@@whatitisnt. Surface Shield doesn’t come in black so you need to add graphite powder to color it. Or - you can just get Fluid Film or Woolwax as they offer a black product. Through all my research I found that Surface Shield was a better product then the others so I opted to tint it black myself. A CZcamsr called Repair Geek who actually works for Blaster now made a video on how to do it. He indicated that the other two are just using graphite powder as well. I prefer a black product for a few reasons. 1. You can see where you’ve already sprayed. 2. It makes the undercarriage look brand now when you’re finished. 3. It’s easier to see any rust that may poke through making touch up in the future easier.
@@jasoncharles6980 quick question, the car I wanted to rust proof has been driven in the immense snow/salt for 3 winters. I don't see any active rust, but a friend has said the under carriage is starting to get a bit red but not absolute rust/cracked damage. My question is, is rust proofing still worth it? How long does it take to rust in exact? And regarding the graphite powder, would it look the same color as the OEM car color (black) or be distinguishable/unblendable, thanks for your time
@@whatitisnt. I'm thinking that rust proofing is absolutely still worth it on a vehicle that has started to rust. It will slow down further progression of the rust. It blocks the water and salt from contacting the steel directly and hence protects it.
I didn’t, I took out the fender liners the first time I applied it, I usually go in the door drains and any openings on the underside I spray really good. I have a few videos on my channel about applying it.
Kurt: Time for some new snow tires... those are well worn!
You are spot on! They actually have some decent tread left but they are getting old
Great content!
Thank you!
Enjoy your undercoating stuff. I ended up going with Surface Shield tinted black with graphite powder. I’m up in Maine in the salt belt as well.
Let me know how it holds up!
What's the difference between surface shield and the graphite powder?
@@whatitisnt. Surface Shield doesn’t come in black so you need to add graphite powder to color it. Or - you can just get Fluid Film or Woolwax as they offer a black product. Through all my research I found that Surface Shield was a better product then the others so I opted to tint it black myself. A CZcamsr called Repair Geek who actually works for Blaster now made a video on how to do it. He indicated that the other two are just using graphite powder as well. I prefer a black product for a few reasons. 1. You can see where you’ve already sprayed. 2. It makes the undercarriage look brand now when you’re finished. 3. It’s easier to see any rust that may poke through making touch up in the future easier.
@@jasoncharles6980 quick question, the car I wanted to rust proof has been driven in the immense snow/salt for 3 winters. I don't see any active rust, but a friend has said the under carriage is starting to get a bit red but not absolute rust/cracked damage. My question is, is rust proofing still worth it? How long does it take to rust in exact? And regarding the graphite powder, would it look the same color as the OEM car color (black) or be distinguishable/unblendable, thanks for your time
@@whatitisnt. I'm thinking that rust proofing is absolutely still worth it on a vehicle that has started to rust. It will slow down further progression of the rust. It blocks the water and salt from contacting the steel directly and hence protects it.
Do I need to punch access holes in my doors and frame to apply fluid film internally?
I didn’t, I took out the fender liners the first time I applied it, I usually go in the door drains and any openings on the underside I spray really good. I have a few videos on my channel about applying it.
@@KurtofTrades do you think the Krown spray is worth doing then? I think it's 150 dollars and they deal with the mess.
Yes it probably is worth it I’ve heard good things and I think it’s a pretty similar product