Awesome content as always. Very concise and clearly done. My husband has been climbing for abt 20yrs and I just got started. We do mostly trad and while he can rely primarily on his strength to pull through, I cannot. I love him but he's not a big help when teaching energy efficient crack climbing technique. Your videos are very helpful and much appreciated since there are very few that feature this type of practical application. Thank you and please keep them coming. Any plans for a video showing emergency rope ascension (while seconding or rappelling) just using basic gear?😉
Thank you! Good for you that you have an experienced climber handy for your initiation to trad climbing 😉 Glad the videos are helpful. Many more to come! We've been wanting to make a rope ascension video for a while, hopefully we'll get a chance to do one soon enough.
Great content as always! I know the crack is super straight but even so you can see how much that first cam rotated upwards just by climbing by it with no extension. BD C4s with their short, stiff nylon slings are especially prone to walking in my experience. I now greatly prefer the new Wild Country Friends for a similar size range and cam type as C4s for the backbone of my rack. They have extendable dyneema slings that are more flexible and longer, which combined with stiffer cam springs and wider lobes keep them in my desired placement much, much better. I very often clip them direct on splitter cracks with no walking. Whenever I place a BD C4, even in a perfectly straight crack unless I'm super desperate at a crux or something, I will put at least a short quickdraw on it because they dance all over the place otherwise.
Thanks! Here is Roddy's reply: Yes, Wild Country cams are great! The C4s are a bit stiff, but they’re what I’m used to. With regard to extensions to prevent walking/rotation, sometimes I won’t extend the piece if I just want it to protect that move. If it’s important to me that it doesn’t rotate later (or generate rope drag), then I’ll extend it. Totally depends on the scenario.
Just got done with a trip in j tree. Could have used some of these techniques while climbing. Lead a few at intersection rock such as bat cave and Mike's books and they were really tough because my technique was lacking a bit haha
This channel is criminally underrated
I'm loving the content, this is climbing gold here! :)
Awesome content as always. Very concise and clearly done. My husband has been climbing for abt 20yrs and I just got started. We do mostly trad and while he can rely primarily on his strength to pull through, I cannot. I love him but he's not a big help when teaching energy efficient crack climbing technique. Your videos are very helpful and much appreciated since there are very few that feature this type of practical application. Thank you and please keep them coming. Any plans for a video showing emergency rope ascension (while seconding or rappelling) just using basic gear?😉
Thank you! Good for you that you have an experienced climber handy for your initiation to trad climbing 😉 Glad the videos are helpful. Many more to come! We've been wanting to make a rope ascension video for a while, hopefully we'll get a chance to do one soon enough.
Consistently impressed by the quality of this channel! Thank you.
What was the name of these two climbs?
Thank you! The climbs are "Palmreader" and "Touch and Go."
Great content as always!
I know the crack is super straight but even so you can see how much that first cam rotated upwards just by climbing by it with no extension. BD C4s with their short, stiff nylon slings are especially prone to walking in my experience. I now greatly prefer the new Wild Country Friends for a similar size range and cam type as C4s for the backbone of my rack. They have extendable dyneema slings that are more flexible and longer, which combined with stiffer cam springs and wider lobes keep them in my desired placement much, much better. I very often clip them direct on splitter cracks with no walking. Whenever I place a BD C4, even in a perfectly straight crack unless I'm super desperate at a crux or something, I will put at least a short quickdraw on it because they dance all over the place otherwise.
Thanks! Here is Roddy's reply:
Yes, Wild Country cams are great! The C4s are a bit stiff, but they’re what I’m used to. With regard to extensions to prevent walking/rotation, sometimes I won’t extend the piece if I just want it to protect that move. If it’s important to me that it doesn’t rotate later (or generate rope drag), then I’ll extend it. Totally depends on the scenario.
This channel is so good!
Thank you!
Your great enjoy your explanations and how clear your videos are fantastic camera work. Would love to see a solo belay while top roping.
Thank you! A video about top-rope soloing wasn't planned but it would be interesting to cover that.
Just got done with a trip in j tree. Could have used some of these techniques while climbing. Lead a few at intersection rock such as bat cave and Mike's books and they were really tough because my technique was lacking a bit haha