Some things I have learned over the years spraying latex on hobby projects: 1) Tip size is very important. Narrow tips give a finer, less granular finish, but will only work with thinner materials (auto paints, varnishes, lacquers etc). Latex needs a larger tip (that usually needs to be purchased separately). A tip >2mm is highly recommended for a latex paint. Since you often need to buy separately, this is why I don't buy the really cheap no-name HVLP guns, because sourcing those tips can be impossible. Buy a gun where various tip sizes are readily available for purchase. Tip size needed depends on viscosity. There is a table in Jeff Jewitt's book that tells you what tip size to use for each viscosity range. Don't guess, measure with a Ford#4 cup and look up the recommended tip diameter) 2) Latex conditioner (Floetrol, Wagner Paint Easy etc) is not the same as a thinner (ie water). It slows dry time, allowing the paint to flatten out during drying. While wet, sprayed latex will look orange peel or granular, but will level out to flat as part of the drying process. If no conditioner is added, the HVLP-sprayed latex paint can dry too quickly and that imperfect finish stays. Conditioner slows the dry time enough to achieve a flat finish. A little goes a long way. Too much weakens the hardness of the paint, and results in runs on vertical surfaces. Water is for thinning so paint flows through the gun more quickly and gets atomized properly. They both need to be added for best results as they do different things. I'm not a chemist: adding an unknown variable like glycol windshield fluid or Windex *may* inhibit latex cure time, but on the other hand it may evaporate faster because of the alcohol etc, which defeats the purpose of trying to slow dry time. Stick with real paint conditioner. Note: don't use with alkyd (incompatible chemistry). 3) Easy ratio to remember: 8 parts latex to 1 part water to 1 part Floetrol. Tweak as desired. 4) Sprayed latex may dry overnight, but can take weeks to fully *cure*. During that time, it's easy to mar, and things stick to it (paint blocking). That's fine for a wall, not so fine on furniture. If spraying furniture, you must top coat with a finish like waterborne polyurethane. Otherwise the latex won't hold up and your efforts will be wasted. 5) HVLP is way too slow to paint large projects like a house. Use airless equipment for that. HVLP is better suited for smaller projects. 6) There are much better products out there than latex for cabinets etc (search waterborne lacquer), but I have found that sourcing them is a huge pain. They are usually classed as commercial coatings, and aren't available in big box stores. Many places won't sell small quantities to a hobbyist. If you can get a waterborne lacquer in the tint you desire, buy it instead of latex. However, for us lowly weekend warriors, latex + polyurethane will have to suffice.
Good advice but if you're a professional, the last thing you want is to slow down your dry time by adding something like Floetrol. You'd be surprised what you can do with a 1.8 to 2.0mm tip and Cabinet Coat with 5% water. Dries to the touch in 1 hour and recoats in 4 to 6 depending on climate. The finish flattens out like a factory finish and the next day it's ready for service (even difficult to sand after 24 hours it's so tough) and gets even harder over the next 5 to 7 days. Of course, nothing beats a lacquer as you said.
Good information. Now I'm too spooked to try it. I've spent months stripping 65 years of paint down to the bare wood on my front porch (under the eaves is a b*tch); and the stripping and priming have been really tedious and time-consuming. I was wondering if maybe spray-painting the color coat would help move things along (since it's mid-November and I'm trying to beat the weather). But this seems like something better suited for a pro. Don't want to screw up the final step after so much work.
Thank yoou, thank you! The video was very timely and informative! I am spraying kitchen cabinet doors with Cabinet Coat Insl-X by Benjamin Moore/PPG (which is not cheap and can be touchy paint). This a water based urethane and they don't want it thinned but in their product info sheet, they give some ratios if have to do it - and it is not much. I am using a HF HVLP gun with a 1.4 mm tip, 25 to 30 psi at the gun. My mixing ratios are for 10 oz of paint plus 15 to 20 ml water and the same for Floetrol. Mix well after adding water and Floetrol. Reading the Floetrol label again, they claim that the product does NOT thin paint. Interesting, so I tried your routine exactly except for the measure of paint. The cup is 20 oz so I figured I'd start there. Results were perfection!! I cannot believe the quality of the paint and the finish on the cabinet doors! You must adjust the gun properly and check your pattern. Also, be sure to do a quality job priming and touch up sanding to get the surface prepared. Hope my thoughts help someone struggling to find what works for their project. This routine should work for similar paints. Thanks taking your time to do the video as it helped me immensely!
I've seen similar instructions from Jeff Jewit (Homestad, pro finisher). He says to take the latex paint and add 1 oz of water (no volume, but I guess it's for 20 oz ish, one paint cup) and then if the flow is bad add 1 oz Floetrol. Then repeat; I'd say test with 0.5 oz increments -but I'm a noob looking for data so ...
Thanks Chris, great info. I painted vanity cabinet doors and drawers with a durable semi-gloss latex paint. I used a top-cup HVLP spray gun. A added Floetrol to help level the paint, and I added just a small amount of water to get the correct consistency so that it would flow through the spray gun. The project turned out great, thanks to your tips!
I'm going to paint my house tom. Though this video is quite dated, it is still a good tutorial. I'll give it a go using my suction type gun. You'll never know unless you try. I like the no-nonsense, practical approach of this guy. Many thanks!
You can use windshield washer fluid, not antifreeze! It cuts the latex, and also allows it to dry faster than water, because the washer fluid has alcohol in it. Floetrol is not really a thinner, it basically was made to keep paint wet longer, which makes spraying with an airless sprayer better, because the paint doesnt dry up and plug the tips as much
@@BlahBlahManYeah It does with lighter colors. I like using floetrol. It was made specifically for latex paint and doesn't cost that much like $13 a gallon. A gallon goes a very long way.
I thinned "Fine Paints of Europe" Water based White Cabinet paint by 10% with Blue Windshield Washer Anti - Freeze and the job came out perfect. Two reasons I know to use it are the alcohol which is gives it the blue color helps delivery the paint and lubes the gun. (The alcohol dissipates so there is no blue coloring effect on the paint color). The second reason is that the water is distilled meaning minimal mineral residue and chlorine free. (Tap water is pre-chlorinated before delivery to you house and well/ground water is loaded with mineral deposits).
I learned all about that now.. the alcohol dries faster than water.. that’s why they use it... the cl2 in water is 4 parts per million at most and minerals don’t do anything to paint... just cause you read it on the internet don’t make it true.. you would of gotten the same results with tap water... I thin all paint with water now.. I only use flotrol on doors that need to dry perfect
Got a neighbor that used alcohol to thin out his semi gloss paint, he did his front door and looks amazing, no water, just alcohol. Thanks for the video!
@@chriscraft77022 You are absolutely correct on that, but I think the main reason behind the addition of water, floetrol or the alcohol is to thin the paint for it to better flow through the spray gun (in this case), once it is applied, if the alcohol evaporates, would there be a difference if the paint was applied by itself (no additives)?… in other words, if alcohol evaporates, the base paint will go back to its original condition. I am just thinking outside the box, but you could be right. Hey, thanks for replying and your videos are super awesome, you have details that others don’t mention. Thanks!!!
I learned by spraying latex with a 2.0 tip make sure when you fill your cup to use a paper filter to catch any trash and to thin your paint slightly and to make sure and wipe off the tip of the nozzle regularly.
I got that same 2.0 gun and just wanting to do some trim and 2 doors so it should work I'm guessing spraying trim paint from I was go put a drop of hardener in it to see 😜😂 any pointers u can dish out I ty in advance
Forgot to mention I used a gravity feed HVLP automotive spray gun with a 2.0mm nozzle. This week I'm paining a bow windows wood interior with Benjamin Moore Chantilly lace semi-gloss latex and had to go with a 2.5 nozzle and thinned by10%.
Video was lots of help, getting ready to paint a hutch for my wife, 1st try spraying latex have done some cars and equipment with the paint from days gone by, acrylic/enamels-w/clear coat. Hope I can get the working pressure right,it was my big question. need to check the tip sizes I have. May try the windshield washer as a thinner on a test piece. NOT A/F. Have a Wagner elect. but never had the best luck getting an even spray.
No, no not anitfreeze, but windshiled wahser fluid. Most have glycol which seems to increases flow and if you add enough a little elasticity. (glycol is often used to make plastics) I almost always add a little becaus I like the flow I get. Cheers.
great video just to be clear you used the 3:1 ratio here and said you wanted to do 10:1 next time meaning it would not be as diluted with the floetrol is that correct? I would think you would add more floetrol if you wanted to lay down even more...Just wanted clarity as I am about to do this for the first time.
Well, I'm game. So how big a compresser or how small can i get away with? Is there another option besides that and gravity fed? A little worried about covering and taping over floor well. A little trickey at corner of wall bcs window on opposite wall is so close to corner. I'll tape plastic drop cloth over that. Any tips?? I tried painting 1 apt wall by hand rolled n cut in w brush. Disabled and it about did me in. Day 2 I'm still in a big hurt. Been in apt 11 years and needs a pretty clean color. The walls had a very uneven thick orange peel texture. Idk what was done b4 but have seen maintenance not knowing the things that are commonly needed. Had 2 shake my head when one new man was being shown how to snake a toilet, and stated he had never done it. A maintenance man. I remember 6 in 11 yrs. And disabled/elderly housing privately owned ( slum lords) federally funded. Its a shame. Managers well we're up to 8 in 11 yrs.
Kittens??!!! Hahaha Man they were really small!! Thats a good trick. Good to know if you already have an automotive gun. Save you some money. Probably work better.
Last week I have used oil based under coat on mdf drawers, previously primed with mdf primer. I didn’t use any white spirit to thin it ! I just warm up the under coat in 60 degrees Celsius tap water. Can’t you do the same with latex or enamel paint? Mixed with the stick for about 10min Viscosity of my paint was much lover than yours thinned. I’ve used same looking gun with pressure pot system by “Sealey” 1.8 set up. Right now is almost 24h since undercoating and it looks magnificent !
New to your channel, what do you use to deep clean the exterior of your paint sprayer? I paint furniture/cabinets and have a lot of overspray on sprayer.
If it's latex paint, use denatured alcohol. If it's solvent based paint such as oil paint, use lacquer thinner. Make sure to wear chemical resistant gloves and do it in a well ventilated space.
I heard that suction spraying pushes latex paint easier because of the cup's pressure and that it requires less thinning. And, the sales rep, said that the suction gun model is the one usually employed for painting wood and whatnot (implying that it has a nicer finish). Any idea of what he was talking about?
@@chriscraft77022 Yeah. But, I mean, you're spraying with gravity, what was that guy saying anyway? That the finish won't be as nice or what? That pressure suction gives better results? Is that true?
you can get perfect results with any sprayer..... watch my painting a front door video to see a thick paint job lay out flat with the floetrol.. I don’t know what guy you are talking about or even the sprayer you are talking about... you can even brush paint with floetrol in it and get super nice results ..
I’m about to make a bunch of videos trying to finish it now that the weather has cooled down a bit.. in Houston it’s been raining non stop and hasn’t been completely dry for like 2 months... combined with attack mosquitos and humidity..
@@vitaminb4869 Compressors have a ~50% duty cycle. If you operate a compressor continuously, expect excessive wear and a significantly shorter life from your compressor.
Some things I have learned over the years spraying latex on hobby projects:
1) Tip size is very important. Narrow tips give a finer, less granular finish, but will only work with thinner materials (auto paints, varnishes, lacquers etc). Latex needs a larger tip (that usually needs to be purchased separately). A tip >2mm is highly recommended for a latex paint. Since you often need to buy separately, this is why I don't buy the really cheap no-name HVLP guns, because sourcing those tips can be impossible. Buy a gun where various tip sizes are readily available for purchase. Tip size needed depends on viscosity. There is a table in Jeff Jewitt's book that tells you what tip size to use for each viscosity range. Don't guess, measure with a Ford#4 cup and look up the recommended tip diameter)
2) Latex conditioner (Floetrol, Wagner Paint Easy etc) is not the same as a thinner (ie water). It slows dry time, allowing the paint to flatten out during drying. While wet, sprayed latex will look orange peel or granular, but will level out to flat as part of the drying process. If no conditioner is added, the HVLP-sprayed latex paint can dry too quickly and that imperfect finish stays. Conditioner slows the dry time enough to achieve a flat finish. A little goes a long way. Too much weakens the hardness of the paint, and results in runs on vertical surfaces. Water is for thinning so paint flows through the gun more quickly and gets atomized properly. They both need to be added for best results as they do different things. I'm not a chemist: adding an unknown variable like glycol windshield fluid or Windex *may* inhibit latex cure time, but on the other hand it may evaporate faster because of the alcohol etc, which defeats the purpose of trying to slow dry time. Stick with real paint conditioner. Note: don't use with alkyd (incompatible chemistry).
3) Easy ratio to remember: 8 parts latex to 1 part water to 1 part Floetrol. Tweak as desired.
4) Sprayed latex may dry overnight, but can take weeks to fully *cure*. During that time, it's easy to mar, and things stick to it (paint blocking). That's fine for a wall, not so fine on furniture. If spraying furniture, you must top coat with a finish like waterborne polyurethane. Otherwise the latex won't hold up and your efforts will be wasted.
5) HVLP is way too slow to paint large projects like a house. Use airless equipment for that. HVLP is better suited for smaller projects.
6) There are much better products out there than latex for cabinets etc (search waterborne lacquer), but I have found that sourcing them is a huge pain. They are usually classed as commercial coatings, and aren't available in big box stores. Many places won't sell small quantities to a hobbyist. If you can get a waterborne lacquer in the tint you desire, buy it instead of latex. However, for us lowly weekend warriors, latex + polyurethane will have to suffice.
Great review !!!!! Thanks !!!!
Great Info! thanks for sharing!
9
Good advice but if you're a professional, the last thing you want is to slow down your dry time by adding something like Floetrol. You'd be surprised what you can do with a 1.8 to 2.0mm tip and Cabinet Coat with 5% water. Dries to the touch in 1 hour and recoats in 4 to 6 depending on climate. The finish flattens out like a factory finish and the next day it's ready for service (even difficult to sand after 24 hours it's so tough) and gets even harder over the next 5 to 7 days. Of course, nothing beats a lacquer as you said.
Good information. Now I'm too spooked to try it. I've spent months stripping 65 years of paint down to the bare wood on my front porch (under the eaves is a b*tch); and the stripping and priming have been really tedious and time-consuming. I was wondering if maybe spray-painting the color coat would help move things along (since it's mid-November and I'm trying to beat the weather). But this seems like something better suited for a pro. Don't want to screw up the final step after so much work.
Thank yoou, thank you! The video was very timely and informative! I am spraying kitchen cabinet doors with Cabinet Coat Insl-X by Benjamin Moore/PPG (which is not cheap and can be touchy paint). This a water based urethane and they don't want it thinned but in their product info sheet, they give some ratios if have to do it - and it is not much. I am using a HF HVLP gun with a 1.4 mm tip, 25 to 30 psi at the gun. My mixing ratios are for 10 oz of paint plus 15 to 20 ml water and the same for Floetrol. Mix well after adding water and Floetrol. Reading the Floetrol label again, they claim that the product does NOT thin paint. Interesting, so I tried your routine exactly except for the measure of paint. The cup is 20 oz so I figured I'd start there. Results were perfection!! I cannot believe the quality of the paint and the finish on the cabinet doors! You must adjust the gun properly and check your pattern. Also, be sure to do a quality job priming and touch up sanding to get the surface prepared. Hope my thoughts help someone struggling to find what works for their project. This routine should work for similar paints. Thanks taking your time to do the video as it helped me immensely!
I've seen similar instructions from Jeff Jewit (Homestad, pro finisher). He says to take the latex paint and add 1 oz of water (no volume, but I guess it's for 20 oz ish, one paint cup) and then if the flow is bad add 1 oz Floetrol. Then repeat; I'd say test with 0.5 oz increments -but I'm a noob looking for data so ...
Thanks Chris, great info. I painted vanity cabinet doors and drawers with a durable semi-gloss latex paint. I used a top-cup HVLP spray gun. A added Floetrol to help level the paint, and I added just a small amount of water to get the correct consistency so that it would flow through the spray gun. The project turned out great, thanks to your tips!
I'm going to paint my house tom. Though this video is quite dated, it is still a good tutorial. I'll give it a go using my suction type gun. You'll never know unless you try. I like the no-nonsense, practical approach of this guy. Many thanks!
Hey, Thanks Chris, great video, no BS and straight to the point and very informational, appreciate it man!
Floetrol helps the paint level well and slows the drying time. Use with caution while spraying, you don't want runs and sags everywhere.
You can use windshield washer fluid, not antifreeze! It cuts the latex, and also allows it to dry faster than water, because the washer fluid has alcohol in it.
Floetrol is not really a thinner, it basically was made to keep paint wet longer, which makes spraying with an airless sprayer better, because the paint doesnt dry up and plug the tips as much
splash does use of washer fluid adds some tint to original color?
@@BlahBlahManYeah It does with lighter colors. I like using floetrol. It was made specifically for latex paint and doesn't cost that much like $13 a gallon. A gallon goes a very long way.
thanks chris windsheild washer fluid is what you want to use to thin out your latex paint not anifreeze
I thinned "Fine Paints of Europe" Water based White Cabinet paint by 10% with Blue Windshield Washer Anti - Freeze and the job came out perfect. Two reasons I know to use it are the alcohol which is gives it the blue color helps delivery the paint and lubes the gun. (The alcohol dissipates so there is no blue coloring effect on the paint color). The second reason is that the water is distilled meaning minimal mineral residue and chlorine free. (Tap water is pre-chlorinated before delivery to you house and well/ground water is loaded with mineral deposits).
I learned all about that now.. the alcohol dries faster than water.. that’s why they use it... the cl2 in water is 4 parts per million at most and minerals don’t do anything to paint... just cause you read it on the internet don’t make it true.. you would of gotten the same results with tap water... I thin all paint with water now.. I only use flotrol on doors that need to dry perfect
the blue is just a dye added to the washer fluid it is just water and methanol alcohol.. winter blend more alcohol then summer blend
Got a neighbor that used alcohol to thin out his semi gloss paint, he did his front door and looks amazing, no water, just alcohol. Thanks for the video!
the alcohol evaporates faster… the floetrol slows down the dry time so the paint lays out..
@@chriscraft77022 You are absolutely correct on that, but I think the main reason behind the addition of water, floetrol or the alcohol is to thin the paint for it to better flow through the spray gun (in this case), once it is applied, if the alcohol evaporates, would there be a difference if the paint was applied by itself (no additives)?… in other words, if alcohol evaporates, the base paint will go back to its original condition. I am just thinking outside the box, but you could be right. Hey, thanks for replying and your videos are super awesome, you have details that others don’t mention. Thanks!!!
Your video is excellent and you make it easy to follow.
I learned by spraying latex with a 2.0 tip make sure when you fill your cup to use a paper filter to catch any trash and to thin your paint slightly and to make sure and wipe off the tip of the nozzle regularly.
Thanks for the tips - and especially for the kitties
I have 2.0 tip on the cheap gun from Harbor Freight and it sprays latex just fine , even better if you thin the latex.
I keep forgetting to get that gun.. thanks for reminding me …
I got that same 2.0 gun and just wanting to do some trim and 2 doors so it should work I'm guessing spraying trim paint from I was go put a drop of hardener in it to see 😜😂 any pointers u can dish out I ty in advance
Thanks Chris. You always try stuff to see if it will work so we don't have to.
Forgot to mention I used a gravity feed HVLP automotive spray gun with a 2.0mm nozzle. This week I'm paining a bow windows wood interior with Benjamin Moore Chantilly lace semi-gloss latex and had to go with a 2.5 nozzle and thinned by10%.
Have been wanting to try this. Thanks for sharing.
Great video, the kittens made it even better!
Why when I spray it’s splatters ? And it’s not giving me a smooth spray like you video ?
Helpful vid, thanks. Did you add water and Flowtrol? Or, was it just Flowtrol?
Video was lots of help, getting ready to paint a hutch for my wife, 1st try spraying latex have done some cars and equipment with the paint from days gone by, acrylic/enamels-w/clear coat. Hope I can get the working pressure right,it was my big question. need to check the tip sizes I have. May try the windshield washer as a thinner on a test piece. NOT A/F. Have a Wagner elect. but never had the best luck getting an even spray.
No, no not anitfreeze, but windshiled wahser fluid. Most have glycol which seems to increases flow and if you add enough a little elasticity. (glycol is often used to make plastics) I almost always add a little becaus I like the flow I get. Cheers.
Very cute kittens. Love cats
Thanks for the advice, it really helped.
Wonderful sharing
Nice work & very detailed imput. What cfm compressor did you use?
Would this be the same for HTE or Reduced pressure spray guns ?
Great video! On my way to Home Depot!! Got some trim to paint 😊
great video just to be clear you used the 3:1 ratio here and said you wanted to do 10:1 next time meaning it would not be as diluted with the floetrol is that correct? I would think you would add more floetrol if you wanted to lay down even more...Just wanted clarity as I am about to do this for the first time.
watch my how to paint a front door video .., you really just have to play around with different things... that floetrol is very forgiving
Well, I'm game. So how big a compresser or how small can i get away with? Is there another option besides that and gravity fed? A little worried about covering and taping over floor well. A little trickey at corner of wall bcs window on opposite wall is so close to corner. I'll tape plastic drop cloth over that. Any tips?? I tried painting 1 apt wall by hand rolled n cut in w brush. Disabled and it about did me in. Day 2 I'm still in a big hurt. Been in apt 11 years and needs a pretty clean color. The walls had a very uneven thick orange peel texture. Idk what was done b4 but have seen maintenance not knowing the things that are commonly needed. Had 2 shake my head when one new man was being shown how to snake a toilet, and stated he had never done it. A maintenance man. I remember 6 in 11 yrs. And disabled/elderly housing privately owned ( slum lords) federally funded. Its a shame. Managers well we're up to 8 in 11 yrs.
Just drill the tip out with a 5/64 bit 2mm
Kittens??!!! Hahaha Man they were really small!! Thats a good trick. Good to know if you already have an automotive gun. Save you some money. Probably work better.
What if I have a 2.3mm tip?
nice info thanks dude.
what size compressor are you using?
Last week I have used oil based under coat on mdf drawers, previously primed with mdf primer.
I didn’t use any white spirit to thin it !
I just warm up the under coat in 60 degrees Celsius tap water.
Can’t you do the same with latex or enamel paint?
Mixed with the stick for about 10min
Viscosity of my paint was much lover than yours thinned.
I’ve used same looking gun with pressure pot system by “Sealey” 1.8 set up.
Right now is almost 24h since undercoating and it looks magnificent !
New to your channel, what do you use to deep clean the exterior of your paint sprayer? I paint furniture/cabinets and have a lot of overspray on sprayer.
If it's latex paint, use denatured alcohol. If it's solvent based paint such as oil paint, use lacquer thinner. Make sure to wear chemical resistant gloves and do it in a well ventilated space.
THUMBS UP FOR KITTENS!!!
I heard that suction spraying pushes latex paint easier because of the cup's pressure and that it requires less thinning. And, the sales rep, said that the suction gun model is the one usually employed for painting wood and whatnot (implying that it has a nicer finish). Any idea of what he was talking about?
yeah, but I didn’t use the type of gun you are talking about.. mine is a siphon old style .. I’ve never used one of those pressure pot guns either
@@chriscraft77022 Yeah. But, I mean, you're spraying with gravity, what was that guy saying anyway? That the finish won't be as nice or what? That pressure suction gives better results? Is that true?
you can get perfect results with any sprayer..... watch my painting a front door video to see a thick paint job lay out flat with the floetrol.. I don’t know what guy you are talking about or even the sprayer you are talking about... you can even brush paint with floetrol in it and get super nice results ..
Glad ur back. What's going on with the chevelle?
I’m about to make a bunch of videos trying to finish it now that the weather has cooled down a bit.. in Houston it’s been raining non stop and hasn’t been completely dry for like 2 months... combined with attack mosquitos and humidity..
I have a 2 gallon air compressor is that large enough to use this gun and what should the pressure be on
No, you need at least 15 gallons, with the compressor producing at least 3.5 CFM. The pressure at the gun is usually around 20-25 pounds.
Try an LVLP gun with that compressor
@@onestepunlock4475 jeez..you don't need 15 gallons. As long as compressor can keep up, tank size is irrelevant.
@@vitaminb4869 Compressors have a ~50% duty cycle. If you operate a compressor continuously, expect excessive wear and a significantly shorter life from your compressor.
you sprayed polythene, it will reflect
What size nozzle tip were you using in this demonstration?
1.4mm
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