Still the best IDI return rebuild video out there! Watching it again cause I just scored a 87 6.9 C6 F250 extended cab zero rust 68K miles! My old 89 still trucking on but body rotting out. 89K miles 5 speed 7.3
Thanks for the video. Seems like IDI owners often wind up becoming fairly good at working on them because professional mechanics often don't want to touch them or don't have staff that have ever worked on one! I have a bus with a 7.3 IDI and have done all the repairs myself thus far and Videos liek this one are very helpful.
I used petroleum jelly on the o-rings to install them to the injectors and to install the caps. It worked great. No leaks. The new kit had all the proper plastic parts to replace. I kept the old ones in a zip lock bag for spares.
cubey petroleum jelly will deteriorate those o rings at an accelerated rate a lot of people do it but the old Ford guy that use STP oil treatment small return line caps hasn't leaked since I installed them correctly On a second note to install an O-ring that it comes in contact with water is gritless hand cleaner that's what the caterpillar guys use
Great video. Napa also carrys the kits. Seem to be made better then the last one i got from orieleys. I found a sweet diagram online that showes the pump and injectors and what order to install them.
I actually had to reuse my old injector caps after finding out the kit I got had a mix of oversized caps. I put them on initially but they started leaking a few days later. When I put a caliper on them they measured almost .010" bigger than my new ones. Definitely something us IDI owners need to be aware of when buying new return line kits.
I just had this happen, got a kit with the 3/16" lines, and some of the caps had no contact tension with the o-rings. Had to reuse the old caps. Confirmed with a socket that was snug on the old ones, sloppy loose on the new ones.
W the off road diesel, if you can get it to fill your tank do it, it’s cheaper & will save you lots of $ over time, diesel is expensive nowadays, if you do find it just throw in a quart or two of oil, will completely change the color of the dye. Doesn’t take much to do it, but they can’t tell the difference between black diesel & dyed.
What I did for these is deleted the fuel housing return line cuz I was loosing fuel there & just put a delete plug in its place. Then I got a brass T & had the return from the pump split off to both sides of the engine. But yeah, mine got 211k on it, got a new pump 30k ago. All my injectors are stock, same with the plastic caps I just haven’t messed with them that much, but I might spend the $ & get a brass cap or the fuel rail from R&D. Haven’t decided what I’m gonna do quite yet.
Looking at possibly buying a 85 6.9 idi. Very clean truck but my only doubt is that he says there is a knock at higher rpms. Should I give up on it or could this be an easy fix?
Mike i have a question if put and electric fuel pump on my truck instead of the mechanical pump would make it easier when bleeding the system are changing fuel filters?
thanks for the vid I'm having problems with my idi i believe i need new injectors i can't get her to start crank no start plus my tanks and low on fuel and the front tank sucks air under half a tank
I noticed that i have a leaky injector, it seems to leak on the bottom thru the threads in the head. I have a new return line repair kit laying around.. do you think it's just the copper washer leaking?
Iaslo have a 86 idi truck that don't have a front clip ,I thank I have all the parts but having trouble puting it together do you have any idea to put the front end on..
I just found some fuel leaking on mine. Dripping off of the lift pump. Is there a spot above the lift pump that can cause it to drop down the pump or this is likely the pump itself? I also have fuel under the truck dripping from the flywheel inspection plate if there is a spot that can cause it to pool and spill over and drop from there... Just thought I'd ask here first before I start going through a lot of hunting.
The return lines caps specifically. The o-rings crack can get brittle over time and leak to the lowest point you might have a pool of diesel in your valley pan
Alright bro I figure the problem out someone long ago decided they were going to shave wires to do test I'm guessing So what I kept seeing as tachometer failure had nothing to do with the tachometer the wires next to the fender wall that were coming from the throttle position sensor were touching together As a result of this direct short it was killing the powertrain control module it would completely dropped the tack because the tachometer runs through that module before it gets too the instrument cluster I deduced it wasn't the powertrain control module failure because your speedometer functions were normal and run through two separate parts of the module Up to the point that I found the wires bear and Trace them back to the throttle position sensor you couldn't have convinced me otherwise I thought for damn sure it was the tachometer wires that was bad I tested that RPM sending unit everyone should be tested thinking that that was the guilty culprit I'm glad I didn't go purchase one for $160 I've got a ZF 5-speed it's a high ratio though you know anything about them the book says that diesel came with the low ratio transmission I don't guess it really matters much it's going in there as soon as I can find time to keep that thing still long enough to do it it's not welding truck and I don't have a backup
Would it be possible to service just one injector? I have one in the furthest back on the passenger side that has a slight sweat” type of leak. Would like to fix it.
I could really use your help, I have a 1994 7.3 IDI factory turbo and the original fuel return system just dead heads at the back of the block on the passenger side. The kit that I bought doesn’t have the dead head or ‘’single barb’’ plastic fitting. It came with four 90s and six straight through fittings. My turbo setup is very different from this one in the video though, so how should I go about replacing my return lines if they never connected at the rear of the engine to begin with? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated!
the oem turbo 3 way and single barbs are discontinued I always plug the caps myself to get it to work. Russrepair.com might have a nos turbo kit in stock
Mike Green so I should just block it off where the factory fitting ends instead of trying to route it back to the left hand side to tie it into the return line that goes to the tank? I just wanted to make sure that this wasn’t a recall or something from ford that should’ve been done a long time ago, I’ve just never seen another video of a system like mine so I wanted to double check with someone who has a little more experience with these engines than I do... and I really appreciate the quick response!!
@@andrewbass3245 you have to have a return to the tank and the injection pump but you don't need to have one from the filter besides that you can route it however you want as long as you got return for each injector
Wanda Kirby coolant in oil or oil and coolant? oil in the coolant is normally a oil cooler seal bad; coolant in oil is normally a head gasket or worse. these engines also can sound like the running fine with a blown head gasket
Kenny Jack the leak at the feed line probably certainly won't help but if it's not getting to the injectors that means it's not getting through your injection pump. You want throttle open while cranking to injectors
How can I test the check valve in the filter housing? The two caps nearest the filter are leaking and I appear to have an air intrusion issue. I'm planning to replace the return lines this week but I wonder if I have this other issue as well.
Hello I was wondering if you remember when you pulled your injectors out where the lower stem wet? Or are they supposed to be dry. I believe I had to injectors malfunction and they are bone dry,, I believe that they overheating and malfunctioned blowing white smoke out tail pipe now.....
Yea I've pulled dry ones before sometimes they have quite the carbon build up too like the crush washer lost its seal. Either way I replace em all when I do em I don't bother trying to just do one or 2 etc
@@groundtogreen1140 Thanks for the reply.. I am still a little bit in the dark the crush washer is supposed to make a seal. So that means above that should be dry. That means this Stem should not be wet?,,, I had a runaway diesel, but I got it shut down, but now blowing white smoke. Hopefully no other damage
@@rickmavictime756 carbon isn't supposed to get past the washer but sometimes I've had em dry and wet pulling em outta core engines. I would assume dry but the only real accurate way to measure injector life is to do a pop test. As for an idi I wouldn't be super concerned about a runaway. It can happen but is very very very rare.
@@groundtogreen1140 They appreciate that. Unable to do pop test and do not know anyone with one. For now I'm taking a visual inspection to make sure that any push rod in and unsure of the valves yet taken my time got a little intimidated by it running away, but that is fixed, but on my mind every time I turn the key
@@rickmavictime756 if your really concerned keep a fire extinguisher in the truck not a dry media one. If it did run away you can blast the intake with it and it'll starve the truck of air to run
I just bought another 6.9 it’s an 87 with messed up wiring think you could give me any help/advice for rewiring parts to make it run and work correctly? Thank you
Mike Grn I bought the truck for 800 bucks I think if I can get it going decent I could drive it or at least use it on the farm I was just curious if you knew Much about the wiring all the damaged stuff appears to be on the passenger side by the fender not sure what it all goes too thought maybe you could help you’re one of the most knowledgeable people on CZcams about these engines
Anthony Scott Dec 6, 2017 I have a 1985 F350 with a 6.9 diesel crew cab dually two wheel drive It seems that a lot of Ford trucks in those years would short their wiring and/or the fuse box. I have ripped out my entire dash to see what wires went where. I had a short on the driver's side under the dash near the side panel that melted some of the wire together. I went to a local junk yard and cut out a section of a harness and patched it in. (it's a real bitch trying to dismantle the dash to get to the wiring and even harder to do in a junk yard without the proper tools) That worked for a while but then some systems stopped working like running tail lights went out yet I still had a brake light. Lot of other stuff stopped working too. The truck sat for a couple of years because I didn't have time to fix it. Eventually I just bypassed the entire starting system with a starter button, a 12 volt wire to the fuel solenoid with a toggle switch to have fuel (you kill the engine by turning off the solenoid!) and a separate glow plug wired switch. I ran some add on off road head lights and some Harbor Freight magnetic red lights for running tail lights for now. Oddly enough I still have a horn! but nothing else electrical. Anyhow, I was going to replace the entire 1401 harness (see the factory manual for harness numbers) but couldn't find a decent complete harness in a junk yard. Still, I scavenged one complete harness (engine compartment through the firewall to the under dash) and used it to unwrap to see where the wires went. That helped a lot although some connectors were different but still obvious what they were, plus I now had back up parts and wire of the proper colors. My Chilton book didn't help a bit with wiring diagrams. I found a great site called BISHKO.COM (www.autobooksbishko.com/) that had reprints of the original factory wiring diagrams for $25 plus shipping of $7.50 It is the wiring diagram you MUST have to understand the wiring. IT'S GOLD! AUTO BOOKS BISHKO SALES 1(800) 544=3312 -Auto Books Bishko autobooks@msn.com Good luck fixing your truck. I still haven't finished mine. Still have to do complete rear brakes, injectors, return lines and glow plugs and it's freezing now in North Idaho/Washington CEDRICWARD.2010@YAHOO.COM
@@groundtogreen1140 kvcc? I'm in vicksburg bout to do the fuel return likes on my 7.3 so I watched the video and I was like I've heard this exact vice before.
@@jkuri89 yep I still need to take a couple more from valley that were stopped due to covid. Feel free to email me if you want to talk outside of yt meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
@@phillipjackson3014 i have the same issue, after it dies i can watch the fuel level drop from my filter housing down to the number 1 injector since I replaced that with clear hose
do you have a Facebook to where I could p.m. you at MIKE!! I don't know much about idi motors and need a lot of questions for you to answer if you could... or a phone #??
I have a turbo idi and one of my injectors keeps leaking at the return fitting. I have replaced the fitting and.the o rings now 3 times. Guess I'm about to replace all the injectors next. Anyone got any ideas about that?
@@elijahthebomb Thanks for the replay! It's funny because I just finally decided to buy new injectors. I figure since one is doing this and I have 250k miles on this engine I'll just do an 8 pack of injectors. After that hopefully it should go another 250k before I need to put some new heads and turbo on it.
Still the best IDI return rebuild video out there! Watching it again cause I just scored a 87 6.9 C6 F250 extended cab zero rust 68K miles! My old 89 still trucking on but body rotting out. 89K miles 5 speed 7.3
Stay away from these engines. You'll develope some weird love affection for the '86 6.9idi Harvester.
Andrea Fox your not wrong 😂
I got an 86 f250 6.9 just hit 100k
I got a 92 7.3 that no matter what I keep spending money 🤦♂️
I got one has 385 k 93 non turbo
Think parts will be around for a while longer?
Thanks for the video. Seems like IDI owners often wind up becoming fairly good at working on them because professional mechanics often don't want to touch them or don't have staff that have ever worked on one! I have a bus with a 7.3 IDI and have done all the repairs myself thus far and Videos liek this one are very helpful.
Thanks for taking the time to do another informative video Mike..
Thanks for explaining in details Mike. Good video and comprehensive.
I used petroleum jelly on the o-rings to install them to the injectors and to install the caps. It worked great. No leaks. The new kit had all the proper plastic parts to replace. I kept the old ones in a zip lock bag for spares.
cubey petroleum jelly will deteriorate those o rings at an accelerated rate a lot of people do it but the old Ford guy that use STP oil treatment small return line caps hasn't leaked since I installed them correctly
On a second note to install an O-ring that it comes in contact with water is gritless hand cleaner that's what the caterpillar guys use
Yo don't ever put pressure on the tips of the injectors like at 8:44 They run tight tolerances and this could move the pin out of line
Great video. Napa also carrys the kits. Seem to be made better then the last one i got from orieleys. I found a sweet diagram online that showes the pump and injectors and what order to install them.
I actually had to reuse my old injector caps after finding out the kit I got had a mix of oversized caps. I put them on initially but they started leaking a few days later. When I put a caliper on them they measured almost .010" bigger than my new ones. Definitely something us IDI owners need to be aware of when buying new return line kits.
Yea quality has gone downhill with some manufacturers
@@groundtogreen1140 Correction the new fuel return caps were oversized compared to my old fuel return caps*
I just had this happen, got a kit with the 3/16" lines, and some of the caps had no contact tension with the o-rings. Had to reuse the old caps. Confirmed with a socket that was snug on the old ones, sloppy loose on the new ones.
just pulled one from thicket been sitting 10 years give or take fired right up
Great video, thank you!
W the off road diesel, if you can get it to fill your tank do it, it’s cheaper & will save you lots of $ over time, diesel is expensive nowadays, if you do find it just throw in a quart or two of oil, will completely change the color of the dye. Doesn’t take much to do it, but they can’t tell the difference between black diesel & dyed.
Super helpful. Thank you!
Nice video Mike! I’m surprised you’re not going with the billet fuel rails from R&D IDI Performance...well it is a winter beater!
I had em before I don't really care to try n install around the turbocharger otherwise decent product
Mike Grn any interest in selling the billet return rails that you aren’t using?
Thanks for the Vid
What I did for these is deleted the fuel housing return line cuz I was loosing fuel there & just put a delete plug in its place. Then I got a brass T & had the return from the pump split off to both sides of the engine.
But yeah, mine got 211k on it, got a new pump 30k ago. All my injectors are stock, same with the plastic caps I just haven’t messed with them that much, but I might spend the $ & get a brass cap or the fuel rail from R&D. Haven’t decided what I’m gonna do quite yet.
Looking at possibly buying a 85 6.9 idi. Very clean truck but my only doubt is that he says there is a knock at higher rpms. Should I give up on it or could this be an easy fix?
Thanks for sharing! But How do you know injectors are bad enough they HAVE TO be replaced?
Mike i have a question if put and electric fuel pump on my truck instead of the mechanical pump would make it easier when bleeding the system are changing fuel filters?
could you show how you run the fuel likes I have a 83 6.9 that i have the same turbo as you but it is a hard starter
Mike does these injector come apart to be cleaned.
Learned a lot from watching your videos I bought my first idi having some issues r u by chance from Washington state ?
nope michigan
@@groundtogreen1140 how far from G.R.
Is that a factory turbo setup? Awesome video man!
Jon King no an earlier ats 088 turbo kit
thanks for the vid I'm having problems with my idi i believe i need new injectors i can't get her to start crank no start plus my tanks and low on fuel and the front tank sucks air under half a tank
Me Wolf air alone wil cause a hard or no start. As for under half a tank I would say it's your pick up tube in the tank
Hey I have a 6.9 idi diesel and it won't stay started and when I hold the gas pedal down it won't go past 1000 rpms any ideas what that could be?
I noticed that i have a leaky injector, it seems to leak on the bottom thru the threads in the head. I have a new return line repair kit laying around.. do you think it's just the copper washer leaking?
Is this ben shapiro
Iaslo have a 86 idi truck that don't have a front clip ,I thank I have all the parts but having trouble puting it together do you have any idea to put the front end on..
I just found some fuel leaking on mine. Dripping off of the lift pump. Is there a spot above the lift pump that can cause it to drop down the pump or this is likely the pump itself? I also have fuel under the truck dripping from the flywheel inspection plate if there is a spot that can cause it to pool and spill over and drop from there... Just thought I'd ask here first before I start going through a lot of hunting.
The return lines caps specifically. The o-rings crack can get brittle over time and leak to the lowest point you might have a pool of diesel in your valley pan
Alright bro I figure the problem out someone long ago decided they were going to shave wires to do test I'm guessing
So what I kept seeing as tachometer failure had nothing to do with the tachometer the wires next to the fender wall that were coming from the throttle position sensor were touching together
As a result of this direct short it was killing the powertrain control module it would completely dropped the tack because the tachometer runs through that module before it gets too the instrument cluster
I deduced it wasn't the powertrain control module failure because your speedometer functions were normal and run through two separate parts of the module
Up to the point that I found the wires bear and Trace them back to the throttle position sensor you couldn't have convinced me otherwise I thought for damn sure it was the tachometer wires that was bad
I tested that RPM sending unit everyone should be tested thinking that that was the guilty culprit I'm glad I didn't go purchase one for $160
I've got a ZF 5-speed it's a high ratio though you know anything about them the book says that diesel came with the low ratio transmission
I don't guess it really matters much it's going in there as soon as I can find time to keep that thing still long enough to do it it's not welding truck and I don't have a backup
Is the pump for an automatic and standard transmission the same (6.9)? Thanks.
yes with the exception of the bolt on vrv for a c6 or the tps actuator on an e40d
Would it be possible to service just one injector? I have one in the furthest back on the passenger side that has a slight sweat” type of leak. Would like to fix it.
I don't think it will throw any thing off but you may just need a new oring if it is leaking
Can you use late style injectors in an early 7.3 idi I'm new to this engine
yes pop pressures and the varying spray patterns did little to affect performance. But yes later years interchange
Hey Mike I have a 91 f250 7.3 idi. Does it matter if I purchase the early or late style caps on my return line kit? The ones on it are the late style?
Yes it does matter as the return line sizes differ. You can convert a system to either or but it's important to match up with your current system
@@groundtogreen1140 okay thanks. If I have any issues do you have an email I could contact you personally? Thanks
@@Powerhousegarage406 meanmikegreen@ yahoo.com
I could really use your help, I have a 1994 7.3 IDI factory turbo and the original fuel return system just dead heads at the back of the block on the passenger side. The kit that I bought doesn’t have the dead head or ‘’single barb’’ plastic fitting. It came with four 90s and six straight through fittings. My turbo setup is very different from this one in the video though, so how should I go about replacing my return lines if they never connected at the rear of the engine to begin with? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated!
the oem turbo 3 way and single barbs are discontinued I always plug the caps myself to get it to work. Russrepair.com might have a nos turbo kit in stock
Mike Green so I should just block it off where the factory fitting ends instead of trying to route it back to the left hand side to tie it into the return line that goes to the tank? I just wanted to make sure that this wasn’t a recall or something from ford that should’ve been done a long time ago, I’ve just never seen another video of a system like mine so I wanted to double check with someone who has a little more experience with these engines than I do...
and I really appreciate the quick response!!
@@andrewbass3245 you have to have a return to the tank and the injection pump but you don't need to have one from the filter besides that you can route it however you want as long as you got return for each injector
I have a 7.3 IDI, told it was getting coolant in the oil, truck runs great, any ideas of where it is coming from
Wanda Kirby coolant in oil or oil and coolant? oil in the coolant is normally a oil cooler seal bad; coolant in oil is normally a head gasket or worse. these engines also can sound like the running fine with a blown head gasket
Got a 6.9 idi getting fuel to filter housing but not to injectors noticed a leak at feed line to pump could that be the issue
Kenny Jack the leak at the feed line probably certainly won't help but if it's not getting to the injectors that means it's not getting through your injection pump. You want throttle open while cranking to injectors
How can I test the check valve in the filter housing? The two caps nearest the filter are leaking and I appear to have an air intrusion issue. I'm planning to replace the return lines this week but I wonder if I have this other issue as well.
Not even really worth testing it I just plugged the sucker
@@groundtogreen1140 What did you do with the other end? Just replace the cap on the #1 injector with one that has only one port?
@@sonictech1000 melted it shut with a lightet and pliers
@@groundtogreen1140 That works, thanks.
I have a 92 7.3 IDI that is smoking like crazy. Thick white smoke. But I just had the head gasket and injectors replaced. What could be the cause?
Jcool2018 pump might need to be timed and or serviced/replaced
Air getting in the fuel lines.
Hello I was wondering if you remember when you pulled your injectors out where the lower stem wet? Or are they supposed to be dry. I believe I had to injectors malfunction and they are bone dry,, I believe that they overheating and malfunctioned blowing white smoke out tail pipe now.....
Yea I've pulled dry ones before sometimes they have quite the carbon build up too like the crush washer lost its seal. Either way I replace em all when I do em I don't bother trying to just do one or 2 etc
@@groundtogreen1140 Thanks for the reply.. I am still a little bit in the dark the crush washer is supposed to make a seal. So that means above that should be dry. That means this Stem should not be wet?,,, I had a runaway diesel, but I got it shut down, but now blowing white smoke. Hopefully no other damage
@@rickmavictime756 carbon isn't supposed to get past the washer but sometimes I've had em dry and wet pulling em outta core engines. I would assume dry but the only real accurate way to measure injector life is to do a pop test. As for an idi I wouldn't be super concerned about a runaway. It can happen but is very very very rare.
@@groundtogreen1140 They appreciate that. Unable to do pop test and do not know anyone with one. For now I'm taking a visual inspection to make sure that any push rod in and unsure of the valves yet taken my time got a little intimidated by it running away, but that is fixed, but on my mind every time I turn the key
@@rickmavictime756 if your really concerned keep a fire extinguisher in the truck not a dry media one. If it did run away you can blast the intake with it and it'll starve the truck of air to run
Hey mike just picked up a 87 6.9 with the sidewinder turbo kit how do I check the air filter
I thought depending on the sidewinder kit you either have a big boxy cover or a short air ram intake you have to remove
Its the small intake
@@Truck3r96 thought it unbolts to check it havent had that kit in person
When you block off the return line at the filter housing, where does that line go, back to tank? Or does it get plugged?
It normally goes to one of the injector line caps and I either melt that port shut or throw a bolt in a piece of hose and clamp it
@@groundtogreen1140 ok. So you don’t have a return to tank? You just just have it returned to injection pump?
@@hankimus10I still have a tank return just not the extra from filter to the caps
@@groundtogreen1140 so there’s another one? Is that from the filter housing?
I just bought another 6.9 it’s an 87 with messed up wiring think you could give me any help/advice for rewiring parts to make it run and work correctly? Thank you
Anthony Scott not a wiring expert by any means I normally have a friend help me
Mike Grn I bought the truck for 800 bucks I think if I can get it going decent I could drive it or at least use it on the farm I was just curious if you knew Much about the wiring all the damaged stuff appears to be on the passenger side by the fender not sure what it all goes too thought maybe you could help you’re one of the most knowledgeable people on CZcams about these engines
Anthony Scott might be able to help email me at meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
Mike Grn I email you
Anthony Scott
Dec 6, 2017
I have a 1985 F350 with a 6.9 diesel crew cab dually two wheel drive
It seems that a lot of Ford trucks in those years would short their wiring and/or the fuse box.
I have ripped out my entire dash to see what wires went where.
I had a short on the driver's side under the dash near the side panel that melted some of the wire together. I went to a local junk yard and cut out a section of a harness and patched it in. (it's a real bitch trying to dismantle the dash to get to the wiring and even harder to do in a junk yard without the proper tools)
That worked for a while but then some systems stopped working like running tail lights went out yet I still had a brake light. Lot of other stuff stopped working too.
The truck sat for a couple of years because I didn't have time to fix it.
Eventually I just bypassed the entire starting system with a starter button, a 12 volt wire to the fuel solenoid with a toggle switch to have fuel (you kill the engine by turning off the solenoid!) and a separate glow plug wired switch.
I ran some add on off road head lights and some Harbor Freight magnetic red lights for running tail lights for now. Oddly enough I still have a horn! but nothing else electrical.
Anyhow, I was going to replace the entire 1401 harness (see the factory manual for harness numbers) but couldn't find a decent complete harness in a junk yard.
Still, I scavenged one complete harness (engine compartment through the firewall to the under dash) and used it to unwrap to see where the wires went.
That helped a lot although some connectors were different but still obvious what they were, plus I now had back up parts and wire of the proper colors.
My Chilton book didn't help a bit with wiring diagrams.
I found a great site called BISHKO.COM (www.autobooksbishko.com/) that had reprints of the original factory wiring diagrams for $25 plus shipping of $7.50
It is the wiring diagram you MUST have to understand the wiring.
IT'S GOLD!
AUTO BOOKS BISHKO SALES
1(800) 544=3312
-Auto Books Bishko
autobooks@msn.com
Good luck fixing your truck. I still haven't finished mine. Still have to do complete rear brakes, injectors, return lines and glow plugs and it's freezing now in North Idaho/Washington
CEDRICWARD.2010@YAHOO.COM
Do I need different injectors if mine is turboed?
According to Accurate Diesel...No..
What brand do you recommend for this 7.3 idi non turbo?
R+D idi performance hands down has the best injectors on the market
@@groundtogreen1140 I ended up going with Russ repair because he responded to my inquiry first. Hopefully they are as good.
What kinda of o rings do you use?
viton ones from a hydraulic supply shop
shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_19794.jpg
Are these the same ones?
Bro are you from Michigan? I went to welding school with a guy that sounds identically to you 😂
Yep that was more than likely me lol.
@@groundtogreen1140 kvcc? I'm in vicksburg bout to do the fuel return likes on my 7.3 so I watched the video and I was like I've heard this exact vice before.
@@jkuri89 yep I still need to take a couple more from valley that were stopped due to covid. Feel free to email me if you want to talk outside of yt meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
is there any way the return line can introduce air into the fuel system ?????
Yes one of the most common ways it back feeds in air into the system and if connected to the filter in will pull it in when running
I have replaced all the lines from the tank to the fuel pump.but still sucking air into the system.
@@groundtogreen1140 I can get it started and it runs for about 30 seconds then dies.im not finding much help online for a 1989 7.3 idi
@@phillipjackson3014 i have the same issue, after it dies i can watch the fuel level drop from my filter housing down to the number 1 injector since I replaced that with clear hose
Mike whats your email got an interesting truck an need your opinion
do you have a Facebook to where I could p.m. you at MIKE!! I don't know much about idi motors and need a lot of questions for you to answer if you could... or a phone #??
I have a turbo idi and one of my injectors keeps leaking at the return fitting. I have replaced the fitting and.the o rings now 3 times. Guess I'm about to replace all the injectors next. Anyone got any ideas about that?
It’s the injector. It leaks from the inside. More of a seep. If you replaced the return lines then it’s the injectors.
@@elijahthebomb Thanks for the replay! It's funny because I just finally decided to buy new injectors. I figure since one is doing this and I have 250k miles on this engine I'll just do an 8 pack of injectors. After that hopefully it should go another 250k before I need to put some new heads and turbo on it.
Why buy the kit if you throw away half of it?
Sometimes if I am in a pinch but got a buddy who supplies me a better kit
bro you touched the tip on the table, isn't that like 100% chance of ruining it
Lol so I've been told already in the thread.
Why doesn’t anyone make these out of metal. They’d make a killing.
What the caps? They do ; R&D idi performance sells rails
L