Residential Metal Roof | WATER LEAK Seam Repair | Fixing transition from main to garage roof
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- Watch the video on Repairing Metal Roof Seams • DO NOT repair your Met... .
Repairing a Metal roof seam. The transition from a high pitch roof to a low slope needs to be sealed with Silicone Patch
bergstromm.com/product/silico...
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0:00 Transition causing leaks
1:40 Understanding what leak
3:46 Preparing to seal the seam
5:22 Using Lacquer Thinners
7:04 Using Masking Tape
8:36 Seal Seam after preparation
13:22 The results after 1 day - Jak na to + styl
These videos are wonderful and I’m learning so much about roofing. And your wife is an excellent videographer!
Thank you so much for this video. I bought 1.9 gallons of the product and some cheese cloth. I have a similar problem but no residue of any prior attempts to correct the problem. You and your wife are a great team and it looks like there is much joy working together.
Why didn't you tuck flashing under the upper roof and over the lower roof?
Exactly, what foolish way to repair this
Thanks. I have exact same situation and roof seam. The more I seal it the more it leaks. I shall try your method as it looks correct.
Oh my god! He's so cool! Thanks for sharing, this is great!
I fixed one like that not to long ago. The water was coming from some vents higher up that weren’t sealed. It has transition metal but it was on top of the underlayment so water was running under it. Water finds a way!
The only issue I have is at the joints. That's not 100percent leak proof. Transition flashing is needed. Where the metal laps, he puts sealant under and over joint, but sometimes that will not fix leak water can still penetrate at the joint above where he sealed. You'd have to seal the entire overlap to be certain. Especially with ice. Transition flashing period. I understand they're trying to sell products. This product may be excellent, but not in this area.
Love you guys. Thank for sharing ❤️
I agree. I any activities , PREPARATION is very important.
This video is wonderful 💜 thank you.
Amazing video, learned a lot :), thanks
Thank you for making these videos!
I watched a bunch of your videos before this one, now I don’t know how much of the information I can trust after hearing you say many times never use silicone on a metal roof. I don’t understand why you used a big silicone patch and seemed like you didn’t get to the root of the problem from higher up.
This dude just be saying stuff honestly
You guys are great!
What can I use on my metal Terrace/patio roof.
The roof it leaks where it meets the house wall. It has metal flashing & some tar was also added.
Thank you 🙏
Where do you get the "fleece tape" used in the video?
I repaired one similar, ended up having to go back because it was the vents higher up that weren’t sealed properly and water was running under panels.
Great work Sir. I've learnt so much. You have a great wife too 🤠 Thank you
Thanks 👍
Can you paint over this to match the color of the roof?
Can you tell me what fabric you put over the top so I can buy some of that also
What is the name of this white paper roll that you used as a layer on top of silicon patch?
Why did you tek screw into the centre of the pans? I thought you should screw into the tops of the ridge, or inside the pans but next to the overlap ridge as this will hold down the cap edge of the overlapping sheet much more firmly. What you haven't pointed out is this roof is incorrectly overlapped, with the underlap side of the sheets being put on the top of the overlap side.
The sidelap between sheets of roofing is designed to have a capillary cavity . (The underside edges have a 10mm flat section at the sheet edge, the overlap edges have a tighter curve and a higher sheet edge) The manufacturer states do not block these cavities because moisture entering the side lap may not be able to drain unimpeded down the roof slope. The video shows from about the 10 minute mark the sealing of the underside of the ridge. Good possibility of blocking the ridge cavity and sending water in just above the top sealant line. A thin line of sealant 50mm above Seal, spiralling down from the top of the ridge downslope to the pan, and a small v cut above this to allow an exit of capillary moisture above the joint, will fix these upslope side lap joints.
Extending that lower roof still applies. so that you are relying on the natural flow of water instead of relying on the blocking with sealant.
Lastly what happens when you need electrical access?
flashing trasition with soft edge, best solution
What product name for the fleece? Pls
Good real stuff
Thanks
Is it available in india
Sweetheart very nice information and nice video love you
You say to use turbo seal rubber, than you say use silicone, which is right?
All you had to do is cut about 2inches off the top roof and put a piece of transition trim in and it would of been half the work and twice as good of a fix
You are absolutely right. If I had the material to do so, I would. I did this for free for these people and I was not gonna spend several hours to get something together.
Thanks for the comment and you are 100% correct
Thank you. I was wondering what was the ideal solution. I'm having the same problem right now.
You have stuck the overlapping ridges together on the sloping roof. There is normally an anti capillary gap on these side laps and normally they should be able to run
out at the end of the sheets onto the flat roof section. (there is a designed in smaller radius on the last overlap of a sheet). Blocking this capillary gap invites moisture to cross around the ridge into the inside, before it gets down to the flat roof section.
Keep it open and extend the lower roof with turned up pans.
Hello, can you give more info about your point? Any link to where I could read more? I have the same issue in this video so finding the right solution is important
@@JD-kp4dp bluescope steel have details on their website, Lysaght architectural detailing manual roof and wall flashings 2016.
National construction codes 2016. These are the references
Are you in Greenburg?
I have a horizontal roof seam on a low pitch roof should i use silicon patch with fleece or turbo poly shield with fleece. It runs about 20 feet long. Also where do you get the fleece? Thank you! Great videos!
Turbo Poly Seal. You get it from Bergstromm.com The fleece and the Turbo
Good band aid repair... would have been great with a bent sheet metal insert under it???
I agree
That would have fixed it properly. Just a piece of metal. Thats all. Maybe a flat roof o hehe flat part as well.
Why put the screws on the flat of the metal roofing. They are to be on the high part so they keep out of the running water.come on rookie move.
@@Perromedic0 yes 27 years industrial roofing. This guy is a hack. Im a roofing inspector in ont Canada. So yes I ha e experience. Do you? I thought his channel was satire it was so shity work. Look at a manufacturer site if you want tips.
I have a question: I have a galvanized roof that is about 37 years old. It doesn’t leak, but the galvanize coating is wearing off and it’s starting to rust. For the last few years I have been using rust converter to try and stop the rust, and then use spray can cold galvanize compound to cover the rust.
What do you suggest for a problem like this?
The rust is unsightly and I don’t want it to rust all the way through the roof. It’s pretty large areas scattered about.
It’s a silver roof with white trim.
I had a similar problem with my galvanized roof. I used Tremclad primer for galvanized metal for the entire roof, and then 2 coats of Tremclad rust paint. The Tremclad folks told me that I could use regular rust paint over the rusted areas, since the galvanized coating is all gone, and use the primer only over the areas that were not yet rusted. But I found it easier to paint the entire roof with both products. The roof was first prepared by power washing. Still looks good 3 years on.
✋you're the best
thanks
Could i use the other stuff turbo poly seal then paint when dry
yes
What type of paint will stick to that silicone patch?
An oil-based maybe?
Or maybe better not to paint it all?
no paint at all
Anyone else notice that with panel lap?
We use 1 toilet paper roll and white viny silicone paint. Good, so far..
What is the fleece, do I find that at home depot
Unfortunately, you can not find it anywhere. It is specially formulated to work with turbo poly seal and Super silicone seal
@@FlatRoofDoctor Can't find it "anywhere"? We can't buy what you demonstrated the use of?
@@benhammon4515 You will find it here bergstromm.com/
The Doc tells you a fib when he says "you can not find it anywhere" You can buy the polyester roll in different lengths and sizes at any hardware store. The Doc has a vested interest in Bergstrom so he plugs it. There are situations where you may need a stiffer meshing. In that case you can use various types of differently woven fiberglass mesh
@@redpost2380 Yeah, they try and tell you this is specially formulated just for this from this company but it's just a re-branded product that covers many uses, and as you said, can be found in any big box or hardware store.haha
Like most of your stuff but I WOULD cut the upper roof off ABOUT 4 inches and slip a proper transition metal under upper and over the bottom...what your doing,,,water from above will back up under metal lap,,if not today, tomorrow don't doubt me on this,,,to borrow a little Limbaugh lingo,,,WOULD be faster and right,,,MERRY CHRISTMAS,,WHEN THEY CALL YOU IN JANUARY BRING A ROLL OF 18 IN FLASHING
Correct, you and some others have made the same comment, very good advice
It needed flashing at the transition.
I will stick to asphalt shingles, I know to many people that had metal roofs installed and had problems. maybe installation error i would think , but metal roof not for me.
Metal is definitely the way to go . Up to 130 mile winds. This metal in this video is installed incorrectly from not having a proper transition metal to panels being installed improperly. I’m a roofer and I would never get shingles . If you get metal installed properly, it will last a long time. Put it like this, go and rip a shingle with your hands and then go and try that with metal.
@@mexisoc Do you need to change the screws after so many years because the rubber gaskets dry out and fail?
@@lar4305 That's a valid question that many want to know but unfortunately he did not reply.
@@lar4305 YES you do. The gaskets dry out when the screws start to work their way out of the wood due to thermal expansion. If the screw is still tight then the gasket should not fail. Luckily ZXL woodbinder screws are now available with a 40 year warranty. My metal roof is 20 years old some of the original #12 screws are starting to pop up. I'm replacing them with #14 ZXL with a bit of Lexel caulk and don't expect to have the same issue for many years to come.
its a good idea to use gloves when using solvents
You are right. I have been doing this for almost 40 years and I still keep telling myself I should use gloves
You didn't mention to paint over the fleece after you applied it
Yes you’re right maybe because is diferente material?
It's the only way to correctly use the fleece, you have to apply a liberal base coat, then the fleece then paint over so none of the fleece is showing
Water will get back under from where to two sheets overlap via capillary action.
not in this case, but point well taken, you are also correct
I think you said to never use silicone
He said never use tar or calk
You've created a water dam at the upward most part of the repair. If this repair was done in and area where water freezes during winter the ice will undoubtedly start breaking the silicone from the metal. You should have feathered the upward most part of the repair.
He should have installed wakaflex on top of the lower section and tucked it under the upper panels this would allow for a 11 inch water diverter. I would never install silicone on a transition it essentially blocks or dams water not just that extreme hot or ice will split silicone.
You need a aprint flashings after 3 or 5 years the roof leak s again and the sheeting getting rotten I'm a roofer Kevin Petersen
Word of advice. Use gloves and a respirator when handling chemicals that can cause cancer such as the lacquer thinner. Hearing protection when using a grinder. Folks, getting old before your time really sucks so use proper personal protective equipment (PPE).
I keep a box of disposable rubber gloves on hand to protect myself from the solvent based cleaners tearing my hands up and to keep the silicone off. You may want to try using a SEBS product instead of silicone on metal roofs. SEBS is specifically designed for metal. SEBS products are a rust inhibitor.
You have very good observations thank you for your advice
You said your self in other videos to never use silicone, then you use it.. Shaken my head
You are confused. I said bot to coat entire roofs with "Silicone" and I have said never to use "Silicone Caulking" That is completely different than using a Silicone-based product to do flashing or repairs. The Silicone composition in Silicone Patch or in Super Silicone Seal is much different than that is found in Silicone Caulking or Coatings.
Canadians are really ganging up against me.
TOM PIPPS FOAM- BATON ROUGE LOUIDISIANA USA HI HELLO &
That's it just keep gooping it up time and time again. It obviously needs torn off and replaced. Do it right once and for all.
Ridiculous!
I agree Tracy, but it is a fix. If had some metal to slide under, I would have done so. But this fix worked as well and I just wanted to show how to make a transition no matter the situation.
I think ya need to wear kneepads, much wear and tear on the knees..
Doc, these videos are great because they highlight the many problems metal flat roofs have. You had a choice. Make the transition OVER or UNDER? Doc the OVER transition has already failed you have made the same mistake twice but with that better but expensive silicon material you sell. You are too experienced not to know that the LONG TERM solution is a metal sheet that is fitted and properly fixed UNDER the inclined sheets. Lead flashing would be malleable and long lasting but with poisoning issues due to acid rain etc. One solution is 8" butyl backed aluminium flashing that goes under the inclined metal sheets. There are a multitude of flashing rolls that if properly fitted would last as long as your silicone BUT unlike your silicone material they are MUCH EASIER to remove and replace in 20 years time. When preparing the surface, take care of your and your wife's health by wearing protective gear not just for the eyes but hands and nose.
you are absolutely correct.; The only difference is your method that you are describing is much more expensive and regular home owner will not attempt it. So compare apples with apples. That repair was done over a year ago, and the owner is still very happy.
With all respect for your efforts, but you say you are The Doctor? In civilian clothes and no kneepads working on the roof? This repair is just the sort of repair that a home-owner himself would do. A true craftsman would make a mechanical and not chemical repair, i.e. a transition slab under the upper sheet and over the bottomsheet with sufficient overlap. If we would work like you do, we would not have so many satisfied customers...
You are absolutely right. The way you describe a repair would be by far better than what I did. I tried out this product and 3 years later it still works. We never charged the homeowner.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Your honesty deserves respect! Keep up the good work and greetings from Czech Republik. We are just 480kms (300 miles) from the Ukranian border.... Strange feeling. How these poor people of Ukraine are going to repair this massive war-damage is beyond me... Good to see so many nations willing to help them.
Camera man has no clue how to take shots
He seems lost😂😂😂😂😂
That stinky tape is WORTHLESS NEVER use it,Been there done that,it Will not work
Possibly the worst roofer I've ever seen.
You absolutely correct. I am the worst hack of all times. I will never be on your standards. I am sorry that you even watch any of the videos.
This guy is creepy
Horrible just so horrible I thought this was a how not to video!!!
Very bad repair
I am dealing with this very situation, a transition from roof of house to porch. The way that looked when you were done, looks like it would catch water at the top part of your patch because it is way too thick. Being too thick, the water would pool at that location and over time, would have to fail. If it were feathered out at the top and made thin, where the water would easily flow over it, I think it may actually work. the way you did it, where it's thick at the top, I don't see no-way it wouldn't leak. Just my observation, and this isn't my first time doing a DIY job.