Removing rust and pitting from motorcycle forks with 2000 grit sandpaper and WD-40.
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- čas přidán 17. 07. 2024
- This seems to have done the trick, pretty bloody painfull doing it though!
Waddya reckon?
sealmate vid: • Sealmate Fork Seal cle...
#sealmate #pittedforks #forks #wd40
Hi Billy I’m going to try this on my Triumph Tiger 800 XC - I tried the aluminum foil method and it removed most of the rust but I still have stubborn pits that feel need a more abrasive material like the 2000 grit sandpaper you suggested. I’ll give it a go and then let you know. Think I’m going to wipe them down with silicone spray when I’m finished. Your thoughts?
Hello Scott, good luck mate, i think the 2000 grit method is the safest bet, bit of spray wont hurt but obviously keep it well away from your discs and callipers, i know you know that already, but i wish someone told me that years ago… dont ask me why 😬
@@billy4rocks yes def will avoid all other parts. I spray the silicone right onto the shop towel. Yeah whatever your experience was years ago was probably like getting water on the rims of ten speed bikes of the eighties when we were kids - rubber brakes 🤦♂️
@@billy4rocks worked like a charm. I just finished - unfortunately our local hardware only had 1500 grit but I took my time and cannot believe how smooth the fork is now. I also made my own sealmate out of a used milk container. I am good to go - thx again brother for sharing this video - love the self commentary 😊
@@ScottHylandSr ahh nice one, glad you sorted it, thanks for sharing, much appreciated. ✊
I just sanded down part of mine on my dirt bike but I used 600 grit and the scratch is still there am I screwed
I was just thinking before you put it all back together get some protection on it then you said it 😂😂. Great work billy. 👌
Bro, you look just like MCRider but across the pond. I was genuinely convinced it was a second channel until I heard your voice. Awesome.
Haha, im gonna have to check that handsome bastard out!
Bloody Brilliant job Billy! 👍 Cheers... Mark
Cheers Mark, hope your well mate. ✊
Well done Billy. I've used similar methods. I agree with using super-fine 2000 sandpaper. One thought, make sure to use wet/dry sandpaper and use ACF-50 instead of the WD-40 (which is mostly solvent) and use lots of it to carry away the particles (as in wet sanding). We use ACF-50 on aircraft and it has a life of at least two years. Cheers! -Kirby
Cheers Kirby, top tips. 🙏
Gonna do this for my bike it has some bad pitting after I tried the tin foil method 😅
Well that worked out great! 👍 Yeah, those fasteners never seem to come out as easily as in the magic world of CZcams haha! 😆
The biggest problem with this method of rust/pitting removal is that the damage is already there and just removing the surface imperfections will not be enough to stop it recuring.
All you're really doing is removing high/low spots without actually addressing the real problem. The chrome on the fork stanchions is already damaged and is no longer providing the protection it should be as its already pitted and removing the high spots is removing more of its protective coating making the problem worse.
The only real solution here is to get the stanchions re-chromed which will probably be a better quality of Chrome than the original and will undoubtedly be thicker than standard. while It may be a more expensive solution, it'll be a lot cheaper than having to replace the stanchions with new ones and will certainly last longer.
Nice one Billy, mine's just the same so will be doing this soon! 👍
Cheers Tony, feels like a bit of a extreme measure, but it does smooth the pitting out.
I just used a 3M abrasive pad on my slightly pitted bicycle fork but it also took the chrome shine off in the process. Should have used a finer pad..hopefully I can get the shine back with some 2000 grit and metal polish.
Hi Billy, love the channel. Same issue, on my 2015. Quick question, do you have any slight lateral movement on your rear wheel? It has come up a couple of times on my MOT. A couple of years ago, Triumph said it was OK. However, another mechanic has suggested that I have it investigated. Any thoughts? Cheers, Howard
Hello Howard, thankyou. It’s never something that has been mentioned to whilst getting the bike MOT’d though I do recall reading somewhere that shaft drives (maybe not all) do in there nature have some lateral movement in them, that was a while back.
2000 grit, #0000 grade wire wool, all good 👍. Just done exactly same job on my 02 XL 1000 Varadero. As a finishing touch I did a final polish with a bit of Autosol n they looked mighty. Final application was a bit of restorers crystalline wax. It’s a hard wax n helps fill any tiny pits n prevent seepage of oil n ingress of muck n water. Great video n nice to know I’m not the only one not willing to run out n buy new forks 👍👍👍
Nice one, thanks for the letting us know. Might treat myself to some of that wax. Cheers.
I just did that on my dirt bike but I used 600 grit cuz I didn’t know any better did I just ruin my fork leg. (The scratch is still there)
I had the same bolt head problem with the bottom one that holds the inner part of the schock. Took me 2 weeks to try everything and then some to get it out.
Bastard bloody things.
is worth trying a rust converter, after you have taken the high spots off, which ruin the seals by abrasion ?
Not sure, possibly
Good job well done there Billy must remember that one and try it on my old Magna : )
Ohh nice, i like those, is it the V65? I had my on one of those before i got my first V-Max.
@@billy4rocks Hi yeh the V65 the V Max was a deal quicker if I remember correctly .
Getting on mines tonight bought grit and metal.polosher, you think i still need to replace seal afterwards or give it a clean with sealmate will get it done, ive cleaned many times but as long as theres scratches gona keep leaking rights? so im wondering if its to late and need to replace the seal
It wont hurt to try and clean the seal out with a seal mate, Im pretty sure you can even make your own out off plastic milk cartons, if you don’t already have one.
Lastly I'm I basically passing grit until it is completely smooth before applying thr metal polish?
What also works nicely is a lenght of cotton cloths line ..36"..??wrap clothesline around chrome..a little WD-40..see saw line back and forth..cleans in 369°at a time ..also can be worked into those tight had to reach spots sand paper can't get too..😎👍😎
Nice, cheers Jerry. 🙏🙏
Did it dull your chrome finish though?
Not really, 2000 is very smooth.
Nice tip mate.. It may turn up on my 800 one day. 😊☕🇳🇴
Cheers, though i cant take credit for it, merely borrowing from CZcams, though i must say i do add a certain air of glamour to the proceedings. 😂💩
@@billy4rocks you are up for "the real Hollywood housewifes" your glamour are unmatched😄😄😄
maybe hit it again with 2550 and then 3000. I could see how dull the left fork became. This step up will eliminate more of the scratches left behind from the 2000. Also use a better lubricant
What lubricant would you suggest? And are you related to Alister Crowley?.
@@billy4rocks yes, that's my great grandpa. Just kidding!
I use water and dish soap.. Actually, I would investigate to see if there is something better. I use soap/h2o for paint, clear coats, urethane, etc. Water is a great lubricant. U can even use a spray wax..
@@user-ik4fd9ny4b thanks Mr Crowley.
The part of the stanchions that you are doing is not the part that the seals are running on.... 🤔
Not according to the potholes in London.
Bodge job billy! 😂
I take great pride in it. 😂
Some poeple over tighten bike bolts to the extreme
I bought my SR500 eight years ago with 64,000 kilometres on it and it had had one of these heavy handed owners and every time I'd work on it I would find things that were ridiculously overtightened often beyond the point of destruction
After doing 80,000 kilometres I've got it pulled apart again and among many other things I'm replacing six of the square nuts that were welded to frame where the engine plates mount, I've done five and I'm just about to go out and weld the last one inplace, I had done the six of them but wasn't happy with two of them so cut them back off and I'm redoing them
The only other things that will still remain of this heavy handedness will be the two stretched studs at the bottom of the left-hand fork boot that clamp the front axle in place
Until moisture gets to it and it starts to bloom again, once chrome is compromised…
Wouldn’t you say it was compromised anyway? Or is a literal case of polishing a turd?
I’d say you’re polishing a turd @@billy4rocks if your chrome is pitted, the only rear cure is a re chrome, expensive but then so is a fork rebuild every year and the re chrome will be better than the crap it came from the factory with
I don't know why they call it " sand paper " when there is no sand, they should name it " wet and dry emery paper " which does not clog up, when it is used wet.and does not fall to peices by water, the manufacturers, should copperr plate the steel, then nickel plate it, then crome plate it, then it would not get rusty, crome is not water proof, but the manufacturers, do not want to spend more money on things, they do not want them to last longer, they want you to throw things away, so that you will buy another one, for more money.
I feel the same way about cheesecake.
@@billy4rocks a bit like the meat pie we had at school, no meat just gristle and gravy inside.
@@billy4rocks we use to have " windmill pudding " if there was enough to go around.
we use to think that sand paper packets, were A-Z of the sahara desert.
@@daibhiseaghdha153 haha, excellent
I was just thinking before you put it all back together get some protection on it then you said it 😂😂. Great work billy. 👌
Cheers Ian ✊✊👍