You just helped me solve my problem that was driving me absolutely nuts! My 95 Jeep YJ 2.5L with a 4.0L throttle body swap had high idle issues. I replaced every sensor known to man, totally redid my vac lines, replaced manifold gaskets, and cleaned the TB 100 times. I never knew you could take the TB apart like this or that it could be the problem. Interesting thing is propane and throttle body cleaner leak tests never identified this! But I did what you recommended and BAM we are back in action! Thank you so much. You are THE MAN
My son and I just did this to his TB off of his '01 XJ...I can attest to the fact that this 'fix' works very well. We really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and know how, Rusty! Thank you so much!
Rusty thanks for making all of these how to videos for us shade tree mechanics. Always learn something new and you help us keep our XJs running strong. Definitely appreciate it!
My Jeep developed a large hissing sound after taking off the throttle body. I couldn't find the source right away it ended up being a large vacuum hose which was hidden on the side of the same structure the throttle body is attached to... drivers side. It drove me crazy as it sounded like it was the throttle body. I must have hit off doing this repair. Excellent video on this topic. My 2004 4 liter has metal instead of vinyl washers so I couldn't do exactly what you show here but it was still very informative and professional. Thanks!
Thanks, Rusty 411! Great idea. Worked well for my 240,000 mile throttle body. Thanks for the video. Also, I replied to perry jones comment...I'm pretty sure the o-ring is from position 012 in the kit...so 012 is a location and not a size. Figured this might help answer other people's questions.
I bought the exact same washers from the hardware store today and installed them. My sticky throttle problem seems to be fixed so for. Thanks for posting the o-ring sizes.
I also hunted the world over for new shaft seal with no luck, you have a brilliant idea, I'm working on my 04 wj as we speak. Thanks for sharing this. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Sometimes instead of welding on delicate or poor quality shafting in are machine shop we will use Belzona it's like JB Weld on steroids . It's machiniable ! We've had success on seal and bearing fits. Good job and keep it coming brother! There's 10,000 ways to skin a cat!
HELL YEA BROTHER! I think this might solve my high idle issue. I'm currently cleaning the shit outta my throttle body and I'm breaking out the o rings right now to see if I got the right size!!! Yeeeehhhhooooooo
This seems to have my vacuum issue also. FYI I found that using a 3/8 air chuck to be an easy way to set the Orings behind the bearings after fighting them for some time.
I'm a rank amateur mechanic compared to the likes of you, Rusty. I'm not even sure I have any vacuum leak in my TB. So, 1 - how did you determine this leak came from the TB? 2 - Can you tell visually or by touch the Throttle Shaft is worn before pulling it out of the TB? One slight criticism - in this 13-minute video, I'd have liked to see you disassemble the TB and pull out this Throttle Shaft. Not sure I can do this without screwing it up worse than it is. You show great mechanical know-how. Thanks for sharing this with the rest of us.
man of many trades master of non man I am been doing a hole Lotta Cusin and raising hell the old lady thinks I am turning into a mad man lol to much shit going on can't go trail riding it frikin sucks ass a big time
I have a vacuum leak at both points you shown there (smoke machine and smoke comes out through there) and chasing a rich condition in bank 1. Do you think this vacuum leak would cause the rich condition? I have no other leaks, have already replaced fuel pump, regulator, spark plugs, coils and a plethora of parts 😢
I have the same problem and have much done what you have done but I am running rich on both banks. I too have leakage around the throttle body area but typically such a leak causes a lean and not rich condition. My muffler may be the problem for a restricted exhaust system means a restricted intake which leads to a rich condition. I have a new fuel pump module with its built-in fuel regulator which could solve the problem if fuel pressure is too high but at the rail I get the required 59 psi reading. Some sources say the rail psi should be 49 unless the vehicle has the 4 cable connection plug attachment at the PCM as mine does. I was about the change the fuel pump on my 2004 liberty 3.7 but mine does not have the in-trunk assess port already cut out so I will have to drop the fuel tank which requires additional research. Please let me know how your trouble shooting progresses as I will do for you. . . Regards. . .
@@danielvalletta417so the latest is this: the rich condition continued to climb and the car, a 2002 Ford Expedition, began to idle rough and hesitate, with one instance where the car turned off on my while slowly running on drive. After a test drive on the highway for about 30 miles, the vehicle started misfiring badly and must have gone into limp mode as it was not accelerating and stuck on 2000 rpms or lower. I swapped parts back to see if that would make a difference but nothing. Did a smoke test through the exhaust pipe but nothing came out, although I am not sure I did it correctly or if the results are definitive. Decided to check on the spark plugs and ignition coils for bank 1, even though I had replaced them less than 6 months ago (spark plugs oem motorcraft, ignition coils cheap aftermarket from Amazon) and found that one of the ignition coils, the furthest one in the back, had failed when testing it with a multimeter. Swapped the ignition coils for bank 1 and the car is back to running smoothly, the p0172 is gone (bank 1 rich) and power seems to be back. However, my ltft for bank 1 shows -14 and -8, which is much lower than what it was but still high enough, while bank 2 ltft is reporting almost the same numbers but on the positive side, so definitely an imbalance. The strange part is that the stft are showing within normal range, so im waiting to drive more to see if the ltft adjust accordingly. Also, all of my o2 sensors are stuck on lean status, although they are switching between 0.1 and 0.8 within 3-5 seconds once they come on. The o2 after the cat are always around 0.01 and 0.4 so they should be working fine. Im going to keep an eye on the vacuum leaks and see if things improve or if more testing is needed; I’m learning as I go from youtube videos 🤷🏻
Just did this fix and after reassembling my gas pedal is feather light and sticks open when running. Any thoughts why? The tb snaps shut nicely until i attach the throttle cable, then its seems slow to close.
I'm having real trouble with this job. I looked at all the o-ring sets Harbor Freight had and saw no ".012" available. I settled on the metric 225 piece nitrile set they had and they all were too thick and tight causing the butterfly valve to stay open. After trying two different ring types, I had to put the old nylon rings back in (one was broken) my throttle. While super responsive with the rod cleaned and greased, it now gets a bad hitch in closing and I still have the original vacuum leak why I did it in the first place. Can you tell me the item number on the sets you use? Or any other details. I'd really appreciate it
This might help, I searched images of the harbor freight o-ring sets and found that the 328 piece set has an outline of sizes. The 012 size is 1/2 OD x 3/8 ID x 1/16. Picked these up and I'll be trying this tomorrow
Red XJ wider the better but the problem is weight and power to keep them cleaned out and axles to hold them skinny is easy to keep cleaned out due to there light weight but do dig down faster but with low power and stock axle shafts they work better than wide tires that's a long argued subject the best rig I've had for the mud was a cj with 383. 38.5 11 boogers up front on a Dana 44 and 39.5 15.50 on the rear 14 bolt I do like the 38.5 11 boogers but for my jeep would probably go 13.50 wide there are lots of pros and cons to both I've tried both skinny equals easy on parts easy to turn wide is go any where break everything balls out make it or break it tires lol hope that helped
Its weird that the bearing can be moved so easily and put the 2 o rings there to relocate the bearing to a new position. Most bearings are pressed fit into the bore. Its a pain to get them out.
Hi...thank you for great video. However, your o ring size confuses me. .012? ( I understand how to translate decimal to fraction (e.g. .25 equals 1/4), but this comes up weird. Do you mean Oreilly part no. 012 national o ring? thanks!
No problem! will match up o rings to the size of the bushing that comes out. Great idea. Thanks so much! Another thing im gonna do is try to smooth out the worn area of the shaft with a superglue/baking soda mixture (file and sand it of course)….
I think Rusty 411 meant the o-ring from position 012 in the harbor freight kit. I'm not sure if he had the red or the blue kit (red = std & blue = metric) but I just completed the repair using the blue metric kit. I used the o-rings from position 012... which are P9 o-rings. The sizes of the o-rings in position 012 are very similar between the standard and metric kits so it's possible that either one would work. Using the metric o-rings, I had to be careful when inserting the throttle shaft. I chamfered the leading edge, lubed it up well with silicone grease and took my time making sure not to dislodge the o-rings. Works like a champ! Replacement bearings are also available and linked below. red = (standard - www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html) blue = (metric- www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html) kit Replacement bearing - INA SCE67PP - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007D43DS2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Did you use just nitrile orings or did you use viton? Nitrile high range is 149 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m worried that in desert heat the orings will fail. What’re your thoughts?
@@bassfan41 I've heard alot of different stories I've been chasing a idle issue for a long time myself came down to a crack in the intake manifold and this bearing im not sure if this bearing has a substantial enough amount of air to cause a miss really vacuum leaks won't necessarily cause a "miss" but what a vacum leak "air leak" will cause is a false reading on your o2 sensors if they are old how old are your o2s? A vacuum leak generally causes high idle in cold Temps and low idle in hot Temps.
If it actually misses at idle its probably your o2 sensors and or TPS but the main reason is probably cause of a vacuum leak but like I said vaccum leak should cause a high or low idle that isn't as intense or feel the same as a miss fire
@@gatordave6629 I've replaced the front o2 along with all new exhaust, fuel injectors (which were cracked) and a new tps and cleaned the throttle body out (iac). This is a rebuilt motor , so I took it to a shop to have them set the cam synch on it too. The plugs all look good and I've done a power balance test with no one cylinder showing to be a problem. When the shop gave it back to me they said it seemed good to them, but I guess they didn't understand I didn't just want the synch set, but the whole idle issue resolved. They were busy as hell, so probably just wanted it out the door. I did spray starter fluid at the throttle shaft this morning and didn't hear any change. I may try it later on a cold throttle body and see if it's different. With as much play as the thing has in it, I don't know how it's not pulling air in, but letting smoke leak out of it. Maybe the pressure from my compressor it too high. I'm gonna do the fix on the shaft anyway and recheck everything with a smoke machine again. Thanks, Gator
You just helped me solve my problem that was driving me absolutely nuts! My 95 Jeep YJ 2.5L with a 4.0L throttle body swap had high idle issues. I replaced every sensor known to man, totally redid my vac lines, replaced manifold gaskets, and cleaned the TB 100 times. I never knew you could take the TB apart like this or that it could be the problem. Interesting thing is propane and throttle body cleaner leak tests never identified this! But I did what you recommended and BAM we are back in action! Thank you so much. You are THE MAN
@@RuckerStaggers sweet good deal
My son and I just did this to his TB off of his '01 XJ...I can attest to the fact that this 'fix' works very well. We really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and know how, Rusty! Thank you so much!
Welcome glad I can help
Rusty thanks for making all of these how to videos for us shade tree mechanics. Always learn something new and you help us keep our XJs running strong. Definitely appreciate it!
Troyboys74 your welcome I'm glad I can help you guys out
Man ,you think of everything!! You are one hell of mechanical genius!One of the few people that knows their stuff!
My Jeep developed a large hissing sound after taking off the throttle body. I couldn't find the source right away it ended up being a large vacuum hose which was hidden on the side of the same structure the throttle body is attached to... drivers side. It drove me crazy as it sounded like it was the throttle body. I must have hit off doing this repair.
Excellent video on this topic. My 2004 4 liter has metal instead of vinyl washers so I couldn't do exactly what you show here but it was still very informative and professional. Thanks!
Thanks, Rusty 411! Great idea. Worked well for my 240,000 mile throttle body. Thanks for the video. Also, I replied to perry jones comment...I'm pretty sure the o-ring is from position 012 in the kit...so 012 is a location and not a size. Figured this might help answer other people's questions.
I used a number 7 o-ring from Ace hardware, they are 1/2 OD, 3/8 ID 1/16 diameter, worked perfect on mine
I bought the exact same washers from the hardware store today and installed them. My sticky throttle problem seems to be fixed so for. Thanks for posting the o-ring sizes.
I also hunted the world over for new shaft seal with no luck, you have a brilliant idea, I'm working on my 04 wj as we speak. Thanks for sharing this. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Just did this to my xj today and it worked perfect thanks man saved me some money.
Freaking genius! And I don’t throw that word around much. Bravo!
Sometimes instead of welding on delicate or poor quality shafting in are machine shop we will use Belzona it's like JB Weld on steroids . It's machiniable ! We've had success on seal and bearing fits. Good job and keep it coming brother! There's 10,000 ways to skin a cat!
Eli Sancere I'll look that stuff up that would work better those shafts are soft jb weld would be harder than The base material lol thanks man
I removed the old washers and installed the o-rings. My sticky idle problem seems to be fixed. Thanks for the video.
Innovative. Top notch Rusty
That was excellent Rusty, thx.
Worked perfectly for me. Thanks so much for the good video
Genius bro. Thank you for a great video.
Thanks for the good info Rusty....
Thanks so much for the video. I will be doing this with the small vacuum leak I have.
HELL YEA BROTHER! I think this might solve my high idle issue. I'm currently cleaning the shit outta my throttle body and I'm breaking out the o rings right now to see if I got the right size!!! Yeeeehhhhooooooo
youtube gold right here
Wow. IF the shaft is not worn, could I just replace the nylon stuff with regular o-rings in the same spots?
thanks for posting, its a problem i need to solve .
This seems to have my vacuum issue also.
FYI I found that using a 3/8 air chuck to be an easy way to set the Orings behind the bearings after fighting them for some time.
You are a great mechanic man! I have a whistling noise when deceleration on my jeep. Do you think it will fix it?.
I'm a rank amateur mechanic compared to the likes of you, Rusty. I'm not even sure I have any vacuum leak in my TB. So, 1 - how did you determine this leak came from the TB? 2 - Can you tell visually or by touch the Throttle Shaft is worn before pulling it out of the TB? One slight criticism - in this 13-minute video, I'd have liked to see you disassemble the TB and pull out this Throttle Shaft. Not sure I can do this without screwing it up worse than it is. You show great mechanical know-how. Thanks for sharing this with the rest of us.
we all need one of them damn hr and a half trail riding videos I get what ya doing and teaching but sometimes u just need the damn woods LMFAO
man of many trades master of non I know man I know I need my fix to lmfao
you should be having withdrawals by now LMFAO
man of many trades master of non man I am been doing a hole Lotta Cusin and raising hell the old lady thinks I am turning into a mad man lol to much shit going on can't go trail riding it frikin sucks ass a big time
LMFAO yep withdrawals hit LMFAO im guessing the woods is calling your name very soon
man of many trades master of non yep lol
Just did this. Amazing and easy. Don't know y now my accelerator cable is loos and won't shut the butterfly any thoughts?
Found a leak in the same spot. Are 2.5 same as 4.0 throttle body bearing?
Hey hopefully you can shed some light i replaced the bearing and still have the same idle surge issue
I have a vacuum leak at both points you shown there (smoke machine and smoke comes out through there) and chasing a rich condition in bank 1. Do you think this vacuum leak would cause the rich condition? I have no other leaks, have already replaced fuel pump, regulator, spark plugs, coils and a plethora of parts 😢
I have the same problem and have much done what you have done but I am running rich on both banks. I too have leakage around the throttle body area but typically such a leak causes a lean and not rich condition. My muffler may be the problem for a restricted exhaust system means a restricted intake which leads to a rich condition. I have a new fuel pump module with its built-in fuel regulator which could solve the problem if fuel pressure is too high but at the rail I get the required 59 psi reading. Some sources say the rail psi should be 49 unless the vehicle has the 4 cable connection plug attachment at the PCM as mine does. I was about the change the fuel pump on my 2004 liberty 3.7 but mine does not have the in-trunk assess port already cut out so I will have to drop the fuel tank which requires additional research. Please let me know how your trouble shooting progresses as I will do for you. . . Regards. . .
@@danielvalletta417so the latest is this: the rich condition continued to climb and the car, a 2002 Ford Expedition, began to idle rough and hesitate, with one instance where the car turned off on my while slowly running on drive. After a test drive on the highway for about 30 miles, the vehicle started misfiring badly and must have gone into limp mode as it was not accelerating and stuck on 2000 rpms or lower.
I swapped parts back to see if that would make a difference but nothing. Did a smoke test through the exhaust pipe but nothing came out, although I am not sure I did it correctly or if the results are definitive. Decided to check on the spark plugs and ignition coils for bank 1, even though I had replaced them less than 6 months ago (spark plugs oem motorcraft, ignition coils cheap aftermarket from Amazon) and found that one of the ignition coils, the furthest one in the back, had failed when testing it with a multimeter. Swapped the ignition coils for bank 1 and the car is back to running smoothly, the p0172 is gone (bank 1 rich) and power seems to be back. However, my ltft for bank 1 shows -14 and -8, which is much lower than what it was but still high enough, while bank 2 ltft is reporting almost the same numbers but on the positive side, so definitely an imbalance. The strange part is that the stft are showing within normal range, so im waiting to drive more to see if the ltft adjust accordingly. Also, all of my o2 sensors are stuck on lean status, although they are switching between 0.1 and 0.8 within 3-5 seconds once they come on. The o2 after the cat are always around 0.01 and 0.4 so they should be working fine.
Im going to keep an eye on the vacuum leaks and see if things improve or if more testing is needed; I’m learning as I go from youtube videos 🤷🏻
Just did this fix and after reassembling my gas pedal is feather light and sticks open when running. Any thoughts why? The tb snaps shut nicely until i attach the throttle cable, then its seems slow to close.
Hey Rusty
Here is a idea, how about trying to use a small valve stem seal as a throttle shaft seal. .
SCE67-PP-L271/STDE part number to bearings
I just did this to my 04' hopefully this will last till I can get a rebuilt TB
My shaft is very worn. The engine was surging when I'd shift.
Will this cause a Jeep to not stay on
I'm having real trouble with this job. I looked at all the o-ring sets Harbor Freight had and saw no ".012" available. I settled on the metric 225 piece nitrile set they had and they all were too thick and tight causing the butterfly valve to stay open. After trying two different ring types, I had to put the old nylon rings back in (one was broken) my throttle. While super responsive with the rod cleaned and greased, it now gets a bad hitch in closing and I still have the original vacuum leak why I did it in the first place. Can you tell me the item number on the sets you use? Or any other details. I'd really appreciate it
If it's not working out just take the nylon ring and match up an oring problem solved
This might help, I searched images of the harbor freight o-ring sets and found that the 328 piece set has an outline of sizes. The 012 size is 1/2 OD x 3/8 ID x 1/16. Picked these up and I'll be trying this tomorrow
Wide vs skinny tires for mud, what do you think
Red XJ wider the better but the problem is weight and power to keep them cleaned out and axles to hold them skinny is easy to keep cleaned out due to there light weight but do dig down faster but with low power and stock axle shafts they work better than wide tires that's a long argued subject the best rig I've had for the mud was a cj with 383. 38.5 11 boogers up front on a Dana 44 and 39.5 15.50 on the rear 14 bolt I do like the 38.5 11 boogers but for my jeep would probably go 13.50 wide there are lots of pros and cons to both I've tried both skinny equals easy on parts easy to turn wide is go any where break everything balls out make it or break it tires lol hope that helped
The forest service has a swap buggie for fighting fires in the swap it had 6 foot wide tracks on it to stay up on top so think about that too
Its weird that the bearing can be moved so easily and put the 2 o rings there to relocate the bearing to a new position. Most bearings are pressed fit into the bore. Its a pain to get them out.
Hi...thank you for great video. However, your o ring size confuses me. .012? ( I understand how to translate decimal to fraction (e.g. .25 equals 1/4), but this
comes up weird. Do you mean Oreilly part no. 012 national o ring? thanks!
I had a kit on front of me it read .012 it was a kit from harbor freight I'm not sure the vid was a while back sorry
No problem! will match up o rings to the size of the bushing that comes out. Great idea. Thanks so much!
Another thing im gonna do is try to smooth out the worn area of the shaft with a superglue/baking soda mixture (file and
sand it of course)….
@@perryjones8997 Did you ever find the correct inner/outer diameter of the orings? I had no luck with their 225 metric nitrile set
I think Rusty 411 meant the o-ring from position 012 in the harbor freight kit. I'm not sure if he had the red or the blue kit (red = std & blue = metric) but I just completed the repair using the blue metric kit. I used the o-rings from position 012... which are P9 o-rings. The sizes of the o-rings in position 012 are very similar between the standard and metric kits so it's possible that either one would work. Using the metric o-rings, I had to be careful when inserting the throttle shaft. I chamfered the leading edge, lubed it up well with silicone grease and took my time making sure not to dislodge the o-rings. Works like a champ!
Replacement bearings are also available and linked below.
red = (standard - www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html)
blue = (metric- www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html) kit
Replacement bearing - INA SCE67PP - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007D43DS2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Could a vacuum leak of this nature cause my engine to shake erratically when stopping and taking off?
It would make it ideal high
Why 4 o-rings if you’re only using 2 and the tps side seals with the tps?
Also, did you do standard sized o-rings or metric
There metric orings and use 4 to help support the shaft on both sides and locate non both side same as factory did
Did you use just nitrile orings or did you use viton?
Nitrile high range is 149 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m worried that in desert heat the orings will fail. What’re your thoughts?
Viton orings don’t have as good abrasion resistance as nitrile though.
What size o-ring did you use in metric a012?
Rusty 411 thoughts?:)
Did this cause a little bit of bouncy needle on the tachometer I smoke tested and this bearing leaks
I just smoke tested mine and it was leaking too. I've been hunting a misfire at idle, but my tach is pretty steady. Did it fix your issue?
@@bassfan41 I've heard alot of different stories I've been chasing a idle issue for a long time myself came down to a crack in the intake manifold and this bearing im not sure if this bearing has a substantial enough amount of air to cause a miss really vacuum leaks won't necessarily cause a "miss" but what a vacum leak "air leak" will cause is a false reading on your o2 sensors if they are old how old are your o2s? A vacuum leak generally causes high idle in cold Temps and low idle in hot Temps.
If it actually misses at idle its probably your o2 sensors and or TPS but the main reason is probably cause of a vacuum leak but like I said vaccum leak should cause a high or low idle that isn't as intense or feel the same as a miss fire
What I'm saying is attack it at its source rather than spending lots of money trying to band aid everything I learned that the hard way growing up lol
@@gatordave6629 I've replaced the front o2 along with all new exhaust, fuel injectors (which were cracked) and a new tps and cleaned the throttle body out (iac). This is a rebuilt motor , so I took it to a shop to have them set the cam synch on it too. The plugs all look good and I've done a power balance test with no one cylinder showing to be a problem. When the shop gave it back to me they said it seemed good to them, but I guess they didn't understand I didn't just want the synch set, but the whole idle issue resolved. They were busy as hell, so probably just wanted it out the door. I did spray starter fluid at the throttle shaft this morning and didn't hear any change. I may try it later on a cold throttle body and see if it's different. With as much play as the thing has in it, I don't know how it's not pulling air in, but letting smoke leak out of it. Maybe the pressure from my compressor it too high. I'm gonna do the fix on the shaft anyway and recheck everything with a smoke machine again. Thanks, Gator
Thank you 😎