Shouldn’t you have an expansion chamber exhaust, porting, windowed piston and a bigger carb done so the engine can take advantage of the increased airflow before you see if any bolt on intake stuff works well or not? It’s my understanding that it’s kind of pointless to start from point E and expect things to progress in any positive way from point A.
That reed valve is getting held back by two things - air flow due to the small venturi of the NT carb, and exhaust flow from that very restrictive stock pipe. Address those two things, and I guarantee the reed valve/windowed piston combo would pull at least 1.5HP over stock.
Fat groove down and up through the inlarged intakeport level with the other transfers.thats the only reason for a change to reeds, . That reed doesn't flow.
Back in the mid 1960s I mounted a Denarm chain saw reed to a 150 cc motor bike engine. IT was mounted straight onto the crankcase. The case had to be plated and machined and the original inlet blanked off. Worked real good. I didn't have a dyno to check it on but it was so easy to feel the big increase in hp. I tried four different exhaust systems to find the the one best suited. ( short open pipe) A tuner expansion chamber would increase the hp even further. .I later went on to do further mods such as raising the compression in the crankcase and enlarging the transfer ports. Tried a modified high compression head but couldn't keep the gaskets up to it. I still have the bike in storage and am going to try a copper gasket or recess the head onto the top of the cylinder. If you try this reed valve system don't forget you have to keep the carby horizontal so the float valve works properly.
A well tuned expansion chamber combined with decent reed valves, knife edging the transfers, and port timing will multiply your output many times over. You also want the reeds feeding directly into the crankcase, don't use piston valving.
DONT KNIFE EDGE air likes to flow around smooth round objects not sharp edges, I did a test with a yz70 and picked up almost .5 hp with the same timing same port volume only difference between the cylinders was the shape of the transfer
@@dangerousdoggo5465 I still run the stock exhaust on mine, so I would agree they run forever, currently at 7,000 miles on the motor and still ran with the exhaust with the baffle inside.
@@dangerousdoggo5465 that sounds like alot of upgrades, I'm going to port the intake and exhaust, I already helicoil the bolts holes in the motor reduced the vibrations and helped em never strip a bolts
you can also take a 3mm spacer, that goes between the Cylinder and the Motorblock. But then you also have to plane down the cylinderhead. (When you plane the cylinder head down, you also have more compression=more HP). And if you want to make it even better, you can use a Homoet P4/6/8 Moped exaust, you can get extreme results with those exausts.
A little heads up usually reed valves need to have a ported intake and a good expansion chamber usually helps with the process as an expansion chamber can change how aggressive the power and comes into play as can the reeda
I noticed, there could be a difference in the distance between the carburettor and the engine...when in stock mode and when the reeds are installed. Changing the distance from the carb to the engine can affect the performance.... So i heard
Thanks for the video, very informative. i guess a reed case is the way to go? would have been nice if you brought the piston up to tdc to see the squish area. 6:09
I have my VM18 now I noticed where it clamps is much wider than my intake. Do I need a special intake or could I use a spacer? I have the Rse zeda 40mm reed valve.
Im thinking about porting mine as well. As I've seen lot videos on here where people people seem to improve there engines output , u get arround too porting yours the carb intake and the exhaust end plus exhaust ,as be interested in the difference standard and after the porting .
I'm using a Zeda 40, with Pipe, Hi Compression head, Big Box Reed, Hotter Plug. For a carburetor I am using a STEHL Chainsaw Carb. 900 series, this is so I have both High and Low needles. Low is set rich and the High is set as a "fat" two stroke. This set up after it's completely heated up, acceleration is strong enough to make your arms hurt. This thing PULLS. Flat ground, pavement, zero wind, flat out, 42 mph.
I had a 66cc that was ported and had a f2 thruster (basically straight pipe) With a stock nt carb and it went 47mph with a 44t on 26” wheels which that’s means it should have been turning 11k
I need some advice, I bought a gt80 off gas bike.net supposed it has a ported cylinder,intake and exhaust portsand tht third channel, have a large window piston with a Reed valve and a rehin clien clone 14mm,super charged cdi,mx65 pipe high compression head and a 32t sprocket but I'm not satisfied with the proformance,I'm looking for more speed what can I do with what I got to improve and improve it the most
I know this is an old video. But could you please add boysen ports to the intake/transfer ports and see if that bumps up the power. I think it would, and that way the intake feeds the transfer ports directly. Sincerely
If that's the Reed valve with the peddle sticking through the Reed it's probably hitting the roof and floor of the port....not letting it open all the way
The reed valve interrupts the air stream, and your mixture could be way off. Just a thought. A lag in the fuel delivery? That window in the piston doubles the air pulses, double the lag time.
Reed valves are restrictive The function of a reed valve is to prevent returning gases to the carburetor for fuel efficiency other that you need a “Really Big Reed Valve”to get the same flow of air through
So what’s the point of these bolt on reed valves?! Also i ordered mine ported for non reed but with a rse to hold on to for later and you guys ported it for the reed with the reed valve bolted on 😤.
I really wish u guys would have finished this series doin the three transfer doin dif carb doin all these things he talked about would have been great info
Reed valves by themselves will not increase horsepower but they allow the intake porting to be ported much more aggressive and not rely on the piston to be a slide valve and reeds usually have less reversion out of the carb/intake
So not even spray painting flames on my bikes would make them racing bikes🤔😂😂😂😂.dang Robert good info.anyways there's money gone to waste.i should had seen these videos before ordering.thanks
I have been into race engines my whole life, the reason your not getting higher output is your reeds are not closing. check your reeds bent or not properly setup right.
I would like to see that same setup with an expansion chamber. I’m about to buy the triple 40 kit. I thought about buying that reed and a windowed piston.
I have a triple 40,and just bought a dang RSE reed.I didn't port.I Did match gaskets to them,and micro beveled the inside edges.I'm running 44t on a Hub-adapter and like the torque and milage I'm getting.Only 'mod' was the long tube up into the muffler,and I cut 1-1/2" off,then stuffed 1/2 a choreboy in it.I get about 120mpg.
32 is as fast as I've tried and the throttle cable wasn't pulled all the way.I cruise @18- 19 so it stays legal.(Motor-assisted instead of 30mph Moped class)Happy Trails.
Just did a 35mph run,(outside of town and back road)and it hummed.I could do more,but it's a Bike.Sheesh.LoL.Mongoose front suspension,but still..not going more.Happy trails .
You cant just do back to back tests after mods, you need to re-tune the jetting and timing to get the peak after any mods. So tune it to get the most you can before the mod, do the mod then tune jetting and timing over a number of runs to get the peak with that mod, then do the next mod and again multiple runs tuning the timing and jetting to get the peak.
AuMechanic we do our testing as if someone that has no idea and buys performance parts thinking they can just bolt them on and go. 90% of the time this is the case. The other 10% aren’t here on CZcams looking for how to videos
ya they have to, its a stock carb being tested in a consistent testing environment, with a magneto spark i.e. what alot of airplanes use even to this day. It appears you havent even touched one of these motors , otherwise you wouldnt be trying to lecture those kids the way you are, troll.
Loren Keith and these motors are very touchy. One day it can make 1/2 hp more then other days. So back to back testing is best. Atleast on these engines
also it takes the third transfer port to make any kind of real hp change. But still if reeds dont shut it not going to do anything but make it worse because the fuel has trouble getting past a couple of reeds vibrating all over the place. also did it blow a crank seal thats the first place your loss of power will go. you've stopped all pressure going out the intake so it goes out least resistance which sometimes can be crank seal. l plate my crank seals in so they dont blow.
Why don't the engine kits have an exhaust on the rear end and a carb on the front end? I mean it would take in more air going at higher speeds making a small amount of boost, as well as sucking more air out of the exhaust with negative air pressure.
Yes, it does Gordon, on old cars people always put air-rams and stuff on their cars, and they always had higher performance with air rams despite them all being carburated. Hell, you can even turbocharge carburetted cars, as even with a cheap amazon turbo kit you can expect an easy 2-300 horsepower gain on a small block cast iron chevy, hotrod network did a segment on it, and it was carburated, actually most turbocharged/ram air muscle-cars are carburated, so the whole idea that "ram air doesn't work on cars" is bullshit, it works, and it makes power.
It's that reed he's using it's just got one flap in it and they restrict the air really bad if he put a bigger reed on it the power would've came right back...I just did it to mine
It'll never got power band without an expansion chamber pipe. These upgrades are useless without that 1 all important part. 2 strokes rely heavily on exhaust tuning
I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed,but is it not obvious to you that the reed valve you chose is restricting airflow?Putting a windowed piston in after restricting the intake doesn't take a rocket surgeon to predict the results.
Reeds aren't generally used on motors with the intake on the cylinder.. They are normally used on crankcase induction.. I don't know the whole story on what your'e trying to accomplish.. I'm saying generally not always.. Just wanted to make that clear before everyone berates me on here.
so you sell these "bolt on" parts and profit from them ,correct? So whats the point of a video like this? is there another video in conjunction with this that shows them how to properly get the most out of your parts?
nope , they won't show the right way to port the engine or tune the carb for the reed valve , but they will show the wrong way to bolt on parts and expect your stock carb and exhaust to keep up with them
Bunch or A holes for ignoring your comment, that's why i didn't buy anything from these snubs, they don't deserve my money, and also my friends when they ask me I tell them first thing not to buy from these guys.
@@johndawd4616 exactly, Zeda used to be top dogs, the best of the best when they first came out and had a name to gain, now they have gotten greedy and are absolute trash. They will take your money and half the time not even send the right parts. I literally trust gasbike.net more than i trust these guys. Its sad honestly, the same people and websites Zeda slams and talks shit about, are better than Zeda to begin with, how ironic.
@@johndawd4616 shit, Amazon is better than Zeda now, bikeberry another website they slam is 100 times better than them aswell, actually have a motor from them with no issues. Ofcourse always check your motors to make sure everything is correct regardless who you get it from, but Zeda, i doubt you could even buy a motor from between them never being in stock, retarded overpriced, or if they even send it to you at all.
I use the rse reed on a completely stock set up. a lot needs done to get fair results in power. the first thing you should do is open the intake port up, so the Reed can open properly. definitely chamfer the exhaust port for two reasons. 1. so the rings slide smoothly over the port. 2. it creates a .8mm increase in the open duration of the port. you can benefit from making the exhaust port wider too but it's not a necessity like the foremost mentioned. ideally any stock kit you have should be port matched with the manifolds. you wouldn't want to drink from a container that blocks most of the fluids would you? nor shit out a turd through two buttholes, one big and the next small....you need to wipe till it hurts! anyways, another important thing that must be done, the stock exhaust sucks the life out of a reed my honest opinion is don't use it. although two things can be done to make it work and work well enough to power up inclines with out much of a running start. 1. take the 10mm bolt out of the baffling cap and pull the long pipe out from the muffler. you'll see that pipe is attached to the cap. cut that thing off as close as you can to the cap. 2. drill open the left over pipe on the baffling cap till the metal is thin and bendable. when that's done you, gave yourself a little bit of exhaust tune ability with a crude "stinger" the more you have the hotter the pipe, the less you have the cooler the pipe. cold pipes can push more, hot pipes can Excell more. something else can be done but it's not a gonna hurt much if it's left alone. inside the muffler you'll see some tin discs with holes in them and it's connected to the screw hole to bolt the cap back on. along the walls you will find shotty weld beads that hold that garbage in place. if you got 12v and 10 amps you can melt those things off with long pieces of 14g copper wire and a junk screw driver. if you take it out drill two holes at the end of the muffler and baffling cap one across from the other to screw the cap back on. now regardless of what pipe you use you will never see nothing past 40mph with a 36, 40, 44, tooth gear. you can try a 32 but it will take you miles to get 45mph with just a piston ported rse reed. you got your piston ported out and it's getting all the intake it needs, yep. only problem now is the exhaust it still on piston port timing and the top end has lost power. that's why a boost port should be cut in. I'm not talking about a hole trench to the case. cutting down to the case only hurts bottom end power because doing that increases volume in the crankcase. just make a half bowl shape above the intake UP TO the top of the transfer window. the boost port isn't important if you don't wanna speed. with this set up using nothing but modified stock parts you should see over 4 horses, with a boost port the apex should reach near 10k and pushing 5 horse. oh, I forgot about the carburetor. take the air box off and leave it off. get the plastic thing that looks like a bullseye and cut all the plastic out of the center leaving nothing left but the outer ring and two screw holes. that plastic bullseye screws up the air flow. now look at the choke you see the lip thats protruding out of the venturi tube. that lip is intended only to ensure the choke chokes. well smooth that lip down so air can pass undisturbed and bend the choke in a bit. by doing that you get better idle and smoother throttle control and makes the bike that much more tunable.
Absolutely fantastic your hands on work is clear quick with perfect tips I have not had to waste 1 penny on all these different mods they aka (China)sell sell us with hopes of more horsepower and you can bet I would have tried everyone and then I'll put it together and I'll be producing 0.9hp and that shit is upsetting cuz you question your ability but with your guys's awesome program perfect for me the info's there and it just sinks right in my brain thanks you guys I'm going to subscribe right now
Unfortunately, I learned this early on by buying and experiencing first-hand these reed valves and pistons... I feel vindicated no longer using/suggesting this setup by seeing the numbers. I love my ’myth busters’ @ Zeda Mafia.
Dude, your dyno wasn't calibrated correctly. On a gasoline engine the torque and HP should cross at 5252 rpm, if they don't the results are inaccurate. I've watched other dyno pulls you've done, and they did. So, what's up with that?
That Reed valve body is way too big. The more space the lower the vacuum on up stroke. Pipe first,mill the head and switch to a rc12 champion plug with 3/16" spacer to fill the gap with plug not air change from stock needle to .078 inch I weigh 220 and go 30 plus mph. Will post my aluminum exp chamber when I figure out how to shoot video
can ye try 'water injection'? mix 2-5-10% of water in ethanol in a 4stroke engine and compare the output. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engine)
Why would you bother tuning an engine with not potential, its unrestricted and it still doesnt go over 2hp, even restricted scooter engines do about 3. And also, you dont have to have a windowed piston when you run a reed valve, makes no sense.
Would be nice to try this on the two motors I got for a Zeda twin motor mount....that I ordered like two fucking months ago and STILL have not received. Nor an email, text, notification, nothing. So fucking disappointed, let alone pissed! That was THREE HUNDRED FUCKING DOLLARS FELLAS, and last time I checked, money doesn't grow on trees. Where's my fucking part?!
Okay these need adjustments done. The motor is going to do its best based on atmosphere conditions regardless. So here this man has a controlled setting. Testing add on parts is good to see where a motor is at for power. This man has a DYNO. I dont have the luxury of a dyno YET....You imply 24 hour cool down period between testing? Maybe the next guy will say only 20 hours. How is letting the motor cool and sit for 24 hours going to help it before the next test? It dont. Assuming it is in good operating condition, sealed tight, no leaks. Does your bike run higher after it sits for a day, then higher the next 24 and so on? I bet no. Get off your high horse and dont knock the man for helping. We are all a searcher for more speed. Most people dont know that these parts need a certain amount modding to get the ideal result. Without a DYNO you have nothing to go by but, sounds, feelings, vibrations and what you had for breakfast. I run the CDH 32-40mm reed (not the best ok but it works) but I had to mill my windowed piston and add ramps 30 degrees by width of the transfers x .25" deep including a multiple radius slope for duration transition based on the height I set my jug. If your transfers are not opening all the way you got a problem. I can break 28 mph on a single speed with a 56 tooth with huge off the line torque. I was told this top speed would never be seen with a single speed 56 tooth but I achieved it. Oh and I used a hand file to do it. I have NO idea what my engine is pushing out for numbers.
Nobody here is that stupid unless you cant read. I was talkin bout him posting videos 24 hr in between so his viewer count can go up according to youtubes algorithem, but he doesnt care about views or money or helping to educate those that really do want to know how far these little motors can go. Just like how othe go-kart channels (who are making good money and have sponsors). they dont care they're just wasting their own time half-assing this channel, for christ sakes it not that hard to have an intern do your video editing and voice over for you till it takes off. Im still convinced this channel has so much potential sitting right here , literally a freaking gold mine.
Such a bogus test!! Not all reed valves are the same......and why would you use a stock carb?? A real reed valve wouldn't even allow you to use a small stock $7.00 carb!! LMAO!!! Rookies!!
Jason Cung that was a real reed valve. Lol and how fast are you again? Last I checked I was hitting 86mph on a motorized bicycle. Little ole china doll motor.
Shouldn’t you have an expansion chamber exhaust, porting, windowed piston and a bigger carb done so the engine can take advantage of the increased airflow before you see if any bolt on intake stuff works well or not? It’s my understanding that it’s kind of pointless to start from point E and expect things to progress in any positive way from point A.
Yea pipe does the hard work any 2 stroke will run like crap if it’s huffing and re cycling fuel charge
7:06 is when they start the test with the reed valve and window piston.
Jorell Dye thanks you the man for that info brother
thanks bro
That reed valve is getting held back by two things - air flow due to the small venturi of the NT carb, and exhaust flow from that very restrictive stock pipe. Address those two things, and I guarantee the reed valve/windowed piston combo would pull at least 1.5HP over stock.
You need a boost port in your cylinder to make the reed valve work. An extra transfer port down from the intake port needs to be hand ported in.
Fat groove down and up through the inlarged intakeport level with the other transfers.thats the only reason for a change to reeds, . That reed doesn't flow.
Back in the mid 1960s I mounted a Denarm chain saw reed to a 150 cc motor bike engine. IT was mounted straight onto the crankcase. The case had to be plated and machined and the original inlet blanked off. Worked real good. I didn't have a dyno to check it on but it was so easy to feel the big increase in hp. I tried four different exhaust systems to find the the one best suited. ( short open pipe) A tuner expansion chamber would increase the hp even further. .I later went on to do further mods such as raising the compression in the crankcase and enlarging the transfer ports. Tried a modified high compression head but couldn't keep the gaskets up to it. I still have the bike in storage and am going to try a copper gasket or recess the head onto the top of the cylinder. If you try this reed valve system don't forget you have to keep the carby horizontal so the float valve works properly.
A well tuned expansion chamber combined with decent reed valves, knife edging the transfers, and port timing will multiply your output many times over. You also want the reeds feeding directly into the crankcase, don't use piston valving.
Alasdair McC how do you port the transfers
DONT KNIFE EDGE air likes to flow around smooth round objects not sharp edges, I did a test with a yz70 and picked up almost .5 hp with the same timing same port volume only difference between the cylinders was the shape of the transfer
Idk why people don't understand that knife edging is a no no.
@@kenturmon3660 What exactly is knife edging? I'm not familiar with the term. Is it to describe a sharp finish on the intake/ exhaust ports?
this test is useless. a 2 stroke NEEDS a proper exhaust to work at all xD
Like any engine ever, you think these puny exhaust are good for any motor.. pfft that's why they call em upgrades.
@@dangerousdoggo5465 I still run the stock exhaust on mine, so I would agree they run forever, currently at 7,000 miles on the motor and still ran with the exhaust with the baffle inside.
@@dangerousdoggo5465 that sounds like alot of upgrades, I'm going to port the intake and exhaust, I already helicoil the bolts holes in the motor reduced the vibrations and helped em never strip a bolts
@@eduardodiaz5762 your not at 7000 miles
@@mechanicalking your right I'm at 7,710 miles so far.
Torque was off the chart! From 1.57 to 2.27 would love to see a longer intake runner with this set up
and of course ya'll didn't increase the main jet size which is necessary when you change from piston port intake to reed valve intake. duhh
Can you do one of the big bolt on reed valves?
you can also take a 3mm spacer, that goes between the Cylinder and the Motorblock. But then you also have to plane down the cylinderhead. (When you plane the cylinder head down, you also have more compression=more HP). And if you want to make it even better, you can use a Homoet P4/6/8 Moped exaust, you can get extreme results with those exausts.
A little heads up usually reed valves need to have a ported intake and a good expansion chamber usually helps with the process as an expansion chamber can change how aggressive the power and comes into play as can the reeda
Can you test mzparts miami 48mm sleeved cylinder and the 3mm stroker crank?
I noticed, there could be a difference in the distance between the carburettor and the engine...when in stock mode and when the reeds are installed.
Changing the distance from the carb to the engine can affect the performance.... So i heard
How much are your engine kits?
Needs an expansion chamber exhaust i put an small one on my 80cc noticed a difference straight out
Did you adjust the mixture
Reed valve is a restriction on that style 2stroke. It needs to be a transfer port style 2stroke order for a reed valve to improve the power.
Thanks for the video, very informative.
i guess a reed case is the way to go?
would have been nice if you brought the piston up to tdc to see the squish area. 6:09
I have my VM18 now I noticed where it clamps is much wider than my intake. Do I need a special intake or could I use a spacer? I have the Rse zeda 40mm reed valve.
Can you do a video on a third transfer port reed valve and windowed piston please.
Pro x pistons bbuilds them that way also. Highly recommended
should definatly do a ported vs not
Im thinking about porting mine as well. As I've seen lot videos on here where people people seem to improve there engines output , u get arround too porting yours the carb intake and the exhaust end plus exhaust ,as be interested in the difference standard and after the porting .
I'm using a Zeda 40, with Pipe, Hi Compression head, Big Box Reed, Hotter Plug. For a carburetor I am using a STEHL Chainsaw Carb. 900 series, this is so I have both High and Low needles. Low is set rich and the High is set as a "fat" two stroke. This set up after it's completely heated up, acceleration is strong enough to make your arms hurt. This thing PULLS. Flat ground, pavement, zero wind, flat out, 42 mph.
I had a 66cc that was ported and had a f2 thruster (basically straight pipe)
With a stock nt carb and it went 47mph with a 44t on 26” wheels which that’s means it should have been turning 11k
I need some advice, I bought a gt80 off gas bike.net supposed it has a ported cylinder,intake and exhaust portsand tht third channel, have a large window piston with a Reed valve and a rehin clien clone 14mm,super charged cdi,mx65 pipe high compression head and a 32t sprocket but I'm not satisfied with the proformance,I'm looking for more speed what can I do with what I got to improve and improve it the most
I know this is an old video. But could you please add boysen ports to the intake/transfer ports and see if that bumps up the power.
I think it would, and that way the intake feeds the transfer ports directly.
Sincerely
Would like to see you redo this and see if the flaps on the inside do not have room to open
I got that jug can i port the inside of that exhaust port because its small compared to the outside
So a stock Zeda engine, is 2hp?
If that's the Reed valve with the peddle sticking through the Reed it's probably hitting the roof and floor of the port....not letting it open all the way
Yous need to do this test with the 2 gen phantom engine
The reed valve interrupts the air stream, and your mixture could be way off. Just a thought. A lag in the fuel delivery? That window in the piston doubles the air pulses, double the lag time.
Reed valves are restrictive
The function of a reed valve is to prevent returning gases to the carburetor for fuel efficiency other that you need a “Really Big Reed Valve”to get the same flow of air through
Strongly considering buying a zeda motor
Have you ever tried a pull wit the head reversed?
Think you could do another one
After putting in a third transfer
Port ?
I wanna see that third transfer
So what’s the point of these bolt on reed valves?! Also i ordered mine ported for non reed but with a rse to hold on to for later and you guys ported it for the reed with the reed valve bolted on 😤.
looks like your clutch link is hitting the carb body, since its pushed back further
thanks for the myth busters videos!
I really wish u guys would have finished this series doin the three transfer doin dif carb doin all these things he talked about would have been great info
Reed valves by themselves will not increase horsepower but they allow the intake porting to be ported much more aggressive and not rely on the piston to be a slide valve and reeds usually have less reversion out of the carb/intake
I like to see this engine kit on the dyno. I know 80cc Bullet Train Electric Start Bicycle Engine Kit - 2 Stroke Gas Powered Bike Motor Engine
So not even spray painting flames on my bikes would make them racing bikes🤔😂😂😂😂.dang Robert good info.anyways there's money gone to waste.i should had seen these videos before ordering.thanks
You need Another exhaust
Brand new rings in a used cylinder probably didn't do your compression any favors.
Can you add a boost bottle to a reed valve? Would you recommend it if it can be done?
Zoreldan it would defeat the purpose
Boost bottles do very little if not work at all, zeda motorsports would agree.
Should of added a high performance head and exhaust too and the NT carburetor is the best one. A lot better than the "high performance" one
So is it only this type of reed valve that takes away hp
No warm up after starting?
Daniel DeNapoli it was hot already
I have been into race engines my whole life, the reason your not getting higher output is your reeds are not closing. check your reeds bent or not properly setup right.
Michael Husband they are brand new. Check the other video. They close perfectly
Where can I buy some stuff for you guys
I would like to see that same setup with an expansion chamber. I’m about to buy the triple 40 kit. I thought about buying that reed and a windowed piston.
I have a triple 40,and just bought a dang RSE reed.I didn't port.I Did match gaskets to them,and micro beveled the inside edges.I'm running 44t on a Hub-adapter and like the torque and milage I'm getting.Only 'mod' was the long tube up into the muffler,and I cut 1-1/2" off,then stuffed 1/2 a choreboy in it.I get about 120mpg.
BryDuhBikeGuy what kind of top speed are you getting?
32 is as fast as I've tried and the throttle cable wasn't pulled all the way.I cruise @18- 19 so it stays legal.(Motor-assisted instead of 30mph Moped class)Happy Trails.
Oops.That's on a 26" Mt.Bike weighs about 50lb with rack etc.I'm 185
Just did a 35mph run,(outside of town and back road)and it hummed.I could do more,but it's a Bike.Sheesh.LoL.Mongoose front suspension,but still..not going more.Happy trails .
expansion chamber and ported transfer video please! with reed
Gt80 reed.16mm Klein clone carb thruster pipe mild porting thats what im riding dam i wonder how fast im goin
Plus i windowed my piston
were did you get that dyno? ive been wanting to dyno my engine for a long time
Jareds Motorbikes I never said that I'm moving to zeda, I just want to know what my engine puts out
BBR tuning for life
Try again HP carburetor and put an aftermarket head what's a stock exhaust and see what it'll do
"can
You cant just do back to back tests after mods, you need to re-tune the jetting and timing to get the peak after any mods.
So tune it to get the most you can before the mod, do the mod then tune jetting and timing over a number of runs to get the peak with that mod, then do the next mod and again multiple runs tuning the timing and jetting to get the peak.
AuMechanic we do our testing as if someone that has no idea and buys performance parts thinking they can just bolt them on and go. 90% of the time this is the case. The other 10% aren’t here on CZcams looking for how to videos
ya they have to, its a stock carb being tested in a consistent testing environment, with a magneto spark i.e. what alot of airplanes use even to this day. It appears you havent even touched one of these motors , otherwise you wouldnt be trying to lecture those kids the way you are, troll.
Loren Keith and these motors are very touchy. One day it can make 1/2 hp more then other days. So back to back testing is best. Atleast on these engines
Yes I can see the logic of that, most would just buy them and bolt on hoping for results.
also it takes the third transfer port to make any kind of real hp change. But still if reeds dont shut it not going to do anything but make it worse because the fuel has trouble getting past a couple of reeds vibrating all over the place. also did it blow a crank seal thats the first place your loss of power will go. you've stopped all pressure going out the intake so it goes out least resistance which sometimes can be crank seal. l plate my crank seals in so they dont blow.
You need a propper exhaust..
just raise the compression and be done with it...
Why don't the engine kits have an exhaust on the rear end and a carb on the front end? I mean it would take in more air going at higher speeds making a small amount of boost, as well as sucking more air out of the exhaust with negative air pressure.
Deimos Phob maybe cause the way the carb works ? Ram air night not be good for these engines and carb
Ram air works really well on carburated cars, idk why it wouldn't work well on carburated mopeds.
@@deimosphob ram air doesn't work on carburetted cars
Yes, it does Gordon, on old cars people always put air-rams and stuff on their cars, and they always had higher performance with air rams despite them all being carburated. Hell, you can even turbocharge carburetted cars, as even with a cheap amazon turbo kit you can expect an easy 2-300 horsepower gain on a small block cast iron chevy, hotrod network did a segment on it, and it was carburated, actually most turbocharged/ram air muscle-cars are carburated, so the whole idea that "ram air doesn't work on cars" is bullshit, it works, and it makes power.
@@deimosphob ram air your bike, done yet? lets see the video! 15hp china girl
Is the carburetor not enough fuel
It's that reed he's using it's just got one flap in it and they restrict the air really bad if he put a bigger reed on it the power would've came right back...I just did it to mine
Engine never hit power band,something is not letting that engine rev?
It'll never got power band without an expansion chamber pipe. These upgrades are useless without that 1 all important part. 2 strokes rely heavily on exhaust tuning
I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed,but is it not obvious to you that the reed valve you chose is restricting airflow?Putting a windowed piston in after restricting the intake doesn't take a rocket surgeon to predict the results.
I wish I could hear the engine , is it 4 stroking? Please put a mic in there.
2 stroke
@@hermann6674 Planes trains and automobiles. We were robbed!!!.
I have steve martins face on....
"Do you think"?
Now tune it
do just the window piston with no reed valve
Reeds aren't generally used on motors with the intake on the cylinder.. They are normally used on crankcase induction.. I don't know the whole story on what your'e trying to accomplish.. I'm saying generally not always.. Just wanted to make that clear before everyone berates me on here.
Ther are plenty engines with the reed valies on the cilinder
re-read my comment.. Didn't say there wasn't
I think its funny how he says it doesnt work but he sells reed valves........ all about how you set it up!
Isaiah Rolon I think it’s funny you don’t understand this video. Bolting a reed on a motor that isn’t ported for it doesn’t work, as this video shows.
where are you located? i would spend 5 bucks to DYNO my engine! LOL
When you find out, let me know so I could go pick up the expensive part they never sent me!
Yep 5 bucks for using a dyno is a lol cause ya dreaming if anyone would do it for 5 bucks maybe in your mind not the real world
This motor can run with a 28mm carb, get the air in dude
now redo this test with proper rejetting.
so you sell these "bolt on" parts and profit from them ,correct? So whats the point of a video like this? is there another video in conjunction with this that shows them how to properly get the most out of your parts?
Dfe st rqdsrf
nope , they won't show the right way to port the engine or tune the carb for the reed valve , but they will show the wrong way to bolt on parts and expect your stock carb and exhaust to keep up with them
Bunch or A holes for ignoring your comment, that's why i didn't buy anything from these snubs, they don't deserve my money, and also my friends when they ask me I tell them first thing not to buy from these guys.
@@johndawd4616 exactly, Zeda used to be top dogs, the best of the best when they first came out and had a name to gain, now they have gotten greedy and are absolute trash. They will take your money and half the time not even send the right parts. I literally trust gasbike.net more than i trust these guys. Its sad honestly, the same people and websites Zeda slams and talks shit about, are better than Zeda to begin with, how ironic.
@@johndawd4616 shit, Amazon is better than Zeda now, bikeberry another website they slam is 100 times better than them aswell, actually have a motor from them with no issues. Ofcourse always check your motors to make sure everything is correct regardless who you get it from, but Zeda, i doubt you could even buy a motor from between them never being in stock, retarded overpriced, or if they even send it to you at all.
That's what my bikeberry kit is doing... full throttle no balls
Robert Rodgers don’t buy bikeberry
So why are you guys selling em of they are no good?, i just bought a zeda reed 🤨🤔😡
I use the rse reed on a completely stock set up. a lot needs done to get fair results in power. the first thing you should do is open the intake port up, so the Reed can open properly. definitely chamfer the exhaust port for two reasons.
1. so the rings slide smoothly over the port.
2. it creates a .8mm increase in the open duration of the port.
you can benefit from making the exhaust port wider too but it's not a necessity like the foremost mentioned.
ideally any stock kit you have should be port matched with the manifolds. you wouldn't want to drink from a container that blocks most of the fluids would you? nor shit out a turd through two buttholes, one big and the next small....you need to wipe till it hurts! anyways,
another important thing that must be done, the stock exhaust sucks the life out of a reed my honest opinion is don't use it. although two things can be done to make it work and work well enough to power up inclines with out much of a running start.
1. take the 10mm bolt out of the baffling cap and pull the long pipe out from the muffler. you'll see that pipe is attached to the cap. cut that thing off as close as you can to the cap.
2. drill open the left over pipe on the baffling cap till the metal is thin and bendable. when that's done you, gave yourself a little bit of exhaust tune ability with a crude "stinger" the more you have the hotter the pipe, the less you have the cooler the pipe. cold pipes can push more, hot pipes can Excell more.
something else can be done but it's not a gonna hurt much if it's left alone.
inside the muffler you'll see some tin discs with holes in them and it's connected to the screw hole to bolt the cap back on. along the walls you will find shotty weld beads that hold that garbage in place. if you got 12v and 10 amps you can melt those things off with long pieces of 14g copper wire and a junk screw driver. if you take it out drill two holes at the end of the muffler and baffling cap one across from the other to screw the cap back on.
now regardless of what pipe you use you will never see nothing past 40mph with a 36, 40, 44, tooth gear. you can try a 32 but it will take you miles to get 45mph with just a piston ported rse reed. you got your piston ported out and it's getting all the intake it needs, yep. only problem now is the exhaust it still on piston port timing and the top end has lost power. that's why a boost port should be cut in. I'm not talking about a hole trench to the case. cutting down to the case only hurts bottom end power because doing that increases volume in the crankcase. just make a half bowl shape above the intake UP TO the top of the transfer window.
the boost port isn't important if you don't wanna speed.
with this set up using nothing but modified stock parts you should see over 4 horses, with a boost port the apex should reach near 10k and pushing 5 horse.
oh, I forgot about the carburetor.
take the air box off and leave it off. get the plastic thing that looks like a bullseye and cut all the plastic out of the center leaving nothing left but the outer ring and two screw holes. that plastic bullseye screws up the air flow.
now look at the choke you see the lip thats protruding out of the venturi tube. that lip is intended only to ensure the choke chokes. well smooth that lip down so air can pass undisturbed and bend the choke in a bit. by doing that you get better idle and smoother throttle control and makes the bike that much more tunable.
Casey how do you do a boost port
check out CDH weeve velve g2
Absolutely fantastic your hands on work is clear quick with perfect tips I have not had to waste 1 penny on all these different mods they aka (China)sell sell us with hopes of more horsepower and you can bet I would have tried everyone and then I'll put it together and I'll be producing 0.9hp and that shit is upsetting cuz you question your ability but with your guys's awesome program perfect for me the info's there and it just sinks right in my brain thanks you guys I'm going to subscribe right now
Unfortunately, I learned this early on by buying and experiencing first-hand these reed valves and pistons... I feel vindicated no longer using/suggesting this setup by seeing the numbers. I love my ’myth busters’ @ Zeda Mafia.
Dude, your dyno wasn't calibrated correctly.
On a gasoline engine the torque and HP should cross at 5252 rpm, if they don't the results are inaccurate.
I've watched other dyno pulls you've done, and they did.
So, what's up with that?
That Reed valve body is way too big. The more space the lower the vacuum on up stroke. Pipe first,mill the head and switch to a rc12 champion plug with 3/16" spacer to fill the gap with plug not air change from stock needle to .078 inch I weigh 220 and go 30 plus mph. Will post my aluminum exp chamber when I figure out how to shoot video
i think one of the reeds isn’t opening
Try a cheap high compression head, with a window piston, no Reed valve
can ye try 'water injection'?
mix 2-5-10% of water in ethanol in a 4stroke engine and compare the output.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engine)
Of course u need Windows pistón w Reed valve because u put reed valve w no Window pistón is not work
Jets?
the jets suck! Go Cowboys!
U need a bigger carb
Reed valve is not into the cylinder far enough
Why would you bother tuning an engine with not potential, its unrestricted and it still doesnt go over 2hp, even restricted scooter engines do about 3. And also, you dont have to have a windowed piston when you run a reed valve, makes no sense.
Would be nice to try this on the two motors I got for a Zeda twin motor mount....that I ordered like two fucking months ago and STILL have not received. Nor an email, text, notification, nothing. So fucking disappointed, let alone pissed! That was THREE HUNDRED FUCKING DOLLARS FELLAS, and last time I checked, money doesn't grow on trees. Where's my fucking part?!
even if you have multiple videos in one day, it helps to wait 24hr. Get high off your High
Loren Keith lol man I get very limited time to even mess with you tube. So I try to post when I can brother
Okay these need adjustments done. The motor is going to do its best based on atmosphere conditions regardless. So here this man has a controlled setting. Testing add on parts is good to see where a motor is at for power. This man has a DYNO. I dont have the luxury of a dyno YET....You imply 24 hour cool down period between testing? Maybe the next guy will say only 20 hours. How is letting the motor cool and sit for 24 hours going to help it before the next test? It dont. Assuming it is in good operating condition, sealed tight, no leaks. Does your bike run higher after it sits for a day, then higher the next 24 and so on? I bet no. Get off your high horse and dont knock the man for helping. We are all a searcher for more speed. Most people dont know that these parts need a certain amount modding to get the ideal result. Without a DYNO you have nothing to go by but, sounds, feelings, vibrations and what you had for breakfast. I run the CDH 32-40mm reed (not the best ok but it works) but I had to mill my windowed piston and add ramps 30 degrees by width of the transfers x .25" deep including a multiple radius slope for duration transition based on the height I set my jug. If your transfers are not opening all the way you got a problem. I can break 28 mph on a single speed with a 56 tooth with huge off the line torque. I was told this top speed would never be seen with a single speed 56 tooth but I achieved it. Oh and I used a hand file to do it. I have NO idea what my engine is pushing out for numbers.
Nobody here is that stupid unless you cant read. I was talkin bout him posting videos 24 hr in between so his viewer count can go up according to youtubes algorithem, but he doesnt care about views or money or helping to educate those that really do want to know how far these little motors can go. Just like how othe go-kart channels (who are making good money and have sponsors). they dont care they're just wasting their own time half-assing this channel, for christ sakes it not that hard to have an intern do your video editing and voice over for you till it takes off. Im still convinced this channel has so much potential sitting right here , literally a freaking gold mine.
Ban reed valves globally .
The head is on backward
Oily hand mess may desktop and window and make me angry
Sled motor
What a load of crap mine as stock kicks out 6hp
All pointless without a tuned pipe
Camera guy sucks!! Keeps looking down instead of at the work that’s being done!
Such a bogus test!! Not all reed valves are the same......and why would you use a stock carb?? A real reed valve wouldn't even allow you to use a small stock $7.00 carb!! LMAO!!! Rookies!!
Jason Cung that was a real reed valve. Lol and how fast are you again? Last I checked I was hitting 86mph on a motorized bicycle. Little ole china doll motor.
Have you ever tried a pull wit the head reversed?