The (Rope) Soloist's Craft: a 5.13a Onsight on a Stunning Multi-Pitch Route
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- For more details on my lead rope soloing methods, or to stay tuned to recent ascents, see my blog at: www.brentbarghahn.com
Many thanks to La Sportiva and EDELRID for supporting my climbing pursuits!
Route Info: Golden Dog in Sedona, AZ www.mountainproject.com/route/119775320/the-golden-dog
Music by Donald XL Robertson - Inner Peace - thmatc.co/?l=C3052955
Music by Donald XL Robertson - Dreams - thmatc.co/?l=DC32DEC9
0:00 Intro
0:35 Gearing Up
1:50 Pitch 1, 10c
2:15 Pitch 2, 12a
4:06 Pitch 3, 12a
5:25 Pitch 4, the 13a Crux!
19:33 Pitch 5, 10a
19:44 Summit Thoughts
#rock #climbing #multipitch #solo #ropesolo #leadropesolo #Sedona #LaSportiva #EDELRID
![Sending 5.13c without a Belayer [How I Climb Alone]](/img/n.gif)
super rad brent! most people don't understand just how hard onsight LRSing is, this is an awesome achievement. badass
Thanks for posting, Brent.
This climb was special for me too. It is named for my late best friend - he and I spent many lovely days together up at this wall. I’m glad you had a good one up there too - your video had me smiling. ✌️
Crazy to think you did all of this while also recording it so well
Didn’t even think about that
I never knew how badly I needed this whole new genre of video: absolute bonecrushing to fall asleep to
Incredible. Really nice job!
Excellent LRS video, well done
Loving these videos Brent. You are ticking off some incredible lines and doing them in style. Good work man!
Absolute respect mate, bold but worth it!
super stout! - and such a thoughtful system. loved the play-by-play too...
What an amazing route
I love this route. My proudest OS in Arizona. Nice work, Brent!
Amazing! Thank you!
Just found your channel. I enjoy your commentary. It's actually really helpful in thinking about sending harder routes. Hearing your process is educational.
Please keep up this content. Top tier climbing content
Great camera angle/editing and even more impressive climbing. Blow by blow account is really helpful.
Fantastic Brent!
Thanks, Bergen! Glad this made it to you. Hope you are well!
Enjoyed that, nicely filmed (no jerky head-cam). I have not rope-soloed, it appears the difficulties presented by the route itself are amplified by managing the rope-solo system.
Take! Oh wait... I'm definitely getting into LRS.
Bitd when I did LRS with just knots and no device I used to keep the rope on my harness, but as soon as the grigri came out I switched to stacking the rope in a backpack and have been doing that ever since. Much prefer it given you're carrying the rope either way. Also, the routes at the areas I climb at tend to wander about and have snags for a hanging rope. Yeah, there is the lower center of gravity thing with it on your harness, but over time I more than got used to having it in a pack and can't imagine going back to having it hanging from my harness. But we each have to figure out what works for us.
Radness, mystical way to honor the vortex!
Great!
So sick
badass man
Beautiful corner switchback 18:41
Super rad! Been thinking about a move to Flag. How has it been climbing through the last winter-pocalypse?
Mega!!
Any detailed videos on your setup?
Impressive climb, as usual! Great filming, too. Can you please tell me how you deal with the rope friction against the rock while jummaring the dynamic rope? What brand is your 8.9mm rope? Thanks!
It is an EDELRID 8.9mm Protect rope. I just refix below edges and other abrasion risks a few times per pitch on rappel, prior to the jummar following
I was also a young midwesterner stuck in an office
That looked remarkably safe
Hi Brent, great video!! What device are you using for your rope solos?
This is a GriGri+. See my other videos and links in the descriptions for more details on the setup
@@brentbclimbs awesome thanks man!
how do you keep a camera steady up there? crazy.
Certified class 2 Fun
what's you camera setup at the base? is your cam auto following u?
I have a ZV-E10 with a wide angle lens. I shoot in 4K, but use a 1080p timeline and do the tracking effects in post.
Where do you get the bungee draw? I looked for them years ago and could never find them, and just accepted the rope solo heard catch lol. Please direct me!!
It is a homemade recipe, details are here: www.brentbarghahn.com/design-projects/rope-solo-accessories
@@brentbclimbs hell yeah thanks. Those pics on your page explain everything. I messed with screamers like 10yrs ago, but their limited uses was always the big deterrent. Have you noticed these bungees wearing over time? This one piece of the puzzle has long alluded me lol, so thanks so much for the beta!
@@FooDawg As long as you size the limiter sling to be within the working stretch range of your specific bungee (2x for the Perfect Bungee), there should be minimal deterioration over time
@@brentbclimbs Ok awesome! Thanks again for the reply! Great sends btw!
@@brentbclimbshave you checked out the dynamic slings or dynamic cordelette?
Do you train to be strong enough to do this by LRS or do you train another way?
I primarily climb with a partner, or boulder if I want to train solo. This is just a goofy side pursuit for when I am bored or want an extra adventure!
what belay device and system are you using ?
Check out my systems here: www.brentbarghahn.com/climbing-blog/redpoint-rope-soloing-2021 I've updated some small details of the system, but it is still generally the same strategy
What system do you recommend for a crag RS?
Check out my other videos, I have one with details of a sport crag rope solo setup
what shoes do you have on?
Those are La Sportiva Katanas. My favorite flat foot edging shoe!
Shit no rope drag either??
A bit of extra rope weight starting a pitch, but no drag through the protection since the rope isn't being pulled through. Can be a nice feeling at the top of a long wandery pitch!