Starting on the wings! - Scheibe Falke SF-25b motor glider - Airplane restoration #10
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
- Welcome to episode 10 of our motor glider restoration. In this episode we will take the wings out of storage and start disassembling all the control mechanisms for the ailerons and air brakes. Which, as it turns out, is quite a fiddly thing to do. We also sandblast one of the ailerons with soda (not the type that you drink). We want to remove some scratches from the rear canopy by polishing it. However, none of us have done that before so we first do a test on a broken canopy from a K 8 b (yes, it's written like that ;-) ).
I hope you liked this video. If you did, please consider subscribing to this channel.
Timestamps:
00:00 Previously...
00:29 Intro
00:57 Tetris!
01:36 Disassembling controls
05:47 Soda blasting aileron
07:35 Polishing experiment
Music:
Memories - Royalty Free Music from Bensound
"Late Night Radio" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
Korobeiniki - by: Bogozi
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
creativecommons.org/licenses/... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Step by step airplane restoration is hard to find. Great video!
Hi Jordan, thanks for your comment!
Good ol gameboy tetris music! Happy to see more progress! I've had a lot of progress on my sailplane. I've had more encouragement recently due to these interesting videos.
Hi, thanks for your comment. Haha yes, with moving around everything else to get the wings inside it really felt like playing Tetris on a giant scale. Great to hear that your restoration project is also making progress! Best wishes for the new year!
When working on the bare wings, check the glue joint between the wing spar face and the attachment block of the underwing wheels. They have a tendency to fail due to the loads on the wingwheels. The attachment block sometimes splits along the grain, too. Also, check for wood deterioration in the top wing spar at the spoiler hinge line. Rain water tends to ingress in here, through the screwholes of the spoiler hinges.
Thanks for your comment and suggestion! We will definitely do that (probably after sanding the paint off). I already had a quick look at the attachment blocks for the wheels, which seem fine, but we still have to check everything more extensively. The spoiler hinge line I checked, after your earlier comment, this seems to be fine as well. In one place there is a bit of a gap but I cannot insert a metal feeler more than 1.5mm in the gap (after that it feels solid). It looks like this spot could have used a little more glue during construction (was never glued until the edge or could have been pressed a bit better). The D-nose skin is definitely attached well to the top of the spar. Probably the best solution is to slightly sand into the gap and then fill with Aerodux for waterproofing, but structurally it seems fine. No wood deterioration that I could see, luckily. But perhaps we will see more after sanding... Thanks for your comment, very useful points to check!
I worked in a canopy repair bay for a couple of years. The higher grade sanding medium is called micromesh. These guys missed out several grades, I'd recommend using all of them. Go one way with one grit, then 90 degrees out with the next one expanding the area each time by a cm.
Hi Simon, thanks for your comment! Although it may not show in the video (it shows several days work in 10 minutes) we went from 400,800, 1200, 2400, 3200, 6500 grit in 'sandpaper' and then two different types of polishing paste. We mostly went around in circles. What grit sizes do you recommend?
Interesting. Advice may come in handy. I own a Bergfalke IV in Greece.
Hi Vassilios, thanks for your comment. Nice that you have a BF4! We also own a Bergfalke IV (D-3700). If you have any questions then feel free to ask. I don't know if I will be able to answer all, but I'll try!
@@TheOddVideoChannel czcams.com/video/uMJfVXugQ0o/video.html
Nice plane, it seems really in its element in the mountains (bergfalke = mountain falcon)!
Thank you for the video. I am thinking of buying a falke and do some work on it.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I would say, if you can find a nice Falke to work on, go for it. They are well built and well designed planes.
@@TheOddVideoChannel Thanks for the encouragement, I'll be watching the rest of your videos as I'm going.
Thanks! It has been a while since I worked on the plane (renovating a house at the moment), but more will come.
Well done guys. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Kristien!
Loving these videos keep it up, I hope to see it flying 'soon' :)
Hi Tomer, thanks for your comment!
Greetings from Greece! Thank you for sharing this exciting restoration. I confess I am becoming very jealous and consider to buy also an old falke to fix. How do you check that the wood iin the wings is structurally OK for these old birds? Are you checking for rot? Also how to check that wood adhesives used in the construction are still OK? Sorry for my many questions looking forward to the rest of the restoration and ...flying
Did you decide on a paint scheme?
Hi Gabriel, thanks for you comment! If you have the chance to restore one, go for it! No better way to get to know everything about your plane. With respect to the wood: we generally have a careful look for anything 'out of the ordinary' such as cracks, gaps, de-lamination of plywood layers, and deformation. Glue can be checked by applying some pressure (with your fingers or a small metal feeler) to some glue joints. If one or more of the random inspections fail then the whole wing needs to be checked. In my experience, if you can figure out that it is Aerodux rather than Kaurit the chance that everything is fine goes way up. I know that @kauritglueingliders sometimes reads these comments so he might have more tips and tricks. We have some rough ideas for the paint scheme but nothing has been decided yet. Basically three are two main ideas: similar color scheme as our glider (D-3700 Bergfalke 4) to make a 'fleet' or something completely different like wasp-like yellow with black. And of course, feel free to ask as many questions as you like!
@@TheOddVideoChannel Generally speaking, Falkes are built very strong and do not suffer much from glue failure. The wood and plywood used is of very high quality, and any damage is easy to spot when stripped down. The most relevant area to check on motorized Falkes, is the hinge linge of the airbrakes. Rainwater tends to get pulled in under the piano hinges, and through the screw holes affects the upper spar cap. The best way to check, is to strip the paint off this area, and try and insert a thin blade between the plywood of the D-nose and the top spar cap. If this goes in, stripping back the plywood is in order to inspect the underlaying wood of the spar cap for rot. Some years back I had one in that had around 1/3 of the top spar cap rotted away, reduced push strength (i.e. flight forces) in the spar by 1/3!
Thanks for joining in the discussion, that is indeed a good spot to check!