FIXED - Why A 2 Cycle Leaf Blower Engine Idles But Won't REV-UP! MUST WATCH!
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2019
- Why A 2 Cycle Leaf Blower Engine Idles But Won't REV-UP! MUST WATCH!
In this STEP BY STEP video I show you how to easily repair a 2 cycle Sthl leaf blower that won't idle properly and rev-up.
Crank seal is part number 9639 003 1230
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Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
I’ve been a small engine mechanic for many decades and also run my own repair shop so my videos are loaded with tips and tricks that I have learned and want to share with you. You will also find many tool and product reviews from top brands on my channel as well.
I have the largest Small Engine Repair Video Library on CZcams and the entire internet with over 1200 videos, just GOOGLE "DONYBOY73"!
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Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, hand tools, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor". - Jak na to + styl
New sign outside of Don's shop. "I don't repair space shuttles" LOL!
🤣🤣🤣😔😔
He probably would and could...
Ha!
Something to be said about a small engine mechanic teaching the world how to fix their small engines. You are the MAN
What would we all do without you Dony ? !
Not much, that's for sure ! Thanks so much for this video - most helpful.
You hit the nail right on top of the head ! You put more time in fixing that unit than it's worth. I've done it many times just to fix it and cut the customer a good deal . I know why you did it to show everyone how to. 75 % of the blowers I work on aren't worth fixing . And they are ahead to just buy new. Great video!! 👍
This was the definitive answer I was searching for days trying to figure out why my 2-stroke engine refused to stay in a revved position and why every other day, the idling would change drastically. Thank you very much!
Great video. I would have never figured that out myself. I agree it would cost more to fix at a shop than its worth. That is why I love your videos. My push mower was built in 1964 and the old Briggs still starts on the first pull.
I learned something today! Eric.
More great tips from the best small engine doc on the youtube. Thx Don.
wow Don, looking with an eyes , nice detective work to prevent throwing parts at the problem . Vacuum leaks can be a headache. thanks for the lesson :)
This is EXACTLY what mine is doing. So glad I found this video. Well done and easy to understand. Thank you,
Great fix ! I had to do the same repairs to a STIHL br420
Magnum. Notorious for oil leaks! Have a great weekend
Don!
take care jeremy
That would make a lot of neighbors happy
Excellent instructional video, Danny! Keep up the good work!
Nice, keep cranking out the videos. Your a gold mine of small engine knowledge.
Great explanation. Never stop learning. Thank you
Your a true professional. Wish I found your channel sooner.
Hi Don, had the same problem with my air blower, BG56 but mine had no gasket liking, had left it aside for 6 months, and when I needed to use I only turned the 2 screws and it's been running perfectly, thanks for all your useful information from Samos Greece, at the end of the world, formally the taverna at the end of the world, p.s will keep looking at your videos, Andreas.
This is an excellent video. I've got the dreaded oil leak and thought it was my carburetor being faulty. Now I know what to do and get my blower working properly. Thanks.
Thanks Don I have a BG85 that I put a new carb on with no positive result I will check that seal for a leak great info.
Thanks Dony have been following you for alot of years excellent videos always enjoy your knowledge and the way you explain everything thanks your friend Rocco from CT 😉🤙💵💲💵
Sounds good 2 me. I got hung up on a chainsaw one time with leaking seals. Got it running but went in several wrong directions first! Great vid!
You are very good ,,and I watched a lot of repair guys ,,got to give you 10 stars ,,very good .
Great video! I've got a somewhat similar problem on an old homelite blower, but I'm pretty sure it's because I replaced the nasty fuel lines but the old ones were a weird size, so it's not sealing well against the tank.
I had the exact same list of symptoms on my Ryobi BC30 brush cutter/string trimmer. It blew out the cyl to crankcase gasket. The cyl mounted with only 3 screws vs 4. The new gasket had embedded line of sealant all around it. Now works great again.
An excellent, clearly presented video, thank you
Thanks got the same problem on my stihl FS90R Ive noticed an oil leak on the crank case. wasnt sure whether it was fuel or ignition but after watching your video i am pretty sure its the same problem with the seal. Thanks for posting.
Thanks, Don!! Mine is doing the exact same thing - bogging down. When hot, it will rev up to full speed and then drop back to about 75% after a few seconds. I'll look for that oil leak.
Thank you Don. What you have just shown is vital info for home handymen who can't afford to throw something out and get a new one. would like to know if you have done a vid on how to do a leakdown test on a 2 stroke motor. Thanks mate. Oh yeah, that blower from Stihl here in Australia would cost around $ 250 to $ 300 Australian ! Alex, expatriot Canuck
Very useful information. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Don. So many folks don't understand this. Crank-seals.
Very informative as usual.
Love your videos.
Another great video, with useful information. I noticed a slight delay in the sound when I played it. Not beefing, just thought you would wish to know that.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Man that made all the difference. Only ran across that once on a 2 cycle LawnBoy mower.
Thanks , fixed my exact problem with my Stihl blower. Same one.. 🤙🏼 keep up the great work bud 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Great to hear!
Hell yeah 👍 I love those little handheld Stihl blowers especially the older ones without the EZ start recoils I've had my BG 55 for over 20 years
Good one Don, 2 strokes can be a nightmare. I stopped working on them myself, no money for me after the repair.
Donyboy is correct to add rtv to seal he installed, my bg65 had red sealant all the way around both seals mating surface to block
Great as always, I was looking for a big pick like you used.
I found it, it's called a Cotter pin puller and it also works really well for pulling out Cotter pins! I love it.
Keep it up.
Lol
yep those cotter pin tools are handy and come in at least two sizes maybe more.
Excellent video Donnie that has happened so many times at work you put a carburetor kit and it doesn't fix it then you're searching for another problem like you said they're not worth putting too much money in this kind of thing drives my boss crazy we waste time and effort starting with the kit then we have to go to something else now you've exceeded the price of the blower these things can drive you crazy great video
absolutely
Great video my Stihl blower has the exact same symptoms.
Great video Don! Have a great weekend.
Had similar behavior with a leaf blower. Tank vent on cap was clogged. Engine/carb pulled a vacuum on tank and wouldn't let enough fuel flow to run beyond idle.
Mine had a dirty mesh filter. The only thing I didn't replace the first time. It's not running perfectly, but it's running.
Great content as always. Many thanks.
Excellent - Very clear & helpful.
Thank God that leaf blower is fixed. After the homeowner gets all the snow out of the way, they can get back to blowing leaves.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 🇦🇺
"I didn't do a leak-down test" --- while I'll be googling that, I'd LOVE to see a vid where you go-over all the ways one can use a vacuum-gauge, pressure-gauge, tachometer, sprayed-fluid(checking for leaking-pressure a seals), not in-specific as if a problem was needing to be solved but in a context of yearly (or every 6mo) restorative/overhaul work! This "leak-down test" sounds like something of MAJOR value to me as I'm always messing w/ machines that were given-up-on, if I see a blower/saw/hedgers at someone's curb I almost always grab them, am loving getting-into this and pressure/vacuum is still a major blind-spot for me, haven't even bought a vac/pressurre gauge (just a tach&spline-drivers) because I don't know what I'd use it for, I mean I check compression by pulling the cord (and can't see any value in knowing the specific measurement value of the pressure in that case) but imagine this 'leak-down' test would un-earth SO many problems on so much of my equipment!!!
Great job again like always
Thanks donyboy you’re the best.!!!
Really good video.I have chainsaw that leaks and has same symptoms.Time to explore the seal me thinks
good video. good tips, good diagnosis
Great Video, Thank You.
Thanks for sharing I didn't know that
Thanks Don
Great tip with that one. Thank you for that posting. 👍🏼🇨🇦
Very goods video. Helpful.Thankyou
THANK-YOU VERY MUCH SIR, STAY AWESOME AND SAFE !!
Great video, thx for sharing.
Like he said..not always the crankshaft seal..my bg65 now apart. Front of engine, closest to muffler is soaked, seal dry. Suspect now, that lower housing gasket blown..not really a sump, but the lower half of engine. 4 bolts below the crankshaft seal. Theres a red gasket or sealant.
Nice demo thank you.
You are the man. Thank you. Thank you.
Great info- thanks for posting!!
Great job
Great job, Dony....
Nicely repaired Don :-D
Using a screw to help get a seal out was something i saw a long time ago, not sure who thought up the idea first but it's so simple :-D.
Crank seals seem pretty reliable to me, i've only had one leak air into a small twostroke motorcycle engine, and it was an internal seal.
While i was in there i replaced them all and the bearings, i never needed to crack that engine apart again.
I have a kohler K301 which the front crank seal started leaking oil, it only took at around 8 or 10 years to have an issue. I am in the process of fixing that with everything else that was collectively wrong but too small to bother with on its own at.
What are the carburetor screw settings for an Echo pb-500t blower
Great video, Thanks.
You deserve so many more subscribers....good work!
Another great video as usual thanks for the advice hey man it's summertime down in West Virginia I'll see you guys still got snow good luck buddy
was filmed a while ago, snow is gone
Hi, what "aviation gasket seal" did you use? Thanks for another excellent video.
Amazing video!
great video as always
How's she goin'? Nice repair. The extraction on the seal was tricky!!! Well done!!!
I went through something similar with a bg86 stihl blower, when I was inspecting the seals they seemed to have been pushed out a bit rather than sitting all the way in as they are suppose to, after opening the belly pan it turned out to be a bad crankshaft bearing on one side. The metal piece that retains the balls inside the bearing grove was broken, replaced the bearing with a new one and the machine runs fine. I ended up using copper gasket maker around the belly pan and the seals.
Super nice fix - DB73 quality video
great video thank you
Wow I'd no idea that "gasket-maker" goops were viable especially for 2-strokes, am guessing it's OK for chainsaws as well? Was going to "take a leap of faith" and try, for 1st time ever, the 2-part 'high heat' epoxies (for better-securing a poorly-secured ignition module) SO glad to hear this am getting the gasket-maker for sure and am going to try that high-heat epoxy as well (it's by same company, never knew if it was reliable or not!)
Love that you went over the whole "is it worth fixing?" concept, as I learn&tinker/fix more stuff I've begun hitting a wall in regards to what's smarter: cheaper-but-new, or super-replaceable/serviceable Stihl gear (or echo or husq if they're as-workable as Stihl, you and Steve'sSaloon focus on Stihl so much but my *limited* experience is that echo/husq/stihl are all basically comparable quality builds) For instance about 8mo ago I spent $145(shipped!) for a 25cc "Scheppach csp2540" top-handle, at the time I was also looking at used 192's/193's but liked the idea of new.... At any rate, while I've every intention of becoming as good a 2-stroke mechanic as I can be, the more I see of how much goes wrong (w/ all brands) and how tedious, sometimes even impossible, fixes can be (and how costly some are), it's got me starting to think you'd be better off spending the 100-150 for the generic 25cc top-handles and simply replace when the time comes (mine's still a beast though, very impressed w/ it am going to make a video-review soon actually I made one already but it was atrocious so doing it over :P )
I guess if you neeeed the specs of a 200/201t stihl climbing saw then that's what you get but between my 33cc tanaka and my 25cc scheppach I couldn't imagine getting a more-expensive machine, if/when these units die on me I fully intend to just replace them (which also gives bonus of having a parts-saw on hand for the new one!), I've gotta say I was VERY surprised to see you showing (in another vid) the Stihl 2-stroke oil you used.......it seems that bad fuel (stale, ethanol, improper oil%, etc etc) is one of the biggest culprits out there for 2-stroke-problems (or THE biggest), would LOVE to hear your thoughts on this, am intending to go get the pre-mix from walmart (although it says it's for 40:1 *and* 50:1 which, obviously, makes little sense lol) but now wondering if I should just splurge on the Stihl pre-mix....Currently using 90oct, eth-free fuel, always super super fresh and kept outta the sun, w/ around 45:1 mix using synthetic Poulan Pro oil, and add HEET('iso heet' to be precise) because it seems to help all engines here in humid-as-hell florida!!!
Was the leaking seal allowing air to come in through the seal, effectively causing an intake vacuum leak?
Hi, Is that Loctite 5923? Thanks for another excellent video.
Good video!
Wish I would have known this a few years ago. My blower had the same symptoms and the local shop couldn’t figure it out, so I gave it away and bought a new one.
Amazing how you nailed that.😳👏🏻
Good one Dony !
Very informative video
So Donyboy, I don't have a Stihl, but this Echo is doing the same thing. I replaced the coil since it didn't have any spark. The machine idled fine but then took quite a bit to throttle up. I did just as you had done and just replaced the carb thinking that the jets were dirty and this carb was non adjustable. So even replacing it with yet another one it still does the same. I had pulled the flywheel just to make sure the keyway wasn't sheared, which it wasn't. I can't recall seeing any oil though at the crank seal...I'm stumped
If the seal is leaking how good is the crankbearings? Great job donyboy.
Very good content 👍💯
Thanks
Useful video as always Don. When you first said you had rebuilt the carb I thought the problem might be ignition with the coil cutting out when it was warm. But the oil under the flywheel gave the game away and it was the crank seal. If it was the coil would it have been economical to repair it? I guess a new coil is quite expensive on a Stihl.
probably would not have been worth putting in a coil
Thank you!!!
I would never have suspected that. Not too difficult to fix either.
Thank you!
Thank you very much!!!!!
Thank you.
Thanks dony
06:52 Dry seal against dry crank spindle = burnt seal = vacuum leak... ASSEMBLY LUBE
This dude is a beast
Nice
Nice!
Thanks
i rebuilt a stihl concrete saw about 5 years ago. seals failed as a result from the crankcase bearings were missing balls. head+piston+carb as well. signs of straight gas. good times.