How to REMOVE HEADLIGHT OXIDATION Without a Sander or Drill! | 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2023
- Hello Everyone! In this video I am going in depth on how you can remove Oxidation and old clear coat on a headlight, saving you both time, and money. Many methods out there are still using sanders or drills to do this step in the restoration process, when its overkill! Oxidation on most headlights doesn't penetrate as deep as you think, leading to excessive amounts of sanding with power tools causing you to go thru multiple sanding disc, and an excessive amount of tape. I wanted to show you in real time how quickly you can remove oxidation and old clear coat as long as you're using the right technique, and starting grit. Keep it mind, I am talking about oxidation and old clear coat removal, the first step in restoring a headlight. Yes, you may need a power tool to polish and get to a finer state of headlight depending on what method you are using, but you DON'T need a power tool to get to the bare headlight.
*** I am not saying anything bad about using power tools. I simply want to challenge those who are in the business to try a difference method to remove oxidation and old clear coat. **
Buy the Cans of Clear Coat here:
bit.ly/44SPaBp
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StartRestoringHeadlights.com
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I was thinking of making a headlight restoration business in my city after i noticed many cars needs this service.
I don't know how to restore headlights but now I'm confident since i found this channel i will be able to provide this service 🔥🔥🔥
Hi Tygon! Thats great to hear! Its a very good business to be in, and I'm happy we can inspire and help you to start the business!
I am loving the paper dispenser you suggested just wish it didnt cost so much ….lol
Its a time saver!
I love this whole video and your method, very well done! But I have neither the time nor the patience to work the program. I have seen that there are light lens replacement covers that you can buy, what are your thoughts on those? Thanks!
Thank you! I wouldn't recommend replacing the lens itself. Once it comes off, its very difficult to reseal. Meaning unless you are extremely experienced, 90% of the time you'll develop water intrusion, condensation etc. Restoring is always faster, and more cost efficient.
Why don’t you show the name brand of the clear coat you’re using?
Hi Simplyclear, its in the description.
I want to know the spray name and the paper details plz..
The spray is from nextgenheadlightsolutions.com. Use coupon code "SRH" for $15 off a single kit if you only need one. The paper is from Lowes in the Tape section
is it necessary to go higher from the 600 grit??
Hi Lance! It all depends on your method. If you are using the kits from the site, no. 600 is the highest you go.
That masking paper, does it come with the tape at the end? You are tearing it pretty fast so it seems as though the tape is already applied.
It doesn't you have to install the tape onto the dispenser, and as I pull the masking paper, its applying itself.
@@StartRestoringHeadlights I found some pretaped ones on amazon. I don't know how well they will work. As always, appreciate the content
@@xavierscott6704 Don't get the Suran wrap-style ones, the tape and drape. Any tiny gust makes it difficult to work with.
Are you spray water out of the clear spray bottle then sanding it down???
Yes, just water. It removes debris from in-between the sandpaper, ensuring constant sanding, and also allows me to see my progress in real time.
What grit of sandpaper do u recommend I use on a 2007 vehicle that has never had this done to it???
@@coreycoley72 It Depends, what kind of vehicle is it?
It's a 2007 Hyundai Santa fe
@@coreycoley72 You can start with 400 grit to remove all the oxidation and other imperfections.
Hi Brad , I’m going nuts trying to figure out why I’m still seeing scratches. You can’t see them after about 18” but 8” away you can see them. Please I need some advice. Just did a junk car headlights with 400, 600,800,1000,2000 3000 trizak on a polisher, meguiars polishing cream on a orange foam pad, meguiars spray then a Cerokote ceramic wipe. The wipe actually helped a lot but I still see them. Maybe the answer is your spray because it has fillers ?. Maybe I’m over sanding with the 400 I don’t know. 1 headlight I spent 45 minutes on.
Not sure why you’re using a ceramic wipe on top of the Meguairs clear coat...
But moving on... It’s your technique. However you’re leaving out details as to how you’re sanding.
Are you using just your fingers or do you have a pad between your hand and the sand paper? How much pressure are you using? How long are you sanding during the very first step with the 400?
Hmm ... maybe this can help... wet sand horizontally with the 400 grit and then go vertical with the 600. Maybe this will help you visually... So when you go vertical, you are now seeing your horizontal scratches disappearing. Then with the 800 go horizontal again..
Somewhere you may or may not be over sanding and not properly deleting them with the next step.
Also, are you speaking of scratches you have made or are these markings from before you touched the headlight?
There’s a lot of factors that play in to this, and you need to be patient. It’s a skill and skills need time, practice, patience to develop.
If scratches are left behind from sanding then it’s your technique and there’s a flaw in one of your steps. Take your time with it.
Stop skipping ahead thinking you need to rush through a job.
If it takes two hours to complete one headlight then who cares?? Especially if it’s a practice headlight and not a customers...
The clear coat has zero to do with the skill of sanding.
Don’t jump steps! If you jump to a clear coat that has fillers then you’re truly cheating yourself as the technician.
To become a professional on all levels it takes time.
Even myself... I’ve had five solid customers under my belt and have done well with each project. There were two vehicles I wish I knew more about to do the job way better but I got through it. That was my second customer and it took me five hours to complete both cars wet sanding etc...
My last two customers were a breeze thus far but I’m sure I’ll run in to challenges unfamiliar in the future.
The longer you sand on the first step, the deeper your scratches tend to be and you’ll have to spend more time deleting them on higher grit levels.
It’s important to recognize or know how to recognize when you’ve gotten all oxidation and clear coat off.
First step can take anywhere between five to ten minutes wet sanding. At least this is what I’ve come to see for myself and watching videos in real time.
It all depends on what grit, coating hardness, skill level, etc...
Also, you need to keep in mind that medium to softer lights requires less sanding vs harder clear coats. This can help you determine how quickly you may be able to sand through.
Inspect your work more often if you need to as you sand.
@@MichaelBrianInc Great advice That dude!
Hi Tom, don't watch the video I just posted about the worst scratches haha. So as what That Dude said, there are a lot factors that come into play. Remember, it doesn't take too much to remove the oxidization, and it sounds like you may be sanding at lower grits for too long. I'd experiment and start with 800 and go up. You may be sanding a little bit longer, but it should reduce the the visible scratching. As he said, the longer you scratch with lower grits, the longer you'll be sanding with higher grits to remove them. Using both Meguiars spray and Cerokote wipe is overkill. Feel free to record your process and send me an email, and we can find a good solution.
@@MichaelBrianInc thank you for taking the time to help me.
I want to offer more then the 1 year protection that Meguiars offers and the Cerokote is a simply Ceramic wipe that offers a lifetime protection but I’m sure it won’t last a lifetime.
I don’t use a sanding block just my hands.
I like your idea of sanding both horizontal and vertical. Hopefully that will help with lessening the scratches.
The scratches I’m seeing are mine.
I only sand long enough with the 400 grit to get rid of the yellowing but maybe I am over sanding
Tomorrow I’m gonna try sanding a headlight very lightly with 400 and see how that works out. I really feel that I shouldn’t have to use so many different sand papers it’s just way to time consuming but I will admit that I really enjoy it. …. Lol. It drives me crazy seeing Brad get done so fast and no scratches ….lol
@@StartRestoringHeadlights ok thank you
It looks that the spray melts the surface of the polycarbonate headlight. That´s the reason you get such good results. Why don´t you use any protection? Are you sure the product does not have carcinogenic effects as they very often do?
Deffinitely not melting the polycarbonate. Only a corrosive chemical like sulfuric acid could melt the polycoanate lens like this, and even then it wouldn't be instantaneous like the results above. The clairty comes from the clear coat having filling properties, and filling the microscopic scratches made by the 600 grit. Theres no clear coat on the market that is safe to inhale, most all of them have VOCs like benzene and formaldehyde which obviously would be harmful if inhaled. I usually wear a mask or hold my breathe when spraying.
@@StartRestoringHeadlights Many thanks for your prompt answer! On your other video I saw you wearing a mask. Excellent!
Dry sand is the REAL way to do headlight restoration. U must remove ALL the old factory coating my boi. Dont do it the lazy way.
Thanks for the input 👍