Yes this young man is AWESOME! I have a 76 Chevy truck with a 292. I’m sure this cost a pretty penny to complete this job. If I had the money I would hire him to help me to do the work. Plus he’s a Christian man that plants good seeds. Thank you for your videos!., God bless 🙏😎
I'm sorry but I could watch this guy all day! I sure could have used this when I was in Automotives Class but that was in the 70s! This guy explains EVERYTHING!
Absolutely! Always check your bearing clearances I found out the hard way with some wrong stamped bearings one time. A very rare instance but it can happen!
Thank you so much for your great video. I loved watching you lovingly dismantle and rebuild that big 6 engine. Personally, I have a 1966 C-10, short bed in the side yard that I haven't run since 1992. I put a fuel stabilizer in the tank 20 years ago but nothing else has been done to it. I get lots of offers to buy it but it's sentimental to my family and especially my son. I drove him home from the hospital in that truck shortly after he was born in 1970. Now we want to get it running but I have very little mechanical ability, and my son has even less. I can replace a radiator, water pump, plugs and such and I've rebuilt a carburetor but I've never dismantled an engine larger than a lawnmower. The truck did have a few pesky, problems when I used to drive it. A small gas leak at the filler pipe, the gas gauge didn't work anymore and the teeth at the bottom of the distributor didn't engage in a way that let me set the points with a gauge. ( I had to set the timing by turning the distributor by hand while it ran at different revs until it ran "perfect".) Also, if you connected the vacuum line, it would kill the engine. I'm considering pulling the plugs and giving each cylinder a shot of motor oil, just to loosen things up a bit. Also, should I try to turn the crankshaft? Should I just take it to a mechanic? (I'm not rich.) I am totally unsure as to what to do next. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If you are too busy to respond, that's cool. I understand. I can dream that your video was the rebuilding of my old truck. Thanks again for posting the series.
Go to Walmart or a parts store and pick up a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and put a dash of that in the cylinders. Let it soak for a couple days, then with the plugs out you can try turning it by hand or touch the key and see if it will crank for you. I'm not sure of the longevity of Stabil in a tank, so the gas may still burn, or it may not. Did you run the engine with Stabil in the tank? Just wondering if any got to the carb. More than likely the gas in the carb will be dried out. When trying to start it you will need to prime the carb and probably tap around lightly on the bowl with a hammer handle to shake the float and needle down. Let me know what happens!
Awesome series. I'm building a 250 using your videos, but can't find the one for installing the heads to the block. Guessing it would be video 7?..been great help> Thanks!
Dear Jayhawker My Name is Ian Andron, and I live on a ranch in southeastern Colorado. This year, I decided to do a motor rebuild on a 1970 Chevy 292 with my grandfather, as it was a vehicle that was special to him when he was a young man in the same period of life as I am now. I have done 90 percent of the work myself (save the machining). We live about four hours from the closest machine shop, which has made the trip to and from very consuming, both of time and resources. It took almost five months to get the motor home which was the first headache, but upon further inspection I have noticed a few aspects concerning the work done at the shop that seem less than perfect. I got the pistons installed and the crank torqued down, and when I went to install the cam I found that the bearings that they pressed in seemed to be quite out of alignment with the oil holes. I'm am a novice to this, and from what I do know, it seems like somewhat of a chore to remove and press in new bearings. My heart tells me that these bearings are not correct but I also appreciate I could be overly concerned and ignorant on the matter. The first bearing that is the most off is flush with the outside of the block, but I didn't remove them myself and don't know what it looked like previously. Any input that you might have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for the time. Sincerely, Ian Andron
Hi Ian, Yes you need to be very careful to get the oil holes lined up. Do I need to make a service call? :-) Maybe you could convince the machine shop that they need to come out and do it right.
Thank you so much for the reply sir! Maybe I should keep you on speed dial for all of my, " novice mechanic questions. :) I just broke down and bought the berrings installer for the cam. Seems like anyone in ag sure needs a lot of equipment and tools to operate, but if you need it, I always figured it was money well spent. I really appreciate you input. Also, I had one more question to put to you. I saw in your other video that it looked like you put the head gasket on straight out of the packaging. I have some hi tack gasket sealant that I was going to use, but it seems like if you apply it and put the gasket in place, then you really only have one chance to get it right or your up a certain creek without a certain rowing device. Does the head gasket really need anything on it? Thank you again sir.
@@julieandron1257 Hello again, and thanks for all the kind words they are truly appreciated. If you are using any type of "modern" head gasket such as the blue Fel-Pro type there is already a sealant coating on the gasket and nothing else is necessary. Head gaskets from the good old days were often simply bare copper and although the factory service manual may not have specified it, a sealant was generally used for installation. The most often used being a copper spray type.
I got them all but one for number 2 or 3 cylinder, but at this point the lobes aren't a concern until I put the lifters in anyway, and I'll be sure to lube all of that as I'm putting them in. Thanks for watching, and looking out for me! I need it!
I valve never done this before on an I6, I hav worked with VW air cooled. The question is, would you want to torn down the rods before you spin the crank at all? Just to make sure the bearings stay in place? Or would it even matter? Great video
It is Alpine Green. It wasn't used that much by Chevy. GMC also used it in the '60s. It is most often seen on Detroit Diesels and that is what you would want to search for. Dupli-Color markets it as alpine green for detroit diesels.
Yes this young man is AWESOME! I have a 76 Chevy truck with a 292. I’m sure this cost a pretty penny to complete this job. If I had the money I would hire him to help me to do the work. Plus he’s a Christian man that plants good seeds.
Thank you for your videos!.,
God bless
🙏😎
I'm sorry but I could watch this guy all day! I sure could have used this when I was in Automotives Class but that was in the 70s! This guy explains EVERYTHING!
Nice work, looking forward to the finished engine beauty.
Thank you for the time and effort you put into these excellent videos.
Absolutely! Always check your bearing clearances I found out the hard way with some wrong stamped bearings one time. A very rare instance but it can happen!
Thank you so much for your great video. I loved watching you lovingly dismantle and rebuild that big 6 engine.
Personally, I have a 1966 C-10, short bed in the side yard that I haven't run since 1992. I put a fuel stabilizer in the tank 20 years ago but nothing else has been done to it. I get lots of offers to buy it but it's sentimental to my family and especially my son. I drove him home from the hospital in that truck shortly after he was born in 1970. Now we want to get it running but I have very little mechanical ability, and my son has even less. I can replace a radiator, water pump, plugs and such and I've rebuilt a carburetor but I've never dismantled an engine larger than a lawnmower. The truck did have a few pesky, problems when I used to drive it. A small gas leak at the filler pipe, the gas gauge didn't work anymore and the teeth at the bottom of the distributor didn't engage in a way that let me set the points with a gauge. ( I had to set the timing by turning the distributor by hand while it ran at different revs until it ran "perfect".) Also, if you connected the vacuum line, it would kill the engine.
I'm considering pulling the plugs and giving each cylinder a shot of motor oil, just to loosen things up a bit. Also, should I try to turn the crankshaft? Should I just take it to a mechanic? (I'm not rich.) I am totally unsure as to what to do next. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If you are too busy to respond, that's cool. I understand. I can dream that your video was the rebuilding of my old truck. Thanks again for posting the series.
Go to Walmart or a parts store and pick up a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and put a dash of that in the cylinders. Let it soak for a couple days, then with the plugs out you can try turning it by hand or touch the key and see if it will crank for you. I'm not sure of the longevity of Stabil in a tank, so the gas may still burn, or it may not. Did you run the engine with Stabil in the tank? Just wondering if any got to the carb. More than likely the gas in the carb will be dried out. When trying to start it you will need to prime the carb and probably tap around lightly on the bowl with a hammer handle to shake the float and needle down. Let me know what happens!
Nice demonstration 🔧🛻
excellent content
you helped me out a lot!!!!
i hope you get the head and rest on it and make a video!
Yes I sure will, thanks for watching!
Great videos very helpful did you purchase a specific rebuilding kit?
Awesome series. I'm building a 250 using your videos, but can't find the one for installing the heads to the block. Guessing it would be video 7?..been great help> Thanks!
Yes, #7 will get ya. Thanks for watching.
Dear Jayhawker
My Name is Ian Andron, and I live on a ranch in southeastern Colorado. This year, I decided to do a motor rebuild on a 1970 Chevy 292 with my grandfather, as it was a vehicle that was special to him when he was a young man in the same period of life as I am now.
I have done 90 percent of the work myself (save the machining). We live about four hours from the closest machine shop, which has made the trip to and from very consuming, both of time and resources. It took almost five months to get the motor home which was the first headache, but upon further inspection I have noticed a few aspects concerning the work done at the shop that seem less than perfect.
I got the pistons installed and the crank torqued down, and when I went to install the cam I found that the bearings that they pressed in seemed to be quite out of alignment with the oil holes. I'm am a novice to this, and from what I do know, it seems like somewhat of a chore to remove and press in new bearings. My heart tells me that these bearings are not correct but I also appreciate I could be overly concerned and ignorant on the matter. The first bearing that is the most off is flush with the outside of the block, but I didn't remove them myself and don't know what it looked like previously.
Any input that you might have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for the time.
Sincerely,
Ian Andron
Hi Ian, Yes you need to be very careful to get the oil holes lined up. Do I need to make a service call? :-) Maybe you could convince the machine shop that they need to come out and do it right.
Thank you so much for the reply sir! Maybe I should keep you on speed dial for all of my, " novice mechanic questions. :) I just broke down and bought the berrings installer for the cam. Seems like anyone in ag sure needs a lot of equipment and tools to operate, but if you need it, I always figured it was money well spent. I really appreciate you input. Also, I had one more question to put to you. I saw in your other video that it looked like you put the head gasket on straight out of the packaging. I have some hi tack gasket sealant that I was going to use, but it seems like if you apply it and put the gasket in place, then you really only have one chance to get it right or your up a certain creek without a certain rowing device. Does the head gasket really need anything on it? Thank you again sir.
@@julieandron1257 Hello again, and thanks for all the kind words they are truly appreciated. If you are using any type of "modern" head gasket such as the blue Fel-Pro type there is already a sealant coating on the gasket and nothing else is necessary. Head gaskets from the good old days were often simply bare copper and although the factory service manual may not have specified it, a sealant was generally used for installation. The most often used being a copper spray type.
Are you able to reuse all factory bolts and nuts even for the head bolts?
Did you lube the first cam lobe to go in? It looks like you skipped it.
I got them all but one for number 2 or 3 cylinder, but at this point the lobes aren't a concern until I put the lifters in anyway, and I'll be sure to lube all of that as I'm putting them in. Thanks for watching, and looking out for me! I need it!
Would you ever consider rebuilding another 292 but for me ?
sure would. email me at ratzlaffmotorco@yahoo.com
I valve never done this before on an I6, I hav worked with VW air cooled. The question is, would you want to torn down the rods before you spin the crank at all? Just to make sure the bearings stay in place? Or would it even matter? Great video
Torque not torn.
Do you put lock tight on the thrust plate screws.
To keep the bearings from slipping, AND because the rod is machined when torqued, so its actually out-of-round when not torqued.
Did you do anything to add some more power and torque?
This is purely factory rebuild except for the cylinders being bored .020 over. So instead of being a 292 it would be more like a 298.
What is the color of that paint ? I like it.
It is Alpine Green. It wasn't used that much by Chevy. GMC also used it in the '60s. It is most often seen on Detroit Diesels and that is what you would want to search for. Dupli-Color markets it as alpine green for detroit diesels.
Do you have an email contact? Would like to get your opinion or advice on 235 engine or 350 sb engine
yes, ratzlaffmotorco@yahoo.com or click on the email button on the top of my home page