’t wine or leak at all as if I never took it off works great thanks for the video Etcg!
the blades ERIC.. the blades that came off! they seem symmetrical but they aren't they should be fitted back exactly the way they were on the rotor..
I think that may well be the problem! At least we know it was not any one seal in particular.
Originally the noise that triggered the repair was from the worn out pump surfaces...
Oddly the honda factory service manual only mentions that the rounded edge of the vane needs to face out. Otherwise from honda's prospective the vane's are interchangeable.
All the vanes will rotate through the space and cavity as the rotor rotate, vanes should not be different from each other.
I feel your pain Eric. Good video though I like the fact that you even show your failures it's good to see it don't just happen to us.
Was researching to decide whether to rebuild or replace and this video was super informative to make that decision. Replace it is!
Thx Eric. You are amazing. Attention to detail and vigor. You have a God-given talent. You obviously do it well in his name. I'm planning to just get a new pump for my Honda CRV 2007 since i am crunched for time. Maybe if i had some time or did others in the past, i would be tempted to rebuild. I am just not there yet. Be blessed. Dr Rob
Glad I am not the only one going through this scenario. I'm on my second re-man and now looking to do a rebuild. The original OE pump did not make noise but was leaking. We'll see how it goes.
Realistic to see a fix that overcomes adversity. Looks just like some of my projects.
Randy
Appreciate that you don't edit out the stuff that doesn't go so well. Thanks. Great video.
Eric. Maybe too late for this message, but I have a 2001 TL and I'm changing the pump. They came out with a "special" orange O-Ring for the top. Easy to get to and change. I'm going to just replace mine with the new "orange" one and see if it fixes my noise. Only when it's cold. Runs quiet Spring, Summer and Fall.
Appreciate the video and the fact that you can speak the English Language without the bleep words. Good Job.