I tried this as well and had the same issues. Separating cleanly from the glass really needs some kind of solvent that will dissolve the glue and not damage the filters. I could not find any suppliers of large polarizing sheets who would ship to South Africa, but eventually used some replacement filters meant for iPad screens that were just the right size for the AR400. These were very cheap and I still have a whole drawer of them. If we need larger sizes in future I would look for the same thing, or recycle an old TV and do more research about the solvents needed.
Glad to know I am not the only one who failed :) with the first time. The LCD TV screen should give a very large Polarisation filter sheet which can cover even entire large diffuser. Regardign the polarisation sheet size, I purchased one on EBAY and negotiated nonstandard cut size. It wasnt an issue. It was the seller from Germany.
That's an interesting and time consuming way to get rid of an old monitor! Excellent and informative video as usual, remind me not to lend you any of my old monitors!
I am sure anything can be recycled if you need it. I am afraid tho, that light efficiency from such panels isnt the best and woudl rather recommend strong, color calibrated LED panels for such job. Cheers!
Thanks, doing my best. It was a short video I recorded in a meantime as I had a spare LCD screen to sacrifice :) and wanted to learn something I knew in theory only. I am still working on color calibration video (since almost 2 years now) and I hope it to be next one.. I stuck on metals and need more pure samples and higher magnifications to play with. Next plan to cover subject of ROUGHNESS as its another which isnt as simple as it looks like.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Pretty cool, I didn't know you were working on color calibration video, what is it exactly? Also roughness sounds nice, can't wait to watch it.
I love how true to form you are in your videos by including screw ups ... (ps.. try a heat gun next time? :) ) dude.. I was wondering... how do you properly calibrate the filters lens/strobe. From what I'm understanding you use a circular polarization on lens and linear on strobe...but not sure how to line them up. The larger filter on strobe (picked up an AR400 as per your suggestion) shows easy results with rotation but not seeing anything with lens adjustment. Seeing the proper adjustment on larger is a small rotation.. Im "guessing" the secondary is even smaller.. (key word.."guessing") ..Also "guessing" both need to be rotated to find that sweet spot.. Is there a technique you can suggest? Please keep up your amazing and helpful content! Your delivery is humorous and pleasant to follow along! This is not an easy task for technical information!
Thanks. The difference between CIRCULAR and LINEAR polarisation filrer that CIRCULAR is one sided while the LINEAR is double sided :). Most filters for lenses are CIRCULAR as they can be mounted only one side. Regarding calibration, I calibrate/rotate the filter on the camera before entire session. In my case it means that the arrow marker on the filter mounted to the camera has to be UP as well as the handle on SCAN SPACE filter. To make sure all is set I often use a chrome ball but it can be anything reflective. Even a window glass or mirror. I use the chrome ball technique when I use filter without marker or.. use more light sources (mosltly LEDs) positioned in different areas so I need to adjust them individualy. Hope that makes sense :)
I went into a TV repair shop and was given a lot of sheets of different film for free. The polarized film had no traces of glue and was smooth. Perhaps there are different technologies for the production of TV panels? I was also given matte and transparent films.
Nice, I am curious what tech did they use. I have heard that some polariser sheets are easier to take off and some not and that it depends on certain case, basically on the screen type (TV, computer screen etc.) and its quality. You can take any filter off by melting the glue with high temperature, but keep in mind that high temperatire damages filter itself permanently and removes its propertities. So it possible that filters you get this way are less efficient and more inconsistent to original ones.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Thanks! Please tell me, if I use several flashes, and each one is wearing a polarizing film, in this case will I get a cross-polarization effect? The light will be polarized, but it will fall and reflect at different angles. Or is it a prerequisite that the film on the flashes and the filter on the lens are in the same plane?
@@user-cx8nn8vq2f as long as you adjust polarisation angle for each light source individualy it should work, but every time you move the camera, or light sources, you need to repeat re-adjustment.
I dont think it would help as the filter doesnt let the water pass through it, I also wouldnt be surprised if the glue used was waterproof. It would need to be something which disolves the glue without damaging the filter. But the idea itself isnt bad and maybe warm towel would help and soften the glue a bit. The problem with the heat is that it changes crystal structure of the filter and pemanently damages it, but warm, not hot water in theory might help. Unfortunately don't have another screen to sacrifice and test this idea in action :)
Hi have three things.. There was nice technic to roll filter from screen on some stick/bar just start in corner and carefully roll whole screen(used on hp screen to remove semimate finish.) backlight diffuser is excellent to build light from. produces very nice soft light, and last think be wery careful when disassembling old cathode lcd.. Cathode tubes contains heavy metals and are poisonous..
Tried the same thing for my AR400, failed too. It's must be possible with some better equipement, but the time involved + the tools needed are not worth the price of a cheap filter.
I fully agree. Initially I was hoping to get at least one 22 inch large polarisation filter sheet out of it. Even if some of these small pieces I managed to get can be useful to polarise some small LED lights I presented in this video, the amount of work needed to bring them to the level of quality, sheets available on ebay are, is questionable. But this is something I had to learn by myself and fail by myself .. especially that I heard about this approach as easy peasy option, which it definitelly is not :)
Man, you were so unlucky with your screen model. I just extracted two fully intact polarizer films plus several diffuser films from an older Dell screen in under 20 minutes. The films were not even glued except for the margins.
I just shared my experience without any cheating in detail. I didnt play with other screens but I heard that it depends on the screen and case and its quite random. So maybe I wasnt lucky or maybe you were very lucky. I bet the truth is somewhere in between. Cheers :)
Yup, same result on 1st try, broke the screen and pulled off small pieces, second try used a heat gun, a bit better, I think someone used benzene to dissolve glue, I used windex, didn’t go great but went a bit better than with nothing - I beleive limonene would do it - it dissolves glue, was used to replace pei sheets for 3d printers.. limonene is lemon oil.. anyway, looked for a cheapest polarizer for a tv on ebay.. and I didn’t use it yet, now a video where to use it (flash rings and lights?)
Glad to know it wasnt just me who failed with the first time :). As I shared in this video, heat damages the filter permanently, therefore any heat gun doesnt sound like the best idea. I used some fancy windshield cleaner with strong dirt disslolvent but it didnt work as well I expected too. Might give a limonene a try just to learn something useful.. so thanks for the tip.. but at the end, as mentioned in this video, I will probably simply just order a clean, high quality polariser sheet. I decided to record this one as was approached a few times by some folks asking for advice about cheaper alternative to expensive polarisation filter sheets and one of my screens broke. So found it as an opportunity to jump out from pure theory into some practice and learn some stuff I was talking about before. Now I know that it is possible but not as easy as it might look. Regarding future plans, I am still working on 'Color Calibration' video and planning to do it as a next one. I stucked on metals as they are really tricky and results I get differs to official everyone uses. So it slows me down as I want to be sure I am right before I publish anything in this regard :). This one cost me a fortune already as metals samples are very expensive. Still got some research to cover. The next subject I plan to cover is another issue I feel like many struggle with.. the subject of 'roughness'. Its another one which seems easy until you go into details :). That might be a good idea to record a more comprehensive video about actual use of polarisation phenomenon to capture different stuff but I believe I covered it pretty well already. Of course there are still things worth to cover like building a mobile cross polarised ambient setup for extreme small subject captures where camera facing light might be too large.. or building the setup of many polarised light to give diffuses polarised light that can be used to scan large props etc. But its not at the top of my 'TO DO' list now :)
@@GrzegorzBaranArt ok, yeah heat gun seemed to change the polarizer.. I think everyone will destroy the panel on first try they are way fragile, I did a few and decided it’s not gonna be that easy.. found some guy on youtube actually changed the polarizer, removed old and installed a new one.. the key is in the disolving liquid.. Great explanation on the lcd tech at least :) ..
I believe it should help but high temperature affects structure of crystals polariser is made of, therefore damages polarisation properties permanently. So after applying the temperature you turn this sheet into transparent one which does nothing :). As far as I remember I covered this somewhere in this video.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Yea my fault. I made the comment before watching the video till the end. Well then there is only some chemical left. Anything else appears to me pointless. But anyway interesting video.
@@MrGTAmodsgermanAs some shared in comments, some screen polarisers are easier to separate to others. If I recall correctly someone mentioned that polarisers used for TV screens are easier to separate to these mounted on computer screens. I consider my attempt to get one here as a failure and would rather purchase a brand new, clean polariser sheet that waste my time trying to get another one this way :D Cheers!
I am not sure what you mean by sticking sheets of those. How to use polarisation and cross polarisation? If yes, I covered it in my other video about cross-polarisation: czcams.com/video/uWtoZs1jgOg/video.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE and since its 3 years old, I updated my findings in further videos.
There is no way to recycle! You take the sheet all crumpled and without glue! How am I going to put this without glue and crumpled in a multimeter, thermometer, radio that an lcd! No chance! Best Buy!
I tried this as well and had the same issues. Separating cleanly from the glass really needs some kind of solvent that will dissolve the glue and not damage the filters.
I could not find any suppliers of large polarizing sheets who would ship to South Africa, but eventually used some replacement filters meant for iPad screens that were just the right size for the AR400. These were very cheap and I still have a whole drawer of them.
If we need larger sizes in future I would look for the same thing, or recycle an old TV and do more research about the solvents needed.
Glad to know I am not the only one who failed :) with the first time. The LCD TV screen should give a very large Polarisation filter sheet which can cover even entire large diffuser. Regardign the polarisation sheet size, I purchased one on EBAY and negotiated nonstandard cut size. It wasnt an issue. It was the seller from Germany.
This is the video I was looking for. I have a 300 mm lens I want a polarizer for and they are really expensive. I'm going to give it a try.
That's an interesting and time consuming way to get rid of an old monitor! Excellent and informative video as usual, remind me not to lend you any of my old monitors!
:D
I also saw someone in a Photogrammetry group, who ripped out an old monitor screen to create an soft light. So basically both can be used.
I am sure anything can be recycled if you need it. I am afraid tho, that light efficiency from such panels isnt the best and woudl rather recommend strong, color calibrated LED panels for such job. Cheers!
Nice to watch you again. Thanks for showing us your experiments, even if they fail are worth it. What are you messing with? What's in your mind?
Thanks, doing my best. It was a short video I recorded in a meantime as I had a spare LCD screen to sacrifice :) and wanted to learn something I knew in theory only. I am still working on color calibration video (since almost 2 years now) and I hope it to be next one.. I stuck on metals and need more pure samples and higher magnifications to play with. Next plan to cover subject of ROUGHNESS as its another which isnt as simple as it looks like.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Pretty cool, I didn't know you were working on color calibration video, what is it exactly? Also roughness sounds nice, can't wait to watch it.
@@UnrealVirtualUniversity Its related to this list: czcams.com/video/TcTh-1X2FsQ/video.html
I love how true to form you are in your videos by including screw ups ... (ps.. try a heat gun next time? :) )
dude.. I was wondering... how do you properly calibrate the filters lens/strobe. From what I'm understanding you use a circular polarization on lens and linear on strobe...but not sure how to line them up. The larger filter on strobe (picked up an AR400 as per your suggestion) shows easy results with rotation but not seeing anything with lens adjustment. Seeing the proper adjustment on larger is a small rotation.. Im "guessing" the secondary is even smaller.. (key word.."guessing") ..Also "guessing" both need to be rotated to find that sweet spot.. Is there a technique you can suggest?
Please keep up your amazing and helpful content! Your delivery is humorous and pleasant to follow along! This is not an easy task for technical information!
Thanks. The difference between CIRCULAR and LINEAR polarisation filrer that CIRCULAR is one sided while the LINEAR is double sided :). Most filters for lenses are CIRCULAR as they can be mounted only one side. Regarding calibration, I calibrate/rotate the filter on the camera before entire session. In my case it means that the arrow marker on the filter mounted to the camera has to be UP as well as the handle on SCAN SPACE filter. To make sure all is set I often use a chrome ball but it can be anything reflective. Even a window glass or mirror.
I use the chrome ball technique when I use filter without marker or.. use more light sources (mosltly LEDs) positioned in different areas so I need to adjust them individualy. Hope that makes sense :)
I went into a TV repair shop and was given a lot of sheets of different film for free. The polarized film had no traces of glue and was smooth. Perhaps there are different technologies for the production of TV panels? I was also given matte and transparent films.
Nice, I am curious what tech did they use. I have heard that some polariser sheets are easier to take off and some not and that it depends on certain case, basically on the screen type (TV, computer screen etc.) and its quality.
You can take any filter off by melting the glue with high temperature, but keep in mind that high temperatire damages filter itself permanently and removes its propertities. So it possible that filters you get this way are less efficient and more inconsistent to original ones.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Thanks! Please tell me, if I use several flashes, and each one is wearing a polarizing film, in this case will I get a cross-polarization effect? The light will be polarized, but it will fall and reflect at different angles. Or is it a prerequisite that the film on the flashes and the filter on the lens are in the same plane?
@@user-cx8nn8vq2f as long as you adjust polarisation angle for each light source individualy it should work, but every time you move the camera, or light sources, you need to repeat re-adjustment.
Hi, I always refer to your videos.
If you have a chance, I would like to see a video of your leaf SSS shoots, etc
Thanks
I found that acetone on some sheets actually helps to remove it easily without damage
Thanks for the tip. Definitely sounds like worth to try. Cheers!
To separate the filter, maybe you should try to put wet towels or paper over the screen for around 24hs. It will help you a lot to loosen that filter.
I dont think it would help as the filter doesnt let the water pass through it, I also wouldnt be surprised if the glue used was waterproof. It would need to be something which disolves the glue without damaging the filter. But the idea itself isnt bad and maybe warm towel would help and soften the glue a bit. The problem with the heat is that it changes crystal structure of the filter and pemanently damages it, but warm, not hot water in theory might help. Unfortunately don't have another screen to sacrifice and test this idea in action :)
Hi have three things.. There was nice technic to roll filter from screen on some stick/bar just start in corner and carefully roll whole screen(used on hp screen to remove semimate finish.) backlight diffuser is excellent to build light from. produces very nice soft light, and last think be wery careful when disassembling old cathode lcd.. Cathode tubes contains heavy metals and are poisonous..
Thanks for these tips, very appreciated. Regarding the cathode-ray tube.. I thought they were used in CRT displays only, werent they?
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Before LED tech caught up, old LCD screens used fluorescent tubes as back light, maybe he's talking about those?
Tried the same thing for my AR400, failed too. It's must be possible with some better equipement, but the time involved + the tools needed are not worth the price of a cheap filter.
I fully agree. Initially I was hoping to get at least one 22 inch large polarisation filter sheet out of it. Even if some of these small pieces I managed to get can be useful to polarise some small LED lights I presented in this video, the amount of work needed to bring them to the level of quality, sheets available on ebay are, is questionable. But this is something I had to learn by myself and fail by myself .. especially that I heard about this approach as easy peasy option, which it definitelly is not :)
Displays called "LED" are usually LCD with LED backlight instead of older CCFL backlight.
Man, you were so unlucky with your screen model. I just extracted two fully intact polarizer films plus several diffuser films from an older Dell screen in under 20 minutes. The films were not even glued except for the margins.
I just shared my experience without any cheating in detail. I didnt play with other screens but I heard that it depends on the screen and case and its quite random. So maybe I wasnt lucky or maybe you were very lucky. I bet the truth is somewhere in between. Cheers :)
I have used the diffusers for diy led panels. A lot of the smaller tv/screens sheets have been glued whereas a lot of the larger were loose.
Yup, same result on 1st try, broke the screen and pulled off small pieces, second try used a heat gun, a bit better, I think someone used benzene to dissolve glue, I used windex, didn’t go great but went a bit better than with nothing - I beleive limonene would do it - it dissolves glue, was used to replace pei sheets for 3d printers.. limonene is lemon oil..
anyway, looked for a cheapest polarizer for a tv on ebay.. and I didn’t use it yet, now a video where to use it (flash rings and lights?)
Glad to know it wasnt just me who failed with the first time :). As I shared in this video, heat damages the filter permanently, therefore any heat gun doesnt sound like the best idea. I used some fancy windshield cleaner with strong dirt disslolvent but it didnt work as well I expected too. Might give a limonene a try just to learn something useful.. so thanks for the tip.. but at the end, as mentioned in this video, I will probably simply just order a clean, high quality polariser sheet.
I decided to record this one as was approached a few times by some folks asking for advice about cheaper alternative to expensive polarisation filter sheets and one of my screens broke. So found it as an opportunity to jump out from pure theory into some practice and learn some stuff I was talking about before. Now I know that it is possible but not as easy as it might look.
Regarding future plans, I am still working on 'Color Calibration' video and planning to do it as a next one. I stucked on metals as they are really tricky and results I get differs to official everyone uses. So it slows me down as I want to be sure I am right before I publish anything in this regard :). This one cost me a fortune already as metals samples are very expensive. Still got some research to cover. The next subject I plan to cover is another issue I feel like many struggle with.. the subject of 'roughness'. Its another one which seems easy until you go into details :).
That might be a good idea to record a more comprehensive video about actual use of polarisation phenomenon to capture different stuff but I believe I covered it pretty well already. Of course there are still things worth to cover like building a mobile cross polarised ambient setup for extreme small subject captures where camera facing light might be too large.. or building the setup of many polarised light to give diffuses polarised light that can be used to scan large props etc. But its not at the top of my 'TO DO' list now :)
@@GrzegorzBaranArt ok, yeah heat gun seemed to change the polarizer.. I think everyone will destroy the panel on first try they are way fragile, I did a few and decided it’s not gonna be that easy.. found some guy on youtube actually changed the polarizer, removed old and installed a new one.. the key is in the disolving liquid..
Great explanation on the lcd tech at least :) ..
Awesome info - thanks for sharing
Still inspiring as hell... :D
Thanks :)
7:79 What about using a heat gun instead of a knife to peel it off? I guess it's just glue, right?
I believe it should help but high temperature affects structure of crystals polariser is made of, therefore damages polarisation properties permanently. So after applying the temperature you turn this sheet into transparent one which does nothing :). As far as I remember I covered this somewhere in this video.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Yea my fault. I made the comment before watching the video till the end. Well then there is only some chemical left. Anything else appears to me pointless. But anyway interesting video.
@@MrGTAmodsgermanAs some shared in comments, some screen polarisers are easier to separate to others. If I recall correctly someone mentioned that polarisers used for TV screens are easier to separate to these mounted on computer screens.
I consider my attempt to get one here as a failure and would rather purchase a brand new, clean polariser sheet that waste my time trying to get another one this way :D
Cheers!
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Interesting 🤔 I saw a comment here about those Iphone screen protector which might be the easiest option if i understood correctly.
nice!
Cheers! :)
Do i need 64 or 128gb ram to handle 110million high poly asset in blender?
How can I stick a sheet of those? I want to reuse the ones I have... thanks
I am not sure what you mean by sticking sheets of those. How to use polarisation and cross polarisation? If yes, I covered it in my other video about cross-polarisation: czcams.com/video/uWtoZs1jgOg/video.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
and since its 3 years old, I updated my findings in further videos.
@@GrzegorzBaranArt Sorry, I meant glue to put the fil on any screen
There is no way to recycle! You take the sheet all crumpled and without glue! How am I going to put this without glue and crumpled in a multimeter, thermometer, radio that an lcd! No chance! Best Buy!