One of my favorite chronograph designs of all time and this new collection does a lot of things right (I'd chase the civilian model if given the chance) But there have also been a few questionable design choices. My take: Breguet could have looked closer at the Only Watch 2019 and 2021 models and used those as reference points to evolve this collection. What are your thoughts?
I tend to be a purist wanting reissues in a 1:1 format. I prefer the historical accuracy over modern interpretations. That being said, these watches look really good but the prices are a definite deal breaker. There are far too many excellent watches out there for less cost. Thank you for the video!🥃
@@alvinmick218 That 2019 Only Watch had us all clamouring for these and they could've been so easily followed up on BUT alas, they've missed out on some of the finer details to really push these over the edge. A pleasure to share these as always Alvin 🥃
I now own one of these new Breguet Type XX Civilian Chronographs. It has everything I was looking for - 60 hr power so I am not always winding it - 5Hz (it keeps PERFECT time) - sapphire back (if I am going to pay big $'s, then I want to see the movement) - 100m water resistance (I don't want to have to worry/think about it when I am around water) - a minute sub dial I can easily see - and a plain numbered bezel that is not a tachymeter so I can time one thing with the bezel and another with the stop watch function. I had never used a flyback before - it is fantastic, and now I will never buy another chronograph without it. Please let me know of another watch that has all these features. Now about the date. Please note that the date numbers are 2/3 - 3/4 the size of the hour numbers. After a brief time the date seems to melt into the background, and I don't even notice it's there. Thanks for the opportunity to comment.
Hey Buddy, A great review of this watch, and I agree with you completely. I waited with much anticipation for this release and was extremely disappointed with the date window. That said, other reviewers have hinted that this is just the first in a line of releases and that a no-date version is in the works. If you have time, let's chat tomorrow, so let me know a good time to call.
Excellent discussion and review. I appreciated learning about the design and history of this style of watch. For me, the Longines Big Eye is the clear choice here. Breguet is offering far less value in this watch than some of their other more innovative and engineered pieces. I hope IDGuy you are enjoying the Longines and wearing it in good health!
Brilliant video. I love the type XX and the variations offered. I agree that Bregeut may have missed the mark on many of the small details. After all, it's these details that emphasize the perfection in design or at least IMHO. Cheers Mate
As you could probably tell, I'm a diehard for these models... and absolutely right, it's those tiny things that make the impact. Not having a cross through the "T", having a Big Eye on the dial of the military model. Just spices it up nicely and says to the enthusiast "we know what we're doing" 😉 Thank you Craig 🥃
Less than a year ago, I was looking at Breguet watches at one of my dealers. They showed me the Type XX available at that time. I remember that I saw a standard version for around 12k€ and a limited edition at around 15k€. I didn't go for one because my eyes don't like chronographs anymore, but I saw and eventually bought a Breguet Classique with a beautiful white enamel dial. Now, the prices of the new Type XX seem to have increased 50% with this new series and I still don't look at chronographs.
Breguet classique’s & traditional’s are something else! Great call on picking one Calvin. A close friend of mine is eyeing a white enamel dial model too! Don’t really know what they can do with their chronographs to remedy how people see them at this stage. Some of their classic pieces are gorgeous though 😉🥃
Although competing in another league I always preferred the Longines Big Eye over the Type 20. Your video is informative and design-critical as always, much appreciated. Your version is much better indeed.
It’s always a pleasure to share these Cedar. And we always have an eye for the more quirky stuff (like the Nivada Chronomaster) 😉 Hope you’re having a great weekend sir! 🥃
Dear Mr IDGuy, another condensed info packed video, thank you sir. I can’t get past the value of these, no matter where this one sits in the hierarchy. Appreciate Breguet, absolutely I do. ❤
Really appreciate it Harry. That would always be my aim when making these sorts of watches. If it's not ideal (like an original) or if something is "off" about it, it would drive me crazy 😉 I'm looking forward to coming up with some ideas for next years Milgauss (70th anniversary) 🔥
@@ID-Guy yeah, the original timepieces these are based on didn’t have a date window I believe. I know Breguet wanted to show off there new chronograph movement, which has that obligatory date complication. Still, this would of been a lot nicer without it. As your version shows.
Yeah, I like date complications, but I’ve always disliked the execution at the 4:30 position. If Breguet insist on keeping it there, I wish they would make it vertically aligned similar to how Glashuette Original execute it.
Yeah the big eye already fills that space so to go cram something else in there just makes it too asymmetrical. Without the date it’s an strangely attractive quark with the date it’s a cluttered mess
Another concise and complete watch design distillation. I am a fan of chronographs (don't own one), and I agree with you that the date complication complicates the dial. These two watches would have been better served with no date complication. The majority of watch wearers carry a phone - let that system tell you the date. Let a watch do its job - simply tell the time or elapsed time of an event. I am in your court with the Longines BigEye. It hits the mark by being smaller case diameter and better priced. As always, thanks for the review, and my one watch search continues.
Detailed video and appreciate it. However there are a some areas u got it wrong. 1) Type 20 is Military & Type XX is Civilian, not the other way around. 2) This release isn't an reissue or reedition, it was never the direction from Breguet. 3) Breguet's spirit was always to innovate, be it technical or functionality. Which is why, newer and patented movement and with a functional date. Lastly IMO, Longines is a great watch. But it is not a Breguet, period. If purely on technical, a Tissot Powermatic wouldn't be a far cry from Rolex's 3 hands calibre. Overall a nicely done review and i learnt new stuff today, cheers!
Very thoughtful and dare I say caring review. Not being as careful a student of the Type XX, I find particularly the military version stunning and Breguet’s history with this watch very compelling.
Agree on date. Imho, all chronographs should simply ditch the date complication altogether! And all subdials should be of equal size so as to not to cut off some numbers. The Speedmaster Moonwatch & Rolex Daytona are the best Chronos imho for these reasons.
I do enjoy the whole "balancing act" of fitting numerals and sub-dials together and making them work harmoniously. Like the Breitling 765 AVI. They killed it with that watch... BUT man... the date window looks so heavy on these 🥃
Thank you for pointing this out to me! I have no idea how they've managed to get the chronograph to start so smoothly without stutter. I always believed that it's normally a clear indicator that the movement is vertical and not lateral. Every day is a school day 😉🥃
@@samgrant83 Thank you for this brother. Crazy how difficult it is to find info on these references. I guess because it's a fairly old piece (and movement) a lot of the background hasn't been as well documented online (forums etc) 🥃 Man, but they've build a killer chronograph. Tough as nails!
I don’t agree with a lot of your opinions often but I agree with most of this video. I do have to say that the t-cross on the new dial I understand why breguet did it. It’s a new era for the company and a new look this model.
The Hanhart 417 1954 flyback is by far the best value for money and best design imo. The build quality is unmatched for prices 2x the actual cost, and since they took all the design cues for the type 20’s that followed there basically homages to the Hanhart.
I agree, their new flybacks look killer. Such a great size and balanced dial to match. It's getting to a stage where these reissue brands are squashing the big names when it comes to quality & attention to detail 🥃
I think you are spot on about the mint green lume on the new military. My eye tends to fall more toward the Civilian model. The date is a true head scratcher for me. It just looks out of place and ruins the symmetry of the dial. I love these new Type XXs, but not at this price point. I had to chuckle as I just picked up a Longines Big Eye chronograph in steel and love it. The Big Eye is just an underrated watch and such value for the money.
It's a pity that the didn't scrutinise every detail and smash this collection. And you're right, incredibly underrate (even after 6-7 years) They are build like tanks and their movement's are bulletproof! 🥃
This just solidified in my mind how good the Breitling 765 AVI is. Not only is the inspiration for the Type XX but it kind of is a value proposition at 1/3 of the price, and you only lose the flyback function. Breguet keeps making mistakes and they're inching closer and closer to Jaquet Droz, which is a pity.
So many good inspirations out there and to think this is THE watch that represents the Type XX in watch culture. Some real odd choices all round (and the 765 AVI... I was close to picking up one... and it's constantly pulling me back 😉)
I like the date and it’s position. I don’t like Swiss made. Also I would like the dates straight (ie: vertical) not canted over. Great Review as always Well Done.
Nice review for a new Type 20/XX since it answers the "what's next" question. Love the current Type XXI with all it's idiosyncrasies, non-hacking, cam operated chrono, fauxtina, etc. This new model in both military and civilian guises I think holds true to Breguet's vision of history brought into the now. There's a column wheel and vertical clutch...does it hack too? I think I missed if it does. I like it still date window and all, and prefer the civilian version. Great point about the Longines Big Eye, it's still punching well above it's weight class and it and the Hanhart 417, among few others, show that great design isn't always about high cost.
I have to agree with your thoughts IDGuy. As an owner of the stainless steel Longines Big Eye I'm unlikely to be in the market for an 'upgrade' any time soon. OK the Longines is not a flyback but they have release a flyback chronograph in the Spirit collection, a watch that I would consider if I could justify it.
It's definitely no coincidence that Longines gave us a Flyback a few months ago AND that both brands are a part of Swatch. There has to be a lot of sharing going on in the background 😉 Hope you're having a fantastic weekend Anthony!
@@ID-Guy I do think members of the Swatch group do share some things. The BigEye looks like it shares it's Valjoux 7753 base modifications with the old Omega 3330 sans the George Daniels coaxial escapement but keeps the column wheel. I think Longines took the first step with the L688 modification then Omega added the Coaxial bits later. Oddly I still can't find clarification on lateral or vertical clutch on the Longines L688 as I think it's still lateral on the Omega 3330. Odd I know but I have plenty of other things to loose sleep over than the clutch. Enjoy the rest of the weekend.
The "vanished" hands, are those the hands on the civilian? In full agreement, they look fantastic!! No idea why others are critiquing them. They make the watch so much more special 🥃
I've been hanging out for these..! But now they're here, I'm slightly underwhelmed. I think seeing them in the metal will be very important, as will examining more details about the movement as they surface. And there are some fantastic design wins here. Re price, with the Longines Avi BigEye and the Pioneer Ti, you could have a very close approximation of both watches for £5k... But that's not really the point - you could have a Hydoconquest for under 1/10th of a FF! HH costs and a ground-up auto flyback from Breguet really had to cost £15k++... But the design, I agree with you: some hits and one obvious miss! I was very intrigued by your T20 date solution...clever. I prefer the TXX and do like a bit of mint lume, but that date is a bit challenging (and I normally like a 4.30 date). No date, a bit smaller and I'd have been down to my AD. As it is, a bit of a suck it and see...
I also feel like I should be going mad for these... been lusting after the Only Watch 2019 model ever since it launched BUT now that these have arrived and aren't 100%... it's quite a let down, right? And the prices... it's getting mad today. I have no idea where the justification for these prices come from (besides a brand name) But hey 😆🥃
This will be interesting..... (Explorer update, I'm really considering the 114270 instead of the new one man... what do you think? Yes there is no anti reflective coating, and yes no lume on the numerals and yes, an older 3130 movement But i really find the dial more elegant, the case is a little thinner and bracelet is lighter with 5 micro adjust holes on the thinner clasp... i find it very charming.. and 20mm bracelet is more substantial on wrist. Maybe not as elegant as the new one, and hollow centre links but that seems to have it's own character...its lighter and more tool looking And the fact that it's discontinued means i can take my time and buy one when I've saved up, instead of being under pressure if the AD call me too soon)
It's such a tough call. On one hand, I've been eyeing the 14270 (birth year) but then I can't get around that I'll be paying "modern" watch prices for a stamped clasp, hollow links, older movement and all the rest. Plus the hassle of not knowing if or how many times it had been polished in its life... if parts have been replaced... heaven forbid, a dial / handset has been replaced! My head says, going with the modern watch, brand new, minty fresh and wearing the snot out of it (check out "timemycollection" on instagram) He was a diehard Seamaster 1957 owner and wore it for years (more than me) after buying the 124270, it's all he wears. He's basically sold his entire collection, Seamaster included! Something about making those memories with one watch and knowing that it can take a beating that always gets me. BUT maybe it's just me 😉
@@ID-Guy thank you so much man. That genuinely helps me....(although I probably need actual therapy)... Some of my doubts have been similar to yours - a watch that may be around 20 years old. Who knows how many times it's been dropped onto concrete and been bashed about. The new one would start the journey with me, and nobody else..... I've struggled with vintage watches in the past, so maybe my one and only rolex SHOULD be brand new, and I can add battle scars over the years to come Damn you man ha ha, now the new one seems to make even more sense I will decide when that AD call, and after I've tried it on.... I may have to finance around half the cost.... that's the other thing
@@Valera_Scotland If you want my 2 cents on the matter (and it's definitely strongly opinionated) - I'd never finance a watch. Just purely because we have so many other expenses to deal with - it's a killer to have that hanging over your head. Taking everything into account, I'd recommend you grabbing a BB54 (cliche) It's astounding how well they nailed this watch AND it's still not getting the respect it deserves. The movement is brand spanking new (updated after the Pelagos FXD) 70hr PR, 11mm's thick, gorgeous proportions, excellent lume, gilt dial (for those times when the light hits it just right) + it has a 60 minute bezel, so you can use it to time anything as well as having that vintage feel and simple dial to fall back on. Let's not forget the micro-adjusting clasp. You never feel like you're wearing a "bank" on your wrist and you can simply just enjoy it... Mine's been with me in the sun, BBQing, washing the car, exercising and it NEVER feels out of place or oversized. The biggest bonus of all... it's basically half the price of an Explorer AND you can buy it when you want 😉
@@ID-Guy that's brilliant man. It's already in my "top 5" list, so I'm keeping it as an option I need to try that thing on.. seems like a perfect watch really And you're obviously right about financing.... I'm just struggling to save up any money in this climate, so it may be a better idea to be patient and pay off my old credit card and loans first (yes I'm that idiot who wants a nice watch even though I have debt)
@@Valera_Scotland and @IDGuy - Gents I love this entire conversation. I am on an AD's list for a 36mm Explorer 124270 in stainless. It would be my one watch. However, the BB54 is also of high interest. A bit more versatile, and the size is PERFECTION. Plus nearly half the price of the Explorer. It may be time to fish rather than cut bait.
Thanks for the video. Watches like your "Big Eye" and the Hanhart Flyback Chronos are worthy comparisons, but I'm also thinking of the Airain (one of the originals) which also makes the Breguet look very pricy. I think I'd go that way if I was going to buy a type 20. Again it has differences to the original spec which can grate on the purist. There's a lot of prestige in the Breguet name and if you want that you must pay. I doubt they'll have trouble selling this pair.
There have been a few remarks on the Arain, and I agree, a gem of a chrono. That limited edition Grey varient that they dropped last year if I remember... what a gem! But all that said, Breguet is Breguet and that name will make the difference when it comes down to it 🥃
1:18 that was initial thought as well. They really f* it up. The worst part beside the design? Price... It looks like I'll be getting new Zenith Pilot Chrono.
The game plan is laid out on the table, all carefully organised, neat & tidy... but they decided to move across to the empty table and start again 😆 Great shout on the Zenith Pilot! The only brand actually allowed to put "pilot" on their dials? Legends 🥃
At the price demanded, I would at the very least expect Breguet-level finishing on the movement, yet it's utilitarian at best. If you're interested in a Type XX style, the Longine Avigation Big Eye or other brands are a much better deal, particularly as the cache of Breguet is not nearly what it used to be due to Swatch. I can see why they discontinued the Type XXI and XXII models, they are better looking and a better value in comparison (I will miss the 3817).
On the tri-compax new Type XX, the date can be placed at the 6 o'clock position like the recently retired Type XXI 3817. That's better than placing the date at the 3 o'clock position.
I am disappointed with these types xxs. I love the 3800s so much but didn't have enough money to buy one at the time. When I had enough they were discontinued. I wish they just updated the bracelet, clasp with microadjustments and the movement. That's all they needed to do.
They will remove the date while making it limited edition. The date was in the ideal place but the no date is most ideal. Makes me wonder if watches should start putting swiss made on more obscure places on the dial like right on the edge of the dial.
Price and date window are strange. I do like the civilian look but the price puts it up with the big boys and I’m afraid it will lose out. Thx for another great video.
A pleasure to share these Mark. The prices of these models, man... it just feels unrealistic. Alas, some great forward steps BUT equal number of steps backwards 🥃
Nice. But, they missed the perfect mark with sone of the details and, frankyl, I'd be happier with a modern Hanhart flyback chronograph of similar style at well under $3k.
Great shout! They have made some beauties! The grey dial Furtivite was SUCH a gem! A real pity that these haven't become a mainstay.. but are limited 🥃
I agree, the Civvy has that "busy-ness" factor going for it which helps with the date integration... but the Military... It goes from clean to "all over the place" in a matter of seconds 😆
Very informative video, but the date s a No No for me. I just purchased a brand new last piece from my dealer Breitling AVI Ref 765 "Co-Pilot re-edition which is a bit smaller, thinner and hand wound fitted with the B09 caliber true to size and feel of the 1953 original which came before the Tyoe20, best of all NO date like the original even comes with a acrylic crystal.
Yeah. They ruined them with that date. The date needs to be absent. It is one of the worst date implementations I have ever seen. It's too large. It cuts off the adjacent numerals. And carries too much weight on the dial, with the "Swiss Made" text making it even worse. I have two watches with 4:30 date windows. My Fifty Fathoms on which the date disappears when you're not looking for it. And my Breitling Navitimer A23322, which has a contrasting date window, but still manages to not interfere with the overall dial aesthetics. For me the 42mm civilian version Type 20 would have been a shoo in for my collection. I like the size and overall design. But the date window spoils it. To quick fix, I'd recommend, moving the "Swiss Made" to the 6 o'clock position, reducing the size of the date window, to stop it cutting off adjecent numerals, and make the date numerals grey on black to reduce it's weight on the dial. Then and only then will I consider it. Back to the drawing board, Breguet.
You might like the lil tweak I made on the Civilian model 10:18 (shifted the date the 3 and it hides quite nicely up there) and the Swiss Made absolutely goes to the bottom of the dial. Some very odd choices indeed 😆 And you're spot on about 4-30 date windows. Being a new time Zenith owner... they kill it. It completely disappears and feels so "integrated" without getting in the way of the tachy, minute scale, plots... it's masterful! Same with Navitimers. I have no idea what drove them to go down this route with the date in between to large numerals on the dial... Hope you're fantastic Meson! Have a great weekend sir! 🥃
@@ID-Guy I saw that, wasn't a fan of the 3 o'clock solution. If anything a 6 o'clock solution would be better. But my suggestion was based on leaving it at 430. Many ways to skin this particular cat (poor kitty). Anyway, have a great weekend, yourself. Loving your work.
Well it justifies the cost of the new Longines flyback chronograph to me now. You queried that cost a short while back but at 5Kish it's on my radar for a flyback complication and IMO a better looking watch than these models.
Agreed. And it hit me just today while uploading this, I bet you there is a huge sharing percentage between this and the Longines Flyback. What are the odds that Longines drops a Flyback a few months before this? And they're both a part of Swatch? 😉
@@ID-Guy Personally I think Longines are knocking it out the park across the board with their Spirit collection, it's great whatever way you look at it from cost/size's/design etc etc they've nailed it! I used to own a Heuer Sg 1550 flyback and it's a proper fit for purpose movement. Longines are at 5k...A bargain all day long in todays market for a true quality product and only a foolish fool wouldn't see that. Great video's by the way and please keep them coming. 👍
Not a bad pairing, those two pieces 😉 I have to find myself one of those new Hanhart 417's in 39mm's... the proportions and balance on those new pieces! Man, they're killing it! 🔥
So so disappointing. The finishing looks phenomenal, at least, but the date + price is wild. Do the neo-vintage Aeronavale models represent major bargains now?
They ruined the Marine line and now this... A shame because the case is very beautiful. Definitely not the same designers at Breguet anymore. I'd much rather a type XXI over this any day. It's also a much better value.
Umm….new Breguet type XX. Grail is an overused term but sometimes correctly expresses the desire, although; (and here I may skirt heresy), the iterations of Dodane, Airain et al also feed the need in the same way that Fliegers by the original 5 work as well. Are they necessary ? No but that is not the point of these watches, they exude purpose and intent and there is little abstract about them. I will also happily concede the Longines its place, it would find a place in my rotation….. i do not personally like the date window, it does not offend exactly but it is unnecessary for me. Fortunately, the world is not run to suit my quirks and prejudices and I am pleased by their existence. It throws a cross light high and hard across my deliberations, pointing towards my goal…… Hanhart es417 in 39mm please. The essence is the same; the execution more than satisfactory and the satisfaction equal.
The longines is Not a vertical clutch! , is 15 mm thick , no fly back and the absence of the bezel make the watch more generic looking. I’m not saying the longines is not a good watch BUT it is not a great one
Unlike Tudor / Yema and the MN, I don't think militaries are that hot for Chronographs these days. Too fussy, fiddly, expensive to repair. And they're just not bulletproof like most divers 😉 Rare exception could be for Sinn though... they're pretty much untouchable 🔥
@@ericb8888 ...dropped it on the beach and it got swept away in the tide 😉 To think back in the day you'd be given another one if one was lost (MilSub or Tudor Snowflake)...
"Date window" is really ugly, very sorry Breguet... Make 39mm/no-date watches... Take "Longines Spirit Titanium" watches as an example of perfection in military watch making... Omit that ugly date windows from your watches 🙈
One of my favorite chronograph designs of all time and this new collection does a lot of things right (I'd chase the civilian model if given the chance) But there have also been a few questionable design choices. My take: Breguet could have looked closer at the Only Watch 2019 and 2021 models and used those as reference points to evolve this collection. What are your thoughts?
you are a legend to predict whats about to come out soon ! congrats !
I tend to be a purist wanting reissues in a 1:1 format. I prefer the historical accuracy over modern interpretations. That being said, these watches look really good but the prices are a definite deal breaker. There are far too many excellent watches out there for less cost. Thank you for the video!🥃
@@unKonw91 It's all luck, trust me 🥃
@@alvinmick218 That 2019 Only Watch had us all clamouring for these and they could've been so easily followed up on BUT alas, they've missed out on some of the finer details to really push these over the edge. A pleasure to share these as always Alvin 🥃
@@ID-Guy Maybe they will still address these shortcomings. We can always hope!
I now own one of these new Breguet Type XX Civilian Chronographs. It has everything I was looking for - 60 hr power so I am not always winding it - 5Hz (it keeps PERFECT time) - sapphire back (if I am going to pay big $'s, then I want to see the movement) - 100m water resistance (I don't want to have to worry/think about it when I am around water) - a minute sub dial I can easily see - and a plain numbered bezel that is not a tachymeter so I can time one thing with the bezel and another with the stop watch function. I had never used a flyback before - it is fantastic, and now I will never buy another chronograph without it. Please let me know of another watch that has all these features.
Now about the date. Please note that the date numbers are 2/3 - 3/4 the size of the hour numbers. After a brief time the date seems to melt into the background, and I don't even notice it's there. Thanks for the opportunity to comment.
Hey Buddy, A great review of this watch, and I agree with you completely. I waited with much anticipation for this release and was extremely disappointed with the date window. That said, other reviewers have hinted that this is just the first in a line of releases and that a no-date version is in the works. If you have time, let's chat tomorrow, so let me know a good time to call.
The type xx to have is the pre swatch version: lemania+39mm+no date + no faux patina+ yet affordable (but not for a long time now)
Excellent discussion and review. I appreciated learning about the design and history of this style of watch. For me, the Longines Big Eye is the clear choice here. Breguet is offering far less value in this watch than some of their other more innovative and engineered pieces.
I hope IDGuy you are enjoying the Longines and wearing it in good health!
My pleasure to share Marc! And thank you sir! I hope you’re having an excellent weekend 🥃
Brilliant video. I love the type XX and the variations offered. I agree that Bregeut may have missed the mark on many of the small details. After all, it's these details that emphasize the perfection in design or at least IMHO. Cheers Mate
As you could probably tell, I'm a diehard for these models... and absolutely right, it's those tiny things that make the impact. Not having a cross through the "T", having a Big Eye on the dial of the military model. Just spices it up nicely and says to the enthusiast "we know what we're doing" 😉 Thank you Craig 🥃
@@ID-Guy you're spot on🥃
A Masterpiece for sure & the video isn't bad either !
Ah, all appreciated Ian 😉 Have a superb weekend! 🥃
@@ID-Guy & Yourself also , Enjoy
Less than a year ago, I was looking at Breguet watches at one of my dealers. They showed me the Type XX available at that time. I remember that I saw a standard version for around 12k€ and a limited edition at around 15k€. I didn't go for one because my eyes don't like chronographs anymore, but I saw and eventually bought a Breguet Classique with a beautiful white enamel dial. Now, the prices of the new Type XX seem to have increased 50% with this new series and I still don't look at chronographs.
Breguet classique’s & traditional’s are something else! Great call on picking one Calvin. A close friend of mine is eyeing a white enamel dial model too! Don’t really know what they can do with their chronographs to remedy how people see them at this stage. Some of their classic pieces are gorgeous though 😉🥃
Love this watch! a great model for the Breguet lineup!
Very Thoughtful, really enjoyed your take on the new releases. Would certainly be interested in a deeper dive into some of the prior variants.
Although competing in another league I always preferred the Longines Big Eye over the Type 20. Your video is informative and design-critical as always, much appreciated. Your version is much better indeed.
It’s always a pleasure to share these Cedar. And we always have an eye for the more quirky stuff (like the Nivada Chronomaster) 😉 Hope you’re having a great weekend sir! 🥃
Longines much much better
Dear Mr IDGuy, another condensed info packed video, thank you sir.
I can’t get past the value of these, no matter where this one sits in the hierarchy.
Appreciate Breguet, absolutely I do.
❤
A pleasure to always share these Dave and thank you sir! 😉🥃
1:40 - This is a great observation. I feel like this should apply to all watches. I just acquired a White Milgauss for this same reason.
Really appreciate it Harry. That would always be my aim when making these sorts of watches. If it's not ideal (like an original) or if something is "off" about it, it would drive me crazy 😉 I'm looking forward to coming up with some ideas for next years Milgauss (70th anniversary) 🔥
@@ID-Guy can’t wait🍻
The stuffed in there date window, just ruins it for me. I wish it were a few millimeters smaller too.
I try to remedy it in the video (it’s a pity that they had to cram it in there) Alas, there’s always something that feels “off” 🥃
@@ID-Guy yeah, the original timepieces these are based on didn’t have a date window I believe. I know Breguet wanted to show off there new chronograph movement, which has that obligatory date complication. Still, this would of been a lot nicer without it. As your version shows.
Yeah, I like date complications, but I’ve always disliked the execution at the 4:30 position. If Breguet insist on keeping it there, I wish they would make it vertically aligned similar to how Glashuette Original execute it.
Yeah the big eye already fills that space so to go cram something else in there just makes it too asymmetrical. Without the date it’s an strangely attractive quark with the date it’s a cluttered mess
@@lchamp7946 a panorama date would be fantastic! Great, great shout on this! 🥃
Another concise and complete watch design distillation. I am a fan of chronographs (don't own one), and I agree with you that the date complication complicates the dial. These two watches would have been better served with no date complication. The majority of watch wearers carry a phone - let that system tell you the date. Let a watch do its job - simply tell the time or elapsed time of an event. I am in your court with the Longines BigEye. It hits the mark by being smaller case diameter and better priced. As always, thanks for the review, and my one watch search continues.
We're going to find you that one watch one day! A simple, no date (diver) that has all the slimness, subtlety and utility you'd ever need 😉
Detailed video and appreciate it. However there are a some areas u got it wrong.
1) Type 20 is Military & Type XX is Civilian, not the other way around.
2) This release isn't an reissue or reedition, it was never the direction from Breguet.
3) Breguet's spirit was always to innovate, be it technical or functionality. Which is why, newer and patented movement and with a functional date.
Lastly IMO, Longines is a great watch. But it is not a Breguet, period. If purely on technical, a Tissot Powermatic wouldn't be a far cry from Rolex's 3 hands calibre.
Overall a nicely done review and i learnt new stuff today, cheers!
Excellent analysis as always!
Thank's a ton! I wondered about making a video on the pieces but then thought "you know quite a bit about them, share your 2 cents" 😆🥃
I am big fan of the Type XX and definitely the new one is a great move forward. I agree with all your adjustments as well 😁👍🏽
We're going to get you a civilian model Abdul, it's on the cards 😉
Very thoughtful and dare I say caring review. Not being as careful a student of the Type XX, I find particularly the military version stunning and Breguet’s history with this watch very compelling.
So glad I picked up the Breitling 765 avi. It was on discount for around 4000 quid when I bought it 🤘
Agree on date. Imho, all chronographs should simply ditch the date complication altogether! And all subdials should be of equal size so as to not to cut off some numbers. The Speedmaster Moonwatch & Rolex Daytona are the best Chronos imho for these reasons.
I do enjoy the whole "balancing act" of fitting numerals and sub-dials together and making them work harmoniously. Like the Breitling 765 AVI. They killed it with that watch... BUT man... the date window looks so heavy on these 🥃
@@ID-Guy Breguet could do a lot worse than to replace their design team with you! Good weekend! ☀️
@@KeepingWatchUK Very flattering 😉 Have a superb weekend sir! 🍻
The L688.5 in the bigeye uses an oscillating pinion, which is a horizontal clutch
Thank you for pointing this out to me! I have no idea how they've managed to get the chronograph to start so smoothly without stutter. I always believed that it's normally a clear indicator that the movement is vertical and not lateral. Every day is a school day 😉🥃
@@samgrant83 Thank you for this brother. Crazy how difficult it is to find info on these references. I guess because it's a fairly old piece (and movement) a lot of the background hasn't been as well documented online (forums etc) 🥃 Man, but they've build a killer chronograph. Tough as nails!
Just as well I decided to browse comments before posting the very same point lol, thank you bud 😅
Great video, btw, @IDGuy - agree with most points
Great video as always!
I don’t agree with a lot of your opinions often but I agree with most of this video. I do have to say that the t-cross on the new dial I understand why breguet did it. It’s a new era for the company and a new look this model.
It's a beautiful watch, but, as you point out the Longines " big eye " and Hanhart 417es are the more sensible choices.
We're never for "sensible" choices BUT sometimes, on those rare occasions, these sorts of releases make us scratch our heads 😉
The Hanhart 417 1954 flyback is by far the best value for money and best design imo. The build quality is unmatched for prices 2x the actual cost, and since they took all the design cues for the type 20’s that followed there basically homages to the Hanhart.
I agree, their new flybacks look killer. Such a great size and balanced dial to match. It's getting to a stage where these reissue brands are squashing the big names when it comes to quality & attention to detail 🥃
I like the Hanhart type 20 ..
Steve McQueen wore this model
The ACTUAL McQueen watch 😉 Hanhart has been killing it lately with their faithful recreation of that original 417 🥃
I think you are spot on about the mint green lume on the new military. My eye tends to fall more toward the Civilian model. The date is a true head scratcher for me. It just looks out of place and ruins the symmetry of the dial. I love these new Type XXs, but not at this price point. I had to chuckle as I just picked up a Longines Big Eye chronograph in steel and love it. The Big Eye is just an underrated watch and such value for the money.
It's a pity that the didn't scrutinise every detail and smash this collection. And you're right, incredibly underrate (even after 6-7 years) They are build like tanks and their movement's are bulletproof! 🥃
This just solidified in my mind how good the Breitling 765 AVI is. Not only is the inspiration for the Type XX but it kind of is a value proposition at 1/3 of the price, and you only lose the flyback function. Breguet keeps making mistakes and they're inching closer and closer to Jaquet Droz, which is a pity.
So many good inspirations out there and to think this is THE watch that represents the Type XX in watch culture. Some real odd choices all round (and the 765 AVI... I was close to picking up one... and it's constantly pulling me back 😉)
Good job
I like the date and it’s position. I don’t like Swiss made. Also I would like the dates straight (ie: vertical) not canted over.
Great Review as always
Well Done.
Thx again. Get going 🚀
Nice review for a new Type 20/XX since it answers the "what's next" question. Love the current Type XXI with all it's idiosyncrasies, non-hacking, cam operated chrono, fauxtina, etc. This new model in both military and civilian guises I think holds true to Breguet's vision of history brought into the now. There's a column wheel and vertical clutch...does it hack too? I think I missed if it does. I like it still date window and all, and prefer the civilian version. Great point about the Longines Big Eye, it's still punching well above it's weight class and it and the Hanhart 417, among few others, show that great design isn't always about high cost.
I have to agree with your thoughts IDGuy. As an owner of the stainless steel Longines Big Eye I'm unlikely to be in the market for an 'upgrade' any time soon. OK the Longines is not a flyback but they have release a flyback chronograph in the Spirit collection, a watch that I would consider if I could justify it.
It's definitely no coincidence that Longines gave us a Flyback a few months ago AND that both brands are a part of Swatch. There has to be a lot of sharing going on in the background 😉 Hope you're having a fantastic weekend Anthony!
@@ID-Guy I do think members of the Swatch group do share some things. The BigEye looks like it shares it's Valjoux 7753 base modifications with the old Omega 3330 sans the George Daniels coaxial escapement but keeps the column wheel. I think Longines took the first step with the L688 modification then Omega added the Coaxial bits later. Oddly I still can't find clarification on lateral or vertical clutch on the Longines L688 as I think it's still lateral on the Omega 3330. Odd I know but I have plenty of other things to loose sleep over than the clutch. Enjoy the rest of the weekend.
I like the vanished hands
The "vanished" hands, are those the hands on the civilian? In full agreement, they look fantastic!! No idea why others are critiquing them. They make the watch so much more special 🥃
I've been hanging out for these..! But now they're here, I'm slightly underwhelmed. I think seeing them in the metal will be very important, as will examining more details about the movement as they surface. And there are some fantastic design wins here. Re price, with the Longines Avi BigEye and the Pioneer Ti, you could have a very close approximation of both watches for £5k... But that's not really the point - you could have a Hydoconquest for under 1/10th of a FF! HH costs and a ground-up auto flyback from Breguet really had to cost £15k++... But the design, I agree with you: some hits and one obvious miss! I was very intrigued by your T20 date solution...clever. I prefer the TXX and do like a bit of mint lume, but that date is a bit challenging (and I normally like a 4.30 date). No date, a bit smaller and I'd have been down to my AD. As it is, a bit of a suck it and see...
I also feel like I should be going mad for these... been lusting after the Only Watch 2019 model ever since it launched BUT now that these have arrived and aren't 100%... it's quite a let down, right? And the prices... it's getting mad today. I have no idea where the justification for these prices come from (besides a brand name) But hey 😆🥃
This will be interesting.....
(Explorer update, I'm really considering the 114270 instead of the new one man... what do you think? Yes there is no anti reflective coating, and yes no lume on the numerals and yes, an older 3130 movement
But i really find the dial more elegant, the case is a little thinner and bracelet is lighter with 5 micro adjust holes on the thinner clasp... i find it very charming.. and 20mm bracelet is more substantial on wrist. Maybe not as elegant as the new one, and hollow centre links but that seems to have it's own character...its lighter and more tool looking
And the fact that it's discontinued means i can take my time and buy one when I've saved up, instead of being under pressure if the AD call me too soon)
It's such a tough call. On one hand, I've been eyeing the 14270 (birth year) but then I can't get around that I'll be paying "modern" watch prices for a stamped clasp, hollow links, older movement and all the rest. Plus the hassle of not knowing if or how many times it had been polished in its life... if parts have been replaced... heaven forbid, a dial / handset has been replaced!
My head says, going with the modern watch, brand new, minty fresh and wearing the snot out of it (check out "timemycollection" on instagram) He was a diehard Seamaster 1957 owner and wore it for years (more than me) after buying the 124270, it's all he wears. He's basically sold his entire collection, Seamaster included! Something about making those memories with one watch and knowing that it can take a beating that always gets me. BUT maybe it's just me 😉
@@ID-Guy thank you so much man. That genuinely helps me....(although I probably need actual therapy)...
Some of my doubts have been similar to yours - a watch that may be around 20 years old. Who knows how many times it's been dropped onto concrete and been bashed about. The new one would start the journey with me, and nobody else..... I've struggled with vintage watches in the past, so maybe my one and only rolex SHOULD be brand new, and I can add battle scars over the years to come
Damn you man ha ha, now the new one seems to make even more sense
I will decide when that AD call, and after I've tried it on....
I may have to finance around half the cost.... that's the other thing
@@Valera_Scotland If you want my 2 cents on the matter (and it's definitely strongly opinionated) - I'd never finance a watch. Just purely because we have so many other expenses to deal with - it's a killer to have that hanging over your head. Taking everything into account, I'd recommend you grabbing a BB54 (cliche) It's astounding how well they nailed this watch AND it's still not getting the respect it deserves. The movement is brand spanking new (updated after the Pelagos FXD) 70hr PR, 11mm's thick, gorgeous proportions, excellent lume, gilt dial (for those times when the light hits it just right) + it has a 60 minute bezel, so you can use it to time anything as well as having that vintage feel and simple dial to fall back on. Let's not forget the micro-adjusting clasp. You never feel like you're wearing a "bank" on your wrist and you can simply just enjoy it... Mine's been with me in the sun, BBQing, washing the car, exercising and it NEVER feels out of place or oversized. The biggest bonus of all... it's basically half the price of an Explorer AND you can buy it when you want 😉
@@ID-Guy that's brilliant man. It's already in my "top 5" list, so I'm keeping it as an option
I need to try that thing on.. seems like a perfect watch really
And you're obviously right about financing.... I'm just struggling to save up any money in this climate, so it may be a better idea to be patient and pay off my old credit card and loans first (yes I'm that idiot who wants a nice watch even though I have debt)
@@Valera_Scotland and @IDGuy - Gents I love this entire conversation. I am on an AD's list for a 36mm Explorer 124270 in stainless. It would be my one watch. However, the BB54 is also of high interest. A bit more versatile, and the size is PERFECTION. Plus nearly half the price of the Explorer. It may be time to fish rather than cut bait.
Thanks for the video. Watches like your "Big Eye" and the Hanhart Flyback Chronos are worthy comparisons, but I'm also thinking of the Airain (one of the originals) which also makes the Breguet look very pricy. I think I'd go that way if I was going to buy a type 20. Again it has differences to the original spec which can grate on the purist. There's a lot of prestige in the Breguet name and if you want that you must pay. I doubt they'll have trouble selling this pair.
There have been a few remarks on the Arain, and I agree, a gem of a chrono. That limited edition Grey varient that they dropped last year if I remember... what a gem! But all that said, Breguet is Breguet and that name will make the difference when it comes down to it 🥃
On the version with 2 subdials, I'd put the date window right above the six o'clock position or make it a grande date.
I LOVE the Type XX, but prefer the previous design where the numbers weren't cut off...
1:18 that was initial thought as well. They really f* it up. The worst part beside the design? Price... It looks like I'll be getting new Zenith Pilot Chrono.
The game plan is laid out on the table, all carefully organised, neat & tidy... but they decided to move across to the empty table and start again 😆 Great shout on the Zenith Pilot! The only brand actually allowed to put "pilot" on their dials? Legends 🥃
The Longines big eye chronograph is column wheel, but not a vertical clutch movement.
At the price demanded, I would at the very least expect Breguet-level finishing on the movement, yet it's utilitarian at best. If you're interested in a Type XX style, the Longine Avigation Big Eye or other brands are a much better deal, particularly as the cache of Breguet is not nearly what it used to be due to Swatch. I can see why they discontinued the Type XXI and XXII models, they are better looking and a better value in comparison (I will miss the 3817).
Quick release leather strap, nice
Hi great video. Ytype 20 military version type xx civilian.
your welcome
On the tri-compax new Type XX, the date can be placed at the 6 o'clock position like the recently retired Type XXI 3817. That's better than placing the date at the 3 o'clock position.
I am disappointed with these types xxs. I love the 3800s so much but didn't have enough money to buy one at the time. When I had enough they were discontinued. I wish they just updated the bracelet, clasp with microadjustments and the movement. That's all they needed to do.
They will remove the date while making it limited edition. The date was in the ideal place but the no date is most ideal. Makes me wonder if watches should start putting swiss made on more obscure places on the dial like right on the edge of the dial.
That date is like watching a P51 with a jet engine. It just looks wrong. My BigEye will have to continue to scratch my classic chrono itch.
Price and date window are strange. I do like the civilian look but the price puts it up with the big boys and I’m afraid it will lose out. Thx for another great video.
A pleasure to share these Mark. The prices of these models, man... it just feels unrealistic. Alas, some great forward steps BUT equal number of steps backwards 🥃
Who would you define as the big boys?
Which Hanart type XX model would you recommend?
I don’t like date complications on any of my watches. Manufacturers rarely get it right.
It really is a pity. They can be done so well BUT 8/10 times they botch them 🥃
How are you supposed to time anything on the Type XX with the single marker Bezel?
Nice. But, they missed the perfect mark with sone of the details and, frankyl, I'd be happier with a modern Hanhart flyback chronograph of similar style at well under $3k.
Hanhart Flyback. Great shoutout! The pricing scheme on these Breguets... just feels unrealistic 🥃
Type XX, thanks to its old ETA movement, used to be the way to get a Breguet at a Breitling price. Not anymore...
Alas, everything is going "upmarket" BUT now we can get Breitling at Tudor Prices, Zenith at Breitling prices 😉 The more things change...
This Beuguet is a beauty yes too much crammed up on the dial ditch the date for starters. More companies should upgrad there vintage lines to marden
Breitling 765 avi for the win. Aside from the annoying plexi it is a great watch without the awkward date.
I think the Best reissue of the Type 20 is the new Airain type 20
Great shout! They have made some beauties! The grey dial Furtivite was SUCH a gem! A real pity that these haven't become a mainstay.. but are limited 🥃
But they do have a regular Black dial in production, nearly always on preorder
@@mauriciomucino1015 "We'll get back to you in 5 or 6 months" 😉 Goes to show they are quite popular 🥃
They are nice looking watches.
You could thank them for the subject matter for the video. Lol
I think the date complication looks fine on the civilian version - not so much on the military.
I agree, the Civvy has that "busy-ness" factor going for it which helps with the date integration... but the Military... It goes from clean to "all over the place" in a matter of seconds 😆
The Longines looks to be a bargain in comparison.😎👍🏼
Ever had a watch that you sold that you beat yourself up for every day? Thats the Type XX for me.
42mm ... common 39mm is perfect ... why 😶
The prices are outrageous 🤯
J.
Hanhart es417
Very informative video, but the date s a No No for me. I just purchased a brand new last piece from my dealer Breitling AVI Ref 765 "Co-Pilot re-edition which is a bit smaller, thinner and hand wound fitted with the B09 caliber true to size and feel of the 1953 original which came before the Tyoe20, best of all NO date like the original even comes with a acrylic crystal.
Yeah. They ruined them with that date. The date needs to be absent. It is one of the worst date implementations I have ever seen. It's too large. It cuts off the adjacent numerals. And carries too much weight on the dial, with the "Swiss Made" text making it even worse.
I have two watches with 4:30 date windows. My Fifty Fathoms on which the date disappears when you're not looking for it. And my Breitling Navitimer A23322, which has a contrasting date window, but still manages to not interfere with the overall dial aesthetics.
For me the 42mm civilian version Type 20 would have been a shoo in for my collection. I like the size and overall design. But the date window spoils it. To quick fix, I'd recommend, moving the "Swiss Made" to the 6 o'clock position, reducing the size of the date window, to stop it cutting off adjecent numerals, and make the date numerals grey on black to reduce it's weight on the dial. Then and only then will I consider it. Back to the drawing board, Breguet.
You might like the lil tweak I made on the Civilian model 10:18 (shifted the date the 3 and it hides quite nicely up there) and the Swiss Made absolutely goes to the bottom of the dial. Some very odd choices indeed 😆 And you're spot on about 4-30 date windows. Being a new time Zenith owner... they kill it. It completely disappears and feels so "integrated" without getting in the way of the tachy, minute scale, plots... it's masterful! Same with Navitimers. I have no idea what drove them to go down this route with the date in between to large numerals on the dial... Hope you're fantastic Meson! Have a great weekend sir! 🥃
@@ID-Guy I saw that, wasn't a fan of the 3 o'clock solution. If anything a 6 o'clock solution would be better. But my suggestion was based on leaving it at 430. Many ways to skin this particular cat (poor kitty). Anyway, have a great weekend, yourself. Loving your work.
Well it justifies the cost of the new Longines flyback chronograph to me now. You queried that cost a short while back but at 5Kish it's on my radar for a flyback complication and IMO a better looking watch than these models.
Agreed. And it hit me just today while uploading this, I bet you there is a huge sharing percentage between this and the Longines Flyback. What are the odds that Longines drops a Flyback a few months before this? And they're both a part of Swatch? 😉
@@ID-Guy Personally I think Longines are knocking it out the park across the board with their Spirit collection, it's great whatever way you look at it from cost/size's/design etc etc they've nailed it! I used to own a Heuer Sg 1550 flyback and it's a proper fit for purpose movement. Longines are at 5k...A bargain all day long in todays market for a true quality product and only a foolish fool wouldn't see that. Great video's by the way and please keep them coming. 👍
It is a great looking watch, but unfortunately to rich for my wallet. I'll just have to keep enjoying my bigeye and hanhart, great video BTW
Not a bad pairing, those two pieces 😉 I have to find myself one of those new Hanhart 417's in 39mm's... the proportions and balance on those new pieces! Man, they're killing it! 🔥
@@ID-Guy I have the 42mm 417 but I should have went with the smaller one, still like it but I find myself wearing the bigeye more
Breguet, make a version with NO DATE and I'm a buyer. The date window ruins the watch imo
When the modern "reissue" costs more than a real vintage one.......and has a date window, you know something's a bit off.
42mm with 20mm strap doesn’t look quite right.
Added to the 14mm thickness and it does end up being quite the hockey puck 😉
So so disappointing. The finishing looks phenomenal, at least, but the date + price is wild.
Do the neo-vintage Aeronavale models represent major bargains now?
They ruined the Marine line and now this... A shame because the case is very beautiful. Definitely not the same designers at Breguet anymore. I'd much rather a type XXI over this any day. It's also a much better value.
Umm….new Breguet type XX. Grail is an overused term but sometimes correctly expresses the desire, although; (and here I may skirt heresy), the iterations of Dodane, Airain et al also feed the need in the same way that Fliegers by the original 5 work as well. Are they necessary ? No but that is not the point of these watches, they exude purpose and intent and there is little abstract about them. I will also happily concede the Longines its place, it would find a place in my rotation….. i do not personally like the date window, it does not offend exactly but it is unnecessary for me. Fortunately, the world is not run to suit my quirks and prejudices and I am pleased by their existence. It throws a cross light high and hard across my deliberations, pointing towards my goal…… Hanhart es417 in 39mm please. The essence is the same; the execution more than satisfactory and the satisfaction equal.
They should've skipped the date wheel on this one it really makes it look stupidly cluttered.
The longines is Not a vertical clutch! , is 15 mm thick , no fly back and the absence of the bezel make the watch more generic looking. I’m not saying the longines is not a good watch BUT it is not a great one
Logisch kann man eine Breuget nicht mit einer Longines vergleichen!😊
Breitling has done it better with their new 42mm Mustang.
Iis anyone currently signing for ( issuing ) these ?
Unlike Tudor / Yema and the MN, I don't think militaries are that hot for Chronographs these days. Too fussy, fiddly, expensive to repair. And they're just not bulletproof like most divers 😉 Rare exception could be for Sinn though... they're pretty much untouchable 🔥
@@ID-Guy Fair one …. Nobody will be signing for a 10k watch …. Lose it “ on exercise “ and it comes out of your salary over 12 months;)
@@ericb8888 ...dropped it on the beach and it got swept away in the tide 😉 To think back in the day you'd be given another one if one was lost (MilSub or Tudor Snowflake)...
@@ID-Guy “ then a seagull swooped down and picked it up ….. then it dropped it and an octopus stole it ……..Sir …”
@@ericb8888 "so I swam after it, turned out to be a squid, a mini-kraken, and decided to put my yellow welly in its eye" 😉
Should have been 40mm, no date.
First
Great seeing you John! I can always rely on you being on time 😉🥃
It’s shocking how poorly executed the date window is on this new Type XX. This is from Breguet after all.
Your so right- ugly and way too expensive - Mark Hayek is as wrong at his Place as a red Bugatti
Reviewing a watch you don't even have in hand = no credibility.
"Date window" is really ugly, very sorry Breguet... Make 39mm/no-date watches... Take "Longines Spirit Titanium" watches as an example of perfection in military watch making... Omit that ugly date windows from your watches 🙈