You've Been SHIFTING Wrong & It's Making You SLOW...
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- čas přidán 11. 01. 2023
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Good shifting is just as important to being fast as pressing the throttle in sim racing. But its often overlooked.
This is what a bad downshift, a decent downshift and a great downshift look like. Can you spot the difference?
When I was a rookie,, i was taught that i needed to downshift and use engine braking when i wanted to corner. Now this may be true for driving on the streets, but on the track, this was actually making me slow.
The engine is meant to increase your speed, not decrease it. That’s what brakes are for. Good drivers downshift during the approach to a corner, simply for optimum acceleration out of the corner. All that engine braking achieves is upsetting the balance of the car.
Not only was I using engine braking to slow the car, but my upshifting was all wrong. I was shifting whenever my car got to redline, thinking, yeah the car is loud so i must be going fast right? WRONG… for most cars. To get the perfect upshift, and go as fast as possible, you need to to time it perfectly. Otherwise, you’re not going to be using your car to it’s full potential.
So can you perfect the art of shifting? Let’s start with upshifting.
When shifting up for maximum acceleration, you need to know the engines characteristics. In this 86, the torque peaks just above 5000rpm, whilst power peaks at around 6500rpm. And whenever we shift up there’s a split of 1800 rpm between gears.
Therefore, if we shift up at 6500, the revs will drop back down to 4800, and we will be accelerating through peak torque, to peak power. This range between both peaks is where the engine will operate most effectively, resulting in maximum acceleration.
However, you shouldn’t be aiming to stay in this range all the time. Sometimes, it can be faster to short shift. For instance, if there’s a corner that’s taken in second gear leading onto a straight. You can shift into third before the corner, so you don’t waste time time on the straight.
But, It can also be faster to leave the car in gear. If you’re approaching the end of a straight, and you’re almost out of that optimum range from earlier, it’s usually faster to leave the car in gear and rev it out than changing gears.
Downshifting is a little more in depth, but even more critical to going fast. Remeber the TSRB SPEED SECRET from earlier. One of the most common errors i see drivers make is trying to downshift whilst turning into a corner. As the driver lets out the clutch, the driving wheels lock up momentarily, and the car starts to spin. However, even in a straight line a bad downshift can lock your driving wheels, unsettle the balance of the car and slow you down.
So how do you do a good, smooth downshift?
The smoothest of smooth downshifts occur when the engine revs are increased by briefly stabbing the gas with your right foot. This is called blipping the throttle, or rev matching. This matches the engine and wheel speed.
However, The tricky part is doing this whilst braking, unless you have a third leg. Ooh cheeky.
This requires a technique caled “heel-and-toe” downshifting.
To do this, you need to begin braking with the ball of your right foot on the brake pedal, whilst keeping a small portion on the gas pedal.
Whilst braking, depress the clutch with your left foot and downshift.
Still braking and with the clutch still depressed, roll your right foot at the ankle, quickly pusshing or blipping the throttle.
Then, quickly, but smoothly ease out the clutch, bleed off off the brake, and enter the corner.
There isn’t a successful race driver in the world who doesnt heel and toe on every downshift. Matching the engine and wheel speed is critical to a smooth downshift. And that, is how shifting properly can make you faster.
If you learned something new today, you might like this video, in which I teach you how to drive slow cars fast.
Hit the like, and maybe even subscribe button if you enjoyed the video!
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I'd like to disagree with 2 points. 1: You should see engine braking as an aditional brake. Depending on the vehicle you might want to shift down as fast as possible to brake harder if the normal brakes don't have enough stopping power to lock up. Also there might be cases where braking with the normal brakes is too much but you still need to shift the weight a little bit to the front, 2. For the most acceleration you want to have the best average power. For the highest average power you want to shift when the power is the same after you upshift. If the power curve is for example 1-(x-1)^2 and upshifting will lose 2a rpm (0
Shifting down as fast as possible: only with sequentials, obviously without hitting the rev limiter, never with an H shifter or you're going to lock the tires and spin, unless if you have the heel&toe/rev matching technique properly down.
@@Haltzo thats basically shift lock drifting
@@Haltzo and that's if the engine doesn't die
@@johjoh9270 and the clutch holds lol. I use shift lock around hairpins on touges sometimes in the sim. Makes it fun
I'll give you a thumbs up just for the amount of shit you typed. I make long comments all the time and typically delete them before posting because I quickly lose interest in anyone caring.
It’s crazy watching your driving and editing improve with each video. Getting to become a better driver with you actively is such a cool experience as you seem to hit all the notes I’m struggling on as I’m wanting to tackle them.
My driving is getting worse lmao, but i appreciate it
seriously bro this guy deserves to have an actual online school he’s something else
@@TSRB pahahaha
@@TSRB these videos are awesome! But I must ask, is there going to be any content for those who use paddle shifters instead? I miss having the 3 pedals but I must make due with an automatic transmission that has a manual mode
The optimal shift depends on the tuning of the car. Some cars are best shifted at redline, especially with long gear ratios.
But that happens when the power band invades the red zone.
The point of his argument is to check where the power band is instead of always going for the red line or into the red zone just because it's easier to get used to
How come you think that it shows you have never driven a real car. That’s 💩
some cars have high torque and you may be ok with shifting below the redline depending on where you are on the track however I don’t see the point for the engine manufacturer to set up a redline higher than the limit for maximum acceleration. You would rev it up for no benefit.
Because of initial d, I always heel toe downshift coming up to a corner on instinct because it feels cool.
the engine roar is all worth it
You got the maximum acceleration part a little wrong. Here’s what you wanna do guys:
At 2:39 you see the dyno table of the ae86 right? You don’t wanna be between the power and torque peak. You wanna shift this window to where ON AVERAGE the red graph is the highest, in the ae86 stocks case around 5200-7200. Power drops off past 6500, but stays at a higher level than anything below 5200 and thus you’re a little quicker.
I assure you, given same launch and shift times you’d beat TSRB doing this.
People seem to have a really big issue trying to understand what Torque an Horsepower are
@@marcos1669 the best way I can explain it is “horsepower is what your gearing does to torque”
If you got 200nm at 3000rpm and 100nm at 6000rpm, that’s 85hp for both these engine speeds.
If you have a gearbox that drops you from 6000 to 3000, you will have identical wheel torque between these gears and thus, the same acceleration.
That’s why you wanna average around the highest power, not shift AT peak power
@@raptorjeezus2607 Yeah, that's right. Really what you want is the area under the power curve maximized between the two rpm points: Upshift rpm and the rpm it lands at after it's shifted. Torque peak rpm is irrelevant like you said. Generally with a racing engine that means shifting at or very close to red line the way people generally tend to do anyway.
@@marcos1669 yeah, I don't understand a single unit that is being discussed or what torque is
@@umrasangus you’re here, googles surely not out of reach yeah?
Peak torque is irrelevant for acceleration. You want the average power between shifts to be maximized - in other words to maximize the area under the (power) curve that you're using. This requires shifting past the point of maximum power, or at redline if power peaks there. In most cars shifting at redline maximizes power, but in some it does fall off rapidly enough that shifting earlier is better. You'd still shift somewhat beyond the point of peak power though; how much depends on the shape of the power curve.
Amen.
Ok, I'm a little confused now. If I understand correctly, peak torque is where maximum acceleration in a specific gear happens. Isn't that what a driver should aim for?
From what I got out of the video, alternating between maximum acceleration and maximum power is the way to go.
EDIT: The more I think about it, shifting at the highest average power seems to be more useful. In which case, should the driver stick to max torque when needing to accelerate in a specific gear and then when they need to go faster, get close to redline and then shift?
EDIT 2: After about a few days of thinking, I realized that the HP/Torque graphs are given with respect to RPM, not time. The torque produced is only a figure good enough if you want to move heavy things because time isn't taken into as much account. Likewise, hp produced is only a figure good enough if you want to go fast because it actually gives you an output with respect to time.
tl;dr: Max Torque tells you how much work can be done without telling you how much time it takes. Max HP tells you have much works gets done in an instant at whichever rpm you're at.
Pretty sure that engineers would disagree with you.
@@epicm999 "If I understand correctly, peak torque is where maximum acceleration in a specific gear happens"
Nope, peak power is where maximum acceleration happens.
Power = torque * rpm, which means you don't actually care about torque when racing. You only care about RPM, and only as a guideline, because it tells you where power is maximized.
@@lucidcortex8444 no engineer worth their salt would contradict anything OP said. As a pilot you don't care about torque, you care about having the maximum average power when shifting. As an engineer you care about torque enough so that it gets you the power you want.
When it comes to when to shift, the torque band doesn't matter at all, the only thing is staying in as high average power as possible.
I ran a test with the Kunos 458 gt2, which has a redline much higher than it needs to be. Peak power is at 6500 rpm and peak torque is at 5500 rpm. The power drops off pretty severely at 7k rpm, but you should still shift around 7350 rpm. I ran a 1km drag test, once shifting at peak power, at 6500 rpm, and to prove a point, still unoptimally shifting at 7500 rpm.
The 6500 rpm run was 20.80, and the 7500 rpm run was 20.65, ideally you should be shifting between 7250 and 7000 rpm as a said, but even going way after the power and torque drop, it's still faster to shift late simply because the average power across the rev range is higher. But I did run it shifting around 7350 and ran a 20.44
In the 86 example, you want to rev it all the way out because the power climb is slow enough that even with a slight drop it's still higher average power to rev it out all the way.
In theory, torque is just as important to shifting as revs, because they are equals, torque is how much work an engine does per revolution, and every revolution multiplies that. Power is the only metric you should base when you shift on, and it's as simple as average power is highest if I shift here, which is almost always redline, so that's where you should shift.
You simply have to find the RPMs where you get the same power before and after upshifting (if you have a power band with roughly a single maximum)
Fuck finally someone who gets it
this..
Torque band absolutely matters. Ask any engineer.
@@wills.5762 He doesn't get it though
Playing drag racing games really teaches you how to upshift properly. It's kind of an earlier shift in lower gears and gets later and later the higher your gear is. It always depends on the engine though so that's why you must know the engine curve
Have you played racingmaybe? Highly recommended
What good drag racing sims are there? Would love to learn what it's actually like to drag race hot rods
I've been watching all of your videos and i can't thank you enough for the tips, i've seen a pretty noticeable improvement in my driving since, i can't believe your channel isn't bigger!
I'm curious to see how much of a difference shifting at peak hp and redline does. I figured the torque multiplication at lower gears would be more advantageous than engine characteristics, unless the torque just drops off a cliff. I'd like to see a video analyzing the acceleration time difference.
Since horsepower is a function of RPMxTorque, once the horsepower drops off, that's also when torque significantly drops off. So basically that's the right point to shift up.
If you want to get technical, you can draw the output torque for all gears and RPM ranges over speed - it probably does mean it's better to rev the tits off in lower gears but upshift sooner in higher gears.
You want to shift at point past peak power where you haven't lost a significant amount of power, but it will put you relatively close to peak power in the next gear. When I set gearing in a given racing game, I try and set 1st and 2nd gear to suit a good launch and hairpin exit. Every other gear is close and keeps me within 5-10% of peak power the whole time, if possible. Peakier engines may not support that, though, so it's a matter of 'damage limitation' from shifting as far as picking gearing and shift points goes.
It's not as bad to rev an engine out to redline in the lower gears, even somewhat past peak power, because you're wasting less time shifting multiple times at a point where that matters, and the air resistance is lower at lower speeds, so the hit from briefly having less power to accelerate with shouldn't be as bad.
the best shift point for acceleration is when pre-shift power and after-shift power are equal. if you're shifting earlier you're missing on power in the next gear, if you're shifting later you're missing on power in the current gear.
@Stanisław Zieliński Depending on the shape of the power curve, yes. That's why I mentioned that peakier engines need a compromise with gearing, unless you have many, many gears to throw at keeping something like a small, highly tuned, NA engine in that sweet spot. Otherwise, after a shift, you're going to have to climb the hill again. Flatter power curves allow you to always be near the top of the hill, providing faster acceleration with less sensitivity to gearing closeness.
Sometimes when you aren't ready for the 1-2 shift you over rev it and you see the g meter drop off. Compare that to a pass where you nailed it you see the time being lost. Also granny shifting a turbo car dumps boost between gears which is not ideal haha
I remember watching you a year and a half ago and just found this channel again and i can say that I'm not disappointed, the quality got so much higher..
Thanks, mate. Once again, this was very helpful. In my journey it feels like one step forward two steps back.
I practice a new technique or theory so much, wrapping my mind around a new concept, drilling it repeatedly until I find that I have omitted or forgotten previous skills.
Of course I'm sure if I reviewed my old driving footage I would see that I have improved markedly since then. The Dunning-Kruger effect is true for both positive and negative self-assessment, for me anyway. 🥂
Hey homie, just keep going and trying. Sim racing in my limited experience is harder then irl, get down to a track day or an autocross irl when you can and you’ll see your likely way more skilled then you realise.
Sim racing is just as hard as irl and you loose things like depth perception and car feel and sense of speed, so it’s actually a lot harder. If youre hitting a wall with something on the game either just keep playing till you win or try irl.
As long as you’re keeping close to your best time, or beating it, you’re doing great. You’re not always gonna beat your best time other wise you’d already be driving f1 so just try and have fun and you’ll get better as time goes forward. Try stop focus on just ups killing and start trying to focus on fun.
Maybe even switch up discipline. If you’re grip, run drift for a bit. If your drift, run grip. You could try gravel rally or something. If you have a go at all the disciplines it’ll have a massive impact on your skill level in your own discipline.
the problem here is literally no one ive seen on this comment section or in the video take into account the difference in ratio between the gears, it is almost always beneficial to take the car at or near the redline before changing up simply because the gear you are in is more efficient at delivering the power to the wheels (cars with extreme power drop off near redline are the exception), its also the same reason cars with extremely short gears accelerate rapidly (rally cars for example)
I think that the engine braking is debatable. It could help with front-heavy fwd cars and make them rotate easier since only the front wheels are braking.
Left foot braking doing that thing for u way more precisely
He's completely wrong about engine braking. It's a vital part of slowing a car down. The only IRL instances of block changing (where you either skip gears or wait until just before turn in to downshift) are from the late 80s Group C and F1. This only happened because the cars slowed down quicker than the drivers could change down, and even then, they'd carefully choose the gears, say 6th 4th and 2nd, so that they could maximise engine braking.
@@davestopforthAgreed, hop in any racing game and pick an F1 car. Try braking without downshifting and then try braking while downshifting and you’ll notice a huge difference in braking distance.
Yes, keeping the momentum on the right trajectory through the corner is more beneficial. Instead of downshifting before and upshifting after the corner, sometimes is way better to just stay on the gear, trailbrake onto the apex and than progresively accelerate while easing the steering wheel to the straight line.
When i was playing racing games, i ended up with trying to always stay at highest gear possible through the given corner. It is always tied to the torque characteristic of given car. If i get into the "thrust" revs immidetaly after the corner on the higher gear, i didn't wasted the momentum and time on unnecessary downshift. It's a matter of constant experimenting while you "polish" the lap. There is no ready to use formula, everybody must experiment and push himself over the limit to achive new abilities.
That doesn't apply to every corner though and also heavily dependent on the racing line used but I agree for shallow corners this is what you want to do while not over driving the car
That was the smoothest ad transition I’ve ever heard😂🔥 great vid btw it helped a lot 💯
Short and informative. Some people would take the same amount of information and pointlessly stretch it out into a 20 min video.
That transition to the vpn ad was smooth
You can rev up during a braking phase during downshift to cancel bad balance from downshift. While youre trail braking, works just fine. Thats called talon pointe in french
Been watching for a long time, finally good to see the channel grow
Absolutely love the style of your videos. Hope your channel gets way more attention, wishing you all the success on the platform you deserve!
You can always heel toe by turning you foot the other direction if it’s more comfortable and definitely depending on your pedals.
Even if subconsciously your videos are actually helping me drive better in racing sims, and its explained fast and fun, no time wasted!
I could be mistaken but regarding upshifts isn't it always best to go for region with peak mean hp and ignore torque completely.
This was absolutely informative and I used it...wooooo started decreasing lap times. I had the same mentality when it came to braking but used a street style of braking rather then the track braking.. Thank 😊 you for this.
great advice..maybe I can apply this more. ALSO I love the GranTurismo 4 UI
That was the smoothest transition to a sponsor hahaha
First time here, but the smooth ad transition was sick af. LOL Never thought I'd say that. But I actually watched the whole thing. Thanks for that.
This is what's taught for Rallying. Now it doesn't really matter, but for true manuals and rallying this is what needs to be learned as well.
4:10 Takumi: I call this "The Heel & Toe Downshift"
I'm nothing when it comes to sim racing, i just play for fun. But I've learnt that trail braking and shifting a Lil early before exiting the corner(not applicable on each car) is one of the fastest way to be fast. Also, shifting down like too quickly or slow also makes a difference. Few cars need over revving and few short shifting. Every car is different.
that is literally the best intro for an sponsor
Sadly I play on a Controller so I will can't do the perfect downshifting, but the upshift was basically confirming what I thought. On GT7 I noticed the Alfa Romeo Giulia actually tells on the dash to change the gear before even reaching 6k rpm if I'm not wrong, and that actually keeps on the power band after I did laps changing gears on the car recommendation and redlining. But the downshift are the hardest thing for it.
Anyways, thanks for the useful information!
What do you mean, you definetly can down shift properly on a controller just need to enable the clutch in your settings lol
@@andrewfetter4843 I only saw your comment now. How do I set the clutch on GT7? I didn't saw any tutorial teaching it for controller...
In a RWD car, you can actually use engine braking from downshifting using the clutch the modulate to cause more braking force at the rear wheels..this takes a ton of skill even in a straight line but can definitely decrease your stopping distance if done right, of course this is dependent on other things like brake bias, tires, etc but it's basically a way to semi modulate brake bias using the clutch and engine braking and if attempting to do this in a corner, you're more likely to just upset things, I never experimented much with turning but to get you slowed down on a tight corner before rotation if you don't have enough rear brake bias, it can definitely help.
My car has messed up syncros so I have to heeltoe to drive it without grinding gears, it's pretty fun.
Bruh that advertisement was smoother than my drifting
I’ve been using heel and toe downshifting for a few years and I thought I understood the process, but now I’m unsure of the order of operations. I’ve always done Brake, Clutch in, Blip throttle, Shift down, Clutch out. Is it better to blip and then shift down (like I do) or shift down first and then blip?
Rev matching is matching engine rpm with the transmission rpm.
Yes the transmission is connected to the wheels but different gears require almost the same engine rpm for a downshit.
The wheels will have varying speeds.
That ad integration was seamless
When he shows the heel an toe, he uses the same shoes as Senna in the NSX test drive video. The details, man hahahaha
The flawless transition into the surfshark ad is spot on! Advertisment well done! :D
It helps a LOT if you can adjust your pedals to be close to eachother. It's how it is in most cars in real life anyway.I don't understand why some gaming hardware manufacturers make pedals so far apart.
Proper downshifting is heel and toe under hard braking. Proper up shifting isnt at the limiter. It's at the end of your power band.
Sometimes I like to purposefully shift lock for rotation. I found that I get faster lap times with that on some hairpins
I figured something was off with my downshifts. Thanks.
So I'm a self taught Forza Motorsport driver and got the wheel when 2 released and over the last 17 years with being able to drive the same cars on the same tracks consistently I have developed the driving style you have detailed here...makes me feel pretty good knowing that I was able to come to that determination myself and you sharing it with everyone is just going to make the field of competition that much more fun and interesting.
Sometimes, shift early to reduce the torque and go with full throttle is faster than modulating the torque with the gas pedal in lower gear.
Heel-Toe shifting is impossible in my Focus ST so I just do toe-toe shifting lol. I twist my right food inward and use the side of my foot to blip the gas while barely having a single toe on the brake pedal
It's also pretty difficult in my Fiesta ST, the brake pedal is super sensitive and the accelerator pedal is pretty low
@@s.baldrick3807 they do make a spacer for the accelerator to push it forward more I just haven't looked into getting it yet
Awesome editing and presentation of dry subject matter!
Cheers mate
Honestly, for optimal shifting points as rule of thumb just check (available in most sims) longitudinal g force, you want g force to stay as close as possible before and after the shift (and overall as high as possible), mind that not every car can be perfectly matched, but try to keep it as close as possible
Elaborate???
@@TheGreatTomDix it's easier if you have MoteC (cause it logs data over a whole period) but basically, you want to have the same g force (acceleration) before and after you upshift, or as close to it because it's not always possible to perfectly even it out, if you shift and g's get lower you're upshifting too early, if you shift and g's go higher you're upshifting too late, just run a couple times for testing with g meter on or recording with motec, find the optimal rpm and shift based on that, if you use motec you'd want the longitudinal g force line as smooth as possible, this is, without jumps or as small jumps as possible
This isn't always true. You can end up being faster at the tail end of an acceleration even if gearing up "too early" resulted in a loss of g-force.
@2:16 - great explanation - totally agree.
Hm, i will try it. I thought heal-toe is more for drifting not usual time attack racing too. But i will give it a shot. thanks
Great sponsor transition !
Look at the video of engineering explained where he explains that even though going higher up in revs you might drop some engine torque but it might still be favorable since you will get quite a mechanical disadvantage from the higher gear ratio
That ad shift was crazy
I never seen this version of "heel and toe". Funny technique.
My real heel-toe downshifting is just a side step, which might be useful for sim rigs in some cases
So true... Now I need to reprogram myself to program myself all over again xD.. Helpful video thanks
Left foot braking gang sound off!
Seriously I can't do the heal and toe chicanery to save my life, but I got really good at shifting without the clutch.
just because of how creative the use of the sub count was i subbed
Wait, people try to use engine braking going into a corner? I can't imagine how awful that must have made corner entry, especially on a rwd car.
Couple things I feel need correction:
1. The old adage that you want to maximize work that your engine does, and to do that, over time, you need to maximize power. This is where the expression "area under the curve" is relevant. Each of your shift points should focus on maximizing the area under the power curve, which inevitably means, you need to shift slightly after peak power. Torque is important, but to convert torque to power, there is another factor that's missing, which is rpm. You can produce more power at lower torque values just by spinning the engine faster and applying less torque more times per minute.
2. Heel-toe shifting. This is more of a fine detail critique. If you have the ankle mobility for it, it is better to pivot the heel around the metatarsals of the bottom of your feet, rather than rolling over. This allows for more precise control of braking pressure as the rotation around the metatarsal less affects the braking pressure compared to rolling off of it. In a sim rig, not as important compared to when driving a real car. If your physical ankle mobility is limited such that you can only execute the roll onto the throttle comfortably, then by all means, do it because it's better than nothing, but if you can rotate around the metatarsal, do that instead of being lazy and rolling onto the throttle.
I swear you are the one that told me to use engine braking before corners
As I mostly play GT7, should I explore the power bands for the cars that I drive, or should I just rely on the "rev bar" on the hud turning purple?
It's logical to me for the full bar to be the optimum shift point, but is that true?
Also depends what you are racing, most race cars have transmissions or transaxles where you dont need the clutch unless you are stopped and need to get going and then you are left foot braking and blimping the throttle with the right foot. Nascar and indy don't use the clutch when down or uo shifting, im not sure but i dont thunk f1 does either any more. Been like tthat for 10 years or more
that was the sneakiest VPN commercial ever, kudos
Shifting Is important but it isn’t the end all be all to turns, (RWD as an example) braking hard while going straight and progressively releasing brakes more as you turn and applying throttle will help with getting the vehicle to rotate through the turn a lot quicker. Almost like shock loading your front brakes and using the weight shift to let your rear wheels float over. Be mindful of oversteer as well.
That was the smoothest ad that I have ever seen
How about simply press clutch or n gear when cornering or drifting then hit gear depends on current speed when ready to accelerate?
finally someone who explained heel toe in an easily understandable way
"Drove around in my Pigeon"
Thank you, please recognize.
That was the best sponsor initiation I've ever seen
Downshifting during the braking period is more or less a strategy to allow for both hands-on the wheel during turn in.
i play your videos while i sleep, i'm too lazy to learn, so i hope that the information gets absorbed in my mind while i'm sleeping, and then i will wake up a better racing driver
Nice racing shoes. Makes it easier to heel and toe with precision
you will find heel and toe allot easier if you spin your foot rather than roll it. try hit the gas with the heal/underside of your foot. rolling your foot under g force is allot harder to control. i know this is a sim rig but the motion itself is better controlled if done with the bottom of your foot.
2:38 is incorrect, the best time to shift is what gives you the best power over rpm range. You can figure it out by doing a surface area calculation on the graph. According to the info, you would need to rev that engine out to 8100 for maximum performance.
it redlines at 7000
@@TSRB And that is why typically it's best to just shift at the redline like everyone does instinctively: It generally comes before the optimum shift point to maximize area under the power curve between the two rpm points.
Interesting video. If u came up with this on your own I applaud you. Keichi Tsuchiya explains this “heel toe” braking in his drift bible dvd. Of course his context is much different but his methods can be applied to time attack like you did here. Good video.
He also explains how you can throw all the good Heel-toe technique out the window at your own risk and use a really aggressive downshift to bring about a sudden engine brake effect to initiate a drift ("Shift Locking"). It was one of the 3 "non-weight transfer" drift starter tenchniques IIRC. Apparently he usually only did it in low traction settings as it isn't kind on the transmission at all.
@@naliboi93 Right! Such a priceless dvd. Not that I will ever get to apply it in real life but it was a great informative dvd.
@@BongerZ013 just did a quick rewatch of some of it. Still holds up surprisingly well if you don't mind the standard definition picture. Yeah, maybe not the best for day to day driving.
@@naliboi93 could come handy in slippery situations. Lol
@@BongerZ013 Perhaps. hopefully something I won't need to worry about too much with an econobox FF car. Wish we had more cheap and reliable manual RWD options in UK.
What are ur thoughts on over revving intentionally to get around a tight corner? Tbh I found it faster depending on the car
Til nothing bc I DD a manual sports car. This video is really informative to those who don't drive manuals.
i always use both engine braking and the brakes at the same time so i can back off a lot later into the corner
Most of your videos are about things I already know, but I watch simply because of the S+ presentation. My bad for not pushing the sub button for all this time :O
And obviously I share them to people I suck into our addiction :D
damn, that’s tough to know, hope I get better ❤❤❤
plush flip-flops also needed :D
With heel and toe downchange, should you not release the clutch on neutral? Clutch down, gear out, clutch up, blip the gas pedal to spin up gearbox, clutch down , low gear in, clutch up and gas!
There's no real point in double clutching in a simulator. You'd only do it on an older car irl if it doesn't have synchros; or if they were worn.
Amazing video man.
I wonder if i can rev match on a Automatic Chevrolet Optra 🗿
I can heel toe on my Miata just fine, no problem. But all pedals feel different and on my thrustmaster pedals I have such a hard time doing it 😭
I always get jerky on the brakes when I try
I used to think my RX-7 wanted to kill me. I still think that my RX-7 wants to kill me, but now I know that I was giving it extra encouragement. Thank you.
My entire life I upshift depending of the pitch of the motor's sound and breack when the curve of the car is not enought, that at first, after a few laps and found the racing line I adjust all the things.
shifting in the powerband was something i didnt know about somehow, thanks for the tips! so great to see you growing so much
it depends on the car, but what he said is wrong, you want the highest average power for whatever gear you're in, if the power is fairly flat at the top, and slightly drops off, you are much better off than if you ride the power as it grows, torque is just as arbitrary as rpm, the torque curve should not change where you shift at all, the only thing that matters is power,
torque * rpm = power.
In many racecars, especially endurance racecars that have big restrictors and lower redlines than most, you have to find the right area to shift, typically it's always redline, but sometimes, like with the ac 458 gt2 for example, it's not quite at the redline because power drops off too much.
The 86 he was driving you absolutely need to rev all the way to redline
Man, what an amazing video. New follower here
Thanks and welcome
Downshifting is not just for optimal acceleration, a drivers job is to control the weight of the vehicle, downshifting shifts the weight foward and compresses the front tire for increased grip during cornering.
Greatest tie - in Ad ever , nice one
Serious question, I understand this all in real life.
Are sims are there on that point where all these things are taken into account on the physics engine?
I am seeing people much more into these details lately, is it really necessary or are we overestimating the Sims?
Genuine question as I am trying get into it.
Thanks for the insight!
I use engine braking whenever I want to induce oversteering, and thus improve my rotation through the corner of car that understeer too much.
A car that rotates better and faster, takes the corner first.
I thought the idea of heel and toe was to remain on the throttle as you let off the clutch and brake at about the same time. Is that sometimes the case? Video seems to show the blip is designed to more or less synchronize the gear change but not affect what the tires are doing related to the tarmac as the clutch remains pulled in whole time. Guess that explains why the term blip is always used to describe the process. Does this make sense?
Yes great vid I think that’s why the 86 is a good car you have so much to play with
you forgot the most important part for a perfect downshift ; the Ralph Lauren slippers (In red for more speed )
In addition to what’s already been said: Apart from staying in revs longer for higher average hp, you will also be in a shorter ratio gear and therefore accelerating quicker. More whp is a way of thinking of it.