So long as they're the HL3Z-CD phaser they're the same as the ML3Z-A. The ML3Z-A is what you're thinking of with the cage over the spring. The ML3Z-A otherwise is the same part from a different supplier.
@@BuckChoklitt Wrong! The HL3Z are the OEM parts that WILL fail. The improved parts are the ML3Z phasers with the cover and (hopefully ) failure resistant. I just got my '19 back and physically saw the two side by side, The dealer used the new Motorcraft ML3Z pieces and it was done at ~46,000 miles under Ford's TSB 23-2143 at no cost to me.
Did you replace the seal on the timing cover for the oil pump selonoid if so what’s the easiest way to do it without the special seal installer my truck has 66k miles 2017 the dealership did the timing cover leak job messed up 2 got it right the 3rd time now my oil pump selonoid is messed up gotta replace the oil pump by myself cuz them or the warranty company won’t do anything about it 4600 miles after the had the timing cover off 3 times now it randomly looses oil pressure but still actually has oil pressure throws a po6DA code oil pressure selonoid check failed so gotta replace the whole thing myself any advice from anyone would be much appreciated starting this Friday night Aug 30th
Yeah I replaced the oil pump solenoid seal. I usually lube it up with some sil-glyde or you can use oil. I sometimes can work it in by hand or use a little hammer to work it in. But make sure to double check the circuit because I believe that P06DA code is a circuit code. That wire runs along the front of the engine behind the belt and sometime techs won’t secure it properly and will damage that harness that controls the solenoid. Either way I hope you get it fixed!
When priming, Is there a specific reason to go through disconnecting the fuel pump rather than just using the "clear flood" function built into it by holding the accelerator to the floor (keeping the injectors from pulsing)?
Honestly I know about the flood mode, but never even thought about using to prime the phasers 🤯. I think you are right in it would be easier to do flood mode after doing the repair. I’m definitely going to start doing that from now on! Appreciate your comment
Hello, I saw your video and it caught my attention. I have a 2018 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L and I am having problems with that noise and the transmission. What part of the country are you!! I would like to solve those problems.
Great video. Is the rattling noise just a nuisance, or does it indicate a future failure? I have a 2023 F150 with the 3.5 EcoBoost. I did my first oil change at 4000 miles and plan to do it around every 4000. Is there anything else you recommend to keep that engine running solid?
Yeah at this time it just mostly a noise concern. And as far as maintaining the 3.5L consistent oil changes goes a long way. 4000 miles interval is perfect and a lot better than the manufacture's interval which is 7,500-10,000 miles in my personal opinion. And maintain the other fluids as well like the coolant, transmission fluid, differential fluid, just to overall keep the vehicle in good shape. Thanks for the comment!
I made sure that the customer has all the important part numbers that I installed in the vehicle for the record keeping of their vehicle. Sometimes that is all I can do in the position that I am in. I mentioned some videos that explain the VCT failure in part 1 that I believe is very valuable. Hopefully more people will be more informed like you my friend. Thanks for the comment!
@@godspeedautoshopnice job. Sorry, from your response to the other person, did you suggest the new ones and the customer said no, or they specifically asked for those? I'm just unclear about what you meant. Are there any advantages to the older ones? Also I've seen several mentions they were getting discontinued after the new ones came out!?
How long approximately did it take you to do this with all the camera changes etc? How long normally? How long for the weekend warrior? Besides the pulley puller, cam locker and the Long Reach Harmonic Balancer, what if any other specialty tools needed?
Took me about a day in a half with recording everything. Usually can get the job done in one day if there is no hiccups. For a weekend warrior very possible to get it done in two days. Definitely would want a torque wrench.
I'm probably overdue for a timing chain and belts so if maybe do that at the same time, what's the life on the water pump? Worth doing that while you're in there?
Kind of depends how miles are on the water pump. If I was doing this on my own vehicle I would just go ahead and replace water pump and thermostat while I am already in there. Peace of mind knowing that I don’t have to replace soon after I did timing.
Big job. Is is eaiser to remove the radiator? Would like to do this with out messing with the a/c system or trans coolers. But with it removed- job looks hella eaiser.
Good question! I haven’t done the repair by just removing the radiator before. I know when I used to do the repair from the top removing the cooling fans gives you more room especially removing turbo pipes. But if you asking if you can remove the front clip without touching the A/C system or trans cooler lines. You might be able too. You can reposition the trans cooler out the way towards the bottom. Then once removed the front clip you can maybe swing the condenser like a door to the left to give you more room.
@@EcoBelkin there's another tech who seems to remove the whole body when doing this job, looks like crazy overkill. I like this, sitting in the engine. 🙂
Why did you not use the new phasers?
I was wondering the same?
So long as they're the HL3Z-CD phaser they're the same as the ML3Z-A. The ML3Z-A is what you're thinking of with the cage over the spring. The ML3Z-A otherwise is the same part from a different supplier.
Probably Warranty job lol, they need to get them off the shelves somehow
@@BuckChoklitt Wrong! The HL3Z are the OEM parts that WILL fail. The improved parts are the ML3Z phasers with the cover and (hopefully ) failure resistant. I just got my '19 back and physically saw the two side by side, The dealer used the new Motorcraft ML3Z pieces and it was done at ~46,000 miles under Ford's TSB 23-2143 at no cost to me.
Did you replace the seal on the timing cover for the oil pump selonoid if so what’s the easiest way to do it without the special seal installer my truck has 66k miles 2017 the dealership did the timing cover leak job messed up 2 got it right the 3rd time now my oil pump selonoid is messed up gotta replace the oil pump by myself cuz them or the warranty company won’t do anything about it 4600 miles after the had the timing cover off 3 times now it randomly looses oil pressure but still actually has oil pressure throws a po6DA code oil pressure selonoid check failed so gotta replace the whole thing myself any advice from anyone would be much appreciated starting this Friday night Aug 30th
Yeah I replaced the oil pump solenoid seal. I usually lube it up with some sil-glyde or you can use oil. I sometimes can work it in by hand or use a little hammer to work it in. But make sure to double check the circuit because I believe that P06DA code is a circuit code. That wire runs along the front of the engine behind the belt and sometime techs won’t secure it properly and will damage that harness that controls the solenoid. Either way I hope you get it fixed!
When priming, Is there a specific reason to go through disconnecting the fuel pump rather than just using the "clear flood" function built into it by holding the accelerator to the floor (keeping the injectors from pulsing)?
Honestly I know about the flood mode, but never even thought about using to prime the phasers 🤯. I think you are right in it would be easier to do flood mode after doing the repair. I’m definitely going to start doing that from now on! Appreciate your comment
Great job !!! 👍
Thank you! 👍
Hello, I saw your video and it caught my attention. I have a 2018 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L and I am having problems with that noise and the transmission. What part of the country are you!! I would like to solve those problems.
You seem to know your way around the EB motor, nice job.
I see a Colorado D-Tag on your wall, are you near Denver?
Thanks I appreciate it. Good eye and yep in the Front Range of Colorado.
Great video. Is the rattling noise just a nuisance, or does it indicate a future failure? I have a 2023 F150 with the 3.5 EcoBoost. I did my first oil change at 4000 miles and plan to do it around every 4000. Is there anything else you recommend to keep that engine running solid?
Yeah at this time it just mostly a noise concern. And as far as maintaining the 3.5L consistent oil changes goes a long way. 4000 miles interval is perfect and a lot better than the manufacture's interval which is 7,500-10,000 miles in my personal opinion. And maintain the other fluids as well like the coolant, transmission fluid, differential fluid, just to overall keep the vehicle in good shape. Thanks for the comment!
You have a 2023, they updated the phasers (not used here). You have a slim chance that yours will fail.
There is an updated cam phaser out that should eliminate the rattle. You replaced yours with the same defective model 😮
I made sure that the customer has all the important part numbers that I installed in the vehicle for the record keeping of their vehicle. Sometimes that is all I can do in the position that I am in. I mentioned some videos that explain the VCT failure in part 1 that I believe is very valuable. Hopefully more people will be more informed like you my friend. Thanks for the comment!
@@godspeedautoshopnice job. Sorry, from your response to the other person, did you suggest the new ones and the customer said no, or they specifically asked for those? I'm just unclear about what you meant. Are there any advantages to the older ones? Also I've seen several mentions they were getting discontinued after the new ones came out!?
What do you do when your strip the vct bolt
i have welded a nut to the bolt ,heat conduct through the bolt. intake left side was a sucker to get off, the cam tool even spread out
How long approximately did it take you to do this with all the camera changes etc? How long normally? How long for the weekend warrior?
Besides the pulley puller, cam locker and the Long Reach Harmonic Balancer, what if any other specialty tools needed?
Took me about a day in a half with recording everything. Usually can get the job done in one day if there is no hiccups. For a weekend warrior very possible to get it done in two days. Definitely would want a torque wrench.
I'm probably overdue for a timing chain and belts so if maybe do that at the same time, what's the life on the water pump? Worth doing that while you're in there?
Kind of depends how miles are on the water pump. If I was doing this on my own vehicle I would just go ahead and replace water pump and thermostat while I am already in there. Peace of mind knowing that I don’t have to replace soon after I did timing.
Big job. Is is eaiser to remove the radiator? Would like to do this with out messing with the a/c system or trans coolers.
But with it removed- job looks hella eaiser.
Good question! I haven’t done the repair by just removing the radiator before. I know when I used to do the repair from the top removing the cooling fans gives you more room especially removing turbo pipes.
But if you asking if you can remove the front clip without touching the A/C system or trans cooler lines. You might be able too. You can reposition the trans cooler out the way towards the bottom. Then once removed the front clip you can maybe swing the condenser like a door to the left to give you more room.
@godspeedautoshop I should have stated is the job easier to do with removal of the front clip vs not. Thanks for the information.
Oh yeah a lot easier with it removed in my opinion. Once I learned it to do it this way I never done it any other way.
@@EcoBelkin there's another tech who seems to remove the whole body when doing this job, looks like crazy overkill.
I like this, sitting in the engine. 🙂
@supastyles1 yeah- that's how I've seen it done- cab removal. Not sure that's doable with an expedition...
What tool did you use too put back that crank pulley?
It’s called a Long Reach Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool
@@godspeedautoshop thank you!
What's the name of the tool you used to slightly rotate your VCT to allow the install of the Camshaft holding tool?
It’s an 11mm impact ribe bit socket.