Color Filling Techniques on Wood for Laser Engraving, CNC and Carving
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- Color Filling Techniques on wood for laser engraving, cnc and carving. Create stunning multi-dimensional engravings and carvings by adding color. Learn 3 simple techniques of color filling using acrylic craft paints.
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Materials:
Links marked with * are affiliation links with products that I love and use all the time.
Wood (baltic birch is sturdy, inexpensive and readily available at most hardware stores)
Acrylic craft paint (inexpensive paints work just as well. I get mine at Ocean State Job Lots)
Brushes (plan on a lot of wear and tare. I also get these ate Ocean State Job Lots, Michaels, JoAnns Fabric, AC Moore, Walmart).
Shellac (spray or paint on. Found in most hardware or craft stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, Michaels)
Denatured Alcohol (Found in most hardware stores)
220 grit sandpaper (Found in most hardware stores)
paper towels
re-purposed lids and containers for water and paints
Tools:
Sanders (Orbital, block or handmade)
Download a free template for a wood drying rack:
www.dropbox.com/sh/wf1wqhr8dz...
Disclaimer & Copyright ~ Unless explicitly stated, this not a sponsored video. All opinions are honest and my own.
Copyright © 2019 Elephant Memories by JoBeMac Studios All rights reserved.
#howto #diy #laser - Jak na to + styl
WOW! Thanks!
You're welcome!
This is great! Thank-you for showing the different application styles as well!
Thank you! I've actually been looking for a technique for painting bas relief on thrifted vases. I think this will work. 😊👍👏👌
Great job! Looks awesome! And simple!
Thank you.
Thank you I have been looking for something like this ever since I started lasering 😁
Glad it helped
Cover the wood with making tape before engraving and you won't have to sand the burn marks, just peal the tape up.
True, but that adds both more cost and time. I find removing the tape from the tiny letter tedious. I have also had a few times where the tape bubbled a little near the engraving which then can't really be used for the colorfill.
@@1elephantmemories I have found the same to be true. There are still some instances where masking is a good idea, but in general, it is more trouble than it is worth.
The green looks awesome!
Thank you. I have a lot of fun with this.
Beautifuly done .
Nice examples and explanation. 7 min is just right. Thanks!
Thank you!
Awesome technique! Thank you!!
You welcome!
Very well done ! Thanks for the demo
Glad you liked it.
Excellent technique! Thanks for the ideas.
You are very welcome.
Beautifully done Anne. I worked with wood all my life (I'm 69) but mostly heavy duty stuff. Nowadays I'm into building toys and such. Your coloring technique is awesome to say the least. Thank you. Stay safe, you and your family.
Thank you. I love crafting. So much fun.
Worked like a charm. thanks
Awesome!
Thank you. This was very helpful.
I am glad it helped.
Thank You, very Helpful!
Glad it helped.
Thank you! Very helpful!
Glad it helped. I am working on an updated version that will answer a lot of questions and new techniques.
Nice Idea for color feel👍👍👍💐💐💐
Awesome, thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped.
So helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to share
Glad it was helpful!
I really liked the vid demos, looks great ❤ took it at face value and will use on another project. Thanks so much!
Thank you. I am working on an updated version for January. I will also be doing a live chat to answer question at that time too. Have fun.
Thank you! I needed this!
You're so welcome!
thank you very much! really helpful! I finally got it how others managed to do colored areas. I used to cut the food, paint it and then insert it back in the original wood to add colors LOL this made life a lot easier. thanks and best regards from Romania :D
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much. I'm new to this stuff and your video was very helpful. Looking forward to seeing more tips
Glad it helped. I will be adding more for laser, cnc, signmaking and resin tutorials. Not sure if you saw the recent post about colorfilling with mica powder. Takes engraving to a whole new level.
Great job, I love the green combo one 😮
Thank you! Cheers!
This is great. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Thank you. I hope it helps.
You are most welcome. We are in the middle of moving our studio, then I plan on posting more, including an advanced colorfill.
Brilliant really enjoyed that.
Thanks 👌👌👌
Glad you liked it. I am working on an updated version that answers questions and new techniques.
Great tips! Thank you.
Thank you.
great content, very helpful thank you 100x
Thank you!
Thank you
Your welcome and enjoy a new world of creativeness.
Bella idea ! Grazie per il video
Sono contento che abbia aiutato. Grazie.
Thank you for this video. Last night I need my first wood project, I engraved a mandala and was actually thinking of coloring it.
Great idea.
Is it simple wall color?
Well done. Great video.
Thank you!
Super, super and thank you from France
Hope it helps!
This is awesome thank you
Thank you.
Thank you that really helpful
Glad to hear it!
Thanks. This was a really good video!
Glad it was helpful!
great idea
Thank you!
Awesome 👏🏼
Thank you!
Good work 🇧🇷👏🏾
Thank you.
شكرا جزيلا سيدتي
اهلا وسهلا بك.
Thank you so much. You just easily solved a dilemma for me!
Great. I hope it works well.
@@1elephantmemories it did!!!
@@catherinecoleman7864 Yay!
I know this was a while ago, your video pulled up with my question and you made this really simple. Thank you for the video Love the many color examples. going to have some fun with this
Glad it helped. I am currently working on an updated version that will answer some of the common questions that I have been getting since I did this video. I appreciate you taking the time to leave me feedback!
@@1elephantmemories Your welcome, I subbed you channel. I am trying to learn some of this stuff only for hobby and family doings. The color thing you did was absolutely awesome and I gotta learn that. I have been binge watching some of your other videos, look forward to the update on this process. I have had to watch it several time to make sure I get it right.
@@Lorddarthvader1701 The most important thing is to seal your wood well. Love to see what you do. If you have any questions or have a particular project you would like to to tackle, let me know.
@@1elephantmemories Thank you very much again for your help on this.
I had seen a product called Liquamask but it was so expensive. This is a way above average solution. Thank you you have really inspired me.
Thank you. I am glad it worked out for you.
What a great technique! Thank you for making this video! I will definitely be using this technique in my projects!
Thank you. I am working on an updated version that will answer a lot of common questions.
Nice!
Thank you.
This is amazing. I will try it in my next project. Do you have videos on how to engrave and proper techniue?
I have an epilog laser engraver. However, you can also use this when hand carving.
I like your videos about the wood engraving... when are you making more? 😊
Thank you Stephanie. We have a lot of projects in mind and will be doing more wood engraving and wood working in the near future.
Thanks for the video. I had really small and shallow text, so instead of the wet paper towel shown at 2:36 I used a razor blade to scrape the excess ink, when working in that size the paper towel took away the paint from inside the letters
Thanks for the tip. I am working on an updated version that will answer a lot of questions and look at other techniques. I will give this a try.
Thank you for the videos. They are very helpful. I am using 1/8" basswood at the moment. On a simple test engraving that came with the machine, I sealed the wood with Howard Wax-It-All. I applied two coats total and after it sat overnight, I wiped it with a clean microfiber cloth. I tried to apply tempera paint and wipe it off. ALL of the paint came off, even in the engraved area. I'm guessing this is due to the wax-based sealer? On my next test, I am coating a deeper engraving with Min-Wax water-based polycrylic. Hopefully that will work better. I did order Bulls Eye Shellac which will arrive next week. Your results look amazing here. Thank you again.
I have only used shellac but any wood sealer should do well. poly urethane too. The reason I use shellac is because it has a faster drying/ curing time. I also tend to use a cheap acrylic paint. I use cheap paint not because if the expense, but because it has a higher water content and less pigment. It is less likely to "stain" the wood when sealed. I get my color filling paint at Ocean State Job Lots, but you can also get some at the dollar store. Good luck. Would love to hear the results of your experiment!
i love u :) thank you :)
Your welcome. I hope it helps.
Beautiful!!! I wonder if you cut the holes for the wiro with your laser or you cut them with the binding machine
We cut the holes in the wood for the book but the paper in a binding machine. However, if you don't have a binding machine, you can cut out small round holes and hand sew your binding to make a beautiful handmade wood cover book!
@@1elephantmemories Thank you for your answer, very useful
@@Fancylooks You are very welcome. Have fun!
Great video 👍🏽
Thank you for sharing
New sub
Thanks for the sub! Would love to see what you do with this.
LOL... typical me... I was trying all sorts of fancy ways to try and mask off the area and then CNC engraving and then the masking tape will pull away meaning I have to try again and have to cut deeper... and then I come across this simple method that works surprising well. So thanks JoeAnn.
Glad it helped!
This is great! Thank you so much. Is there an alternative to Shellac that I can use outdoors? I have a project for an outdoor sign that has been engraved but the engraving is not poping enough. I was going to use your method, but apparently, Shellac is not recommended for outdoors. Or is there a coating that you can put over the shellac at the end to make the project more outdoor-friendly?
You can use a urethan that rated for outside. You might want to start with shellac though, just because it dries much faster. Once done, you can do coats of an outdoor rated product to seal it.
Great video! Do you cut wood with your laser? I want to know what you do with the black edges. Especially on intricate cuts. Thank you.
Hi Heather. I do cut with a laser. I typically leave the edges black as I often feel it gives a finished look as long as you have cleaned the burn residue from the top and bottom.
Thank you so much now to see how good I am haha
Just keep practicing. It is a lot of fun once you get the hang of it.
This is brilliant! Can I please ask what type of paint you used? I didn’t know it could just wipe off clean
I just use acrylic paint. I actually find that the cheaper paint works better. I think it has a higher water content and less pigment, so it is less likely to stain wood. Sealing the wood first is key to this process.
Wow! Love it! I’ve been playing my laser for sometime and I’m really bad at it lol. I love my books and have been trying to figure out if the coil binding machine is what will work. Do you have any advice on that?
Are you looking to make books with wooden covers?
Very nice. Are you able to build up enough paint so that the engraving is completely level with the surrounding wood surface? Or does the top coat level it?
It really depends on how deep your engraving is and what look you are going for. Now a days, if I want a level surface I put a clear top of a 2 part tabletop epoxy from Totalboat.
Will it work on plastic as well
Great video! I'm just starting out and have been looking at laser engravers but there are so many options! Any chance you can suggest one of your favorites?
We have an epilog mini 50 watt engraver. Great machine and excellent service.
I agree with Elephant Memories by JoBeMac Studios. Epilog makes high quality machines. They may be a little more costly, but they are definitely worth it. Over the years, I have advised 5 different shops to buy Epilog. Only 1 listened to me. All but that 1 have regretted it. One thing to be aware of, though.. if you purchase a CO2 laser system, the laser tube really should be fired up at least once per week to keep the gasses stable. I had a local shop call me for assistance when their machine wouldn't work. I asked them a few questions. They said everything is functioning as it should, but there is no active laser beam. After going down a checklist with them to rule out other potential problems, I asked when the last time the machine had been used. They said during COVID, it sat unused for 6 months. That was it. The tube was dead. I had them purchase a new laser tube from Epilog, and I helped them install and align it. It works fine now, but it cost them $1400 for the new tube... plus my fees. I advised them to set up a scheduled maintenance program where they run a vector cut into the steel tray (doing nothing) every Friday before closing IF they had not used the machine that week.
That sander really looked like a jitter bug (pad sander) and not an orbital! Cool video though!
It might be. I had only started woodworking several years before and more with a scroll and band saw. Always learning. Thank you.
love the ak print back ground i fly a male
Thank you!
Thank you for the video.
Why does the paint not come right out of the engraving when you wipe away the excess when you're not waiting for it to dry?
You are only wiping the surface. I try to use a very flat hand and not push down too hard. If the engraving is thin enough, I never have problems, but on areas that the engraving is quite wide, it will sometimes come off. This really isn't a problem as it is easy to go back in with a small brush and dab a little paint on it.
I don't know how many times I have watched this video, I am now working on the deep engrave from my laser for material that is the thickness of a quarter. I'll get it, just gotta test the settings in steps.
Experimenting is a huge part of this. Every laser is different and every wood type is different. Tight closed grains like maple and cherry work really well. The key is to seal your wood well. Multiple coats of shellac and let dry well. Good luck!
@@1elephantmemories OK more than one coat on may work ok thank you again
You welcome.
Thank you for this video. If I wanted to stain the wood, would you do that before painting? and would the sanding affect the would stain?
I would think you would stain before anything as she paint on top of the shellac.
If you are going to stain, try to seal the wood with shellac first, then a light hand sanding before adding the stain. Once the stain is dry, seal again with shellac, maybe even twice. Do you engraving, wipe off the burn, spray again with shellac and colorfill. Always test on some scrap wood first though.
Could you explain the process on color fill if I want to stain the wood. What kind of paint do you use. Great video thanks for sharing.
Jeff Peters
I use simple acrylic paint for everything. I plan on making a video with both the painted stain and colorfill. Basically, think in layers. Stain your wood first, seal it well, then color fill.
A trick I used to use (this was to fill machine engraved text) was to wrap a small flat plate with my paper towel (keep the paper towel flat), I was using paraffin as a solvent. Water should be fine tho, I would use the plate held flat on the work, wipe once, move to a clean area of paper towel, wipe again, usually three wipes will suffice. The idea is not to drag the paint out as much
Great tip!
Hi. Thanks for this.
I imagine it would work the same if the main wood was spray painted first?
It might. You will have to experiment. There is a possibility that you might still get some bleeding as if you just spray paint, then you are not sealing the grains that have been exposed by the engraving. However, that might now matter if the surface wood is sealed. Many of my projects have natural wood except the engraving part.
Any suggestions for how you would go about painting the background on a piece like this?
I think doing a good amount of the sealer on the painted wood first. I would also like the sealer actually cure rather than just dry. For shellac it is several days. Once cured, the paint wipes off even easier when colorfilling.
Thank you for this video! I have a question…does the shellac enable you to wipe off the excess easier?
The shellac seals the grains so you will get minimal bleeding. If the paint gets down into the grains, you will not be able to get it out. It also seals the surface which does make it easier to wipe off.
Thanks for the video. Since you are using acrylic paint, you still wipe it off with water? Thank you.
Yes. As long as you prepped your site well with the shellac.
Any tips on paint filling an engraving on wood that I want to be stained ebony? I'd like a nice contrast of black background and bright green colors for the fill
My best guess would be to stain your wood first. Once dry, engrave fairly deep. Then seal with multiple layers of shellac. You want it to be well sealed and very dry since you will not be sanding clean. Color fill and wipe clean. I haven't done this myself so you might want to do a test first. Good luck.
@@1elephantmemories thanks for the reply. Do you think I should use painters tape and engrave through it too?
Feel free to ask questions in the comments below.
Would polyurethane work similarly to shellac so the paint just wipes right off?
@@natashabruno8813 You can. I find shellac dries and cures faster. It is also less expensive where I live. Anything that will seal the wood and grain should do nicely.
Hey JoeAnn, Have you tried painting filling your engraving on wood thats already been painted and sealed? like if you have a white back round and want to colour in the letterin, maybe with premsk?
I have this same question. Did you try it?
I would paint the wood first, then seal really well with shellac and let it cure rather than dry before engraving and colorfilling. I am currently working on a new updated version and will try to include this.
OH! MY! GOD! This was so helpful. I literally just hand-painted every single letter in my first engraved sign, thinking I'd never do it again. This is a game changer. Questions...
If I want the wood stained a darker color, would I be able to do that after the paint? Or would the shellac prohibit me from doing that? I'm assuming I cannot do it before as we'd be sanding it off after applying the paint. Alos, rather than paint, what if I just wanted the engraved lettering a darker shade of the stain? My laser does not create the darkness of a hand-burned sign, but I want to achieve that look.. If you've worked with stains, I'd love your thoughts on how to fill the lettering with stain and apply a lighter stain over the entire piece...if that's possible. Again, thanks for such a great video. I', so excited to try this! -Shannon
Theirs a couple videos out right now about getting darker burns with a laser using baking soda or borax. Pretty sure the baking soda burns the darkest but it’s been a bit since I watched the video.
Different types of wood burn in different ways. Cherry and Mahogany leave a very nice looking dark burn. Maple is ok. Pine is not very good at all. Baltic birch plywood can also burn nicely. Experimenting is always key. You might try to do the colorfill with a brown color. Once you have done the process in the video, skip the adding the final finish. After you have filled the engraving, cleaned and let it dry. Sand the surface well but not deep or you will lose your engraving. Clean with a blast of air and wipe with a rag. Now try to stain the whole piece and see if that gives the effect you are looking for. This video is just a guide. It is a technique that I experimented with and works very well for me, but I really like to experiment with settings and products. Hope this helps.
Hello, do you seal the wood with shellac FIRST? then paint the engraving area? After adding color do you do a final seal with more shellac or another sealer to keep the paint from rubbing off?
Yes. You need to seal the wood or the paint will seep into the grains. The engraving needs to be sealed because it is giving access to the grains within the wood you just engraved. Let dry (the longer the better) Add color and wipe. Make sure the paint is fully dried before you sand or the dust will stick to the paint in the engraving. Once sanded you can then put your finish on. The finish can be shellac, polyacrylic or urethane. Experiment to see what works best for you.
I am very new with this a big beginner. Are you using regular paint brushes to add the paint to the surface? I know that sounds silly but I have no idea. Also do you have to use shellac? Wood varnish work? Thank you I enjoyed your work and I’m thrilled to learn how to do this. My son purchased me a beginners kit to keep my mind going lol
Sorry I am so late to the party. Not sure if you ended up answering your own question but yes, I just used inexpensive acrylic paint brushes. You want to use something that will actually seal the wood grains so the paint does not seep into them. That is what causes bleeding. Not sure varnish would work but experiment! Good luck.
Any chance that you could do a video of the shellac process as well?`:)
I will put it on my list. Shellac can be brushed on or sprayed on. I prefer the spray because it gives a nice even coat. Shellac comes in a spray can, or can be put into a paint sprayer. If you are just starting out, I would suggest trying the spray can. It is the easiest method. Clean your surface, then spray in a well ventilated area. I use a respirator when I spray. Good luck
loved this video could i do this on mdf as that is easier for me to get where i live
Interesting idea. Possibly, but I haven't tried it. Technically, as long as the fiber is sealed, it should work. Give it a try on some scrap. I would love to see how it turns out. I am working on an updated version of this subject to answer questions. I will have to give this a try myself! Good luck.
@@1elephantmemories thankyou will get sealer on Friday as dont live near town is it only shellac I can use
I prefer shellac because it has a fast dry and cure time. Shellac dries in minutes although I recommend waiting a few hours to overnight to really let it set. It cures in 7 days. You can use a polyurethane which dries quickly but still has a cure time of about 30 days. That does not mean you have to wait 30 days, I would wait at least overnight for a polyurethane. If these are not available, then experiment with what is. Take some scrap wood and try a few different products and try filling at different times. Example, try doing a fill at 1 hour, 3 hours and overnight, then compare the results. The goal is to seal the grains so you won't get bleeding or discolor the surface. Good luck.
@@1elephantmemories thankyou I will let you know how I get on much appreciated as I'm new to lasering got the otur master3 10 watt
Thanks for the video! I want to paint a piece red with gold lettering that is already engraved in the wood. Would I paint the red, seal it then back fill the lettering with the gold color and wipe away as you have shown in this tutorial?
Yes you can!
Ah shellac! I use food coloring for some stain and it bleeds everywhere 🤪
You just need a good wood sealer. Shellac is my go to, but I have heard you can you a good polyurethane too. Anything that will penetrate down into the grains. Have fun@
Hi ,
Thank your video, It s really helpfull.
Could you write your engrave parameter ?
Speed and Power ?
Every laser is different. I like to go with a slow speed and high power. I usually do at least 3 passes. I have an Epilog Mini 50 Watt. I usually go with 45 speed, 100 power, 400 dpi
For the segment where you are filling the text with paint, is the wood surface treated in any type of way so that the paint does not soak in and is able to be wiped away?
Yes. I pre treat the wood with Shellac after engraving (or CNC or hand carving). Let dry then colorfill.
awesome video. Where do you get your paints from? (brand)
I use acrylic paints. If I am at walmart or michaels, I get folk art but I do shop around and get inexpensive paints. Ocean State Job Lots has really good prices. I am not sure if the brand matters but it might be an interesting experiment!
What bit did you use for the lettering. liked how you did the coloring in the letters, but do you use the same technique for coloring in a character.
I use this for anything I want to color fill. Text is easy, but if I am color filling a thicker design, I will often have to go back and hand paint the middle parts as they often wipe off when I am cleaning.
Should you stain prior to engraving or your suggested techniques. Thanks
If you are going to stain, try to seal the wood with shellac first, then a light hand sanding before adding the stain. Once the stain is dry, seal again with shellac, maybe even twice. Do you engraving, wipe off the burn, spray again with shellac and colorfill.
Can this process be used on stone engraving? and possibly sealed with epoxy?
I haven't tried it on stone, but as long as the shellac seals well enough I think it would work. Test out on a small smooth rock. You will want your engraving to be on the deep side so the shellac won't just fill the engraving. Or maybe try to seal the rock first with shellac then try the color fill. I hope it works out!
Great tutorial! Do you happen to know the name of the script font you used?
Lavanderia Regular
Machbar24 is correct. I had to look it up.
Do you apply the Shellac before the engraving?
You don't have to but you can. I will often prep wood to fit in my laser (12x24) by cutting it to size, a quick sand and a spray with shellac on both sides, then set it aside until I need to use it. Shellac dries in minutes but takes 7 days to fully cure which is still faster than most urethanes that takes 30 days to cure. The most important step is to add the shellac after the engraving to really seal the grains that have become exposed after engraving. I have a new video out on colorfilling with a mica powder instead of paint. The results were really stunning. You might want to check that out too.
Thank you for the tutorial, can we want paint the wood after the filling process? Or before? And .thank you again
I plan on making an advanced color fill and painting tutorial in the near future. I you are looking to do both (color fill the engraving and paint the unengraved wood), I always do the colorfill first. Think of it in layers. Do the farthest layer or back layer first. That way when you sand after the colorfill you will not sand the painted wood. Once you put paint on the unengraved wood, you do not want to sand unless you are going for a weathered look. Good luck.
The Average JoeAnn 🙏
The Average JoeAnn thank you
If you want to add painted detail on the non engraved surface, I generally do that after the color filling since you have to sand the wood. Once the color fill is done and well dried. Sand, then seal again with shellac. Then you can paint the wood surface.
@@1elephantmemories Hi thanks for your tutorial. I am tring to higlight the indented logo on a box that has special meaning for someone. It's embossed as cigar boxes often are, so not very deep. I wanted to paint the box white and just highlight the logo. So, if varnish the box (I've already painted it white - didnt' read this until after) and then paint the logo as you suggest and wipe off excess, letting dry of course as you say, how do I repaint/touch up the box white without screwing up the lettering again?
Do you spray shellac down into your engraving?
I spray the entire surface, including the engraving. This will help to prevent the paint from seeping into the open grains.
Could you please tell me how you engrave these. What you use for engraving tools to create this. Templates and tools? I haven't watched the whole video maybe you say it but just would love to know. These are so fun!
I have a laser engraver. You can use a CNC or even hand carve.
Are you spraying with the Shellac prior to painting or afterwards, thanks.
I do both. I like to prep my wood as soon as I get it so it is ready to go when I need it. Spray again after so you seal the grains that have been exposed by the laser.
Hi, could I ask what you use to do the engraving
I have a laser engraver.
Two questions, if I may. When you say to engrave deep, how do you do that? and how long do you leave the coloring before wiping it off?
I engrave deep by doing high power, low speed, then adjust the focus and do multiple passes. Try for 1/16" - 1/8" depth. That should give you plenty of elbow room for sanding. If you are doing thin engraving like letters, then colorfill and wipe right off. I don't really let it dry. If it is a design and has thicker areas, you will notice that the paint wipes out of that area. Just go back with a small brush after you have wiped off and carefully fill in those areas. I am working on an updated version of this that answers a lot of these questions. Feel free to ask away if you need to :)
What could use to fill up the engravings completely to create a smooth surface on the acrylic
?
You could fill it in with epoxy resin. Just do your research if it is going to have food contact. There are resins that, once cured, are food contact safe. I use Totalboat Makerpoxy by Jess Crow. If you go to totalboat.com you can use the promo code: elephantmemories to get 15% off your first order.
I am planning on adding a color fill on some metal parts and equipment that has serial numbers and other engravings on it.
They are a solid black metal that has been laser etched and other engraved and I want use a bright blue color on it. So its really that simple?
I am not sure if acrylic paint and a wood sealer would work. Maybe look into Gun blue or Machinist blue marking dye. Not my expertise though. Good luck