StickClip Rope Solo Climbing (SCRS)
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- After the TRS (Top Rope Solo) and the LRS (Lead Rope Solo), here is the SCRS (StickClip Rope Solo). Climbing like you have never seen before. Let me know in the comments if you have seen this with similar redundancy before. And if it can be better. Or tell us your epic!! People doing similar usualy rely on a single bolt. But bolts fail as shown in these links:
stick clip bolt to bolt rope solo climbing
publications.am...
www.mountainpr...
climbingnarc.c...
By the way I am not the first #8 here describes exactly: ukbouldering.c...
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I got this question:
"interesting that you had trouble clipping at one point. How do you retreat when you cannot reach the next bolt? In a lead climb you would just leave a carabiner, add a prussik so that your max fall is to your nearest quickdraw. Like this you are not dependent on a single bolt."
Excellent point! The self rescue is not so easy. Here is what I recommend:
The situation:
- You are clipped to a bolt in short (sling)
- Also to one higher bolt with end of rope and rope grab
- You don't manage to clip the next bolt up there and want to retreat
The Self-rescue:
General idea: LRS to the high bolt to set yourself up for a rappel using 2 bolts
1- Clip the rope that goes to the high bolt to the bolt in front of you with maybe 30cm of slack
2- Take enough rope (same strand) to reach the next bolt and clip yourself to the rope with a clove hitch (you will easily adjust it if you need more rope to reach the next bolt)
3- Unclip the 60cm sling and ascend to high bolt (you are attached to the high bolt through the rope grab and to the lower bolt with a strand of rope)
NOTE: if you can stickclip the next bolt from here, you can just continue your SRS!!! Otherwise:
4- Take the end of the rope that you took care of not using and feed the rope through the glue-in OR in a carabine (case of bolt hanger) until the half rope
5- Put ATC and prusik (or Munter and prusik) to rappel on 2 strands, take end of rope back leave nothing (except maybe 1 carabiner) and start rappelling
6- when you get to lower bolt, clip ONLY ONE strand of your rappel rope to a carabiner to the bolt (providing a backup should the high bolt fail)
7- take all other gear with you and finish the rappel.
What do you think??
Thanks for asking. You should always have an idea of how to self-rescue if you have to. I thought of this possibility but was too lazy to put together the method 😉 Now it is done!!
Hello Yann, excellent video. My method for bailing out is essentially the same as yours, but when I am in the lower bolt i give the upper bolt a vigorous bounce test, it takes a few seconds and gives me peace of mind, For lowering from a bolt hanger I either use a maillon rapide or a biner closed with tape. Thank you for your quality output
@@fernandosanz4422 Yea some people bounce test. Good idea really. In my opinion closing with tape is not needed because you are going nowhere when loaded. Makes it easy to unclip on lead for the next climber... Also the maillon is not recommended for the same reason. And clipping in a hanger with a maillon has caused to break the carabiners during a lead fall. Don't have the link. Someone can send to me by PM? (I would repost here...) Thanks!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Good points, thanks a lot
@Yann Camus BlissClimbing When you say 1-Clip the rope to the bolt, do you mean with a quickdraw? Or with a butterfly knot and carabiner?
Feels like the fall will still be a factor 2 fall if the high bolt fails while you are climbing up to it?
@@fredm8621 Yes: a butterfly knot and locking carabiner. Yes: you risk a factor 2 fall here if the high bolt fail. But at least you are attached and should survive, right?
A more simple approach, albeit slightly riskier, is to climb it as a LRS, but using a stick clip. You simply clip the next bolt from the previous bolt, then top rope or ascend up to it while pulling in slack on your capture device
that's how I do it as well
LRS works: it was always what I recommended.
I always love your videos, no wonder why Andy Kirkpatrick quotes you. Man you are a genius. The only slightly naughty comment I'll indulge in is: I prefer pronouncing tiblock as the French pronounce P'tit block which is the shortened version of petit block rather than tie-block. I'll doing some solo top roping on Wednesday but luckily enough I'll be able to abseil from the top of the crag. I bought myself a Roll'n Lock last year after seeing your comments on it but I still have a shunt which I use often with double ropes but I also use a back up hitch. Most single pitch climbs here in France are over-bolted so your Stickclip method would be most convenient and once you are at the top after all that toil, you could traverse and use other lines too and spend all day climbing on your own. Thank you again Yann.
Thanks!!! :-) Happy you enjoy my content 🙂
This works only if you have three bolts within reach. In my experience that's not always the case, especially on routes that are not so closely bolted.
You need 2. But I get what you mean! Look at the pinned comment with the self-rescue method. There is a hint for you there
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing , well, three if you include the one you are at ;) (that's what I meant)
I use 1 bolt and 1 slide locker(edelrid).
Yes, not redundant, but for Aid climbing, I've found this safe.
@@DavideRoverso ok I get it... See the pinned comment for a way around it OR bail...
@@ClimbingEasy see 3 links to accidents involving fixed anchors failures. Safe but unsafe really...
Wow, this video is just what I need. I had been doing something else less secure but top rope solo belaying myself - which means I'd have to descend and strip out and re-ascend. If I can use some of this technique it may mean I only need to travel upwards once. THANK YOU! I will watch the video several times
I am happy you like it!!
Been clipping my way up sport routes for 15 years, to set up my TR Solo. I very rarely encounter climbs I want to do that can be accessed easily from the top. Its my favorite way to check out potential projects as well.
@@baybaymaus cool! Do you ever rely on a single bolt momentarily? Or do you tend to always be on 2 bolts like I try to do in the video? Or do you « aid-LRS » your way up self belaying with a bottom belay anchor?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I clip a figure 8 in a bight to a steel locker and put that on the first bolt. I then clip up to the next bolt with a quick draw, jug up with an ascender and a gri gri, go in-direct, then repeat, until I get to the anchors. I will always be on one bolt, plus the original locking biner with the figure 8, plus I will be on the bolt i'm in direct to, or, until I go back on the rope, as I progress to the next bolt/quickdraw. If, for example, the third bolt failed, I would take a factor 2 fall on to the second bolt, but with the rope, not a sling. It would be very bad, but I wouldn't hit the ground. If that same bolt failed while I was pulling slack to clip to the next bolt, I would take a similar fall, but it would be longer. It's hard to explain. I should probably just make a video.
@@baybaymaus if you end up making a video, please contact me through my website BlissClimbing.com. I can post the link to your video here for others to watch. You cannot because you don’t own this video here and YT will not allow your comment. Makes sense? I think I understand what you describe. Do you think my method has an advantage? As both of us must reach between 2 bolts? Right?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Your method is perhaps slightly safer and more redundant, but I believe my margin for safety is acceptable enough for most people. Mine allows me to set up quite quickly. I have encountered many bolts that I did not feel comfortable with (old/rusted/tipped out, etc) in which case I will "down clean" and exit the route rather than risk a bolt failure and a factor 2 fall. In my area we are starting to replace most old bolts with glue ins, which if installed properly, have a very low likelihood of failure, as you know quite well i'm sure. I am a rope access professional so I typically have a low tolerance for unnecessary risk, but I think the method I use is a good compromise between convenience/ease of use/ and safety. If I make a video I will reach out to you via your website. Thank you for all of your content. Excellent stuff.
@@baybaymaus Sounds great! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Congratulations!! 😃👍I'm a bit nervous about your clipstick. I'd clip the carabiner at the line of the last rope, in order to keep it safe and not loose. Thank you for your work🤗👏👏👏
I am not sure I understand what makes you nervous. Can you explain a bit more? Thanks!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Hi again, my preocupación is the posibility of loose the clipstick. You couldn't keep climbing. Sorry for my english🙏😔
@@antoniocabanillas2484 makes sense!! You could bail (see pinned comment)…
@@antoniocabanillas2484 the beta designs stickclip has a hole for a carabiner. I use it to clip it into the harness when ascending. I also clip the rope into that carabiner when clipping the bolt. Like this if I drop the stick after it's clipped the bolt it will go down to my harness. If I drop it before it is clipped, the figure eight and the carabiner on the rope end should stop it. Makes sense?
Oh I’ve been wanting a guide on how to do this with safety!!! It’s something I do sometimes but only on really easy sport routes
So this video was for you then! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks a lot for your video Yann! I've just order UltraLong clip stick 6.5m long to make sure I've no issues reaching the second bolt lol
Ok please report back!!
I did the same, with a beta designs "monster" stick clip. I found the weight of the rope is a little too heavy to use the last two thin extensions of the stickclip, so you don't get the full 6.5m. It's still probably the best solution. It allowed me to skip the first two bolts 🙂.
I also found it's more of a faff to clip anchors that are joined by a chain as the hole is already "busy" with the chain. I clipped the rappel ring with both ropes to get around that (luckily there was one).
@@fredm8621 That is all good beta right there! Thanks for reporting back!
Hey Yann! Nice, thanks for your effort! I see some issues where I climb, most of the time the bolts are very far away compared to this example. But I will give it a try if I find a good project!
Obviously you will need to LRS if a long-enough stickclip is impossible... By the way what is the longest stickclip ever?? I wonder!
Imagine trying this on the runout slabs of val di mello. That massive stick clip wouldn’t span a single bolt space!
Obviously... In that case LRS is your only option.
Nice two rope update 🎉
Thank you.
Very nice climb, very good work, bravo!
Merci encore André!
Went to do SRS yesterday. One of the minor issues is that doing backup knots on the rope wasn't very handy. Or you have to do them quite low down the rope. Once at a bolt you need to pull the rope through up to the second bolt, so any backup knots not tied far enough in the rope get in the way and must be untied.
Best thing is once you've clipped up to the higher bolt, then add a back up knot 1metre lower down.
As bolts sometimes tend to get further away the higher up you go, you might have to untie and retie that backup knot a little further down.
If that makes sense?
That all makes sense! The backup knots are the failsafe and can be far. That way you should be ok never adjusting them (or seldom as you point out). Good job! Makes sense?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Certainly does thanks!
Très beau travail.
Merci beaucoup!!
Just commenting to help your channel. Blocked rappel is my favorite way to get down. I'm not a huge fan of atc's.
Thanks man!! I use blocked rappel most often. Only recently after 200+ successful rappels: I had one 100% jam on me I had to get back up to retrieve it! I have to make a video about it because the way it jammed was not intuitive…
Hey I've been doing this, but with one stick clip, edelrid slide locker, 10m static, 2 ascenders and ladder.
As discussed with you on another comment, your system is maybe not as safe (lack of redundancy in some parts). As I put in the description of this video, bolts fail and especially one bolt failure claimed the life of a stickclip-bolt-to-bolt soloist... Take care!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thank you Yann,
As I stated on the other one; you are 100% correct, my method it is not redundant. Mainly because any one fixed placement should not be trusted; I agree.
There is a way, I like your 2/3 bolt SRS system.
There is a way to combo all of this. Lead Rope Solo, but stick clip aid climbing. IE: fixed bottom anchor, backpack rope fed to lead clip, like LRS, as you ascend a stick clipped static rope.
This would be hard to do hanging in free space and a few other scenarios. But there you go; a quickeish way to single bolt SRS, that still has safety redundancy. Cuz if you fall, due to a bolt breaking, it would just be like a lead rope solo fall.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing
BTW; big fan, love all the videos!
To me this method seems overly complicated with a very large number of transitions. I prefer to Stickclip rope solo in a similar way to lead rope solo, with the rope fixed at the bottom, one Grigri backed up by a Microtraxion, and a Jumar for pulling me up. I never have to unclip any device (except the jumar that is there only for progression)
Sure you can do that! Probably more simple if you know how to LRS to begin with. But if you have 2 micro Traxions and no grigri, this method might be better. Note that you could replace the grigri by a clove hitch... Thanks for the comment!
Sure that works. But what if you want to TR solo with a static rope instead, and want to carry only 1 rope to the crag?
@@mitzifinn I believe the simple way is to use just the 2 rope ends and a tether. Put the Micro Traxion on one strand and the grigri on the other strand. Each strand goes to a different bolt. Makes sense? See at 1:56 .
⚠ EASIER METHOD TO GO DOWN ⬇
... use your skis 😆
LOL
SRS up, SKI down!
Tu as de belles bottes!
Ahahaha!!!! Bien chaudes en plus!!! Ahahaha!