Symptoms: No heat or defrost, A/C, blower fan and air movement all appear to be working correctly, with exception that the temperature control does not control the temperature of the A/C. A/C air output is always very cold air. Heater and defroster air output are un-heated air (cold air when the A/C is operating).. Hot engine coolant is going into and out of the firewall (to the interior). Blower fan controls correctly control fan speed. Duct controls correctly control air flow/which ducts are open/closed. Under the dash: No movement of the lever arm that is connected to the blend air door actuator and no clicking noise from under the dash when I rotate the temperature control. Suspected cause: improper function of the blend air door actuator Resolution: Disconnect chassis battery for several minutes to reset the blend air door actuator. This restored proper function of the blend air door actuator and of the heater control to allow the heater and the defroster to function correctly. When I disconnected the battery, I tightened the connections to the battery posts and I thoroughly cleaned the floor and the seat bases.)
It amazes me they put a Town and Country power and drivetrain in the 2500’s. I’ve heard of people going through 5 transmissions under 100k miles. You make a transmission video yet?
I put a lot of thought into that. First off, the logic that it's "just a minivan transmission" is flawed. It's a machine, it doesn't know or care where it came from or where it's going. It either works or it doesnt. More importantly, what goes bad on the transmissions isn't about the gears or the beef or the size of the components - it's all in the shifting. That's true for most transmissions - the gears don't fail, it's the rest of it that fails. Lastly and most importantly, I'm CONVINCED that 90% of the transmission failures reports are NOT FAILURES. What they are is misdiagnosis caused by greedy dealers who DELIGHT in selling you a $7000 transmission. What fails is something called the solenoid pack, which is a $300 assembly that contains all of the valving, solenoids, and electronics that the trans uses. Takes about 2 hours to replace, trans staying in the vehicle. In my 1.9 million miles on Promasters, I've NEVER failed a trans, but I have failed 2 solenoid packs. Videos on this topic will be coming, I assure you.
To replace the heating core, do you need to remove all front dash? I saw a video 2 parts here. The guy disconnected all the front dash.. took outside to take out old bad heating core.. This is a big job that looks 😮
My Ram’s blend door arm is possibly stuck on one side and I’m not getting any heat. Several months ago it moved itself back and then it went back to cold. It’s been several months and I haven’t had heat sense. Is there any way to access the blend door under the hood? The space inside behind the steering wheel and driver’s seat is just too tight for me to try to access it from there. Please let me know. Thank you.
Too tight for me too! The only real way to do it is to partically remove the driver's seat. Two bolts into the floor at the front, and it will tip back and move out of the way such that you can lie on the floor and get to the gas pedal area. When you do, there's a cover held on with two phillips screws, and removing that will allow you to remove the actuator (two screws, pretty easy). We've had bad luck with the Autozone replacements - I prefer a dealer one. If you don't want to mess with it, what I sometimes do is simply pull the arm off the gear, and wire tie the arm in the up position. Then unplug the actuator. This puts the heat on full blast. When spring comes, I reconnect it or just put the arm down to the cold position. Hillbilly fix, but it works.
The AC in my Promaster is simply not very cold at all. I can hear the AC kick in when I turn it on but the air comes out barely cool. Someone suggested blend door actuator but it does become hot when I switch temp dial to red so questioning that. Any thoughts/suggestions…? Thanks!
Most likely it’s just low on refrigerant, but dont just start dumping cans into it - too much will damage it and repairs will be multiple thousands of dollars. Take it to a shop. It wont be blend door related - when they fail it wont move at all, so yours is likely ok.
@@promastersonly1419 thank you. Much appreciated. Is it common for refrigerator to naturally diminish over time or does that generally imply a leak in need of repair too.
@@TedEvanSeymour Not very common, but not unheard of. The leak will usually be at the fill ports on the firewall. But it's certainly possible that the condenser has gotten a rock chip big enough to make it leak. BEFORE you throw any parts at it, a shop can add some UV dye into the refrigerant (in fact, ask them to when you get it filled) and a black light will reveal where it's leaking. Luckily, the evaporator that lives in the dash rarely goes bad which is good because it's a major bit of surgery to change it.
I've seen videos on other cars where these actuators were not timed right from factory and people figured out the right position and moved it with 12V before assembly. Maybe cycling it with scanner before assembly would work.
Seems like ALL of the cheap parts store actuators are mistimed. I've learned some tricks. On the blend actuator (controls how hot or cold) I've learned to plug it in before I install it, put the heat on full, and let it do it's thing till it stops, THEN install it. The same principal applies to the fresh air door, but the mode door (where the air comes out) is a multi stage affair and that won't work well. The factory actuators have an arrow, which points to a missing tooth on the drive. That's it's neutral position. The cheap actuators omit this. I have a $1600 scan tool, and it REFUSES to correctly run the actuator relearn proceedure. Which, of course, I didn't find out till after I bought it. This may be a case where springing for the Mopar actuator is worth it just to avoid all this bullshit.
Which one of these door actuators would control airflow to the dash vents? I have a very low airflow issue from dash vents. New oem fan and resistor, spinning correct way, new cabin air filter and issue happens on both recirc and draw through. i can hear a ton of airflow but it sounds like some sort obstruction. Airbox has never been removed 60k miles.
The middle one, called the mode actuator, controls dash floor or windshield. Make 100% sure you fan is right be disconnecting it and jumper wire it in backwards. The mode door is the hardest of the 3 to change. Passenger seat out, glovebox out. Use a factory actuator, the aftermarket ones sometimes simply dont work right.
What ive done so far: Blend motor near the steering wheel works fine for hot and cold. Air flow is the same Mode door cycles through all modes and i can see the small wheels working on top and bottom moving the flap inside. It changes to each of the functions but flow is very low. Not sure if the indexing is correct or not, it looks like the dealer removed the actuator and soldered the connection back together. Recirc door opens and closes . Blower motor is new rotating correct clockwise Tested it in a different van and gets full airflow. Resistor tested in another vehicle also. Dash vent airflow does not feel the same across . Middle vents feel less than outers. Im lost at this point other than assuming one of these door broke inside the assembly blocking airflow. Is this an issue similar to this one with the wheel indexing on this video or did something break inside causing an obstruction. Looking for a way to rig it to only come out of the dash.
@@kc5504 I would think you would hear it clicking if the doors were internally jammed. But the move would be to take the actuator out and move the door shaft by hand. That would at least reveal if the doors were bad. If you can get to move to or through where you want it, you can unplug the actuator and it will stay in that spot forever.
The system is common from side to side, meaning it should work equally. If I had to guess, the duct that takes air from the heater box to the vent has fallen off. Either that, or some shit or mice have gotten in. It's not bad taking some of the dash apart to at least look at it. Taking the radio out will show you most of it (poke wires into the 4 holes, use a trim tool to pry it forward and it should slide out.
Nope. That’s a bad actuator on the mode door. It’s in the middle of the dash toward the passenger side. You’ll want to take the pass seat out to get to it.
i have heat coming out all vents in whatever position i ask for ..my problem is i turn the heat on in the morning 20 min into the drive barely any heat comes out of any vent ..fan speed works and i can hear the blower going but it sound like something is blocking it..if i shut the truck off for for 30min/1hr i works like normal again..so frustrating..any help would be appreciated thank you
Clarification: does a normal amount of air come out of the vents? Or is it lacking airflow AND air temp? And has the fan been changed since last winter?
The fan works in all speeds blows hard through any vent position but 20 min into a drive air flow stops coming out of the vents but u can hear the fan still blowing hard but nothing comes out
@@baller367 curious. The first step would be obvious - check the coolant level and burp the system. There is a thumbscrew on one of the heater hoses where the enter the firewall under the hood. Open that till solid coolant comes out. If that ok, I’d be looking at the blend door. An easy test would be to set it to hot, and when its working an it’s fully hot, unplug the blend actuator. It’s a contortion but you can get to it with no tools above the gas pedal. This will force it to stay full hot position. If that solves the problem, you know it’s the actuator. If it doesnt, you can plug the actuator back in and forget about the actuator.
Have mercy you ever meet an actual Hillbilly one day and find out using their culture as a negative derogatory is not acceptable behavior to them - I travel the USA and they are better people than 99% of the rest of this Narcissistic Nation - and they are the absolute Kings of fa/fo …js
Symptoms: No heat or defrost, A/C, blower fan and air movement all appear to be working correctly, with exception that the temperature control does not control the temperature of the A/C. A/C air output is always very cold air. Heater and defroster air output are un-heated air (cold air when the A/C is operating).. Hot engine coolant is going into and out of the firewall (to the interior). Blower fan controls correctly control fan speed. Duct controls correctly control air flow/which ducts are open/closed. Under the dash: No movement of the lever arm that is connected to the blend air door actuator and no clicking noise from under the dash when I rotate the temperature control.
Suspected cause: improper function of the blend air door actuator
Resolution: Disconnect chassis battery for several minutes to reset the blend air door actuator. This restored proper function of the blend air door actuator and of the heater control to allow the heater and the defroster to function correctly. When I disconnected the battery, I tightened the connections to the battery posts and I thoroughly cleaned the floor and the seat bases.)
Live long my friend...
It amazes me they put a Town and Country power and drivetrain in the 2500’s. I’ve heard of people going through 5 transmissions under 100k miles. You make a transmission video yet?
I put a lot of thought into that. First off, the logic that it's "just a minivan transmission" is flawed. It's a machine, it doesn't know or care where it came from or where it's going. It either works or it doesnt. More importantly, what goes bad on the transmissions isn't about the gears or the beef or the size of the components - it's all in the shifting. That's true for most transmissions - the gears don't fail, it's the rest of it that fails. Lastly and most importantly, I'm CONVINCED that 90% of the transmission failures reports are NOT FAILURES. What they are is misdiagnosis caused by greedy dealers who DELIGHT in selling you a $7000 transmission. What fails is something called the solenoid pack, which is a $300 assembly that contains all of the valving, solenoids, and electronics that the trans uses. Takes about 2 hours to replace, trans staying in the vehicle. In my 1.9 million miles on Promasters, I've NEVER failed a trans, but I have failed 2 solenoid packs. Videos on this topic will be coming, I assure you.
To replace the heating core, do you need to remove all front dash? I saw a video 2 parts here. The guy disconnected all the front dash.. took outside to take out old bad heating core.. This is a big job that looks 😮
Yes, almost everything comes out to do the heater core. It ain’t pretty!
My Ram’s blend door arm is possibly stuck on one side and I’m not getting any heat. Several months ago it moved itself back and then it went back to cold. It’s been several months and I haven’t had heat sense. Is there any way to access the blend door under the hood?
The space inside behind the steering wheel and driver’s seat is just too tight for me to try to access it from there. Please let me know. Thank you.
Too tight for me too! The only real way to do it is to partically remove the driver's seat. Two bolts into the floor at the front, and it will tip back and move out of the way such that you can lie on the floor and get to the gas pedal area. When you do, there's a cover held on with two phillips screws, and removing that will allow you to remove the actuator (two screws, pretty easy). We've had bad luck with the Autozone replacements - I prefer a dealer one. If you don't want to mess with it, what I sometimes do is simply pull the arm off the gear, and wire tie the arm in the up position. Then unplug the actuator. This puts the heat on full blast. When spring comes, I reconnect it or just put the arm down to the cold position. Hillbilly fix, but it works.
The AC in my Promaster is simply not very cold at all. I can hear the AC kick in when I turn it on but the air comes out barely cool. Someone suggested blend door actuator but it does become hot when I switch temp dial to red so questioning that. Any thoughts/suggestions…? Thanks!
Most likely it’s just low on refrigerant, but dont just start dumping cans into it - too much will damage it and repairs will be multiple thousands of dollars. Take it to a shop. It wont be blend door related - when they fail it wont move at all, so yours is likely ok.
@@promastersonly1419 thank you. Much appreciated. Is it common for refrigerator to naturally diminish over time or does that generally imply a leak in need of repair too.
@@TedEvanSeymour Not very common, but not unheard of. The leak will usually be at the fill ports on the firewall. But it's certainly possible that the condenser has gotten a rock chip big enough to make it leak. BEFORE you throw any parts at it, a shop can add some UV dye into the refrigerant (in fact, ask them to when you get it filled) and a black light will reveal where it's leaking. Luckily, the evaporator that lives in the dash rarely goes bad which is good because it's a major bit of surgery to change it.
I've seen videos on other cars where these actuators were not timed right from factory and people figured out the right position and moved it with 12V before assembly. Maybe cycling it with scanner before assembly would work.
Seems like ALL of the cheap parts store actuators are mistimed. I've learned some tricks. On the blend actuator (controls how hot or cold) I've learned to plug it in before I install it, put the heat on full, and let it do it's thing till it stops, THEN install it. The same principal applies to the fresh air door, but the mode door (where the air comes out) is a multi stage affair and that won't work well. The factory actuators have an arrow, which points to a missing tooth on the drive. That's it's neutral position. The cheap actuators omit this. I have a $1600 scan tool, and it REFUSES to correctly run the actuator relearn proceedure. Which, of course, I didn't find out till after I bought it. This may be a case where springing for the Mopar actuator is worth it just to avoid all this bullshit.
Which one of these door actuators would control airflow to the dash vents? I have a very low airflow issue from dash vents. New oem fan and resistor, spinning correct way, new cabin air filter and issue happens on both recirc and draw through. i can hear a ton of airflow but it sounds like some sort obstruction. Airbox has never been removed 60k miles.
The middle one, called the mode actuator, controls dash floor or windshield. Make 100% sure you fan is right be disconnecting it and jumper wire it in backwards. The mode door is the hardest of the 3 to change. Passenger seat out, glovebox out. Use a factory actuator, the aftermarket ones sometimes simply dont work right.
Awesome. Thank you so much. Going to give it a try and see what happens
What ive done so far:
Blend motor near the steering wheel works fine for hot and cold. Air flow is the same
Mode door cycles through all modes and i can see the small wheels working on top and bottom moving the flap inside. It changes to each of the functions but flow is very low. Not sure if the indexing is correct or not, it looks like the dealer removed the actuator and soldered the connection back together.
Recirc door opens and closes .
Blower motor is new rotating correct clockwise Tested it in a different van and gets full airflow. Resistor tested in another vehicle also.
Dash vent airflow does not feel the same across . Middle vents feel less than outers.
Im lost at this point other than assuming one of these door broke inside the assembly blocking airflow.
Is this an issue similar to this one with the wheel indexing on this video or did something break inside causing an obstruction. Looking for a way to rig it to only come out of the dash.
@@kc5504 I would think you would hear it clicking if the doors were internally jammed. But the move would be to take the actuator out and move the door shaft by hand. That would at least reveal if the doors were bad.
If you can get to move to or through where you want it, you can unplug the actuator and it will stay in that spot forever.
I have heat only coming out on the driver side. Mode door works. What should look at?
The system is common from side to side, meaning it should work equally. If I had to guess, the duct that takes air from the heater box to the vent has fallen off. Either that, or some shit or mice have gotten in. It's not bad taking some of the dash apart to at least look at it. Taking the radio out will show you most of it (poke wires into the 4 holes, use a trim tool to pry it forward and it should slide out.
@@promastersonly1419 thanks
My air only comes out of the defrost no matter where the know is. Is this a different issue?
Nope. That’s a bad actuator on the mode door. It’s in the middle of the dash toward the passenger side. You’ll want to take the pass seat out to get to it.
i have heat coming out all vents in whatever position i ask for ..my problem is i turn the heat on in the morning 20 min into the drive barely any heat comes out of any vent ..fan speed works and i can hear the blower going but it sound like something is blocking it..if i shut the truck off for for 30min/1hr i works like normal again..so frustrating..any help would be appreciated thank you
Clarification: does a normal amount of air come out of the vents? Or is it lacking airflow AND air temp? And has the fan been changed since last winter?
The fan works in all speeds blows hard through any vent position but 20 min into a drive air flow stops coming out of the vents but u can hear the fan still blowing hard but nothing comes out
@@baller367 curious. The first step would be obvious - check the coolant level and burp the system. There is a thumbscrew on one of the heater hoses where the enter the firewall under the hood. Open that till solid coolant comes out.
If that ok, I’d be looking at the blend door. An easy test would be to set it to hot, and when its working an it’s fully hot, unplug the blend actuator. It’s a contortion but you can get to it with no tools above the gas pedal. This will force it to stay full hot position. If that solves the problem, you know it’s the actuator. If it doesnt, you can plug the actuator back in and forget about the actuator.
Dryer vents, what, 😮your supposed to be the van expert
I’ll have a video on it soon. You’ll see.
I posted A video on my channel about this. All you have to do is smack it with a screwdriver and it will start working
Couldn't find it on your channel. My guess is you got lucky, because usually when they fail they physically strip the gears inside. But a good tip.
Have mercy you ever meet an actual Hillbilly one day and find out using their culture as a negative derogatory is not acceptable behavior to them
- I travel the USA and they are better people than 99% of the rest of this Narcissistic Nation
- and they are the absolute Kings of fa/fo …js