Re-stringing methodology - for slotted headstock guitars
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- I have changed my method ! Yes, after many years of doing things one way, I have decided to modify my method taking some better aspect from other similar videos.
I have decided that with hex core strings (I use D'addario) there is no real harm in pre-cutting them, as long as you pre0cut them in the right place ! I have also included the string stretching method - not previously shown.
New methodology for re-stringing slotted headstock guitars.
Requirements :
• A well lit worktop - with protective cover - carpet or towel
• String winder (I use an electric screwdriver with “Stewmac” adaptor)
• String winder/bridge pin extractor/pincer (Planet Waves or similar)
• Small pair of pliers
• Neck support.
• Digital tuner
Methodology :
1. Lay guitar on work top (protected with carpet or towel)
2. Use neck support - with headstock over edge of worktop.
3. De-tension all strings and remove strings - use pliers as necessary
4. Remove strings from bridge - using bridge pin extractor
5. Dispose of strings safely
6. (Optional) Clean guitar as you prefer
7. (Optional) Check interior for dust, detritus, and loose struts etc.
8. Open new string pack , unwind and lay on worktop
9. Insert ALL strings into appropriate pin holes and secure with bridge pins
10. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
11. Check by feel or mirror (inside body) that all strings correctly set with barrels between bridgeplate and bridge pins
12. Pull strings gently but firmly to ensure securely held
13. Lay strings in a sheaf across the body and out of your way.
14. Set all tuning machines to suitable angle for barrel holes to accept strings
15. Take 1st and 6th strings (or on 12 string 1st and 6th course), and lay string straight across fretboard to headstock - CUT strings app. 1.5-2” longer than where string meets the tuner barrel
N.b. - I prefer to work from outside to in because I find it easier:
16. Using pliers make 90 degree kink in end of string - ¼” to ½” from end.
17. Using winder (screwdriver or manual) to wind on the two cut strings.
N.b. - For these two strings, I like to wind with initial wind “inside” then rest outside - so that string winds straight over nut.
18. Repeat with 2nd & 5th strings/course, cutting 1.5-2” longer than where string passes over appropriate barrels
N’b. - I wind 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th outside for first wind then inside for the rest - again, keeping strings as straight over the nut as possible.
This enables strings to be as straight as possible over nut - thereby causing less sideways tension, wear, and potential string capture.
19. Bring all to tune.
20. Grasp each string firmly and stretch slightly two or three times.
21. Retune.
July 2016.
NOTE: Pre-cutting round core strings is not a good idea! I use Hex core strings on all my instruments.
Oh thank the gods. Every time I look for something on slotted headstocks all I can find are classical guitar videos. Big help.
You are most welcome.
I've been changing guitar strings every month for 40+ years and thought I had it down. Your method for slot head guitars sure beats what I've been doing. It's neater, faster, and makes the next string change easier as well. Thanks for teaching this old dog a new trick!
Hi Cookiepuss, I got so tired of reading on various fora that string changing on slotheads were difficult that I did this one and some later versions. So glad it has, or will help you!
I want you to know that I love my new guitar! Oh, some background - I have been looking at a 12 fret/slot head at my local music store which had been sitting unappreciated for about the last four months. I have played it several times, I liked it but it didn't really speak to me. I watched your video concerning why they are for you and went back yesterday with a little more knowledge - bought it. Changed the strings this morning to my favorite set with the help of this video! It is speaking to me now! And I wanted to say thanks....checks in the mail :). People like you, are what makes CZcams wonderful.
Well, thank you sir! I'm a little overwhelmed, but delighted that I helped this matter along. Thank you for letting me know - of course, this is why I make these funny little videos. What is the guitar pray tell?
@@SillyMoustache It is a 1997 Washburn D34S. Solid woods - spruce top and mahogany back and sides. Supposedly, Made in the USA, but I can’t confirm that by the guitar or online… The guitar itself is in particularly good condition, it looks to have spent most of its life in its case in a closet. Oddly, the previous owner removed the pick guard, so there is a noticeable color difference where it was removed, but the finish is perfect - no signs of struggle. Obviously, that doesn’t effect the playability or sound of the guitar, which is just beautiful, and at my age I am more above character than perfection. As I said, I restrung it yesterday (with your guidance) with EJ16’s (my favorite strings) and I couldn’t be happier. I have a little CZcams page as well - I haven’t recorded anything in a while, but will try to put something up playing it soon - I will let you know. Thanks again. Signed, Bad Haircut (Cefdad)
@@SillyMoustache czcams.com/video/MroP6aT5y-Q/video.html
Thanks for this. I just acquired a resonator with a slotted headstock. Its been a long time since I've had a slotted headstock, and I needed a refresher. Well done.
Glad it helped!
This was recently bumped to the top in the AGF General Discussion forum. It'd been a while since I'd re strung my Pono.
Thank you kindly for taking your time making the video and the refresher!
I use this methodology as well on my Martin 000-17sm. The ONLY caveat that people should remember if they are going to cut the strings BEFORE stringing it up to tension is, if you are using ROUND core strings DO NOT cut the string before stringing it to tension. The round core wound strings will unravel on you! Strings like Cleartones are round core.
If you give them a nice hard bend (90deg or more) with pliers just before your cut, it's no big deal to cut them. I've done this on Sunbeans and Newtone MasterClass with no issue.
Thank you, I’ve just followed your instructions and restrung my Eastman E1P-Ltd-Cla, it was a doddle 😎.
Hi, that's great! It's lovely to know that I'm helping folk. Thanks.
This is an excellent video, thank you. Even though I have done this many times, I always like to review the inside/outside thing before I launch in. Well done and I like the humor too.
Hi Silly M!
Yesterday I restrung my Martin D35S for the first time in years. Thank you for the wonderful full-length, step by step instructions, humor, and your brief playing at the end. I got a little confused when winding the new strings and set them in the opposite directions. No problem, I can tune it quite well and the guitar sounds beautiful today. Now, I’m ready to play a bit each day, entertaining myself with my favorite Tom Paxton songs and many others. The challenge is to avoid those long stretches when the instrument remains in the case. Thanks once again!
Very Best, John H in Highland, NY USA.
Ah the D35-S - the guitar that changed my guitar playing life! I was shown one (by Isaac Guillory) and discovered that with the wider fretboard I could fret more clearly and faster.
My preference for winding the 1st and 6th strings from inside out is just "my style" to have them running as close to 90 degrees to the nut as possible. Others do it the other way.
So, I'm delighted that you found this of interest, and please have a look at my other videos of songs and chat and opinions about guitars. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for posting! You taught me a new way to string the slotted head. Well done!
It's always great toher that I've helped folks.
Martin guitar + pale ale. What's not to love?
9.09 - such a simple idea and yet so helpful.
Haha! Yup - probably was a pale ale, but it is a Collings guitar! Anyway, thanks for watching - hope it was of interest!
Haha Martin
Thank you, did it on my slotted head stock guitar, and it worked very well...and now my strings are straight from the nut:-)
Flott! Ser bedre ut?
@@SillyMoustache looks better and a easy way to do it...slotted can be a bit fiddlie, but not anymore:-)
@@simentemplar00 Hi, I'm delighted that you found my video useful!
Thank you so much for this video. I was putting off restringing my guitar in fear of hurting it somehow. It took me awhile but the job is done and it sounds much better. Thanks again!
Glad it helped! We'll done. It'll be even easier next time.
Thank you ever so much for this video. Brilliant step by step instructions that are clear and simple to follow. Great job.
You're very welcome! I'm delighted to get feedback, Thanks!
Thanks for this. Clearest video I've found.
Glad to be of service!
Thank you for the clear and thorough instructions!
I'm glad you found it useful! (My work is done!)
Thanks... I should be picking up my first ever slothead tomorrow... I read a little about restringing on acousticguitarforum, and then came over to youtube to see someone do it as well and who did I see right off but Silly Moustache!
Hi, hope you found it useful!
Silly- I just discovered your channel and watched a few videos. I enjoyed your content and learned a new way to string my slot head martin. Well done Sir, and thank you from across the pond
Welcome aboard! Please consider subscribing. - I do not monetize my channel in any way.
Subed, the show goes on!
Thank you for your helpful video.
Some folks like to bend the cut end of the wire
around the main part of the string and then wind over it.
That works fine, for nylon strings, but not for steel. (BTDT) (or tried)
This method makes so much more sense, because it is the same way you wind
a solid peghead, just turned sideways.
As you, I like to capture the cut end between two windings. (paranoia)
I have never cut my string first and since I am doing some work on a 12 string, going
through several sets of strings, this will save me a lot of headache.
So, thanks again.
PS: The "real time", here, was very helpful.
Hi, I'm always delighted when I hear frm someone that my videos have proven useful. Thanks, and btw - love the picture of Alfred E Newman!
@@SillyMoustache
I used to use Bill the cat, from the Bloom County, Outland and Opus comic strips.
Then, just a couple years ago, I ran across some pics of Alfred and thought "Oh, yeah! That's my man!".
As a 60's teen, he was my hero. Giving a big "Up yours!" to all of society. (and still is)
Mad Magazine, in the 60s was the Best.
Very nice video. I need to do that checking part to be sure the ball ends are seated properly. 👍
Thanks Blueser, I got that relatively recently from my tech. apparently they are supposed to be seated as if they were wheels running along the string direction and not sideways ..who knew?
Silly Moustache I will be checking all my acoustics today. 👍 See you on the AGF! 🎸
@@blueser100 Thanks Blueser100 - as long as I'm not banned on the AGF! (They do that a lot)
Silly Moustache LOL. I got banned from the Fender Forum. That’s enough for me!
I know this is an old video, but it's by far the best I found after investing in my first slotted headstock 12 fretter (something I should have done years ago I now realise) and wanting very much not to make a mess of it or scratch up the headstock first time out. Thank you for taking the time to go through so carefully and thoroughly and explain every step. Everything you say makes perfect sense and will therefore be my method from hereon. All too often this kind of video goes way too fast, almost as if they assume you already know what to do, which of course totally defeats the purpose. Subscribed - it's the least I can do by way of thanks, and I can see plenty of interesting content on the channel. Now I can go and restring my guitar!
Hi, thanks for writing - here's a later versio with some more detail. czcams.com/video/6tU3OkoBMkE/video.html
Great vid. In my kit I keep a bridge pin holder made out of an old belt to keep the bridge pins in the same position.
Cool, thanks.
Stacheo - I'm a bit more "tight" when it comes to this process. I ensure each pin goes back into the same hole. Have engraved each just in case. I figure they have become accustomed to the fit, as each position is fractionally different. It's just me, but I soon "loosen up" with a wee dram. I
Hi Quigley, I used to have a beautiful Bourgeois which has numbered bridge pins. All My Collings came with ebony pins which I changed over to bone, simply for aesthetic reasons. All the pin holes are identical.
Brilliant "Silly Moustache" from UK via INDIA.... Now all I need is to learn how to play like you.... Regards to your Cat 🙏
Hi Carl, thanks for watching - I hope this helped. I have made some videos explaining my playing style - not so clever really - just a matter of technique. Sadly that cat died in April 2017 as I was starting my cancer treatment. He was a great old pal and sadly missed. Due to my health issues we hadn't sought a replacement ... until last week! Keep watching my videos, and as soon as he is settled in, he'll probably feature in a new video, so please keep watching!
@@SillyMoustache ...yes will keep watching my friend and look forward to seeing the new addition... Hope your feeling better yourself and having such a great sense of humour is also a fine Medicine in Life 🙏
Thanks Carl.
@@SillyMoustache S M im late to the party. So very sorry about your cat. I'm 62 and my wife and I love our cat and have lost pets before. They are indeed family members no doubt!
Also, hope you get well soon too!
From a fellow musician from Austin Texas home of Collings guitars! You and yours ever come to Austin you have a place to stay and will play music together.
Take care!
@@steveb9325 Hi Steve, That's a wonderful offer! In 2004, at the request of many frinds who were on 2yahoo-lists relating to Towned Van Zandt and Guy Clark, my wife and I visited Texas. We landed in DFW and stayed for a while with two folks and then driove down to Texas to visit with a frind their, then onto Alpine to say with a wonderful couple, then back to DFW to visit with even more folks. It was a busy two weeks and we found the Texan hospitality overwhelming ...in a good way!
the following year we frlwe into San Francisco and stayed with a frind theire, then in Sacramento, then drove to Sata Fe staying with yet more then back to Alipine, Mexico, (Ocinaja) then back to DFW. Lovely folks all.
This is such a fun video - taking the fear out of restringing a slotted headstock! I tried restringing my Alvarez parlour for the first time and it didn't go smoothly... it's the point I start winding where I seem to come unstuck, I'm not sure how to guide the string properly as I turn the peg (manually, which is bound to be more fiddly!). Anyway, next time I restring it I'll pour myself a big glass of wine (not an ale fan!) and try to relax and enjoy the process as you do here! 😊
I'm delighted that you found the vid useful. After you have bent the end of the string about 1/2" in, and then you can guide the string over the capstan with your right hand whilst winding with the right.You'll get the knack!
I never knew the bottom of the string winder was designed to pop out the pegs! Man, I've been missing out. :D
Yes, far better then using pliers.
@@TELE6220 Huh?
Simple and sweet. Thanks brother!
So glad this video helped you - that was the point of my making it.
Thank you very much, this video is incredibly helpful!
Thanks . then - my life has not been in vain! ... and "anon" you wrote some great songs!
Two things I was taught by a rock star famous luthier whose name I shall not drop. Not slotted head specific. 1) Do 1 string at a time to avoid any change in the neck tension. 2) Use graphite to lube the nut channels. ( a pencil sharpened longer than normal will do). Thanks for the video. Cheers
Restringing one at a time might have been valid n the time of cheaper instruments with floating bridges such as archtops, and/or without neck re-enforcements like truss rods etc., but is very outdated now. Graphite in saddle slots can indeed help if the strings are sticking but best to have the slots cut properly to run the string cleanly over the slot. Thanks for your input.
Yes. I agree. Replace one string at a time. Keeps tension on neck and also permits tuning the new string using the adjacent old string. Seems logical.
@@billleung956 . Especially with older instruments, something that Mr Moustache has not fathomed wanting only to expound his knowledge..or lack thereof
Very thoughtful and clear.... however, I ALWAYS put the exact peg back from the same hole from which it came, but that's just me.
I once had a bourgeois and the pins were numbered to ensure this, but on Collings the holes are identical as are the (non original) pins - so it isn't an issue.
Thanks for this video. I just changed my first slothead!
Hi, thanks for letting me know! It's great to hear that my humble videos have been helpful!
Just got my fist slotted head, Patrick James Eggle Etowah spruce/ebony. This is a very informative video. Thanks. Next need to work out how to adjust the truss rod
Are you sure it needs to be adjusted? If you ned advice you can contact Patrick for advice.
@@SillyMoustache Yes, there was a definite bend. I contacted Pat and he said I needed a 3/8" socket. It is done now, but the blasted socket is stuck on the rod as the extension came out. Will try a long nose pliers to wiggle it off. Or leave it there . :-) Not much room in there as it is 000 size. Thanks.
When I took the 1st and 2nd strings off they had been put through the hole and then looped back into the hole before being cut. Needed small nose pliers to get the end out. Anyone do this or come across this practice? Any benefit?
this was very helpful for my new slotted guitar,,,, and funny lol
Hi Rusty, I do my best - thanks for watching!
Thank you, very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, all my guitars have solid headstocks, but I'm interested in an electro-acoustic Taylor that has a slotted headstock and your video explained a lot to me.
Thanks for watching.
All well and good! Like the idea of the "kink". I have a history of being able to kill uncoated strings just by putting them on, so I use exclusively Elixir Nanoweb coated strings. My preference! I just had a bridge plate repair done and learned that, for 50 + years, I was installing the string incorrectly into the bridge. Just stick 'em in the holes, I thought! NO! The ball end is there for 2 reasons. 1, of course, is to go into the pinhole on the bridge, and 2, to allow the string to make proper contact with the bridge plate. However, if you turn the string so the ball would ride down the slot in the pin (even an unslotted pin needs to have this protection), this would allow the ball end to enter the bridge plate so it wouldn't be seated with that ball end SIDEWAYS. This can create a whole lot of damage over the years and can allow more of the string to come out and reach the saddle, making for not so good tone. To ensure that you have no problems, make your ball end kink so the ball will "roll" in the bridge and not end up sideways against the bridge plate. Bridge plate repairs can run from a $6.oo brass insert (SteMaC) to provide a once again solid surface for the ball end to seat on, up to
$125-175 bridge plate repair or replacement. Taking the precaution of turning the ball and bending the string so the ball creates a kind of right angle with the ball pointing toward the bottom and the neck instead of just being in the pinhole. Martin, Bourgeois, Collings, Santa Cruz, are all fine, high-end guitars and deserve little care tips like these. Prior to switching to Elixir strings in 2005, and sticking with them ever since, ANY string would do. I could get, for example, GHS Pro Formula 80/20 bronze by the dozen, but would have to change them immediately after each show, taking much of the time between shows. Back in the day, we would start at 9 and go until 4 in the morning, doing 3-4 shows a piece on a two act bill. One of the cheaper strings back then, a Dozen could be gotten for under $40! Just another story from the road! Carry on!
Hi Norm, I have no idea why CZcams has only just shown me your comments. Thanks for the info - I had a bridge plate failure in concert on a Martin 12 string some years ago, and couldn't work out what had gone wrong for a while. I am told by my last tech that the string barrels should run along the same lines as the string, so I carefully do that - I hope I got it right! Thanks for making contact.
Can you please explain to me more about what you guys mean here? "string barrels run along same line as the string" - i want to do this right. thanks...
@@kevinpricelarson Hi, I only learnt this from my last tech a short while ago (in th last couple of years. He told me that the barrel of the string should sit in te pinhole in tre same position as the strings run, so, for instance if thy were wheels they would roll along the string. I beieve that this is recommnded for two reasons - 1. It ensured that the barrel sits in e csame place against the bridge plate and pin, and that they DON'T risk catching on the end of the pin -which can pull the pin out - that has certainly happened to me in he past, sometimes dramatically. So at it why I recommend that the barrel runs "north to south" -I hope this helps.
Silly Moustache so on its side, not upright? Thanks
@@kevinpricelarson Sorry, what?
Thanks Andy!
Glad you found it useful.
Thanks! A very pleasant video. And useful too :)
The only thing better than the instruction in this video is the cat!!!!
Sadly, Rupert is no longer with us. A great loss. Thanks for watching.
Loved the video!
Thanks, glad you found it useful!
Thanks a lot! It worked out great!
Strings don't "stretch" , Andy, as well you should know if you have read Fazool's posts on the AGF.
What happens is that the slack in the windings tightens up as you pull on the string, and the more you pull, the more the slack tightens, and the more stable the tuning becomes, but there is no metallurgical or "molecular" deformation in the string itself.
Ok Murmac, thanks for the correction.
Thanks for the video, silly Moustache! I particularly liked how you checked the balls were in the right place before you restring the guitar. Any reason you cut the strings before restringing (as opposed to afterwards)? Guitar sounds great. Seemed the cat enjoyed the new methodology too ;)
Hi Bob, Thanks for your question, re cutting the strings. I have worked out just how much string I need to wind to get a nice orderly number of winds around each barrel. After I cut the string, I make a right angle bend in it to fit into the hole in the capstan. Uncut strings flailing around are both potentially dangerous and simply get in the way. Ah, my old pal Blitzen the Burmese cat, sadly no longer with us. Thanks for watching.
@@SillyMoustache Thanks for the kind reply. Good to know re the strings and sorry to hear about the cat.
@@guitarwithbob You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Any thoughts if this is suitable for Roundcore strings ?
Round core strings should not be cut until they are secured on the capstan of the tuning machines.
Thanks for this, I just completed a string change on my S&P all solid mahogany and this made things much easier. Have you any hints on re-stringing a nylon strung guitar? Did not see a video in your collection, unless I missed it.
Hi, I'm so glad that you found the video useful. I'm 9almost0ashamed to say that I don't possess a nylon strung guitar - sorry,
Hi Andy, another great video. What’s your take on restringing resonators with slotted headstocks?
Hi, My National Estralita resonator has a slotted headstock but with noticeably thinner slots, which is more challenging, and, of course a tailpiece. So headstock wise -the same as on this video, (but less string to the capstan), and the tailpiece is the top loading type so I drop the barrels into the holes and them place some adhesive tape over them to keep them secure whilst I wind to tension.
Silly Moustache thanks Andy. I’ve tried various methods but change one string at a time to prevent the set up and cone position moving which can cause buzzes etc. A real pain l know but necessary in my experience.
@@slidefever Hi Chris, I have no fear about taking all strings off - I\ve never had a major issue with a buzzing cone on a National, but I keep a small screwdriver in the case of my Dobro to nudge the spider in the case of any noises I don't care for!
1:51 CAT!
Yup, that was Blitzen, a great character - who sadly passed in 2017.
Very good. Only marred by background music . . . .aaaarghhh
I'm sorry that you didn't enjoy Dave Grisman and Tony Rice. String changing is a bit of a ritual with me, and I like to do it with some nice music and usually a nice beverage. That's my style. Why not submit a video in your style for us to see?
Sorry I should have clarified. No issue with the music as such. Just found it jarred eventually when you were tuning etc. A small thing in the scheme of things. Thanks for taking time to share your thoughts and knowledge always worth a listen.
that guitar gives me wood. "I'm a musician, so I don't have any money." As you string a multi-thousand € guitar, lol.
Hi, maybe I don't have any money because I bought my guitars! Remember that I'm very old and have been accumulating my guitars over many years of trading up and dong without other stuff. (No wine, women and song) Well just a little wine, my wife and, OK, lots of song! Thanks for watching!
Uh-huh. I'm almost 60, myself. I tried a 2nd hand Martin 000-17SM, but sent it back. There was nothing special about it, and the shop and I had different interpretations of 'near mint.' Ended up with a Martin dread, 16GT. Not in the league of your guitars, but it plays and sounds great. Your vid on stringing slothead guitars was helpful when I changed the strings on it,though. Merry Christmas, and a Happy and healthy New Year!