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Yeah I replaced the oil pump solenoid seal. I usually lube it up with some sil-glyde or you can use oil. I sometimes can work it in by hand or use a little hammer to work it in. But make sure to double check the circuit because I believe that P06DA code is a circuit code. That wire runs along the front of the engine behind the belt and sometime techs won’t secure it properly and will damage that harness that controls the solenoid. Either way I hope you get it fixed!

I appreciate it! But yeah that is a good question. This is my first time doing this job and don’t work on too many LM2 to know if this is a common issue or not. My guess is probably how the truck is being used. If it being used to haul heavy stuff that is definitely going to put more stress on the chain unlike the other heavy duty trucks that are gear driven. But I have also seen a lot of other GM vehicles having stretch chain issues 🤷🏻‍♂️ so maybe GM don’t make good chains for their vehicles.

Yeah they don’t make simple motors no more unfortunately 😂. I believe this head gasket job on a 2.3L is about 20 hours. Depending on the labor rate it’s going to be around $3,000 just for labor. I think I saw ChrisFix did a video about using head gasket leak fix. That might be a good watch for you to determine if you want to go that route.

@@godspeedautoshop i had just watched it today before you commented. I think I'll get a tester kit and make sure its coolant getting in the head and then do it. Thanks for the reply.

@@godspeedautoshop i mean it too, really, thanks for the reply, you answering the hours and approximate cost helped. I appreciate it. :)

Honestly I know about the flood mode, but never even thought about using to prime the phasers 🤯. I think you are right in it would be easier to do flood mode after doing the repair. I’m definitely going to start doing that from now on! Appreciate your comment

It’s ok you are forgiven

Hiw do you do it without ripping the entire dash apart. I have to replace this

Yeah absolutely good question! The head-gasket has a big job in keeping the engine running properly. It keeps the oil and coolant separated and seals the head and engine to have a combustion chamber. Head-gasket is always experiencing pressure from oil, coolant, and the combustion while engine is running. Now with these Ecoboost engines (1.5L, 2.0L, 2.3L) they have a turbo which forces more air into the combustion chamber. This of course will dramatically increase the combustion chamber pressure and more pressure on the head-gasket. Now it’s not the turbo neither is it really the head-gasket fault they are just part of the equation. The point of failure is really the way the engineers design these short blocks. I showed in the video that there are slits in between the cylinders for coolant to pass through. So the cross section of the head-gasket between the cylinders is very small. So after a while that specific part of the head-gasket between the cylinders, which is the weakest, will leak coolant into the cylinders. So a couple of years ago when most of these vehicles with these engines were still under warranty, the fix would be replacing the short block because they re-designed the block to remove those slits and drilled holes to allow coolant to pass through.

@@godspeedautoshop For Ford. Does this problem occur in all engines that are designed with a turbo system? And how is it for other engines 2.7 - 3.5. And does this problem also occur in engines that are not equipped with a turbo system?. ... Thank you

@Benbenford I really only seen this problem on the 4 turbo cylinders engines. The 2.7L V6 don’t have the slits, and 3.5L have the slits, but they don’t really have coolant intrusion in the cylinders problem. They got their own problems lol.

For the turbo lines it depends how easy they come out in order to move the turbo to the side. (In most cases the lines always get damaged/bent from removing them.) As for as the A/C system I decided to evacuate the Freon to remove the A/C line above the front cover. So when going back together it is a little smoother going back in with the RTV seal. Defiantly not a must just made that part a little easier.

i have welded a nut to the bolt ,heat conduct through the bolt. intake left side was a sucker to get off, the cam tool even spread out

Appreciate it my friend!

Awesome vids with great detail! About to tear into my 2.3 in my RS which the headgasket failed on for the 2nd time. It's now out of warranty of course but just over 55k miles. Keep up the great work!

I appreciate it! There is indeed a part 3 of putting everything back together.

Glad it was helpful! To answer your question there is a little lever that is part of the exterior door handle that will disengage the latch. At 16:30 you will be able to see that little lever on the handle top middle of the screen.

Yeah there are a couple things that should be replaced when doing a job like this, like the exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, crank seal, valve cover gasket, and certain o-rings.

​@@godspeedautoshop thanks, i have to do the same thing to my engine in my explorer, i had a cylinder 3 misfire and after everything else checked out good, i looked inside the cylinder with an endoscope and sure enough i have fluid intrusion around the gasket only in this cylinder. I have the service manual from ford, but i think your videos will be more helpful to me, thanks for posting these videos🙌

Thank you! 👍

I’m not quite understanding your question. Are you asking if you have to remove the intake to remove the turbo?

Thanks I appreciate it. Good eye and yep in the Front Range of Colorado.

Any time

Kind of depends how miles are on the water pump. If I was doing this on my own vehicle I would just go ahead and replace water pump and thermostat while I am already in there. Peace of mind knowing that I don’t have to replace soon after I did timing.

Took me about a day in a half with recording everything. Usually can get the job done in one day if there is no hiccups. For a weekend warrior very possible to get it done in two days. Definitely would want a torque wrench.

Thank you!

I think removing those two lines are a must if you want to position the cooling module to the side. The A/C lines do have play, but I don’t think enough without damaging or compromising the integrity of the lines.

It’s called a Long Reach Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool

@@godspeedautoshop thank you!

It’s an 11mm impact ribe bit socket.

I was wondering the same?

So long as they're the HL3Z-CD phaser they're the same as the ML3Z-A. The ML3Z-A is what you're thinking of with the cage over the spring. The ML3Z-A otherwise is the same part from a different supplier.

Probably Warranty job lol, they need to get them off the shelves somehow

@@BuckChoklitt Wrong! The HL3Z are the OEM parts that WILL fail. The improved parts are the ML3Z phasers with the cover and (hopefully ) failure resistant. I just got my '19 back and physically saw the two side by side, The dealer used the new Motorcraft ML3Z pieces and it was done at ~46,000 miles under Ford's TSB 23-2143 at no cost to me.

I made sure that the customer has all the important part numbers that I installed in the vehicle for the record keeping of their vehicle. Sometimes that is all I can do in the position that I am in. I mentioned some videos that explain the VCT failure in part 1 that I believe is very valuable. Hopefully more people will be more informed like you my friend. Thanks for the comment!

​@@godspeedautoshopnice job. Sorry, from your response to the other person, did you suggest the new ones and the customer said no, or they specifically asked for those? I'm just unclear about what you meant. Are there any advantages to the older ones? Also I've seen several mentions they were getting discontinued after the new ones came out!?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Glad it was helpful!

Update, just finished taking it off, it’s basically the same just look around and you’ll find what they changed it’s pretty obvious

Cool man thanks for the update! I’m sure this would help a lot other people out wondering if it’s almost the same process for other years and makes. Glad it all worked out

No problem!

Good question! I haven’t done the repair by just removing the radiator before. I know when I used to do the repair from the top removing the cooling fans gives you more room especially removing turbo pipes. But if you asking if you can remove the front clip without touching the A/C system or trans cooler lines. You might be able too. You can reposition the trans cooler out the way towards the bottom. Then once removed the front clip you can maybe swing the condenser like a door to the left to give you more room.

@godspeedautoshop I should have stated is the job easier to do with removal of the front clip vs not. Thanks for the information.

Oh yeah a lot easier with it removed in my opinion. Once I learned it to do it this way I never done it any other way.

​@@EcoBelkin there's another tech who seems to remove the whole body when doing this job, looks like crazy overkill. I like this, sitting in the engine. 🙂

@supastyles1 yeah- that's how I've seen it done- cab removal. Not sure that's doable with an expedition...

Yeah at this time it just mostly a noise concern. And as far as maintaining the 3.5L consistent oil changes goes a long way. 4000 miles interval is perfect and a lot better than the manufacture's interval which is 7,500-10,000 miles in my personal opinion. And maintain the other fluids as well like the coolant, transmission fluid, differential fluid, just to overall keep the vehicle in good shape. Thanks for the comment!

You have a 2023, they updated the phasers (not used here). You have a slim chance that yours will fail.

It might look daunting, but luckily they give you workshop manuals just in case you forget.

No problem!

Glad I can help out!

Honestly I’m really not sure for the ls430. But from taking a look and comparing the ls400 and ls430 rear bumper it looks very similar where it mounts to the rear quarter panel. So the procedure might be the same to remove it, but it might have some more fastener locations or in different places. Sorry I couldn’t be more of a help, but hopefully your able to remove it.

@@godspeedautoshop thanx anyway

No problem

I appreciate that!

I’m glad it was helpful man and was able to provide a visual! Yeah I think it might be possible without taking the window out, but like you said it can be frustrating. I like taking the window out just so it’s a lot easier. And those plastic clips those are always a hit or miss with them staying intact, but good thing you were able to fix them up. Godspeed ✌️

Thanks man! Hopefully you will be able to fix it.

No problem!

Thank you, appreciate the follow! ✌️

No problem!

Thanks man! As for your question it really depends where your apprenticeship will be, - like if it’s at a dealership than your going be more focused on a couple of makes of vehicles and working on little more newer stuff, and R&R (Remove&Replace) - Independent/ Specialty shops are going are going to be a little bit different type of work. But I guess a piece of advice no matter what area you go in is to - absorb all the knowledge that is being taught to you -ask a lot of questions -focus on doing it right way - and yes patience…your patience will be tested a lot

Thanks for responding next fall am gonna apply in a community college a automobile industry major i dont know where the road gonna take me im hoping for an dealer ship for basic experience am 17

Most welcome

Glad it was helpful!