You made my day!! Found a wonderful machine on sale site and has the same problem with no motion in the foot rotator. I am so happy you did this video…it would have taken a very long time and I was afraid to begin the project until today . No videos of this anywhere that I could find. 👍🙏❤️
Thank You Baerenson, for the video filming and thorough hard work. (I'll have to watch part 1 & 2 now.) This came up on my YT feed of recommended videos. I've got one of these engineering masterpieces which I'm hopefully going to use to learn a new skill. Thanks for the close up video of the components location. Tony
Hi Baerenson, thank you for your video, it has ready helped me to disassemble my recent Singer 29K15 from a soon to retire Cobbler whose shop is in our village. This was his 'spare' machine which he stored at home and is 120 years old (1903 build). It has been completely stripped barring the top shaft and gear, so a little 'dental' work to do... The machine functioned well when I received it, with no seized or 'frozen' parts to contend with, even though it had been stored in the Cobblers garden shed for 37 years!... All the stripped parts have been cleaned using 'Gunk' first to remove the old grease which has been combined with leather dust and dirt. They have then been further cleaned using my partners Ultra Sonic Cleaner (she's a jeweller). the next stage will be to use a bench polisher to put a high finish on the components before reassembly. I'll be watching your videos again as a reminder together with a hundred or so photographs I've taken. One final decision for me to make is whether I strip back the black paint (as there is very little left) and have it resprayed in British Racing Green colour... I'd be interested on your opinion regarding repainting? BTW it will be a 'keeper' and not be put up for sale when it is completed.
Ultra Sonic Cleaner is a nice to have, I although thought about getting one a couple of times. I think you did a really good job restoring this wonderful machine. In terms of the paint I although think, that if there is just a few spots left, repaint is practical at this point, as you cant save the goldish details. They used a sort of japanning on this machine. I like the original paint but it would be a hassle to accomplish a beautiful surface with an original japanning recipe as you would need a very big oven to even the paint out. At this point its just a question of taste in terms of color and type of paint. Black is classic and elegant but nothing speaks against British Racing Green as it looks very good too. I think you will make or made the right decision.
@@Baerenson Thank you for you thoughts Baerenson, the machines body is booked in for a sand blasting and powder coating in BRG paint before baking in the companies oven. Fingers crossed it will look great afterwards.
Wow! I learned some things. Quite satisfying to watch it sew at the end. I love how it winds a bobbin by moving that giant wheel to the front. Thanks for the detailed camera work. I feel like I have a good idea on how these machines are put together now.
Thank you, Baerenson, for these videos. You taught me a few new things today, as I’m currently working on my Singer from 1896 according to the serial number. Have a great day!
Thank you for this series. I learned so much that I needed to know about the 29K. I have a 29K 70 that I'm about to restore. These vids will help immensely!!
Most parts and screws only make sense in one spot. I'll try and if I really mistaken, I watch the raw clips of my videos how I dissambled the machine. The whole footage is mostly longer than 2 hours. So I have that to count on. Taking picture is also a good idea. I am convinced you can do that too.
Most satisfying part for me is the threading and the lathed wooden handle! 😻 Falls du noch Kapazitäten hast, gebe ich hiermit eine Federmappe in Auftrag. ☺️
Thank you for your videosmi machine when you lower the bar the auja passes very glued towards the plate and then below and focuses as I can correct that detail have if I could with a tip since you have all the hope great master thank you
salut , la même vision qu'à 28:45 mais sur une 29k72 m'aurait bien aidé !!! mais bon voilà au moins j'ai regardé une belle vidéo très intéressante forces et respect
I just bought a 29k57 machine but it doesn't have a front axle, would you have the front axle available for sale? I'm doing the same process as you, I want to completely restore it, including the painting and I'm recording the entire process to post on CZcams, and thank you for the video, it helped a lot
@@chrisn.4136 Thats a good question. I can't garantee, but the gears could always be matching. If the arbors are always the same size is hard to tell because I just owned two Singers 29k. You can always ask seller for measurements and compare. One very important thing is that the main arbor inside the casting should already has a gear. My first 29k didn't. If your arbor don't have one, you can dissamble the arbor to a certain extend, buy a fresh gear and put it on. You can buy almost every part on college-sewing co uk. Part prizes will be much lower than 200$ without considering shipping costs. But be aware that there could be the necessity of drilling, because this parts sometimes need pin holes for fixation. Then you also need at least a drillpress, drills, taps if you want to fix with thread screws. I don't know if this is economically for you.
hey bearenson, i am doing the same job but seem to run into a dead end with the shuttle carrier cogwheel. The gearbox came apart just fine but the last (most left one that attaches to the shuttle carrier ) does not come off. it has a screw trough the axle of the shuttle carrier. how did you get this out? it does not show in your awesome video? regards Niels
Hey Niels, I actually didn't know it too or I might still don`t know, because I didn't took it off. I found out that there should be a channel in the tip of the zylinder/freearm to access the screw. But the problem was that my machine doesn't has this channel in the zylinder to get access to the head of the screw.
@@Baerenson hey there, thank you for replying. now i can help you out. It turns out that the 51 has a drop down gearbox. If you have taken out all the screws on the underside you need to put the shuttle carrier in the right position ( which means so that it can go down with the whole gearbox trough the arm ). If you gently drive the whole gearbox down it will drop out underneath. So make sure the small carrier is in a position that it will go through (down) and then the whole gearbox will drop down and out. Then you will be able to get to that gear connected to the shuttle carrier. PM me for pictures
@@niels5145 I like that, its cool that you are sharing your knowledge with me. I am always curious! Pics would be nice! Do you have instagram? Right now I havent got any Singer 29k left, but I still have some parts, that you might could make use of. For example a walking foot bar and some presser foots.
I have the same problems with the Restoration of my ADLER 30-1, some pins are so stucked that I can not remove them, at just the same place where you had problems.
That's a bummer. It leaves me unsatisfied. I always think about a way to solve this. I was thinking about drilling the pin out, but realize because of the rather good functional condition of the cam wheel it would disproportionately if I would detroy something that still works fine.
@@Baerenson I have still the question if there is thread on that pin or not???? I can not see it on the plans. It has on the one side a head for a 19 mm wrench... but it want move, just a little bit....
@@pluimjr That varies alot. Sometimes owners also modified areas or used unusual method to fix stuff or with older or newer version of the machine manufacture used different fixing. I had a Singer 29k 6 and the wheel in the back inside the housing had a pin and a allen screw. So it's a good indicator for a screw. If you want you could send me pictures via instagram @baerenson or I`ll give you my email adress.
I took grease that is called "Multi Grease". Its lithium based. And as this is a more low speed operating machine its fine. You could take any grease I guess, even high speed grease. Liquid Moly for example sells lithium and graphite based greases. I also used sewing machine oil, its basicly white oil.
Un favor tengo maquina alder pero tiene un detalle la barra de la auja no esta centrada y rompe muchas aujas como se podía corregir ese detalle donde se le puede mover para corregir esa barra que no pege en la placa gracias
Its hard to tell without having the machine in front of me. You might need a new needle bar. If there is too much friction you need to oil or take a part and remove the possible rust
A favor I'm using translator I speak Spanish I have a detail with my alder machine 30-1 the auja bar passes very stuck towards ami and breaks many aujas and when it is further down it is already centered nothing more is at first how you could correct that detail I would thank very much for your videos
Nececitas un "FEED MOTION BELL CRANK LEVER SINGER 29K" y tal vez un "STITCH REGULATOR SINGER 29K". Sobre tiempo esta parte desgasta. La longitud de puntada más corta cuanto mas usar sobre tiempo.
Baerenson Throw that screw driver away watch how many times you slip off screw, get a couple of screwdrivers that fir the screws and you will not damage screw heads
Wow….Now I can properly maintain my 29K 53 Patcher…Thanks very much, Tony
You made my day!! Found a wonderful machine on sale site and has the same problem with no motion in the foot rotator. I am so happy you did this video…it would have taken a very long time and I was afraid to begin the project until today . No videos of this anywhere that I could find. 👍🙏❤️
Thank You Baerenson, for the video filming and thorough hard work. (I'll have to watch part 1 & 2 now.) This came up on my YT feed of recommended videos.
I've got one of these engineering masterpieces which I'm hopefully going to use to learn a new skill. Thanks for the close up video of the components location. Tony
Hi Baerenson, thank you for your video, it has ready helped me to disassemble my recent Singer 29K15 from a soon to retire Cobbler whose shop is in our village. This was his 'spare' machine which he stored at home and is 120 years old (1903 build). It has been completely stripped barring the top shaft and gear, so a little 'dental' work to do... The machine functioned well when I received it, with no seized or 'frozen' parts to contend with, even though it had been stored in the Cobblers garden shed for 37 years!... All the stripped parts have been cleaned using 'Gunk' first to remove the old grease which has been combined with leather dust and dirt. They have then been further cleaned using my partners Ultra Sonic Cleaner (she's a jeweller). the next stage will be to use a bench polisher to put a high finish on the components before reassembly. I'll be watching your videos again as a reminder together with a hundred or so photographs I've taken. One final decision for me to make is whether I strip back the black paint (as there is very little left) and have it resprayed in British Racing Green colour... I'd be interested on your opinion regarding repainting? BTW it will be a 'keeper' and not be put up for sale when it is completed.
Ultra Sonic Cleaner is a nice to have, I although thought about getting one a couple of times. I think you did a really good job restoring this wonderful machine. In terms of the paint I although think, that if there is just a few spots left, repaint is practical at this point, as you cant save the goldish details. They used a sort of japanning on this machine. I like the original paint but it would be a hassle to accomplish a beautiful surface with an original japanning recipe as you would need a very big oven to even the paint out.
At this point its just a question of taste in terms of color and type of paint. Black is classic and elegant but nothing speaks against British Racing Green as it looks very good too. I think you will make or made the right decision.
@@Baerenson Thank you for you thoughts Baerenson, the machines body is booked in for a sand blasting and powder coating in BRG paint before baking in the companies oven. Fingers crossed it will look great afterwards.
Wow! I learned some things. Quite satisfying to watch it sew at the end. I love how it winds a bobbin by moving that giant wheel to the front. Thanks for the detailed camera work. I feel like I have a good idea on how these machines are put together now.
Thank you, Baerenson, for these videos. You taught me a few new things today, as I’m currently working on my Singer from 1896 according to the serial number.
Have a great day!
What model? Mine is a 29K2, but can’t seem to figure where the serial number would be !
Thank you for this series. I learned so much that I needed to know about the 29K. I have a 29K 70 that I'm about to restore. These vids will help immensely!!
Incredible restoration!!i love this machines. Thanks for join us yuor work. La Plata, ARGENTINA
Epic. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for your hard work it helped a lot!!
Precious videos for anyone who has to do the same (like me hopefully soon.) Thank you.
Es un maestro Muy bueno me sirve muchísimo muy agradecido de Mendoza Argentina.
¡Gracias!
Kind of a bull in a china shop approach on this series, but still good to see it and glad it worked out well.
Beautiful job.
That’s awesome 👏
Mis respetos para usted es un gran maestro saludos desde cuitzeo michoacan México
Thanks for the video. Very cool machine.
You are amazing , man !! How on earth can you remember where everything goes back precisely ???
Most parts and screws only make sense in one spot. I'll try and if I really mistaken, I watch the raw clips of my videos how I dissambled the machine. The whole footage is mostly longer than 2 hours. So I have that to count on. Taking picture is also a good idea. I am convinced you can do that too.
Most satisfying part for me is the threading and the lathed wooden handle! 😻 Falls du noch Kapazitäten hast, gebe ich hiermit eine Federmappe in Auftrag. ☺️
Eauch leauch leauch!
The upper thread loops a little when the material is punctured, the thread stretcher can be adjusted.
Thank you for your videosmi machine when you lower the bar the auja passes very glued towards the plate and then below and focuses as I can correct that detail have if I could with a tip since you have all the hope great master thank you
Bravissimo
salut , la même vision qu'à 28:45 mais sur une 29k72 m'aurait bien aidé !!! mais bon voilà au moins j'ai regardé une belle vidéo très intéressante
forces et respect
I just bought a 29k57 machine but it doesn't have a front axle, would you have the front axle available for sale?
I'm doing the same process as you, I want to completely restore it, including the painting and I'm recording the entire process to post on CZcams, and thank you for the video, it helped a lot
Can you send me an picture of your machine to @baerenson at instagram? I dont know exactly what part you mean.
Cuando una maquina de estas pierde el tiempo de dónde se cuadra gracias 😃☺️
parece quedel volante tienes que checar con otra maquiba cuando la auja esta arriba o abajo te puedes giar
You should have taken the burrs of those screw heads, also there are some places where you should have used grease instead of oil. But nice machine :)
He needs to use proper screwdrivers
Thanks for the video Baerenson now I can restore my 29K 71 but don't know where to source parts can you recommend anything thanks again from Manila
Please tell me, The handwheel you are using in the front is the same one for the side? I have a 29K58 and the side handwheel looks smaller.
Yes it its. Fits on the arbor on front and on the side.
@@Baerenson I don't have an arbor in front. I found one on eBay but the guy wants $200 for it! Are all the 29K front arbors and gears the same?
@@chrisn.4136 Thats a good question. I can't garantee, but the gears could always be matching. If the arbors are always the same size is hard to tell because I just owned two Singers 29k. You can always ask seller for measurements and compare. One very important thing is that the main arbor inside the casting should already has a gear. My first 29k didn't. If your arbor don't have one, you can dissamble the arbor to a certain extend, buy a fresh gear and put it on. You can buy almost every part on college-sewing co uk. Part prizes will be much lower than 200$ without considering shipping costs. But be aware that there could be the necessity of drilling, because this parts sometimes need pin holes for fixation.
Then you also need at least a drillpress, drills, taps if you want to fix with thread screws. I don't know if this is economically for you.
hey bearenson, i am doing the same job but seem to run into a dead end with the shuttle carrier cogwheel. The gearbox came apart just fine but the last (most left one that attaches to the shuttle carrier ) does not come off. it has a screw trough the axle of the shuttle carrier. how did you get this out? it does not show in your awesome video? regards Niels
Hey Niels,
I actually didn't know it too or I might still don`t know, because I didn't took it off.
I found out that there should be a channel in the tip of the zylinder/freearm to access the screw.
But the problem was that my machine doesn't has this channel in the zylinder to get access to the head of the screw.
@@Baerenson hey there, thank you for replying. now i can help you out. It turns out that the 51 has a drop down gearbox. If you have taken out all the screws on the underside you need to put the shuttle carrier in the right position ( which means so that it can go down with the whole gearbox trough the arm ). If you gently drive the whole gearbox down it will drop out underneath. So make sure the small carrier is in a position that it will go through (down) and then the whole gearbox will drop down and out. Then you will be able to get to that gear connected to the shuttle carrier.
PM me for pictures
if you have any machines to sell let me know , i need spare parts for mine!
@@niels5145 I like that, its cool that you are sharing your knowledge with me. I am always curious! Pics would be nice! Do you have instagram?
Right now I havent got any Singer 29k left, but I still have some parts, that you might could make use of. For example a walking foot bar and some presser foots.
@@Baerenson hey there, no sorry i dont have insta.
Cuánto cuesta está máquina soy de Colombia gracias
I have the same problems with the Restoration of my ADLER 30-1, some pins are so stucked that I can not remove them, at just the same place where you had problems.
That's a bummer. It leaves me unsatisfied. I always think about a way to solve this. I was thinking about drilling the pin out, but realize because of the rather good functional condition of the cam wheel it would disproportionately if I would detroy something that still works fine.
@@Baerenson I have still the question if there is thread on that pin or not????
I can not see it on the plans. It has on the one side a head for a 19 mm wrench... but it want move, just a little bit....
@@pluimjr That varies alot. Sometimes owners also modified areas or used unusual method to fix stuff or with older or newer version of the machine manufacture used different fixing. I had a Singer 29k 6 and the wheel in the back inside the housing had a pin and a allen screw. So it's a good indicator for a screw. If you want you could send me pictures via instagram @baerenson or I`ll give you my email adress.
Mejustan estos video por que tengo una maquina 29k72 y qui erodarle mantenimieto y des sarme comoes.
Parabéns!!!!!
Very good video ,I learn a lot. What kind oil & grease you are use it ?
Thanks very much
Very very good video👍😄👏👏
I took grease that is called "Multi Grease". Its lithium based. And as this is a more low speed operating machine its fine. You could take any grease I guess, even high speed grease. Liquid Moly for example sells lithium and graphite based greases. I also used sewing machine oil, its basicly white oil.
Un favor tengo maquina alder pero tiene un detalle la barra de la auja no esta centrada y rompe muchas aujas como se podía corregir ese detalle donde se le puede mover para corregir esa barra que no pege en la placa gracias
Its hard to tell without having the machine in front of me. You might need a new needle bar. If there is too much friction you need to oil or take a part and remove the possible rust
Cómo se ajusta la barra de la ahuja por qué la mía no está centrada pega muy pegado ala placa y rompe las ahujas una solución gracias
Może być skrzywiona ,może być odwrotnie założona .
Przyczyn może być wiele .
Naprawiam maszyny szewskie ,rymarskie ,wszystkie.
What type of Grease should I use on mine ???
I think multi grease or multipurpose grease should be fine for certain parts. Also sewing machine oil is necesarry.
way to tell us how to tune and time it
Como faço pra obter uma maquina dessa moro no Brasil me manda o nome do site pra contato
A favor I'm using translator I speak Spanish I have a detail with my alder machine 30-1 the auja bar passes very stuck towards ami and breaks many aujas and when it is further down it is already centered nothing more is at first how you could correct that detail I would thank very much for your videos
Ola
Pero no dan puntada larga que es importante aveces se necesita puntada larga
Nececitas un "FEED MOTION BELL CRANK LEVER SINGER 29K" y tal vez un "STITCH REGULATOR SINGER 29K". Sobre tiempo esta parte desgasta. La longitud de puntada más corta cuanto mas usar sobre tiempo.
Bende ayakabıcı yim benim makinememin cavanozu donuyor neden yorumuzu bekliyorum teşekürler
Baerenson Throw that screw driver away watch how many times you slip off screw, get a couple of screwdrivers that fir the screws and you will not damage screw heads
Alguien que venda una como esta maquina favor de mandarme una foto
Baerenson
Bær 🐾
@@MaxiWinter 🍯🍯🍯
Bääääääääääär
U look like u could do that with ur eyes closed
Рукожоп! Но старается..