How to remove and disassemble struts - suspension episode 6
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- čas přidán 29. 10. 2017
- Here's episode 6 of my Toyota mr2 suspension overhaul series. In this episode I show you how to remove struts from your car. We also disassemble the struts, which means remove the coil springs and shock absorbers that are inside. In the video you can see the safe way to remove your coil springs by using spring compressors.
We also have some good news since inside my struts I find Koni yellow adjustable sport shock absorbers.
My blog: www.driving4answers.com/
Intro song:
Escape - Kiss
• Escape - Kiss
➤ Escape
/ escapethis
/ escapethis__
/ escapethisff
escapethis.bandcamp.com/
#d4a #struts #diy #howto #remove #suspension #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you for finally explaining how the shock absorber is mounted inside the assembly, I haven't been able to find that answer anywhere! 🙏🙏
As someone who has to replace 4 of these in a recently bought aw11. I cannot thank you enough for the very detailed but simple tutorial
You don’t have to cut the sway bar links off! You need to put an Allan key in the middle of the bolt to hold it still while you turn the nut off👌
Yeah, why am i watching a how to video from a guy who doesn't know how to take sway bar links off?
He knows more than I do
Enjoyed watching, all shocks are not the same, mine is definitely different, but this has given me the bases of how to part it👍👍
Don't forget to add a bit of ATF inside the cylinder were the strut/shock cartridge sits in.
My '82 Tercel has similar front strut cartridge suspension and the Factory Service Manual recommends to add a couple of ounces of ATF inside the assembly.
Just a few days before your last video abot removing suspension bushings I removed the suspension bushings from my cars control arms. Today I disassambled the front struts.
Et voilà, D4A-video about strut disassembling pops up.
+CodewortSchinken Cool! We are in sync :)
Thank you so much, I couldn't figure out how to get my shock out of the knuckle.
Great Video.
That car is lucky to have you :)
Thank you for saying that. Old Japanese cars sometimes really don't get the attention they deserve and end up in scrapyards far sooner than they need to, especially in Europe, where they are expensive to restore because you have to import a lot of things, and where they are overshadowed by German and Italian cars. I like to think that I am giving this one the love and attention it deserves. It is a nice feeling knowing that you saved something from being scraped with a lot of potential still left in it.
great vid.
Thank you Iv got a college assessment about suspensions tomorrow so god bless you😂
He starts at 6:23
Thank you for a great film. I'm removing my 1st strut (rear), so it was very useful for me.
@3:20 Do you need to support the Steering Knuckle? Did you support it? Or where and how it was resting?
@7:37 You can loosen the nut on the car, not remove completely of course, but just brake it loose. On my struts (rear) you are suppose to keep the central rod w/T-45 socket and to remove the nut w/open wrench #21. It would be very hard if not to lose it while it is still on the car.
@8:55 We have the Coil Spring separately, but it is still compressed. For some reason no one in any film on this question shows how to release it. Probably it is very simple, but ... Looks like the most difficult part of the project for me.
Thank you again.
at 3:20, isn't there a pressure pliers engage so you can lock the ball joint of the stab. linker and freely spin the nut out? here in brazil you have to, or a regular wrench or pressure pliers to do this job, instead of cutting of the screws
Cant go wrong now Thanx
I love your videos. I want an MR2 so bad, but I also want an S12 notch-back lol
evoTimer Thank you! I want like 20 more 80s and 90s japanese sports cars so bad :). I like your style, I love the s12.
eventually, youll have both with 2JZ or LS swaps
If the new strut is rubbing a little on the gland nut is that bad? Seems to lean to the side just a littl
If it were me, I would never have just welded that sway bar link in the middle! It should have been sleeved. Find a piece of tubing that slides over the sway bar rod, use about 2 inches. Slide it over the rod, then weld the rod. Grind down the weld until the tube will slip over it, then weld the tube in place with an inch on both sides of the weld. Much, MUCH stronger that way!
Nice video & dos v'danya
Nice find on those Konis! Personally, I'd still think about having them rebuilt, since you never know how they were treated by the previous owner or how long they have been used.
Will you be going coilovers, or nabbing some eibach springs and getting it done?
6PrinceofDarkness6 Will probably be getting some Eibach springs, and then after driving that setup for a while I will go with coilovers. I think it will be fun to compare the two. I was thinking about rebuilding them, but I think it will be hard to find someone who does that in this part of the world.
Please where can I buy a key for shocks thanks
King of Rust? That does not go undisputed my friend
You don't have to cut sway bar endings (or whatever it is called, sorry I hope you get my point). There is a tool for that, but when they're spinning so easily they probably need to be changed anyway :P
Use a pickle fork =)
Hmm. I think pickle forks are for separating ball joints and tie rod ends. This is a very stupid situation where it was impossible to remove the nut. I could have used something to hold the bolt in place somehow while removing the seized nut, but it would be far too much trouble for sway bar end links that have been welded in the middle and have failed in their jointed part.
They have multiple uses. I've used them in the past to prevent any sort of ball joint from spinning while I try to take the nut off. Vice grips can also help, if the thread is long enough.
Jeff Reeves I guess you could use them in this case too, if you wedged it and had one that fits tightly on the bolt. But I would instinctively go for the vice grip :) Haven't really used pickle forks much. How's your aw11?
Oh, it doesn't need to touch the bolt, you just need positive pressure against the ball joint to immobilize it.
As an experiment, lightly grip your right wrist with your left hand, then try twisting your right wrist (simulating the bolt on the ball joint). Now slide/pull your right arm away like you are trying to slide out of handcuffs. You'll notice that it is now harder to twist your right wrist. The same thing happens with the ball joint.
Also, if you use vice grips be careful not to damage threads you want to reuse. I put a bit of leather or duct tape in between the vice grips and the bolt to prevent damage.
What that wrench you got please
Pipe wrench what size is it?
Did he say dust boot or Das Boot?
Va hetter företaget som gjorde de gamla fjädrarna ?
The middle part spins as I try to take the nut off, I'm doing it by hand, so would a impact gun help?
Definitely need an impact for that
@@d4a thanks, thought I could manage without one. Getting one and gonna try again haha
@@d4aman im struggling with this for days, the middle parts spin even i hold it with grip plyers, even an impact gun didnt work, any idea? This driving me nuts
How do you know when your struts need to change
Lots of bouncing when going over bumps
That's good guide for me i planning to do mine 😅, i have one project car suzuki baleno g16b.i can't find rebuilding structs locally . That's uploading on WOOTLOGGER CHANNEL .
Are you going coilovers
ariyapol prasertsilps Not right away. Probably getting some Eibach springs first, then coilovers later. I want to experience both setups and be able to compare.
nah seriously, i just can remove my strut lock nut, it make all the cylinder turn to itself.
DO NOT USE A IMPACT GUN ON SPRING COMPRESSORS. They can cause compressors to spin on spring to one side
+fila1445 These ones had "suitable for impact gun" writen on the box they came in. I guess if that wasn't written, impact gun should be avoided.