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- čas přidán 27. 04. 2024
- In this video I experimented with installing a 16 tooth front (engine) sprocket and then I talk about the end result behaviour of the bike with the +1 tooth extra in the front.
Why?
To fix the inaccuracy of the speedometer (~+8km/h)
To utilize the excessive low end torque of this engine and convert it into more speed.
+6% Better fuel economy
To reclaim the usefulness 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears.
To make the bike feel and sound a little more old fashioned as it revs through longer gears.
How?
To do this you’ll need:
27mm socket and 1/2” breaker bar
H5 socket or Allen key
14mm socket
10mm socket
8mm socket
Molybdenum bisulphate paste
1/2” Torque wrench
~2h for the job for #w650 #w800 #meguro
Update:
After riding a few more days on 16/39 ratio I can say that for a W650 it’s going to work; however, it’s just a tad too tall and I can feel it as I climb steep hills or trying to accelerate fast off the line. Don’t get me wrong, it’s fine for 95% of rides, but if you carry a passenger be prepared to lower the gear. Now I know that the absolutely perfect ratio for W650 is 15/37.
Things are different for W800/K3 owners. Since the W800 comes with 15/37 from the factory, has ~30kg more weight and has a lower 1st gear [but all other gears are the same as in W650] the W800 would benefit from much less drastic 15/36 or 16/39 final drive ratio. The OEM W800’s ratio (15/37) is actually better than on the 650. The problem only is that the speedometer is wrong by ~6-8km/h.
In conclusion the 16t is good, but 15/37 is better for W650. For W800 I would not recommend to change the final drive ratio much at all. -1 tooth from the back max.
Brilliant video tutorial. You are very thorough in your explanations. Thank you! Ill absolutely think about this when i replace the chain. Ive subscribed to your channel. Mine is a 2003 flatbar model. Your bike is in beautiful condition. Look forward to more videos. Ps like your channel "Fallout" graphic!
After riding on a 16/39t for a while I now recommend 15/37t setup when you change the chain. On higher rpms (>4000rpm) 16t is a tad too tall and acceleration is slightly reduced. It’s not a huge deal, but now I understand why Kawasaki ended up installing 15/37 on all W bikes after 2006. I don’t see any difference in fuel efficiency after swapping the front sprocket.
@dirtyadventure8481 Great! Thank you for the update. Perhaps my first step should be to count the teeth that are there now. Who knows? This might have been done . The speedo is over optimistic as is.
Thank you, much. ... I just acquired a 2000 W650, .. and need to learn all aspects. .. Trying to find tutorial/video on valve/shim adjustment. There's one here, on CZcams, by an Italian, but, I don't speak the language. ..... Previous bike was an '84 Honda VF1100c Magna, .. 20 years ago. .. Hope to adjust to the power difference.
I have a valve check video on my channel. Do the valve check to determine if you need a valve shim replacement or not. Chances are you don’t need a shim replacement at all. In case you do need to replace a shim or two all you have to do is to remove the old shim and put it the new shim. You don’t really need a whole separate video on it… Use the valve shim replacement table in the service manual to find the height of the replacement shim. This makes me think that I do need to create a new video just for the shimming procedure…
What a great tutorial, thank you! There's another video out there of this mod done to a newer W800 and apparently the speedometer is also inaccurate on these even with the slightly different stock gearing. I think this is true because I have always wondered why I get passed so much on the highway... turns out I must be going 5 mph too slow!
Thanks 🙏 Yes, the fundamental problem is with the chosen design of speed reading off of the engine sprocket nut. Kawasaki doesn’t think that it’s a big enough problem to fix. On a W650 it’s easy and cheap to solve this by swapping to a 16t sprocket. On a W800 it’s not that simple; as you must swap the rear sprocket to a 38t (or 39t) as well; otherwise, 16/37 is way too tall of a ratio for w800. I’m going to update my description for this video to include my findings after riding on a 16t /39t on W650 for a few more days.
The speedometer on my W800 reads exactly 3% faster than you are actually going. When the speedo says 60mph I'm actually going 58.2mph based on a Garmin GPS. I don't think that is too bad and is better for not getting speeding tickets. I think I will stick with the 15/37 as the motor sounds about right to me at 75mph. (4200rpm). That's 120kph here in Canada and that's reasonable speed for our four lane highways. Faster can get you a ticket. A slightly fatter tire on the back will also correct the speedo if you can find one.
Changing to a 16T front sprocket will change the speedo by almost 7% slower so it would now read 4% slower than you are actually going. Not good when encountering the gentlemen in blue. I haven't met too many of them that have sense of humour. (humor for our US friends)
I did the opposite with my w800, I put on a 14 tooth sprocket for more acceleration. It’s fun but as you mentioned, you end up crushing in 5th at 60km hr. I’m going back to stock and just use a particular gear for longer. Some more compression in the engine would really wake the bike up.
Yeah, for w800 stock ratio 15:37 is best. I even updated the description of this video to mention this.
@@dirtyadventure8481 My W800 with 15/37 stock sprockets will cruise around in fifth gear at 50kph and will pull smoothly to highway speed without shifting. It really makes it nice to not have to continually down shift and up shift if you're not in hurry. Its still accelerates faster than most traffic while leaving it in 5th gear and is only spinning at 4200rpm at 120kph. Very smooth at this speed.
@@Bob-xc2us Yes, but I still think that it’s missing the 6th gear ⚙️. A side note: Even though our bikes can do it, cruising at below 2,500rpm (50kph in 5th) is not recommended, because it puts way too much stress on the piston pins. If you care for engine longevity keep the tachometer needle above 2500rpm in any gear… Even setting your idle too low < 900rpm reduces the oil pressure and harms your valves. Motorcycle engines are not diesel engines and should not be treated like ones. ☝️ Diesels have reinforced pistons and pins, so they are designed for low rpm conditions, motorcycle engines are not.
Our bikes are designed to be used above 4000rpm. Shifting gears above that number is really pleasant and smooth. This bike has a preference; ether keep it 2500-3000 or keep it above 4000rpm.
@@dirtyadventure8481 I understand your view on engine rpm and at wide throttle acceleration I would agree with you but for putting around and lazy acceleration there is no excessive stress being put on the rings, pistons etc. Yes, wide open throttle acceleration in high gear at these low speeds will eventually hurt the engine
Page 74 of the W800 2022 manual recommends shifting from 4th to 5th at 45kph(27mph). It would appear that Kawasaki does not feel that putting around at 30mph in fifth gear is a problem for these bikes. These are long stroke, low rpm and low compression engines. They are not the same as other higher revving motorcycles engines. You operate your motorcycle at the higher rpm and you won't be hurting it. I will operated mine within the parameters recommended by Kawasaki and I won't be hurting it. I do rev it and give a good high rpm run from time to time to keep the cob webs out but I do not operate it under high load at low rpms and I assume that Kawasaki's recommended shift points Are for low load Putting around and lazy acceleration.
Привет ! Для меня это новая информация на будущее. Буду знать. Спасибо ! В том году я снимал крышку ведущий заезды, чистил от грязи. Снимайте больше видео про Kawasaki w650. Это очень полезно.😊❤