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Easy DIY Solar Panel Roof Installation
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- TopSpeed Parts: signaturesolar.com/shop-all/s...
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I wanted to get 6 solar panels installed on a detached garage with an asphalt shingle roof for a bunch of upcoming projects. I need something DIY-friendly and also with some flexibility of future expansion. I ran across the SnapNRack TopSpeed system which looked perfect for my application and a very interesting new design. I will walk you through the complete installation process so you can see if this is the right option for your future PV project needs.
Configuration Tool: configure.snapnrack.com:8443/...
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TopSpeed Parts: signaturesolar.com/shop-all/solar-panels/mounting-hardware/solar-roof-mounts/snapnrack-topspeed-mounting-system/?ref=tWl8ELLgfBNOCr
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I'd be pretty leery of all those penetrations and relying on the sealant. I'd also question the strength being only tied into the sheathing (and most people won't even know how well that's nailed down either!) I also don't like all the snow loads aren't placed on the rafters, just the sheathing. I like the front trim panels as it looks cleaner, but it also lowers the efficiency of the panels too since it will restrict some under panel cooling. But again, in your case you're aware of all of this and you're fine with it.
Speaking of rafters, I noticed a lot of flex as you're walking around in the video. With the extra weight of the panels, you might want to consider sistering those rafters.
Yeah. My first thought were...,where are the flashings?" Sure enough...no flashings. There's no way I would rely on just the sealant for that.
I had the same concerns too. These "flash-less" mounts were introduced around 2019 and, since then, more manufacturers are coming out with their own flash-less designs!
The amazing thing with TopSpeed is they even did away with the railing! That's a huge labor and cost saver especially with expensive freight for such long pieces.
Looking forward to seeing more video on these solar panels and the wiring to the EcoFlow system. Thanks for sharing.
You bet! Thanks for the support.
I appreciate your work. I am an architect. When I got started with solar, I looked long and hard to find a roof mount that provides a built-in boot so the fastener penetrating the weather barrier, the shingle in this case, would have a solid flashing that covers the penetrant. Long term I would not want a joint that offers only sealant. I don't care what type of sealant. I would REALLY not want a design that increased the number of fasteners and more holes like this. A solid flashing, a hood, a boot, that drains with the roof slope and can resist wind-blown rain is best. There are several designs that do this pretty well. Applying sealant to the penetrations UNDER the hood is just fine. Belt and suspenders. This is your ROOF. Water penetration is a great risk to buildings. 16 potential leak points per panel.
Rails are more expensive. This connecter is fast for DIY. OK. you did a good job telling about it and you want comments on the controversial part. You are a youtuber. Your numbers go up, and I am not a grouchy old guy with nothing better to do. Great. You may already have videos that cover these other type of boots.
One day the building gets reshingled and all this stuff will come off. It would be great to have a system that you could match up the same locations, shingle around your boots, and put it all back on again. Or maybe that is when you upgrade to a standing seam metal roof and do S5 clips.
Thanks for all the feedback. To be honest I would not put this type of system on my house but this unfinished open garage is a good test case so I can see if leaks start to form and share the information with the channel. I will continue to test different options and would love a large pole barn in the future with a standing seam roof 👍
I agree, We used Iron Ridge mounts that are flashed under the shingle above and bolted to the truss or rafter. Way more water tight and stronger. I would never mount to just the sheathing. Have videos of our install on our channel.
@@Off-Grid Yep, that's the one. Iron Ridge on shingle. Post Frame building with Standing seam and S5s is the way to go.
@@everydaysolarif you foot the bill on time and materials I'll volunteer my 40x60 pole barn 😂 I'm even in Illinois although not sure what part you're in.
Aluminum solar rails are SUPER cheap and easy to work with, I'll stick with them, and simple L-feet with rubber micro-flashing in rafters. I installed my own 5kW PV system this way, several years ago, and it's worked perfect, ever since.
Great setup. My thought on clamp layout would be to use one clamp on the end and then a clamp in between the next panel so its less clamps used. The clamp appears wide enough to bridge and clamp to two panels at once.
It won't be approved that way by the S.E.
Thanks for this video. This is really a breakthrough product if it really works. I'm amazed at the concept of these. The big hope of course is to bring down the cost of residential solar as labor is, by far, the most expensive component. Snap-n-Rack claims to half the labor time of solar installation with these, and it has a good shot at doing it from what I see.
Residential solar cost in US/Canada have the highest per watt residential rates (~$2.90/W versus ~$1.00/W in Australia). Big picture: that hinders the energy transition.
*Extra Water Protection*
What I might do is 3D print an inverted "V" shaped protector and use the M1 sealant on the protector just above each TopSpeed mount just as extra moisture insurance. That provides additional water protection that you can both _see clearly_ and _easily swap out_ if ever deteriorated years down the road. Such a protector is very easy to install and cheap.
The other thing not as easily tested is wind loading. Specs indicate:
90-180 mph Wind Loads
0-90 psf Snow Loads
That 180mph is well into Hurricane Cat-5 speeds so apparently can be used in Florida too.
Hardware mounting points for panels I thought rule of thirds come into play. That way the panels are evenly supported and can withstand forces like wind, deep snow or ice better. Also the panels can handle strong horizontal winds without being stressed as much. In our area, the sheer strength of the shorter lag bolts would come into play vs mounting into roof supports. Like to concept, but would need solid engineering analysis to see if they would work.
That's 16 roof penetrations per panel. We don't get snow loads here in the Arizona desert, but the sun dries out sealant super quick. I think they would have to be resealed every year or two because you're relying on that sealant.
Beside the regulation that you mentioned, I think that there are also regulation for leaving a walking path, like 3 feet wide, especially close to roof edges.
Yeah, good point I should have noted the ridge and edge walking path called out in most places for firefighters.
Looks nifty!. I don't see sealing as a significant problem if done correctly. Wind resistance may be perhaps. Permitting is the number one reason DIY sucks in many places however. Most people give up before getting past that.
Something to do before you do you own DIY solar panels on your roof. First check with your insurance company, have an insurance adjuster come out. He/she will be able to tell you if a DIY solar project will be covered on your insurance coverage. This is very important as your insurance company can and will say your solar panels are not covered on your insurance coverage.
Should not be a problem. And price is reasonable.
Good work thanks
You bet!
Thanks!
Thanks for the support Carl
That's great hardware..I prefer ground mount systems myself..I would caulk those brackets, around the heads of the lag bolts, and on the inside where they come through the rough..My ground mount is built from 2x4's, I built 2 carts on big wheels, each hold four 400 watt panels, so I can change the angle of the panels and move them to follow the sun, because I live in a valley in the Adirondack forest, so being able to change angles and move the panels is essential..And I have 4 stationary 400 watt panels..I traded in my old inverter in and got the new EG4 Luxpower 6000 XP and it runs my whole house easily, including my well pump, welder, Minisplit, microwave, induction cooktop, etc..Well the minisplit runs from it's own panels, during the day, anyhow..Of course I don't run more than 2 or 3 high draw items at a time, but haven't had any problems..I might add a 2nd 6000 XP, just to have an xtra in case one goes down, and to lesson the demand on the other..
Great video, so Thanks! Since I live in tornado alley, I've yet to decide whether to do a ground mount or roof mount, or perhaps a combination. I've been looking at different mounting systems and this one looks to be the least likely to hold up in high winds, until I saw the skirting. So, if this mounting system isn't more prone to roof leaks and can hold up in high winds, I think it's worth getting, especially on a garage or storage building.
>> Since I live in tornado alley, I've yet to decide whether to do a ground mount or roof mount, or perhaps a combination.
Nothing could handle a tornado... In your situation I think that I would only use ground mount,
unless you cannot find an area without shade from trees or other building.
We are also in Tornado Alley and used Iron Ridge Mounts that are flashed under the shingle above and screwed to the roof trusses/rafters. I just don't see the system in this video hold during a storm when it's only screwed to the roof sheathing. There are videos of our install on our channel.
Thanks, I'll check your channel out.@@Off-Grid
Yeah I wouldn't put all of my trust in a few blobs of sealant especially for a system that will be sitting on the roof of my home for the life of the roof. For me personally taking the extra time to properly find roof truss locations and doing a single lag per mount with fewer mounting points overall using a railing system seems like the play for a long term installation on a livable structure.
With say an Ironridge Flashfoot2 you have a single truss lag with a sealant sealed pilot hole underneath the flashing with a protective rail mounting cap that covers the lag connection keeping the entire penetration assembly covered from the elements.
Sure installing on a non-livable structure like a garage or shed then yes this system is perfect where you can more easily monitor water fastness. TopSpeed also allows you to be more creative with where you can mount your panels which is nice.
I could hit a number of things, but one issue I have is the skirt, that will be a leaf litter trap, and can be so bad as to be a fire hazard (in a wind blown fire situation)
Hey Scott--I am LOVING that you have a side channel for solar. I desperately want to have a solar set up but it's just so cost prohibitive. Would love to do a DIY set up, but I have a newer modern home and have a flat roof. Any insights for DIY on a flat roof? Maybe a next video ;)
Actually the home on this property has a flat membrane roof so I will be doing some projects on the flat roof most likely with a ballasted system and try some bi-facial panels to see if I can get a bit more with the sun reflecting off the white membrane. More to come 👍
@@everydaysolar YUSSSS!! i'm so excited to hear this! Thank you!
Hey Scott, I am looking for a controller that will take in voltage different sources. I would like to build my system to take in solar as the primary and wind as a back up so one charge controller will take care of both inputs. Have you done a video on this, or do you have a suggestion?
Glad I installed Ironridge. Are those mounts engineered calc'd for permitting. Are they secured to rafters. Do they have mounts for tile/concreter roof....
I would be very worried about leaks, even with tar or silicone.
Yeah, unfinished garage where I have extra shingles and easily can repair I feel fine but on my home I would be a bit concerned with all the holes. Thanks for the feedback.
When leaves and pine needles fall on your roof, is that skirt going to cause them to stack up? Rodent habitat.
It could, there is a pretty good sized gap but things could start stacking up over time.
I love the vid and info however Im not a fan of roof mounting solar panels unless its on a shed or uunfinished garage. I do believe roof mount systems will improve as what you show
Yeah, if possible I think ground mount is the ticket but for a number of us unfortunately the roof is the only reasonable option.
My solar installer just installed a new system using new mounting from Ironridge called HALO, it uses 6 lag screws if misses the trusts. It has adhesive pad on the bottom of this mount where the screws penetrate to shingles. This save half of the time for the installer to lay down the mount without finding the trusts. So far so good no leaking but is seem to be too many screws 3 inches penetrate the roof boards. My installers just put 6 screws on all of them even it they hit or miss the trusts. Worse is when you have to remove this racking for new shingles, you probably need new roof board also. But they still use the rails across the mounts. 4 mount/rack for each solar panel and I have 47 of them, that's 282 lag bolts holes.. Time will tell.
Interesting, thanks so much for the heads up. Looking at the product now. I am temped to just install a bunch of these on that detached roof and test them over the years to report back on which ones stay leak free.
My Dish satellite installer has been using this rubber sticky pad with lag screws thru it to mount the Dish brace 15 years ago and it is not leaking but when you removed it, it take a chunk of the shingle and leave a hole where the lag screw was. Pretty nasty to remove and patch it.
Would be nice to see summary of costs for the parts installed.
Nice video about a new type of panel mounting, although less options for nice cable management.
The sun seems to be behind you while it is morning (I assume), the panels are not in an ideal position for maximum production. Would the opposite roof side be better?
Yeah, these are on the East side of the roof and I would prefer the West to get a little more but there is shade that comes in on that side that would knock out the normal gains West has over East.
After many years with a poorly-designed roof, we finally had it modified and roofed properly, and have had 8 great years with absolutely no leaks. The one thing that stops me from adding solar is the roof mounting systems. Someone needs to manufacture and offer a no-holes-in-roof system, such as rails mounted to eaves, which will allow panels to be secure but not bolted through the roof. I may have to build my own...seems odd that after this many years, they haven't fixed the one glaring weakness of rooftop solar.
Hey bud, I've been learning from your videos for awhile now - awesome work by the way. I'm curious if you have a suggestion on how to manage the connection between (semi)permanently supplemental panels on a roof that may be used to feed one at a time of many (semi)portable battery banks inside the house.
For example, let's say I want to put roughly 600 - 800w panels on the roof, but I have multiple different battery banks (EcoFlow, Bluetti, etc) that I want to rotate/charge as needed. Let's assume the input values are generally the same so we're not worried about overloading anything. I'm not giving a specific voltage here because I'm still fingering out the best way...
Anything I need to be careful of? I noticed many connectors and battery banks have warnings of "do not connect/disconnect under load" ... which is where my question comes from. I ask because crawling up on the roof and throwing a tarp over the panels just to switch the sink load is, let's say, not convenient : )
Might be a good video topic, if you haven't already done it and I missed it.
Connect and re-connect at night
Put DC breakers inline.
IMO especially on a low pitch roof like this you want flashing mounts. k2 everflash, ironridge quickmount etc. You are relying on the mechanical seal first and sealant as a backup with flashing, where as this you are relying on sealant as the primary, which ofc expands/contracts, dries out over the years. Look at your current roof penetrations, they all rely on flashing. They aren't expensive either and it doesn't really make it any harder to install (besides finding the trusses or doing some blocking). On a high pitch roof this might be OK, but I don't know why all companies don't incorporate at least some level of flashing on their designs to go under at least 1 row of shingles.
So, does this only bite into the plywood rather than any framing? I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable with that, especially in a windy area.
Exactly, that is why there are so many lag screws at each mount.
Maybe not good for Hurricane areas but prob okay for IL
It’s engineered for that use case, they’ve got the structural engineering certifications on their website
Always depends on your ahj and state requirements. Some areas my company installs in, something like this has to be in a rafter regardless
It could just as easily go in a stud with some layout
Per NEC, if the solar panels are mounted to a building, Rapid Shutdown is required. It isn't waived depending on what you connect them to. The inverter may be portable, but you've made the panels fixed to the building, so it must meet NEC in most jurisdictions. There are some exceptions.
Agreed, I tried calling this out as I will be installing a system-level rapid shutdown since my area is still on 2014 and the panel level came in on the 2017 updates. Thanks for the feedback.
What are the exceptions?
@@alexborrego8051 Mount them on the ground, not a building.
From the land of Martin guitars down yonder in Berks PA USA 😍 Loving the concert tonight y'all Bravo ! ! !
Nice idea but I would never mount to just the roof sheathing. 7/16" OSB is not going to hold. I wouldn't even do it on 5/8" roof sheathing. Just not enough material to screw to.
I have 2 grid tie 550 watt panels which I put into my panel in the lower right double 20 amp breaker spot direct. Having trouble monitoring if it’s working correct. Any advice?
Great video thank you. Dumb question, do the panels have to go horizontal or can they go vertical?
They could go vertical, no problem 👍.
I think we should add silicon to the screw threads as well to ensure sealing.
If you fill up each pad as the lag is being driven it will pull through the sealant and should coat the threads fairly effectively. At least that is what I was seeing.
I love the low cost and simplicity, but this product puts a lot more holes in the roof than a rail system would.
Yeah, I have a similar concern and at least at this point am comfortable with this setup on an open detached garage. I will keep everyone posted on how this system holds up over the years.
Much prefer a dedicated ground mount or carport if you have the room, especially if clearing snow is a necessity.
I would agree 👍
How strong is this mounting without the rails to support the panels and distribute the load across the mount to the roof? Any testing on the winds speed?
Yeah Snap N Rack quotes these numbers for speed and snow load
90-180 mph Wind Loads
0-90 psf Snow Loads
Have you found any difference mounting panels HORIZONTAL like you did vs. mounting them vertically ?
Nope, all other things the same the orientation shouldn't change the power output.
Instead of biting into the rafters like traditional installs these are simply grabbing the plywood sheeting? Would it be safe in the wind and snow loads?
This is what Snap N Rack has in the performance specs for the Top Speed system
90-180 mph Wind Loads
0-90 psf Snow Loads
If I need 2 rows like this on the video and have a flat roof, can I have a 10º angle on the panels? how can I adjust it if the second row attaches to the same mount as the first row? or are these only for 0º
Lots of concerns about the holes and sealant, not sure why, you seal all sorts of stuff on a roof and if you install a metal roof all the screws are exposed with a seal on them. Anyways good tutorial on installation....my only question is if a bottom panel gets damaged can you replace without removing top row?
Yeah, the holes concern me as well. That is why I wanted to test these on an unfinished detached garage as compared to my home. You will be able to replace panels from the first row without removing top row but probably will have to remove that section of skirting.
Is it possible to get a list of parts you used? I'm going to be putting 6 panels on my shed also
242-10005 SNAPNRACK, TOPSPEED MOUNT 18
242-10011 SNAPNRACK, TOPSPEED CLAMP 2
232-02492 SNAPNRACK, UNIVERSAL LANDSCAPE SKIRT, 70IN, BLACK 3
232-02495 SNAPNRACK, RL UNIVERSAL, SKIRT SPACER, 35MM 8
232-01173 SNAPNRACK, SMART CLIP II 24
232-01176 SNAPNRACK, SMART CLIP XL 20
242-92202 SNAPNRACK, GROUND LUG 1
Smart Clips are optional for wire management as I just used zip ties.
Man that is a lot of holes going through all three layers of a watertight roof! Super simple, and I really like the look of skirts
That’s fine and dandy until your roof starts leaking from the wind catching and moving the panels up and down from underneath overtime then you have a 20g + roof replacement
We shall see, so far so good 👍
😊 You didn't edit out your pause and restart your sentence. Lol reminds me of me when I'm filming lol 7:20
Could i use these mounts on my camper conversion!? Ill be useing an eco flow ultra for my batteries and electrical system
1/2 inch osb doesn’t hold well.Must have big inside backers for bolts to grip.I’m not cutting my ceiling out for backers just yet.Even if yah hit a truss that’s only 1.5 inch.So only 1 bolt would hit it..First I ever seen those brackets
As long as you have used the plastic singles tha last over fifty years and have a sealed barrier below shingles then your good
How are you meeting the rapid shutdown requirements of
I wonder...would these work for doing just two panels in a line?
Also, what width of studs do you need? This looks like this needs a big stud.
These only need to attach to the plywood decking and that is why each one has 4 smaller lags as opposed to 1 larger lag that would go in your trusses. I also like the mini rails that I used on this roof mount czcams.com/video/0NM5CT_ygnc/video.html
@@everydaysolar Gotcha! Yeah I'm doing a line with 2 solar modules, and I think the TopSpeed would be overkill. Let me go watch that video you linked. Thanks for the reply!
What is everybody's outlook for the solar panel market in N.A. come 2024? And what is your favourite large cap solar company?
Seems like most incentives are still in place but this can vary state-to-state and utility-to-utility. Keeping this in mind I would expect Solar industry to keep pace but I don't have any insight on which company will benefit more than others when it comes to stock price. I am more of a real estate guy.
Cool concept, but I feel like a strong wind would rip the sheeting right off the roof.
They claim 90-180 mph and not sure what factor gets you 90 and what gets you 180. Most likely the decking thickness.
Looks like osb roof. Weak.No drywall means you can put plywood backers inside.Next time hit a truss n backers.And seal around those things not just under.
As someone who had a roof leak from a company that (I found out later) did not bolt to the roof trusses, I would never allow this to be done, terrible idea, plywood roof backing will never withstand weather and time
I think this is a very fast intallation but also the most expensive one cuz after few years you would need to replace you roof and you have to buy 18 of those if you have 8 panel… i got 22 panels and it would cost me about another $1000
Yeah, it is a bit pricey for a larger installation. What are you planning on going with for your install?
As a 60 year old I still have all that heavy lifting covered.
But bending the back fitting all those attaching mounts....I would be aching and back spasms for days.....maybe the price of thinking I could do anything when I was younger!!!!
I think we are were some level of invincible when we were younger 😂
I'm much happier with the iron ridge flashed feet i used for my diy solar install. Fewer penetrations, all into rafters, and less relience on sealant.
The rail systems also make great mounting points for microinverters and cable management.
Yeah, iron ridge makes good stuff and for my home I also have a flashing design but for detached garages/sheds I kind of like this option. Now lets see if we stay leak free 🤞
Image a leak in the middle of the rows of panels. Have fun removing all of those !
show the wireing
This video finished off the wiring for these 6 panels czcams.com/video/icBKYACja7Y/video.html
The state and utility are like Darth Vader, they can and likely will "alter the deal" if you're getting "too much of an advantage". Looking at California....
lot of lag in this video, but then I realized it was just the screws.
😂
So 4 of these for each panel. Seems too expensive for a large system
If you just do 1 panel it would be 4 but if you do multiple rows it will be a little better like 2 panels across 2 rows would be 6 mounts and 3 panels across 3 rows would be 8 mounts.
"Check out this video where I walk you through this exact setup.." No, the video you pointed at is an 8 month old video about wire sizes. Can you link the correct video continuing this setup?
I found it: czcams.com/video/icBKYACja7Y/video.html
Thanks for the heads up and here is that video 👍 czcams.com/video/icBKYACja7Y/video.html
I'll stick with Ironridge.
I want to use their BX Ballasted system for my flat roof. They make some quality products.
I don't think this would work for a home installation, especially in Florida with hurricane strengths wind. Not bolting into trusses would be a big 'no' for me, how about your house insurance? I don't think they would be OK with this either. We have a roof wind mitigation report done to get any insurance and I don't think the inspection would pass this. This is all besides the big risk of water intrusion through the bolts in the roof sheeting, even with caulking. That caulking wears very quickly in Florida, and you would probably need re-caulk every year to ensure a tight seal. If this is on a free standing garage or shed, maybe. But I don't think its worth the risk compared to the traditional rail system.
arning: Replace your shingle roof before you install solar panels, neighbors had solar panels installed two years ago, shingle roof had to be replaced this year, it cost them $11,500.00 to have the solar panels removed and installed again....
More lag bolts + not in solid wood = more failure points.
Personally I’d never put panels on an asphalt shingle roof. Just imagine what getting a new roof put on will cost. No thank you.
Yeah, it does seriously drive up labor if you are hiring it out.
Hard to believe these mounts are allowed by code. There will defiantly be water penetration, mold, and rotted sheathing as the extreme heat breaks down the sealant. These types of mounts are the reason many homeowners are having their homeowners insurance canceled about 5 years after installation. Hard metal traditional flashing is the only way to ensure no leaks for the life of the system. These are great for the installers but really bad for the customer.
Nope! Their is not one engineer, or experienced construction person that would go with this unless one bolt was in a truss. Not only that, without a counter flashing it will eventually leak due to expansion and contraction with heat and or ice.
I agree that many people wouldn't go with this type of mount but Snap N Rack isn't the only company which has a design which can be attached to only the decking. Iron Ridge also offers the Halo mount www.ironridge.com/component/halo-ultragrip/
Hopefully most are placing on a new roof. New panels on a 10 year plus roof makes no sense
4 lag bolts that close together will Split wood and 4 bolts is likely Way overkill
Your ladder shouldnt be where your array is at.
As long as the deck of roof is solid you should have no problem. Now, do you really know what condition it's in?
Screwing a bunch of holes in it you're bound to find out.
In my jurisdiction the local inspectors will not let you make penetrations without flashings. I've pulled over 200 permits and often work with roofing companies especially when the homeowner just paid for a brand new roof with a long term warranty. I tried something like this in the past and the roofer yelled at me and told me to get my ass off the job site because I did not use flashings. Also we are in the Highwind zone and I do not think you could ever get away with penetrating the decking only. Also I have run into many situations where the decking is old and not competent and you absolutely have to be secured into the roof truss. So you mount six panels Which requires 24 of these mounts and 96 penetrations. No disrespect but I think this is a horrible idea and you do take a serious risk of having a leak 5 to 10 years down the road. Also installers get lazy with the caulking and do you have a good chance of having leaks right out of the gate. Eco Flo delta's are for camping they are not residential power quality and good luck if they even last five years. Also this guy is clearly not pulling a permit because there is no rapid shut down devices. This is another video that is essentially showing people how to do things wrong and is a bit of a stain on the solar industry.
Thanks for all the feedback but not sure this type of video would be considered a "stain on the solar industry." I do agree with the rapid shut down need in the vast majority of areas. I am still on 2014 in my area so I can have the shutdown at the system level as opposed to the panel level. The way I approach these project is just to show "how I did it" and not to be mistaken as " how you should do it." Building and electrical codes will be different for all of us and each homeowner would need to take a lot of things into consideration if taking these type of projects on DIY. Looks like other major brands have a similar option, have you ever used or seen the Halo system by Iron Ridge? www.ironridge.com/component/halo-ultragrip/
@@everydaysolar OK, I understand your comments. Sorry about that. I didn't mean to be rude. I've been in the solar industry for 24 years and in my neck of the woods I would get my ass chewed out from a roofer if I was doing penetrations without flashings.
@@user-ke9yk5qp3u honestly I welcome the feedback. Keep it coming! 👍
Absolutely not. Relying on sealant rather than flashing?!?! Also, roof sheathing is often only 1/2 inch thick so it's laughable that the bolts are so long - it's almost as if they give you long bolts so you think you're getting a strong connection. I would expect those bolts to get ripped right out during the 60-70+ mph winds I get in my area every year.
I get those winds in Cheyenne Wyoming too!!!! Where are you?
I don't like it Don't rely on silicone. Black Jack take take that ladder. You're Standing On put it from top to bottom side to side. Mount panels on your ladder.😮 Take the load off The roof more on Walls of home
TOO MANY HOLES IN YOUR ROOF WITHOUT USING RAILS TO MINIMIZE
From my experience in the marine industry, ALL sealants eventually leak. And that is on a clean, smooth gel coat surfaces. Sealing on asphalt for long term will be next to impossible, especially the way you did it. Most of the sealant is sticking to the shingle grit, which is not integral with the asphalt shingle. That grit will release from the shingle at some point in its lifetime. As the asphalt shingles lose their volatile compounds, the shingles will shrink and crack. Wind and thermal loads will cause movement and flexing of the panels, and the mounts where they are lagged to the roof. All of these factors spell disaster for keeping the water out. Wet drywall would be the least of my worries. The roof decking will rot, and eventually the roof trusses. This will be an expensive repair once the inevitable happens.
I would never put a hole in my roof