Weedo tina 2 common fails if you are new
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- 2 of the more common fails with people new to 3d printing with the tina 2.
Its a great machine but if its operated wrong you get problems.
2 av de mest vanliga felen om du är ny med 3d utskrifter på weedo tina 2.
Det är en underbar liten maskin men med små misstag kan det bli en mardröm.
You diamond. It solved my issue straight away.
Thank you so much for the video!
If it helps iam happy 😇
The tina2 have a flawed cable arrangement and good to know about.
This single cable attachment makes fan and z probe usually break pretty fast.
Its to tightly attached to the x carriage.
Hey could you share how you made that custom cover for the grate? Its always a pain to remove the grate whenever i have to clean the nozzle.
I used the free tinkercad app and measured where the fan holes are and simply printed many versions and changes until I had a fit 😄
Everything was working fine until I added new gcode to the removable disc and tried to create something new. Now it appears that the printer bed is not aligned and it won't even create old objects that were already auto installed on the hard drive. It starts to make it, but the leveling bed is off. I tried leveling the bed and that still didn't work. Is there a way I can restore to factory settings and try again?
@@JessicaStevens-u3q did you use there own slicer wiibuilder or wath its called ?
Anyway so do there slicer have a specific start gcode you have to copy If you use another slicer.
In the start gcode is it telling it to bed level and heat nozzles up.
Make sure you have not the one for a version with heated bed so it tryes to do this also.
But very hard for me to guess? but very comon is that the z offset is completely off and you should be able to find it in the machines menues.
Thank you so much for your quick reply. I can't remember what slicer I used. I just want to delete all of that and go back to the original files that were provided and worked just fine. How do I reset the Tina too so that the z offset is reset and computed correctly?
@@designsavvy08 i dont remember completely but is there not a eproom reset hole beside the screen?
You know like on some android tablets where you use a needle to push it.
I have my tina not in use and in my basement for the last 8 months.
Thank you!!!
Thank you for this. Tack för detta! I've seen those problems discussed, good to know it's easily avoided/fixed and not a major problem with the printer. I haven't bought one yet (visst finns de på Clas Olsson?) but so far, it seems to be what I'm looking for. Do you know if it is easy/possible to replace the steppers and make it quieter?
Check for updated model called tina2 s.
The s after is important....
New model with heated bed and silent stepsticks.
Clas ohlsson do not have this one that I know.
But check on Amazon sweden.
The model that have heathed bed is the updated one.
@@3dskrivarskoj176 Thanks for the quick answer and thanks for the heads up about the 'S' version 👍 I've worked with bigger, more advanced printers before, but now I'd like to help my local library get started with offering the public access to 3d printing. I'm thinking it might be best for them to start with something compact and inexpensive so they can have several available before they invest in anything bigger or more advanced. If it's a printer that's available to buy at Clas Olsson, then people can get a good introduction at the library and maybe end up buying something similar for their own home. But from what you say, I'll definitely recommend the s-version instead. It's similar enough to what's available to buy on the high street, but the improved functionality is essential in the library environment I think. Have you heard of any Swedish libraries offering 3d printing facilities?
@@helenstrand2409 no sorry have not really checked for libraries If they have.
There is another small easy to use machine from 3d prima based in Malmö aswell.
And its cheaper then the tina 2.
I think this have less issues then the tina2 😁
www.3dprima.com/se/3d-printers/all-3d-printers/primacreator-p120-v4-blue_24131_5228
@@helenstrand2409 If I would suggest something more expensiv it is the sovol so5 i recently got.
Its around 3700 skr but a really good creality ender 5 clone with many improvements.
Its a box design printer.
But probably not good for a library 🤪
@@3dskrivarskoj176 The Prima looks interesting and it would be good to be able to contect a Swedish company directly. Although, I couldn't find much (recent) info/reviews online. I haven't heard of Sovol before. Looks good though. If the budget stretches to >3000sek per printer, then I think I'd be more interested in a flashforge (adventurer 3). Not just because it's available to buy off the shelf, but also because I've read good things about their printers.
Do you know how to fix the fan? I recently broke my fan accidentally by touching it. I got replacement, but it still didn’t work. Both fans probably work, but it just doesn’t spin
I have not used my tina for a little while.
So the fan do not start after you heat to like 55?
The fans are not supposed to kick in until heat hits above 50.
Dont overtight the screws holding the fan or it might get stuck.
Check all connectors to the small board all the way to main board under the screen for loose connectors.
If you are in bad luck the small board back on the x gantry could be damaged.
But to be sure also check so they sent the right fan....
I think tina uses 5 volt fans and most resellers sell 12 or 24 volt ones.
@@3dskrivarskoj176 thanks for helping and i was able to get it to work, the fan started spinning after it heated to 50, even though it did not do it before…
How do I fix the fan which has stopped working ?
Get a new from support or read the backside wich one to order.
Usually states voltage and size.
30x30x10 is squared 30 mm and 10 mm thick for example.
Voltage is important.
And simplier to get from them when they use shorter cable and right connector.
This is odd, i bought the tina2 basic printer 3 days ago and mine came with that sensor cable already routed behind the filament tube. Also mine came without that metal mesh grill over the fan. Also my hot end nozzle has a blue silicone cover over it. Very odd that its so different to other ones iv seen. My hot end didnt have a cardboard cover it came with a moulded foam block protecting it.
The same tina is sold by 3-5 other brands with small changes.
Weedo is only one of them and entina is another.
hi , let me explain something there are 3 versions of the base model tina without the 's at the end.
first version did include the metal guard so kids don't stick their hands inside.
second version removed the metal guard and upgraded the hot end with the red silicone, whenever is printing it is almost close to impossible to stick a finger in the hot end while is printing that's why they removed the unnecessary metal shield .
third and final version
they fix some problems with the auto calibration sensor and upgraded it to a Chinese better brand more mhz to be more precise but rest assure all the versions come from the factory weedo the only other company that sells the same machine with different brand logo is the etina they are rebranding the weedoo printer with their logos.
maybe its the filament it came with, but mine keeps clogging no matter what I do. I have to not have that zip tie on so that I can take the hot end off and clean it everytime it does. I've had to use a hammer and screw driver to get out filament stuck in the heatsinks tube. I'm really starting to think I bought a $70 paperweight but maybe its just the filament I got with it that is bad. I have some on the way but it hasn't shipped yet and I was hoping to get a 1kg spool holder printed before it got here... Now it keeps gouging the build surface and by the time I adjust the z offset, the extruder cools off and clogs again... I've only gotten one print out if it, the test square and I've been messing with it all day. It was clogged the second I got it, so I'm thinking there is just an issue with the hod end. Idk.
Very often is the problem then that the fan on hotend shuts down or stop at some positions.
This is very comon with fan cable breaking on it and again the machines terrible cable management.
I've had the exact same issue and haven't been able to get mine working in the entire year I've had it. Have you found any solutions?
@@raincat1o1 No. I received another unit from the seller and it worked. The issue with the old one is that the fan wasn't spinning and the white PTFE guide tube wasn't down into the heatsink of the hot end. It needs to but up to the hot ends tube
it just will not feed no matter what I do, adjusting the temperature etc. By the time its done doing its auto leveling it cools off enough to where it wont extrude
Make sure you dont make any errors in the slicer like have changed printing temp.
Hardware wise so is the cable management on this machine terrible.
All the cables do more orvless break at some point.
With it turning of heating could be many things....
Thermistor cable or heather cable etc.
Do you not get any message in the display?
@@3dskrivarskoj176 No, I replaced the fan and still nothing. It just clogs no matter what I do. The company is supposed to be sending me another one, but I'm still messing with this one to get it working.
@@sokoloft3 sometimes you have to cut away a small bit of the ptfe tubing that goes all down to the nozzle so you know.
Only a small bit like 10 mm.
But is tough to get everything thight later when putting it back together.
The tubing degrades by time from the heat .
And it goes all the way to the nozzle that is bad more pr less.
@@3dskrivarskoj176 I don't think its that but I'll take a look. Right now its printing, just it isn't reliable feeding. It got done with what would of been the raft and started extruding. Its printing, but just barely and looks awful. Waiting for it to finish to see what happens. With the fan I have as well its too big. So I can only screw in two of the bolts, so the whole extruder head has slop in it front to back. All sorts of jank. Hopefully the other one is in better condition or has parts I can take from it
@@3dskrivarskoj176 Awesome, well so far so good. I got it to successfully print a 1kg spool holder for it, as well as some feet that elevate it up some. Its on the second foot now and hasn't clogged! However, when I first got it. I cleaned it with the heating block on and the nozzle removed. So plastic got on the threads and now they're practically gone and cross threaded. So that heating element is pretty well butchered. Glad I'm getting another one. I need to find where to buy a new one since that and the fan is all thats wrong with this one I'm thinking.
My bed leveling it skips it when it prints what do i do
Probably broken sensor cable.
It do 1 or 2 probes and nothing else?
This is very comon on the tina 2 machines.
Contact weedo and see If they send you a new one.
@@3dskrivarskoj176 it just displays it for a bit then skips it completely to heating
Hallo, kannst du bitte das stl- file für die
Kühlung online stellen? Danke
Hi.
I dont understand could you write in english please .
@@3dskrivarskoj176 Hallo, can you Preise upload the stl-file for the cooling System online, Thanks
how do i fix the weale on it (the thing that puls the belt)
X or y?
the y
@@3dskrivarskoj176
like the plate
@@3dskrivarskoj176 y the belt came off
@@user-tk6kq9kt6c you can unscrew the y motor to make it easier to get the belt on.
The belt is only put inside a cutout to not slip on the bed carriage it self.
Its easier to take of the motor and put the belt on.
Or at least make the motor looser.
When you have belt on and motor tightened the try to get the belt properly on the y carriage.
This printer prints 200mm/s???
I really dont think its even close.
More 40-60 mms.
It have a old 8 bit board and old loud stepsticks.
Who told it do?
i dont know if its true!! but TINA 2S specifications are 200mm/s@@3dskrivarskoj176
hi! i have a question more a problem really... i just got this printer and connected it to the wiibuilder app. when i slice the object and then try to upload it it says "upload error" and the printer says "download failed". Does anyone know why this happend and how to solve it?
@@lauchsuppesan55 my machine dont have the wifi function so I cant help you there.
But make sure to transfer on older 2.4 ghz to avoid a simple mistake.
My vacum robot refuses anything else wireless then the old 2.4 g bandwith.
Also try to have a blank sd card on the 3d printer If it tryes to write anything.
My old creality cr 5 writes the bed mesh data on the same sd card you have your 3d files as a bin filé.
I think I'm right in saying you can't upload files via WiFi as it was never updated by the company,you can transfer gcodes by connect a pc to it or by SD card,i know because i did it very easily.i hope this helped?
Happy printing 👍