First 30 secs: okay good, I opened those correctly. Last 30 secs: yes, I'll finally find out how to open these. Last 10 secs: God DAMN those BEARINGS!!!
Where can you buy shields? Are they cool? The ones I have look really dope, they're golden with silver shields. But, shit, I can't open the damn things.
+Minh Tran Its actually [pretty easy to remove them lmao i just used a needle and popped it out, and then i place them back inside until all of the flaps clicked
Watch our other video on bearings and bearings spacers. That video will explain why one wheel is bad. Usually, it's just a dirty bearing. If the wheel is just slightly slower than the others it could be nothing. Free spinning wheels does not prove anything.
Rat Vision's videos should be given awards for their superb skateboard tech videos - professional, clear, simple and highly efficient. Keep up the high standards!
@sk8pwner9 If u are all about speed then u should never use WD-40. It will make u slower. WD-40 is not a lubricant even though it has some light lubricants in it. It's more of a solvent and cleaner. Its purpose is to free rusty stuck parts. WD40 is widely argued that it causes rust too. Whether it does or doesn't, I am still researching. WD-40 is not strictly a lubricant so should never be used as one. Use a good lubricant like I mentioned. Read the description or go to RatvisionDOTcom for info.
@nicoletot Since the board is old and the bearings are a little corroded just add lubricant to the bearings. Don't worry about cleaning them because drying bearings with shields on is not always perfect.
@foxfire1245 By clear bottom are you referring to the ball retainer (the thing that holds and separates the balls? If so leave that alone, don't remove it ever. Let me know if this helped.
@Enav8 No this didn't do anything to to ruin the bearing. It just scratched the rubber on the outside. The reason for not using a needle or a razor blade to remove the seal is that you can cut the rubber flap where you poke in to. This is why a I used a paper clip. The end is dull and won't cut that flap. If you do cut the flap it can slow the bearing down, but this amount of speed will go completely unnoticed.
Great video, you are one of the few to explain how to remove metal bearings. Thanks!!! I had to use WD-40 to pop some of my shields off. I know you don't recommand it, but it did the trick for me. I'll still clean my bearings properly. ;-)
You can still use the bearing with out the shield. It won't go back on. Bones Reds are perfect for anyone who wants a decent bearing for a good price. They certainly aren't the best, but for many people they are perfect for what they need.
Bones Reds are set at a good price. If price is an issue go with them. To us, they are more of an entry level bearing. If you don't demand a lot of performance and durability then they may work perfect for you.
We are talking about the same stuff. It may appear that what you mixed is working, but it's not really doing anything, and eventually your bearings will be ruined. You could much better performance from your bearings if you used a good lubricant. Vaseline is not going to protect your bearings because it is not thin enough to get into the metal. You still have metal on metal friction happening. Your mixture is only making a mess. Your bearings will eventually be ruined.
Yes I did the same. I removed one shield with a little plane screwdriver, cleaned the bearing and lubricated it with a mix of half solid vaseline and half liquid vaseline. Then left the open part facing the center of the wheel. It's working great so far.
You are correct. As you know there are 3 states/forms of water- solid, liquid, and gas. The point we are making is that skaters sometimes ride through water (liquid), and that moisture in the air (gas) can also damage the bearings.
My sector nine longboard that I bought exactly one year ago has the metal crown like bearing shields which can’t be reused if I want to them out to clean the bearings. One of them is making a horrible noise there. Chinese made grease ball bearings that sector nine is using even though they have a really good ABEC rating . I think I’m just going to replace all the bearings with something better and at least some silicone or rubber shields that I can remove to clean if I have to. Thank you for this video. Nice expose on the different types of manufacturing processes or shields of bearings. I need a refresher course and this is it.
i just started skating and am getting a nice new baker soon. thank you for helping me decide what bearings to get and how to take care of them. please continue making videos
Both sides. Be sure that both sides are in fact shields. Some people confuse the ball retainer/crown for a shield. For more details go to ratvision . com
I'm about to do maintenance on my little cruiser for the first time. Got some good info from other places but these vids present the info well with clear demonstration. Thanks a ton.
We don't recommend WD-40 at all. It's not a great solvent for cleaning bearings. Don't use it for anything on your skateboard. There is more info about WD-40 on our website at RatVisionDOTcom
@FOULER32 Yes. Once you bend the crap out of them to remove them they become trash. Try prying from a different spot. Where you were prying from and nothing was happening- was where the needle was touching the retainer. You were pretty much right on top of a ball. Pry slightly over from that spot and you'll notice you have a little more room. That shield will come off I promise. Now you know.
I'm going to answer this as if it were a serious question, because we get a lot of people who don't speak English well. Your bearings can "spoil", or in other words corrode sooner. The shield is there to protect the inside.
@1511116 Yes bones are rubber seals. The problem is that the other side is completely open. So there pretty much is no point when a bearing has one seal or seal.
@1511116 Don't worry so much. There is nothing to be intimidated about. Just follow the videos and you'll be fine. Putting the C-ring back on can be difficult. The worst thing you could is tighten the axle nut down too tight on the bearing, but if you use bearings spacers you won't damage the bearing. Just use common sense. if you have any questions send me a message thru my channel.
@FOULER32 They're "non-removable" because you can't put them back in. Once you remove it (by force) the shield is destroyed. Trust me, you can take it off. I guarantee that you are touching the retainer- the thing that separates the balls. A needle is harder to use, but will work. You have to BARELY put the needle inside that space. It will start to bend and lift up. Once you get enough of the shield up you can grab it with pliers and pull the thing off.
@johhnyBoii Absolutely! It's called a shield or seal for good reasons. The idiotic thing is that most bearings only come with one. Manufacturers thought since one side of the bearing faces in the wheel you really only need one shield on the outside of the wheel. This is not true. All it did was save them thousands of dollars but cutting their seal or shield costs by 50%. This results in more bearing purchases because oil leaks out and contaminants get in much easier. Put the shields back on.
@FOULER32 Removing whatever made your bearing stuck may not make the bearing work well afterwards. It could be a lost cause. It can be done if u insist. Use something stiff and thin enough to get between the inner ring and the shield. A tiny flathead screw driver is best, or razor blade. U r going to pry the shield up (not off, yet). Don't go in too far and touch the ball retainer when prying. Pry it up enough to grab the shield with pliers and just yank it off. Don't damage the ball retainer!
yea i ended up removing it for one, and it doesnt spin like it should, i appreciate you taking the time to reply for that. i had a feeling thats what had happened. i hope i can get them cleaned and they work again. but thanks for the help! its really appreciated!! :) good vids btw
There are either metal Shields or rubber Seals. All rubber seals are removable. I should have been more clear in my last response. "ZZS" means 2 removable metal shields, but you rarely see the 'S'. Take a good look at the non-removable shield in the video. Around the the edge you see what looks like a ring that has a bunch of tiny spaces all around. This is how to identify a non-removable shield.
You can do the same thing as shown in the video. You really need to take extra care with drying the bearing. It can be tough. Be sure to spin the bearing while drying.
As you can see in the video there is a nylon or metal ball retainer/crown/cage holding a separating the balls evenly. Removing the shields will not cause the balls to fall out.
You could try +90% rubbing alcohol. Dry thoroughly and add lubricant. The reason for using alcohol, instead of citrus cleaner, is that it's much easier to dry the bearings. The alcohol is not as good but may work better in your situation.
Well done. Bearings with inner race cage are difficult to properly clean to remove the last of the particles from inside that cage. And we must remove the seals on both sides to have a chance to clean it well. Paint thinner is the best to remove old grease, acetone works much less well (use gloves)
Of course it's best to remove both sides, if a bearing has a shield or seal on both sides. There is no need to remove the cage/retainer. You can wash bearings with anything like Dawn, shampoo, bug spray, toothpaste, and Axe deodorant spray. Any liquid is going to remove dirt and debris. To really clean the bearings good, it's best to use a good solvent to remove contaminants. We do recommend =90% alcohol if people have trouble finding citrus cleaner. Thanks for the comment
You're right. You can clean them the same way, but it's really hard to completely dry them. Try to get your hands on +90% rubbing alcohol. It's got less water than citrus cleaner. It may not do as good of a job as citrus cleaner, but you won't have as big of a risk of getting rust.
You need the c-ring to hold the shield on. Without it the shield doesn't stay on. Make sure that you are prying on the right end of it like we show in the video. it can be frustrating when if you are pushing the c-ring around and not actually prying it out. Try to poke it out rather than push it out. Hopefully that makes sense. It will come out. It can be very frustrating if you've never done it before.
Shove a screw driver inside the pivot cup and pry it out. If it doesn't want to come out completely, grab whatever part does come out with pliers, and then pull it out.
sheildless looks cool and I like hearing my bearings work. and i skate dirty streets and never noticed a difference but I do replace/treat out new products allot. perks if having extra money. maybe if you are broke allot keep them in
If you have removable shields then the answer is yes. It doesn't matter what the ABEC is. Typically the problem that most people have is that they put the paper clip in too far and end up prying on the ball retainer. You barely need stick the paper clip inside. If you feel it prying on the retainer move the clip over just a tiny bit.
@handom85 LOL! Sorry have to laugh. I have a feeling I went through the same when I was a kid. Anyway, glad my video helped. If u pressed the shield in at all it will slow the bearing down. Hopefully u didn't damage the retainer too, the thing that spaces out the balls. If u did damage the shield lets try to remove it. You want to pry it out like I did to seals. Use something with a point to get inside. Get the shield bent out enough so u can yank it off with pliers. Just keep it clean and lubed
You can do the same cleaning method but you have be absolutely sure you dry the bearings thoroughly. You can also soak them in +90% rubbing alcohol, dry completely add lube.
"Metal bearing shields can't be removed"
All hope is lost.
czcams.com/video/DkfCpl-fX_4/video.html
@@abasinsomars9533 ...
Mines came off but idk how it put it back on though
@@officialwoonthie same
they are removable just push into the seal with a knife carefully and it will poke right through it and lift it out
First 30 secs: okay good, I opened those correctly.
Last 30 secs: yes, I'll finally find out how to open these.
Last 10 secs: God DAMN those BEARINGS!!!
"Oh i cant wait to see how to remove the pressed bearing shields"
*Watches video*
GOD DAMN IT!
I was about to go to sleep all nice and content and informed, but noooo. *Sigh* Welp, time for xvideos.
You can remove them but they bend and get unusable, but u can buy shields and then put them on the bearing instead of the pressed ones.
Where can you buy shields? Are they cool? The ones I have look really dope, they're golden with silver shields. But, shit, I can't open the damn things.
+Gothika_47's Highlights literally the same reason i watched the video... god dammit!
lol ikr? he could've just said that in the beginning
I just opened the non removable metal shields :)) Now I skate with no shields.
+Minh Tran Congratulations on acquiring corroded bearings.
+Minh Tran Its actually [pretty easy to remove them lmao i just used a needle and popped it out, and then i place them back inside until all of the flaps clicked
Yea i rock the redz bearings with no shield, so far I see no problems, but I do avoid water and really dirty sidewalks.
Same here bra
+Minh Tran probably ok for most conditions. Add oil more often.
This channel is one of the best skateboard / boarding tutorial on youtube ( in my opinion ) , why you stop creating good content man :/
CZcams doesn't pay the bills. We are trying to get videos done soon.
damn it, i got the last bearing! not removable.
It's a fucking SCAM by the corporations!
Same, such a scam, cant clean them so they get corroded faster so you buy them faster
I am an Indian domiciled in the UK. This presenter is so sharp ,the likes of who make the American dream a reality. Thank you
Watch our other video on inserting and removing bearings.
Guess you got your answer with another video. HA. Thanks for the comment. Please subscribe if this helped you out
@krufdx Thanks for the comment. Subscribe if you like. I got a bunch more videos coming out soon
Watch our other video on bearings and bearings spacers. That video will explain why one wheel is bad. Usually, it's just a dirty bearing. If the wheel is just slightly slower than the others it could be nothing. Free spinning wheels does not prove anything.
I took the metal shield off and now I can clean them
Yea clean them with water and then skate them so the water washes them out.
.
Jk thatl rust em out
What are you using as lubricant? Watch our video on how to clean bearings. Are you putting anything on your bearings?
See our video on cleaning bearings. At the end it shows how to lubricate bearings.
Rat Vision's videos should be given awards for their superb skateboard tech videos - professional, clear, simple and highly efficient. Keep up the high standards!
Check out our other video about ABEC, Swiss, and ceramic bearings. We recommend Oust bearings.
You are very welcome. If you have any questions feel free to send us a private message through our channel.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCKKKKKK i have the last one
Ikr
Same. :/
You can remove them its just tricky but mine have been good for a while I’ve had them for a 9 months cleaned them like 2 times and they roll like new
@sk8pwner9 If u are all about speed then u should never use WD-40. It will make u slower. WD-40 is not a lubricant even though it has some light lubricants in it. It's more of a solvent and cleaner. Its purpose is to free rusty stuck parts. WD40 is widely argued that it causes rust too. Whether it does or doesn't, I am still researching. WD-40 is not strictly a lubricant so should never be used as one. Use a good lubricant like I mentioned. Read the description or go to RatvisionDOTcom for info.
Yes. Bearings need to always be lubricated.
@nicoletot Since the board is old and the bearings are a little corroded just add lubricant to the bearings. Don't worry about cleaning them because drying bearings with shields on is not always perfect.
Man love the videos, and how you present, crystal clear and gives confidence to us lesser mortals. Keep the videos coming.
Watch our other video.
@foxfire1245 By clear bottom are you referring to the ball retainer (the thing that holds and separates the balls? If so leave that alone, don't remove it ever. Let me know if this helped.
Yes. Place a drop between the inner ring and the shield.
Every time I have a skate gear question, I get stoked to see this channel. I think it’s time I subbed 😆
Glad to hear. Any videos you’d like to see us do? Any myths to bust?
Yes. You just need to be very careful when drying them. Thats the most important part.
1:47 broke my heart :'( why do they even make them like that if you can't open them? (without damage)
use a pin and poke it out
So you buy more of them
@Enav8 No this didn't do anything to to ruin the bearing. It just scratched the rubber on the outside. The reason for not using a needle or a razor blade to remove the seal is that you can cut the rubber flap where you poke in to. This is why a I used a paper clip. The end is dull and won't cut that flap. If you do cut the flap it can slow the bearing down, but this amount of speed will go completely unnoticed.
Great video, you are one of the few to explain how to remove metal bearings. Thanks!!!
I had to use WD-40 to pop some of my shields off. I know you don't recommand it, but it did the trick for me. I'll still clean my bearings properly. ;-)
@tak13sato You won't be able to switch out a metal shield for a rubber seal. The outer ring is made for one or the other.
@Sk8erMike1999 Im not sure what you mean by "check" bearings, but from what I've seen Pig bearings have removable metal shields.
You can still use the bearing with out the shield. It won't go back on. Bones Reds are perfect for anyone who wants a decent bearing for a good price. They certainly aren't the best, but for many people they are perfect for what they need.
Bones Reds are set at a good price. If price is an issue go with them. To us, they are more of an entry level bearing. If you don't demand a lot of performance and durability then they may work perfect for you.
We are talking about the same stuff. It may appear that what you mixed is working, but it's not really doing anything, and eventually your bearings will be ruined. You could much better performance from your bearings if you used a good lubricant. Vaseline is not going to protect your bearings because it is not thin enough to get into the metal. You still have metal on metal friction happening. Your mixture is only making a mess. Your bearings will eventually be ruined.
Yes I did the same. I removed one shield with a little plane screwdriver, cleaned the bearing and lubricated it with a mix of half solid vaseline and half liquid vaseline. Then left the open part facing the center of the wheel. It's working great so far.
The bearing shield does not slow a bearing down at all. Did you put lubricant inside?
Correct, it does not ruin the bearing to remove it only for cleaning. It should be put back on after cleaning is done and lubricants have been added.
You are correct. As you know there are 3 states/forms of water- solid, liquid, and gas. The point we are making is that skaters sometimes ride through water (liquid), and that moisture in the air (gas) can also damage the bearings.
I was looking for an instruction to open the C ring bearing, Thanks for the video!
My sector nine longboard that I bought exactly one year ago has the metal crown like bearing shields which can’t be reused if I want to them out to clean the bearings. One of them is making a horrible noise there. Chinese made grease ball bearings that sector nine is using even though they have a really good ABEC rating . I think I’m just going to replace all the bearings with something better and at least some silicone or rubber shields that I can remove to clean if I have to. Thank you for this video. Nice expose on the different types of manufacturing processes or shields of bearings. I need a refresher course and this is it.
i just started skating and am getting a nice new baker soon. thank you for helping me decide what bearings to get and how to take care of them. please continue making videos
you need to make more videos because this is the best skateboard channel I've seen.
Both sides. Be sure that both sides are in fact shields. Some people confuse the ball retainer/crown for a shield. For more details go to ratvision . com
I'm about to do maintenance on my little cruiser for the first time. Got some good info from other places but these vids present the info well with clear demonstration. Thanks a ton.
Can you get the shields back in? Highly doubt it.
"needles and razor can damage rubber flap"
.... proceeds to damage rubber anyway on video with that huge and sharp paper clip :D
Thank you!
This is the only video out there with precise information on how to disassemble bearings with macro shots.
@yamaha212121 Yes it would be smart. Give it a shot if you haven't already. I am not sure if they will go in, but I think they do.
@odddrifterboi Ha my comment looked pretty upset. My bad. Yes they can be removed but they are not intended to be.
We don't recommend WD-40 at all. It's not a great solvent for cleaning bearings. Don't use it for anything on your skateboard. There is more info about WD-40 on our website at RatVisionDOTcom
@FOULER32 Yes. Once you bend the crap out of them to remove them they become trash. Try prying from a different spot. Where you were prying from and nothing was happening- was where the needle was touching the retainer. You were pretty much right on top of a ball. Pry slightly over from that spot and you'll notice you have a little more room. That shield will come off I promise. Now you know.
I love the vids, they cover the important things that nobody bothers to talk about. Keep them coming.
Thanks for the description of shields, I wanted to clean bearings for the first time and could not see how to remove the shields, now I know why ;)
I'm going to answer this as if it were a serious question, because we get a lot of people who don't speak English well. Your bearings can "spoil", or in other words corrode sooner. The shield is there to protect the inside.
@1511116 Yes bones are rubber seals. The problem is that the other side is completely open. So there pretty much is no point when a bearing has one seal or seal.
Because we are about to launch a new site that we have been working on for the past year. We will as soon as things start to run smooth.
you were the ChrisFix of skateboarding, we miss you.
@1511116 Don't worry so much. There is nothing to be intimidated about. Just follow the videos and you'll be fine. Putting the C-ring back on can be difficult. The worst thing you could is tighten the axle nut down too tight on the bearing, but if you use bearings spacers you won't damage the bearing. Just use common sense. if you have any questions send me a message thru my channel.
@FOULER32 They're "non-removable" because you can't put them back in. Once you remove it (by force) the shield is destroyed. Trust me, you can take it off. I guarantee that you are touching the retainer- the thing that separates the balls. A needle is harder to use, but will work. You have to BARELY put the needle inside that space. It will start to bend and lift up. Once you get enough of the shield up you can grab it with pliers and pull the thing off.
@johhnyBoii Absolutely! It's called a shield or seal for good reasons. The idiotic thing is that most bearings only come with one. Manufacturers thought since one side of the bearing faces in the wheel you really only need one shield on the outside of the wheel. This is not true. All it did was save them thousands of dollars but cutting their seal or shield costs by 50%. This results in more bearing purchases because oil leaks out and contaminants get in much easier. Put the shields back on.
@FOULER32 Removing whatever made your bearing stuck may not make the bearing work well afterwards. It could be a lost cause. It can be done if u insist. Use something stiff and thin enough to get between the inner ring and the shield. A tiny flathead screw driver is best, or razor blade. U r going to pry the shield up (not off, yet). Don't go in too far and touch the ball retainer when prying. Pry it up enough to grab the shield with pliers and just yank it off. Don't damage the ball retainer!
@odddrifterboi No shit. Was there a point you wanted to make? They are not supposed to be removed.
yea i ended up removing it for one, and it doesnt spin like it should, i appreciate you taking the time to reply for that. i had a feeling thats what had happened. i hope i can get them cleaned and they work again. but thanks for the help! its really appreciated!! :) good vids btw
How are they? Did you clean them more or add more lube?
There are either metal Shields or rubber Seals. All rubber seals are removable. I should have been more clear in my last response. "ZZS" means 2 removable metal shields, but you rarely see the 'S'. Take a good look at the non-removable shield in the video. Around the the edge you see what looks like a ring that has a bunch of tiny spaces all around. This is how to identify a non-removable shield.
Thanks for your comment. Glad you like our videos.
@liamprum They are just like the red seals in the video.
Glad to hear the videos blew your mind.
You're welcome. Glad this worked for you.
Thank you for the great comment.
You can do the same thing as shown in the video. You really need to take extra care with drying the bearing. It can be tough. Be sure to spin the bearing while drying.
As you can see in the video there is a nylon or metal ball retainer/crown/cage holding a separating the balls evenly. Removing the shields will not cause the balls to fall out.
You could try +90% rubbing alcohol. Dry thoroughly and add lubricant. The reason for using alcohol, instead of citrus cleaner, is that it's much easier to dry the bearings. The alcohol is not as good but may work better in your situation.
Well done. Bearings with inner race cage are difficult to properly clean to remove the last of the particles from inside that cage. And we must remove the seals on both sides to have a chance to clean it well. Paint thinner is the best to remove old grease, acetone works much less well (use gloves)
AWESOME! Thank you for the comment.
Of course it's best to remove both sides, if a bearing has a shield or seal on both sides. There is no need to remove the cage/retainer. You can wash bearings with anything like Dawn, shampoo, bug spray, toothpaste, and Axe deodorant spray. Any liquid is going to remove dirt and debris. To really clean the bearings good, it's best to use a good solvent to remove contaminants. We do recommend =90% alcohol if people have trouble finding citrus cleaner. Thanks for the comment
Can you please explain what you are referring to?
You're right. You can clean them the same way, but it's really hard to completely dry them. Try to get your hands on +90% rubbing alcohol. It's got less water than citrus cleaner. It may not do as good of a job as citrus cleaner, but you won't have as big of a risk of getting rust.
You need the c-ring to hold the shield on. Without it the shield doesn't stay on. Make sure that you are prying on the right end of it like we show in the video. it can be frustrating when if you are pushing the c-ring around and not actually prying it out. Try to poke it out rather than push it out. Hopefully that makes sense. It will come out. It can be very frustrating if you've never done it before.
Shove a screw driver inside the pivot cup and pry it out. If it doesn't want to come out completely, grab whatever part does come out with pliers, and then pull it out.
Thanks for the quality vid. I am working on an old teletype with bearings on the carriage and may be able to use some of your videos. Keep posting :)
If they are rusted, it is best to get new bearings. You can try cleaning them with rubbing alcohol, but only if it is +90%.
sheildless looks cool and I like hearing my bearings work. and i skate dirty streets and never noticed a difference but I do replace/treat out new products allot. perks if having extra money. maybe if you are broke allot keep them in
I don't know what to say without hurting your feelings.
Add a couple drops of lubricant between the shield and inner ring. Wipe away any lubricant left on the outside.
If you have removable shields then the answer is yes. It doesn't matter what the ABEC is. Typically the problem that most people have is that they put the paper clip in too far and end up prying on the ball retainer. You barely need stick the paper clip inside. If you feel it prying on the retainer move the clip over just a tiny bit.
What do you mean too tight?
You can still clean the same way, but you have to absolutely sure that you dry the bearings completely. Thanks for the nice comment.
You cannot buy the C-ring separate. If your bearing has 2 shields put the shield on the outside of the wheel.
@handom85 LOL! Sorry have to laugh. I have a feeling I went through the same when I was a kid. Anyway, glad my video helped. If u pressed the shield in at all it will slow the bearing down. Hopefully u didn't damage the retainer too, the thing that spaces out the balls. If u did damage the shield lets try to remove it. You want to pry it out like I did to seals. Use something with a point to get inside. Get the shield bent out enough so u can yank it off with pliers. Just keep it clean and lubed
You can do the same cleaning method but you have be absolutely sure you dry the bearings thoroughly. You can also soak them in +90% rubbing alcohol, dry completely add lube.
I am not sure what problem you are having with the C-ring. It doesn't matter which way it goes in.
Awesome video. Currently cleaning the bearings from my quads and this is very informative and helpful. Thanks!
Warp speed? You didn't watch the other video we have on bearings did you?
Super late reply. Sorry. Just put a drop or 2 between the shield and the inner ring. Wipe off any lube on the shield.
Yes, the little space between the inner ring and the shield.
Thank God I found this video. I got the metal one with the "C" shield. Man... Thank you
ABEC 5? That's a very open question. Is there a brand you are thinking of?
@dhariks1 Yes
“Pressed in seals are not removable”
That’s false. But this is really bad on my end ahah.
Do I need new bearings??